Why gloxinia does not bloom at home. Why does gloxinia have a stem elongated or how to form a compact bush

And gloxinia is no exception to this rule. Lush rosette of large, vibrant and attractive flowers, the characteristic synningia may well compete with a real bouquet.

Ripening of buds

Buds are set only as a result of proper cultivation. Plant buds appear immediately after the number of pairs of leaves on it reaches three or four. The number of buds themselves depends on the conditions in which the synningia was kept (temperature, light and humidity), as well as on the age and mass of the tuber.

Flowering period and its features

Duration is about 5 months and usually lasts from April to August (taking into account re-flowering). This factor is also influenced by the variety of this houseplant.

Flowers

Sinningia flowers outwardly resemble bells... Thanks to this, the plant received its popular name - gloxinia(if translated from German - "bell").

Range of colors, inherent in the flowers of gloxinia, it is distinguished by an amazing variety. The main colors are white, pink, red and purple. Depending on the variety, there are double and non-double, multi-color, with frill-edged edges of the variety of flowers.

The fact of the presence of scent synningia flowers... There are varieties that have no smell at all, and there are those that simply smell. The smell of flowers in such varieties of gloxinia is pronounced and delicate, it may slightly resemble the scent of jasmine flowers.

Care during the budding period

During the development of buds and flowering, synningia needs the right:

the plant should receive enough light at this time.
Gloxinia should not be placed in direct sunlight (to avoid burns)
the soil in the pot should not be allowed to dry out. You need to water it regularly, and even experienced florists recommend placing the plant on a tray with soft and warm water (for about 10 minutes).
Do not allow moisture to get on the flowers and leaves (this can cause them to rot)
it is advisable to feed once every 7 days using fertilizers for flowering plants.

Post-flowering care

Flowering time can be significantly extended subject to proper care... Many varieties and species of synningia have a tendency to re-bloom, especially if the first was early. Usually it is not as lush and plentiful, and the flowers are much smaller.

After flowering, gloxinia should be carefully examined for a growing point on the stem. If there is one, in a month the plant will give new flowers.

Pruning

Sometimes, to stimulate re-flowering, it can need cropping sinningia. In this case, the ground part is cut off (leaves and stem; 2-4 lower leaves can not be removed) and a shoot about 2 cm long is left.Soon after this, the second growth of gloxinia occurs: lateral shoots appear.

Not at all necessary leave all side shoots, one or two of the strongest will be enough - the rest are cut off so as not to weaken the plant. A month later, new buds begin to develop on them.

During the budding period, the synningia must be fed with fertilizer.

Why does not it bloom and how to deal with it?

Often, flower growers notice that their favorite is not in a hurry to please them with rapid flowering. The reason for this phenomenon is most often the illiterate care of the plant. Incorrect content can be judged if:

the plant is overfed with nitrogen-based fertilizers. Nitrogen acts as a stimulant for the rapid growth of greenery and at the same time an obstacle to flowering. The best feeding for gloxinia is phosphorus-potassium fertilizer;
lacks lighting. Sinningia is a light-loving plant, and she just needs lighting to lay new buds and beautifully shaped flowers.
If there is a lack of natural light of gloxinia, additional artificial lighting can be organized.
the plant does not fit the size of the pot where it grows. An ideal pot for sinningia is low, wide and small, with a diameter of about 9-15 cm. In a large and deep one, it will spend energy on growing a tuber, to the detriment of flowering (the dormant period of gloxinia and the preservation of a tuber until spring is described).
there is no transplant. The transplant should be carried out annually;
the soil in which synningia grows is scarce. Gloxinia needs fertile soil containing humus, coniferous and leafy soil, sand, perlite (or hydrogel) and peat. You can make a planting mixture for a plant yourself, or buy a ready-made one.
Before planting the plant, the soil must be calcined for about half an hour in the oven to destroy pathogens.

Bloom- a wonderful sight that can give a sea of aesthetic pleasure. In order for it to be lush, abundant and long, it is required to provide this unpretentious beauty with competent care.

Photo

Below you can see the photo:

Growing Gloxinia: 18 Problems and Solutions Gloxinia is a very popular houseplant. But, like any plant, gloxinia has its own secrets, troubles, in a word, there are problems when growing. To avoid them, it is necessary at the first signs of their appearance to try to correct the conditions for keeping gloxinia. 1. Gloxinia did not wake up after wintering Gloxinia tubers should be kept cool and dark. If the gloxinia tuber is adult and healthy, then it is worth casting it just a little, as shoots begin to grow on it. However, in practice, it does not always work out the way it should be. The very first and simplest ambulance when awakening gloxinia from hibernation is to wrap the gloxinia pot in a plastic bag to create high humidity for the emergence of shoots. It is quite possible that the wintering was too dry and the tuber was dry. In order not to face such a problem, pots with gloxinia tubers in winter sometimes need to be slightly watered. Or you can put gloxinia tubers in plastic bags, pouring some soil or wet moss there. Close the bags or tie tightly. The bag will retain constant humidity, and due to the fact that the bag is transparent, you will have the opportunity to observe the gloxinia tubers in winter. At the first appearance of leaves, you can immediately plant gloxinia in a pot. If the gloxinia did not wake up after wintering, then too young gloxinia was sent for the winter, which did not have time to form a tuber. If the gloxinia tuber was purchased in a store and after last year's bloom did not wake up from hibernation, it is possible that the tuber was sold of very low quality. Many growers complain about this particular problem. Outwardly, the tubers look quite well, but in reality it may turn out that they are already old, or infected with some kind of infection or pests, or simply overfed with various growth stimulants and fertilizers. The strength of such tubers is only enough to bloom for one season. Dig up the tuber, examine it: if it is severely wrinkled, then most likely it is gone. Break or cut it: the tuber on the cut should be slightly yellowish or pinkish. If so, then dry the sections, sprinkle with crushed coal, you can treat it with ordinary brilliant green or fucorcin (raspberry liquid, a strong antiseptic, has an antifungal effect, sold in pharmacies). You can treat the tuber with epin or zircon to increase the vitality of the tuber, to stimulate it to form shoots. If the gloxinia tuber is brown on the cut, then most likely it has disappeared. If only one edge is brown, cut off all the rot, process the tuber as described above and plant in new soil. If you want the purchased tubers to be able to endure wintering without any problems, then immediately after purchasing gloxinia tubers at home, process all planting material in a solution of potassium permanganate or phytosporin. This treatment aims to keep the gloxinia tubers from rotting. The next step is the treatment of gloxinia tubers with actellik or phytoverm. These preparations will help get rid of thrips, spider mites and other pests of indoor plants. If you purchased gloxinia in a pot, change the soil and process the tuber. The land sold in pots with plants is very poor. Perhaps the tuber is already old, and just died. Gloxinia live for three to four years. If you greatly value this particular variety of gloxinia, try to root the stalk or leaf in advance. 2. Gloxinia did not have time to form a tuber If gloxinia is grown from seeds and the seeds are planted late, then in Gloxinia it may not have time to form a tuber. Gloxinia blooms only at six to seven months of age, when it has six to seven pairs of leaves. In this case, young gloxinia does not need to be sent for wintering, because gloxinia can be completely lost. In winter, try to maintain adequate humidity and light so that the gloxinia does not stretch out. To understand whether gloxinia will overwinter or not, count the leaves: if there are only four or five pairs of them, then such a small gloxinia cannot be sent for the winter. Gloxinia will bud when it has grown at least six pairs of leaves. Also, the tuber does not have time to form when growing gloxinia from a leaf or cutting, especially if the cutting is too long and deeply buried. Do not over-water. Due to waterlogging, gloxinia may also not have time to form a tuber. Gloxinia has too small tuber, it may not survive wintering 3. Gloxinia shoots are very elongated Gloxinia shoots are strongly stretched after wintering, when the room is too warm and insufficient lighting. Add lighting, periodic spraying of air, wet cleaning will help to reduce the temperature in the room. Strong stretching of the shoots can also occur with insufficient lighting, plus overfeeding with nitrogen fertilizers. Add light, do not feed with nitrogen fertilizers. Gloxinia can be pulled out due to the varietal peculiarity, some gloxinia varieties are prone to pulling shoots. It is advisable to cut off the elongated shoot. The tuber will give a new shoot. The pruned shoot can be rooted, and it will also have time to bloom. If the elongated shoot is left, then it is likely to fall and take root. He will receive food from his newly formed roots, and in addition, draw food from the tuber. A new shoot can grow on the tuber, but it will be weak, it will not bloom, and the tuber will become weakened and may not overwinter. 4. Gloxinia grows very poorly, its flowers curl If the gloxinia is too slow to grow, or the flowers of the gloxinia curl, the plant may have been overwintering too cold, or in the room where the gloxinia grows, the temperature is too low, or drafts. Perhaps the land is very poor, there is not enough food. Conduct pest control. They can also inhibit the growth of gloxinia. 5. Gloxinia leaves turn yellow Gloxinia leaves turn yellow when over-watered. If the plant is flooded, then it is immediately noticeable by the leaves. It may happen that the tuber began to rot. Remove the gloxinia tuber urgently, inspect for rot, treat with phytosporin or other drugs, replace the ground. Gloxinia leaves can turn yellow from a lack of nitrogen. In general, fertilizing with nitrogenous fertilizers is recommended only at the beginning of the growing season, when the stem begins to grow. Subsequently, top dressing is best done with fertilizers in which the content of phosphorus and potassium is much higher than the content of nitrogen. Remember that overfeeding with nitrogen can cause the gloxinia tuber to rot. Chlorosis of gloxinia leaves. Too hard water can cause chlorosis. Water for irrigation of gloxinia should be used settled, warm. Soften it with a drop of vinegar or lemon juice. Chlorosis can be caused by low soil acidity or high ash content. Change the soil. 6. Gloxinia leaves discolored If the gloxinia leaves have begun to discolor, then there is magnesium starvation. In this case, liquid dressings will help, in which all trace elements have already been added. 7. Gloxinia leaves are stained Gloxinia leaves may appear stained from too bright light. Apply gloxinia, otherwise there will be a sunburn. Gloxinia leaf spots can appear from over-watering, or if you water with too cold water. Gloxinia leaf spot can cause drafts. Small spots on the leaves of gloxinia may indicate the presence of pests on the plant. We need insecticide treatments. In addition, gloxinia can be affected by various viral diseases, for example, tomato ring spot virus. 8. Gloxinia leaves curling Gloxinia leaves curling is possible if the room is too dry and hot. However, even with too high humidity, excessive waterlogging, the leaves of gloxinia also curl, bend, short pedicels form, or the formation of deformed flowers is observed. Adjust gloxinia watering. Treat gloxinia with actellik or phytoverm from spider mites. Rolling gloxinia leaves can be from an overdose of potash fertilizers. 9. Gloxinia leaves are reddened Gloxinia leaves begin to redden when there is a lack of phosphorus. Fasting with phosphorus causes the gloxinia to stop blooming altogether. To correct this problem, feed the gloxinia with superphosphate or another fertilizer that contains more phosphorus and potassium than nitrogen. For example, diammofosk fertilizer or liquid top dressing containing a set of additional microelements is suitable for this. 10. Gloxinia's lower leaves dry. Gloxinia's lower leaves dry when there is insufficient air humidity, or vice versa, overflow. Possibly an infection. Treat with phytosporin or another fungicide. 11. Gloxinia does not bloom Gloxinia does not bloom due to overfeeding with nitrogen fertilizers. Nitrogen only stimulates the growth of greenery, but slows down flowering. Insufficient lighting, low ambient temperatures, low humidity, or insufficient watering can affect flowering delays. Irregular or too short wintering can also affect flowering, as a result of which the tuber did not have time to prepare for the next season. For gloxinia to bloom well next season, it needs a rest period of four months. For gloxinia to bloom fully, it just needs good lighting. Gloxinia love light! From the moment they wake up, immediately place the pots with gloxinia tubers in places where there is a lot of light, or arrange additional lighting, otherwise the buds may not start at all, and if they do, then there may be few of them, or the flowers may not fully form, turn out to be empty , or not end to open up. The size of the pot also plays an important role. For growing gloxinia, it is better to choose a small, rather low and wide pot than a deep one. In a large pot, gloxinia will grow tuber for a long time to the detriment of flowering. For an adult gloxinia tuber, the pot should be about 9-12 cm in diameter. And after active growth begins in gloxinia, it is necessary to fertilize with phosphorus-potassium fertilizers. In addition to the pot, gloxinia needs a transplant and new fertile soil every year. You can make an earthen mixture for gloxinia yourself: humus, coniferous earth, leafy earth, sand, perlite or hydrogel, peat. But before use, it must be calcined for pests and pathogenic microbes. Sprinkle the soil on a tray and bake it in the oven for 20-30 minutes. If it is not possible to make your own earthen mixture, then you will have to use the store, but fertilize more often. 12. Gloxinia leaf petioles rot, buds rot Gloxinia leaves petioles rot, buds rot due to excessive waterlogging, soil pH is too acidic, and an excessive amount of nitrogen-containing fertilizers. Change soil, adjust watering. In order not to overdo it with nitrogen fertilizers, use only complex fertilizers, which, in addition to nitrogen, include phosphorus and potassium. Additionally, carry out two or three treatments with phytosporin, Maxim or another fungicide to keep the gloxinia tuber from decay. 13. In gloxinia, the buds turn black and die. If the buds of gloxinia turn black and die off, then most likely it was too cold wintering, the soil is too poor and insufficient nutrition, strong overflow. Usually, problems with flowering are solved by fertilizing with phosphorus fertilizers and additional lighting. Treat with fungicides. If the problem is not fixed, then most likely there are problems with the tuber: it began to disappear. 14. In gloxinia, a barren flower is formed. At the beginning, on the gloxinia, as usual, buds are laid, sepals open, and inside, instead of a bud, there is a green pea, a barren flower. After a while, the peduncle on which this underdeveloped bud grew turns brown. The gloxinia tuber may have been stored too cold. Cut off this peduncle and wait for the next peduncles. After a while, see how new buds open, perhaps everything will return to normal without additional intervention. Try a few more sprays of epin to help the plant release stress and help it to form normal buds. 15. Gloxinia does not fully open buds Gloxinia does not fully open buds, and then turn brown and become soft. This is quite possible if there are too many buds on the gloxinia, and it does not have enough feeding, it is simply not able to overpower the flowering. In this way, gloxinia itself regulates its flowering. This can be a varietal trait. It is possible that she bloomed too early or late, when the daylight hours are short and there is simply not enough lighting for her. Usually, this is observed during the off-season. Under-opening of the buds can be the result of an attack by a spider mite or thrips. Apply insecticide treatments. 16. Gloxinia buds dry Gloxinia buds dry due to too dry air, high air temperature. If the summers are very hot, spray with gloxinia. Hang a damp sheet over the window. Try a phosphate-potassium fertilizer. 17. Gloxinia's leaves began to wither. If the leaves of gloxinia began to wither in the fall, this means that the gloxinia is preparing for wintering. Reduce watering to a minimum. Wait for the gloxinia to completely wither, cut off the upper part of the shoots, leave only a small stump and send the gloxinia tuber for the winter. It can be in the same pot, or in a plastic bag, as described in problem 1. If the leaves of gloxinia began to wither during the growing season, then, most likely, there are problems with the tuber. From too much waterlogging, he rotted. Dig up urgently, cut off the affected leaves, treat the tuber with fungicides and plant in fresh soil. 18. How to get Gloxinia to bloom again If your Gloxinia has faded and no longer forms peduncles, and you want to make Gloxinia bloom again, cut it back to 2-3 pairs of leaves. In 1.5-2 months, the gloxinia will grow a new stem, and your favorite gloxinia will bloom again. Re-flowering can be stimulated by fertilizing with phosphorus-potassium fertilizers.

A small stocky bush with velvet elongated leaves blooms of amazing beauty flowers. The colors are monochromatic or two-colored, with a wide edging along the edge of the petal, or with a contrasting openwork ornament. Flowers come in a wide variety of shades from white to almost black... The flower shape of an indoor flower resembles a bell, directed upwards, with a bent edge of the petal. According to the structure of the rhizome, gloxinia belongs to tuberous plants.

Gloxinia, or in other words, synningia - American by birth. In our country, it grows only at home, or in greenhouses. Belongs to the hersenium family.

Flowering process

Most indoor flowers bloom in the summer, there are varieties blooming in the fall, and some are able to remain beautiful all year round. In order to understand if there is a problem at all, let's figure out what time and how long the gloxinia blooms.

When?

Under ideal conditions, gloxinia can bloom as early as March., however, most often at this time, buds are still forming. Flowering continues until September-October.

How many?

Gloxinia blooms in 2 stages for about 3 months each. That is, the first flowering takes place from March to June, the second from July to October. Between flowering, the plant is pruned, and it again grows flower stalks and forms buds.

One of the methods of reproduction is rooting a leaf or its fragment (you can learn more about planting gloxinia from a leaf). For in order for a young plant to give flowers, it first needs to grow a tuber.

Therefore, if the leaf was rooted in the spring, then only by autumn can it bloom. There won't be many flowers, and besides, they won't last long. However, if you leave the tuber in a pot for the winter, then until next year it will grow in mass, which will provide the plant with strength for full flowering.

How to make bloom at home?

Why does the plant not bloom, but produces buds, which then dry up and what to do? There are several reasons for this problem. It is necessary to eliminate them and create the right conditions for the plant.

Consider the most effective solutions:

How to feed gloxinia for abundant flowering? Any complex, preferably in liquid form, mineral fertilizer, which is intended for flowering plants. Do it 3 times a month, starting two weeks after spring planting. Young seedlings begin to feed when new shoots with leaves appear. Feed until autumn. If fertilizer is not on hand, pour the ash solution over the flower.
Give more light! Gloxinia is very fond of sunlight, she needs 12-14 hours of daylight hours in order to release flower stalks.
In the spring, it is necessary to supplement the plant. For this, phyto-lamps, or fluorescent lamps with suitable characteristics are used.
Put her in a suitable pot! If the gloxinia is in a container that is too spacious, then it will not bloom. A wide and low pot of small volume is required (for more information on what size a pot is needed for the healthy development of gloxinia, see). The soil in the pot should be slightly larger in volume than the tuber itself (and you can learn more about how to choose the best soil for gloxinia).
Be careful with nitrogen! If your gloxinia has thick leaves and dark green stems. There are a lot of leaves, that is, perhaps there is a nitrogen overfeeding. Either there is too much humus in the soil, or the wrong fertilizer was chosen with a high percentage of nitrogen. Or both. You can fix it only by transplanting the flower into poor soil with a high content of peat (you can read more about transplanting gloxinia). Feed only the correct fertilizers and in accordance with the instructions.
Is the girl warm to you? If the room where the gloxinia pot stands is cool, then flowering will not occur. Content is required at a temperature of 20 to 25 degrees. This also includes the presence of drafts and a cold window sill, from which the soil in the pot has a low temperature.
The radiator is the enemy of plants! During the heating season, plants may suffer from too low humidity, hot dry air rises from the radiators directly to the plants on the windowsill. Build a protective screen, or create moist air around the flower. You can put a tray with water, or spray water from a spray bottle into the air. Only on a flower in any case do not fall!
Have a rest, or not? Gloxinia should rest for 4 months in winter. The tuber is dug up and stored in a cool dark place, in a bag with slightly damp sand. If the rest did not last long, there were not the right conditions, then the plant will not be able to fully bloom. In the case of young plants that have not yet grown a tuber, it is left in a pot. But they are also removed to a dark place with a temperature of 12-15 degrees. It is important not to allow the soil to dry out during this period. Making the plant bloom in the event of an inadequate rest is unlikely to work.

Care

We talked about many points related to leaving, but there are still some important things left.

It is during flowering that gloxinia requires frequent and abundant watering. It is necessary to water as soon as the surface of the soil dries out.... It is better to do this with the pallet method, because this way the gloxinia will take only the right amount. In addition, you cannot get on the plant itself. Otherwise, it can rot.

Another plus for watering through the pallet is the even distribution of moisture. In summer, when we water from above, moisture may never reach the very bottom, partially evaporating from the surface. Water should be only settled and soft, room temperature or plus 3 degrees.

You can learn more about how to water and feed gloxinia at home.

Can the leaves be trimmed?

If you need a leaf for propagation, it is quite possible to cut it off (you can learn more about gloxinia leaf propagation and plant care in). Also, it is not scary to cut off withered and damaged leaves. However, do not seriously thin out the bush, from such stress, gloxinia can shed flowers and stop flowering.

Leaves are pruned when the first wave of flowering has ended... Not all are removed, but most, as well as all peduncles. After a while, stepchildren will appear, 2-3 of the strongest are left, the rest is cut out. Full pruning of leaves and stems is carried out in late autumn, before laying the tuber for storage.

You can learn more about the features of the difficult care and growing of gloxinia at home.

Causes of the problem

There are not only the reasons discussed above, but also diseases and pests that prevent the plant from blooming.

Briefly about why it does not bloom:

Bad light.
Lack of nutrients.
Unsuitable pot.
Incorrect containment temperature.
Excess nitrogen in the soil.
Dry air.
Lack of a full-fledged rest period (for more details on when to remove gloxinia at rest, you can find out in).

Most often, indoor plants are affected by fungal infections that inhibit development and can completely destroy the plant. It looks like wilting with various spots and rotten areas.

You can try to save the plant:

Remove affected areas.
Carefully remove the plant from the soil.
Examine the root.
Cut off rotten areas on the tuber with a sharp knife and process with crushed coal.
Spray the plant together with the tuber with fungicides.
Plant in clean soil.

If the root collar has rotted, then the growth point that is still available will be the only salvation. If there is none, there is no point in saving gloxinia.

Attention! The cause of the disease is improper care and conditions of detention. This is especially true for watering and air temperature.

You can find out more about diseases of gloxinia, and in more detail about what kind of leaf diseases are in a plant, you can read in.

Pests

Gloxinia can infect any indoor insect pests: spider mites, thrips, aphids and others. If insects are found in the ground or on a plant, it is necessary to carry out an insecticide treatment. Be sure to check the rest of the plants in the house to avoid re-infestation.

If thin dry patches appear on the leaves, carefully examine the back of the leaf, perhaps even with a magnifying glass. Some pests are microscopic in size.

As a result of their vital activity, insects harm the flower: they suck out the juice, depriving the plant of some of the nutrients, and also cause mechanical damage. Therefore, a plant affected by insect pests may not bloom.

Conclusion

There are many legends on the Internet about how to make a plant bloom: they suggest pouring cold or hot water, meat broth and other miraculous remedies. But do not come up with difficulties, you just need to take care of your favorite plant according to all the rules. Then yours will bloom all the time allotted to them!

If you find an error, please select a piece of text and press Ctrl + Enter.

Gloxinia is an amazing plant that growers successfully grow at home. It attracts those around it with incredibly beautiful flowering that conquered many hearts, pleasing to the eye throughout the summer. But so that your pet never disappoints you, you should take proper care of him.

Gloxinia in indoor conditions: will bloom or not

Gloxinia flowers, similar in shape to bells, instantly captivate those around them.

Because of this similarity, Gloxinia got its name: Gloken in translation from German means "bells".

Their color is characterized by a variety of colors: there are pink, red, burgundy and purple bells, but most often white. In addition, they can be both double and non-double; multi-colored, as well as with a colored border around the edge. The smell of a flower also depends on the type of plant. There are varieties without aroma, and there are fragrant with a wonderful smell.

With proper care, up to a dozen buds can form on the peduncle.

One of the main advantages of this plant is the nodding flowering. Probably every gloxinivore wants to get just that. But for such a flowering of gloxinia, you must try to collect as many buds as possible.

When gloxinia is propagated with leaves, it takes 4 months to see the plant flowering.

Remember that the number of recruited peduncles and open bells on gloxinia depends directly on the care:

the plant needs bright and diffused lighting with a long daylight hours - 12-14 hours;
loose nutrient soil and regular feeding. They are applied in accordance with the periods of plant development: during the growth of the green mass - some, during the period of bud formation - others, you can also purchase universal fertilizers for indoor plants in gardening stores, suitable for any stage of plant life. So, during the growth of the green mass, gloxinia is fed with aqueous solutions of mineral fertilizers. In April, they are alternated with phosphorus, which promotes the laying of buds. It is at this time that the plant begins to form peduncles and prepares for flowering. Do not be zealous with phosphorus: it is brought in once a month.

The blooming period of gloxinia can be extended by stimulating it to re-bloom, which is usually less abundant. To achieve re-flowering, first carefully examine the plant and find the growing point.

If, after the first flowering, a growth point is visible in gloxinia, then soon it will delight you with the appearance of its luxurious bells for the second time. If the plant has no growth point:

Cut off almost all of the leaves, leaving 2-4 bottom leaves first.
After a while, shoots will appear in the sinuses of gloxinia. Leave one or two of the strongest, and pinch off the weak.
After that, feed the gloxinia with nitrogen fertilizer to accelerate the growth of the green mass.
When the plant begins to form buds, use a phosphate fertilizer to stimulate flowering.

It is also possible that gloxinia blooms throughout the summer and does not have enough strength for another flowering: in this case, it does not need to be cut off, it will prepare itself for wintering.

Preparing for winter

In the fall, after secondary flowering, gloxinia prepares for the dormant period necessary to gain strength for future flowering. Gloxinia leaves gradually wither. What to do in this case?

If the gloxinia continues to bloom in November, allow the plant to bloom and then cut back on watering.

Gloxinia should not be fed at this time. The only thing that is practiced: to prepare for the dormant period, you can fertilize the plants once with a potassium fertilizer (for example, potassium monophosphate). When the leaves are completely dry, watering is stopped altogether.

To prepare the plant for wintering, yellowed and withered foliage is cut off, leaving a stump of 1–2 cm

Do not immediately cut off the entire aerial part of gloxinia: for successful wintering and the subsequent awakening of the plant, nutrients must gradually move from the leaves and stem to the tuber.

There are two ways to store gloxinia tuber in winter:

in a pot with a substrate;
in a plastic bag (dug out tuber).

Let's take a closer look at them.

Wintering in the ground

If your plant is still in the pot for the winter:

Cover the container with tubers (you can sprinkle it with sand) with a pallet and pack in a plastic bag (you do not need to tie the bag).
Hide gloxinia in a cool place with a temperature of at least 10 o C.

With such storage, there is a drawback: it is necessary to ensure that the tubers do not dry out and the plant does not wake up ahead of time.

If your gloxinia stays in the ground for the winter, moisten the soil once a month so that the tuber does not dry out.

Storing the excavated tuber

Some growers dig up gloxinia tubers for the winter storage period from the pot and put them in a bag. This storage method is good because the tubers do not wake up prematurely.

To put them to sleep correctly, you need to:

In autumn, remove the tubers from the pot and place in a plastic bag.
Inside the bag, add vermiculite in half with moistened soil or sawdust. Put it in the refrigerator for 2-3 months in the vegetable storage compartment, where the temperature is maintained at about 12 ° C. In January, take out the tubers and place them in a warm and bright place so that they wake up.

Write on the labels of the packages the variety of gloxinia and the date of laying the tuber for wintering, because early awakening can negatively affect flowering

Video: preparing gloxinia for winter

"Restless" wintering

If gloxinia is not put to sleep for the winter, its stem will stretch out and become ugly, moreover, this will affect the flowering: the tuber still needs rest. But young plants grown from seeds do not have a dormant period: otherwise, a small tuber may die during the winter.

When wintering gloxinias that are not dormant, they need additional illumination

Leaving after a dormant period

In January, after wintering, when the first shoots hatch, gloxinia tubers are planted in a new, more nutritious soil. To transplant a tuber:

Carefully remove it from the ground and cut off the bad roots (rotten places are also cut with a knife, sprinkling the cuts with charcoal or ash).
Before planting, for disinfection, the tubers are dipped in a weak solution of manganese for half an hour, dried for about a day and planted in the ground, covered with a film until the first leaves emerge from the ground.
The greenhouse is periodically ventilated by removing the film in the morning and evening for one hour.
After the appearance of the first pair of leaves, the film can be removed, and the soil must be poured into the pot in order to completely cover the tuber with earth, without burying the sprouts.

It may be that gloxinia wakes up too early and the first leaves appear prematurely from the ground. In this case, if the tuber is large and strong, then it is better to remove the early leaf so that the plant does not stretch in the future.

Do not worry: when the first shoots are removed, new ones will grow in their place after a while.

Does not bloom: 9 "why"

It so happens that even after a good winter rest, gloxinia does not bloom. As a rule, the main reasons for the absence of flowers in gloxinia are:

Improper care and storage.
Old tuber. In order for the gloxinia to bloom, it is necessary to increase the watering. Water even slightly dry soil.
Infection or overfeeding of the tuber: the plant loses strength, which in the future is simply not enough for flowering.
Contaminated soil. When the soil is infested with pests, it is necessary to transplant it into another soil, previously treated with boiling water.
Lack of light at elevated air temperatures: the stems of gloxinia stretch out, the flowering period begins much later or is completely absent.
Improper use of fertilizer. The plant will react to an excess or lack of fertilization with yellow foliage and poor flowering. To avoid this, apply the fertilizer strictly according to the instructions on the package.
Draft. In the cold and in the draft, the flowers of the gloxinia curl. Favorable air temperature for her is 18–20 o C. Move the flower pot to a warmer place without drafts.
Insufficient air humidity. Dry indoor air leads to delayed flowering. Moisten the air by placing a glass of water next to the gloxinia.
Incorrect selection of capacity. Ideally, you need a low and wide planter. In a large pot, the plant spends energy on tuber growth, not flowering. Ideal proportions for pots: diameter 12 cm, height 10 cm.

With proper care, the gloxinia tuber can live for about ten years, delighting those around it with luxurious velvet bells. The more powerful the tuber, the more peduncles are formed on it, therefore, pay special attention to its choice. And one more tip: in order to prolong the flowering of gloxinia, remove the faded inflorescences in time. And remember, in order for this plant to grow and bloom easily in your home, you need to put a little effort.

06 mar 2018

Gloxinia beautiful indoor flower , which can compete in popularity with the room violet. Gloxinia and violet are relatives, belong to the same family Gesneriaceae. Their common features are velvety leaves collected in a rosette.

Gloxinia is distinguished by flowers - large bells, they are compared with gramophones. Gloxinia flowers come in different colors: pink, scarlet, burgundy, lilac, violet, with a bright border, with specks, terry shape, with corrugated edges. Single buds, each on a long peduncle. The flower after opening can last a week, but the bloom of gloxinia lasts from one month to six months, depending on the strength of the tuber and the care of the plant.

Unlike violets, gloxinia has a tuber which requires a rest period. In autumn, after the end of flowering, the ground part of the plant dries up, the tuber dormant until spring. In order for the gloxinia to bloom magnificently, it is necessary to provide the plant with a year-round cycle: in the spring - the awakening of the tuber and the growth of green mass, in the summer - flowering, in the fall - the transition of the plant to a state of dormancy, in winter - keeping the tuber in a dormant state. Each stage v growing gloxinia at home conditions study in detail.

Gloxinia tubers:

The basis of an indoor flower is a tuber, you can buy it. By growing gloxinia from seed or by rooting a leaf or cutting, you will get your flower tubers. The gloxinia tuber is flattened, with small depressions on its upper part. A healthy tuber with a smooth surface, firm, not wrinkled, without dents or wounds. The size of an adult tuber is 4-6 cm in diameter. After 3-4 years of age, the tubers age, bloom poorly, and may not germinate.

After purchasing a gloxinia tuber or after a storage period, it is recommended to disinfect and stimulate germination. To do this, the tubers are soaked for no more than half an hour in a solution of potassium permanganate or with "Fitosporin" to prevent the appearance of rot. Add drops of "Zircon" or "Epin" (1 drop per 100 ml) to the soaking solution to stimulate the tubers to germinate. After soaking and drying, spray the purchased flower tubers with "Fitoverm" or "Aktelik" for disinfection from pests and their larvae. Sections and wounds for disinfection are dried, greased with brilliant green or sprinkled with charcoal.

After soaking, you do not need to immediately plant the tubers in pots, wait until they sprout. To awaken, the tubers are laid out on a layer of peat, placed in a warm place (the awakening temperature of the tubers is + 23 ... + 25 degrees), with diffused lighting, the tubers are regularly sprayed to moisturize. After the sprouts appear, the tubers are planted in pots.

If the gloxinia tuber is not sprouting, it has a shriveled appearance, it may be dead. Live tuber on a cut, yellow or pinkish. Gloxinia tubers die due to improper storage conditions - they dry out or rot, as well as from old age.

Planting Gloxinia:

For planting gloxinia tubers, choose a pot that is not deep, 4-5 cm in diameter, large tubers... Gloxinia tubers are planted in new land at the beginning of each season.

Land for planting gloxinia suitable for violets. To compose the substrate, leaf soil, peat and sand (perlite or vermiculite) are independently mixed in a ratio of 2: 2: 1. Gloxinia does not like the acidic reaction of the soil, so it is recommended to add a little charcoal to the soil for planting, which will reduce acidity and absorb excess moisture. With a neutral soil reaction, leaf chlorosis may occur.

When planting gloxinia, be sure to drain, in a layer of 2-3 cm, from expanded clay or other material. When planting sprouted tubers, the sprouts should remain in the light, then, as they grow, the soil is poured so that the tuber is at a depth of 1-2 cm.After planting gloxinia tubers, watering is carried out along the edge of the pot and after the soil subsides, add earth.

In the spring, gloxinia the ground part is actively growing and during this period it is important to follow the rules of flower care - lighting, temperature, watering and nutrition, the correct formation of the plant and the beginning of flowering depend on these factors.

Lighting for gloxinia should be bright, but without the midday rays of the sun, so north or south windows are not suitable for this flower. From the east or west side, in the morning or in the evening, the sun's rays will not damage the flowers, the plants turn to the light source in different directions so that the rosette of leaves does not turn out to be one-sided. Gloxinia can be grown in the back of the room under artificial lighting, plants grow well under phyto lamps and flowers are presented with a better overview.

With a lack of lighting, the stem is stretched, few buds are formed, flowers and leaves are pale in color.

In direct sunlight, the flowers wither quickly, and burns may appear on the leaves.

Temperature. The growth rate of gloxinia largely depends on the temperature, and if the room is hot, the stem of the plant quickly stretches out, becomes unstable, falls under the weight of flowers and buds. Some varieties are prone to stem elongation. Excess nitrogen and lack of lighting accelerates the overgrowth of the stem even more. To grow a compact rosette of leaves for gloxinia, after germination of tubers, the temperature is kept at a temperature of + 19 ... + 23 degrees.

If the temperature is below +18 degrees, the development of indoor flowers slows down, the risk of tuber decay increases, the plants feel uncomfortable, the leaves curl, flowering does not occur.

At temperatures above +25 degrees, the flowers wither ahead of time, the stems quickly outgrow and lodge. You can reduce the effect of heat on indoor plants by increasing the humidity of the air, but you cannot spray on leaves and flowers, as water droplets will leave stains on them. Spray the air around your home flowers, and place containers of water or wet moss between the pots.

Gloxinia in top dressing needs regularly, every week or every 10 days, but the fertilizer is diluted in 2 times less concentration than for other indoor flowers. Top dressing begins after the emergence of sprouts until the end of flowering. You can use a complex fertilizer, where the ratio of nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium is balanced in a ratio of 1: 2: 2.

Excess nitrogen leads to overgrowth and elongation of the flower stem, postpones the beginning of flowering. With a lack of this element, growth is slowed down, the tuber does not grow, therefore, young plants that have not yet begun to bloom are fertilized with compounds with a high nitrogen content or alternate mineral fertilizers with organic fertilizers.

Phosphorus and potassium are important for flowering gloxinia, their lack reduces the number of buds, the buds may not open, the flowers are pale in color. A sign of a lack of phosphorus is reddening of the leaves.

Watering. Watering gloxinia you need to sparingly, after drying the top layer of earth in a pot. These house flowers tolerate a lack of water more easily than waterlogging. Excessive watering leads to rotting of the tuber, at the same time leaves and buds can begin to rot from the petioles. Accelerates the processes of decay, a combination of waterlogging and excess nitrogen in the soil.

For watering domestic gloxinia, you must use soft water at room temperature. Water the flowers along the contour of the pot, moistening the ground around the tuber and preventing moisture from entering the center of the outlet.

Gloxinia rest and tuber storage.

Gloxinia in October goes into a state of rest. Top dressing is finished after the end of flowering, watering is carried out less often, the leaves gradually wither and dry out. At the end of October, the stem is cut off, leaving a small stump, the pot with the tuber is moved to a cool place where the temperature is + 12 ... + 15 degrees. During the dormancy of the tuber in a pot with soil, rare watering is carried out so that the tuber in the ground does not dry out.

Young one-year-old plants obtained from seeds or after rooting of leaf cuttings are not put into a dormant state in the first year, they continue to be watered and fertilized in the same way. In young gloxinia, the tuber is still very small, it will not tolerate a long hibernation and will not germinate in spring. If the gloxinia has more than 5 leaves in the outlet, then its tuber can be introduced into a dormant state and sent for storage.

You can dig up a gloxinia tuber for storage, place it in a bag with peat and put it on a shelf in the refrigerator, but observing a temperature regime of at least +10 degrees. With this storage, the risk of drying out the tuber is minimal. However, you should not lower the temperature when storing tubers, since after a cold wintering, problems arise during flowering, buds can form, but not open.

The gloxinia tuber should stay in hibernation for 4 months from November to February, during which time it will gain strength for lush flowering in the new season.

Problems with growing gloxinia:

Beautiful flowers of gloxinia look decorative on a properly grown compact rosette of leaves with a short stem.

Gloxinia stretches with a lack of light, high temperature, an excess of nitrogen fertilizers. It is recommended to cut the extended stem, it can be rooted separately. After correcting the mistakes in the care, the tuber will grow a new compact shoot.