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We are all used to the fact that lining for many rooms is a traditional finishing material. It is customary to trim the ceilings with clapboard on balconies and saunas. Often, hallways and corridors in cottages and country houses differ in a similar way of finishing. This is because the tree in this form is beautiful, practical and convenient. The situation is the same with ceilings. Having made the ceiling from the lining, you can forget about this part of the room for a long time, occasionally wiping it and refreshing the appearance.

This article is about what kind of lining can be and how to get the most out of this type of design for ceiling decoration. About everything in order.

What are clapboard ceilings

Lining is a traditional and one of the most common finishing materials. The reason for such popularity of wooden plank panels and ceilings is rooted in the days of the USSR. At that time, wood was a very cheap and affordable building material. It was customary to sheathe country houses and verandas with clapboard from the inside. The lining of the ceiling with a wooden board of expensive types of wood was used as an element of the interior decoration of baths, saunas and living quarters. It was considered a special chic to sheathe clapboard on balconies. Often people tried to line the corridor in the apartment and the hallway with wood.

Today the situation has changed dramatically. The tree from the category of cheap and affordable materials has moved into the category of elite finishing methods. Despite this, the population remained in the habit of paying attention in such cases to this type of design. To sheathe the ceiling with clapboard, wooden or plastic, is considered one of the favorite and common finishing options. Here it would be appropriate to talk about the advantages of such a finish option. The ceiling surface, sewn into a tree, turns out:

perfectly smooth and even;
with characteristic external data;
visually larger, due to the correct arrangement of wooden planks;
high tech and easy to use.

This should include the environmental factor. Wood, unlike other materials, is a safe material for people. The finished structure looks beautiful and does not require special care, and plastic panels, MDF strips on the ceiling, are simple and unpretentious in maintenance.

On a note: when finishing the ceiling with wooden strips (planks), it is necessary to take into account the fire factor. should be located in rooms where there is no open flame and where the probability of accidental ignition is low.

On top of that, the idea of making wooden ceilings on your own at home or in the country deserves attention. With detailed instructions at hand, an appropriate set of tools and the required amount of material, you can actually install the lining on the ceiling in a bathhouse, in a sauna or on a balcony with your own hands. The main thing is to know how to sheathe and the better to sheathe in each case.

What materials are lining made today

Lining in the sense in which we see it is strips, wooden or from another material. Such wooden strips were used to sheathe railway cars, more freight cars, less often passenger cars. This is where such a name, specific at first glance, came from.

The name of the material rather emphasizes its shape and method of laying. To date, strips used for finishing work are produced, traditionally made of wood. The material is produced from MDF boards. However, plastic panels (strips) are most often used today, less often metal strips. Hemming the ceiling with clapboard made of different materials depends more on the performance of the room.

Important! The cost-effectiveness and practicality of plastic lining differs significantly from the wooden counterpart. Compared to the cost of wooden lining, the cost of material and work with plastic panels is many times less.

It is customary to divide the finishing material of the "lining" type into the following types:

wooden;
from MDF - panels;
metal;
plastic.

All of these types have the same principle of fastening, therefore, the choice of material does not have much importance for the installation of ceiling structures. Before the purchase itself, you need to clearly know where the work will be carried out, in which room it is planned to make the ceiling.

For example: for baths, saunas and verandas, it is best to use wooden strips made of oak, beech and other types of wood that are durable and resistant to moisture. It is important for us to get an environmentally friendly and comfortable environment indoors. Wood is an indispensable material in this regard.

Giving preference to wood, at this stage you should know that the lining of the ceiling with a wooden clapboard has its own subtleties and features.

Important! In terms of quality, wooden lining comes in four categories, each of which differs in the number of knots and dark spots in the wood structure. The more knots and spots, the cheaper the material.

It is preferable to use pine boards for finishing balconies, but linden, alder and aspen are also suitable. With appropriate processing, such structures can serve for a long time, without losing their technological qualities and characteristics.

Wooden ceilings made of MDF are designed for installation only in dry rooms. The slightest exposure to moisture will lead to rapid damage to the finished ceiling structure, associated with deformation and collapse of the entire structure. It is allowed to install MDF - panels in the kitchen with a metal frame. The strength of the structure in this case is a guarantee of your safety.

For an apartment where there is a regular bathroom, ceilings made of lining made of plastic panels will look best. The factor of practicality and ease of maintenance plays a decisive role here. As for the residential premises directly, it is very good to use wood for finishing the upper part of the premises for a country or guest house. Such a surface will breathe, and contribute to good air exchange inside the room.

Lining mounting options

For residential premises, a wooden frame is mainly used to install ceiling structures. This is especially true for the country option. Wooden fastenings are very convenient in work. It is easier to nail mounting nails to wooden bars and slats. Clips and self-tapping screws are easier to contact with wood. How to fix the lining to the ceiling if it is necessary to sheathe a large room in this way? In this situation, a strong and solid frame is indispensable.

In the usual sense, we are dealing with one of the varieties of suspended ceilings. With the help of the formed frame, you can easily and quickly hide all the existing imperfections on the rough surface, old paint or plaster. Due to the correctly assembled frame, a new finishing surface is created, on which the finishing materials will continue to adhere. It is convenient to place additional sources of lighting in the interceiling space, communications and electrical wiring are hidden.

Important! Do not believe those who claim that a board or plastic can be mounted directly on the ceiling or on the wall. You can't do without a crate.

How to sheathe the ceiling surface without using metal parts and accessories, in which cases the metal frame will be more reliable, we will consider further.

Working on the frame

If you want to make a ceiling from a lining in the corridor, in the hallway, in the bedroom, in other large areas, the metal frame is an indispensable element of the ceiling structure. The use of hardwood boards, which are of considerable weight, will also require an additional metal support. This applies to a greater extent to the equipment of the ceiling in baths and saunas.

A metal frame is formed from aluminum profiles, similar in shape and parameters to metal guides used in plasterboard ceiling structures.

Wooden lining on the ceiling using a metal frame will increase your finishing costs. For these purposes, you will need:

UD profile is used to form the perimeter;
the frame itself is already assembled using CD profiles;
the structure attached to the ceiling is fixed with U-shaped clamps and crabs.

Self-tapping screws, staples and clips are usually used to mount boards on a frame. The last two options for fastening strips are most often used when working with plastic panels. Nails and staples are mainly designed to work with a wooden frame.

The fixing of metal profiles is similar to the method of installing fasteners for suspended ceilings. Fix the hangers on the base surface, on which the guides will be laid.

Usually, for work on balconies or in small rooms, wooden beams are used for crates. Dimensions of materials 40x40 or 50x50 mm. The beam is the main structure of the whole structure, including additional jumpers and reinforcing bars. With the help of plastic dowels in combination with screws and nails - screws, wooden slats are attached to the ceiling. For the reliability of the entire structure, fix the wooden blocks to the base surface with anchors or hardened self-tapping screws.

The figure shows an approximate scheme for laying boards based on a wooden frame.

MDF strips are laid in the same way. For this purpose, strips of equal length are cut, 3-5 cm less than the distance between opposite walls. The width of the strips can be similar to wooden planks, 100 mm and 130 mm.

Important! Use ready-made, factory-made MDF panels on which the front side has a chamfer.

Compliance with the laying technology and the correct selection of materials will tell you how to properly hem or in the sauna with a wooden board. With proper installation of the frame and laying of boards, the finished ceiling surface will not only be perfectly smooth and complete, but also even in accordance with the chosen plane.

We make a ceiling from a plastic lining

An economical and practical option for interior decoration of ceiling structures is plastic lining. Due to the fact that a huge number of types and types of plastic panels are produced today, this type of ceiling design is very relevant and deserves attention.

On a note: finishing the ceiling with plastic clapboard is very appropriate in domestic premises, where there is intense pollution of the ceiling surface. In residential premises, the use of plastic is limited due to the peculiarities of apartment design.

Plastic panels are very popular for finishing ceiling structures in offices. The modern design of plastic ceilings does not imply a home style, so such ceiling structures, despite their originality and manufacturability, will not be appropriate in bedrooms or in the country.

The method of laying plastic lining is identical to working with wooden boards. There is the same gap of 3-5 cm to compensate for the effect of thermal expansion. Laying fragments begins with the starting bar. Do not forget to make holes for installing fixtures during the installation of plastic panels. In order to know how to fix the lining on the plastic ceiling, a wooden frame is used. Metal in this case will only make the entire ceiling structure heavier.

Conclusion

Installation of ceiling structures in this way is by far the most convenient option for interior decoration of domestic premises. For living rooms, this method is suitable only in the country version. Ceiling structures made of boards and plastic panels in the sauna, bath, ceilings in summer kitchens and verandas have their own flavor and originality. To sum up, remember the following:

1. Lining in popularity occupies one of the leading places among the used ceiling design options;

2. Finished products can be made from different materials:

wood;
plastic;
metal.

3. Wood is an environmentally friendly material, suitable for facing ceiling structures in saunas, baths, kitchens and hallways;

4. Plastic and metal panels are more related to the office finish;

5. Installation of ceiling structures is carried out on the frame;

6. The frame can be metal or wood.

Clapboard ceiling decoration is both a beautiful, practical and functional solution for any room. Consider the advantages and disadvantages, the secrets of choice and the step-by-step technology for installing a wooden lining with your own hands.

The content of the article:

The modern range of facing materials for the ceiling is very extensive and diverse. Along with plastic panels and gypsum boards, profiled natural wood boards can be safely attributed to the most relevant cladding options. It is not difficult to explain the popularity of clapboard ceiling decoration: it is absolutely environmentally friendly, beautiful and easy to install and maintain.

Advantages and disadvantages of lining the ceiling with clapboard

Ceiling cladding with natural wood panels is rightfully considered a classic of the building genre. In comparison with competitive finishing materials, lining has many undeniable advantages:

Excellent performance. The wood finish is strong, reliable and durable. With proper pre-installation preparation and correct subsequent care, it will last at least 12-15 years.
Ecological cleanliness. Unlike synthetic "relatives", lining made of natural lining is not only harmless, but also useful for the inhabitants of the home. Due to its hygroscopic properties, wood is able to purify the air and normalize the level of humidity in the room.
Ease of installation. A distinctive feature of the finishing profiled board is the presence of special grooves and ridges. Thanks to these structural elements, ceiling cladding is carried out easily and quickly, even without the involvement of assistants.
Practicality and functionality. Sheathing the ceiling base with clapboard allows you to mask minor flaws and flaws made during construction or repair. In addition, behind the coating of decorative panels, you can hide electrical wiring, pipes, ventilation ducts, sound or heat insulating layer.
Aesthetic appearance. The wooden lining ceiling looks solid, stylish and spectacular, and, importantly, it is compatible with almost any room design.
Construction budget savings. Using a natural board for ceiling cladding, you can save a lot on the purchase of starting and finishing finishing materials - plaster, putty, paint, wallpaper, etc.

The disadvantages of such a finish include the following:

Competent lining of the ceiling with clapboard implies the mandatory construction of a frame crate. Constructions of this type noticeably "steal" the height of the living space.
The next disadvantage of wooden cladding is the low level of fire safety. To protect the material from the destructive and dangerous effects of fire, it is carefully treated with protective flame retardants before installation work.
It should be borne in mind that natural lining, valued for its strength and durability, may slightly change the geometric parameters and deform due to incorrect operation or careless maintenance.

Criteria for choosing lining for finishing the ceiling

Sheathing wooden board is presented on the construction market in a huge assortment. To determine the choice of this material, you should have a clear idea of its varieties and properties. The main criteria by which modern lining is distinguished are the type of wood used, its grade and section profile.

The type of wood when choosing lining for the ceiling

Traditionally, softwood or hardwood is used for the manufacture of lining:

Softwood. This category includes pine, spruce, fir, larch and cedar. Products from the listed raw materials are practical, durable and resistant to moisture and fungi, so they can be used for finishing ceilings in both residential and utility rooms and utility rooms. The only thing is that such a lining is not recommended for the interior lining of saunas and baths, since with a sharp increase in temperature, fragrant coniferous wood releases an abundant amount of resinous substances that can provoke spontaneous combustion of the material.
Hardwood. This category includes oak, beech, ash, aspen, alder and linden. Such wood lends itself perfectly to mechanical processing, tinting and artificial aging techniques. Due to its high decorativeness, it is suitable for covering ceilings in rooms for various purposes - from terraces and balconies to bedrooms and children's rooms. A distinctive property of hardwood is resistance to temperature fluctuations and dampness. That is why lining ceilings of this type are often equipped in rooms with high and variable humidity.

Classes of lining for finishing the ceiling

A separate topic is the range of lining. Depending on the quality of the source wood, all molded lumber is divided into several classes:

Class "A". Lumber marked with this marking is characterized by the presence of small single knots and small non-through cracks. It should be noted that, according to the established standards, the listed flaws are allowed only in invisible areas and areas (the reverse side and the end of the board).

Class "B". The lining, belonging to this class, has noticeable roughness and not smooth, shallow longitudinal grooves and resin bags. On the front surface of such products, you can find traces of mechanical stress - chips, scratches, notches and burrs.

Class "C". The last class lumber includes edged boards with noticeable mechanical damage and pronounced wood defects - extensive knots, short through cracks, spots of a contrasting shade and exposed resin pockets.

Note! For finishing cladding of ceilings in residential premises, experts recommend using the lining of the first two classes. As for materials marked "B" and "C", it is better to use them to create an intermediate frame or a rough binder.

Tree profile when choosing lining for ceiling decoration

Depending on the type of profile connection, all wooden lining intended for finishing ceilings and other planes in residential premises is divided into ordinary and "euro". The first is cheaper than the second, but at the same time it is significantly inferior to it in terms of configuration and processing quality:

It differs from the traditional European-style lining in its correct geometry, as well as in a more complex and deep tongue-and-groove connection, which prevents the formation of gaps between adjacent boards even with significant temperature and humidity shifts.
An important difference between European and classical lining is in terms of humidity. In the production process, the first one undergoes mandatory drying in automated chambers, due to which the wood acquires the necessary strength and plasticity.
The next argument in favor of eurolining is the presence of special ventilation ducts that act as air ducts and are responsible for the full outflow of accumulated condensate.

Do-it-yourself technology for mounting lining on the ceiling

Sheathing the ceiling with a wooden board is a task feasible for any interested craftsman. Thanks to convenient locking connections, the assembly of the cladding is quick and extremely simple. Let's take a closer look at how to fix the lining to the ceiling so that the finish is beautiful and durable.

Preparatory work before finishing the ceiling with clapboard

At the first stage of work, a number of certain preparatory measures should be performed:

To begin with, the old sheathing and finishing materials are removed from the base ceiling. The surface is thoroughly cleaned of dirt and dust. Small cracks found in the floor slab are sealed with a putty mixture, deep cracks are embroidered with a grinder and concreted with a cement-sand mortar.
To prevent biodestruction of wooden finishes, the prepared base must be covered with a deep penetration antiseptic composition. The primer of the ceiling is carried out in two stages using a fleecy roller equipped with a telescopic rod. The recommended time interval between the first and second application of the protective emulsion is 2-3 hours.
At the same stage of work, the lining purchased for finishing the ceiling is released from the packaging wrapper, sorted and laid out in one layer on a flat horizontal surface in the room being installed. Such a simple procedure will help prevent cracking, warping and shrinkage of the purchased material.

Marking the surface for mounting lining on the ceiling

At this stage of work, it is necessary to prepare for the subsequent arrangement of the frame system and correctly mark the ceiling surface. The main purpose of the markup is to determine the horizontal, indicating the plane of the wood finish, and drawing parallel lines on all walls around the perimeter of the room.

It is most convenient to mark the ceiling with a laser tool, however, as an alternative, it is acceptable to use a conventional building level. With the help of the latter, the lowest point of the base base is determined and, starting from it, marks are made on the walls around the perimeter of the room.

To apply a closed contour, use a marker or a coloring paint cord. It is important that the laid line converges at a single point, and any displacements indicate errors in the marking process.

The height of the interceiling space should not only mask the unevenness and errors of the floor slab, but also allow the free installation of all communications, insulating materials and built-in lighting devices. As a rule, when finishing with clapboard, the ceiling is lowered by no more than 7-10 cm.

Arrangement of a frame for a ceiling from a lining

At the end of the marking work, they begin the construction of the supporting frame. For the manufacture of battens, a metal profile or planed beams with a section of 50x50 mm are used. You can also use the substandard lining found during sorting. The main thing to remember is that all wooden elements of the frame structure are subject to mandatory antiseptics.

Let us consider in more detail the rules for arranging a frame for a ceiling from a lining:

The crate is installed, according to the markup, in the direction perpendicular to the position of the future cladding. With longitudinal fastening of the lining, the frame planks are fixed across the room, with transverse fastening of wooden sheathing, the frame is mounted along the room.
The prepared elements of the supporting structure are fixed in the next order: first, the edging rails are attached, then the intermediate ones. To fix the details of the crate, dowels and screws are used.
The optimal distance between adjacent rows of the frame system is 30-40 cm. To avoid the possibility of sagging of the facing fabric, the structure is additionally strengthened with the help of transverse jumpers or suspensions.
During the construction process, the crate is periodically checked for flatness. If necessary, all errors are corrected with the help of placed bars or pegs of appropriate sizes.

Note! Before installing the lining in the subceiling space, all cables, wiring, the bases of built-in lamps, as well as heat and sound insulating materials, are carefully laid.

Mounting lining on the ceiling

Next, proceed to the direct sheathing of the frame structure. In order to quickly and reliably form a ceiling from a lining with your own hands, the panels are fastened with the help of hidden metal clamps. Such fixing elements are both invisible and reliable: on the one hand, they are attached to the underside of the finishing board, on the other - to the crate.

The installation of wooden panels starts from one of the corners of the room, while technological gaps (up to 10 mm) must be left between the walls and the extreme strips for possible thermal expansion of the material and unhindered ventilation in the ceiling niche.
The first plank is attached on both sides to the beams of the frame using a furniture stapler. The second board is inserted at a slight angle into the grooves of the first, inserted all the way and fixed at the places where the crate lies with the help of clamps.
Fastening of subsequent panels is carried out similarly to the first two. For reliability, each installed bar is gently tapped along the entire length with a mallet.
During the set of a wooden ceiling, through holes of the desired configuration are cut out in the necessary places to output the supply wires. To trim the lining, use an electric jigsaw or a hand saw.
At the end of the facing work, all gaps between the wooden sheathing and the walls are sealed with additional elements of a suitable size. Decorative clips or small furniture nails are used as fasteners.
If desired, the wagon trim is coated with protective compounds based on natural oils or beeswax. Such impregnations emphasize the natural beauty of wood, give it a soft matte finish and protect against mold and wood bugs.

When starting installation work, it is necessary to de-energize the room to be lined by turning off the circuit breakers in the switchboard.

How to sheathe the ceiling with clapboard - look at the video:

Having studied the step-by-step technology of mounting the lining on the ceiling and competently organizing the finishing process, even a novice master will be able to turn a scattering of wooden planks into a beautiful and reliable cladding.

Incredibly, it’s easy to hem the ceiling with a clapboard yourself! Just a few efforts, a little time, a little knowledge and you're done. Indeed, the installation of finishing materials is not difficult. It is enough to have a good assistant next to you, because it will not work to install it alone.

In rooms, as a rule, ceilings are not sheathed. But the kitchen, bathroom, veranda - these are just the rooms where it will be most appropriate.

Having determined the room, let's talk about the materials and tools that we will need.

Tools and materials

To sheathe the ceiling from the lining with your own hands, you need a frame.

You don’t need to buy expensive tools for do-it-yourself ceiling coverings, because any craftsman will surely have such a tool. We will need:

screwdriver;
roulette;
a hacksaw with small teeth or a jigsaw;
level;
perforator or drill;
a hammer.

By the way, the tool can be rented at hardware stores.

The crate can be either metal or wood.

Wooden crate for the home it is most preferable, since panels are easier to attach to it, and it wins in price compared to a metal profile.

Metal crate more commonly used for drywall.

When filing the ceiling with clapboard in the bathroom, it would also be preferable to install a metal frame. This is due to the fact that the deformation of the metal does not occur in a humid room.

To install a frame made of wooden blocks, you need:

wooden beam 40 * 40 mm;
brackets, which are fasteners;
wedges, wooden or plastic, used to install the frame;
screws for fastening.

To install a metal frame, we will need:

steel metal profile;
connecting elements;
profile hanger;
anchors and self-tapping screws for metal.

Choosing a material

Now we select directly the panels themselves. They are divided into several types:

metal,
plastic,
wooden,

The principle of attachment is the same. Before you buy, you need to decide which room we will sheathe.

For wet rooms, a bathroom, for example, plastic is more suitable. But for the kitchen and the veranda, the best option would be wooden, given its environmental friendliness and naturalness.

There are many materials for sheathing, and they all differ from each other.

Wooden have four categories, distinguished by the presence of dark spots and knots on their surface.

The fewer spots and knots, the more expensive the material.

As for the choice of the breed from which the panel boards are made, it is better to choose pine, linden or cedar.

Plastic are good for damp rooms, but exposure to direct sunlight causes "fading".

They bend easily, hide the irregularities of the ceiling coverings well, but cracks from constant stress can appear on them.

But the cracks can no longer be restored.

MDF panels should only be used in dry rooms. Moisture can cause damage to the material, their deformation and collapse.

After the purchase, you should not immediately upholster the ceiling with them. The panels must be allowed to rest so that their temperature is equal to the temperature of the room where they will be installed.

Sheathing preparation.

Diagonal trim

Before strengthening the frame, you need to prepare the ceiling covering. The cracks and holes in need to be patched. The crumbling plaster is also removed.

Be sure to treat the surface with a special solution from the fungus, which can form under the skin.

If necessary, we insulate it with penofol or isolon - this is a heat-insulating material based on foil.

Having processed the ceiling covering, we proceed to the frame.

We mount the railings.

Installation of wooden beams:

To begin with, we determine the level at which the crate is mounted.

Then we mark the direction of the bars. The panel must be attached strictly perpendicular to the direction of the timber. It can be mounted vertically, horizontally and diagonally.

Now brackets are attached at the same distance from each other. A wooden beam is attached to the brackets. To level the level of the crate, use wooden wedges.

The crate is installed very evenly, the lining will be stuffed on it. Otherwise, the coating will turn out to be wavy, ugly.

Wooden frame, must be treated with an antifungal agent. This will extend the "life" of the ceiling covering.

Installation from a metal profile:

On the walls, along their perimeter, fasten the metal profile. We fix the hangers.

The main profiles of the frame crate are attached to the suspension itself and the starting profile.

Before fixing the crate, do not forget to adjust the level.

After installing the crate, we proceed to filing the ceiling covering.

Video - how to sheathe the ceiling with your own hands:

Sheathing with nails and clamps

Now let's talk about how to fix the lining to the ceiling. Do it like this:

the boards are nailed to the crate strictly perpendicularly, directing the panels to the wall with a spike;
set using a level, attaching it with self-tapping screws;
the second panel is inserted in such a way that its tongue coincides with the groove of the first and is fixed in the same way as the first, applying a level.
sew to the end;
Holes are made in plastic panels with a drill before sheathing, thereby avoiding damage to the surface during installation.

The finished coating is decorated with wooden skirting boards around the perimeter, which well hide the gaps of the trimmed lining.

To make the ceiling from the lining look beautiful, you can paint it. And it is better to varnish, and the lining, for example, the contour of the skirting boards, go through the stain of a darker color in relation to the main one, and then with varnish.

Now you can admire the finished beautiful ceiling, made by yourself.

Video - installation of plastic panels:

Cost in rubles

A real work of a professional.

The cost of panels depends on the type of wood, on its species, the quality of drying of the material, the equipment on which the panels are made, on their length.

The panels are divided into three price parameters: high, medium and low.

High- high quality material, made from deciduous softwood species. They are processed according to the European standard. Their price is never less than 310 rubles. per square meter.

Medium- deciduous hardwoods, their price ranges from 215 to 310 rubles. per square meter.

Low- conifers. Their price ranges from 100 to 215 rubles. per square meter.

Calculating the cost of plating work, we calculate the area of the surface to be lined. Facing installation is estimated in the range from 150 to 350 rubles. per square meter. It depends on the complexity of the work and the master performing this work.

Knowing how to sheathe the ceiling with clapboard, using the above information, you can do it yourself. And if you need to hire a master, then you can independently calculate the cost of his work. Good luck!

Lining is a finishing material that is widely used in construction. Lining the ceiling with clapboard is often used in the decoration of country houses and baths. This finishing material has been known for many years. The ceiling made of wooden lining looks attractive, it is easy to breathe with it. Lining is also used for exterior decoration of buildings. The edges of this product have a special groove for fastening. The connection is reliable, durable and protects the structure from the penetration of excess moisture.

Before you begin to sheathe the ceiling with a clapboard, the material must be treated with an antiseptic, and then varnished or painted.

Types and some characteristics of lining

There are different types of lining. The most common ones are wood and plastic. Plastic lining when carrying out wall and ceiling cladding is used very often. It is made in the form of separate rails, which have some advantages over other finishing materials:

Has excellent decorative qualities and attractive appearance.
Does not require any additional processing after installation.
Attaches to the surface very easily and simply.
Well hides all the errors of the base surface.
The material does not corrode, does not rot.
Its cost is much lower than the price of wooden lining.
When installing plastic panels, you can perform additional sound insulation and insulation of the room.

Features of wooden lining:

It is an environmentally friendly natural material.
Installation is more complicated compared to the plastic counterpart.
It has higher thermal insulation properties than plastic material.
It has a fairly high durability.
The surface of the ceiling, lined with wooden clapboard, requires special care.
Has a beautiful appearance.
Lining the ceiling with clapboard allows you to install additional thermal protection and sound insulation.
It costs much more than plastic products.
An excellent material for interior decoration of dry rooms.

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Tools for the job

To finish the ceiling with a clapboard with your own hands, you need to prepare the following tools:

perforator or drill;
screwdriver;
a hammer;
construction square;
level;
rule;
roulette;
scissors for cutting metal;
hacksaw with fine teeth;
bars for lathing with a thickness of 20 mm or more (these can be wooden slats or metal profiles UD and CD);
dowels and self-tapping screws for fastening the elements of the crate;
crabs (cross-shaped fasteners for metal profiles).

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ceiling lining process

Sheathing of the ceiling with clapboard should be done without haste, since the marriage made in the work cannot always be corrected. The procedure is something like this:

The marking of the crate begins with the identification of the lowest corner of the room. At this point, a distance equal to the sum of the thickness of the beam or profile and the thickness of the lining is measured from the corner down. There is a mark on the wall.
The mark is transferred using a water or laser level to all walls of the room.
All marks are connected by fishing line or nylon thread. A line around the perimeter of the room is beaten off on the walls along it.
If wooden slats are used for the construction of the crate, they must be pre-treated to protect against mold and fungus with an antiseptic.
The elements of the crate are attached to the wooden ceiling with self-tapping screws. The distance between the bars is no more than 50 cm.
The crate is attached to the concrete surface with dowels, for which it is necessary to drill the appropriate holes.
First, the extreme rails are attached, then the rest. The beam closest to the wall is fixed 10 cm from it. With the help of wooden, plywood or other spacers, the slats are aligned to obtain a strictly horizontal surface. This is checked with a fishing line stretched between the extreme bars of the crate.
Mounted wiring for lighting fixtures.
The initial lining panel is attached to the crate with a gap of 5-7 mm from the wall.
Next, install the following strips, firmly inserting them into the locks of the previous ones. Sometimes you have to knock them out with light blows with a rubber mallet. Fastening is done using small screws, nails. In a wooden lining, it is recommended to pre-drill holes so that the panel does not split.
For the installation of lighting fixtures, appropriate holes are cut out with a sharp knife, a jigsaw, and special drilling crowns. When cutting holes in a plastic lining, it is recommended to heat the knife.
The last strip most often has to be adjusted to size, cutting it along with a hacksaw or a jigsaw.
The lining of the ceiling with clapboard is finished. It remains to install a ceiling plinth, which will close the gap between the wall and the cladding material and give the ceiling surface a finished look.