Compost pit for humus. How to make a compost pit correctly: valuable advice from experienced summer residents

If you got bad land on the site, on which nothing wants to grow, start enriching it. It is easiest to bring black soil, but it is not always possible to get it, especially in urban areas. It is also unprofitable to bring in abundant chemistry: in the end, you yourself will consume it. One thing remains: to make the nutrient soil ourselves. Or rather, learn how to make healthy compost. It is only unknowing people who are afraid of compost pits, because they think that they emit a stench that spoils the air throughout the site. In fact, compost does not smell if it is properly laid and the bacteria are kept active. How - let's figure it out in more detail.

So, the first step is to select a convenient place for a compost pit on the site. As a rule, she is assigned territory in the backyard of the garden, behind farm buildings, where the appearance of a heap of waste will not spoil the overall landscape. The only caveat: look during heavy rains where the water flows. It should not run towards the well (if there is one), otherwise rotting waste products may get there, which will affect the quality and taste of the water.

There are two options for arranging: you can dig a deep hole and put raw materials for compost in it, or knock down a wide box with a removable wall from wooden planks for ease of use.

Pit technology

A deep hole is more convenient because all the plant materials will hide in the ground and will not cut the eyes, but the compost takes longer to cook in it, and it is more difficult to mix it. If, nevertheless, only this option suits you, equip the pit correctly, because oxygen and ventilation are needed for the normal decomposition of organic matter. And the dense earthen walls and the bottom will not allow any air to pass through. Therefore, the pit is dug as follows:

The soil is taken out no more than a meter deep, three meters long and one and a half meters wide.
20 cm on each side recede from the walls of the pit and a wooden box is knocked down, digging in 4 columns in the corners and hammering boards to them.
There is a distance of about 5 cm between the boards to ventilate all layers of compost.
Divide the pit into two equal parts using a wooden board to fill only one half.
The bottom is covered with thick branches of trees, bark, spruce branches and straw (whatever you find). This will drain the excess moisture and help the compost to ventilate from below. The height of the drainage layer is 10-15 cm.

Plant waste is stored in one part of the compost pit, but during the season they are thrown several times from one half to the other in order to saturate the heap with oxygen.

The hole can be made half in the ground, and not completely buried, then it will be easier for you to stir the contents and air access will improve

The second option for laying compost is in a box made of unpainted wood (or factory made of plastic). In appearance, it is absolutely identical to ordinary boxes, only several times larger. When creating a frame, do not forget to leave gaps between the boards and make one side removable, so that it is more convenient to lay and mix the raw materials. Alternatively, you can hang the door.

The plastic composter has perforated doors on each side at the bottom, through which the contents are ventilated, but you will have to humidify the waste yourself

Since such structures are usually made for many years, the floor can be concreted, and drainage can be laid on top (such as in the pit). Some owners put wooden or plastic shields on the bottom. True, over time, the tree will fall into disrepair, but after all, nothing is eternal.

Now it remains to fill the prepared place with the right raw materials, which will rot into high-quality compost.

Two compost boxes located next to each other are convenient in that you can transfer waste for ventilation from one to the other, without clogging up the surrounding area

Features of the correct laying of waste

In order for your pile to successfully rot and turn into nutrient soil by the new season, only plant waste should be thrown into the compost: leaves, cut grass, remnants of roots and fruits, turf, weeds, finely chopped branches of trees and shrubs.

Placing waste from your own garden in the compost pit, you thereby solve the problem of removing vegetable waste and get fresh, high-quality soil

To make the composition of the compost even more nutritious, put in it everything that you did not eat yourself: leftover soups, coffee grounds, tea leaves, yesterday's salad, etc. you will be surprised how quickly it will fill up. Old cardboard boxes, newspapers (black and white), worn-out items made from natural materials (cotton, wool) are suitable for compost.

Unwanted ingredients

And now let's dwell on the harmful, from the point of view of experienced gardeners, waste. It is strictly forbidden to put in the compost the remains of animal products: dead birds and animals, old bacon, fats, intestines, spoiled milk, sour cream, etc. All this, when decomposed, begins to exude an unpleasant odor and will attract to a heap of harmful insects, neighbor dogs, cats and crows ... In addition, putrefaction processes in animal remains are slower than in plant ones, and your compost will not have time to mature by the next season.

But the summer residents have not decided on the marine inhabitants. Some do not add them so as not to attract animals to a heap, but others are happy to throw into the compost everything that remains when cleaning fish (heads, scales, entrails), motivating this by the fact that they contain phosphorus, valuable for plants. Only it is necessary to bury such waste deeper in a heap so that the cats do not smell the smell.

Indeed, fish feeding is useful. Therefore, we advise everyone who is sorry to throw out a valuable product: do not put them in compost, but bury them right under the trees, in the near-stem circles. Just dig a hole deeper. Thus, you will feed the garden, and you will not attract stray animals.

If you knock down a compost bin with an opening roof, then feel free to put fish waste inside, because animals will not crawl into such a container

Do not put plastic, glass, metal objects, rubber, water from washing, etc. into the pit. They are harmful to the soil. All paper products with a laminated backing or with colored drawings will not be useful either. There are too many paint and chemicals in it.

An unwanted ingredient in compost is tomato and potato tops. In the fall, it is all affected by late blight, and the spores of this disease will be transmitted with compost to healthy plants.

Weeds are not put into compost and weeds with the beginning or the end of the flowering period. For example, if a dandelion has managed to form a flower, the seeds will still ripen, even if it is picked and placed in a pile. Therefore, try to mow the weeds before the flower buds appear.

If there is nowhere to put the tops of nightshades and large weeds that have managed to sow, spread them on a solid base (concrete, linoleum) near the compost pit and let dry. Then throw all the vegetation into an iron barrel and set it on fire. Everything will burn, along with diseases and seeds. Useful ash will remain. Add it to your compost heap.

How to compost waste?

In order for waste to decompose quickly, moisture, oxygen and accelerators of putrefactive processes are needed. You provide moisture yourself, watering the pile abundantly during those periods when it is hot outside. Oxygen will penetrate into the compost more actively if you properly decompose the layers of raw materials. So, dry waste (potato peelings, straw, hay, fallen leaves, husks, etc.) should be alternated with green (tops, fresh grass, rotting vegetables and fruits), soft with hard, in order to avoid excessive compaction. It is very important that the compost is prepared from brown and green components in equal proportions. Fresh waste is the main source of nitrogen for all plants. Brown (i.e. dry) ones act as a layer that prevents the compost from sticking together. They are considered a kind of fiber that makes the soil airier and lighter.

Try to put green and brown waste in equal proportions, as excess greens will cause compaction, and excess dry raw materials will suck nitrogen out of the compost.

If you need compost for next spring, add decomposition accelerators to it. These can be concentrates purchased in a garden store, which must be diluted with warm water and activate the work of beneficial bacteria contained in the preparation.

Fresh manure (horse or cow) is an excellent accelerator. They find a couple of flat cakes on the field, bred them in a bucket of water and let them brew for two days. Then the prepared solution is poured into compost and the contents of the heap are mixed. If this goodness is not near your summer cottage, finely chop the leaves of dandelion, nettle, legumes, fill it with a bucket of warm water and put it in the sun. After day 4, the mixture will begin to ferment. Then pour it into the compost.

To avoid nitrogen weathering, cover the top of the compost heap with non-woven fabric or black film. When closed, decay is faster, and a sign of this will be an active generation of heat. The temperature inside the compost should be at least 60 degrees.

It is highly undesirable to cover a wooden box with plastic from bottom to top, because by doing so you will block the path of oxygen, and the quality of the finished compost will be much worse

During the season, the pile is shoveled 3-4 times to ensure uniform rotting of all layers. By spring, plant waste will turn into rich, loose soil with a scent of earth, which can be applied under trees, mulched strawberries, or mixed with garden soil to improve its composition.

Compost pit Is a place for the disposal of organic waste. As a result of the activity of microorganisms, it decomposes garden waste, which becomes the basis for highly effective organic fertilization. In the article, we will consider options for making a compost pit with our own hands.

In one form or another, compost pits, in the form of the simplest heaps of garbage, are present on every household plot. But correct designs in the form of modern composters or specially equipped boxes can increase the amount of valuable fertilizer and the speed of its creation.

The simplest compost pit can be made with your own hands from auxiliary building materials available in the country.

Principles of compost pit construction

The main function of the compost pit is to create the most comfortable environment for the life of bacteria, microorganisms, earthworms, the number of which determines the speed of the process and the quality of the resulting compost. To do this, a fairly high temperature and humidity must be maintained inside the compost heap with a regular supply of oxygen.

For this, the compost container must have the following design features:

Compost boxes are made from any materials at hand. These can be boards, slate trimmings, corrugated board, metal construction mesh and even car tires. More capital structures are built of brick or concrete. There are also lightweight, portable utilizers in metal or plastic drums.

The main sanitary requirement for the construction of a compost pit is its distance of 20 meters from reservoirs and sources of drinking water. Rain streams should not drain from the compost heap in the direction of wells, boreholes, basins.

Choosing a place on the site for a compost pit

The location of the composter on the site should not become a source of groundwater contamination, a threat to human and animal health. Avoid placing the compost pit in wetlands or in areas with standing water.

The external design of the compost pit can be absolutely anything. It can be decorated with beautifully painted shields, fenced with plantings of loach and perennial, ornamental plants.

Making a compost pit with your own hands

In a garden or home garden, you can use the simplest tools to make a high-quality structure and turn a pile of garden waste and decomposable household waste into valuable fertilizer. There are many different types of compost heaps, from earth ditches to actual concrete structures.

Compost pit in the ground

To create a compost pit:

In the ground, they select a site away from residential buildings.
On an area 1.5 m wide and of arbitrary length, the top layer of sod and soil is removed.
The bottom of the pit should be located at a depth of no more than 0.5 meters.
The bottom is covered with a sand cushion to drain excess water.

The first layer acts as a drainage and aerates the heap and consists of cut branches.

Layers are laid on them:

cut grass;
dry foliage;
sawdust;
household food waste;
manure;
weeds.

The layers are sprinkled with peat or garden soil, spilled with water. To speed up the decomposition process, it is advisable to grind all the ingredients before laying them by simply chopping them with a shovel.

The total height of the pile should not exceed 1.5 meters. This means that it will rise 1 meter above the ground. The structure is protected from above with a covering material or a slate shield. In hot weather, the pile is watered with plain water.

Under natural conditions, microorganisms will be able to process such a waste dump in two summer seasons. This is the easiest and most economical way to produce compost.

Use EM drugs. Microorganisms need a temperature of + 4 ° C inside the compost heap to successfully process waste.

Making a compost pit from planks

For ease of use and acceleration of the disposal process, the compost container is made of boards. The optimal size of the compost bin is 1x1.5 meters.

Instructions for making a pit from boards:

Garbage is put into such a container through the top according to the general principle, starting with the branches. And you can rake out the finished compost from the bottom.

Photo: drawing of the compost box, diagram of the composter

Variants of compost pits made from planks

The slate is durable and is perfect for the walls of the compost bin. You can use both wave and flat sheet slate.

Options for making a slate composter:

At the location of the compost heap, markings are made and deepen the cut to size sheets. They can be fixed with an external, wooden or iron crate.
Alternatively, metal pipes are buried in the ground. A frame made of bars is attached to them. Outside, it is sheathed with slate. The second design is more durable.

All wooden elements should be treated with an antiseptic to prevent decay. A pit cover is made of plywood or boards. The front wall of the pit is made lower, at a level of 40-50 cm above ground level. Rigid walls allow you to cover the pit with foil or garden cover material.

Compost pit made of corrugated board

When making a compost bin from corrugated board, choose a material with an anti-corrosion coating.

Work order:

At the chosen place, a base is built from a metal or wooden bar.
The dimensions of the pit are selected for the length of the sheets, which makes it possible to make a compost bin with two or three compartments.
The base is made, as for a wooden structure.
Outside, the profile strips are fastened with self-tapping screws with gaps of 3-5 cm.
It should be borne in mind that the metal surface gets very hot during hot summer periods.
A cover of their plywood or boards is made from above. It is desirable to cover the frame with a protective compound.

Wire mesh compost bin

To make compost, you can make a cylindrical container from a metal mesh. In such a cylinder, the compost is well ventilated and does not rot.

How to make a compost bin:

To simplify, you can put a large-volume plastic bag (polyethylene) inside the basket, which is used for garbage. These baskets are easy to assemble and install anywhere. They are filled with waste like a compost pit. Also, compost can be made in special bags, which are sold in garden centers.

Concrete compost pit

A concrete compost pit has many benefits:

Thick walls maintain a positive temperature for a long time.
Such a pit is durable and reliable, not affected by adverse environmental conditions.

It is desirable to make it large, into two or even three compartments. In the first and second blocks, the compost of different seasons will mature. In the third, bags with ready-made compost are stored.

How to make a concrete compost pit:

When operating a concrete pit, it must be taken into account that the composting process is slowed down. To speed up the process, you need to manually add earthworms or commercially available special tools to it.

Other compost pit material options

Compost pit from car tires

Car tires are quite suitable for arranging a compost heap:

Compost in an iron barrel

Old iron drums are great for composting:

We cut both bottoms with a chisel and place them near the path.
We put weeds, grass cuttings, kitchen waste in a barrel.
To increase the temperature, you can paint the barrel black, pour the compost with an ammonium nitrate solution (a matchbox on a bucket of water).
We take out the finished compost from below. To do this, you need to lift the barrel with a crowbar.

To improve the design:

Using a grinder (angle grinder), you need to cut the barrel into two unequal parts and punch holes in the walls for air circulation.
Then we put them on the butt and connect with wire or rope. Cover with a lid on top.
The advantages of this design are the easy accessibility of the contents of the barrel for worms and bacteria from below.
To get ready-made compost, you just need to untie the rope, and you will receive two hundred liters of ready-made fertilizer.

Compost in a plastic barrel

The ideal compost bin material is plastic... In ordinary compost heaps, the compost takes two years to prepare. In plastic drums with a capacity of 150-200 liters, you can prepare liquid compost in two weeks.

For this:

We fill the barrel with cut grass or weeds up to half, and fill it with water to the top.
After about three days, the fermentation process will begin.
After using the solution, you can add water to the barrel again and let it brew for one week.
Having used up the liquid compost completely, the remaining grass is piled into a compost heap.

Compost pit made of bricks

The brick compost pit is made in three walls. It can be done with or without cement slurry. On cement mortar, the compost pit is made no more than 1 meter high. Ventilation slots must be left between the bricks.

A compost pit made of bricks without cement bond is convenient because it can be moved to another place if necessary.

In the compost pit, provide a place for throwing the compost mass. Make a lid from an available material. The front wall is made temporary so that it is convenient to take out the finished compost.

Compost pit made of concrete rings

In the inner cavity of the concrete ring, garden waste can be successfully stored and as a result compost can be obtained. For convenience the ring is partially buried in the ground, and after filling, cover with a lid or film material.

The disadvantages of the design include the absence of a lowered front wall. To unload the finished compost, you need to climb inside. Otherwise, very durable compost chambers are obtained from such reinforced concrete products.

Finnish compost pit

If you don't want to make a compost pit, you can purchase a composter using Finnish technology. It is modern with two containers, with a capacity of 80 liters. Its contents are mixed with a layer of peat and sawdust. You can also recycle food.

When the container is full, take it out and insert another. Due to the high concentration, the finished compost is mixed with earth or sand and fertilized with plants. The released container is washed and returned to its place.

Compost and cesspool should not be confused. Organics from the garden plot are stored in containers for composting. The remains of protein foods should be disposed of in a sump.

What can and cannot be placed in the compost pit?

Composting reduces waste in landfills and provides our vegetable gardens and orchards with additional fertilization.

In the compost pit, first of all, organic garden waste is laid, in the form of:

branches;
dry foliage;
cut grass;
weeds;
straw.

Good ingredients for a compost heap are:

food leftovers from vegetarian food;
shell of eggs;
onion peel.

You can transfer compost with manure and chicken droppings.

The prohibited ingredients of the compost heap are:

construction and household waste with a high content of phenols;
remnants of printing products;
plastic.

Leftovers of protein and oily food are not placed in the compost, as they decompose slowly and attract mice and rats.

From plant residues, weeds with ripe seeds and roots that can take root well are not put into the compost, such as:

sow thistle;
wheatgrass;
loach.

Drought-resistant plants must be dried before being placed in the compost heap so that they lose their ability to root. Sawdust can be used in moderation as it decomposes slowly and takes up nitrogen. And also do not use the feces of domestic animals and humans for composting.

Compost pit preparations

The main task of preparations containing biological activators is to accelerate the decomposition processes with the help of microorganisms.

The preparations do an excellent job with the processing of organic matter and do not allow pathogenic microflora to develop in the compost pit:

Composting can be significantly accelerated by using "Baikal EM"... This preparation contains effective microorganisms (EM).
The drug "Doctor Robik" significantly increases the number of effective microorganisms (EM) in the compost. They are engaged in the processing of organic matter into humus, and also prevent the development of pathogenic microflora and destroy the larvae of harmful insects.
The bioactivator has similar properties. The package of the Green Master bioactivator must be diluted in 20 liters of warm water, let it brew for 4 hours and water the compost heap. After 2 weeks, you need to turn the pile with a pitchfork. To prepare compost, one treatment with a bioactivator solution is enough.
Good results are obtained by the drug "Compost Boost" for composting.
Manufacturer Happy summer resident produces "Biocompostin"- a composting agent. Sanex Plus produces EcoCompost.
The manufacturer Deson Bio K produces several types of drugs:"Green universal", "Compost of one season", "Compost for the next agricultural season", "Bioactivator for compost".

Using the preparations, you can significantly speed up microbiological processes and get compost in 2-3 months.

Bioactivators for compost

Compost pit operating rules

After the construction of the compost bin and its filling, it remains to occasionally look inside and, depending on the changes taking place, correct the decomposition process.

Tips for using the composter:

During dry periods it is necessary to water the compost with plain water, preventing it from overheating, which leads to a reduction in the population of certain types of beneficial bacteria.
Loosen the compost heap at least once every two weeks., thereby ensuring the flow of oxygen into all, even the lowest, layers.
Add Effective Microorganisms to the compost content in the form of solutions and various additives.
To speed up the processes, you can add ready-made compost substrate, which contains a full range of microbiological activators.
If the pit structure does not have a top cover, then simply tighten the top with black garden cover material, which will increase the temperature and greenhouse effect inside the structure.

Summarizing

The creation of a compost pit does not require serious material investments. You can make it with your own hands from scrap materials, which are always enough in any personal plot.

Having spent a little time making a compost pit, in the future you will not have to solve the problems of disposal of garden and household waste.

Well-fertilized land always pleases with an abundant harvest of vegetables and fruits. In order to receive top dressing for the soil, it is not necessary to buy chemical fertilizers. To do this, a do-it-yourself compost pit can be built on the site. Manufacturing options are different, and it is easy to choose the one that best suits the materials, their cost and the size of the site.

Compost is an organic fertilizer obtained from plant waste or the waste products of certain animals. This is the result of biodegradation of materials under the influence of various microorganisms.

When composting in the waste layer, substances are formed that are necessary for feeding the plants - nitrogen, potassium, phosphorus and other elements, microflora dangerous to health is rendered harmless. Compost is used for all garden crops, applied in steam, in holes. This fertilizer is as effective as manure.

Attention! Not to be confused compost pit with cesspool... The second is the simplest autonomous sewage system. Fertilizer will not work out of these effluents. The only thing that can be achieved is soil pollution.

Many people refuse to build a compost pit on their site due to the fact that they are afraid of an unpleasant smell and an unaesthetic appearance. If you choose the right place, then the design will not create discomfort for residents of this and neighboring areas.

Find out how, as well as familiarize yourself with the scheme, options and best ideas, in a special article on our portal.

When choosing a place, pay attention to which direction the water flows during rains. If there is a well on the site, then the flows should not be directed in that direction. Otherwise, the water will become polluted, lose its taste, or even become completely unusable.

The direction of the wind, which is most often observed in this area, should also be taken into account. Then the smell will be minimally spread over the site. Do not forget about the interests of your neighbors.

There should be partial shade in the chosen place. If the site is under the sun, then the compost mass dries up, the decay process slows down.

There should be no fruit, coniferous or evergreen trees or shrubs near the compost pit. When waste decays, corrosive substances are released. This can harm vegetation, in particular their root system. But if a birch or alder grows on the site, then such a neighborhood will not harm. Lush crowns will cover the structure from the scorching midday sun.

Table 1. Distance from the compost pit to other elements.

Attention! The pit is located on a site lower than the well. The water table is also taken into account so that it does not flood the compost tanks.

Although SNiP indicates the minimum required distance to the well 8 m, some owners decide to play it safe, and leave a distance between objects 25-30 m.

What foods can and cannot be thrown into the compost pit

Not all waste is allowed to be composted. Into the pit allowed throw:

raw fruits, tea leaves and coffee grounds, cereals, cleaning;
straw, fresh and dry grass, leaves, needles;
parts of trees and shrubs - they are pre-crushed, unpainted waste from woodworking;
wood ash;
paper products;
second-year herbivore manure.

Forbidden use for composting:

All products are divided into green and brown... The former are the source nitrogen, the latter saturate the soil carbon... The ratio of nitrogen to carbon is considered optimal when the proportions 25 to 1. A mass of leaves and freshly cut grass, taken in half, is thrown into the pit. They will give the mixture that is optimal in terms of chemical composition.

Compost pit construction

Compost pits are made from different materials. Usually use those that are at hand. Standard pit size - 1500х3000 mm, height - from 1200 mm. A structure can be made large if there is a lot of waste.

The entire space is divided into three compartments:

for fresh waste;
for last year's waste;
for ready-made compost.

But variations are possible. So, if you achieve rapid ripening of the fertilizer, then one tank will be enough. For example, for this, 1 part of green waste is taken 25 brown, be sure to put manure. The total volume of the heap must be at least 1 cubic meter, otherwise the temperature inside will not warm up to the required indicators (in different sources it is called 45-60 ° C).

Attention! The larger the pit, the better the temperature required for the activity of microorganisms is maintained in it.

Compost pit "for the lazy" - the easiest option

In this case, no building materials are required, only a tool - shovel.

Prices for bayonet shovels

Bayonet shovel

A trench of the above dimensions is dug in the ground with a depth 0.5 m. Sand is poured at the bottom. It acts as a drain to drain excess moisture from the pit. Cut branches are placed on the sand. This layer is responsible for aeration - oxygen enrichment.

Then the waste is laid in this order:

grass;
dry leaves;
sawdust;
table waste;
manure;
weeds.

Peat is poured between the layers, watered with water.

Attention! To activate the decay process, large waste is pre-crushed.

The total heap height is 150 cm, of which 100 cm rises above the surface of the earth. Covering material or slate sheets are placed on top. In the summer, when it is too dry, the waste is watered with clean water.

Slate Compost Pit - More Efficient Layout

Such a tank can be made in as little as 1 day, and it will serve for many years. The main advantages of building material:

cheapness- you can use an old roof covering that has become unusable;
durability- asbestos-cement slabs serve up to 40 years old;
ease of installation.

Such a compost pit consists of slate sheets attached to a wooden frame.

Materials that will be required for it:

circular saw, grinder, screwdriver;
tape measure, marking pencil;
level;
slate;
frame boards;
self-tapping screws;
door handles, hinges - for the cover;
paint or varnish with anti-fungal properties, with which the inner sides of the walls of the future pit are treated.

Step-by-step instructions for making a slate compost pit

Step 1. Slate sheets are cut using a cutting tool.

Prices for angle grinders (grinders)

Angle grinders (grinders)

Step 2. They dig grooves for slate along the perimeter of the future pit.

Step 3. Cover the side of the slate, which will face the inside of the structure, with paint.

Step 4. Slate sheets are installed in the dug recesses, sprinkled with earth.

Step 5. A frame is made of boards along the outer or inner perimeter of the structure.

Step 6. Knock down the covers for the compartments from the boards, screw on the door handles. Attach door hinges and install covers. The compost pit is ready.

Such a tank can be hidden underground. Then, at the initial stage, they dig a hole of the required depth. The walls of the recess are sheathed with sheets, they are tied with wooden bars from the outside. The slate should protrude above the ground for 10-15 cm... The bars are covered with protective compounds.

Compost made of metal corrugated board

The compost box is also made of profiled sheet (corrugated sheet). It is a cladding material that is used for wall and roof decoration. It is better to take sheets with an anti-corrosion coating that protects the material from damage during the operation of the structure. Usually it is acrylic, polyester, PVC, and other materials.

The assembly is carried out in the following sequence:

From wooden or metal bars collect the frame of the desired size. In this case, it is necessary to take into account the dimensions of the sheet. It is undesirable to cut them unless absolutely necessary, so as not to destroy the protective coating. The frame is made into as many sections as there should be in the composter.
Self-tapping screws attach profile sheets to the frame.
The top board is made of plywood or boards. If you are too lazy to make a lid, then you can cover the container with sheets of the same corrugated board.

The disadvantage of this design is that it has drum effect. Therefore, it will be noisy during a rainstorm. However, as the reservoir fills, the volume will decrease. In addition, the metal gets very hot under the sun. The polymer coating can deteriorate over time, which leads to the formation of foci of corrosion. Therefore, the structure must be regularly inspected.

Video - DIY composter

Compost bin from a metal or plastic barrel - step by step instructions

The advantages of a compost tank from a barrel of this design:

simple materials that are either on hand or easy to obtain;
this design is convenient in that the barrel is simply removed from the pit thanks to the roller mechanism;
any home craftsman who owns a grinder will make such a structure;
minimal inconvenience due to unpleasant odor on the site;
the barrel will not spoil the appearance of the site;
the compost is protected from wind, excess moisture, and other adverse factors.

To make the device, you will need a barrel - metal or plastic, with a volume 50 liters or more.

To prepare such a compost tank, in addition to the container, you will need:

plywood 6 mm;
wooden beams 5x10 cm(footage depends on the size of the barrel)
4 roller;
fasteners - screws, nails.

A pit from a barrel is built in the following sequence:

Step 1. From plywood using a jigsaw or other carpentry tool cut out the lid for the container. Its diameter should be slightly larger than the diameter of the container neck.

Step 2. Cut 4 identical bars 10–12 cm long. Use charcoal or other coloring agent to wipe the edge of the barrel. Place the lid with the side facing the inside of the reservoir. A square is drawn in the resulting circle. At the tops of the figure, pieces of bars are nailed. This is necessary in order for the lid to close tightly.

Step 3. Make a rectangular frame from wooden blocks. Its length is slightly greater than the height of the tank, and its width is three quarters of its diameter.

Step 4. Attach 2 rollers to each long side of the rectangle. Fix them with screws.

Step 5. On the short side of the frame, where the bottom of the tank will be, attach the bar. This is a retaining stop that will prevent the barrel from moving downward. The timber should be in the same plane as the wheels.

Step 6. Place the hook on the outside of the barrel, and fasten on opposite sides of the hinge, two rubber bands holding the cover.

A hole is dug on the site with a depth of 10-15 cm shallower than the height of the tank. First, the frame is immersed in the pit, and then the tank.

Attention! To make the frame last longer, it can be treated with various impregnations against fungus and rot, and then painted - for example, with enamels. So the wood will be reliably protected from adverse factors.

Concrete compost pit

A more durable way to get a place for humus production on your own site is to build a compost pit out of concrete. This design will last for decades.

The construction process is simple, and consists of the following stages:

Digging a hole with the following dimensions: width - 200 cm, length - 300 cm, depth - 80 cm.
Perimeter make the formwork along the entire height, providing also a transverse bulkhead (two are possible), which will divide the space into separate tanks.
Concrete is prepared: cement-sand mixture ( 3 to 1) - 5 Kg, water - 5 l.
The concrete mixture is poured into the formwork.
The frame is knocked out of the boards. The chain-link mesh is pulled from above - this will be the cover for the structure.

Find out how to make concrete rings in a special article on our portal.

Steel mesh compost bin

To make the basket, they take a metal mesh, preferably with a polymer coating. The advantage of this design is that the compost is well ventilated and there is no decay process.

For the manufacture of the structure, the following materials will be required:

protective mesh for fences;
film or garden textiles (a large garbage bag can be used);
wire to connect the ends of the mesh.

The mesh is cut so that a cylinder of the desired diameter is obtained, and 20 cm stitching allowance. The same amount will be required for garden textiles. It is placed inside the basket. The edges are folded back over the top edge of the cylinder wall and secured with paper clips.

This is a fairly lightweight structure that is assembled in a few minutes and dismantled just as quickly. To give stability to the basket, it can be strengthened along the outer edge with wooden posts dug on 10-15 cm into the ground.

What other options are there for composter equipment

A compact composter can be made from planks. For a budget option, discarded wooden pallets, previously disassembled into parts, will come in handy.

The peculiarity of this design is that fresh and mature compost is stored in one tank. Due to the fact that there is a hole with a lifting wall at the bottom of the structure, it is easy and convenient to get the finished fertilizer. Another convenience is that there is no need to stir the substrate inside the box. Even a schoolboy can knock down such a box.

Attention! Wooden elements are covered with impregnations, as is the case with the frame for the compost barrel.

If you can't do it yourself, you can install an ordinary special plastic container on the site. They are produced in a capacity from 400 to 1000 l, which allows you to choose the most suitable option for your needs. However, the price for them can be quite high - up to 10 thousand rubles. It is for this reason that many owners of summer cottages prefer homemade products from scrap materials.

Prices for a plastic container for receiving compost

Punch

A more durable option is to use ready-made concrete rings. Preliminarily, a recess is dug on the site along the diameter of the structure. Then the ring is installed and partially buried in the ground. A shield knocked down from boards is used as a cover. You can do with the usual covering material.

However, a composter made of concrete rings has one drawback: it does not have a lowered wall, which would make it possible to conveniently load waste or take compost. Therefore, for such operations, they are taken inside the structure.

Video - DIY concrete ring for a composter

How to care for a compost pit

In order to be able to prepare high-quality fertilizer, the compost pit should be properly looked after.

The waste is periodically poured with water. This will ensure the proper decay process. The pile should be moist, but not wet. Excess moisture for bacteria is no less dangerous than lack of moisture.

The heap is stirred once a month to provide oxygen. This contributes to the burning of food. If there is no way to dig up the waste, they are thoroughly pierced with a pitchfork.

Owners of summer cottages and household plots should not give up the compost pit. This is not only an opportunity to obtain affordable fertilizers, but also a respect for the environment. After all, burning dry grass and leaves is harmful to nature. The law provides for a fine for such actions. A compost pit solves the problem of waste removal and disposal.

A compost pit made from organic waste is an integral part of a summer cottage or personal plot. If you have your own garden, a person tries to cultivate healthy vegetation and fruits that do not contain nitrates on fertile soil. For this purpose, they use organic fertilizers obtained from compost. The purpose of this article is to tell garden owners how to make a compost pit from inexpensive materials at hand.

DIY instructions for making a compost pit (box)

Making a compost pit with your own hands is not difficult. Its arrangement involves the use of lightweight and inexpensive components. In the example below, a compost bin is created from pallets used in the construction industry for folding consumables. You can purchase such pallets for a small amount or even get it for free by picking them up after unloading building materials.

making a compost pit with your own hands. Photo

If you do not yet know how to create a compost pit with your own hands, the step-by-step instructions below will tell you in detail about this procedure.

First thing choose a place, the most suitable for arranging a compost heap. This site should be located away from residential buildings and preferably in an area where wind predominates. This will eliminate the likelihood of an unpleasant odor from the compost in the yard.

Follow drawing provided as an example to properly create a compost bin. Remember that it must have a presentable appearance, be easy to use, easily dismantled when filled with organic waste.

do-it-yourself compost pit manufacturing options. Photo

Disassemble prepared wooden pallets by removing the fasteners (nails). The result of this work will be the receipt of edged boards-shalyovka.

Use a circular saw to divide all boards for workpieces about 1 m long. Of these, the compost box will be created.

In order to assemble a one-piece structure from separate boards, two of them should cut out jigsaw rectangular holes. The photos and videos attached to the instructions will help the master navigate how to make cutouts in the remaining boards in order to accurately connect them to the two cross beams.

do it yourself compost pit step by step with a photo

Mounting all boards (except for the front ones) are carried out vertically, and they are fastened with mounting glue. The first (front) board is equipped at a slight angle to the entire structure, and without the use of an adhesive solution. Compliance with this condition is necessary to facilitate the disassembly of the structure. The device of a compost bin of the described type allows you to easily rearrange it to another place, disassemble it after filling it with organic waste and vegetation residues.

In order for the compost bin made of wooden pallets to be stable, during its installation in the designated area, you should align bottom boards of the finished box using a level.

As you can see, very little effort needs to be put into creating a compost pit from waste materials from the construction industry. The finished compost bin looks decent, and makes it possible to dispose of all unnecessary vegetation from your own garden plot. Gradually condensing in such a container, and being under the influence of moisture and putrefactive bacteria, the vegetation turns into a high quality organic fertilizer, ideal for feeding garden vegetation.

How to make a compost pit. Video

DIY compost bin

The issue related to the disposal of plant waste in a personal plot worries most gardeners. It is not worth taking them outside the garden, because with the right approach, organic matter can become excellent fertilizer... It is better to put unnecessary vegetation, as noted above, in a compost pit, which should be voluminous. We propose to consider the option of building a compost pit with your own hands, step-by-step instructions for which will help carry out the procedure even for a beginner in such a business.

As an example, take the construction compost bin, consisting of three sections.

Set 8 wooden columns, having previously treated the lower part of each of them with a protective compound (the one that will be located underground). Fuel oil, tar or used engine oil can be used as a protective solution.

If fence on your backyard is strong and reliable, then its canvas can be used as a support for one of the sides of the compost bin bars (as shown in the photo). Actually, this option makes the task easier, eliminating the need to dig a few more holes for the posts.

The next stage in creating a structure is the device of sectional partitions... To do this, nail several boards to the supports, leaving small cracks for ventilation between them. It should also be noted that in the two compartments of the drawer small doors, therefore, its front part should be sheathed with boards only up to half the height.

The third compartment is equipped with a large door, and in this regard, it is worth nailing only one board in the lower, front part of the box.

The next stage of work is installation covers. The end sections of the sectional partitions, as well as the rear and front walls, are reinforced with crossbeams.

do-it-yourself compost box. Photo

The doors are hung, which also function as the covers of the compost box. It is already clear that one large and two small doors will be located in front.

When creating a wooden compost box, make sure that the wood does not become an integral component of organic fertilizers made from vegetable waste. The process of compost maturation involves the gradual decomposition of organic matter, and the tree also belongs to the components of natural, organic origin. And therefore, when designing a three-section compost bin from boards, it is desirable to soak every detail well. special composition deep penetration. It will protect the tree from moisture, putrefactive processes and harmful insects. It is not difficult to buy a solution for the complex protection of wooden surfaces now, but it should be remembered that it must be non-toxic. Then the organic fertilizer (compost) will be of high quality.

After the boards are soaked, the finished compost bin colored in a color acceptable to you. It is advisable to select a paint that is non-toxic. It must be highly resistant to temperature extremes and not fade in the sun. Apply it to the box in two layers.

The last stage in creating the structure is to hang the latches and handles. The plank compost pit is completely ready to use!

Compost pit. Her equipment options

Now there are many different technologies for building compost pits with your own hands. Each owner of a summer house or country house with a land plot chooses the type of construction that is ideal for the specific conditions of the area. Here are some of the most common types of compost pits equipment.

Option 1. It is rarely used, and mainly in those cases when ready-made compost is supposed to be used no earlier than after 1.5-2 years. The essence of the work here is to dig a hole in the designated area of the terrain. It should be similar in shape to a well, but not so deep. The walls of the compost pit must be strengthened so that the soil does not collapse. The peculiarity of the pit prepared in this way is that in it the raw material for fertilization will ripen naturally, without human intervention. And therefore it is worth taking care of creating optimal conditions for the preparation of organic fertilizers. The walls of the finished pit begin to be sheathed at a height of 15-25 cm from the bottom, while no material is placed on the bottom itself. This will allow microorganisms and worms to penetrate from the soil into the folded vegetation debris unhindered.

Advice. Before placing the plant mass in the hole, loosen its bottom well, and also equip a ventilation outlet in the form of a pipe. After heavy rains or heavy watering, cover the compost pit with plastic wrap. This activates the work of microorganisms, and the overheating of organic matter will go faster.

If possible, it is better to create a compost pit in this way outside the adjoining plot, in a forest belt.

Option 2... In this case, the compost pit is built right in the garden. Many land owners note that this option is more convenient in the sense that the unloading of organic fertilizers from the pit is carried out as needed. The basis of the structure is the formwork, and it can be made from any available materials. These can be plastic barrels or a box assembled from separate boards. The presented method also involves providing access for worms and microorganisms to the thickness of organic residues. And therefore, the soil is loosened before laying the vegetation, and the formwork structure is slightly deepened (by about 20-30 cm). The need for natural air circulation in the created box causes cracks to be left between the plank structural elements, or the formation of holes in plastic surfaces.

Option 3. Another method of preparing organic fertilizers from plant residues is the creation of the so-called pile, or compost heap. This technology is considered the simplest, but when using it, hygiene requirements are not observed. When choosing this method of composting in the backyard, the optimal area is selected, on which a substrate of gravel, sand or dry grass is immediately made. Plant waste is placed on top of it, and they are waited for overheating. Organic fertilizer reaches full readiness in two or more years. The difficulty lies in the fact that the heap has to be periodically mixed, and before the onset of winter, it is still necessary to warm it up so that microorganisms do not die under the influence of cold.

So, there are many options for equipping a compost pit, and the difference between them is both in the materials used and in the size and features of its design. In any case, with the right approach, creating it yourself will not be difficult even for a novice master.

Slate Compost Pit

A do-it-yourself compost pit for its creation requires durable materials from which one could make the walls of a box in which plant residues will be stored. In the previous sections, the possibilities of forming such structures from planks, building pallets or plastic drums have already been described. There is another good way - a compost bin made from slate waste... In the household, many zealous owners of summer cottages will surely find such. Slate leaves make an excellent base for the walls of the compost bin. In addition, a compost pit made of such material will turn out to be reliable and durable. To create a slate box with your own hands, we recommend doing the work in the following sequence:

Decide on the exact parameters constructions. Remember that the pit should be sized so that all the plant waste collected from the site over two seasons (and sometimes more time) is placed inside it. Considering that a small pile of vegetation residues (tops, fallen leaves) is about 0.25 cubic meters in volume, then a pit for their processing can be made 1m * 1m * 1m in size. In this case, there will still be a little room for food waste.

After selecting the territory, you will need to make a small deepening in the soil (by 20-30 cm).

In the corners of the structure and in the central part are installed racks, created from thick branches of trees or ordinary metal pipes of small diameter.

With the help of prepared slate sheets, walls compost bin.

The compost matures in the pit for two years, and the slate partition, located in the middle of the box, makes it possible to use the inner space of the pit continuously. That is, the result of the work is a two-section slate box, each of the compartments of which is used in turn.

List of requirements for the compost bin

When studying the question of how to make a compost pit from certain materials, do not forget about the requirements for such structures. First of all, when making a compost box, you need to take into account that organic matter needs a constant flow of air to mature. Therefore, on the sides of the structure, there must be ventilation holes... To prevent the nutrients from the created organic fertilizer from being washed into the ground, it is advisable to cover the compost pit when it rains. cover. Instead of a lid, you can use an ordinary plastic film, but in this case, it will need to be somehow fixed at the edges in order to avoid being blown away by the wind. It should also be noted that the compost ripens faster from the bottom, therefore easy access to the lower part should be provided. In the diagram above, you can see how the simplest compost bin works. Note that the boards located on the side are removable, and the dimensions of the structure can be changed. Alternatively, you can consider creating a drawer with removable frontal boards.

There is also a way to create a simpler opening box. In it, the loops will be made of durable rubber strips or other elastic material. They are well fixed on the surface of the boards knocked together.

An economical option for creating a compost bin will be a product made of wooden pallets, the device of which does not require special skills and a lot of time.

What can and cannot be thrown into the compost pit?

Having figured out how a compost pit is made from different consumables, one cannot ignore and recommendations as to which waste can be thrown into it and which cannot.

A self-constructed compost pit will fully justify the purpose of its creation if the following types of organic waste are collected in it:

Fallen tree bark, old leaves and small branches, needles, grass roots and small tree roots.
Ripe dung and bird guano.
Grass and mowed weeds.
Leftovers from herbal tea or coffee.
Peelings of vegetables and fruits, missing berries, fruits and vegetables.
Ash from wood burning.
Wood shavings, straw, sawdust, hay.
Napkins, cardboard, paper bags and the paper itself.

Recommendation. Sprinkle fresh loose earth over the top to help the thick layer of grass in the compost pit decompose faster. If this is not done, the process of overheating the grass will drag on for a period of six months to a year.

As for those components that cannot be put into the compost pit, their list includes:

Potato and tomato tops. Often it is infected with late blight spores, and laying it in compost will further lead to the spread of the disease throughout the garden area, and the defeat of new seasonal vegetation by late blight.
Products of inorganic origin, which will not decompose under the influence of natural factors. These include metal, polyethylene bags, rubber and synthetics, components with a plastic base.
Vegetation generously fertilized with chemicals.
The branches are thick and take a long time to decay.
Weed seeds that have already passed the ripening stage.
Feces of animals living in the house. They may contain inclusions in the form of bones or helminth eggs.

How to properly operate a compost pit?

In the previous sections of our article, we found out how to make a compost pit from improvised components, as well as what can be put into it and what is undesirable to put in the pit. Now it remains to identify those simple requirements that will help to properly operate the structure for storing compost throughout the year. Here they are:

Try to exercise periodically loosening compost with a garden pitchfork. This will provide oxygen supply to the decomposing organic matter. Stirring the waste will help speed up the decomposition process.
Compost heap follows occasionally pour water... If dry and hot weather is established outside, then the amount of watering of the ripening compost should be increased. With regular moistening, the contents of the pit will rot better and faster. But dry compost completely stops its decomposition.
If there is such a possibility, it is advisable to periodically lay it in the thickness of rotting vegetation. Californian worms. They will not only loosen the contents of the compost, but also partially recycle it.
It is advisable to lay on top of the waste in the pit dark plastic wrap... Thanks to it, a greenhouse effect will arise in the thickness of the raw biomaterial, and as a result, the temperature inside the heap will increase significantly. Burnout of the folded vegetation will occur faster. At the same time, the presence of a film ensures the preservation of a moist environment in the compost, and prevents the growth of weeds there. The maturation period of the compost heap covered with foil is 3-4 months. If the pit with organic matter is not covered, the process of waste maturation will take a whole year.
If possible, it is recommended to add to the compost pit special preparations, accelerating the decomposition of components. Among the most famous such compositions are Baikal EM-1, Saneks EcoCompost, Kompostar, Kompostin, Embionik.

With proper arrangement of the compost pit and regular maintenance of it, owners of household plots will be able to receive high-quality fertilizer that does not contain harmful substances.

DIY compost pit. Video

Compost is a fertilizer made from organic raw materials, suitable for enriching the soil in flower beds, vegetable beds and under fruit trees in the garden. It loosens clay soil and retains moisture in sandy soil.

Gardeners usually buy compost from garden shops. But with some effort and patience, you can get "home" compost.

High quality compost comes from organic waste:

The more varied the organic waste, the better the compost will be

unsuitable for food (rotten), but not affected by diseases of fruits (berries, fruits, vegetables, cereals);
used tea leaves and coffee grounds;
straw and healthy plants (grass, flowers);
foliage, branches, bark, roots and ash of trees and shrubs;
sawdust;
needles;
small pieces of waste paper (napkins, shredded newspapers, packaging, cardboard);
fragments of natural fabrics (cotton, flax, wool, silk);
second-year manure of herbivorous farm animals (cows, horses).

It is forbidden to throw into the compost pit:

excrement from dogs and cats;
bones;
insect pests (for example, beetles - dung and Colorado);
potato and tomato tops;
tops treated with chemical fertilizers;
perennial rhizome weeds;
coal ash;
synthetic waste (rubber, plastic and cellophane, scrap metal).

Waste can be simply piled up in the most inconspicuous corner of the site, or you can prepare a neat pit for them, which you will not be ashamed to show even to guests.

Making such a compost pit with your own hands is not a big deal. For this, the ubiquitous materials and a little patience are enough.

For information on how to build a doghouse on your own, read in.

Tools and materials for work

The compost bin is often constructed from planks or blocks.

For this you will need:

circular saw, jigsaw, circular saw or ordinary hacksaw - for cutting wood;
chisel;
screwdriver;
roulette;
spirit level (or level);
garden shovel or drill;
hammer and nails;
screws (ideally galvanized);
metallic profile;
boards from any tree species;
dye;
door handles and latches.

To protect wood from moisture and insects:

moisture resistant enamel;
varnish with antifungal impregnation.

A compost pit with walls filled with concrete will serve you faithfully for a long time.

To make concrete you will need:

river sand;
crushed stone or gravel;
cement;
water.

Sometimes you don't want to spend a lot of time and energy on making a compost pit. In this case, it is easier to purchase ready-made containers and barrels for compost made of plastic. Such composters have an attractive appearance, but they will also cost more.

The advantages of a plastic composter:

sealed container prevents leaks and, as a result, contamination of drinking water;
thanks to the ventilation system, the water in the container does not stagnate.

When installing a plastic tank, it is imperative to add drugs to the raw materials that accelerate the decomposition of organic matter, or you can add earthworms to the future humus.

Step-by-step instructions for creating a pit

Deep compost pit

Compost in such a pit takes longer to mature, and it is more difficult to mix it, but sometimes this is the only possible option.

Dig a compost pit where, after heavy rains, water will not flow to the well. Decay products, getting into water intended for drinking, will affect its taste and health safety.

A deep hole is better because the compost will not spoil the general appearance of the site, however, it takes longer to cook in such a hole.

In order for the organic mass to receive the amount of oxygen necessary for decomposition, the pit is dug as follows.

Step 1

The soil is removed no more than 1 m deep, 2 m long and 1.5 m wide. If you overdo it with the depth of the pit, then it will be difficult to extract the ripe humus.

Step 2

20 cm recede from each wall of the pit and four columns are dug into the corners.

Step 3

The columns are connected with planks, which are fixed 5 cm apart so that all layers of compost are freely supplied with oxygen. It turns out a buried wooden box.

For an overview of the types of small architectural forms for landscape design, see.

Do you want to plant flower beds for zoning your site? Learn to choose plants for.

Step 4

The finished pit is divided in half with a wooden board, so that only one half can then be filled.

Step 5

A layer of thick branches (10-15 cm), bark or straw is laid on the bottom of the pit. The resulting drainage will take away excess moisture and allow the raw materials at the bottom of the pit to ventilate.

The bottom and sides of the pit are not covered with anything, so that earthworms can freely penetrate into it, helping to form humus.

It is important to maintain a certain level of moisture in the pit. To do this, do not forget to water the compost heap from a watering can as it dries and periodically loosen the humus. Cover the pile with plastic wrap to create a sauna effect.

Now it remains to immerse suitable raw materials in the pit, from which a first-class fertilizer will later be obtained.

Organic waste is dumped into one part of the compost pit. After a while, they are thrown to the other half. This contributes to the saturation of the contents of the pit with oxygen.

Concrete compost pit

The most durable compost pit is made from concrete. In such a pit, the side walls are poured with cement mortar, which increases its cost.

A concrete compost pit is a durable structure that will last for decades

Step 1

It is necessary to remove the topsoil and dig a rectangular depression 3 m long, 2 m wide and 60–80 cm deep.

Step 2

Now we make the formwork and fill the walls with a solution of crushed stone, sand and cement.

To do this, pour gravel into a ten-liter bucket and gradually pour water into it. If the bucket contains 5 liters of water (half the volume of the bucket), then you must adhere to a 2: 1 ratio (for a full bucket of gravel - 5 liters of sand).

Do not overdo it with water, otherwise numerous pores will form on the surface of the concrete. When pouring concrete into walls, it should be borne in mind that the most convenient compost pits are obtained by dividing the space into two sections.

Step 3

We cover the compost pit with a netting or a metal frame lid.

If you decide to make a wooden cover, then you can drill several holes in it for ventilation.

The main thing is that the cover can be easily removed - the contents of the compost pit will have to be mixed at least once a week. One wall must also be made easily removable. Otherwise, there will be difficulties in extracting the finished compost.

Sometimes they don't dig a hole for compost, but prepare it in special boxes.

Three-section compost bin

The most rational option for storing compost will be a box, divided into three specialized sections:

compartment for laying waste;
compartment for turning over humus;
compartment for matured compost.

You can make such a box from wooden boards yourself in just a few steps.

Step 1

We bury 8 wooden blocks in the ground. To protect the tree from decay, pre-lubricate with tar, old engine oil or fuel oil those parts of the pegs that end up in the soil.

We install eight wooden posts, pre-processing them

You can attach four side bars to the fence - then you don't need to dig four holes for them, and you don't have to make the back wall of the box.

Step 2

We make partitions by connecting the pegs with boards. It is necessary to nail the boards so that there are gaps between them for free passage of air.

The front part of the first two compartments of the future box needs to be sheathed with boards to the middle of the height in order to then make small doors in them. In the last section, the door will be large, so we only nail one board from below.

Step 3

We strengthen the partitions and the end parts of the front and rear walls by nailing the crossbeams. We attach the doors, which will be the lid at the same time.

In the front of the box we hang two small doors and one large one.

So that the box itself does not begin to decompose and does not become part of the future fertilizer, wooden parts must be pre-treated with an impregnating solution that protects against moisture and insects. The impregnation can be purchased at the store. A non-toxic agent should be chosen.

Step 4

The box treated with impregnation is covered in two layers of paint (with the second - after the first has completely dried). You can choose the color of the paint according to your taste - you only need to combine it with the general landscape design.

When choosing paint, keep in mind that the box will be constantly exposed to sunlight and temperature changes. It is necessary to apply paint in 2 layers

Step 5

We attach fittings to the box - handles and latches. The box is ready.

Compost storage facilities are usually erected for several years. Therefore, it makes sense to concrete the bottom of the box, and line it with drainage on top. You can put plastic shields on the bottom.

You will appreciate that the efforts to make a compost pit or bin are well spent when you feel that you have stopped wasting physical strength to remove large volumes of garbage from your infield. Now it is enough to add organic waste to the refined compost heap.

If you follow the compost pit wisely (sift the fertilizer on time, add new raw materials to it), then you will have fresh compost all year round, and you will not be forced to prepare the sourdough again.