Our grandmothers, growing garden strawberries, or strawberries, as we used to call them, were not particularly worried about mulching. But today this agricultural practice has become fundamental in achieving High Quality berries and reduce crop losses. Someone might say that it is troublesome. But practice shows that labor costs in this case are repaid a hundredfold. In this article, we invite you to get acquainted with the nine best materials for mulching garden strawberries.

Succulents are very diverse. Despite the fact that "babies" have always been considered more fashionable, to the assortment of succulents with which you can decorate modern interior, it is worth taking a closer look. After all, colors, sizes, patterning, degree of prickle, influence on the interior are just a few of the parameters by which you can choose them. In this article, we will tell you about the five most fashionable succulents that amazingly transform modern interiors.

Mint was used by the Egyptians as early as 1.5 thousand years BC. It has a strong aroma due to the high content of various essential oils with high volatility. Today mint is used in medicine, perfumery, cosmetology, winemaking, cooking, ornamental gardening, and the confectionery industry. In this article, we will consider the most interesting varieties of mint, and also talk about the features of growing this plant in the open field.

People began to grow crocuses as early as 500 years before the advent of our era. Although the presence of these flowers in the garden is fleeting, we always look forward to the return of the heralds of spring next year. Crocuses are one of the earliest primroses that bloom as soon as the snow melts. However, flowering times may vary depending on species and varieties. This article focuses on the earliest crocus varieties that bloom in late March and early April.

Cabbage soup from early young cabbage on beef broth - hearty, aromatic and easy to prepare. In this recipe, you will learn how to cook a delicious beef broth and cook light cabbage soup in this broth. Early cabbage cooks quickly, so it is put into the pot at the same time as the rest of the vegetables, unlike fall cabbage, which takes a little longer to cook. Ready-made cabbage soup can be stored in the refrigerator for several days. The present cabbage soup is tastier than the freshly cooked one.

Looking at the variety of tomato varieties, it is difficult not to get confused - the choice is very wide today. Even experienced gardeners are sometimes confused by it! However, it is not so difficult to understand the basics of selecting varieties "for yourself". The main thing is to delve into the peculiarities of culture and start experimenting. One of the easiest tomato groups to grow are varieties and hybrids with limited growth. They have always been appreciated by those gardeners who do not have a lot of energy and time to care for the beds.

Once very popular under the name of room nettles, and then forgotten by everyone, Coleus today are one of the brightest garden and indoor plants... They are not in vain considered stars of the first magnitude for those who are looking primarily for non-standard colors. Easy to grow, but not so undemanding as to suit everyone, Coleus require constant monitoring. But if you take care of them, the bushes of velvety unique leaves will easily outshine any competitor.

Salmon ridge baked in Provencal herbs is a "supplier" of tasty pieces of fish pulp for a light salad with fresh leaves of wild garlic. Champignons are lightly fried in olive oil and then poured with apple cider vinegar. These mushrooms are tastier than regular pickled mushrooms and are better for baked fish. Ramson and fresh dill get along well in one salad, emphasizing the aroma of each other. The garlic pungency of wild garlic will saturate both the flesh of the salmon and the pieces of mushrooms.

Conifer tree or a shrub on the site is always great, and a lot of conifers are even better. Emerald needles of various shades adorn the garden at any time of the year, and phytoncides and essential oils secreted by plants, not only aromatize, but also make the air cleaner. As a rule, most zoned adults conifers are considered very unpretentious trees and shrubs. But young seedlings are much more capricious and require competent care and attention.

Sakura is most often associated with Japan and its culture. Picnics in the shade flowering trees have long been an integral part of the meeting of spring in the Land of the Rising Sun. The financial and academic year begins here on April 1, when the magnificent cherry blossoms are in full bloom. Therefore, many significant moments in the life of the Japanese are marked by their blossoming. But sakura grows well in cooler regions - certain species can be successfully grown even in Siberia.

I am very interested in analyzing how the tastes and addictions of people to certain foods have changed over the centuries. What was once considered tasty and was an object of trade lost its value over time and, conversely, new fruit crops conquered their markets. Quince has been cultivated for over 4 thousand years! And even in the 1st century BC. e. about 6 varieties of quince were known, and even then methods of its reproduction and cultivation were described.

Delight your family and make themed Easter egg-shaped cottage cheese cookies! Your kids will be happy to take part in the process - they will sift the flour, combine all the necessary ingredients, knead the dough and cut out intricate figures. Then they will watch with admiration how the pieces of dough turn into real Easter eggs, and then with the same enthusiasm they will eat them with milk or tea. How to make such an original cookie for Easter, read our step by step recipe!

There are not so many decorative leafy pets among tuberous crops. And Caladium is a true star among the variegated inhabitants of interiors. Not everyone can decide to start a Caladium. This plant is demanding, and first of all - to care. But still, rumors about the extraordinary capriciousness of the Caladiums never justify. Care and attention will help to avoid any difficulties in growing caladiums. And a plant can almost always forgive small mistakes.

We have prepared a hearty, incredibly appetizing and simply elementary dish for you today. This gravy is one hundred percent universal, as it goes with every side dish: vegetables, pasta, or whatever. Gravy with chicken and mushrooms will save you in moments when there is no time or you don't want to think too much about what to cook. Grab your favorite side dish (you can do it ahead of time to keep everything hot), add the gravy and lunch is ready! A real lifesaver.

Among the multitude different varieties We will tell you about three of these most popular vegetables, which differ in excellent taste and relatively unpretentious growing conditions. Characteristics of the varieties of eggplants "Almaz", "Black Beauty" and "Valentina". All eggplants are medium-firm. For Almaz it is greenish, while for the other two it is yellowish-white. They are united good germination and excellent yield, but at different times. Skin color and shape are different for everyone.

If you dream of growing big garden with fruit trees, our article will help you find answers to all your gardening questions. You will learn how to properly plant seedlings, take care of them depending on the season and prune them. fruit trees in the spring to preserve yields.

Planting garden fruit trees

Novice gardeners often make a common mistake, namely, planting garden crops incorrectly.

Note: Digging a hole, inserting a seedling into it and sprinkling it with earth is far from all that is needed for rooting and growth. In order for the culture to take root, you need to choose the right place, prepare the site and transplant in accordance with all the rules.

Planting horticultural crops is best done in early spring when the soil warms up. In some cases, it is allowed and autumn planting, but in this case, the seedling needs to be looked after more carefully so that it has time to take root and get stronger for the winter.

Correct disembarkation is carried out like this(picture 1):

• The seedling is inspected for damage and any dry or injured roots are removed;
• The site has been prepared since the fall: deep digging is carried out, weeds are removed and organic fertilizers are applied (best of all, rotted manure);
• Make holes for planting. On sites with good drainage you can just dig a hole in the ground, but if the soil is too wet, it is better to land in small mounds;
• When preparing the pit, the fertile soil is folded separately. Later it is used to fill the well.

Picture 1. Correct fit horticultural crops

It is important to make a hole suitable size... The straightened roots should fit freely in it. After placing the seedling in the hole, the roots are sprinkled with fertile soil, watered and compacted. When the water is absorbed, you can water it again. In the future, it is necessary to observe the seedling in order to apply fertilizers in time, water or spray the crop from diseases and pests.

From the video you will learn how to properly graft fruit trees.

Seedling care

In order for the garden to be productive, and young plants to take root faster, they need to be constantly looked after.

Basic seedling care includes(picture 2):

1. Caring for near-trunk circles includes a gradual expansion of the treated soil around the trunk. Insofar as root system grows rapidly, annually increase the space, carry out surface loosening in the spring and deep digging with a pitchfork in the fall. In summer, weeds are removed from the tree trunks, which can interfere with the development of the seedling.
2. Watering plays an important role in the rooting of seedlings. V temperate climates it is enough to water it 2-3 times a week, but if a drought has begun and natural precipitation is absent, moisture is applied daily (mainly in the evening).
3. Fertilization especially important when planting on soils with low fertility. Nutrients entering the soil are absorbed by the roots, and the tree grows more actively and begins to bear fruit earlier.

Figure 2. The main stages of caring for fruit crops: pruning, whitewashing of trunks, watering and installation of supports for branches

Young seedlings are also necessarily inspected for symptoms of diseases and pest larvae. This will allow spraying to be carried out on time to maintain the vitality of the crop. Also, pruning is carried out annually to form the crown and stimulate the formation of new shoots.

The features of caring for fruit trees are described in detail in the video.

Fruit trees for the garden: names and photos

Among the popular garden trees there are many types. Unfortunately, not all of them are suitable for growing in temperate climates. For example, citrus and subtropical fruits can only be grown in warm southern regions.

The most common are these types fruit trees and fruit bushes(picture 3):

• Pome fruits (pears, apple trees, quince, irga and mountain ash);
• Stone fruits (cherries, apricots, peaches, plums, etc.);
• Walnuts (walnuts and hazelnuts, almonds);
• Berries (strawberries, wild strawberries, currants, gooseberries, raspberries, etc.).

Figure 3. Popular types of horticultural crops: 1 - pome fruit, 2 - stone fruit, 3 - walnut, 4 - berry

You can also grow rose hips, sea buckthorn, mulberry, honeysuckle and hawthorn in the gardens. The variety of species is very great, and thanks to the work of breeders, it was possible to develop varieties that are resistant to temperature extremes and diseases.

Varieties

One of the most important conditions successful cultivation horticultural crops is right choice varieties. All bred crops are tested for many years for compliance with the soil and climatic conditions of the region. Therefore, each climatic zone has its own varieties.

The best are considered winter hardy varieties, since they take root well in any climate, and a decrease in temperature does not affect productivity.

Among the best winter-hardy varieties, there are:

• Apple trees Antonovka, Grushovka Moscow and Medunitsa;
• Pears Lada, Chizhovskaya and Cathedral;
• Plums Amusing, Hungarian Moscow and Blue Gift.

There are also winter-hardy varieties of cherries (Molodezhnaya, Pamyat Yenakieva) and sweet cherries (Bryanskaya rozovaya, Tyutchevka, etc.).

Fertilizers for planting fruit trees

The acclimatization of seedlings also depends on the fertilizers that were applied during the planting process.

Note: When preparing the hole, the upper (fertile) layer of soil is removed and not mixed with the rest of the soil extracted from the hole. This land is later used to fill the space inside the hole.

Traditionally, organic and mineral fertilizers are used during planting. From organic fertilizers, you can use rotted manure and compost. Fresh organic matter cannot be used, since the release of ammonia during the decomposition process can provoke root rot.

From mineral fertilizers during planting, you can use any means, except for preparations containing nitrogen. Such feeding reduces the rate of plant survival. Nitrogen-containing preparations are added later, when the seedling is acclimatized.

Caring for fruit trees in early spring

Basic garden maintenance in spring involves pruning. First of all, shoots and branches damaged by frost are removed.

Preventive spraying is also carried out until the kidneys awaken. Most often, diesel fuel is used for this. It does not harm the seedling, covering it with an oily film, which blocks access to oxygen for the larvae.

Care rules

The basic rules of care include whitewashing and pruning (Figure 4). After inspecting the trunks and branches, remove all damaged parts. It is also necessary to remove the covers and inspect the trunks for damage. If there are wounds on the trunk or branches, they are cleaned of the remnants of the bark, treated copper sulfate and cover with garden var.

Whitewashing of trunks has several functions. First, it destroys the larvae of pests that have overwintered under the bark. Secondly, it protects the bark from sunburn.

Figure 4. Rules for caring for the garden in spring

In addition, in the spring, complex mineral fertilizers are applied to the root circles, which will help the plants maintain yields and get the necessary nutrients from the ground.

Peculiarities

Among the features of spring gardening, preventive spraying against pests can be distinguished. They are carried out in several stages. The first time the treatment is carried out during the dormant period, when sap flow did not begin in the trunk and branches. The second time, processing is started during the flowering period, using special chemicals for this. All these activities help to protect crops from diseases and pest infestations.

In the fall, they not only harvest the harvest, but also begin to prepare the garden for winter. It is not worth neglecting winter procedures, since their quality determines how successfully the crops will endure the cold season and retain the ability to bear fruit.

Care rules

In autumn, horticultural crops require such care (Figure 5):

• After harvest the trunks are completely cleaned of leaves, fruit residues and dry branches. Any organic matter on the soil surface will start to rot and can cause fungal infection.
• Under the root make potash and phosphate fertilizers. This will help the plants gain strength before winter. It is not recommended to use nitrogen-containing fertilizers, as they activate growth and prevent plants from entering a dormant state.
• After stopping sap flow carry out pruning. But if the trees were not damaged, this point can be missed, since not all crops normally tolerate the removal of branches immediately before the onset of cold weather.

Figure 5. Autumn garden care and preparation of plants for winter

It is also advisable to re-whitewash the trunks with lime and spray the garden with insecticides.

Peculiarities

the main goal autumn care- prepare trees for winter. Having collected the entire crop, be sure to clear the near-stem circles from leaves and dry branches, loosen the soil and apply potash and phosphorus fertilizers.

Autumn pruning is carried out only when necessary (for example, if sick or damaged branches were found), so as not to stress the plant before winter. Obligatory care also includes whitewashing of trunks and insulation of young crops. They are wrapped in insulating material, and the trunks are covered with mulch. This will help protect the plants from frostbite.

Also, bait for rodents is laid out on the territory, which can damage the bark in winter.

Pruning fruit trees in spring: scheme

Spring pruning carried out by correct scheme, will help accelerate the growth of crops, preserve their productivity and help prevent the development of diseases.

Note: Pruning can be carried out in winter, but only in the absence of severe frosts. If the temperature drops below -8 degrees, branches cannot be removed, since the resulting wound can lead to the death of the entire plant.

There are several types of pruning that can be done in the spring.(Figure 6):

• Sanitary involves the removal of all damaged and diseased branches. It is this procedure that is carried out in early spring, during the inspection of crops after winter.
• Rejuvenating helps to maintain the yield of old specimens. In this case, old branches are removed, which practically do not bear fruit. In their place, new shoots with young fruitful shoots are formed.
• Pruning for crown formation more suitable for young seedlings, branches on which grow chaotically. The main purpose of the procedure is to form a crown correct shape and free the central part of the trunk from unnecessary branches to enhance fruiting.

Figure 6. Types of spring pruning

For pruning, only sharp garden tools are used: secateurs and special hacksaws, with which you can make an accurate and even cut.

When to start pruning

Regardless of the climatic zone, when to start pruning in the spring depends on temperature and weather conditions.

Note: The general rule of thumb is to delete branches when the tree is dormant. So it will experience less stress, and the wound will heal faster.

As a rule, spring pruning begins in March. At this time, the movement of the juice has not yet begun, but the buds are already ready to awaken, so the wounds will heal quickly, and the plant will not experience severe stress.

Pruning rules

The main rule of spring pruning is to determine in time the moment when the tree is still sleeping, but the buds are ready to open. So you can do several important conditions: Remove excess or damaged branches without stressing the crop, and speed up wound healing.

Among the basic rules are the following:

• For work, use only sharp garden tools (sectors and hacksaws) so that the cut is smooth. The hacksaw you use for cutting should not be used for construction or other work.
• It is advisable to prune in warm, windless weather, so that the cut does not damage cold air and wind.
• After the procedure, the cut site is covered with garden pitch, and the trunk is whitewashed with lime.

By observing these simple rules, you can easily maintain the vitality of trees, renew old plants and activate the growth of young ones.

Pruning fruit trees in winter

Contrary to popular belief, in winter, trees not only can, but also need to be pruned. The only contraindication is severe frost... If the air temperature drops below -8 degrees, the branches should never be removed. The resulting wound will take a very long time to heal, and the plant may die.

However, winter pruning has several important benefits. First, the tree is dormant and not under severe stress. Secondly, branches devoid of leaves are much easier to handle and inspect, so the cut can be made more accurate and even.

The place of the cut must be covered with garden varnish to protect healthy tissues from hypothermia or damage.

Pruning fruit trees in winter: video for beginners

Since winter pruning has some peculiarities, certain rules must be followed to carry it out.

If you have never removed branches in winter before, we recommend watching a video that will help you carry out the procedure correctly, while maintaining the productivity and vitality of the crop.

Grafting and re-grafting is one of the main stages of caring for horticultural crops (Figure 7). Vaccination is a way vegetative propagation fruit crops... A seedling grown from seeds, in most cases, does not retain varietal characteristics, therefore it is grafted (a bud or a cutting is transferred from another crop). After fusion, the gardener receives a full-fledged varietal tree.

Figure 7. Features of vaccination and re-vaccination

Re-vaccination has a lot in common with vaccination, with the exception of one significant difference. A stalk with formed buds from another variety or even a plant is implanted into the trunk. As a result, the main tree will develop and bear fruit separately, and a full-fledged shoot will grow at the grafting site, which will bear the fruits of its own variety.

Note: With the help of grafting, you can successfully grow crops that, due to climatic or soil conditions, cannot be cultivated traditionally.

Before the onset of spring, the trunks of fruit trees are rubbed lime milk... Apart from everything, White color reflects the sun's rays, which avoids overheating during intense sunlight and a sharp drop in temperature at night, especially below zero.

The moisture-proof bowl around the tree is covered with dry soil, compost, peat or plant residues in spring, this prevents rapid evaporation of moisture.

During the growing season, especially during dry periods, fruit trees are thoroughly and abundantly watered. Watering often, but little by little, is useless. Moisture does not reach the roots, lingering in the surface layer of the earth, on which a crust then forms. To retain moisture around the tree, even before its flowering, it is useful to lay peat, straw manure or grass in a layer of 5-10 cm.

If any tree has not bloomed in spring, it must be dug out of the ground, the roots should be shortened and the roots should be immersed in water for several days (preferably in a cellar) or covered with damp earth. Only after it turns green can it be planted back into the ground.

During the growing season, especially after rain (before the formation of a dried earth crust), the soil around the tree must be finely loosened several times. It is necessary to loosen it in May-July, when mainly the formation of shoots and fruits takes place. In August and September, the soil is not disturbed, which ensures better ripening and color of the fruit.

In autumn, the earth is dug around the tree to a depth of no more than 10 cm, and in the aisles - up to 15 cm. Around the tree, digging is carried out only with a spade-pitchfork, which does not damage the roots so much. Even better than loosening, a shallow trench. In the summer, it is generally not recommended to loosen the ground. After the soil dries up in the spring, it is treated with the reverse side of the rake (also in order to reduce moisture loss from evaporation).

Various plants can be grown under fruit trees to enrich the soil with humus. For this purpose, field peas, forage vetch, white mustard, buckwheat, phacelia, white clover, multiflorous chaff, annual ryegrass, etc. are most suitable, and on sandy soils - lupine.

The seed is applied from early July to early August in moist soil. Plants are planted only in spring. In winter this planting material protects the soil from severe freezing and helps to better retain snow. It is not recommended to grow green manure plants in areas with rainfall below 500 mm, as well as in young fruit plantations.

Vegetables can be grown between newly planted trees, and between dwarf plantings in the case when they have not reached 3 years, and among taller seedlings - up to 8 years. The most suitable vegetables for this purpose are bush beans, peas, lettuce, early cauliflower, kohlrabi, cucumbers, celery, tomatoes, carrots and early potatoes. However, you cannot plant vegetables directly under fruit trees.

Fertilizer

The basis of fertilization of fruit trees is organic fertilizers. As a rule, well-compacted or composted manure is used; in the fall, it is introduced into the soil to a depth of 10-15 cm or over the entire cultivation area under trees, sometimes along the diameter of the crowns under each tree. Lighter soils are fertilized annually or every other year, heavy soils every 3-4 years. Large doses of fertilizers are applied under weakly growing trees. Instead of manure applied in autumn, often in spring, compost can be used. Dry bird droppings are also used (100-200 g per 1 m 2).

Along with organic fertilizers, mineral and chemical fertilizers should be applied to the soil. If green manure plants are also grown under the trees, the dose of manure or compost can be reduced by half.

One tree at the age of 2-3 years requires 12-15 kg of fertilizer; the dose of fertilizers increases every year, i.e. for an eight-year-old tree, it requires 40-50 kg, and older trees with a crown diameter of 6 m consume 120-160 kg of fertilizer.

Mineral fertilizers are used taking into account the reaction of the soil, the age and fertility of the tree. In autumn, when plowing the soil, phosphorus and potash fertilizers so that these substances have already been assimilated during the growing season. With the onset of spring, nitrogenous fertilizers are applied. You can use combined fertilizers in autumn and spring, which gives a tangible effect. During the growing season, nitrogenous fertilizers are added additionally, and they are introduced into the soil shallowly.

In the year when the soil is fertilized with a full volume of compost or manure, the dose of mineral fertilizers is halved. If the trees grow too violently, and the shoots ripen poorly, the amount of nitrogenous fertilizers applied is reduced, and more phosphorus and sulfur fertilizers are added. If previous crops are grown under the trees, the amount of fertilizer applied should be increased in accordance with their need.

For feeding weakly growing trees, it is allowed to use liquid fertilizers during the growing season. For example, fermented bird or rabbit droppings diluted in 10 parts water are useful. You can also use a solution of complete fertilizers that dissolve well in water. These liquid fertilizers are poured into grooves 10-15 cm deep around the crown circumference. After the liquid has been absorbed into the soil, the grooves are leveled.

Lime is introduced into the soil in accordance with its reaction. It is especially necessary for stone fruits; berry crops less demanding in this respect. It should not be overlooked that it is impossible to simultaneously introduce calcium fertilizers and manure, as well as superphosphate and chemical nitrogenous fertilizers.

In case of an acute lack of nutrients, when their supply from the soil is in any way limited (waterlogged soil, damaged roots), spraying the leaves with a nutrient solution can be recommended. 400 g of ammonium nitrate with limestone or 500-600 g of urea, 500-600 g of potassium bisulfate and an extract of 3-4 kg of superphosphate are dissolved in 10 liters of water. The most favorable period for such spraying is the period after flowering. With a clear lack of nutrients, spraying is repeated one or two more times after 10-14 days. As necessary, such spraying is combined with spraying against diseases and tree pests.

Protection against diseases and pests

The best defense is prevention. If fruit plants create good conditions and, accordingly, take care of them, they will not cause much trouble for the gardener.

And if you also foresee everything in order to attract birds and helpers, then worries will diminish altogether. To do this, it is enough to install bird feeders in the garden for the winter, replenish the feeders with food, and for some useful birds, put titmouses and birdhouses so that the birds will hatch chicks directly on the site. The birds will repay the owners with good - they will engage in useful work: the destruction of pests.

If, nevertheless, any controversial issues arise, you need to try to find out the reason and, after consulting with a specialist, make the appropriate adjustments for caring for the garden and in the fight against pests. Chemicals used only as a last resort.

Healthy, blooming garden bringing a rich harvest largely depends on proper, high-quality care, especially in spring... The time for the awakening of all living things is important and troublesome for gardeners. Perform all work depending on weather conditions and climatic zone.

First work in the garden

Work in the garden begins with the release of the branches of the plantations from melted snow, if at the end of winter there was an abundance of precipitation. From the spring sun, the snow becomes loose and heavy, it can easily break thin branches. To avoid this, shake it off. If the branches have already buckled and fell, build supports to support them.

The next tip is relevant for areas with a slope. So that the melt water is retained and the flood does not erode the soil, build ramparts of snow across the slope.

Stock up on melt water - it is rich in useful microelements. For this, containers must be filled with snow and added as it melts.

With the arrival of spring, not only vegetation wakes up - rodents and pests are ready to activate. Inspect existing bait poisons, prepare new ones if necessary.

The snow has melted - start cleaning the garden. Collect old leaves and other debris, and get rid of weeds if they appear.

Whitewashing - protection of horticultural crops

How to whitewash trees

Even before the snow melts completely and the trees "wake up", choose a dry day and whitewash.

Before work, prepare damaged trees: clean the trunk with a brush, remove dead bark, at the same time overwintered and remaining pests will be destroyed. Growths, lichens are also peeled off. Cover all open cracks with garden varnish. Whitewash after the treated areas are completely dry.

Early whitewashing is a double benefit to wood:

1. Prevents burns that can appear on the bark from bright spring rays, therefore use only white.
2. Protects the tree trunk from insect pests.

Choose which solution to apply yourself. Acrylic paint rain is not terrible - this whitewash is the most resistant. You can use special store solutions and self-prepared, with the addition of any adhesive.

How to whiten fruit trees

The most common is whitewashing with lime:

• 2.5 kg of lime is diluted per bucket of water;
• half a liter of copper sulfate;
• wood glue is added - 200 grams so that the solution on the tree lasts longer.

Whitewashing based on manure and lime:

• 1 kg of lime and manure;
• 200 grams of copper sulfate;
• Mix the specified components in 8 liters of water, leave for about 2 hours.

Clay-based whitewashing solution:

• mix 1 kg of fatty clay in 10 liters of water;
• 2 kg of slaked lime;
• a shovel of cow dung;
• 250 grams of copper sulfate.

Insist 2 hours Whitewash the young trees with a mixture based on chalk, under such a solution the bark will breathe freely.

Spraying trees and shrubs in the garden

Caring for a garden in the spring is a must for the prevention of pests and disease control.

When to process trees

Treat fruit and berry crops with special preparations at least 3 times:

• before vegetation (kidney swelling);
• before flowering;
• 7-10 days after flowering.

How to spray fruit trees

Early spraying of trees with Bordeaux liquid or copper sulfate, urea, (urea) will save the plants from many problems. There are other means of treatment: chemical, combined, but the above are effective and one of the most budgetary. The gardener decides which drug to choose.

1. Start the first treatment when the temperature has reached 5 ° C heat. During this period, spraying will destroy successfully overwintered pests.
2. The use of special preparations before flowering will help protect the buds, cope with pest larvae and fungal diseases.
3. The next treatment is needed to destroy the appeared insects and fruit rot.

Remember, it is not recommended to spray the trees during flowering.

Tree feeding

Garden maintenance includes spring feeding trees, contributing to nutrition and improving the quality of the soil. Everything necessary elements for growth, plants are obtained through mineral fertilizers, so do not forget about them every year. Organic: compost, peat, manure is enough to use once every 2 - 3 years. Usually, in the spring, the soil is fed with nitrogen, and in the fall, manure, phosphorus, and potassium are used.

Fertilization timing

Apply the first fertilizer in March. Mineral mixtures dissolve well, they can be sprinkled on snow. Together with melt water, nutrients are absorbed into the ground. On a site with a slope, such feeding will not be effective: it will be carried away by melt water.

Another option is relevant for all fruit and berry crops: 2/3 dose nitrogen fertilizers add when you dig up the trunk circles.

Dosage of organic and mineral fertilizers for the garden

Be attentive to the fertilization process: both a deficiency and an excess of minerals will negatively affect fruit-bearing trees. For example, an irregularity of such a useful element as nitrogen can affect frost resistance and overall plant growth.

More accurate fertilization data are shown in the table.

Table 1. Dose of fertilization per one fruit tree

Planting year	Diameter trunk circle, m	Organic fertilizers, kg	Mineral fertilizers, g
			Nitrogen	Phosphorus	Potassium
2nd	2,0	6	10	10	15
3rd, 4th	2,5	10	20	20	30
5, 6th	3,0	15	30	30	45
7, 8th	3,5	20	60	40	60
9, 10th	4,0	25	75	50	75
11, 12th	5,0	40	120	80	150

In addition to mineral fertilizers for feeding, use organic matter: manure and compost. Rotten manure improves soil properties. Clay in structure becomes less viscous, and light, free-flowing ones increase their moisture capacity. Organic fertilizers not only have a positive effect on the soil, but also nourish with useful elements.

Valentina Kravchenko, expert

How to fertilize plants correctly

Do not feed young plants, start this beneficial process from the second year of the tree's life.

Consider the following factors when applying fertilizer:

• plants absorb the liquid form of fertilizers better;
• do not apply top dressing near the trunk: roots that absorb nutrients are located along the perimeter of the branches;
• fertilize in the evening or on a cloudy day;
• so that the roots do not get burned, first moisten the soil, only then apply liquid fertilizers;
• keep the ground near the tree in a loose state, so the plant "breathes" better;
• after applying dry fertilizers, water the near-stem area along with top dressing.

Pruning - effective sanitation

Trees and shrubs that have not been pruned during their growth look worse, age faster, and their yield decreases.

When to prune fruit trees

Finish all pruning work before the buds begin to swell. Before performing the procedure, wait until the temperature column does not drop to minus 5 ° C, and night frosts to minus 10 ° C will not return.

During pruning, material is also collected for subsequent grafting of fruit trees. Selected shoots are cut, grafted immediately or stored in the dark cool place before the onset of sap flow.

The basics of successful garden plant pruning

• start pruning before sap flow begins;
• first of all, free the tree from the shoots damaged during the cold weather, this is an extra load that only hinders the development of the plant;
• remove dry and broken branches;
• cover the cuts with garden pitch if branches with a diameter of more than 15 cm were cut;
• first, domesticate the fruiting plants, and the young 10-15 days later.

Care and planting of seedlings

Inspection and treatment of trees in spring

If the frosts recede, remove the insulation from the boles. Examine the trees to see if they are intact, whether rodents have reached them.

If injured, treat the tree:

1. Peel the bark spoiled by mice and process it with iron vitriol (for this, a 5% solution is taken), then cover it with garden varnish.
2. The tree, which the hares have reached, takes more serious damage. In this case, "bridge" vaccinations are used.

Planting seedlings in spring

Start planting in the garden in the spring as soon as the snow recedes, 2 weeks before the growing season. Until the trees "woke up" the planting will be more efficient.

• Check the soil so that it is not frozen, the seedlings will not survive in such soil.
• Dip the roots of the tree in a clay mash to increase the grip of the bottom of the tree to the ground.
• Prepare pits for new plants in the fall, then you can fill them with fertilizers.
• If fertilizers were not applied before winter, then put rotted manure on the bottom of the pit where you plant the tree. Apply a nitrogen-based fertilizer shortly after planting.

Well done spring care will affect how trees and shrubs are prepared for the new season. A responsible approach to gardening will ensure a high result - a well-groomed, beautiful, healthy, fruitful garden.

Fruit trees after winter damage

Apple tree "changes skin"

Spring is not far off. She brings a lot of joy to amateur gardeners. Plants also lurked in anticipation, anticipating clear sunny days ...

Unfortunately, spring brings not only joy to our gardens, but also problems. One of the most troublesome and painful - winter damage to trees. How to heal our green friends? The answer to this question can be found in almost all gardening books. But many of the recommendations are quite complex, not available to the average summer resident.

I decided to describe several techniques I have worked out from my practice. The methods that I suggest are quite effective. Even novice gardeners can use them.

Bridges and rings

One of the most destructive is annular damage to the bark of young trees. It occurs, as a rule, through the fault of hungry and toothy mice.

The classic repair method- grafting with a bridge. But she can only experienced gardener... And even then it does not always bring success.

Textbooks are usually full of drawings. The bridges on them stretch upward- therefore, the mice gnawed at the bark at a decent height. But on my site everything happened exactly the opposite. The bark of the tree was damaged at the bottom, at the very root collar. There was practically no room for the installation of bridges-cuttings. But I still tried. The bridges did not take root, and the tree died.

This incident taught me a lot, prompting me to look for other ways. I began to treat ring injuries by applying bark from a healthy branch of another tree. He did it in early spring, at the beginning of intensive sap flow. The result is excellent, and the first time.

Donor and patient

This is how I act. First, I harvest a piece of a branch, preferably- without branching, and necessarily- with healthy bark. This is a donor.

I clean the damaged area of ​​the “patient tree” to healthy wood, treat it with a weak solution of ferrous sulfate. I outline the height of the insert, retreating 0.5-1 cm up and down from the most distant places of damage. I cut out a rectangular sheet from any dense material, the width of which is equal to the height of the insert. The length should not be less than the diameter of the trunk of the tree being repaired.

This sheet serves as a template for sizing the bark insert to be transplanted. Having wrapped the donor branch with this template, I draw circular cuts along the ends to the wood. I take it off and make a longitudinal incision. Having wrapped the wound with a template, I make circular incisions and remove the remnants of the bark along the edges of the damaged area, exposing the cambium.

I apply the bark from the branch prepared for transplantation to the place of damage. If necessary, add another piece of bark until the surface is completely covered. I tightly tie the “patch” with a strip of film (it is better to use polyethylene, then it will be easier for you to control the accuracy of the bark adherence). To protect from sunlight, I cover the strapping with white foil or paper.

Unilateral non-annular cortical lesions are usually easier to treat. The wounds are cleaned, covered with garden pitch. And they calmly wait for them to heal. But keep in mind that when large area damage in their place may appear hollow. Such wounds are best treated in the manner I have described. Only the curly bark cutter will be of a different size and configuration.

Look at the photo at the top of the page. On it- young apple tree. The picture was taken in the spring of the following year after repairs carried out by an annular insert of two-piece bark (under the branch) and a shield bark (at the root collar). Groove on the front of the flap- not a blemish at all, but the result of a mismatch of the bark throughout the entire thickness. Below, the surface of the lesion is completely covered with new bark.

Now imagine what a tree with cuttings-bridges would look like. Awkward, right? And after the method that I use, in a year or two, even no traces will remain on the tree. So choose what you like best! Two years after this repair, the mice completely gnawed the bark of the tree above the insert. May ask- what kind of gardener is he who leaves his pets to be devoured by rodents? But what do you want to do? The site is far from home, in winter it is abandoned, as they say, by chance. One way or another, and the tree I had to reluctantly cut down. And what do you think? Longitudinal and transverse sections of the bark were found to be completely clean, without any deterioration. By the way, in this way you can not only heal the tree, but also reduce its growth. There is information from experts that a change in the polarity of the bark of the trunk in an area with a height of 10-20 cm contributes to a decrease in the height of the plant. Cut out the bark of the required size with a ring and make an insert “feet up”, that is, aligning the upper edge of the ring with the lower edge of the cutout.

Tree without trunk

I am often asked: what to do if a tree trunk needs to be removed? The need for such an operation is most often associated with freezing or sunburn bark of a young seedling. Such incidents are not uncommon, especially in winters with frequent thaws. The bark can also freeze slightly due to the excessive care of the gardener.- when the tree is overfed, and it does not have time to prepare for winter.

The sun can dry the young stem of the seedling. Considering this, it is better to play it safe: when forming skeletal branches, leave one at the bottom, in reserve. In winter, it will be covered with snow and will remain in any case. And you can remove it after the tree begins to bear fruit.

Usually the trunk is damaged above this branch. In this case, it is she who will be the basis for the formation of the crown.

We cut the trunk with a well-sharpened garden hacksaw. It is not worth using pruning shears, even if the tree is very "thin"- bark crumples from it. By the way, in order to avoid this incident, you can also wrap the bark with adhesive tape, which will protect it from delamination. Now, stepping back a little, we cut the trunk into a ring.

At a short distance from the trunk, we drive a stake into the ground. It should be opposite the branch we left. We install a spacer bar between the stake and the tree. To prevent the branch from breaking off when straightening it, we firmly tie the tree to the stake: at the bottom of the branch, placing a piece of dense material so that the bark does not wrinkle. Carefully bending the branch up, bring the bottom to a vertical position and fix it with a garter to the stake. At the same time, the upper part of the branch will also lean towards the stake.

Behind the branch, at a short distance from it, we drive in the second stake. Straightening the branch, we tie it to a new support, just above the old garter. Now we carry out alternate garter- then to one stake, then to another, completely straightening the branch. And we fix its thin upper end in a vertical position between two supports, tying it with a twine twine.

In this way, you can straighten the branch not only in the vertical, but also in the horizontal plane. In this case, the lateral ramifications are evenly straightened in different sides using stakes and twine. Thus, we form the skeletal branches of the tree.

If it was not possible to straighten the branch at the base in one season, you should periodically, with an interval of 2-3 weeks, drag bottom straps... The branch will gradually straighten.

When will the kidney wake up?

Let's consider other cases. If there is no branch below the site of damage, the trunk should be cut into a well-developed bud. Do not forget to tie the escape developing from it to the stake- this will protect it from breaking.

If there are no branches or buds below the damaged area, the trunk must be cut off arbitrarily, to clean wood and covered with garden varnish. And then wait for the awakening of the sleeping kidney (the process can last until mid-summer). It is important not to miss the moment of her awakening. The dormant bud is usually thick and herbaceous. It is weakly attached to the trunk, holding as if at the tip of a needle. Therefore, in the green cone stage, it must be wrapped in a foil in the form of a funnel (under the kidney - tightly, above- free). Then the shoot will be well preserved and will not move away from the trunk. And when he grows up, he should be tied to a stake. In the next season, it will be possible to start forming the crown of the tree.