Before the onset of spring, the trunks of fruit trees are rubbed milk of lime. In addition to everything White color reflects the sun's rays, which avoids overheating during intense sunlight and a sharp drop in temperature at night, especially below zero.

In the spring, the moisture-proof bowl around the tree is covered with dry soil, compost, peat or plant residues, this prevents the rapid evaporation of moisture.

During the growing season, especially during dry periods, fruit trees are carefully and plentifully watered. Watering often, but little by little, is useless. Moisture does not reach the roots, lingering in the surface layer of the earth, on which a crust then forms. To retain moisture around the tree, even before it begins to bloom, it is useful to lay peat, straw manure or grass in a layer of 5-10 cm.

If a tree does not bloom in spring, it must be dug out of the ground, shortened roots and for several days (preferably in the cellar) lower the roots into water or cover them with damp earth. Only after it turns green can it be planted again in the ground.

During the growing season, especially after rain (before the formation of a dried earth crust), the soil around the tree must be finely loosened several times. It is necessary to loosen in May-July, when shoots and fruits are mainly formed. In August and September, the soil is not disturbed, which ensures better ripening and coloring of the fruit.

In autumn, the earth is dug up around the tree to a depth of no more than 10 cm, and between the rows - up to 15 cm. Digging around the tree is carried out only with a spade-fork, which does not damage the roots so much. Even better than loosening, a shallow trench. In summer, loosening the ground is generally not recommended. After the soil dries up in the spring, it is treated with the reverse side of the rake (also in order to reduce moisture loss from evaporation).

To enrich the soil with humus, various plants can be grown under fruit trees. Field peas, fodder vetch, white mustard, buckwheat, phacelia, white clover, multi-flowered chaff, annual ryegrass, etc. are most suitable for this purpose, and lupine on sandy soils.

Sowing material is applied from early July to early August in moist soil. Plants are planted only in spring. In winter this planting material protects the soil from severe freezing and helps to better hold the snow. It is not recommended to grow green manure plants in areas with rainfall below 500 mm, as well as in young fruit plantations.

Vegetables can be grown between newly planted trees, and between dwarf plantings in the case when they have not reached 3 years, and among taller seedlings - up to 8 years. The most suitable vegetables for this purpose are bush beans, peas, lettuce, early cauliflower, kohlrabi, cucumbers, celery, tomatoes, carrots and early potatoes. However, it is impossible to plant vegetables directly under fruit trees.

Fertilizer

The basis of fertilizing fruit trees is organic fertilizers. As a rule, well-packed or composted manure is used; in autumn it is introduced into the soil to a depth of 10-15 cm or over the entire area of ​​cultivation under the trees, sometimes along the diameter of the crowns under each tree. Lighter soils are fertilized annually or every other year, heavy soils are fertilized every 3-4 years. Large doses of fertilizers are applied under weakly growing trees. Instead of manure applied in autumn, often in spring, compost can be used. Dry bird droppings are also used (100-200 g per 1 m 2).

Simultaneously with organic fertilizers, mineral and chemical fertilizers should also be applied to the soil. If green manure plants are also grown under the trees, the dose of manure or compost can be reduced by half.

One tree at the age of 2-3 years requires 12-15 kg of fertilizer; every year the dose of fertilizers increases, i.e. for an eight-year-old tree, it requires 40-50 kg, and older trees with a crown diameter of 6 m consume 120-160 kg of fertilizer.

Mineral fertilizers are used taking into account the reaction of the soil, the age and fruitfulness of the tree. In autumn, when plowing the soil, phosphorus and potash fertilizers so that these substances are already absorbed during the growing season. With the onset of spring, nitrogenous fertilizers are applied. You can also use combined fertilizers in autumn and spring, which gives a tangible effect. During the growing season, nitrogenous fertilizers are applied additionally, and they are applied shallowly into the soil.

In the year when the soil is fertilized with a full volume of compost or manure, the dose of mineral fertilizers is reduced by half. If the trees grow too vigorously, and the shoots do not mature well, the amount of nitrogen fertilizers applied is reduced, and more phosphorus and sulfur fertilizers are added. If previous crops are grown under the trees, the amount of fertilizer applied should be increased according to their needs.

For top dressing of weakly growing trees, it is allowed to use liquid fertilizers during the growing season. Useful, for example, fermented bird or rabbit droppings, diluted in 10 parts of water. You can also use a solution of complete fertilizers that dissolve well in water. These liquid fertilizers are poured into grooves 10-15 cm deep around the circumference of the crown. After the liquid is absorbed into the soil, the grooves are leveled.

Lime is applied to the soil in accordance with its reaction. It is especially necessary for stone fruits; berry crops are less demanding in this respect. It should not be overlooked that calcium fertilizers and manure, as well as superphosphate and chemical nitrogenous fertilizers, should not be introduced at the same time.

With an acute lack of nutrients, when their intake from the soil is somehow limited (waterlogged soil, damaged roots), spraying the leaves with a nutrient solution can be recommended. 400 g of ammonium nitrate with limestone or 500-600 g of urea, 500-600 g of potassium bisulfate and an extract of 3-4 kg of superphosphate are dissolved in 10 liters of water. The most favorable for such spraying is the period after flowering. With a clear lack of nutrients, spraying is repeated one or two more times in 10-14 days. As necessary, such spraying is combined with spraying against tree diseases and pests.

Protection against diseases and pests

The best protection is prevention. If a fruit plants create good conditions and accordingly take care of them, they will not cause much trouble to the gardener.

And if you also provide for everything in order to attract birds as your helpers, then worries will be completely reduced. To do this, it is enough to install bird feeders in the garden for the winter, replenish the feeders with food, and put titmouses and birdhouses for some useful birds so that the birds take the chicks directly to the site. Birds will repay their owners with kindness - they will do useful work: the destruction of pests.

If, nevertheless, any controversial issues arise, you should try to find out the reason and, after consulting with a specialist, make appropriate adjustments to care for the garden and in the fight against pests. Chemicals are used only as a last resort.

Every gardener faces a challenge every year. spring training garden after winter. Trees and shrubs require inspection, as well as the necessary procedures, so that at the end of summer or early autumn you can get the expected harvest, so we will discuss the main stages of garden preparation, as well as talk about problems and their solutions.

Where to start

In early spring, when the temperature is rapidly approaching zero or above zero, we need to do a lot of work to prepare fruit trees and shrubs. Starting with snow removal. Many crops have brittle shoots, so sticking melting snow, the mass of which is not so small, can damage shoots and young branches. To prevent this from happening, you need to walk around the garden and gently shake off the snow on the ground.

After you have removed the snow from the aboveground parts of the plants, you should examine the skeletal branches of trees and tall shrubs. If some of them are bent, care should be taken to build a support. As it, you can use iron bars welded in the form of the letter “Y”, or find a branch like a slingshot of sufficient length.

If the lower branches are bent, then they can be tied to the upper ones. At the same time, it should be understood that it should be tied to skeletal thick branches that will definitely withstand the mass of a sagging shoot. If a similar problem arose with a small shrub, then for a while all the shoots can be tied up in one bunch. When the snow melts, you can trim, or if everything goes well, the shoot will remain in the position in which you secured it.

Next, we need to take care of site humidity. If your garden is located on a slope, you need to create natural obstacles, otherwise the melt water will descend into the lowlands, and the trees and shrubs will lose the necessary moisture.

Important! Melt water collected in a container will help you save on irrigation. Also, this water is soft and contains trace elements, so it is better to save it.

To prevent this from happening, create small shafts of melting snow across the site. So that the flowing water collides with an obstacle, and does not continue its movement along the slope.

Next, you should make sure that if or appears, you have everything at hand. For this check stockpiles of poisons and other chemicals that you used last year to fight uninvited guests. Many of them have a short expiration date, so you can automatically apply an already expired chemical. The effectiveness of such a tool, as you understand, will be close to zero.
After the snow melts, you need to start cleaning the area from plant residues. All leaves, branches, dry grass should be removed, and care should be taken first weeds.

Inspection of fruit and berry crops

After the initial inspection, we proceed to identify possible problems with plants planted in the garden. It is impossible to delay, since the lack of timely intervention will lead to a decrease in yield or death of the crop.

We start with the bark. We examine the shoots and trunk of plants for the presence of scratches, cracks, burns, lack of bark. If there is damage, you need to find out the cause of their occurrence. If they are caused by activities, then various poisons should be prepared in advance. If the problem was provoked by sunburn - we carry out whitewashing.
Cracks may appear on the branches and trunk. It is impossible to leave everything as it is, since a violation of the integrity of the shoot or trunk leads to further damage by pests. To prevent this from happening, you need to properly close the crack. To do this, you should first cut off the dead bark, and then remove the dead wood. If you don't do this and just plug the hole, the dead tissue will begin to decompose, causing rotting. It is necessary to clean dead tissue until living wood and bark appear.

Allow time to dry after cleaning. This will take 1-2 days, after which the "wound" must be treated and closed. Treated with any copper-containing substance, it is best to take or. In the end trouble spot covered with a liquid solution of clay or by special means for putty.

Video: cleaning and treating a wound on a fruit tree

We turn to problems with broken or dry shoots. If you notice that some of the shoots on the tree are too dry and do not have live buds, then you need to take care of their removal. Trim dry branches with a hacksaw or pruner. We cut until we see living tissue. The cut must be even. After pruning, we must cover all cuts so that the tree is not hit.

Separately, it is worth talking about what to do with the hollows formed in the trunk. We will solve the problem in the same way as in the case of cracks. First, we clean the hollow from dead tissues, after which we treat it with copper-containing preparations and completely cover it with cement mortar.

Did you know? The oldest garden in the world is Levens Hall, which is located in the north-west of England. The garden was created in the 17th century, and the trees that were planted at the time of foundation still grow in it.

Spring frost protection

Spring frosts are the most big problem, as they are able to destroy the crop at an early stage. Not only small gardens suffer from them, but also huge plantings, from which products are supplied to many stores. Next, we will figure out whether it is possible to do this.

This frost protection technology came to us from the USA. There, farmers purchase special installations that produce fog. It not only reduces visibility, but significantly increases the air temperature, which saves trees from a sharp drop in temperature. Of course, such plants are not cheap, but if you grow especially valuable crops, which will give a lot of expensive products, then it makes sense to purchase a similar installation in order to solve problems with unexpected frosts for ten years.
Garden fumigation. It should be said right away that this method saves only from small frosts. If the temperature drops below -5 °C, then smoking will not help your plants in the garden.

This is done as follows: at a distance of 4 meters from each shrub or tree, a small “hut” is built, which consists of thick logs and thin twigs for ignition, wet foliage or straw is superimposed on top of the “hut”. After you set fire to such a "structure", it will begin to smoke heavily, causing the garden to fill with smoke. Smoke raises the temperature of the air, so the trees do not suffer from frost.

Video: fumigation from frost using grapes as an example

Of course, the site will have to be fumigated for almost 12 hours, since frosts most often occur at night and last until morning or noon. At the same time, fumigation will not bring pleasure to your neighbors, and especially shy ones can call the fire department. For this reason, fires should be used with caution, especially after the final melting of the snow.

Important! Smoke fires can be replaced with smoke bombs, which can also slightly increase the air temperature.

Bonfires. An open source of fire can raise the temperature, however, as you understand, the same source can cause a lot of problems, because the trees themselves can suffer from fires if flames reach them. At high temperatures, branches and foliage dry out quickly, after which they begin to burn - as a result, you can simply burn your entire garden.
It makes sense to kindle fires only if you have collected a lot of plant debris that has nowhere to go. Then you can dispose of the garbage, and at the same time warm the air a little. At the same time, one should not assume that such a remedy can save from severe frosts, especially in the presence of wind.

Pruning fruit trees and shrubs

Pruning is carried out only before the start of sap flow, that is, until the buds swell. If pruning is carried out later, the tree will suffer greatly, and tree sap will begin to stand out at the cut points. It would seem that everything is clear, there are no problems, however, sap flow begins at different times even in the same region, so you need to know exactly when to prune so as not to cut the plants when the first unformed leaves begin to appear on them.

It is also worth noting that sap flow in some cultures may begin earlier, while in others it may begin later, which causes serious difficulties when working with a large garden.

What is pruning for?

1. To form the crown of a young plant.
2. To remove old shoots that do not give a good harvest.
3. To remove diseased branches that were not cut at the first inspection.

As for the differences in pruning young and old trees.

Young trees need crown formation, as they need to be given the desired look every year in order to eventually get mature tree with a beautiful and easy-to-pick crown.

Mature and old trees need, as their crown has already formed. Annually, old 2-3-year-old shoots are removed, which do not bear fruit well and cause thickening of the crown. As a result, the plant accelerates growth and the formation of new shoots, on which more buds are tied, and as a result, more fruits are formed.

Separately, it should be said that the most productive are those branches that move to the sides. Vertical shoots do not have good yields, and hanging shoots do not really bear fruit at all. This is due to the fact that horizontal branches receive more sunlight, so more fruits ripen on them, which have a better taste.

tree pruning

Did you know? Garden trees familiar to us can boast the longest life expectancy. Homemade can live up to 120 years, and many varieties will grow for 2-3 centuries. At the same time, the life expectancy of the same is only 20 years.

We start by removing all old shoots in early spring. They will die anyway, so we don't need them. Removal should be carried out before the appearance of young branches. During the entire growing season, you need to shorten the upper part of the shoots, since the berries are formed on side branches, and the growth of the main branches upwards reduces the yield. Pinching is carried out after the shoots have reached a length of 90 cm.
Pruning is also carried out if the shoots lie on the ground under the weight of leaves and berries. In this case, the main shoot should be shortened, otherwise the product will begin to rot after contact with the soil.

Top dressing of horticultural crops

We turn to an important topic, which concerns the feeding of plants in the garden. We will talk about all crops, so we will consider those fertilizers that both and shrubs need. various kinds and varieties.

​Related Articles​

Protecting plants from freezing

Typically, such processing of fruit trees stretches over several years, approximately one or two years. If, nevertheless, this is not done, then the pruned tree with a high degree of probability may begin to release a large amount of gum (resin), which will adversely affect its development. If a little new branches have grown over the past year, then it is more correct to prune the tree only to the side branches. Useful video:

Rodents - pests of sleeping plants

​Fertilizer

Garden care in spring: spring work

By following these rules for caring for fruit trees, you can ensure yourself a long-term supply of vitamins for the winter, as well as a healthy and beautiful garden on the site.​

tree pruning

During the first 4 - 5 years, fertilizers are applied to the near-stem circle (its diameter should be expanded as trees or shrubs grow). If the trees are planted in rows, then over time, you need to fertilize the entire planting strip to the aisle. If the trees are planted separately, then top dressing is carried out according to the projection of the crown (the length of the shadow from the crown at noon will show the approximate arial of the root system. Another option is relevant for all fruit- berry crops: 2/3 dose nitrogen fertilizers bring in when you dig trunk circles.​

250 grams of copper sulfate.

Protects the tree trunk from insect pests.

After the snow melts and stable warm weather is established, the fallen leaves are removed and burned.

Garden care in early spring involves a lot of work. One of the important activities is the grafting of fruit crops, which is performed before the buds swell.

Frost crackles outside. The ground is covered with snow. It seems that the trees and shrubs do not need to be taken care of. But that's not the case at all. At any time of the year, plants require attention. Garden care in early spring involves a lot of very important works. Their implementation affects the future harvest and the full development of horticultural crops. But before that, the plants should overwinter. At this time, there are many moments that should not be missed.​

Experienced gardeners strongly advise against cutting a lot of branches from cherries.

tree grafting

How to take care of a garden
The basis of fertilizing fruit trees is organic fertilizers. As a rule, well-packed or composted manure is used; in autumn it is introduced into the soil to a depth of 10-15 cm or over the entire area of ​​cultivation under the trees, sometimes along the diameter of the crowns under each tree. Lighter soils are fertilized annually or every other year, heavy soils are fertilized every 3-4 years. Large doses of fertilizers are applied under weakly growing trees. Instead of manure applied in autumn, often in spring, compost can be used. Dry bird droppings are also used (100-200 g per 1 m2).

​HOW TO MAINTAIN YOUR GARDEN​

Feeding fruit trees in the fall is the best option. The soil before fertilizing should be carefully loosened, without digging into the depths. Organics are applied to a depth of 15 - 20 cm along with phosphorus and potash fertilizers.

Be attentive to the process of fertilizing: fruit-bearing trees will be negatively affected by both a lack and an excess of minerals. For example, the irregularity of such a useful element as nitrogen can affect frost resistance and overall plant growth.

Planting trees and shrubs

Leave for 2 hours Whiten young trees with a mixture based on chalk, under such a solution the bark will breathe freely.

Preventive actions

Choose which solution to apply. Acrylic paint is not afraid of rain - this whitewash is the most resistant. You can use special store-bought solutions and self-prepared ones, with the addition of any adhesive.

A detailed account of the main gardening work required in spring period. Tips for pruning, feeding, planting fruit trees and other necessary work at this time of the year.​

There are several such ways. Among them, grafting with cuttings into a split or behind the bark is popular and often used. They are prepared at the beginning winter period before the onset of severe frosts. Shoots of annual growths are suitable for grafting. The cuttings used for this event have three or four buds. As a rule, stone fruits will be the first, and then pome crops. For young trees, the grafting zone is no more than two meters above the soil surface, and for shoots - one and a half meters from the trunk. Branch cut diameter:​

In early December, attention is paid to young trees and shrubs.

Pruning dry branches in spring

source
Simultaneously with organic fertilizers, mineral and chemical fertilizers should also be applied to the soil. If green manure plants are also grown under the trees, the dose of manure or compost can be reduced by half.​

Before the onset of spring, the trunks of fruit trees are rubbed with lime milk. In addition, the white color reflects the sun's rays, which helps to avoid overheating during intense sunlight and a sharp drop in temperature at night, especially below zero.​

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Garden care in spring: basic steps, techniques, videos, photos

Nitrogen fertilizers are best applied in parts in spring and in the first half of summer. Their introduction in the second half of summer can cause a second wave of shoot growth or delay the growth of the latter and the maturation of wood. Such trees will not have time to prepare for winter, and even with slight frosts, the unripe shoots of trees will freeze slightly, which can cause the death of trees.

​More accurate fertilizer application data is shown in the table.​

Garden care in the spring is a mandatory prevention of pests and disease control.

First work in the garden

2.5 kg of lime is diluted per bucket of water;

Spring work in the garden - prevention of plant diseases and a guarantee of a good harvest

- for stone fruits - 3 cm;

In order for them to winter well, it is necessary to follow the warming of the near-stem circles of plants. As a heater, you can use snow, which is distributed under the trees, around the bush and compacted. It will protect against frost and rodents. Throughout the winter, the hilling of plants with snow continues.

In the first days of April, the entire strapping is removed from the boles of trees. After they are carefully whitened with lime. For this purpose, you can use both water-dispersion or water-based paint, and mortar. The main thing is that the trunk and the beginning of the branches turn out white, the coating does not wash off for a long time and allows the bark to “breathe” freely. To do this, substances such as PVA or casein glue are added to the main component of the mixture, so that the whitewashing of fruit trees in the spring is more durable. You can also use green or laundry soap, milk or clay. All these tools ensure reliable adhesion of the solution to the base.​

Whitewashing - protection of horticultural crops

How to whitewash trees

​Fruit Trees Post Series:​

One tree at the age of 2-3 years requires 12-15 kg of fertilizer; every year the dose of fertilizers increases, i.e. for an eight-year-old tree, it requires 40-50 kg, and older trees with a crown diameter of 6 m consume 120-160 kg of fertilizer.​

The moisture-proof bowl around the tree is covered in spring with dry soil, compost, peat or plant residues, this prevents the rapid evaporation of moisture.

1. Doses of fertilizers depend on the fertility and composition of the soil in your area.
2. Caring for fruit trees in the fall is the key to a long and comfortable life of fruit plants for many years to come. Therefore, garden care should begin from the very beginning of its laying and throughout the life of the plants.

Process fruit and berry crops with special preparations at least 3 times:

How to whitewash fruit trees

• Half a liter of copper sulfate;
• ​Healthy blooming garden, which brings a rich harvest, largely depends on proper, high-quality care, especially in the spring. The time of awakening of all living things is important and troublesome for gardeners. Perform all work depending on weather conditions and climate zone.​
• - for pome crops- 5-6 cm

Garden care in winter and spring provides for various activities. And each of them has its own deadlines. In winter, attention is paid to protecting trees from rodents. Mice and hares can damage the bark of trees. Annual and biennial crops are especially affected. The tree trunk is protected in autumn. He is wrapped around various materials. At the end of winter, drugs are used that will scare away rodents. They are placed around trees.

• In spring, trees need “medical” help more than ever.
• Part 1 - Sea buckthorn
• Mineral fertilizers are used taking into account the reaction of the soil, the age and fruitfulness of the tree. In autumn, when plowing the soil, phosphate and potash fertilizers are usually applied so that these substances are already absorbed during the growing season. With the onset of spring, nitrogenous fertilizers are applied. You can also use combined fertilizers in autumn and spring, which gives a tangible effect. During the growing season, nitrogenous fertilizers are applied additionally, and they are applied shallowly into the soil.

During the growing season, especially during dry periods, fruit trees are carefully and plentifully watered. Watering often, but little by little, is useless. Moisture does not reach the roots, lingering in the surface layer of the earth, on which a crust then forms. To retain moisture around the tree, even before it begins to bloom, it is useful to lay peat, straw manure or grass in a layer of 5-10 cm.

• In the first year after planting, the trees are watered 4-5 times per season at the rate of 20-30 liters per tree with each watering. In subsequent years, watering can be less frequent, as needed, and the amount of water can be increased by 10 - 20 liters per each year of the tree's life.
• ​Content:​
• Before vegetation (swelling of the kidneys);
• Joiner's glue is added - 200 grams, so that the solution on the tree lasts longer.

Work in the garden begins with the release of planting branches from melted snow, if there was an abundance of precipitation at the end of winter. From the spring sun, the snow becomes loose and heavy, it can easily break thin branches. To avoid this, shake it off. If the branches have already sagged and fallen, build supports to support them.​

Spraying trees and shrubs in the garden

All operations are performed on the day of vaccination. The junctions of the cutting with the tree branch are wrapped with insulating tape, which can be removed three or four weeks after the operation or left until next spring.

When to Treat Trees

With the onset of March, a hot time for gardeners begins. This is a responsible period. With the beginning of snow melting and with the first streams, work on home gardens or summer cottages. How to organize garden care in spring? What to do in the first days of March? During this period, the snow becomes loose. It gradually melts, and there is no need to speed up this process. The exception is snowdrifts, which completely cover the bushes. So that the snow does not damage the branches when melting, it is raked, freeing the plants.

• After cold weather, wounds often appear on their bark due to the destructive effects of rodents, cold winds and frosts. And these wounds need to be treated in time. To this end, they are rubbed down to healthy wood with commercial garden putty based on nigrol (gear oil). Then disinfection is carried out using copper sulphate at the rate of 300 g of the main component per 10 liters of water. Next, another layer is applied - garden pitch. If it is required to repair the hollows that have appeared in the trees, then they should be well cleaned of dust, filled with gravel and poured with a cement-based mortar. Effective spring care for fruit trees involves this procedure.
• ​Part 2 - Tree Pruning​

How to spray fruit trees

In the year when the soil is fertilized with a full volume of compost or manure, the dose of mineral fertilizers is reduced by half. If the trees grow too vigorously, and the shoots do not mature well, the amount of nitrogen fertilizers applied is reduced, and more phosphorus and sulfur fertilizers are added. If previous crops are grown under the trees, the amount of fertilizer applied should be increased according to their needs.​

1. Crown care during the period when productive and lean years alternate and the growth of annual shoots decreases. Moderate rejuvenation: a) pruning branches that bend in a semicircle; 6) pruning thick branches
2. The first spring watering is carried out before the tree blooms, during flowering or immediately after it.
3. ​1.5 More on the topic:​

7-10 days after flowering.

tree nutrition

Whitewash based on manure and lime:

Timing of fertilizer application

The following advice is relevant for sloped areas. So that the melt water lingers, and the flood does not erode the soil, build shafts of snow across the slope.

Garden care in early spring is not only about ensuring the beautiful growth of planted plants. At this time, young trees and shrubs can be planted. This event is carried out before bud break. In the spring, planting material of crops is planted that has insufficient winter-hardy qualities. After planting, they provide constant soil moisture.

Dosage of organic and mineral fertilizers for the garden

The main condition for this event is the air temperature. Do not work if it is cold outside. In the event that the thermometer recorded readings below minus ten degrees Celsius, trees should not be cut. Features of climatic zones make their own adjustments to the care of the garden in the spring.

Effective protection of trees is not complete without such a procedure as spraying from various kinds of pests. It should be planned for early spring, but carried out at an outdoor temperature of at least + 5 ° C. The first time after winter, plum, apple and pear trees are sprayed in mid-March, before buds appear on the branches.

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Caring for fruit trees in the fall.

To feed weakly growing trees, it is allowed to use liquid fertilizers during the growing season. Useful, for example, fermented bird or rabbit droppings, diluted in 10 parts of water. You can also use a solution of complete fertilizers that dissolve well in water. These liquid fertilizers are poured into grooves 10-15 cm deep around the circumference of the crown. After the liquid is absorbed into the soil, the grooves are leveled.

• If a tree does not bloom in spring, it must be dug out of the ground, shortened roots and for several days (preferably in the cellar) lower the roots into water or cover them with damp earth. Only after it turns green can it be planted again in the ground.

young garden care

The second - before the June fall of the ovaries,

pruning

By starting to properly care for a young garden, you can provide your trees and shrubs with optimal conditions for growth and fruiting, and provide yourself with a cozy cellar with an abundance of vitamins for the winter. The main work on caring for fruit trees is done in the fall, however, some attention should be paid to fruit plants during the summer season.

• Early spraying of trees with Bordeaux mixture or blue vitriol, urea, (urea) will save plants from many problems. There are other means of processing: chemical, combined, but the above are effective and one of the most budgetary. Which drug to choose, the gardener decides.
• 1 kg of lime and manure;

When to prune fruit plants

Stock up on melt water - it is rich in useful trace elements. To do this, the containers need to be filled with snow and added as it melts.

Fertilizing fruit trees and shrubs

One of the important agricultural practices is the control of pests and diseases. Garden care in early spring is the most right time years for this. Chemical treatment of plants will require practical skills and knowledge from gardeners. Without plant protection, it is impossible to grow a healthy and high-grade crop.​

• Competent pruning is carried out before the buds swell. It is performed on sunny days at zero air temperature.

Spraying fruit trees

​Part 21 - HOW TO GROW A KING - APPLE

Lime is applied to the soil in accordance with its reaction. It is especially necessary for stone fruits; berry crops are less demanding in this respect. It should not be overlooked that calcium fertilizers and manure, as well as superphosphate and chemical nitrogenous fertilizers, cannot be introduced at the same time.​

During the growing season, especially after rain (before the formation of a dried earth crust), the soil around the tree must be finely loosened several times. It is necessary to loosen in May-July, when shoots and fruits are mainly formed. In August and September, the soil is not disturbed, which ensures better ripening and coloring of the fruit.

Watering

Third, if the summer was dry and watering is necessary - 2 to 3 weeks before the fruits of summer varieties of apples and pears ripen.

1. The main function of pruning fruit trees is the formation of the future crown, its shape and location of skeletal branches. In this case, certain conditions must be observed.​
2. ​Start the first treatment when the temperature has reached 5 °C. During this period, spraying will destroy successfully overwintered pests.
3. 200 grams of copper sulfate;

With the advent of spring, not only vegetation wakes up - rodents and pests are ready to become more active. Inspect existing bait poisons, prepare new ones if necessary.​

Protection of fruit trees from pests and diseases

Spraying fruit and berry crops can be divided into three stages:

1. Fruit-bearing trees are cut first, the flower buds of which are ahead of leaf awakening. This action includes the removal of:
2. ​Part 22 - For garden fertilizer - Urea

In case of an acute lack of nutrients, when their intake from the soil is somehow limited (waterlogged soil, damaged roots), spraying the leaves with a nutrient solution can be recommended. 400 g of ammonium nitrate with limestone or 500-600 g of urea, 500-600 g of potassium bisulfate and an extract of 3-4 kg of superphosphate are dissolved in 10 liters of water. The most favorable for such spraying is the period after flowering. With a clear lack of nutrients, spraying is repeated one or two more times in 10-14 days. As necessary, such spraying is combined with spraying against diseases and pests of trees.

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Caring for fruit trees throughout the year

In autumn, the earth is dug up around the tree to a depth of no more than 10 cm, and between rows - up to 15 cm. Digging around the tree is carried out only with a shovel pitchfork, which does not damage the roots so much. Even better than loosening, a shallow trench. In summer, loosening the ground is generally not recommended. After the soil dries up in the spring, it is treated with the reverse side of the rake (also in order to reduce moisture loss from evaporation).

The terms of watering fruit trees fall in September - for the autumn growth of roots, and later, winter, for charging the soil with moisture.

The main - skeletal branches should depart from the trunk at an angle of 45 - 60 degrees. That's why correct pruning fruit trees involves the removal of extra branches that do not meet this condition.​

The use of special preparations before flowering will help protect the buds, cope with pest larvae and fungal diseases.

Mix the indicated components in 8 liters of water, leave for about 2 hours.

The snow has melted - start cleaning the garden. Collect old leaves and other debris, get rid of weeds if they appear.​

Before the swelling of the kidneys;

- damaged, frozen shoots;

This is due to the fact that it is here that most often various animals hide during the winter. harmful organisms. It is useful for a gardener who has not yet gained experience to know how the trees are properly sprayed, in the sense of what kind of work needs to be done and how to apply the solution to the surface of the trunk.

​Part 23 - Caring for fruit trees throughout the year​

Protection from diseases and pests

​Deep rejuvenation of the crowns of old trees a) cut angle at the apple tree; 6) in a pear; c) apple tree after pruning. 1 - a branch going to the side at the end of a shortened branch; 2 - a small, horizontally running fruit-bearing branch on the upper branch; 3 - a thinner branch, obliquely going towards the lower branch

Protecting the garden from pests and diseases must be carried out regularly by all existing methods - agrotechnical, biological and chemical.

In each tier of the crown, skeletal branches should be evenly spaced around the trunk. If there are two branches, the divergence angle between them is 180 degrees, and if there are three branches, then it is 120.​

The following treatment is needed to destroy insects and fruit rot that have appeared.

Clay-based whitewash solution:

Even before the snow has completely melted and the trees “wake up”, choose a dry day and whitewash.

before flowering;

- branches growing inside the crown;

When spraying fruit trees, special attention is paid to places on the trunk where cracks are visible.

Planting seedlings, grafting, etc.

The best protection is prevention. If you create good conditions for fruit plants and take care of them accordingly, they will not cause much trouble to the gardener.

To enrich the soil with humus, various plants can be grown under fruit trees. Field peas, fodder vetch, white mustard, buckwheat, phacelia, white clover, multi-flowered chaff, annual ryegrass, etc. are most suitable for this purpose, and lupine on sandy soils.

Set up pest traps

If you planted a seedling in early spring, then pruning fruit trees in the fall will greatly facilitate the further formation of the crown of plants. Autumn seedlings can be cut in the same autumn in a year. Optimal conditions for pruning fruit and ornamental trees and shrubs - the period of sleep, that is, when the plant has not yet awakened in early spring or has already reduced its vital activity late autumn. At this time, the plant tolerates pruning injuries more easily.
Remember that it is not recommended to spray trees during flowering.

Mix 1 kg of oily clay in 10 liters of water;

Before work, prepare trees with damage: clean the trunk with a brush, remove dead bark, at the same time pests that have overwintered and survived in it will be destroyed. Growths, lichens are also cleaned off. Cover all open cracks with garden pitch. Whitewash after the treated areas have completely dried.
A week after flowering.

- branches that interfere with the development of the crown.
First of all, with the onset of spring, it is necessary to ensure proper spring care for fruit trees. To do this, cleaning their trunk with a brush will help. Only then can lime mortar be used. By the way, it must be fresh, which means that you need to cook it on the same day. Otherwise, it will not act on insects as it should, and will not harm them, and burns may remain on the tree itself. To treat the garden from pests, you can also use Bordeaux mixture, iron sulfate, as well as preparations such as Hom and Topaz.
Pruning features include fruit trees in the spring, a few of them should be highlighted. So, in a newly planted pear, it is always necessary to remove branches during this period, which, being too close to the trunk, create an acute angle. This must be done in order to ensure the growth of seedlings, which is possible only under obtuse angle from the trunk. When cutting branches, it is important to evenly distribute them around the entire circumference.
And if you also provide for everything in order to attract birds as your helpers, then worries will be completely reduced. To do this, it is enough to install bird feeders in the garden for the winter, replenish the feeders with food, and put titmouses and birdhouses for some useful birds so that the birds take the chicks directly to the site. Birds will repay their owners with kindness - they will do useful work: the destruction of pests.
Sowing material is applied from early July to early August in moist soil. Plants are planted only in spring. In winter, this planting material protects the soil from severe freezing and helps to better retain snow. It is not recommended to grow green manure plants in areas with rainfall below 500 mm, as well as in young fruit plantations.​
Spray with vitriol before flowering and a month before fruit ripening.

Spring care for fruit trees: photo and video

1. Fertilizing with mineral and organic fertilizers begins from the second - third year after planting, if the necessary doses of nutrients were initially added to the planting pit

   Spring pruning of trees and crown formation

   Garden maintenance includes spring top dressing trees, contributing to the nutrition and improvement of soil quality. All the necessary elements for plant growth are obtained through mineral fertilizers, so do not forget about them every year. Organic: compost, peat, manure is enough to use once every 2-3 years. Usually, in the spring, the soil is fed with nitrogen, and in the fall, manure, phosphorus, and potassium are used.

Spring apple tree care includes pruning and pest control

Spring work on caring for an apple tree should not be postponed until the onset of warm days. Many procedures must be carried out before the snow melts.

Whitewashing and treatment of the trunk of an apple tree in spring

Whitewashing tree trunks is needed to protect the bark from sunlight. It is held from February to mid-March, until the snow has melted. At a later date, staining the trunks will not bring any benefit to the tree, but will only decorate the garden.

Of the wide variety of whitewashes, I prefer garden acrylic paint. Its protective effect remains for a long time - it does not collapse and does not crack, and also - it is not washed off by rain. I use it only for apple trees older than 7 years. To enhance the effect, I add copper sulfate to the paint. Such a composition will not only protect the apple tree from sunburn, but also help to fight pests wintering in the bark.

For young apple trees with immature bark, I prepare a mixture for whitewashing from lime, manure and clay in a ratio of 3: 1: 1. I mix all the components well and dilute with water to the consistency of thick sour cream. The solution protects against burns and disinfects the bark, but needs periodic renewal.

After winter, the trunks of apple trees are often damaged by rodents. I cover small wounds with garden pitch immediately after the snow melts in March. In areas gnawed down to wood, I vaccinate, trying to use as many cuttings of winter-hardy varieties as possible.

I remove the exfoliated bark during frost cracks, and carefully cover the sections with pitch. Over time, the wounds completely heal. On extensive areas of damage with freezers, I vaccinate with a bridge.

Pruning apple trees in spring

Spring pruning times may vary depending on availability. You can start it at a temperature not lower than minus 10 degrees Celsius, and continue until the first buds appear on the branches.

I carry out sanitary pruning before the start of sap flow. I cut out all the branches damaged in winter. I use a manual pruner and a sharpened garden file for these purposes.

In young apple trees, I form a crown in spring. I cut shading and growing under small acute angle to the stem of the branch. I leave a distance of 40-70 cm between the skeletal branches. From the branches of the second order, I leave those growing to the sides, and cut out the rest.

The optimal height of the apple tree is the one at which it is convenient to take care of it and harvest it. I define desired height in the following way. I put a stepladder near the tree, stand on the top step and stretch my hand up. If the tree is taller than my hand, I lower the crown. To do this, I shorten the top of the conductor and the upper branches to the level I need. I process slices with garden pitch.

Prevention of apple trees from diseases and pests in spring

Many pests and pores of diseases easily tolerate wintering and begin to develop actively with the advent of spring.

To combat crawling pests, in particular the flower beetle weevil, I have successfully used trapping belts. I install them with the appearance of the first thawed patches in the near-trunk circle so that they fit as tightly as possible to the stem.

I do the second treatment after the flowering of apple trees, when the first ovary appears. During this period, I use more gentle preparations - Fitoverm, Akarin, Lepidocid. Spraying is carried out in dry calm weather in the morning. The first results of the drug action can be seen 5-6 hours after treatment.

Vaccinations of an apple tree in spring

Best time for grafting apple trees - May, when active sap flow begins. I use cuttings of promising varieties harvested in winter. The survival rate of such vaccinations is very high - up to 90% of cuttings.

Spring fertilization under apple trees

If, when planting an apple tree, a sufficient amount of fertilizer was applied to the fertile soil, it is not necessary to additionally feed the tree for five years. An exception to this rule is the cultivation of apple trees on poor soils - sandstones and drained swamps.

I feed trees older than five years in early April. I use urea, rotted manure, wood ash. In the soil at the crown projection site, I make 20-25 cm deepenings with a pitchfork or a crowbar. I pour a handful of fertilizers into each hole and fill it with soil from above. For one tree I spend about half a kilo of urea or 5-6 buckets of manure, so that top dressing is enough for two to three years.

I never spread fertilizer on the surface of the soil. They will not bring any benefit to the apple tree, but the grass will grow by leaps and bounds. Also, do not lay manure on top of the snow. From such actions, snowmelt will only slow down, and weeds will get food.

Additionally, during the growing season, I only apply fertilizer when the tree signals a lack of nutrients. The first signs of trouble are visible before flowering - during this period I do top dressing. I am preparing a solution in a 100-liter barrel of water, where I add a bucket of mullein, a kilogram of superphosphate, 300 g of potassium sulfate. The solution is infused for a week. I water this mixture of apple trees 4-5 buckets for each tree.

I re-fertilize after flowering. I change the composition of the solution - I don’t add manure, but I double the amount of superphosphate and potassium sulfate. These components have a beneficial effect on the formation of the ovary and the future harvest of apple trees.

Watering apple trees in spring

Before the leaves bloom, the need for watering apple trees is compensated by the moisture accumulated in the ground after snowmelt. Further, the trees need to be watered, especially if the yard is dry, warm weather. I water young trees every five days, adults - less often, but more abundantly.

After watering, harrow the soil under the apple tree so that a crust does not form. I mulch the near-trunk zone with a thin layer of straw or peat to retain moisture longer. Sawdust is not suitable as a mulch - they will make the soil acidic. A thick mulch layer is also unsafe - rodents, pathogenic bacteria start up in it, the pores of fungi multiply.

Protection of the apple tree from recurrent frosts

Spring frosts will not harm apple trees if their buds have not yet blossomed. To protect leafy trees from frost, I use sprinkling. To do this, in the late evening, I abundantly irrigate the entire crown with water from a hose through a fine sprayer. Freezing drops at night give their warmth to young leaves. You can use this method only in calm weather, otherwise the effect will be exactly the opposite.

With the threat of frost during flowering, to protect the apple trees, I resort to the old proven method - smoke. In the garden I lay out heaps of straw, peat, foliage, dry grass. I drive a stake into the center, and pour a little earth on top of the pile. In the evening I pull out the stake - the hole will serve as a chimney, and set fire to the heaps.

Apple tree transplant in spring

Before the foliage blooms, apple trees can be transplanted if the planting site was initially chosen unsuccessfully. Young trees (up to three years old) are not difficult to dig and plant in a new place. It is necessary to water the soil well in the near-trunk zone before digging up a tree, and after planting - to carry out a short pruning of branches. So the apple tree will quickly recover after transplantation and start growing.

Things are more complicated with the transplantation of apple trees at the age of 4-5 years. Along the perimeter of the crown, you need to dig a groove and gradually deepen it to 50 cm. When the depth of the ditch is sufficient, they dig in an earthen ball and cut the central core of the root. A tree is transplanted with a clod of earth. After planting, it is watered and the branches are cut radically, leaving only the central conductor and a few skeletal and secondary branches.

If for some reason the apple tree had to be uprooted, a new seedling can be planted in its place in the same year - the diseases of the old tree will not be transmitted.

Choosing a seedling for planting

You can plant young apple tree seedlings in early spring, as soon as the earth allows you to stick a shovel into it. During this period, a sufficient amount of moisture is retained in the soil for the tree to take root.

Before buying, seedlings with open roots should be carefully examined for the presence of rotting roots, signs of disease and pest activity, damage to the bark and branches. If the planting of seedlings has to be postponed, their roots should be wrapped with a damp cloth and, in this form, the trees should be stored in the basement for no more than 3-4 days.

In spring, the apple orchard needs special attention. It is necessary not to miss the time and carry out a number of activities in time - cut the crown, heal wounds, vaccinate, feed the trees. It is in the spring that the prevention of diseases and pests is most effective. Having done everything correctly and on time, you will definitely get a good harvest of bulk apples.

If you dream of growing big garden with fruit trees, our article will help you find answers to all your gardening questions. You will learn how to properly plant seedlings, care for them depending on the season, and prune fruit trees in the spring to maintain yields.

Planting garden fruit trees

Beginning gardeners often make a common mistake, namely, planting horticultural crops incorrectly.

Note: Dig a hole, insert a seedling into it and sprinkle it with earth - far from all that is needed for rooting and growth. In order for the culture to take root, you need to choose the right place, prepare the site and carry out the transplant in accordance with all the rules.

Planting horticultural crops is best done in early spring when the soil warms up. In some cases, it is allowed autumn planting, but in this case, the seedling needs to be looked after more carefully so that it has time to take root and get stronger by winter.

Proper landing is carried out as follows(picture 1):

• The seedling is inspected for damage and all dry or injured roots are removed;
• The site has been prepared since autumn: deep digging is carried out, weeds are removed and organic fertilizers are applied (best of all - rotted manure);
• Make holes for planting. In areas with good drainage you can just dig a hole in the ground, but if the soil is too wet, it is better to land in small mounds;
• When preparing the pit, the fertile soil is folded separately. Later it is used to fill the hole.

Picture 1. Correct fit horticultural crops

It is important to make a hole right size. Straightened roots should fit freely in it. After placing the seedling in the hole, the roots are sprinkled with fertile soil, watered and compacted. When the water is absorbed, you can water again. In the future, the seedling must be observed in order to fertilize in time, water or spray the crop from diseases and pests.

From the video you will learn how to properly plant fruit trees.

Seedling care

In order for the garden to be fruitful, and young plants take root faster, they need to be constantly looked after.

Basic care for seedlings includes(picture 2):

1. Caring for trunk circles includes the gradual expansion of the treated soil around the trunk. Because the root system grows rapidly, every year the space is increased, surface loosening is carried out in the spring and deep digging with a pitchfork in the fall. In summer, weeds are removed from the trunk circles, which can interfere with the development of the seedling.
2. Watering plays an important role in the rooting of seedlings. In a temperate climate, it is enough to water 2-3 times a week, but if a drought has begun and there is no natural precipitation, moisture is applied daily (mainly in the evening).
3. Fertilization especially important when planting on soils with low fertility. Nutrients, getting into the soil, are absorbed by the roots, and the tree grows more actively and begins to bear fruit earlier.

Figure 2. The main stages of caring for fruit crops: pruning, whitewashing trunks, watering and installing supports for branches

Young seedlings must also be inspected for symptoms of disease and pest larvae. This will allow timely spraying to maintain the viability of the crop. Pruning is also carried out annually to form a crown and stimulate the formation of new shoots.

Features of caring for fruit trees are described in detail in the video.

Fruit trees for the garden: names and photos

Popular garden trees distinguish many types. Unfortunately, not all of them are suitable for growing in temperate climates. For example, citrus and subtropical fruits can only be grown in warm southern regions.

The most common are these types of fruit trees and fruit shrubs.(picture 3):

• Pome fruits (pears, apple trees, quince, irga and mountain ash);
• Stone fruits (cherries, apricots, peaches, plums, etc.);
• Walnut (walnuts and hazelnuts, almonds);
• Berry (strawberries, wild strawberries, currants, gooseberries, raspberries, etc.).

Figure 3. Popular types of horticultural crops: 1 - pome fruits, 2 - stone fruits, 3 - nut fruits, 4 - berries

Also in the gardens you can grow wild rose, sea buckthorn, mulberry, honeysuckle and hawthorn. The variety of species is very large, and thanks to the work of breeders, it was possible to develop varieties that are resistant to temperature extremes and diseases.

Varieties

One of the most important conditions successful cultivation horticultural crops is right choice varieties. All bred crops undergo a long-term check of compliance with the soil and climatic conditions of the region. Therefore, for each climatic zone, its own varieties are provided.

The best are considered winter-hardy varieties, as they take root well in any climate, and a decrease in temperature does not affect the yield.

Among the best winter-hardy varieties are:

• Apple trees Antonovka, Moscow Grushovka and Medunitsa;
• Pears Lada, Chizhovskaya and Cathedral;
• Plums Zayatnaya, Hungarian Moscow and Blue gift.

There are also winter-hardy varieties of cherries (Molodezhnaya, Memory of Enakieva) and sweet cherries (Bryansk pink, Tyutchevka, etc.).

Fertilizers for planting fruit trees

The acclimatization of seedlings also depends on the fertilizers that were applied during the planting process.

Note: When preparing the hole, the top (fertile) soil layer is removed and not mixed with the rest of the soil removed from the hole. This land is later used to fill in the space inside the hole.

Traditionally, organic and mineral fertilizers are used during planting. From organic fertilizers rotted manure and compost can be used. Fresh organic matter cannot be used, since the release of ammonia during decomposition can provoke root rot.

From mineral fertilizers, when planting, you can use any means, except for preparations containing nitrogen. Such top dressing reduces the rate of plant establishment. Nitrogen-containing preparations are applied later, when the seedling is acclimatized.

Fruit tree care in early spring

Basic garden care in spring includes pruning. First of all, shoots and branches damaged by frost are removed.

Preventive spraying is also carried out until the kidneys awaken. Most often, solar oil is used for this. It does not harm the seedling, covering it with an oily film that blocks access to oxygen for the larvae.

Care rules

The basic rules of care include whitewashing and pruning (Figure 4). After inspecting the trunks and branches, all damaged parts are removed. It is also necessary to remove the shelters and inspect the trunks for damage. If there are wounds on the trunk or branches, they are cleaned of the remnants of the bark, treated with copper sulfate and covered with garden pitch.

Whitewashing trunks performs several functions. Firstly, it destroys the larvae of pests that have overwintered under the bark. Secondly, it protects the bark from sunburn.

Figure 4. Garden care rules in spring

In addition, in the spring, complex mineral fertilizers are applied to the root circles, which will help the plants maintain productivity and obtain the necessary nutrients from the ground.

Peculiarities

Among the features spring care outside the garden, preventive spraying against pests can be distinguished. They are carried out in several stages. The first time the treatment is carried out during the dormant period, when sap flow has not begun in the trunk and branches. The second time they start processing during the flowering period, using special chemicals. All these activities help protect crops from diseases and pests.

In autumn, they not only harvest, but also begin to prepare the garden for winter. Winter procedures should not be neglected, since their quality determines how successfully the crops endure the cold season and retain their ability to bear fruit.

Care rules

In autumn, horticultural crops require such care (Figure 5):

• After harvest tree trunks are completely cleaned of leaves, fruit residues and dry branches. Any organic matter that is on the surface of the soil will start to rot and can cause a fungal infection.
• Under the root contribute potassium and phosphate fertilizers. This will help the plants gain strength before winter. Nitrogen-containing fertilizers are not recommended, as they will activate growth and prevent plants from entering a dormant state.
• After sap flow stops carry out cutting. But if the trees were not damaged, this point can be missed, since not all cultures normally tolerate the removal of branches just before the onset of cold weather.

Figure 5. Autumn garden care and preparation of plants for winter

It is also advisable to re-whitewash the trunks with lime and spray the garden with insecticides.

Peculiarities

The main purpose of autumn care is to prepare trees for winter. Having collected the entire crop, be sure to clean the tree trunks from leaves and dry branches, loosen the soil and apply potash and phosphorus fertilizers.

Autumn pruning is carried out only when necessary (for example, if diseased or damaged branches were found) so as not to stress the plant before winter. Mandatory care also includes whitewashing trunks and warming young crops. They are wrapped with insulating material, and the trunk circles are covered with mulch. This will help protect the plants from frostbite.

Also, baits for rodents are laid out around the territory, which can damage the bark in winter.

Pruning fruit trees in spring: scheme

Pruning in the spring, carried out according to correct scheme, will help to accelerate the growth of crops, maintain their yield and help prevent the development of diseases.

Note: Pruning can be carried out in winter, but only in the absence of severe frosts. If the temperature drops below -8 degrees, it is impossible to remove the branches, since the resulting wound can lead to the death of the entire plant.

There are several types of pruning that can be done in the spring.(picture 6):

• Sanitary involves the removal of all damaged and diseased branches. It is this procedure that is carried out in early spring, in the process of inspecting crops after winter.
• Anti-aging helps to maintain the yield of old specimens. In this case, old branches that no longer bear fruit are removed. In their place, new shoots with young fruitful shoots are formed.
• Pruning for crown formation more suitable for young seedlings, branches on which grow randomly. The main purpose of the procedure is to form a crown correct form and free the central part of the trunk from extra branches to enhance fruiting.

Figure 6. Types of spring pruning

For pruning use only sharp gardening Tools: secateurs and special hacksaws, with which you can make an accurate and even cut.

When to start pruning

Regardless of the climatic zone, the time when to start pruning in the spring depends on temperature and weather conditions.

Note: The basic rule is to remove branches when the tree is at rest. So it will experience less stress, and the wound will heal faster.

As a rule, spring pruning begins in March. At this time, the movement of juice has not yet begun, but the kidneys are already ready to wake up, so the wounds will heal quickly, and the plant will not experience much stress.

Trimming Rules

The basic rule of spring pruning is to determine in time the moment when the tree is still sleeping, but the buds are ready to open. So you can do several important conditions: remove excess or damaged branches without stress to the crop, and speed up wound healing.

The main rules include::

• For work, only sharp garden tools (sectors and hacksaws) are used so that the cut is even. The hacksaw that you use for cutting should not be used for construction or other work.
• Pruning is preferably carried out in warm, calm weather so that the cut point does not damage cold air and wind.
• After the procedure, the cut is covered with garden pitch, and the trunk is whitewashed with lime.

By following these simple rules, you can easily maintain the viability of trees, renew old plants and activate the growth of young ones.

Pruning fruit trees in winter

Contrary to popular belief, in winter, trees are not only possible, but also necessary to cut. The only contraindication is hard frost. If the air temperature drops below -8 degrees, the branches should never be removed. The resulting wound will take a very long time to heal, and the plant may die.

However, winter pruning has several important advantages. First, the tree is at rest and does not experience much stress. Secondly, branches devoid of leaves are much easier to process and inspect, so the cut can be made more accurate and even.

The cut must be covered with garden pitch to protect healthy tissues from hypothermia or damage.

Pruning fruit trees in winter: video for beginners

Since winter pruning has some features, certain rules must be followed to carry it out.

If you have never removed branches in winter before, we recommend watching a video that will help you carry out the procedure correctly, while maintaining the productivity and viability of the crop.

Grafting and regrafting is one of the main stages in the care of horticultural crops (Figure 7). Vaccination is a way vegetative propagation fruit crops. A seedling grown from seeds, in most cases, does not retain varietal characteristics, so it is grafted (a bud or cutting is transferred from another crop). After fusion, the gardener receives a full-fledged varietal tree.

Figure 7. Features of vaccination and re-vaccination

Revaccination has much in common with vaccination, except for one significant difference. A cutting is implanted into the trunk with buds formed from another variety or even a plant. As a result, the main tree will develop and bear fruit separately, and a full-fledged shoot will grow at the place of regrafting, which will bear the fruits of its variety.

Note: With the help of regrafting, it is possible to successfully grow crops that, due to climatic or soil conditions, cannot be cultivated traditionally.