How to plant a watermelon to get large, sweet fruits. Delicious striped berry: how to grow watermelon on your own Is it possible to plant watermelons in July

In recent years, a huge number of hybrids and varieties of watermelon have appeared that are suitable for cultivation in open ground conditions, not only in the southern regions, but also in cold climates. To grow melons and gourds in your country house, you need to put a lot of effort and skill. The secrets of preparing seeds, planting and caring for seedlings will help to fulfill the dream, which will result in a large and sweet watermelon.

Site preparation

Choosing a place is an important stage in planting a watermelon, which largely determines its further growth and yield:

  • watermelon loves places with a lot of light, in shading conditions it does not develop well and will not be able to produce high yields. For planting, sunny areas are allocated that must be protected from the wind;
  • due to the highly developed root system, watermelons are highly drought-resistant; planting in places with close groundwater is unacceptable for it;
  • for the cultivation of gourds, light sandy or sandy soils with neutral acidity are most suitable. In areas with acidic soil, watermelon produces small fruits that crack while still green.

These plants are undemanding to soil fertility, they grow well both on black soil and on poor sandy and stony soils. Still, well-cultivated plots are needed to obtain large yields. To do this, in the fall, the place of the future planting is dug up and fertilizers are applied:

  • superphosphate, azofoska (according to instructions);
  • wood ash (1 l);
  • humus (5 l).

The calculation is given for 1 m 2 of the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe site. Fertilizing before planting eliminates the need for regular top dressing during the growing season of the plant.

For watermelon, you need to choose a well-lit place

Step-by-step instructions for planting a watermelon

In order for the preparation and planting of watermelon seeds to proceed correctly, the following steps should be followed.

Seed selection

This is a crucial period of preparation for sowing watermelon, as it largely determines the success of growing and obtaining fruits. A variety of varieties and hybrids allows you to choose a plant that is most adapted to the cultivation conditions in your area. Between themselves, watermelons can differ in large or small fruits, the speed of their ripening, and have different resistance to diseases.

Pre-sowing preparation of seeds

Preparation of seeds for sowing is an important stage in the cultivation of vegetable crops, especially for home cultivation, since in a limited space the requirements for plant selection increase.

Calibration

Sorting seeds by size allows you to choose the best of them, reject small and damaged ones. The selection is usually carried out manually: the seed is scattered on a smooth surface and divided into large, medium and small. Large seeds, as a rule, contain a large supply of nutrients, which will subsequently provide plants with good growth and high yields.

For sowing, choose the largest seeds

Heating and soaking

Warming and soaking increases the rate of biochemical reactions in cells, which improves seed germination, the formation of more female flowers, good growth and development of lashes.

Procedure:

  1. The inoculum is poured into a cloth bag and immersed in warm water (50–60°C) for 2–3 hours.
  2. Then transferred for half an hour for disinfection in a slightly warmed weak solution of potassium permanganate.
  3. The bag is taken out, allowed to drain excess moisture.
  4. Seeds are laid out on wet sand, a cotton or paper substrate and left in a warm room. They are kept at room temperature for about 2 days until seedlings appear.

If you bought treated seeds, they should not be soaked and should be planted directly in the ground.

Germination of watermelon seeds for planting in open ground or for seedlings

hardening

To increase the resistance of plants to sharp fluctuations in temperature and to obtain an earlier and more abundant harvest, seed hardening is carried out. Most often, seed is affected in two ways:

  • exposure to constant low temperatures. Within 1–2 days, swollen and hatched watermelon seeds are kept in a refrigerator at a temperature of 0 ± 1 ° C with occasional stirring. Such hardening can also be carried out by burying the seed in a small box or bag in the snow;
  • exposure to variable temperature. The swollen seeds are kept in the refrigerator for about 12 hours at a temperature not lower than 6 ° C, then they should be kept warm at a temperature of 18–20 ° C for the same period of time. The procedure is repeated three times.

Before sowing, the seeds are slightly dried.

Selection of containers and soil

To avoid further transplantation or picking, the seeds are sown in separate pots or containers with a volume of at least 300 ml (minimum container height - 12 cm, diameter - 10 cm). For planting, a soil mixture is prepared, into which sand, turf and peat are added in equal proportions. To 5 liters of prepared soil add:

  • dolomite flour and potassium sulfate (50 g);
  • double superphosphate (100 g);
  • ammonium nitrate (50 g).

Seedling containers are filled with a mixture so that about 3 cm remains between the surface of the soil and the edge of the pot. As the plants grow, the earth can be poured into the pot.

To avoid further transplanting or picking, the seeds are sown in separate pots.

Sowing watermelon seeds

To know how to plant a watermelon correctly, depending on climatic conditions, sowing is done through seedlings or directly into open ground.

Sowing seeds for seedlings

The best time for planting is mid-late April. Sprouted seeds with a root of 1–1.5 cm are sown to a depth of 3 cm, 4–5 pieces in each container, sprinkled with earth on top, watered and covered with glass or film. The pots are placed on the brightest window, preferably the south one.

It is important that there are no drafts in the room.

Germinated seeds with a root of 1–1.5 cm are sown to a depth of 3 cm, 4–5 pieces in each container.

Planting seeds in open ground

Prepared seeds can be sown directly in open ground only in southern regions with a warm climate. The optimal time for planting is when the air temperature is set within 12–14 ° C, and the soil warms up to a depth of 10 cm. It is better to sow in the last decade of May, at which time the probability of a cold snap is significantly reduced. In cold soil, seed germination time increases, as a result of which seedlings may die or become infected with pathogenic microflora. For planting a watermelon, a hole is prepared with a diameter of about 1 m and a depth of at least 30 cm, they bring into it:

  • humus or compost (1 kg);
  • ash (1 tablespoon);
  • nitroammophosphate (1 tsp);
  • sand is additionally added to heavy soil, everything is mixed.

Sprouted seeds of watermelons are sown in the prepared holes. Prior to this, approximately 2 liters of water are poured into the seed planting site. After it is absorbed, 4–5 seeds are laid out to a depth of 3–6 cm, the hole is covered with earth and compacted. The bed after sowing is not watered. To avoid the appearance of a crust, which makes it difficult for sprouts to reach the surface, the soil is mulched with humus.

Young seedlings need a lot of water, so they are watered abundantly as the soil dries out, but not more than 1 time in 7 days. The required depth of soil moisture is at least 25–30 cm. Soon after the emergence of sprouts, the first thinning is carried out, leaving the strongest plants, in the phase of 3–4 true leaves, the procedure is repeated. As a result, 1-2 plants should remain in the hole.

Watermelon grown by direct sowing in the ground is more resistant to stresses, including drought and temperature changes, but the crop will always ripen later than that of a seedling crop.

A hole for sowing watermelon seeds in open ground is prepared with a diameter of about 1 m, the soil in it is mixed with humus and mineral fertilizers to a depth of about 30 cm

seedling care

In order for plants in pots to grow and develop well, they create optimal conditions:

  • daytime temperature should be around 25°C, at night it is lowered to 20°C. Under these conditions, sprouts will appear in 7-10 days;
  • the required length of daylight is at least 12 hours. The lack of lighting contributes to the elongation of seedlings and can cause their death; on cloudy days, it is recommended to highlight the plants with a phytolamp;
  • after the seedlings have risen, the weak ones are removed, leaving one sprout;
  • watering seedlings is carried out in several steps, avoiding water on the leaves;
  • in phase 3 of true leaves, the plant is fed with fermented mullein mixed with water in a ratio of 1:10 (or liquid complex fertilizer).

Subject to these rules, seedlings will grow strong and healthy and will easily take root in a new place.

After culling weak seedlings, one plant should remain in the pot

Transplanting seedlings in open ground

By the time the seedlings are transplanted to the garden, their age is 30–35 days, the plant has at least 4 leaves. 10 days before transplanting to the site, the seedlings are hardened: they are taken out into the open air, increasing the residence time every day. For 3-4 days before planting in the ground, the plants are kept outdoors, and in the evening before transplanting, they are watered abundantly.

After hardening, watermelon seedlings become more resistant to temperature fluctuations.

In mid-June, plants are planted in a permanent place. The transplant is carried out in the morning: the watermelon, together with the earthy clod, is removed from the container, planted in the hole, then watered and covered with a film. The root neck of the seedlings is not deepened.

After planting the seedlings, the earthen ball should be completely covered with soil, the root collar of the watermelon should be left open

Video: transplanting seedlings of watermelons in open ground

Watermelon planting time according to the lunar calendar for 2020

In order for the plant to grow and develop well, it is important not only to prepare the soil, but also to choose the right time for planting. Often vegetable growers resort to the help of the lunar calendar. Auspicious dates for 2020:

  • planting on March 3, 10 and 11 will most positively affect the growth of melons;
  • in April, the favorable time for planting seedlings are the 9th, 15th and 23rd;
  • in May, watermelons are recommended to be planted on the 13th, 14th and 20th;
  • planting garden crops is undesirable on the days of the new moon and full moon:
    • April 8 and 25,
    • 7 and 22 May.

Scheme and planting depth

There are different schemes for planting watermelons in open ground, their choice is influenced by:

  • cultivation method (watering or without artificial irrigation). Plants grown without watering occupy a smaller area, so they can be placed more densely;
  • watermelon variety (early or late ripening);
  • estimated fetal weight (3-5 kg ​​or more than 8 kg). The higher the planting density of watermelons, the smaller the fruits will grow.

When planting watermelons, it is taken into account that the plants grow widely and should not interfere with each other:

  • in the garden, early varieties are placed at a distance of 1.4x1.4 m or 1.4x0.7 m;
  • watermelons of mid-season and late-ripening varieties are planted according to the scheme 2x2 m; 2.1x1.4 m; 2.1x1 m.

The smaller number shows the distance between plants when planting, the larger one - between rows.

The higher the planting density of watermelons, the smaller the fruits will grow.

The depth of planting seed in open ground can vary from 3 to 8 cm and depends on:

  • on their size (the smaller the seed, the smaller the planting depth);
  • type of soil (on light soils, the incorporation is deeper than on heavy soils);
  • soil moisture (seeds spread on a moistened layer).

Seedlings are planted a little deeper than when growing in a pot, so that the root neck is not damaged by winds.

Neighbors and predecessors

To guarantee a good harvest of gourds, you need not only to follow the rules of planting, but also to know about the compatibility of plants with each other:

  • watermelon does not tolerate gusty winds. To create shelter, corn, peas, or beans are planted around the site;
  • all members of the pumpkin family, including watermelon, are compatible with black radish plantings. This plant secretes phytoncides that prevent the appearance of spider mites;
  • melon is an excellent neighbor of watermelon;
  • it is well compatible with potatoes and oat root;
  • corn and peas improve the growth and taste of watermelons;
  • thistle and gauze contribute to the growth of melons;
  • watermelon grows well next to plantings of greens (parsley is an exception);
  • phytoncides of tomatoes drive away aphids, sawflies and moths.

All representatives of gourds grow very strongly, so next to them it is better to plant crops that give an early harvest.

Planting some plants next to a watermelon negatively affects its growth and productivity, so the choice of neighbors must be approached responsibly:

  • gourds grow well in open, sunny areas, so they are not planted next to trees and shrubs that shade the area;
  • watermelon does not like the neighborhood of strawberries and nightshade representatives (potatoes, tomatoes, eggplant, peppers);
  • it extracts a large amount of minerals from the soil, so growing watermelon next to beets, carrots, garlic and radishes is not recommended;
  • watermelons should not be planted together with related plants - pumpkins or zucchini, as well as cucumbers.

An important agricultural technique is crop rotation. When alternating gourds with a frequency of 3–4 years, the number of pests and diseases, as well as weeds, is significantly reduced on the field. It is not recommended to grow watermelon in the same field for more than 2 years in a row, the optimal predecessors for it are:

  • winter wheat,
  • perennial herbs,
  • corn for green fodder,
  • radish,
  • Dill,
  • basil,
  • tomatoes,
  • celery,
  • roots,
  • cabbage.

It is strongly not recommended to plant gourds in the area where melons, squash or zucchini previously grew. After harvesting watermelon fruits, it is better to plant this area with legumes (green beans, peas) or garlic.

Methods for planting watermelons on the site

Depending on the climatic conditions of the region and the availability of free space, watermelons are grown in different ways.

in a bucket

In this way, watermelon can be grown at home. To do this, first seedlings are grown in a small pot. Further work is carried out as follows:

  1. Prepare a bucket with a volume of 16 liters (you can use a wooden box measuring 50x50x30 cm).
  2. The container is filled with fertile soil with neutral acidity, mixed with perlite in a ratio of 2: 1. This will protect the soil from standing water.
  3. After the third true leaf appears in the seedlings, the plant, together with an earthy clod, is transplanted into a bucket.
  4. The optimum daytime temperature is 25–30°C, at night it is 18–20°C. Such conditions are created in spring and summer on a closed balcony.
  5. Watering should be moderate, watermelon does not like waterlogging.
  6. Fertilize the soil every 2 weeks. Liquid fertilizers for vegetables are suitable for this (add 1 tsp of fertilizer to 1 liter of water). For irrigation prepare only a fresh solution.
  7. At the stage of formation of the ovary, a second top dressing is carried out with an increased content of potassium and phosphorus, and after 2-3 weeks - the third.
  8. The side shoots of the watermelon are pinched, leaving only the main lash.
  9. In the flowering phase of watermelon, artificial pollination is carried out: male flowers with stamens are plucked, petals are removed and female flowers are pollinated (with a thickening at the bottom), touching the pistils with stamens.
  10. After fruit set, no more than two berries are left on the plant, the rest are removed.
  11. Fruits about 10 cm in size are placed in a net and tied to a support.

After about three months, you can harvest delicious berries weighing about 1 kg.

According to the author, this method can be considered more like a hobby than a way to get a tasty berry. In an apartment, it is unlikely to provide the plant with optimal temperature conditions, except perhaps during the hot summer on the balcony. A home-grown watermelon is unlikely to please with the aroma and sweetness of the pulp. For those who still decide to experiment, I advise you to make a drainage hole at the bottom of the tank to protect the roots from waterlogging. And to determine if a watermelon needs watering, it can be recommended to slightly raise the bucket with the plant, guided by its weight and soil moisture.

On the trellis

In the southern regions, gourds are cultivated in open ground, in which case they do not require a garter. When grown in northern regions with a cool and humid climate, trellises can be used. This is especially true for small areas where there is little light and moisture stagnation is likely. In such places it is recommended to grow watermelons of small-fruited hybrids and varieties:

  1. On both sides, the beds are dug along a support at least 1.5 m high, ropes or twine are pulled between them.
  2. Other ropes are tied to the stretched ropes, which descend to the plants and serve as a support for the stems of the watermelon, determining the direction of growth.
  3. The end of the lowered rope is fixed on the stem of the plant or on the ground.
  4. The main stem is tied up in a vertical direction, the top is not pinched. All side shoots are removed, as female flowers are formed mainly on the main stem.
  5. The grown fruits are placed in nets, then individually tied to a trellis so that they do not fall under their own weight.

With the formation of 2-3 fruits the size of a chicken egg, the remaining ovaries are removed, since more watermelons will not have time to ripen.

The trellis is relevant for small areas where there is little light and moisture stagnation is likely.

Under cover material

The cultivation of watermelons under covering material has become especially popular at the present time. Additional costs for the film are offset by the advantages of this technology, including:

  • protection of seedlings from weeds in the early stages of growth in the open field;
  • reduction of diurnal temperature fluctuations;
  • accumulation and preservation of soil moisture.

The use of covering material allows you to reduce the period of fruit ripening by 7-10 days. This method is especially relevant in conditions of a short or humid summer and can be used in several ways:


Spunbond can be used to cover plants directly along the lashes, protecting them from possible frosts.

Features of planting watermelons in different regions

Watermelon is a heat-loving crop that needs a fairly long growing season. This should be taken into account when cultivating in regions with different climatic conditions.

In the southern regions (southern Ukraine, the Krasnodar Territory, the republics of Transcaucasia), watermelons are traditionally grown in an open way, which is facilitated by a large number of warm and sunny days necessary for the vegetation of the plant and the rapid development of fruits. After preparation for sowing, the seeds are planted directly in open ground.

In the northern regions of Ukraine, the amount of heat is not enough to ripen the fruits, so watermelon seedlings are grown first.

In regions with a moderately cold and harsh climate (Leningrad region, Moscow region, Siberia, the Far East), the harvest of watermelons will always be moderate. To obtain it, you must strictly follow some rules:

  • for planting choose only early ripening varieties;
  • to ensure acceptable temperatures, watermelons are grown in greenhouses, and in the middle zone - also in open ground under a film (spread);
  • planting is done through seedlings in pots;
  • so that the roots grow in width, watering the plants is carried out not under the root, but along the grooves dug in the middle of the aisle;
  • no more than 5-6 fruits are left on one plant, for large berries - 1-2 fruits, a plank is placed under each one so that they do not rot in cool conditions.

For cultivation in the northern regions, only early-ripening varieties of watermelons are chosen:

  • for the Moscow region:
    • Sugar baby (Sugar baby),
    • Crimson Sweet,
    • Skorik,
    • spark,
    • Producer,
    • Astrakhan,
    • top gun
    • Chill;
  • for the Leningrad region:
    • Kharkiv,
    • spark,
    • Rose of the Southeast
    • early maturing;
  • for the Urals - the same varieties as for the Moscow region, as well as:
    • Pink Champagne F1,
    • Gift to the North F1,
    • Crimstar;
  • for Siberia and the Far East:
    • Crimson Wonder,
    • Crimson Sweet,
    • ultra early,
    • spark,
    • Siberian.

The average fruit ripening period for the middle lane is about 70-80 days, the fruits are medium-sized - from 2 kg to 4-6 kg.

Hard work and knowledge of planting and caring for watermelons will surely reward you with tasty and healthy berries. You can grow watermelon even in the northern regions, you just need to choose the right variety and not be too lazy to make a shelter.

You can grow somewhere else, except for the south of our country. However, at the end of March 2017, the State Register of the Russian Federation registered 211 varieties and hybrids adapted for various climatic conditions; including those that can be grown in all regions.

Today we will talk about table watermelon (Citrullus lanatus) - it is this species that pleases us so much with its delicious fruits. Watermelon belongs to the Cucurbitaceae family. The fruit (pumpkin) is a multi-seeded berry.


Watermelon flowers are divided into female, male and bisexual. The bulk of the varieties are bisexual, but there are those in which the flowers on the plant are strictly unisexual. The female flowers are slightly larger than the male ones. Like many plants of this family, watermelon is cross-pollinated.


Watermelon flowers are located on the main shoot in the axils of the leaves according to the ripening period: in early ripening - from 4 to 11 leaves, with an average term - from 15 to 18 leaves, late varieties have flowers in the axils from 20 to 25 leaves.


Growing watermelon after related crops is not recommended. But legumes and cabbage are good predecessors.

Sowing watermelon directly into the ground

You can sow watermelons immediately into the ground, but you need to choose the right variety or hybrid for your region, otherwise you can’t count on a good harvest. Sow watermelon when the soil is warmed up to a depth of about 10 cm and the optimum temperature for seedlings is +15...+16°C.


After the emergence of shoots, they are thinned out for the first time, and in the phase of 3-4 true leaves - again, leaving the strongest seedlings at a distance of about 1 m from each other. In the greenhouse, you can take a smaller distance, somewhere around 70 cm.

Planting watermelon seedlings

The use of seedlings will help solve the problems of a short warm period required for fruit ripening, poor set and excess moisture in early summer. In my climatic conditions, the period when the watermelon fruit grows (summer) is shorter than the growing season, even for varieties and hybrids with an early ripening period.

sow in the beginning of May, immediately into separate pots with a capacity of at least 0.3 liters, because watermelon does not tolerate transplanting.


The soil mixture is made up of sod land, sand and peat, taken in equal proportions. For 5 liters of the mixture, add about 50 g of dolomite flour and potassium sulfate, about 100 g of double, about 50 g of ammonium nitrate.

Preferably 30 minutes before sowing. warm the seeds in hot water (+50...+55°С). Then germinate them in wet sand at a temperature of about + 25 ° C. When the seeds have the beginnings of a root, plant them in pots, sprinkle with sand, cover with a film and put in a warm place. During the day, the temperature should be around +25°C, and at night it should be reduced to +20°C. Seedlings will appear in about a week.

Light day must be at least 12 hours, otherwise the development of seedlings may stop. With a lack of light, seedlings can stretch out, so on cloudy days or in a poorly lit room, seedlings need to be illuminated.

When the seedlings already have 3 true leaves, they need to be fed with mullein and liquid.


V mid June you can plant seedlings in the ground, in a permanent sunny place. If you had to move it to the garden earlier, when the threat is still relevant, experienced gardeners will help protect the plants.

watermelon care

Watermelons love to drink and eat)

top dressing

When the seedlings begin to form whips, feed the plants with a solution of mullein (1:8) or chicken manure (1:20). At the same time, you need to give the plant and mineral food - it will do just fine.


Next top dressing- potash fertilizers must be given at the time of formation of the ovary.

Watering

The root system of a watermelon is rod, goes to a depth of more than 1 m, lateral adventitious roots can occupy a sufficient area in the upper layers of the soil. After planting, you can water not often, but abundantly: 3 buckets per 1 m², and at the time of flowering, watering is carried out at least 2 times a week. During the period of fruit ripening, watering is stopped.


The subtlety of growing watermelons lies in the fact that with a sharp cold snap, it can get sick and die, for normal development and full fertilization of the ovaries, it needs a temperature of +25 ... +30 ° С.

Already at + 15 ° C, plant growth slows down, therefore, in unpredictable weather conditions of the middle lane, many cover the melon with a film. On the inside, abundant condensation may form on it; to remove it, gauze is pulled under the film or.

Another subtlety of growing watermelons is pollination: if the weather is cloudy, it is more difficult for bees to do their job, so you need to touch two or more pistils on other flowers with stamens from one flower.

In the southern regions of our country, the tops of the shoots are removed: their growth stops, they begin to branch more strongly, the fruits are larger.

Varieties and hybrids of watermelons

In order to somehow streamline the varieties of watermelons belonging to one common variety, they were divided into 10 conditional groups distributed geographically:
  1. Russian
  2. Western European
  3. Transcaucasian
  4. Asia Minor
  5. Indian
  6. Afghan
  7. Central Asian
  8. Far East
  9. East Asian
  10. American
Varieties of watermelons that are grown in our country most often belong to the Russian group, less often to the Transcaucasian and Central Asian.


When choosing a variety or hybrid for your region, pay attention to the growing season. For cool non-chernozem regions, early varieties are suitable, and for warmer regions, varieties and hybrids with medium and late ripening are good. You also need to look at drought and frost resistance. Surely many will benefit from the personal experience of our readers who successfully grow watermelons in various regions:, and regions, regions,!

"Spark"

This variety belongs to the early ripe ones, it can be grown in the Non-Black Earth Region: 71-87 days pass from germination to ripening.


Watermelon variety "Spark". Photo from pixabay.com

The shape of the fruit is spherical, weighing an average of about 2.5 kg. The pulp is bright red, sweet; the peel is thin, black-green. Seeds are small. Sow in the ground from April 20 to May 10. Seedlings - from May 25 to June 10. Landing pattern - 1 m x 0.6 m.

"Crimson Sweet"

It can be grown under the condition of a short hot summer. From shoots to harvest from 60 to 70 days.


Watermelon variety "Crimson Sweet"

Anthracnose resistance is good, powdery mildew is also almost not affected. It will weigh about 3 kg, the taste is rich, very sweet.

You can visit our market, where offers of the largest online stores are collected.

Watermelon F1 Emperor's Hat 25 rub
Russian Garden

First you need to clearly understand that in order to grow a high-quality watermelon in the open field, you need the same high-quality planting material, so buy seeds in the places you have checked. If your personal plot is located closer to the south of Russia, then you can grow watermelons in open ground, otherwise, most likely, you can’t do without a greenhouse.

Place and soil

It should be a very sunny place with deep waters, as watermelon does not tolerate excessive moisture. The soil is preferable sandy or sandy, light, as the juiciness of the berry is gaining from the root system, which penetrates deep into the ground. In heavy soil, the root system of a watermelon is not able to fully develop, however, its deep loosening will slightly improve the situation. pH 6.5-7.0. Pay attention to the presence, oh how watermelon does not like them.

Well, if the predecessor of watermelons was alfalfa or winter wheat. It is impossible to grow watermelons after any melon crop or nightshade.

In autumn, the land is fertilized with rotted manure (4-5 kg ​​per 1 sq.m). Fresh manure makes the plant vulnerable to fungal diseases.

Preparation of watermelon seeds and sowing in open ground (seedless method of growing watermelons in open ground)

Before sowing in open ground, watermelon seeds need to be heated in the sun (right in a bag) for 10 days, so that their temperature reaches 55 ° C, if the seeds are wet, then up to 30 ° C. Then fill them with water and leave for 30 minutes. Those watermelon seeds that float up will have to be thrown away, they are not suitable for sowing. Next, fill with hot water (50-60 ° C), when the water cools down, drain it and soak until pecking. If the seeds cannot be calcined in the sun, then since February the seed has been stored near the battery. 3 days before the proposed sowing in the morning, prepare a solution of ash (1 part ash to 2 parts water), stir for 12 hours. On the same day, in the evening, dip the seeds for 15-20 minutes in a dark solution of potassium permanganate, rinse and dip them overnight in the prepared ash solution. Take it out the next morning and dry it.

Watermelon seeds can be sown from the end of April until mid-June, it all depends on the weather conditions and when you want to get the harvest. Focus on soil temperature (16 ° C).

Watermelon seeds are sown to a depth of 6-8 cm at the rate of 10 seeds per linear meter, let them be planted more densely, because it is not a fact that all the seeds will sprout. To obtain large watermelons, fresh seeds are usually taken for sowing, since old seeds will produce small watermelons with a large number of flower ovaries on one plant. After sowing, water the soil with warm water. The first shoots should appear a week after sowing. When 5 leaves appear, hill the plants, with careful loosening of the soil. Remember that warm weather and lack of rain is important for watermelons, so shelter should always be at hand. Sometimes, when the fruits reach 10 cm in diameter, the main lash is pinched with the removal of all side shoots, then the plant spends all its strength on the development of the main ovary.

Growing seedlings of watermelons for open ground

It is easy to grow watermelons in open ground using seedlings. To grow seedlings of watermelons, use peat-humus pots, this is very convenient because when transplanting, seedlings are not removed from them, they are planted directly in the holes, which means they do not damage the vulnerable root system. If you use plastic cups, then the seedlings are removed with a clod of earth, doing this very carefully, without damaging the roots. At the end of April, pour into peat-humus pots (each seed has its own pot) on 2/3 of the soil mixture from peat, humus and soddy soil in a ratio of 2: 1: 1. Soak the seeds in warm water (up to 50 ° C) for 10 minutes. Now deepen one watermelon seed by 1 cm. As the seedling grows, pour in the soil mixture and monitor the temperature in the room (25-30 °). When the first true leaf appears, a complex mineral fertilizer is applied, and after 2 weeks, top dressing is repeated. When you notice that the leaves of the watermelon seedlings have begun to touch each other, move the pots apart. Watermelon seedlings will be ready for planting in open ground at the age of 30 days, at which point the plant should have about 5 true leaves. A week before transplanting watermelon seedlings into open ground, harden plants (lower the temperature to 17 ° C during the day, and to 12-15 ° C at night.

Immediately before planting, seedlings are fertilized in the soil, about 2 kg of compost is added to each hole with abundant watering. Watermelon seedlings are planted in open ground in holes on ridges according to the scheme 140x70 or 140x140, deepening by 8-10 cm in the resulting slurry, but so that the root collar is 1-2 cm above the surface of the ridge. If you plant 2 plants in one hole, so that they do not touch each other, straighten the whips in different directions. Fill the holes with dry soil, then the crust will not form.

In central Russia, choose varieties of watermelons for growing in open ground with the earliest ripening period and medium-sized sizes.

Care of watermelons in the open field

Watering is very moderate, especially during the ripening period, reduce it to a minimum. 14 days after planting watermelons in a permanent place, add a solution of ammonium nitrate (20 g of the drug per bucket of water per 1 bush 2 liters of solution). During the budding period, top dressing is repeated.

Only 2-6 ovaries are left on the bush. Each time after moistening the soil, loosening is carried out until the foliage closes. In windy weather, watermelon lashes are sprinkled with moist earth, and during the period of possible frosts, the plants are covered with non-woven material.

Place foil or any other non-rotting material under the plants so that moisture, from which the fruits can begin to deteriorate, cannot spoil the crop.

Turn watermelons regularly to ensure even ripening.

Pay attention to the fruits, if one berry began to grow intensively, while others lag behind in development and turn yellow, then additional feeding is required.

Collection of watermelons

In August, there is an intensive ripening of watermelons, so their readiness for harvest can be determined by a set of signs:

  • glossy surface;
  • drying of the bract;
  • there are no hairs on the stalk;
  • when tapping on the berries, a dull sound is heard.

We invite you to watch a video on how to grow Charleston Gray and Orange King watermelons from seed soaking to harvest.

If you follow certain rules, you can get a good harvest of watermelons in your garden or in the country. This crop requires a long and warm summer. You can plant watermelons in open ground in all regions of Russia, with the exception of Siberia.

Care for striped berries should include watering, thinning, fertilizing, loosening the soil and pruning. Watermelons are prone to diseases such as powdery mildew, olive blotch, and rot. In case of infection, watermelons are treated with fungicidal preparations.

Features of growing different varieties

The plant is native to Africa. The culture belongs to the Pumpkin family. The stems of the watermelon are thin, strongly branched. They are curly or creeping. They can reach 4 m in length. Young leaves have a thick pile. Then they become rough, hard, have an ovoid-triangular shape. In length from 7 to 23 cm. Inflorescences are female, male and hermaphroditic. They are boat shaped. The fruit is a berry with many seeds. The flesh is usually pink or red, and the outer shell is green (more often with light stripes).


There are many varieties of watermelon, but all of them are conditionally divided into 2 types - woolly watermelon and African melon tsamma (wild species).

All varieties are divided into 3 groups.

Early ones include:

  • Skorik.
  • Victoria.
  • Twinkle.
  • Dolby.
  • Stabolite.
  • Jenny.

Mid-season are:

  • Ataman.
  • Couch potato.
  • Top gun.
  • Atey.
  • Dumar.

Late ones include:

  • Spring.
  • Icarus.

Currently, even varieties have been bred in which the fruits have a lemon flavor and the flesh is yellow. Black-skinned hybrids also exist.

In the Moscow region, you can grow the following varieties:

  1. 1. Skorik. The fruit is in the form of a ball weighing no more than 3 kg.
  2. 2. Light. The harvest is stable, but small. Usually the weight is up to 2 kg.
  3. 3. Crimson Sweet. It translates as "raspberry sugar". Among the early ripening varieties, the fruits are the largest - up to 8 kg.
  4. 4. Couch potato. Fruits up to 4 kg. They have a fairly long shelf life - up to 3 months. Thanks to this, you can even enjoy such a watermelon on New Year's Eve.

In Siberia, watermelons can only be grown in greenhouses. They must be strong. Suitable for polycarbonate or glass. In addition, another feature of growing watermelons in Siberia is that only the seedling method is used here, and seeds cannot be placed in open ground.

The most suitable varieties of watermelon for Siberia are as follows:

  1. 1. Chill. Good resistance to low temperatures. The variety is early maturing. The growing season takes no more than 100 days. Fruits by weight up to 7 kg. The pulp is juicy and sweet. Another advantage is the long shelf life of the berry - up to 1 year. Rozhai has good transportability.
  2. 2. Ultra early. This variety is considered quite early. Its growing season lasts up to 2.5 months. The pulp of the berries is sugary. They weigh 4-5 kg.
  3. 3. Photon. This is a medium variety. It takes 80-100 days to mature. The plant is not demanding on the soil, is resistant to diseases, the number of seeds in the berry is small, and the pulp is tender. The weight of the fetus is 3-6 kg.
  4. 4. Charleston Grey. The variety is recognizable by the elongated shape of large fruits. They weigh up to 10 kg. In care, the culture is unpretentious.
  5. 5. Siberian Lights. This variety is bred specifically for areas with harsh climatic conditions. The plant is resistant to low temperatures, lack of lighting and drought. Culture almost never suffers from Fusarium. The bark of the berry is dark, without stripes. There are few seeds. Fruit weight - up to 4 kg.
  6. 6. Siberian Giant. This is another variety that is bred for northern latitudes. It is characterized by frost resistance, large size (the fruit weighs up to 7 kg), long shelf life.
  7. 7. Ultra-early. Fruits are stored for a long time. The plant is resistant to powdery mildew and anthracnose. Culture is unpretentious in care.

Landing Rules

You can breed watermelons through seeds and seedlings. The first option is suitable for regions with warm climatic conditions.

Sowing seeds should be done in the spring as follows:

  1. 1. Select a site. On it, the soil should have time to warm up to 13 0 C.
  2. 2. Soak the seeds in clean water until the sprouts hatch.
  3. 3. Make a hole in the area. They should be 10 cm deep. The distance between the pits should be 1 m.
  4. 4. Place fertilizer in the hole. It is recommended to mix humus with 1 tsp. ammofoski and 1 tbsp. l. wood ash.
  5. 5. Put the seeds there and sprinkle with the substrate.

The first shoots usually appear after 1.5-2 weeks. If you plant watermelon seeds in open ground in regions with a cold climate, then you must wait until the end of May or the beginning of June. You can also carry out landing under the film - a kind of greenhouse. In this case, the harvest is obtained much earlier. Some prefer to cover the space between the wells with black film. This attracts the sun's rays, prevents the rapid evaporation of moisture from the soil.

Another method is seedling. It is suitable for northern regions.

Landing is carried out as follows:

  1. 1. Properly prepare the substrate. It is recommended to mix peat, fine sand and soddy soil.
  2. 2. Pick up pots. They should be large and wide. At the bottom you need to make holes to drain excess water.
  3. 3. Place watermelon seeds in special containers. It is recommended to do this in late spring. Keep containers in a warm place with a temperature of about 30 0 C.
  4. 4. Take care of the sprouts. Water seedlings periodically. It is necessary to ensure that water does not fall on the seedlings. If necessary, you need to turn on additional lamps to improve lighting.
  5. 5. Carry out hardening. This should be done 2 weeks before planting sprouts in open ground. It is necessary that they get used to such conditions. To do this, the container with planting material should be taken out for 1-2 hours on the street or on the balcony. Gradually, you need to increase the interval - add an hour every day.

Preliminary preparation of the site is mandatory before moving the seedlings into open ground. The soil should be well warmed, loosened. The place should be chosen with protection from strong winds and drafts. Watermelon seedlings feel best in those areas where legumes, alfalfa, and cabbage were previously grown. You should not choose a place where eggplants, potatoes, tomatoes, bell peppers used to grow. The ideal option is sandy or sandy soil. It is necessary to add potassium compounds and superphosphate to it. If the soil is too heavy, then fine river sand is added to it.

Planting watermelon sprouts in open ground is as follows:

  1. 1. Dig holes. The distance between them should be 1-1.3 m. Between the rows, 1.5-2 m should be left. It is recommended to place the sprouts in a checkerboard pattern.
  2. 2. Deepen the seedlings into the holes and sprinkle with the substrate. Leaves should remain on top.
  3. 3. Pour sand near the seedlings. It will prevent diseases such as root rot.
  4. 4. Water the seedlings.

In the future, it remains only to care for the culture.

Nuances of care

Watermelon care is as follows:

  1. 1. Thinning sprouts. As soon as they appear, a part must be pulled out - only the weak or sick. If healthy seedlings have sprouted too close to each other, then they can be planted in different places.
  2. 2. Watering. It should be timely and regular, once a week. For 1 sq. m plot relies on 3 liters of water. It should be poured not only under the root of the plant, but also in places between the rows. It is best to use rainwater or settled water at room temperature. During the heat, it is required to water the culture twice a week. When the fruits begin to appear, watering must be gradually reduced, and 2 weeks before the berries are plucked, it is completely stopped.
  3. 3. Loosening the soil. This must be done the day after watering. By loosening the soil, the roots gain access to oxygen. At the same time, weeds can be removed. Grass is not dangerous for watermelon, as its root system is quite branched. Weeding should be done carefully so as not to damage it.
  4. 4. Top dressing. The first time it should be carried out 2 weeks after planting the crop. To do this, use chicken manure, mullein or ammonium nitrate. As for the last substance, you will need 20 g of product per 2 liters of water. This is enough for one shrub. If you use mullein, you will need to prepare a solution in a ratio of 1:10. When using chicken manure, it is required to make a solution in a ratio of 1:10. For each bucket of such solutions, it is supposed to add another 15 g of double superphosphate and the same amount of calcium chloride. The second time feeding should be carried out when the fruits begin to set. In this case, it is recommended to use superphosphate and ammonium nitrate. You can mix 4 g of calcium chloride and ammonium nitrate with 3 g of double superphosphate. This is enough for 1 shrub. Fertilizers are supposed to be applied in the form of a powder, but then you need to water the culture. The mixture can be dissolved in water.
  5. 5. Cropping. On one bush you need to leave no more than 5-6 fruits. They should be the largest and healthiest looking. The rest will have to be cut off, otherwise all the fruits will not be able to develop fully.

As for diseases, watermelon suffers from the following:

  1. 1. Powdery mildew. A whitish-gray coating appears on the leaves.
  2. 2. Peronosporosis. Also called downy mildew. Not only a gray coating appears on the sheets, but also yellow spots.
  3. 3. Anthracnose. Pink-yellow pads form on the leaves.
  4. 4. Olive blotch. Irregular spots appear on leaves and stems. The latter also become corrugated.
  5. 5. Bacteriosis. Oily patches appear on leaves and stems.
  6. 6. Rot. It happens root, black, white and gray. The reason is fungus.
  7. 7. Cucumber mosaic. The disease is not curable. A peculiar ornament appears on the leaves.

Although watermelon is considered an unpretentious crop, with improper care, such diseases develop quite quickly. Fungicides deal with fungal infections. It will not be possible to save a plant from bacterial and viral. Of the insects for watermelon, scoops, wireworms and melon aphids are dangerous. They are helped by insecticides.

You can try to grow watermelons for years, but only those who know the characteristics of the culture succeed in tasty ripe fruits. From the article you will learn about the nuances of agricultural technology of this heat-loving plant.

Planting watermelons

Planting watermelons begins when the soil warms up to 15-17 ° C. On light soils, seeds are planted to a depth of 6-9 cm, and if the seeds are small, to a depth of 4-6 cm. Each plant should have 1-6 square meters of area - it depends on the variety, soil type and climate.

Before sowing, the seeds are soaked for a day in water at room temperature so that shoots appear quickly and amicably.

in the greenhouse

In polycarbonate greenhouses, watermelons can create more comfortable conditions than in the open air. Sometimes watermelons in greenhouses are grown in vertical culture, on trellises. You need to install props in advance, even before sowing.

Before planting, the soil is dug up along with fertilizers. The holes are marked at a distance of 40-50 cm from each other. The beds are shed with water heated to 25 degrees and above. Two seeds are planted in each hole to a depth of 5-6 cm and covered with a film on top.

In the first week after sowing, no care is required. When the temperature in the greenhouse rises above 30 degrees, the building will have to be ventilated. In the future, caring for plants in a greenhouse does not differ from care in the open field.

In the open ground

For planting watermelons choose a sunny place. In order for the plants to get more summer heat, it is worth planting them early. To do this, watermelons are grown with seedlings or the beds are preheated for several days, covering them with black plastic wrap and pouring hot water over them.

The scheme for planting watermelons in open ground depends on the length of the lashes of this variety. Optimal spacing between holes:

  • short climbing and bush varieties (Bonta, Coral, Gift of the Sun, Eureka) - 70x70 cm;
  • medium climbing varieties (Astrakhansky, Bedouin, Krimstar, Ogonyok, Shuga Baby) - 80x80 cm;
  • long climbing varieties (Memory Kholodov, Boston, Viking, Sprinter) - 150x100 cm.

You can protect tender plants from the cold using the following technique: a cropped five-liter plastic bottle is placed on each seedling, and the whole bed is covered with a film on arcs on top. Double shelter can save you from fairly severe frosts. In the middle lane, under double shelter, watermelons can be sown not at the end of May, as usual, but in the first half of the month. Plants are kept under plastic caps until mid-June and removed when the leaves become crowded.

Watering

Watermelon is drought tolerant. Its roots have a high suction power and are able to absorb moisture from the soil, even if there is little of it. In addition, plants store water in succulent stems and fruits and can use it during critical periods.

However, moderate irrigation in the first half of the growing season will benefit the plants. The first watering is carried out about a week after germination, the water should be warm. During fruiting, watering is not necessary. When irrigated, watermelons significantly increase the yield.

How to fertilize

Watermelon does not need top dressing if it is good to fill the soil before sowing, adding half a bucket of humus and a half-liter jar of ash for every square meter for digging. One tablespoon of azofoska is additionally sprinkled into each well, mixed well with the soil, watered, and then either seeds are sown or seedlings are planted.

Watermelon needs trace elements. Plants will be grateful for top dressing with microelements on leaves with an interval of 2 weeks.

At night, watermelons should not be supercooled. In the cold, the roots of the plant stop working, and nature arranged it so that the fruits of watermelons grow at night. If the night promises to be cold, a film is thrown over the bed.

Watermelons are watered very carefully, from a hose or bucket, by flooding, trying not to wet the leaves and fruits.

Watermelons have an increased need for phosphorus, and they prefer chlorine-free potash fertilizers.

The culture is very susceptible to powdery mildew and anthracnose. For prevention, it is enough to spray the lashes with Bordeaux mixture once before flowering.