The solubility of mineral fertilizers and the rules for their application. Feeding plants with mineral and organic fertilizers

When we start fiddling with mineral fertilizers at the dacha or declaring a chemical war on pests, the question of weighing the current principles always arises. It's good if the instructions on the package say that a kilogram package of fertilizer should be poured under mature tree, and dilute an ampoule with a capacity of 5 ml in 10 liters of water.

And if you need to weigh a few grams from the package or pour a few milliliters?

With your hand on your heart, answer: do you have on hand something more accurate than a balance or a half-liter can? And we begin to bitterly complain that, they say, they have not acquired again! And this continues the next year and a year later ...

Although on sale today there are very accurate and inexpensive electronic scales (not even analytical lever scales, but only pressed a button - and here's the result!), And measured laboratory containers for every taste.

Even in the kitchen, occasionally there is a need to weigh something to the nearest gram or take a volume of up to a milliliter!

But in everyday life we ​​are surrounded by objects with a fixed volume, weight and size - which must be known and used! Let's put this information together, in a plate or on a page, and try not to lose it! So, measures of weight, volume and length. On my knees, as they say.

Coins instead of weights on the scales

Let's start with old Soviet coins, which are probably lying on your desk drawers. They are useful not only as fetishes in memory of the bright past, when a round rye rye cost 14 kopecks, but now they can serve as exact weights for homemade analytical scales, for one of their versions you will need a pencil, a short school ruler balanced on it and three minutes of time ...

The denomination of coins with denominations of 1, 2, 3 and 5 kopecks exactly corresponds to their weight in grams, if the coins are not too worn out and not overgrown with oxide. Today's coins are inconvenient for this: none of them has a whole weight value in grams. So not only memory ...

We measure - 1 spoon, 1 glass, 1 box ...

Now spoons - teaspoon (5 ml) and tablespoon (15 ml), as well as Matchbox(old!) and a glass (200 ml). These are items of a standardized volume.

Now manufacturers often trick themselves with o> form. hence the volume floats somewhat, so again it is better to use old products when GOST did not welcome creativity in this aspect.

It is more convenient to summarize these data in a table.

By printing a plate and sticking it on cardboard (and not losing it!), You will save yourself from one of the many headaches of being a summer cottage!

Let us agree that we will scoop loose bodies with spoons and boxes without a "slide" (they are very different, another will hold two spoons) and mean that their moisture is average - that is, powders are "dry" to the touch. The weight in the table is in grams.

Two words about measures of length

Use a ruler to measure the distance between the thumb and middle finger of your open palm. right hand... Classic span. I have - 21 cm. “The ruler is always with you - it's convenient!

Another ancient measure of length is stride. The average adult male is 71 cm.

Fathom (arm span) - 1.7 m, oblique fathom (diagonal left foot - right hand or vice versa) - 2.5 m (actually, there are more than a dozen fathoms used in different ways ...).

Most buckets today have a volume of 10 liters. And the classic Russian bucket held 12 liters. And a barrel in the current sense is usually meant to be 200 liters, but in Russia a barrel was supposed to hold 40 buckets!

Speaking now about a glass (not in the sense of vodka, but in the sense of a measure of volume), most often I mean a volume of 100 ml (a faceted glass - just such, and not two hundred milliliters in the famous song "fell off the table"), but a traditional faceted glass, from which Professor Preobrazhensky is drinking vodka with Dr. Bormenthal in one of the scenes in the famous film by Bortko. holds 70 ml - one sip (ein drink - the Germans also know!).

You can dive into this topic almost indefinitely ... And it is enough for us to cut out the plate and not lose it ...

How many things are in one teaspoon, a tablespoon, a matchbox, a glass ...

FERTILIZERSTea roomCanteenBoxesCup*
Urea and urea3,5-4 10 14 130
Ammonium

sulphate

4,5 12 16 160
Superphosphate

granulated

6 17 22 220
Dv. granular superphosphate5 15 20 200
Potassium chloride3,5-4 14 18 180
Potassium sulfate6-6,5 20 26 260
Azofoska5,5 18 24 240

© Nikolay Ilyushin, Moscow

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Full nutrition of the plant, which ensures good growth, is impossible without phosphorus and its components. The earth does not have the amount of phosphorus necessary for planting, therefore, it is important to add phosphate additives to grow healthy, tasty, juicy fruits, vegetables and berries.

Superphosphate has undeniable advantages - universal in composition, long-acting, economical and inexpensive fertilizer. To get the most out of the fertilizer application, it is important to know how to quickly dissolve superphosphate in water. With its help, every gardener and gardener will be able to grow a rich harvest on his site.

How to quickly dissolve superphosphate in water?

Superphosphate is obtained by numerous chemical reactions... The drug is produced in granular or powder form. Powdered superphosphate is more convenient for introduction into the soil, which instantly dissolves in it and, by interacting with the root systems of plants, nourishes them and enriches them with minerals.

When bookmarked compost pit it is better to use granular superphosphate.

Simple (powder) superphosphate is a slightly gray white powder containing about 20% phosphorus oxide. It crumples and cakes from moisture, so it is advisable to store it in a dry place.

Compared to new products, this type of supplement has a narrower application, although superphosphate is quite inexpensive and is still indispensable for small household plots and agricultural land.

Simple superphosphate in granular form is obtained by granulating monophosphate. It contains a higher percentage of phosphorus oxide (about 50%) and calcium sulfate (30%). The granules are easy to store and use.

Double superphosphate is a highly concentrated formulation that instantly and easily dissolves in water, which is economical to use. In farms and in personal plots, it has found wide application. There are also compositions with sulfur and potassium sulfate, boric, molybdenum and others.

Dissolution of all superphosphate elements in water contributes to its rapid absorption by the roots, accelerates the process of delivery to the plant and assimilation of nutrition. For this reason, late spring and summer feeding of berry bushes, vegetables and flowers is popular.

It is difficult to dissolve phosphorus in water, but in liquid form it penetrates faster to plant roots... Gardeners have come up with an affordable and simple way to transfer this substance from one state of aggregation to another.

A high reaction temperature is required to dissolve superphosphate in water. For this, the granules are poured with boiling water. Keeping their beneficial features, in this case, phosphorus passes into a dispersed, easily assimilated form.

To prepare the suspension, the container with the solution is placed in a warm place and stirred as often as possible. Under these conditions, complete dissolution occurs within about a day.

The appearance of the resulting suspension resembles fatty cow's milk. When dissolving superphosphate in water, do not be too zealous. It is impossible to transfer the fertilizer to a completely liquid state of aggregation, but it is quite possible to grind phosphorus granules to the size of the smallest particles.

In order to quickly dissolve superphosphate in water, you must:

  1. To boil water.
  2. Pour 3 liters of boiling water over 20 tablespoons of granular superphosphate.
  3. Leave the resulting stock solution in a warm place.
  4. To prepare a basic formula, dilute 150 ml of the basic formula with 10 liters of water.
  5. V ready solution add 20 milliliters of nitrogen mixture and half a liter wood ash.
  6. Drizzle over the vegetables with cooked mash.

Nitrogen is instantly taken up and assimilated by the plant culture, and phosphorus provides plant nutrition for several more months. This superphosphate extract serves as the most the best feeding for bushes, fruit trees, vegetables and flowers on the site.

You can dissolve superphosphate in water in another way: using live biobacteria. For this purpose, the agrochemical is composted with various solutions of phytosporins or with humate.

The mixture obtained after the completion of the process is recommended to be diluted in water. room temperature and stand for a day, stirring occasionally. After that, this solution can be used for foliar and root feeding of various garden and garden plants.

Instructions for use

To calculate the correct dose of superphosphate application, which will not harm plants and soil, it is necessary to clearly define the specific task of its use. It is recommended to start applying top dressing only after carefully studying the instructions for using superphosphate.

A broad spectrum fertilizer has a powerful effect on plant growth and development:

  • helps to accelerate the development of tubers and roots;
  • has a positive effect on the formation of ovaries, prolongation of flowering and fruiting;
  • provides restoration of disturbed metabolism;
  • protects plants from many diseases;
  • inhibits oxidative processes in the soil;
  • helps to improve the taste and increase the yield of fruit plants.

The lack of phosphorus is evidenced by certain changes that can be observed on vegetables: "rusty" or blue leaves, purple bloom on the back of the leaf.

Such signs often appear when the seedlings are hardened or when they suddenly get cold. The roots do not absorb phosphorus well at low temperatures, and its increase should lead to the normalization of the situation when the leaves turn green again.

If this does not happen, the situation must be corrected immediately by applying fertilizer.

Superphosphate is introduced in several ways:

  • scattering over the surface;
  • adding to furrows or holes before planting;
  • when digging the soil;
  • in the form of a liquid top dressing;
  • in the compost pit.

Superphosphate is a fertilizer with a long term nutritional process. The plant, without haste, takes the dose necessary for nutrition in small portions and gradually "digests" the phosphorus.

Therefore, one should not rush to add the next portion: an overdose can negatively affect the culture. It is recommended to use concentrated double superphosphate in smaller quantities.

Simple superphosphate can be applied in spring and autumn by scattering over the site. The fertilization rate is 50 grams per 1 square meter... For particularly poor lands, it is recommended to increase the amount of additive by 30%.

Superphosphate application rates for different types plants are:

  • young seedlings of fruit trees and bushes (when planting) - 500 grams;
  • mature tall trees (in trunk circle) - 40-70 grams;
  • when digging greenhouses - 90 grams per square meter;
  • for potatoes and tomatoes - 20 grams per square meter;
  • for other vegetables - 70 grams per square meter.

Double superphosphate contains more phosphorus (50%) and nitrogen (15%) in its composition. It can easily dissolve in soil and water. Double superphosphate is recommended to be added in early spring when the ground thaws and warms up, and in the fall, when the harvest has already been harvested.

The main thing is considered spring application fertilizers when the soil is still wet after the snow melts and spring rains, so its easily soluble composition immediately begins to work. The benefits of superphosphate increase significantly with the simultaneous introduction of a potassium mixture with it.

For different types of plants, double superphosphate is recommended to be applied in the following quantities:

  • seedlings, young vegetables, leafy greens - 40 grams per square meter;
  • potatoes - 4 grams of fertilizer per hole;
  • root crops - 20 grams per square meter;
  • vegetables in greenhouses - 80 grams per square meter.

Individual proportions for different vegetables and feeding times are indicated in the instructions. The rules for using it should be followed as written. Simple superphosphate can be used with nitrogen fertilizers.

Granular and double are used simultaneously with potash dressings. The official instructions do not allow the use of this fertilizer at the same time as urea, chalk and ammonium nitrate. At least a week should pass between the application of these fertilizers.

With the correct and dosed, for a particular culture, the use of urea as fertilizer, plants respond good growth and development, as well as abundant fruiting. In addition to its versatility, there are two more important factors that make urea very popular among farmers - urea, the fertilizer is inexpensive and very affordable.

Appearance, chemical characteristics and physical properties of urea

  • Appearance - round, very light (up to white) or transparent granules. Granulation of urea in production, in high degree, prevents fertilizer from caking during storage and transportation.
  • Chemical characterization - (NH 2) 2 CO, where almost half (46%) of the total volume is nitrogen.
  • Physical properties - urea fertilizer, dissolves in many polar solvents, including plain water, which makes it possible to use it both in pure form (granules) and in the form aqueous solution required concentration.

Signs of nitrogen deficiency in horticultural and horticultural crops

  1. Unnaturally slow, depressed plant growth.
  2. Thin, weak and short shoots in shrubs and trees.
  3. Leaves: narrow and small, light green (pale) or clearly yellow. Plants suffering from nitrogen deficiency are prone to early leaf fall.
  4. Flower buds: weak and underdeveloped, their formation occurs in much less quantity than it should be. And as a result, the plants have poor fruiting.

Instructions for the use of urea

When using urea as fertilizer in the garden or garden plot it should be borne in mind that in just a few days it is transformed and modified under the influence of bacteria in the soil, during this process ammonium carbonate is released, which decomposes rather quickly in the open air, as a result of which surface use urea, of course, is possible, but ineffective.

Optimal and better results are obtained by applying this fertilizer not only on protected ground, for example, in greenhouses, but also in ordinary horticultural farms. The only condition for the maximum efficiency of urea is its immediate incorporation into the soil, due to the fact that the loss of ammonium carbonate (gaseous ammonia) is minimized, this significantly increases the penetration nutrients, in particular nitrogen, in plants.


Regardless of where and by whom urea is made, all manufacturers are unanimous in their recommendations and indicate in the instructions for use of urea that it can be used on any soils as the main fertilizer or as a top dressing for fruit and berry and / or garden crops.
Despite this versatility, it should still be noted that different crops need an unequal amount of fertilizer, and therefore agricultural technicians recommend adding nutritional supplements in certain doses, depending on the actual needs of the plants.

Important! Urea significantly acidifies the soil - this is a fact. If the soil is already acidic, then limestone (chalk) is used to neutralize these processes. It is applied together with nitrogen fertilizer at the rate of 0.5 kg of carbamide, 0.4 kg of limestone.

The use of urea as fertilizer in the garden and in the garden

Vegetative period

  • Cabbage, beets, onions, peppers, tomatoes, garlic and potatoes - 19–23 g / m².
  • When using urea for cucumbers or peas, apply about 6-9 g / m².
  • Squash, eggplant and vegetable marrow - 10-12 g / m². Top dressing is done 2 times during the entire growth period, the first during planting of seedlings, and the second - at the beginning of fruit formation.
  • Strawberries and garden strawberry- fertilizer is introduced unchanged into the soil of the plot prepared for planting berries. During the formation of buds and ovary of berries, spraying is applied, 10 gr. for 2 liters of water. To increase the yield at the beginning of September or at the end of August, plants are fed with a concentrated solution - 60 gr. for 20 liters of water.
  • Cereals - 300 gr. per hundred square meters in granular form.
  • Foliar feeding of vegetable crops, as well as protection against diseases and pests (spraying of plants) - 9–15 g for every 10 liters. water.

Before planting berry and vegetable crops

In order to fertilize the land for berry and vegetable crops in the pre-sowing period, it is enough to add urea granules (without dissolving) at the rate of 5–11 g / m². As a rule, 60% of the total required volume of urea is applied in the fall, before digging, while the rest of the fertilizer is added in the spring.

How to breed urea to fertilize fruit trees and berry bushes

Important! An overabundance of nitrogen fertilizers in the soil is also not good for plants, they can begin to grow intensively with the formation of abundant green mass to the detriment of fruiting. In this case, the formation of underdeveloped ovaries and / or fruits is possible.

If everything is clear with the use of granules - I measured the required weight and everything can be added to the soil, then how to dilute urea and make a solution of the required concentration from it can be confusing for many, especially novice farmers. And this question is especially relevant for gardeners. This is due to the fact that trees and shrubs are fertilized mainly with urea diluted in water and very rarely granular urea - just before planting a seedling, it is laid directly into the prepared hole.


In order for trees and shrubs to develop well and bear fruit abundantly from urea, as already mentioned, a concentrated solution is prepared, which is introduced directly into the area where the roots are located (near-trunk circle) and into the near-trunk stripes. If for some reason it is not possible to prepare a solution, then granules can also be added, although this is not the best way, but at the same time it is obligatory, the subsequent abundant watering. In this case, it is also important to observe the proportions of the dilution of urea.

  • Apple tree - for each adult tree about 200 g of carbamide (granules) or solution - the specified amount of urea is diluted in 10 liters of water.
  • Plum, chokeberry, irga and cherry - 120 g / 10 l.

Advice! Do not despair if you do not know how to use urea in the country and how to measure it correctly when there are no scales at hand.

In this case, you can use the tools at hand:

  • 1 tbsp. l. holds 10 gr. urea;
  • in an ordinary matchbox (without a slide) 13 grams are placed. urea;
  • 200 gram glass - about 130 gr. this fertilizer.

Properties and application of urea - video


Some gardeners and gardeners are interested in the issue of solubility. mineral fertilizers, since they are often applied to the soil in liquid form. So they are absorbed faster by plants. In addition, the introduction of mineral fertilizers, depending on their type, leads to acidification or, conversely, to alkalinization of the soil. Owners of gardens and vegetable gardens should also know about this. Let's make short review fertilizers used in household plots and recall the rules for their application.

NITROGEN FERTILIZERS

These include ammonium nitrate, ammonium sulfate (ammonium sulfate) and urea or carbamide. Dissolving them in water is not a problem. However, nitrogen fertilizers, after their introduction into the soil, are quickly washed out of it. They also acidify the soil.

PHOSPHORIC FERTILIZERS

Wait and double superphosphate in water dissolves well. The precipitate is slightly worse. When these fertilizers are mixed with water, the liquid is obtained in the form of a suspension, that is, cloudy. Bone and phosphate rock - hardly soluble fertilizers. As a result, after being introduced into the soil, they are washed out of it, and they are absorbed by plants slowly. Superphosphates can increase the acidity of the soil, and phosphate rock and bone meal can reduce it.

POTASSIUM FERTILIZERS

All of them, including potassium sulfate, potassium chloride, potassium nitrate, potassium carbonate and potassium salt, dissolve well in water. True, due to the content of various impurities, not a solution is obtained, but a turbid suspension. Kalimagnesia can only be partially dissolved, and a precipitate is formed. Potash fertilizers are slowly washed out of the soil and are also slowly absorbed by plants. As for acidification, all fertilizers, except wood ash and potassium magnesium, contribute to this. They alkalinize the soil.

COMPLEX MINERAL FERTILIZERS

It is quite easy to dissolve Ammophos, Nitrophos, Ammophos and Nitroammophos in water. True, the solution will turn out agitated. It does not bind to the soil and therefore will be quickly absorbed by plants and just as quickly washed out of it. Keep in mind that all complex mineral fertilizers slightly acidify the soil. From all that has been said, the following conclusion can be drawn:

  1. Nitrogen and complex mineral fertilizers must be applied to the soil in spring in order to ensure active growth of plants. V spring-summer period do only top dressing.
  2. Potash and phosphate fertilizers should be applied in autumn or early spring. Well, in the summer, in the form of plant nutrition. They contribute to the setting of flower buds and ripening of fruits, as well as to increase the resistance of plants to various infections and adverse weather conditions.