Lining for internal works fastening. How to fasten the lining: methods and types of fastening

Various materials can be used for surface finishing. They are selected based on their characteristics, properties and, of course, cost.

One of the common options for cladding surfaces is lining. However, to use it, you need to understand how to attach the lining to the wall.

In this article, we will take a closer look at the installation methods, the advantages and disadvantages of each option.

Ways of fastening lining

Mounting the lining on the walls is best done with the help of a crate - a frame made of wood. To do this, all the bars of the crate, both in the horizontal and in the vertical plane, must be set exactly.

Even minor mistakes can eventually lead to depressions and bulges that will be visible on the walls.

After the installation of the crate is completed, the lining is fixed. Below you can see the scheme of the crate for surface finishing.

Keep in mind that if the lining is used for facing surfaces in the bath, the material must first be treated with antiseptics.

The installation of the lining will not depend on the method of fastening. For walls and ceilings, the work will be the same. There are two ways to place boards:

Vertical. With this method of placement, work starts from one of the nodes. The first board is fixed with a groove outward. The next bar is inserted into the previous one. Upon completion of fixing the board with the help of a level, the evenness of its placement is checked.
Horizontal. With this placement, the spike of the board is directed upwards, this allows water to roll down the finish. Such installation begins from the ceiling.

Do not fasten the lining close to the ceiling and floor, leave gaps

After all the boards are installed, insert into the groove of the finish panel small plot board, which is nailed with a hammer. This trick will allow you to tightly connect all the planks and prevent cracks or holes from appearing.

When installing the lining near the floor and ceiling, you need to leave a small hole of about 2 cm. This will protect against sudden temperature changes and provide additional ventilation. If this is not done, after a certain time, the boards may swell. After finishing, the cracks are covered with a plinth.

Regardless of the fastening method chosen, the first and last plank is fastened with small-headed nails.

The remaining panels can be attached in the following ways:

using screws, screws or nails,
clasps. This is the name of the clamps, which have a design with a special holder holding the spike of the board,
construction stapler.

You can choose any mounting method. But keep in mind that the board is first nailed to the middle beam of the crate and only then along the edges. Then the evenness of the placement is checked using a level, after which the board is attached to the remaining bars of the crate.

Fastening with nails

This method is one of the simplest and cheapest, but it is not able to provide a long service life of the structure. When hammering, a nail can damage the panel, which will significantly reduce the strength of the fastener. To avoid this, you can use a punch or pre-make holes in desired area panels.

For one board standard sizes you will need about 6-7 nails. Such fastening will affect the appearance of the finish, so cracks and other defects will remain at the place of driving. But in some situations, this method of fastening is the only possible solution.

For such work, galvanized nails with a length of about 6 mm are used. They are carefully driven into the groove of the board and hammered. The caps are hammered in with the help of a doboynik, this will allow you to easily install the next plank.

Fastening with self-tapping screws

This method is used for buildings where appearance walls don't really matter. Often you can find the use of this method for building baths.

But high humidity and sudden changes in temperature can cause the fasteners to dry out, further deteriorating the appearance. This can be prevented by treating the finish with special antiseptics.

For prevention, it is better to process the boards every three months.

Self-tapping screws are sufficiently high-quality fasteners, so if you need a long service life of the finish, their use can be considered the best solution.

To carry out such fasteners in the boards, you will need to first make holes. Their diameter should be equal to half the thickness of the fastener.

Self-tapping screws are screwed into the board with a screwdriver. They must enter as deep as possible. To hide the place of fastening, you can use a wooden pin or grind the surface.

Stapler fastening

The staples must be inserted at a 45° angle. If the insertion procedure was performed correctly, the subsequent bar insertion procedure will proceed without complications.

Fastening with clamps

Clamps will allow you to provide hidden fasteners for almost any finish.

At the same time, the fixation will be strong and guarantee a long service life.

Installation of lining with the help of such devices will achieve the following advantages:

With the right choice of fastener size, you can install discreetly and guarantee its strength.
Clamps are made of high-carbon steel, which allows them to withstand high levels of moisture and sudden changes in temperature for a long time. This allows you to use this method of fastening in bath rooms.

Clamps with a tongue height of about 4 mm are purchased for mounting eurolining of a standard profile, and 6 mm for fixing a block house. To finish 1 m2 of surface, you will need about 20 clamps.

With this method of fixing, the plate is put on the spike of the first panel and attached to the crate with nails or self-tapping screws.

There are three holes for fixing, but only two can be used. It is better not to mount the lining on one nail, as it can be pulled out.

Screwing screws is best done with a screwdriver. This will greatly speed up and facilitate the process.

Horizontal lining installation

Therefore, basically with horizontal placement, the boards begin to be fixed from the top of the wall. The first panel is installed with the groove down directly under the ceiling. Next element fastened with the first comb into the groove of the previous one.

According to this scheme, the installation of all boards is carried out. The final plank is cut to width and inserted using a pry bar or nail puller. A small hole near the floor is hidden with a plinth.

As you can see, lining can be fastened different ways. The choice depends only on your personal preferences and knowledge. The work is quite easy, so professional help is most likely not required.

Sheathing of walls with clapboard on the crate
One of the popular options for cladding surfaces is lining. However, to use it, you need to understand how to attach the lining to the wall.

Modern lining is a beautiful finishing material that is very popular. Clapboard is successfully used as part of interior solutions for living rooms, for decorating building facades and even for cladding the walls of saunas and baths. Therefore, many are interested in how to fix the lining correctly, so that this process is easy, takes a minimum of time, and allows you to achieve several goals at once.

What goals can be achieved by lining the walls with clapboard

It should be noted right away that the lining on the wall can perform not only a decorative function. If you mount the finish in an appropriate way, it can immediately solve a number of side problems:

When located on the outside of the wall, you can bring the dew point beyond the surface level and get rid of problems such as dampness, freezing, avoid mold and fungus.
If you fix the lining on the frame, this will make it possible to mount insulating materials inside and thus save heat better.
By mounting the lining directly on the wall, you can simultaneously save space and provide vapor barrier, provided that modern protective films are used.

Thus, by properly finishing the walls with wooden clapboard, they can not only be made beautiful, but also ensure the performance of various additional tasks. There are several general recommendations on how to fix the lining.

Everyone can choose the method that is most convenient in terms of qualifications, speed of work, as well as financial investments in finishing.

Unqualified mount

The easiest way to fix a wooden lining on the wall is to nail it. It is very simple and even a beginner will cope with such work. The process is as simple as possible:

wooden lining is cut into strips of the appropriate length,
carefully arranging the elements, they are simply nailed right through the front side,
nail heads are flush with the lining surface.

So you can mount a wooden lining on almost any wall. Both on the frame and directly on the surface, which is very convenient in wooden houses. If you work with self-tapping screws using the “new settler” kits, you can also design a concrete wall in this way.

The method, despite its simplicity and speed, has a lot of disadvantages:

Nail heads or screw heads will be visible. Therefore, the neat appearance of the finish is violated.
In rooms with excessive humidity, metal caps can rust. This causes unsightly streaks, as well as discoloration of the lining around the fastener point.

Therefore, the method of fastening with nails or self-tapping screws through the surface is used very rarely.

Nailing with disguise

The second simple method of fastening with nails or self-tapping screws through the front part can provide a neat appearance, but has a limited range of applications. Work looks like this:

drilling is done in the lining,
fixing nails are hammered into the hole or self-tapping screws are twisted,
the tongue is clogged, which masks the mounting point,
the excess tongue is cut off and the surface is sanded.

Thus maintaining a great appearance wooden surface. However, the method has limitations:

When cutting the tongue and grinding the surface, damage is formed, so the appearance of the lining with paintwork will be spoiled.
The best results are obtained if you need to fix the lining either without finishing or treated with impregnations. Mounting points are easy to make completely invisible.

Despite the simplicity, this method of fastening is used very rarely, because it requires a lot of time for preparatory and final work.

How to make the mount invisible

To properly fix the lining on the wall and completely hide the location of the fasteners, several methods are used:

Nails or screws through the groove.
Fastening can be done through the shelf on the lining profile.
Excellent performance shows fastening with a stapler using staples.

When working through a groove, it is best to work with upholstery nails, since the layer of wood there is thin and easily splits. In this case, fastening with self-tapping screws is quite problematic, since when you try to tighten the groove deeply, it most likely breaks.

Working through the profile shelf is easier. It is best to use this method for Euroline lining or similar, which are distinguished by a large shelf surface. Both self-tapping screws and nails, as well as fastening with a stapler, are excellently used. When mounting the lining, the next strip completely hides the fasteners of the previous one.

financially costly way

For convenient work with wooden lining, you can use special kleimers. This is a fastener into which a lining strip is inserted. As a result, we get several advantages:

the strip has no risk of damage, since the clamps only hold it,
you can work quickly enough, because the kleimers can be fixed in any way - with nails, screws, a stapler,
You can act on any surface, both on the frame and on the wall directly.

However, the method is somewhat costly. Kleimers are more expensive than nails or self-tapping screws, in addition, there are inconveniences if they are bought too few or too many.

With the help of special fasteners it is very easy to work. Kleimers provide speed and convenience, but require surface preparation. The wall or frame should have as even a surface as possible, since the clamps in this case are ideally located and do not cause any installation difficulties for the performer.

The described methods work great both on the wall and when attaching the lining to the ceiling. When working, neither the location of the strips nor their length matters, so you can easily create various patterns. For example, by combining vertical, horizontal and inclined arrangement, or by using a different color or width of the lining. Properly done, the finish will delight for many years with its appearance and excellent performance.

How to attach the lining with clamps or self-tapping screws to the wall
How to fix the lining to the wall correctly? What are the features of using self-tapping screws, kleimers, staplers?

How to fix lining on the wall

How to fasten the lining correctly: preparing the walls, methods of fastening to the frame, finishing the ceiling

For interior decoration of walls and ceilings, lining is often used. It looks nice and will last a long time. When working with her, almost no one has any difficulties. The lining is made from natural raw materials, which, accordingly, makes it expensive.

When choosing a material, you need to choose from class "A" or "Elite". Wooden lining of such classes has no knots and defects. by the most the best option there will be building material from Siberian larch.

Sectional lamella

If there is not much money, then they choose from classes "B" and "C". In this case, tinker with styling. This is due to visual defects - when laying, you will need to decide how to cut off the extra parts of the lining. You can calculate the amount of eurolining needed for sheathing the room in online calculator lining.

Wall preparation

A crate made of timber is installed on the walls. Even if it is a house made of timber or a log house, it is still necessary to install a crate. This will hide the smallest defects in the walls and laying the lining with your own hands will be easy. The ventilation gap is also taken into account. It allows you to avoid the appearance of fungus, mold and dampness between the lining and the wall. Also, wood decay can be avoided with the help of a special coating - this is described in detail here. The beam is used with a thickness of 20-25 mm. The timber is fixed vertically at a distance of 40 cm, although if it is planned to place the lining vertically, then the crate is installed horizontally.

Fasten the beam with self-tapping screws. If the clapboard will sheathe the kitchen, bathroom or bath, then the timber is attached to galvanized hardware.

It is possible that the beam will be slightly different in size, then wedges are placed under it. All this is done for an absolutely perfect frame surface, which, by the way, can be checked with a level. Now you know how to make a crate for lining.

Methods of fastening to the frame

Now begin to install the slats. If the length of the lining slats is greater than the attachment point, then cut off the excess. The saw should be well sharpened and with fine teeth.

The lining is fastened with a groove down so that the spike is at the top. Thanks to this, moisture will not get into the groove. Below, between the first row, the lamellas and the floor leave a small ventilation gap. They begin to fasten the lining from the corner of the room. Each next lamella is fixed in the groove of the previous one. All this shows the evenness of the laying of the lining. Fastening the lining to the wall is carried out with nails or kleimers.

Kleimers

Kleimers are special staples. They are also called clamps or hidden clamps. When buying such staples, always check their compatibility with lining slats. The lining is attached to the kleimers in the following sequence:

Clamping sequence

Clamps are inserted into the groove of the already laid lamella and attached to the timber with self-tapping screws.

Kleimels are made of galvanized iron. The set consists of 100 or 200 pcs. The kit also includes self-tapping screws or galvanized nails. Nails are used to secure the kleimel to the beam, although it is better to buy a kit with self-tapping screws.

For one square meter lining will need 20 kleimers. When buying, special attention is paid to the elasticity of the clamp.

Kleimers on slats

This technology for attaching lamellas is long and laborious. But, if all preparatory work performed correctly, the result will be pleasing to the eye. After all, such fastening does not limit the expansion and shrinkage of the tree, you can not be afraid of splitting the lamellas.

If you decide to fasten the car with nails, then you should know what nails to nail the lining with.

Galvanized nails

Fastening the lining to the wall is also carried out using galvanized nails with a small hat. Nails are driven in one row into each board. The fastening method is the most reliable, but it spoils the look of the lining, and can split the lamella.

thin nails

When using thin nails, the lamellae are fixed from different sides through one. The fastening method is complicated, it is not as reliable as the fastening method with galvanized nails. Requires skill, but it turns out less marriage.

Now you know how and how to fix the lining correctly.

Ceiling finish

When finishing the ceiling, you can divide the room into several color zones or make it striped, matte or glossy, or a single color dark or white. Apply lining with a clearly marked seam or seamless.

White color visually expands the room.

Clapboard ceiling trim

Clapboard ceiling lining

Buy the widest possible lining. From such lamellas there will be more trimmings, but it will be more beautiful.

Before sheathing the ceiling, they make the same crate as in the case of wall sheathing. If the ceiling is concrete, then the timber is attached to the dowels. To install dowels in the ceiling, holes are drilled with a perforator with a drill of 6-8 mm in diameter.

Before starting work, peeling plaster is removed. The beam is used with a section from 30×30 to 50×50. Additionally, a beam is attached along the edges at a distance of 0.1 from the walls.

If clapboard is sheathed on the ceiling of rooms with high humidity, then they use a galvanized profile for drywall and self-tapping screws to it.

And how to nail the lining to the ceiling?

Lining fastening scheme

Final works

After installation is completed, the lining is varnished. Lacquer is chosen based on specific conditions. Therefore, before buying, you need to consult a specialist. Although you can just paint the lining with drying oil or stain.

At the end of the finishing work, you can cover all the joints with decorative corners.

How to fix lining on the wall
In our today's article, we will look at how to properly fix the lining, how to prepare the walls, as well as the main methods of fastening

More than half of the owners country houses prefer to produce interior wall decoration using lining. And this is not surprising: lining is an excellent material that gives the home an attractive appearance. In addition, it is quite easy to mount it, and if necessary, you can do it yourself.

Finishing clapboard indoors - the usual way to make the interior country house cozy and practical.

Lining laying directions

Today, manufacturers offer several types of lining. It can be wood, MDF or plastic. Wooden lining - the most environmentally friendly type of finishing materials, giving the house coziness and comfort. In addition, the tree always compares favorably with its appearance.

Horizontal clapboard trim makes the room visually wider, but lower - therefore, this method of laying the clapboard should be used in large rooms.

Getting started with this type of finish, first of all, it is necessary to determine the direction along which the material will be attached. So, there are several features when choosing a direction:

When fastening the lining vertically, the room visually decreases, but becomes higher.
Horizontal mounting allows you to visually make the room wider, but lower.
Laying the material at an angle (diagonally) avoids negative visual effects and looks more sophisticated, but requires more financial costs and work skills.

When installing the material, if necessary, you can combine all three directions of laying. This will give the house originality and individuality.

Lining fastening rules

If the wall of the house is made of wood, has a flat and smooth surface, then you can mount the elements directly on it. In all other cases, in order for the wall decoration to be of high quality and durable, it is necessary to use a crate.

When the direction is determined, you should purchase necessary material and tools. For vertical or horizontal fastening of the lining you will need:

Clapboard finishing technology.

The technologies for horizontal, diagonal and vertical lining laying are slightly different from each other, so it is necessary to consider each option separately.

Laying the crate for fastening elements

Sheathing technology.

The crate is made of even, well-dried wooden slats with a cross section of at least 40x20 mm. Before starting work, all slats must be treated with an antiseptic solution to avoid mold and decay.

Work begins from the farthest corner of the room from the entrance. In the corner, using a plumb line, the first rail is installed strictly vertically. The rail is fastened to the wall with plastic dowels and long screws with a pitch of about 50 cm. When fastening, it is advisable to use wooden spacers.

In the opposite corner of the room, a second rail is mounted in a manner similar to that described. At the top and bottom of the wall, both slats are connected by two well-tensioned cords, which will later serve as a guide for attaching horizontal slats in the upper and lower parts of the wall.

According to the position of the ropes, horizontal rails are mounted near the plinth and under the ceiling. The next horizontal rail is attached 50 cm from the bottom. You can determine the horizontal position of the mount either with a cord stretched between two corner rails, or with a rule inserted between the horizontal rails. In the same way, all subsequent horizontal slats of the crate are attached.

Installation of lining elements

Technology of installation of lining elements.

When the installation of the crate is completed on all walls, you can attach a wooden lining. As a rule, work always starts from the left corner of the room. First of all, you need to prepare the material. This requires each of its elements to give the desired length. With the help of an electric jigsaw or a fine-toothed saw, the lining is sawn off in such a way that its length is 0.5-1 cm less height walls.

Then the first element is attached to the crate with a comb in the corner. Fastening is usually done with finishing nails, hammering them into the crest of the element to each lath of the crate. In addition, you can also fix the material with screws, but here you need to pay attention to their thickness: screws that are too thick can lead to cracking of the lining. With this in mind, when using screws instead of nails, you must first drill holes for fasteners with a drill.

Subsequent elements of the lining with a comb are mounted in the grooves of the previous ones and are attached to the crate by the bottom flange of the groove. At the same time, the ridges hide the caps of the fasteners. When fastening elements with nails, it is also necessary to take into account some features. For example, in order not to damage the front side of the finish, it is only necessary to drive a nail into the comb with a hammer to the middle, then it is finished off with a blunt core or punch.

Instead of nails or screws, you can also use special fasteners that do not damage the lining elements - kleimers. Kleimers are metal staples that are put on the groove of the element and nailed to the crate. In this case, you can use both small cloves, and screws, and staples construction stapler.

In similar ways, all elements of the material are mounted on the wall. Occasionally, it is necessary to control the verticality of the installation using a plumb line. The last element of the lining is cut to the desired width and nailed to the corner rail.

From the element to be attached to next wall first, cut off the comb: in this way, it will close the fastener caps on the last element of the previous wall. All finishing material is laid in a similar way.

Rules for fastening the lining in horizontal and diagonal ways

Installation of lining elements in a horizontal way occurs according to the following algorithm:

The crate on the walls is not attached horizontally, but vertically.
Elements can be mounted in two ways: from top to bottom or from bottom to top. Mounting from the bottom up is more convenient, as it allows you to freely see the grooves into which nails are driven in or clamps are attached. But this method has two serious drawbacks:

the last element of decoration may require trimming in width, which will look ugly under the ceiling,
when viewed from below, gaps will be visible between the elements.

Therefore, it is advisable to start the horizontal laying of elements from the ceiling. At the first element, the comb is cut off, then it is fixed on the rails. The following parts are inserted with a comb into the grooves of the previous ones and nailed in the same way as the method already described. If after installation a small gap remains near the floor, it can be closed with a plinth.

The diagonal fastening of the lining is usually used for finishing ceilings, but can also be used for arranging walls. Here the crate is fastened in such a way that the slats make a right angle with respect to the lining elements.

Before starting the installation, all the ends of the elements, as well as their length, are cut according to the template. Fastening starts from the corner, first in one direction, and then in the other. If the lining is used to finish the ceiling, it is advisable to use kleimers: this way the ceiling will look more decorative.

Installation of wooden lining can be successfully done with your own hands. Similarly to the described methods, other types of lining are also fastened. If you take your time and do the work with due attention and accuracy, the lining of the walls will last long time and will delight with its aesthetic appearance.

How to fix a wooden lining with your own hands?
Instructions on how to fix a wooden lining. Possible laying directions and differences in the installation work in these ways. Rules for laying the crate and mounting elements of the lining.

Nowadays, the range of finishing materials is very diverse. High-quality and beautiful products can be selected for both outdoor and internal works. Separately, it is worth highlighting such a popular material as lining. Today we will consider in detail how to fix it correctly.

Peculiarities

Premises furnished wooden materials, look incredibly cozy and hospitable. That is why many buyers opt for such design options.

For such an attractive performance, you can use the most different coatings , from special wood panels to wood grain laminate. However, one of the most popular and sought after are recognized different types lining. This material is not uncommon - it is easy to find in specialized stores.

High-quality lining made of wood is distinguished by an impressive service life. According to manufacturers, such products can serve without problems from 15-20 years, without losing their original appearance.

The durability of the lining largely depends on proper care by the owners of the home. Such coatings should be treated from time to time with special antiseptic compounds. They are necessary to protect the natural material from the appearance of fungus or mold. It's no secret that wood is a favorite "dish" of various insects, but with the use of special impregnations, such problems can be forgotten.

As a rule, lining is processed by similar means at the stage of its manufacture. However, over time, the material will still need independent care. Fortunately, the stores sell a lot of suitable products and varnishes that will provide the lining with excellent protection from negative external factors.

Advantages and disadvantages

Lining is rightfully recognized as one of the most popular materials. Consumers choose this finish because it not only has a harmonious and natural appearance, but also a number of other positive qualities.

The main advantage of lining is its environmental friendliness. Currently, not every finishing material can boast of such quality. The lining does not emit dangerous and harmful substances, even if it is at high temperatures.
The lining can be given a perfectly smooth and pleasant to the touch surface.

To install such wooden panels, it is not at all necessary to involve professional teams of finishers. Fastening such materials can be done on your own, following simple instructions.
Many consumers note the pleasant woody aroma inherent in such finishing materials. Thanks to this property, an indescribable atmosphere is created in the room.
High-quality lining boasts resistance to mechanical damage and strong shocks. It is not so easy to break or damage.
The lining is not a easily soiled material, however, if contamination appears on its surface, then it will not take much effort to remove them.

Worth noting are the excellent thermal insulation properties lining. A room in which such a finish is present will always maintain a comfortable microclimate.
The lining also has soundproofing properties. Thanks to such materials, the audibility of extraneous annoying noises in the room is significantly reduced.
Under the lining, you can hide unpresentable elements such as wires and various communications.

This finish can be used not only in a suburban or country house, but also in an ordinary city apartment.
Clapboard can finish not only the walls, but also the ceiling. Ceilings designed in this way look very aesthetically pleasing and neat.

Of course, lining has its drawbacks. You should also familiarize yourself with them if you want to refer to this material in the design of your home.

To install the lining often requires a frame. Most often to such mounting structures you have to contact when it comes to finishing the ceiling. Also, you can’t do without a frame if the walls in the room are too uneven and have noticeable differences.

The disadvantages of lining include the fact that it is not fireproof. Of course, given quality can be corrected if the material is processed by special means, but even they will not make such raw materials 100% non-flammable.
Over the years, lining can change its geometric parameters. Most often, such deformations occur if the owners improperly looked after the finish or mounted it incorrectly.
Lining cannot be called a cheap material. Moreover, many consumers consider it quite expensive.
It was mentioned above that the lining must be periodically looked after, treated with special protective compounds. Most consumers consider this feature to be a disadvantage.

Kinds

There are several types of lining. They are made from different materials and have different performance characteristics. Let's consider them in more detail.

Wooden

The most popular is rightfully recognized lining made of wood.

The process of its manufacture is quite complex and takes place in several stages. Due quality of such finishing material can be achieved only if you strictly adhere to a certain technology:

first, the edged board is prepared;
after that it is dried in a special industrial way;
further work is carried out on cutting grooves;
then the wooden lining is carefully polished;
at the end of all production processes, the resulting panels are always sorted.

The properties of wooden lining largely depend on the type of wood from which it is made.

Aspen

Aspen boards are distinguished by a light shade. There are practically no resins in their composition. Such materials boast good thermal insulation characteristics, so they are often used for interior decoration.

Aspen lining can also be installed in baths or saunas. Of course, in such cases, one should not forget about the high-quality processing of the material so that it does not rot.

From spruce

As a rule, northern spruce is used for the manufacture of lining. It is quite dense and hard wood. Such finishing materials can decorate not only the walls in the dwelling, but also the ceiling.

Spruce lining is not afraid of dampness and moisture. However, it should be borne in mind that over time it changes its color and becomes darker.

from pine

Pine lining is one of the most common. It is inexpensive, but has excellent quality, so many consumers choose it.

Pine lining is distinguished by a beautiful natural structure, which also becomes darker over time.

from oak

Oak lining is expensive, but this does not affect its popularity. Such a finishing material is not subject to decay and is easy to process.

The main advantages of oak lining are its amazing color and structure. With the help of such decoration, you can transform the interior, making it richer and more solid. Experts say that oak lining must be stained and pickled.

Hardwood

Lining made of hardwood practically does not emit resins and is characterized by low density. Thanks to these characteristics, it can be safely used in the lining of a bath or sauna.

Wooden lining can also have a different cross section.

Standard. Such panels are equipped with a standard thorn-groove locking system. As a rule, the spikes in the lining are always slightly shorter than the grooves. This is necessary so that with a strong drying of the wood, deformation of the material does not occur. Panels with a standard section have good sound and heat insulation.
"Calm". Otherwise, panels with such a cross section are called "collective farmer". They have rounded outside corners. Such materials look very neat and tidy.
Eurolining. Such types of wooden lining have a longer groove, so as a result the surface takes on a completely different appearance.
Softline. Such finishing materials also have rounded bevels and a long groove.

Also lining made of wood is divided into classes.

"AND". This class includes high quality panels. Small knots are sometimes visible on their surface, but they do not fall out. Also on such materials you can find a few small slits and cracks. Clapboard class "A" can be safely used for interior decoration.
"AT". Planks of this class have a length of 1.5 m. On their surface there can be no more than 3-4 knots. Also, these types of lining have small resin pockets and non-through slots. Experts do not recommend the use of such materials for interior cladding.
"WITH". Materials in this class are not of high quality. As a rule, they decorate outbuildings for which design is not so important. In such slats, noticeable knots can fall out, and also there are often through cracks. Their color is far from the standard.
"Extra". Clapboard class "Extra" is an ideal finishing material. There are no defects on the surface of such panels.

metal

Instead of wood, you can use metal lining. Most often to such facing materials apply when you need to arrange the base, which is in conditions of high humidity. Such panels are not afraid of negative external influences and protect the base on which they are installed from them.

Many consumers opt for a metal lining, as it has an almost unlimited service life. She does not require complex and regular care, which speaks of her unpretentiousness.

Metal lining is good because it is presented in a very rich color spectrum. In addition, this finishing material may have a different texture.

advantage metal panels is that they are non-flammable and do not support combustion. Popular wooden coatings cannot boast of such qualities.

Such materials are also environmentally friendly. They do not contain hazardous compounds that are harmful to human health. You can install a metal lining with your own hands. Moreover, this material can be mounted both on the wall and on the ceiling.

plastic

If metal and wooden types of lining seem too expensive to you, then you should look for more affordable ones. plastic options. Such coatings are made of polyvinyl chloride. This material is safe for human health, so you don’t have to worry about the well-being of household members.

As a rule, the width of PVC lining is 10 cm. Similar parameters are also wooden elements. Besides, plastic panels can be used not only for interior, but also for exterior decoration of the home.

Plastic lining is not only monophonic, but also multi-colored. In some shops you can meet even more original materials having interesting prints or patterns. Especially popular today are panels that imitate natural wood.

For exterior finish it is recommended to use a special frost-resistant lining. For its manufacture, special plastic is used, supplemented with the necessary additives. Such a finishing material easily tolerates both low and high temperatures.

Plastic lining for outdoor work cannot boast such a wide selection different colors. Here, as a rule, monochrome versions of soothing tones are used, as well as wood-like coatings.

The advantages of PVC lining include:

heat and noise insulation properties;
fire safety;
resistance to high temperatures;
resistance to mechanical damage;

moisture permeability;
light weight;
democratic cost (especially when compared with natural wood materials);
unpretentiousness.

Plastic lining does not need to be regularly looked after using expensive products. In addition, it is very easy to remove dirt and dust.

Wall preparation

Before mounting the lining (especially if it is wooden), it is necessary to prepare the walls with high quality. After purchase, the lining itself should be placed in a dry room for at least a day. There she must settle down and adapt to room temperature. Only after that you can start cutting the finishing material to give it the desired length. If you neglect this stage of work, the panels will not be tightly attached to each other.

As for the walls themselves, they will need to provide good vapor barrier. To do this, they first need to nail the slats. Their width should not be less than 3 cm. These elements must be nailed in 1 m increments. Then you need to take a film of polyethylene, foil or roofing felt and install it on fixed rails. Small holes should be made at the top and bottom of the vapor barrier to provide better ventilation.

This stage cannot be called strictly mandatory, however, experts recommend using it if we are talking about a room with a high level of humidity from the outside.

Next, you need to build a high-quality crate for wooden lamellas. Reiki with a cross section of 20x40 cm must be screwed with a screwdriver. Keep a step of 40-50 cm (horizontally). Constantly check the correct installation of all parts using the mounting level.

With the help of rails, you can qualitatively level the wall before installing the lining. Thus, the boards will be much easier to attach to the base. In addition, a similar frame should also be assembled in order to ensure that the gap between the overlap and wood trim was ventilated.

If the walls do not have a flat surface, then something additional needs to be laid under the crate. You can also build a crate of greater thickness. For lining, a sheet of plywood, a block of wood or a mounting wedge is best suited. The crate should be fixed with long self-tapping screws and dowel-nails. The lower rails should recede 5 cm from the floor, as there will be a plinth in this area. The same indentation should be followed in the upper part of the structure, since there will also be a plinth, but already a ceiling one.

The crate must be mounted around the door or window openings. Such structures are made not only from wood, but also from metal or plastic.

If you did not install a vapor barrier on the base, then the crate should be mounted directly to the wall. If it is present:

if the rails to which the vapor barrier was attached were fixed vertically, then the details of the crate should be installed horizontally and vice versa;
fastening the crate to the rails, on which the vapor barrier layer lies, must be done with long self-tapping screws.

In the "windows" that appear, insulation should be laid. Experts recommend purchasing mineral wool for this. The insulation should be fixed with polypropylene spar so that it does not shrink over time.

On the insulation, you can lay another layer of vapor barrier. It should be attached with the rough side to the insulating layer.

Tools

For the installation of the frame and wall cladding with clapboard, you must have the following devices:

screwdriver;
perforator with the necessary nozzles;
building level;
hammer;
mallet;
jigsaw;
electric stapler;
wooden corners;
self-tapping screws;
mounting gun;
nails;
profile (for the frame);
staples.

Mounting methods

In total, two main options for fastening the lining are used. They differ from each other in directions. Let's consider them in more detail.

Vertical

The vertical fastening of the lining occurs in this way:

The starting part is installed in the corner. To do this, use nails, which are then hidden under decorative corner. If you don’t have this item, then you can simply “bite off” the hats with side cutters. Hammer nails as carefully and carefully as possible.
Always check if you are doing the vertical laying of the lining correctly - any errors can lead to the fact that the following lamellas will curve more and more.
The fixed part must be attached with clamps. After that, you can proceed to the installation of the remaining lamellas. However, they must first be inserted into the grooves, and only then fastened.
Every 5 elements, it is necessary to check the evenness of the surface using a level and a plumb line.
The final lamella must be sawn to the required dimensions.

Horizontal

To lay the lining in a horizontal way, the following rules should be observed:

In this case, the slats must be fixed, starting from the ceiling. The groove must point down. If the finish looks like a round log, then it should be installed with the groove up to hide the docking points.
Fasten the parts together according to the same principle as with the vertical installation method. It should be borne in mind that for a more reliable fixation, the boards should be lined with dies.
Gradually descending from top to bottom, it will be much more convenient to fasten all the lamellas with carnations. It is very important to hammer them in such a way as not to harm the front side of the lining.

Material Quantity Calculation

When choosing a lining, you need to understand the amount of finishing material that you need. As a rule, the cost of wooden lamellas is indicated in square meters (less often in cubic meters). However, an elementary mathematical calculation in this case will not work, since the quadrature will be influenced by such parameters as the length of the lamellas, the height of the ceilings in the house, the dimensions of the door and window openings.

There are two ways to help calculate the amount of lining.

Intuitive. Following this method, you should calculate the perimeter of the surface area that is planned to be finished with lamellas. From here you need to calculate the dimensions of the openings. Add to the result 10-30% for waste. This calculation method is simple, but not the most accurate.
Mathematical. This method of calculation is more rigorous. To do this, you need to count the lamellas individually, taking into account their length and width, as well as the size of the openings. For calculation, it is necessary to divide the parameter of the surface length by the width of the lamella. So you can determine the required number of lining. As a result of all calculations, it will be possible to obtain a fairly accurate value. In this case, no more than 10% can be left for waste.

If you decide to sheathe the walls in the house with clapboard with your own hands, then you Some simple guidelines should be followed:

During installation, make sure that there are no ugly gaps between the lamellas. You can avoid these defects if you constantly monitor the level of laying the material.
In counts required amount material, do not forget about elements such as doors and windows. You need to build a frame around them. Slopes from the lining can also be built with your own hands. The main thing is to adhere to the correct dimensional parameters.

If you want to refresh the atmosphere, then you need to create various geometric images on the floors with your own hands. To do this, you need to adhere to several options for the layout of the lamellas at once.
In winter, laying lining on the walls is not recommended. It is better to postpone such work until summer or spring so that the material does not undergo deformation.
If you chose a lining for finishing, which has the shape of a rounded log, then you should install it with the groove up. This is necessary to hide the docking of individual parts.

Many users are sure that lining can only be mounted on a metal profile. Of course, such structures can be used, but they are more suitable for those cases where the floors in the room have too strong irregularities and drops.
The diagonal upholstery of the walls with clapboard looks original. It should be made on a frame in which the racks are located at a closer distance to each other.

After installation, the lining will require regular maintenance. To do this, you need a primer on wood, antiseptic compounds, bio-oil, alkyd varnish, antipyrine forming a refractory layer and other similar substances. According to experts, the lining must be processed before its direct installation.
When choosing the right material, pay attention to its class, since it is recommended to sheathe living quarters with some lamellas, and outbuildings with others. Of course, for interior cladding it is best to use the most quality materials extra class.
Stock up on everyone necessary tools. Self-tapping screws should be screwed with a screwdriver, as this will take a minimum of time. However, do not forget about accuracy. Work carefully so as not to damage the finishing material.

Lining - excellent universal material for the final finishing of ceiling surfaces, interior and exterior walls. This upholstery is perfect for finishing. door panels in combination with a similar type of platbands. Regardless of the selected objects for cladding, the panels are fixed every time according to the same pattern.

What is particularly impressive is the ease of working with this material. You can easily deal with clapboard lining on your own.

But first, you should always use study guide. This can be an instruction for mounting the lining with your own hands.

Using instructions

Detailed instructions are one of the best assistants in the process of learning any business. In construction, the prices of professional teams for work are quite high. Doing something yourself is profitable, first of all, from a financial point of view. Especially when it comes to simple processes. sheathing wood paneling belongs to this category.

For better understanding, it is customary to use illustrated tips. In this case, a photo of the installation of the lining is suitable as an additional visual material. And of course, one cannot ignore the numerous video materials that the Internet is so rich in.

It is important, using all the educational materials, to study all the details, to master the technology. Then, being already confident that no problems will arise, you can safely begin work.

Stages of sheathing

Do-it-yourself step-by-step installation of lining with your own hands consists in performing the following steps:

Carry out preparatory work. The lining is prepared for installation. impregnated special formulations such as antiseptic and flame retardant. For further processing, stain or paint of the desired color is used.

After the paint composition has dried, a crate of wooden slats or timber with a section of 5x5 cm is mounted on the selected area. The fastening step of the frame elements should be 10-20 mm less than the width of the insulation plate. Screws or self-tapping screws are used to fasten the rails.

The position of the rails or bars can be vertical or horizontal. The future arrangement of the skin depends on this.

The variant of the installation position of the lining depends entirely on the desire to visually change the appearance of the room. On this, the initial order of fastening the frame is built.

Vertical cladding increases the height of the room. Do-it-yourself horizontal installation of lining makes the room seem more spacious.

In the cells formed, when using a beam, heat-insulating plates are arranged. Upon completion of work, the entire working area is covered polyethylene film, fixing it on the bars with thin slats. In the future, they will be the element to which the lining itself will be attached.

The final stage is the finishing with wood panels. The room is getting finished.

Technology correct installation lining along the walls is distributed over several steps and is clearly observed during the entire period of work.

The process goes in the following order:

wall fastening of panels is carried out from the ceiling to the floor line.
lining is attached to wooden bars or slats. The grooves are placed down. For evenness of the panels, a lower fit is made using a trim wooden board. This method eliminates the formation of gaps between the skin and the floor.

The difference between fasteners and their characteristics

For fixing, fasteners are used. The spikes of subsequent skin elements are inserted into the grooves and fixed with specially selected parts. It can be staples, clamps or ordinary nails and screws. Each of these elements of hard fixation has its own meaning.

Nails hammered into grooves are among the neatest, almost imperceptible type of fastening. Kleimers are characterized as high-quality fixation. Staples require the use mounting gun, since fastening occurs by shooting.

Panel Alignment Reception

The last board of the lining is adjusted in width with a hacksaw. Lay along the line of its docking with an angle decorative plinth. It is attached to liquid nails. It turns out a very beautiful appearance.

A similar finish with a plinth is carried out along all the lines of interface of the surfaces of the walls with the ceiling, along the wall corners and ledges.

The order of the ceiling sheathing

Do-it-yourself installation of lining on the ceiling is carried out in a manner similar to wall decoration. The difference is only in the initial order of the panels.

The layout and fastening start from the window and lead towards the opposite wall. Thus, the shadows arising between the facing elements are hidden.

Photo of lining installation

Finishing the room with wooden clapboard ennobles the interior, improves the heat and sound insulation properties of the walls. Sheathing can be done independently or seek the help of professionals. In order to quickly and efficiently carry out work, and the surface of the cladding was smooth, beautiful and served for a long time, it is important to know how to fix the lining.

Sequence of finishing works

The first step is choosing a wall finish. The lining can be fastened in two ways:

along the walls;
By crate.

The first option is preferable in wooden house, since wood tends to expand or decrease in size, "breathe". If the base material is the same as the coating, their joint oscillatory motion will not cause multidirectional stresses leading to deformations and the appearance of defects on the surface.

In brick and concrete houses, before fixing the lining, a crate is mounted, which can also serve as a frame for laying thermal insulation. In the space between the coating and the wall, it is convenient to place corrugated hoses for electrical wiring, heating pipes.

The second is the correct measurement of the premises and the calculation of materials. This will help you avoid unnecessary expenses or waste time on additional trips to buy missing components. The amount of lining is determined based on the area of \u200b\u200bthe walls, excluding openings. The length of the ceiling and floor plinth is equal to the perimeter of the room. To decorate the corners, you need curly strips. Materials are purchased with a margin of 10-15% for marriage or other defects.

Wood is a living structure, sensitive to fluctuations in humidity and temperature.

Before starting work, it is unpacked, allowed to "get used" to new conditions, treated with antiseptics and fire retardants, if there is no factory preparation.

Before mounting the crate or directly attaching the lining to the wall, prepare the surface - clean, level, close the gaps, cover with antiseptic compounds. This will protect the structure from the appearance of mold and fungi.

The third step is the installation of the crate. Most often it is made of wooden bars with a section of 20x30, 40x50 or more. The thickness of the element depends on whether the insulation will be laid under the lining. A ventilation gap is left between the thermal insulation layer and the coating, which prevents the accumulation of condensate.

The pitch of the frame is 40-60 cm, the direction is perpendicular to the finishing boards. The space between the bars should tightly fit insulating roll or board material. For residential areas, this is usually mineral wool, outside, foamed polystyrene foam or other polymers are more often used. They are not afraid of moisture. Before fixing the lining, perform vapor barrier and waterproofing. A film or membrane is used that allows the liquid to evaporate, but does not let it pass in the opposite direction.

Geometry is controlled by bubble or laser level. Dowels or construction nails are used as fasteners for the crate.

Fasteners for lining

Profile strips can be positioned vertically, horizontally or obliquely. In dry rooms, the direction of the board is chosen arbitrarily, consistent only with design idea or your preferences.

In places where humidity is high or water can flow into the gaps between the planks, the boards are installed either vertically or horizontally so that the spike is directed upwards.

Then the liquid will not penetrate through the joint.

Fastening the lining is carried out using fasteners, the following methods are distinguished:

nails;

self-tapping screws;

Kleimers;

Staples.

Nails

The fixation must be reliable, and the material must be firmly held on the frame. It is desirable that the fasteners be invisible and not succumb to corrosion in a humid environment. These requirements are met by finishing nails, the cap of which has a cylindrical shape, and its diameter is slightly larger than the rod. The surface of the hardware is covered with zinc, brass, copper or bronze, they are not afraid of water.

The length of the pins is 20-50 mm, the cross section is 1.2-1.8 mm. The cap diameter is 1.6-3.4 mm. The nail easily enters the wood without splitting it. With a doboynik it is sunk into the thickness of the material.

Specialized equipment for hammering nails - pneumatic gun. It allows you to quickly, efficiently, without spending great physical effort, fasten the lining on a vertical surface and ceiling.

The length of the nail should exceed the thickness of the profile board by 2.5-3 times. Most often, hardware from 50 to 60 mm is used. They are hammered with a hammer with a cone-shaped end, or homemade devices from a bolt or center punch. You can nail the bar through the middle of the element, obliquely from the longitudinal tongue or from the side of the groove into the protruding lower shelf.

Kleimers

Kleimers - staples made of spring steel or galvanized iron with a tongue for the board and 3-4 holes for nails, screws or staples. The element is inserted into the foot and attached to the frame with hardware. From the front side of the finishing surface, the connection is absolutely invisible.

Kleimers are selected taking into account the thickness of the lining, the larger it is, the more powerful the fasteners should be. The amount of presser foot lift varies from 2 to 5 mm in 0.5 mm increments. The hardware number is chosen in accordance with the size of the spike of the wooden profile, otherwise the fastener does not hold the part tightly or it will have to be hammered.

Kleimers are not intended for the perception of load, therefore, hangers cannot be fixed to the coating, ceiling lights, shelves, cabinets. Before fixing the lining, determine the places for hanging equipment. If it is heavy enough, additional embedded parts are mounted on the wall.

self-tapping screws

Self-tapping screws - rods made of hardened steel with a thread and a cap for a screwing tool. To fasten the lining, yellow and white hardware with a protective anti-corrosion coating is used. The thread pitch is increased compared to metal fasteners, since wood has a layered loose structure.

The most commonly used self-tapping screws are 20-45 mm long and 2.2-3.5 mm in diameter. They are screwed in with a screwdriver, a screwdriver, holes are pre-drilled in solid wood. It is possible to fasten the lining through the through method, then use products with a secret hat. After installation, the recesses are filled with a dowel, leveled and puttied.

Kleimers are attached to the crate with thin small screws, nails or staples. The recommended sizes of dowels are 10-12 mm.

Compared to nails, self-tapping screws have a higher fastening strength, are less prone to pulling out, and can be removed if necessary. They are more convenient when using clamps, as fasteners can be damaged by hammer blows.

Experienced craftsmen advise how to properly fasten the lining: use nails and self-tapping screws in inconspicuous places, and put a kleimer in plain sight.

Staples

The fastening of the lining with brackets is carried out with a construction mechanical, pneumatic or electric stapler. Fasteners are introduced into the wood with virtually no physical effort, so you can do a large amount of work in a short time. The advantage of the method is the absence of irreversible damage in the material. The most popular sizes are 4-14 mm - the length of the legs and 11.4 mm - the width of the bracket.

Hardware is produced both untreated from corrosion, and galvanized or copper-plated, for use in conditions with high humidity. in pneumatic and electrical models staplers, the impact force is regulated, which is important when working with such soft material like wood.

Staples are driven into the groove at an angle. In the same way, clamps can be attached, the dimensions of the hardware must correspond to the distance between the holes in the plate.

Vertical lining

With this layout of the boards, the crate is installed horizontally. The bars are pre-treated with impregnations from decay and pests. The locations of the guides are marked on the wall in increments of 40-60 cm. The dowel or self-tapping screw is deepened into the wall by at least 50 mm. Drill the hole if necessary. The top and bottom elements should be as close to the ceiling or floor as possible so that the lining can be securely fixed at the edges. Corners and openings are additionally reinforced with jumpers.

Before attaching the lining, determine the most visible angle. The first profile is nailed. Alternately insert the board with a spike into the groove of the previous element, fix it with fasteners to the crate. Verticality is controlled by the building level.

The hardware is driven into the lower flange of the groove at an angle, the hats are sunk so that the crest of the next lining can freely enter the recess. The last board is cut to the size of the remaining part and nailed.

Joints, junctions and corners are closed with slats, skirting boards, layouts.

Horizontal lining

The crate is mounted vertically from the corners, observing a step of 40-60 cm. To fix the insulation, horizontal jumpers are additionally nailed every 1.2 m or arranged additional frame so that the plates do not slide down. Before fixing the lining, a vapor barrier, heat insulator and waterproofing are laid.

Installation of lamellas starts from the top element, since the last bottom bar is usually cut. At the ceiling level, a whole lining looks visually better, and a non-standard board near the floor will be covered with a plinth.

When fastening the lining horizontally, the spike is directed upwards. Gently tapping with a mallet with a rubber tip or a hammer on the trimming of a wooden profile, set each next board in place and fix it with fasteners from below. The first and last element, as well as short pieces less than 10 cm long, are nailed or fastened with self-tapping screws.

If the wall is sheathed from the bottom up, the board is fixed to the crate from the bottom side, and a self-tapping screw is screwed into the spike along the top with a hat flush with the surface.

The next panel is mounted on a comb and fastened with a hardware into a spike. The last lining is fixed similarly to the first.

ceiling lining

The crate for the ceiling is mounted on hangers or brackets. The horizontal level is set with a laser level, focusing on the lowest point of overlap. A fishing line is pulled along the walls, frame bars are set along it in increments of 25-35 cm for eurolining, 40-60 for other types. When finishing the entire room with clapboard, the walls are first sheathed, then the ceiling.

Before fixing the lining, lay all communications, install embedded parts for massive lamps. If the ceiling is insulated, with a stapler to the crate or wooden wall shoot the vapor barrier film from the side of the ceiling. Thermal insulation is inserted between the frame bars and covered with a membrane. The rough surface should be directed towards the insulation.

They begin to mount the lining from the side opposite from the entrance, so that the last cut board does not catch the eye. If the length of the lamellas is insufficient, a layout with joints along one line or with a separation of the seams is used. The border is closed with a decorative strip or the ends are carefully sanded. Then the docking point is neat and inconspicuous.

Common mistakes

To avoid mistakes, it is important to know how to properly fasten the lining:

Choose well-dried material;

Prime and paint before installation so that there are no hard-to-reach areas for finishing;

Leave a gap between the board and the adjoining wall to compensate for shrinkage or expansion;

Fasten the first, last and extreme elements firmly - with nails or self-tapping screws;

For interior decoration, insert the spike tightly into the groove so that cracks do not form when the wood dries out;

When sheathing from the outside in the tongue and groove connection, gaps are left to compensate for the moisture expansion of the wood;

Select nails, self-tapping screws and kleimers according to the size of the lining;

Kleimers are not intended for fastening the board in unheated rooms and on the street;

Do not work in the cold or in the rain;

Do not neglect the treatment with antiseptics, flame retardants, protective paint compositions.

Today there are thousands various materials for surface finishing, from wall paneling to porcelain stoneware slabs. Depending on performance requirements, the choice is limited to hundreds of different types. Quite popular, and at the same time reliable, durable and, not least, easy to install is lining. But it is worth noting that in order to obtain the desired result, it is necessary to properly mount the lining. That is why the question arises, how to fix the lining? The answer to which you will find below. We will consider all methods and types of fastening, both indoors and in the case.

Types of lining fastening

To begin with, you should familiarize yourself with the types of fastening, consider each of them a little closer.

Generally divided into two types:

Horizontal or wall mount.
Vertical, ceiling mount.

Let's consider each of them separately.

Horizontal way of fastening the lining

How to fix the lining to the wall? With a horizontal fastening of the lining, installation is most often carried out from top to bottom. The first board is mounted directly under the ceiling, leaving a gap of several centimeters (installation is carried out with the groove down). Further, each subsequent bar is installed with a comb into the groove in turn. This is how the complete installation process is carried out right up to the last board. The latter is cut in width, usually in half, and carefully mounted in its place with the help of a mount or a nail puller. The remaining gap, the size of which will be 2-3 centimeters, is closed with a plinth.

There is also a reverse fastening of the lining to the wall, i.e. top down. It is used extremely rarely. It can be noted that the fastening itself will be somewhat easier, since the visibility of the fastening zones is improved, but there are a significant number of disadvantages:

The last plank installed will spoil the look of the whole finish as it will be cut (which is not the case with a top down installation since this plank is at the bottom and is not conspicuous).
There will be gaps between the panels, which is not very good both operationally and decoratively.

Vertical or mounting lining on the ceiling

Speaking about how to fix the lining to the ceiling, a number of rules should be distinguished, which must be observed when carrying out work:

First of all, you should pay attention to the installation of the frame, it should be made of bars 20 * 25 millimeters.
It is advisable to pull a few cords around the edges before starting the installation by level, along which you can navigate in the future, which will somewhat simplify and speed up the whole process.
It is necessary to fasten these bars only horizontally. Initially, fastening is carried out along the edges, after checking by the building level, 3-4 additional fastenings are provided.
In the case of fastening the lining in rooms with high humidity, it is necessary to pre-treat it with an antiseptic, or with a hydrophobic composition.
The fastening itself is carried out most often with the help of nails that are driven in at an angle. In some cases, clamps are used. Also when attaching plastic lining you can use a construction stapler.
The first plank is attached directly to the wall, leaving a small gap of 2-3 centimeters. It is recommended to carry out installation with a thorn to itself.
The boards themselves are mounted alternately, if necessary, for a tighter fastening, they are knocked out with a rubber hammer (the usual one can accidentally damage the surface, so it’s better not to use it).
It should be noted that electrical wiring is usually installed along the ceiling (at least for arranging lighting), therefore, hydro and vapor barrier should be provided.

Ways of fastening lining

Regardless of the type of fastening, vertical or horizontal, fastening of the lining must be carried out to the crate, i.e. wooden frame. At the same time, each of its elements must be set strictly according to the level, since any violations or irregularities will eventually lead to the manifestation of bulges or depressions, which in turn will greatly spoil the appearance of the finish as a whole.

After installing the frame, you can proceed to the direct fastening of the lining. At the same time, in the case when it is carried out in rooms where high air humidity is expected, it is necessary to treat all elements with special hydrophobic substances.

After the installation is completed, a small piece of the board is inserted into the gap left, with the help of which, by pressing or tapping, a tighter connection of the entire structure is made, which in turn allows you to completely get rid of the gaps.

It should be noted that when fixing, it is necessary to leave small gaps of 2-3 centimeters at the beginning of the structure, i.e. at the ceiling, and at the end, at the floor. Such a solution will compensate for the temperature regime, and provide additional ventilation of the room. In the absence of such indents, there is a risk that after a while the boards will swell, and this will negatively affect both the appearance and the performance of the entire finish. Subsequently, such indents are closed with a plinth.

In any case, not taking into account the chosen method of fastening the lining, the first plank is nailed to the frame with finishing nails, it is advisable to completely drown the head in the board with the help of a finisher. At the same time, regardless of the method of fastening, each board is initially nailed in the middle, then along the edges, depending on the length, to additional bars(strictly after checking the building level, and confirming the horizontal position).

In total, there are four main ways of fastening the lining:

screws or self-tapping screws;
using nails;
with the help of clamps;
and using a stapler.

Fastening the lining with self-tapping screws

How to fix the lining with self-tapping screws? This method is usually often found in the decoration of premises where it is not required. additional processing or decoration. In particular, you can often find the use of this method when facing baths. But it should be noted that such a solution is not effective in conditions of frequent temperature changes, as well as high humidity, since in this case the fasteners can dry out, and this will significantly worsen the appearance. But you can get rid of such a problem by pre-treatment with special compounds. At the same time, it is desirable to carry it out once every few months.

It should also be noted that such a fastening is quite reliable, as a result of which it will be a good solution when planning the long-term operation of the finish.

The process of fastening the lining with self-tapping screws takes place as follows:

Initially, each board is tried on on the frame, and marks are made of the attachment points.
Next, technological holes are prepared, with a diameter 2 times smaller than the diameter of the self-tapping screw.
The next step is the installation itself. In this case, the fasteners are screwed into pre-prepared holes with a screwdriver as deep as possible.
To mask the attachment points in the future, the holes are closed with a wooden pin and polished.

Fastening lining with nails

Installation in this way is quite economical, simple, but at the same time somewhat unsafe, since there is a risk of splitting the board, and also short-lived. At the same time, in order to protect the lining from damage, you can use a doboynik, or pre-prepare holes for fastening in the right places.

And yet, how to fasten the lining with nails? Let's start, perhaps, answering this question from afar, namely with a set of materials and tools:

doboynik, for full-fledged nailing without damaging the board;
hammer;
lining, on the area of the room;
nails, in the amount of 5-7 pieces per standard bar (100x1500).

Here is such a basic installation kit, it should be noted that a large consumption of nails will somewhat adversely affect the appearance, but it cannot be reduced, since in this case the fastening will not be strong enough.

For fixing the lining, nails 50-60 millimeters long are usually used. In this case, each fastener is neatly arranged in a groove, after which it is hammered. To remove hats from the surface, and it is necessary, since they will interfere with the installation of subsequent boards, nails are hammered as much as possible with a hammer.

What is it? These are a kind of metal plates, which include the presence of several holes for fastening, and a "tongue" that will actually hold the material. This is a fairly reliable fastener, with which you can reliably, and most importantly, fix almost any material without a trace.

They become the most acceptable for mounting lining for several reasons:

With the right selection, it is possible to fasten the lining as quickly, easily, and most importantly, without a trace.
Due to the manufacture of high-carbon steel, such an element can securely fasten the structure, while at the same time it will withstand high humidity, temperature changes, and any other influences.

And the next question arises, how to properly fasten the lining with kleimers so that it lasts as long as possible? Everything is quite simple here, and does not require special preparation.

First you need to select the necessary elements. Usually, for a block house, kleimers with a tongue height of 6 millimeters are used, while for a standard eurolining - 4 mm. When buying, you should also take into account the consumption, usually it is 20-25 pcs. per square meter of lining.

Now let's look directly at the mounting process:

The first board is usually fastened with nails.
Next, the kleimer is put on a spike with a tongue, after which it is attached to the crate. Its fastening is carried out using nails, screws or a construction stapler. There are a total of three mounting holes, with only two being used.
It is necessary to fix on each beam of the frame with two nails (or another fastener, depending on the choice). Usually such products are already included in the kit for kleimers.
Thus, each board is sequentially fixed.

Fastening the lining with a stapler

The last type of fastening involves the use of a construction stapler. The method is simple and does not require much effort, but nevertheless it requires a certain amount of experience, without which it is not possible to fasten the lining.

But you can go the other way, and just do a series of workouts immediately before editing. Since the slightest inexperienced action can lead to significant surface defects, or deviation of the boards, which in turn will not only spoil the material and its appearance, but also its performance.

The installation itself is quite simple. The board is applied to the frame, after which a bracket is inserted into the groove, this is done strictly at an angle of 45 degrees. It should be noted that any incorrect execution will entail an incomplete insertion of the bracket, which in turn will interfere with the further installation of the next bar.

Conclusion

It should be noted that in order to obtain the required quality of finish, it should be done right choice mounting method, since much depends on it. And the choice should be approached based on the requirements directly to the finished finish. The installation itself will not cause much trouble, since it is quite quick and simple, which allows you to do it yourself without additional help or the involvement of experts. You can learn a little more by watching the video on how to fix the lining.