Connect a wall air conditioner in your home yourself. How to install a split system yourself? Do-it-yourself split-system installation: how to do everything right

Installing an air conditioner is a rather complex undertaking that requires, if not the presence of experience in carrying out such work, then at least thorough theoretical training. In more than half of the cases, problems with air conditioning appear due to improper installation and errors in the process of connecting the system. Even the most expensive and modern device will not be able to fully realize its potential if its installation is performed in violation of the technology.

The traditional split-system includes an external unit, which is located outside the window, and an internal unit. In some cases, more than 1 block is installed. Such combinations are known as multisplit systems.

Each element of the system performs its own functions. So, the outdoor unit is responsible for condensation, while the indoor unit acts as an evaporator. The blocks are connected using a line of pipes and wires. Freon circulates through the tubes. The system also includes a drain tube. It is connected to the outdoor unit. It is responsible for the removal of moisture condensed during the operation of the installation. According to the rules, this tube must be connected to the sewer system.

Air conditioning systems are available for sale for every taste and request. However, in terms of their composition and connection technology, they practically do not differ from each other.

Before proceeding with the installation of blocks, you need to decide on a number of important points.

1. First, decide on the side of the world that the condenser unit will face.
2. Secondly, you need to install the material from which the walls of the house are made. In accordance with this moment, a suitable fastener will be selected. Additionally, certain changes in the installation process of the system are made by the weight of the blocks.

It is important to ensure the possibility of normal access to the units for preventive maintenance and repair activities. The outdoor unit must be protected from atmospheric precipitation, icing and other adverse effects.

When choosing the capacity of the future split system, take into account the operational and other important characteristics of the home. First of all, consider the orientation of the apartment or house to the cardinal points. Also of great importance is the number of people inhabiting the dwelling, the total power of electrical appliances, the number of heating radiators, the presence of other ventilation systems and devices.

Before proceeding with the installation of the outdoor unit, you need to make sure that the strength of the balcony fence or wall is sufficient to support the weight of the product. The most powerful models weigh up to 60 kg or more. On average, household outdoor units weigh 10-15 kg and usually there are no problems with their placement. The wall and all used fasteners must have at least two times the safety factor.

If there is external insulation, be sure to make sure that the brackets are not attached to the thermal insulation, but directly to the wall material.

Quite often, aerated concrete is used in modern housing construction. This is an excellent material with high thermal insulation properties, however, unfortunately, it cannot boast of great strength. If external walls your houses are built of aerated concrete, you should refrain from installing the air conditioner directly on the wall.

It is not recommended to hang the unit on a ventilated facade. since in the course of its operation, quite strong vibration and noise can be generated. In the situations described, the installation of the unit should be carried out using a special damping seal, previously fixed to the wall. The air conditioner itself rarely produces noise more than 25-30 dB, therefore, in houses with walls made of a material denser than aerated concrete, no inconveniences usually arise.

Any distortion during installation external block are unacceptable. At each stage of installation, you need to check the horizontal position of the product using a building level. Deviations from the horizontal will lead to a violation of the circulation of freon or other used refrigerant.

If possible, the air conditioner should be installed in such a place that the wind blows it from all sides, but at the same time it is protected from atmospheric precipitation and other negative influences. The best option is to place the unit under a pre-installed canopy or at least on a balcony. Inhabitants of the upper floors apartment buildings can install the outdoor unit on the roof. It is only important to ensure that the main line has a total length of no more than 15-20 m. Otherwise, significant losses of cold will be noted in the system, and the air conditioner will consume electricity for nothing.

Take care of correct arrangement condensed moisture drain. Regulations require this tube to be connected to a sewer. However, this requirement is almost never met, and moisture simply drips onto the ground under the window. In such a situation, you need to worry at least about the fact that the water does not drip on passers-by.

The regulations require that the distance between the outdoor unit and the wall surface is at least 10 cm. The problem is that the compressor must be sufficiently blown from all directions. If it is installed closer than 10 cm to the wall, the airflow will be insufficient in summer, which will lead to a breakdown of the unit.

Installation of an outdoor unit is associated with a certain danger, because these are high-rise works after all. Therefore, installation can be carried out exclusively with the necessary insurance, or it is better to entrust it to professional installers altogether.

Indoor unit installation procedure

Indoors, the installation of the corresponding block and the laying of the line are carried out. Special attention should be paid to the process of arranging electrical wiring. Household air conditioners consume about 2 kW of electricity or more. Make sure that the wiring in your apartment or house can withstand such a load. If she is not capable of this, lay an individual line from the shield with a separate fuse. This will protect the wiring from overheating and your property from fire.

Route the line from the outdoor air conditioning unit to the location of the indoor unit. The line can be run outside or inside. With an external laying, it hides in a plastic box, in accordance with internal installation the highway must be sunk into the wall.

Be careful when choosing a place for placing the indoor unit. The farther the blocks are removed from each other, the less efficient the system will be and the higher the energy losses will be.

The indoor unit should be located so that there are no objects near it that could interfere with the normal flow of cooled air. Appliances, curtains and other items that are at the same height with the unit must be at least 3 m away from it.

The unit must not be placed directly above the heating radiator. The place of installation must be such that the installation can be easily reached for repair and maintenance work. The distance between the unit and the ceiling should be at least 20-25 cm. It is not recommended to install the air conditioner over appliances and furniture.

The air conditioner must be installed so that the cold air discharged during operation does not blow directly onto the person. Otherwise, bronchitis and tonsillitis will not keep you waiting long.

The indoor unit can be wall-mounted or ceiling structure... The latter are extremely rare. However, regardless of the type of system, it is necessary to ensure the most correct and reliable fastening... Installation is carried out using brackets and screws. Brackets must be checked for strength.

After connecting the outdoor and indoor units, it is necessary to remove moisture and air from the line. This process is known as vacuum. Special equipment is used to pump out air and water.

Diy sequential connection of the air conditioner

The installation of the air conditioner is carried out in several stages. First, the electrical wiring is laid. Further an external block of the system is installed. The technology requires it to be placed at least 180-200 cm above ground level. This requirement is relevant for owners of private houses and residents of apartments located on the first floor.

In the outer wall holes are drilled for laying communications. The diameter of these holes should be 500-600 mm. Brackets are installed, due to which the block will be secured. A special waterproofing glass is inserted into the prepared hole and the connection lines are laid directly.

Next you need install the indoor unit. The maximum allowable distance between these two elements is 20 m. The optimal distance is 7-12 m. Specific recommendations are given in the equipment manual, be sure to study it before installation. Install the brackets and fix the air conditioning indoor unit.

In the end, all that remains is to lay the wires, due to which the functioning of the system will be ensured. Mount the box. It, as already noted, can be internal or external. Connect the electric wires and tubes for freon. Vacuum the system. For this, special equipment is used. The procedure itself lasts an average of 45-60 minutes.

After completing the vacuum, perform a test run of the air conditioner. Professionals at this stage use special software and hardware equipment. If it is absent, at least observe the operation of the system and the state of the electrical network for some time.

Basic connection errors and their elimination

Mistakes made during the installation of an air conditioner entail many different troubles. However, the services of professional installers are becoming more expensive every year, and that's all. more people trying to save money are trying to install the air conditioner on their own. This, as already noted, is a rather difficult and very responsible job, which has many features and requires taking into account a wide variety of nuances.

1. One of the most common mistakes is pipe laying with unacceptable and / or repeated kinks... Because of this, the load on the compressor will increase, which will not have the most favorable effect on the operation of the system.
2. The outdoor unit cannot be installed on a glazed balcony. Previously, recommendations were given for its installation in this room, but they are relevant only for non-glazed balconies. It is important that normal air circulation is maintained and that the unit is blown from all sides.
3. The air conditioner must not be installed where any kind of installation that generates high-frequency electromagnetic vibrations is in operation. Such equipment includes various welding machines, machine tools, etc.
4. It is important to maintain the maximum evenness of the installation of the blocks. If this rule is violated, the resulting condensation will simply drain onto the floor, which will cause many inconveniences. As already noted, the air conditioner cannot be installed directly above the radiators.

If these and any other mistakes were made and led to undesirable consequences, it is necessary to take appropriate measures to eliminate the violations. In the event of a draft from the air conditioner, it is usually sufficient to change the direction of the air flow by adjusting the flaps.

When the system is turned on in heating mode, ice is often found on the outdoor unit. The reason for this is usually that the system does not have an automatic defrost function. To remove ice, it is enough to turn on the equipment for cooling for a while. The air conditioner heats up and the ice disappears.

If the air conditioner stops cooling normally, you need to check the filters. They require regular cleaning. Detailed recommendations on this occasion are usually given in the instructions.

If water starts to drip from the indoor unit, the cause of such a problem in most cases is a strong clogging of the drainage channel. The resulting ice plugs also lead to this. It is impossible to eliminate this kind of blockage on your own without the necessary skills. It is recommended to urgently call a wizard who can properly warm up the system and correct the situation.

Abnormal noises during system operation usually indicate an imbalance in the fan or severe wear on the bearings. An exceptionally qualified master can also cope with this problem.

If you find that the air conditioner has begun to overheat, you should call a technician to check the level of freon and the tightness of the system.

Thus, self-installation and connection of an air conditioner is a completely feasible job. But you need to tune in in advance that this event is not easy. Follow the instructions in everything and eliminate the emerging troubles in a timely manner. Then the air conditioner will serve as long as possible, fully performing all the tasks assigned to it.

Happy work!

Video - How to install the air conditioner yourself

Air conditioning systems have long been transformed from luxury items in the offices and homes of oligarchs, into an affordable and virtually indispensable attribute of any room in which there are people. In addition, rooms are equipped with climatic systems in which equipment that is demanding on temperature conditions is installed. For example, server hardware.

Price modern system not so high, high-quality equipment can be purchased without any loans, within the same salary. Taking into account the hot summer even beyond the Urals, we can say that at least 50% of the housing stock is equipped with air conditioning, and this figure is confidently moving towards 100%.

Since modern air conditioning systems are standardized, their installation is not particularly difficult. However, the cost of work increases costs by 30-50%. Therefore, thrifty owners do-it-yourself air conditioner installation is practiced.

Possible limitations

There are no special requirements for such work, the rules for installing an air conditioner are usually regulated by the requirements of the SES (they may differ in each region). In addition, some municipalities may impose restrictions on aesthetics. For example, in historical centers, or in buildings that are classified as cultural heritage (or are historical monuments), local authorities may establish special rules for installing air conditioners on the facades of buildings. Often, such restrictions generally prohibit changing the appearance of an architectural structure. In such cases, climate systems with external modules are mounted on the roof (provided that they cannot be seen).

From a technical point of view, there are no additional difficulties, except that the line with freon will be significantly longer (which means the cost of installation work will increase). One more possible problem- lack of protection from vandals and intruders (thieves). When the outdoor unit is located on the wall of a building, it is not available for external intervention.

Sometimes, literal fulfillment of such requirements leads to an aesthetic absurdity.

In some cases, the problem of organizing the climate (especially if it is an independent installation of the air conditioner) is solved by the selection of models:

• window air conditioner does not change the appearance of the historical building so much;
• floor systems are not visible from the outside at all.

We will consider all the ways how to install an air conditioner with our own hands, with the exception of the ducted climate system.

For reference: duct air conditioning assumes a separate hardware room with a powerful cooling system. Air ducts diverge from this room ( ventilation system) to each apartment (office).

The safety requirements for the installation of outdoor units are also taken into account. Heavy equipment placed at a height of several tens of meters is a potential hazard if dropped. Therefore, the mounting brackets must be reliable.

The electrical wiring diagram for the air conditioner must comply with the Electrical Installation Rules (PUE), like any powerful electrical appliance. In addition, energy consumption cannot exceed the technical conditions (TU) of the input connection of the facility. Before purchasing, you need to calculate the total power of your electrical appliances, and compare the result with the restrictions set by the company that supplies the electricity. It is advisable that there is no need to turn off the climate system when turning on the boiler or iron. Otherwise, it can lead to overloads and emergencies.

Consider the main types of air conditioners, taking into account the peculiarities of installation and connection

Despite the wide variety of air conditioning systems, they can be divided into 3 main groups (excluding centralized ventilation and cooling systems):

Floor air conditioner (second name - mobile)

From a technical point of view, there should be no questions about how to install a floor-standing air conditioner. It is a self-contained device, usually on casters. Such a unit can be installed anywhere, having fulfilled the condition for the free space around the ventilation openings.

This type of air conditioner, by definition, is connected independently, since there is no installation work as a class. But there is one feature that is determined by the principle of operation of any cooling device.

The air conditioner does not generate cold out of nothing (otherwise it would be contrary to the Law of Conservation of Energy). It divides the mass of air into hot and cold. That is, the working stream becomes colder, and the waste stream becomes warmer. Let's take a refrigerator as an example. The generated cold remains inside, in a sealed enclosure. And the excess heat is discharged into the room, around the radiator on the back wall.

In the case of an air conditioner, these two streams will inevitably mix, keeping average temperature in room. Therefore, the "excess" heat must be removed somewhere. For example, on the street. To do this, the floor-standing air conditioner has an air duct (sleeve), which must be connected to the outlet flange outside the room.

If the sleeve is simply brought out into the window, warm air will be drawn into the room, dramatically reducing efficiency. Therefore, the hole must be airtight.

The ideal option is the provided section in the window. If you order a double-glazed unit, and in the future plan to purchase a mobile air conditioner, stipulate this in the terms of reference. If this is not possible, you can install a diffuser in the window. Most owners metal-plastic windows may argue: modern frames do not have classic vents. For this, special inserts are provided in the opening full-size transoms.

It looks primitive, but it works 100%. The main thing is to provide a reliable lock for the position of the slightly open window.

In addition to the formation of "extra" warm air, any air conditioner has another by-product: condensation. The illustration shows the correct installation of a mobile air conditioner with your own hands:

Pay attention to the lower element - the condensate collection pan. The design assumes that the water will naturally evaporate, restoring the humidity in the room.

Information: when the warm room air passes through the honeycomb of the evaporator (cold radiator), moisture remains on the metal and flows into the pan. Not only is the air dehumidified, the liquid must be put somewhere.

In stationary air conditioners, a drain hose is provided through which condensate flows into the sewer or onto the street (everyone saw water dripping from the outdoor unit). But the mobile air conditioner stands on the floor and it is impossible to provide drainage. Therefore, the condition of the pallet requires constant monitoring. Otherwise, your parquet or carpet will be hopelessly damaged.

Advantages of a mobile air conditioner:

• There is no concept of installation and assembly work.
• Can be quickly installed in any room.
• No wall drilling required.

Flaws:

• Low efficiency.
• Indoor noise.
• Condensation must be monitored.

Window air conditioner (monoblock)

Just like the mobile one, this unit is made in one housing. Only the evaporator and condenser (hot part) are located on opposite sides of the unit. Correct installation assumes that the hot radiator is outside and the warm exhaust air does not enter the conditioned room. The illustration shows how the internal and external volumes are separated inside the housing.

The partition inside the monoblock, ideally, should be in the same plane with the wall in which the air conditioner is installed. If this installation is not possible, provide free space around the ventilation openings. Structurally, there are four of them:

• drawing in air from the room to pass through the cooler;
• outlet of cooled air into the room;
• outside air intake for cooling the hot condenser;
• outlet of heated air to the street.

These streams do not mix in the body, thanks to the same baffle. The condensate flows into a sump and is discharged from the body to the street.

Where to install the monoblock

This type is called windowed for a reason. Typical place for installation - a window or a special opening in window frame... Of course, the ideal location is a separate opening in the wall of the building. However, from a technical point of view, it is quite difficult to fill such a niche. Therefore, you have to sacrifice the glazing area.

How to install a window air conditioner safely? If it is possible to change the window configuration, the best place is a durable window sill. Again, when replacing old windows with double-glazed windows, a deaf diffuser must be provided, which can be removed for the summer and returned to its place in winter. So the air conditioner will be more intact (room storage), and there will be no extra cracks in the cold season: it is quite difficult to ensure 100% tightness. Do not blow it out with foam.

In practice, most often monoblocks are installed in a window (fortunately, the dimensions can be selected with an accuracy of a centimeter). It's easy enough from a preparation point of view: there is no need to redo the window. However, the window air conditioner is quite heavy: in one case there is a compressor, two radiators (condenser and evaporator), as well as electric motors with fans. It weighs at least 15 kg, so installing a window air conditioner in an apartment with your own hands should ensure safety. Otherwise, you will be left without a window and without a comfortable climate.

Needs to be mounted reliable support, at an angle of 1–2 degrees outward.

When installed in a window, dismantling for winter storage is also provided.

Perfect installation of a window block

In Western countries, the installation of sliding windows is practiced, in which the window is formed by vertical movement of the transom upward. This is the optimal place for summer installation monoblock of the climate system. The window rises, a special frame with sliding curtains is installed in the opening.

The air conditioner is fixed on a horizontal platform, resting on the windowsill. Sliding shutters cover the body tightly, preventing street air into the room. At the same time, the vent remains functional: you can raise it by opening air access when the monoblock is turned off.

Consider some of the nuances of installing window monoblocks:

Benefits of a window air conditioner:

• Easy to install: no need to supervise the filling after installation.
• Compact dimensions, while providing good performance.
• The walls will remain intact.

Flaws:

• Takes up a lot of space, partially covers the lighting area.
• As a rule, dismantling is required for the winter.
• Since the compressor is located in a common housing, high level noise.
• Most often it is necessary to install it on the windowsill, so the flow of cold air is at the level of the human body.

Split systems

If, due to lack of space, the question arises: where to install the air conditioner in the apartment, take a closer look at the system with separate units (the so-called split systems). The compressor and evaporator are housed in the outdoor module, while the cooling system is inside. Thus, the aesthetics inside the apartment are ensured, and there is some freedom in placement.

The principle of operation of a split system is no different from any other air conditioner. The functional modules are simply spaced apart geographically and are interconnected by pipes for the movement of refrigerant (freon). When DIYers figure out how to independently install an air conditioner with separate units, this point raises the most questions. Monoblock systems are factory charged and sold ready-to-use. And the split system needs to be connected with pipes and provided with freon filling.

In fact, the outdoor unit comes pre-charged. Just in front of the fittings for connecting connecting pipes, there are taps, and they are closed. Once connected, they are opened and the refrigerant is distributed throughout the system, including the indoor unit.

but correct installation provides for pressure testing (tightness test under pressure) and evacuation before starting freon. That is, it is necessary to remove air from the piping system and the indoor unit. In addition, the length of the pipes may vary depending on the distance between the indoor and outdoor units. In some cases, the addition of freon is required before starting. So self-assembly split systems are most often accompanied by a call to the master at the final stage.

What kind of work can be saved (in the sense of independent execution)

Installation of the indoor module, of course. There is only one rule: it must be higher than the outer one, and it is located strictly horizontally. Then you need to drill holes to the outside for the two pipes, the drain hose and the mains control cable. With certain skills, this is not difficult.

And finally, the most "interesting" part of the job: installation of the outdoor module. Especially if you live on the 10th floor. However, industrial climbers and an elevating tower can be dispensed with. If the air conditioner is located under the window, installation can be performed from inside the apartment.

Any outdoor work must be performed using safety equipment.

Doing as shown in the picture below is extremely dangerous and strictly prohibited!

Also, when performing such work, an assistant is definitely needed. Compliance with safety measures is a priority!

After fixing the blocks in their places, a connection is made from each other with copper pipes for the refrigerant. To carry out these works, you will need a special tool:

With its help, tubes are cut, flared, chamfers are removed. Here you need to make a decision: perform the connection operations yourself (with the purchase of a tool), or pay the installer, saving on the installation of blocks. It doesn't matter if you just plug in the tubes and don't test the system (with evacuation), the cooling may not be effective.

How to connect the air conditioner to the mains? Compared to fixing blocks and starting freon, this is an easy task. Separate power line, RCD, circuit breaker, grounding. It is clear that many "masters" do without it. However, the requirements of the PUE must be fulfilled. Otherwise, you may get an electric shock.

Important! Before starting any type of air conditioner, make sure that the transport locks of the fans are removed.

When choosing a place for the indoor unit, you need to decide how to properly install the air conditioner in the bedroom or children's room? If cold air blows on the bed, the comfort will be replaced by a cold. Therefore, the module is placed near the window, across the bed so that the direct flow does not cross the vertical projection of the bed.

Important: installing the air conditioner in wooden house, regardless of: window or wall, does not provide any special restrictions.

You just need to make sure that there is no fire hazard, and take into account the strength characteristics of the material. Any wiring that can pass through the wall must be installed in steel pipe... Tubes and hoses are also laid using a sleeve (plastic can be used) so that the tree does not get damp from condensation.

Conclusion

We have considered the typical issues of installation of climate control systems. Most of the work can be done independently, the call of the master is required only when refueling with freon. In addition to obvious savings, self-installation of the air conditioner gives confidence in the reliability of installation. You are in complete control of the process.

Related Videos

By controlling the microclimate of personal space, we create conditions that are optimal for rest, work, and study. Installing a split system will allow you to set a favorable level of temperature and moisture the most in a simple way... Agree, in the summer there are many days that need to be regulated by climatic parameters.

After reading the article proposed by us, you will learn all the details and subtleties of the work on the installation of air conditioning equipment. Carefully selected and systematized information will be useful both for independent home craftsmen and for customers of installers' services to check the correct performance.

We have a detailed description of the installation process, the nuances of the location and fastening of the blocks are listed. The materials required for the installation and connection of the units are listed. Photo and video applications are valuable additions to the text, making information easier to read.

Studying information on how to properly install a split system in a private house or apartment, you first need to choose the location of its parts.

To do this, it is necessary to take into account the direction of distribution of the flow of cold / hot air in the room, taking into account the basic technical requirements specified by the manufacturer of the equipment in the instructions.

The most common options for the location of the indoor unit of the split system are above the bed / sofa. Outdoor - usually taken out into the street and installed on an area near a window or on balcony slabs

There are certain rules that must be taken into account when choosing a point for placing blocks:

• the distance between the unit and the ceiling must be at least 15-20 cm, although some manufacturers indicate 20-30 cm in the instructions;
• from the side to the wall - not less than 30 cm;
• to an obstacle that will impede the flow of outgoing air or dissipate it - at least 150 cm.

For the outer part of the split system, the location is chosen based on carrying capacity walls. Installation is possible near the window, on the slabs enclosing the loggia, or on the wall next to the balcony.

For those who live on the lower floors, the installation of the block is carried out above the window - as far as possible from passers-by.

Based technical requirements to the wall of the ventilation facade, used as a platform for fixing the outdoor unit of the split system - the possible load capacity should be 2.5 times the mass of the installation unit

For multi-storey building, especially if the apartment is located on the top floor, it will be necessary to involve high-rise specialists or determine the installation point as close as possible to the window, which will provide easy access during installation.

Determining the distance between blocks

Often the choice of equipment location is governed by the minimum and maximum distance between its parts. These indicators are mainly indicated by the manufacturer and depend on lineup and characteristics.

Sometimes firms do not indicate the minimum length of the circuit between two units, so the installation can be performed arbitrarily.

The minimum distance between the blocks of the Daikin split system is 1.5-2.5 m, Panasonic is up to 3 m.However, if the blocks are located a meter apart, the length of the route must be at least 5 m (its surplus is folded into a ring and hidden behind the block)

It is a little easier to deal with the maximum possible distance between the two units. The standard indicator is 5 m. An increase in the length of the track is also possible, but in this case it is necessary to rely on additional expenses due to the need to refuel with freon.

Preparation for work

The decision to start installing a split system independently comes, as a rule, after clarifying the prices from specialists. The incredibly high sums for the execution of work, which takes 3 hours, are justified by the presence of expensive tools and their wear and tear during operation. This is what makes up the bulk of the payment for the services of the master.

If the prices from the installers of split systems are too high, it is worth installing with my own hands having thoroughly studied the technology of this type of work

If you look at the recommendations of equipment manufacturers, then often the instructions indicate that preparatory work can be done on your own, but for the installation of pipelines, connection to electrical network When carrying out the vacuuming process, it is advisable to invite specialists with the appropriate tools.

Hardware Installation Tools

It is possible to carry out an independent installation of the cooling unit, because most of the tools are in the home craftsman's suitcase. An exception may be a vacuum pump, but it is not necessary to buy it - it will be possible to make such a unit from old parts.

Some teams of foremen do not even use this equipment when laying a route up to 6 m long.

If at self-installation the air conditioner could not be found a vacuum pump, an alternative option could be powerful compressor from an old refrigerator or aquarium blower

During the installation process, an important aspect is the observance of the horizontal arrangement of block systems. In connection with these requirements, each stage of work must be accompanied by a control check at the building level.

If a tool is not available, it can be rented from a hardware store.

It will be necessary to prepare the following equipment in advance:

1. Perforator. It is used to make holes in the facade, through which the route will be laid, generalizing the external and internal blocks.
2. Drill with a set of drills. Used for mounting fasteners.
3. Pipe cutter for cutting copper pipes.
4. A device for deburring after cutting pipes. You can use a reamer, file and sandpaper.
5. Roller copper pipes.

Some people think that using a reamer does not make sense, especially if a new one does not leave burrs or dents, but in vain.

Only after the performed manipulations with the beveller, the edge of the flared tube can be pressed as tightly as possible with the nut, and, accordingly, the leakage of freon is unlikely.

The work of the device for expanding copper pipes is performed by deforming the tube according to the selected template, as a result of which a cone is formed. At the same time, the original wall thickness and circular cross-section are preserved.

According to the technical installation rules, a vacuum pump is required - the air conditioning system is sealed with this particular equipment. After filling the track with refrigerant, the evacuation process is carried out.

Acquisition of the necessary materials

A lot of components will be required, but all of them are readily available in any specialized store. Do not forget that the materials should be of the highest quality and be selected exclusively for a device that is functionally aimed at the cold.

It is necessary to purchase a wire for supplying power and connecting the units. The required parameters are always indicated in the passport or in the equipment installation instructions.

Standard is a four-core power cable with a cross-sectional area of ​​2 mm 2 or 2.5 mm 2. The length is selected based on the distance of the route, taking into account a small margin.

You will also need to prepare seamless thick-walled soft copper pipes for cooling appliances. Pipes are selected with smaller and larger diameters. More specific specifications are indicated in the user manual.

The length is equal to the length of the route plus an additional margin of up to 30 cm. During the transportation of the tubes, their edges must be muffled to protect them from dust settling inside the product.

Pipes are selected exclusively for the cooling system, their soft copper alloy lends itself well to expanding and ensures proper tightness

For pipe insulation, foam rubber insulation is used. It is sold in segments of 2 m. To carry out thermal insulation measures, a length equal to the length of the route is required. Synthetic insulation applies to two pipe diameters.

As drain tube experts recommend installing a corrugated hose equipped with a plastic spiral inside. You can also use an alternative piece - a polypropylene tube. Its length is equal to the length of the track with an allowance of 80 cm.

You will also need two L-type brackets to secure the unit from the outside. The suitable size of the parts is determined by its dimensions, and the safety factor for the bearing load must exceed its weight by 5 times. Such an increase is extremely allowable voltage parts are required to compensate for the loads of wind and snow.

It is better to buy these components in a company that sells spare parts for household split systems.

After purchasing the bracket for attaching the outdoor unit of the air conditioner, you cannot make additional holes in it, because this significantly reduces the safety factor of the part

The following are used as fastening parts: anchors, dowels and bolts. Their number, type and parameters are selected based on the type of brackets and a mounting plate intended for the indoor unit.

The type of walls where the outer part of the system is to be mounted also matters. To camouflage the laid line of communications, you will need a plastic box standard dimensions 60 * 80 cm.

Split system installation procedure

It is quite a real task to independently install the air conditioning system, however, there are many nuances in the work and they relate to certain models, so the installation process may have some differences. To study all the requirements, you first need to read the instructions for the purchased equipment model.

Stage # 1 - installation of outdoor and indoor units

The first to be installed is the indoor unit. Having decided on its location, the site is marked on the wall for the mounting card. After drilling out the backlashes, plastic plugs for the dowels are inserted, the card is hung and fixed with dowels.

The most careful fastening should be done at the bottom of the plate, because in this area there are latches that hold the block

After installing the cassette, using the building level, the exposure of the strict horizontal placement of the future block is measured. In case of any discrepancy, it will be necessary to redo all the work performed.

At this stage, preparatory work for laying the tracks is ahead. First, the lines of its location are calculated. Then a hole is drilled in the facade wall, taking into account the required slope of more than 1/100.

Also, a hole with a diameter of 5 cm is drilled with a slope, while the angle of inclination can be increased in comparison with the track. Thus, the formed condensate will better leave the system.

When choosing a back-to-back mounting scheme for the blocks, it is required to check the hole intended for placing the power cable. To do this, check the location of the power ports on the units.

And now it's the turn of the outdoor unit installation. If it comes O multi-storey building, then you will need special equipment for high-altitude work.

As in the first case, the block must be strictly horizontal, therefore, at the markup stage, a level is also used.

When placing the outdoor unit, take into account the limitation regarding its slope - the maximum allowable slope angle is 45 °

At the time of installation of the fasteners, each existing hole must be filled anchor bolts(standard diameter 10 * 100 mm), regardless of their quantity. After that, the outdoor unit is exposed and is also fixed with fasteners.

Stage # 2 - laying a communication line

Using an electric wire and two copper pipes, the outdoor and indoor units are connected. Additionally, a drainage system will be laid through the wall, which is responsible for the removal of condensate. These elements must be correctly selected, connected, laid and secured.

First, prepare the copper tubes by cutting to the desired length with a pipe cutter and reamer the edges from burrs and dents after the cutting procedure.

It is not recommended to use other tools such as a file. After its application, metal shavings enter the tube, which will circulate through the system and, as a result, lead to the failure of the compressor.

To pass copper pipes through the wall, their edges must be insulated with a plug to protect against dust

Thermal insulation of pipes is carried out by putting on them polyurethane foam hoses. Foam rubber cannot be chosen as a seal - it has a short operational life. After completing the thermal insulation measures, all joining areas of the material are tightly glued with metallized tape.

Now it was the turn to lay the drainage and the cable. For each wire you need to put on a special tip. They are installed on conductors cleared of insulating material and crimped with pliers.

The finished cable is connected to the air conditioner according to the diagram given in the manual for the device.

On both blocks, in the area slightly above the ports, there is a removable plate for connecting copper pipes. Under it are the electrical connectors for the cable.

The drainage tube is connected to a special outlet on the unit inside the room and out through a hole in the wall. The tube must be long enough and end at least 60 cm from the wall.

According to the rules, it is laid at an angle towards the outside. Fixing with clamps every meter of length is required to eliminate sagging, to prevent the accumulation of condensation.

Stage # 3 - connecting system blocks

Communications through the wall are connected to the appropriate ports. It is important to remember that the total length of the drainage pipeline cannot be more than 20 m. Copper pipes are laid in a loop method to trap oil, which is contained in a small amount of freon.

Drainage can be diverted in two ways: take it to the sewer or to the street. The first method is technically correct, however, due to the complexity of reproduction, it has not become widespread.

When laying the drain pipe, it is better to avoid sharp turns, and sagging is also not allowed - condensation will accumulate in these areas

At the bottom of the indoor unit of the system there is a tube with a plastic tip. A corrugated hose is put on it and tightened at the junction with a clamp.

A similar procedure is followed for the outside of the device, but many people ignore it. If instead of a hose you use polymer pipe, the appropriate adapter is selected. With its help, the output of the block and the tube are connected.

To connect copper pipes, you must initially lay them along the wall using a pipe bender. If such a tool is not available, then we suggest that you familiarize yourself with the article, which describes in detail how to bend a pipe without special equipment. Read more.

The pipes must be given the necessary slope without kinks and sharp creases. First of all, they are connected to the unit indoors. For this, the nuts are loosened at the corresponding ports.

When untwisted, the characteristic hiss of nitrogen escaping will be heard. It is pumped in at the time of production to eliminate oxidation of parts. After lowering it, it is necessary to remove the plugs and unscrew the nut completely. Next, the rolling procedure is carried out.

During the flaring process, the pipe is held down with the hole to prevent metal chips from entering the system.

The edges of the pipes are leveled in a section of 5 cm. Then, flaring is carried out to ensure the connection of the inlet and outlet of the blocks. This will create a closed circulation system. The correctness of the editing plays important role in acquiring the properties of maximum tightness, in the process of movement of freon.

The flared end of the pipe is connected to the required outlet and secured with a nut. It is forbidden to use any additional devices - sealants, gaskets, etc. The copper pipes used provide the necessary sealing.

When connecting copper pipes, it is necessary to apply an effort of 60 kg, only then the copper will solidly crimp the fitting, and the contact will be hermetically sealed

Do the same for all four ports. After connection, the last stage of the installation of the air conditioning system follows - the elimination of air and moisture, as well as possible argon residues that could accumulate during the installation process.

Stage # 4 - evacuation of the system

During installation work, air enters the air conditioner tubes and if it is not removed, it will end up in the air conditioning system. The result is an increased load on the compressor, respectively, its rapid heating.

Also, water particles have a negative effect on all parts. Freon contains a proportion of lubricating oil, its hygroscopic consistency becomes less effective in contact with water. As a result, component wear will accelerate.

To remove air, two methods can be used: a vacuum pump or a small amount of freon liquid that comes down from the unit located outside. In the manufacture of the outdoor unit, manufacturers with a small surplus.

The "zilch" method is repeated several times, while the second attempt is made with the upper valve. If the length of the track is 2-3 m - the procedure is carried out 3 times, with a four-meter track - 2 times

An alternative to an expensive vacuum pump is to release excess Freon from the outdoor unit system. To do this, unscrew the plugs on its valves. It is necessary to work with the lower port with a larger diameter. There is a hex socket under its cover. Based on its parameters, the appropriate key is selected.

Using a suitable key, rotate the valve by 90 ° and after a second return it to its previous position. Thus, a small amount of freon enters the system and an increased pressure is created. With a second pressing of a finger on the spool located on the same port, excess freon and gases are released from the system.

After complete removal of air, the outlet of the spool is twisted with a plug, and the valves are fully opened and freon enters the split system. To check the tightness of the joints, they are coated with soapy foam.

It is worth remembering that with independent, insignificant factors do not exist. And everything that was done incorrectly, for example, rolling pipes without stripping the border, or an insufficiently fixed connection, as a result, leads to rapid wear of the components of the cooling system. Therefore, during the installation process, you need to be extremely careful with all the details.

If you have the necessary experience or knowledge in the installation of split systems, please share it with our readers. Perhaps you know some of the subtleties that we did not mention in this article? Leave your comments, ask questions in the block below.

Reading time ≈ 13 minutes

The microclimate in the house is not only convenient, but also good for your health - you can maintain different temperatures. But the installation of a split system with their own hands is of interest to many - it is cheaper to do the installation yourself than to invite masters, although this is not always correct. First of all, experts will do the installation according to the instructions, but if you are confident in yourself, you can do it yourself.

What is a split system

Split system before installation

First, let's define what a split system is, so as not to get confused in definitions - for some reason it is distinguished from conventional air conditioner, and it is right. There are several types of SLE:

• On the wall 1.5-9.0 kW.
• On the floor 4.0-13.0 kW.
• On the ceiling 4.0-13.0 kW.
• With channels 5.0-18.0 kW.
• Cassette systems 5.0-14.0 kW.

How it works

The SCR consists of two parts - a compressor, which is usually placed outside under a window, and an indoor unit, which supplies cold air to the room. The compressor contains freon, which cools this air - this air comes from the street (supply system). In addition to cooling, the indoor unit contains a solenoid that can also pump hot air.

Outdoor unit

The outdoor unit is mounted on brackets

The outdoor unit is located on open space- house facade, open balcony, roof. In office buildings, the outdoor unit can be fixed on flight of stairs, in the lobby or in the hallway. These two units are connected by a freon pipe and a condensate drain pipe. There is also a compressor, a four-way valve, a receiver, a fan and a control system for a winter collector, which is driven by a capacitor motor. The four-way valve is connected from the indoor unit via a power cable from the unit in the apartment. There is also a compressor on the outdoor unit, which removes the noise in the room. The indoor unit is slightly noisy - it is 24-25 dB and it bothers some people.

Block in the apartment

Block in an apartment, fixed to the wall

The indoor unit can be located in any part of the room - ceiling, walls, floor (it depends on the type of SCR). The system is controlled by a remote control (remote control) is required. Modern air conditioners are equipped with a filter to remove smoke and / or dust from the air. Space heating and cooling ranges from 10 to 30⁰C. On the display of the control panel there is information on which you can adjust the system in the desired mode - this is the air temperature, three degrees of discharge force and turbo mode. For household use apply wall options, and floor and ceiling in offices, enterprises, in public places.

The electronics of this unit controls all parameters:

1. Allows you to control using the remote control, fixes the desired temperature and air flow.
2. It records the temperature of the air that enters the evaporator and measures the temperature of the air in the room.
3. When the set temperature in the room is reached, the compressor turns off, and turns on when the maximum permissible conditions change by 3-5⁰C.
4. The temperature is maintained by adjusting the fan rotation in the indoor unit and by rotating the compressor. If the evaporator is turned off, a large amount of condensation will form in those parts that are not designed for this. This may cause water to flow through the indoor unit into the room.
5. The remote control provides tongue control (blinds), which gives direction to the air flow.
6. Prevents premature start-up.
7. Controls the temperature of the block outside.
8. Monitors a timer that can be set for a specific time.

Heating the room

Modern air conditioners can heat the air that enters the room. This occurs when the four-way valve is switched, which changes the direction of the air supply. It is controlled by a solenoid with a voltage of 220 V supplied from the inside. With the heating function on the outdoor unit, it forms which must be discharged. You should not heat the house with SCV when negative temperature outdoors - this can lead to freezing and defrosting, which is tantamount to breakage. It is better to use heating at temperatures above 0⁰C.

Cooling in the cold season

The SKV has a winter kit that allows you to condition the air in the premises. closed type where there is intense heat generation - server rooms, workshops, and the like. During the injection of cold air, the outdoor unit heats up, so its freezing is impossible. This kit includes a fan control controller - it turns it on in condenser mode when warming up, and also heats up the condensate drain tube.

High temperatures

For R10A freon, there is a critical heat point - it is 72⁰C, therefore, the maximum temperature outside should be no more than 45-50⁰C. For R22 freon, the maximum unit temperature is 96⁰C, therefore, the permissible ambient temperature is 65-70⁰C - this allows such units to be installed in hot workshops, attics and garages. Such high temperatures can be in metal attics, in the IAAF and other metal rooms.

When the temperature outside is very high, the unit works with pressure drops and more freon is required. This factor makes the compressor work more intensively and pump the maximum amount of freon, which leads to its switching off by electronics. Conventional SCRs are designed for temperatures up to 40⁰C. If the air conditioner in the house or apartment is on the sunny side, then it is recommended to attach a visor from above when installing split systems with your own hands, which will protect the unit from the sun.

For non-standard operating modes, the throughput of the capillary channel is reduced, and this provides a significant pressure drop at the inlet and outlet with a smaller amount of freon pumped over. Since there is less gas in the system, then not a liquid, but a gas with a liquid passes through the capillary channel - it turns out that the circulation is significantly reduced and the air conditioner retains its ability to work in non-standard conditions. Under normal temperature conditions, such fluctuations are harmful to the air conditioner, and it quickly fails.

Multi systems

Multi-split system

If the SCV is equipped with several units, then it will already be a multi system - it means one unit outdoors and several units in the building. Such equipment is very convenient for offices, shops or a large residential building. It is noteworthy that in such a situation, the outdoor unit can be combined with several systems that are distinctive from each other, on the floor, not on the wall and on the ceiling. Of course, such units are more expensive - there is an additional controller to control the required modes and compressors with fans.

These systems are available with one or more compressors. In the case of one compressor, the SCR indoor unit transmits information to the outer part of the unit, which determines the mode of operation of the compressor. Systems with several compressors usually have two or three units. In such a situation, a separate compressor, a separate four-way valve and a separate capillary tube are installed on each unit. The compressor of the outdoor unit captures the signals of all indoor units and sets the operation of the fan and compressor. Such air conditioners are both inverter and non-inverter.

Air Conditioning Care

Due to condensation, both the indoor and outdoor units become clogged within two to three years, so they need to be cleaned - inside this is done with hot steam, and outside they are washed with water. In this way, mold and mildew are removed along with dust. Without cleaning the unit, its efficiency can drop by half, and sometimes even more. Especially a lot of dust accumulates on the outdoor unit and from cars and trees. Filters on top are of little help and serve more for advertising than for cleaning.

Requirements for the air conditioner

Video: Installation work

Do-it-yourself installation of a split system is, in fact, not difficult and you can watch the process on video, but several factors should be taken into account:

1. The air conditioner should never be near heating devices, for example, over a radiator - this greatly increases the consumption of electricity, for which you have to pay.
2. There should be no debris in the system, as it can damage the vacuum pump.
3. Boiling freon can evaporate even through a micro gap, therefore, during installation, the unit should be checked for leaks.
4. The outdoor unit should be positioned lower than the indoor unit. Otherwise, it is fraught with excessive consumption of electricity and thermosiphon effect.
5. Heating the outer part of the SCR also causes unnecessary waste of electricity.
6. The drainage tube can be lowered only downward, without loops bent upward. Such bends serve as a collection of debris and mildew.
7. Installing split systems with your own hands without a vacuum pump does not lead to anything good - the compressor will drive freon, which will cause overheating of the air and damage to the oil, from which the compressor deteriorates. Too expensive pleasure - it is often easier to buy a new one.

Air split

There are two separate units: evaporative (in the apartment) and compressor-condensing (outside). Although modern units work not only to cool the air, but also to heat it, it turns out that freon condenses in the inside of the unit, and evaporation occurs in the outside, which is why they are called that - internal and external.

Selection of tools

It is better to install the air conditioner during renovation works in the House

It is most convenient to carry out installation work during repairs in an apartment, since you have to drill holes in the wall, and this is a lot of dust. To install the unit, you will need tools such as:

• with standard drill set and core cutter ø 50 mm. With this cutter, you will have to drill the main (bearing) wall to output the pipes.
• Magnet for detecting the presence of fittings. And in concrete walls it is required.
• A grinder, but a pipe cutter for cutting pipes is better - after that, the pipe must be blown out so that there is no copper chips left there.
• For flaring pipes, you will need a scraper, since you cannot achieve tightness with improvised means. In addition, it is impossible to clean the ends with a file or a file, so that sawdust does not fall into the middle.
• Bicycle or car pump for tightness control.
• Vacuum pump - needed for evacuation before refueling the unit.
• Ampere-voltmeter (phase indicator can be used) for connection to the network ≈220 V.
• Pressure gauge for checking pressure.

Installation work

Outdoor bracket fixed with anchor dowels

The hardest part is to fix the brackets to the wall with outside at home - this is usually done below the window so that there is access to the outdoor unit. It should be fastened with anchor plastic dowels ø 14-16 mm - two for each bracket. Some are mistaken and buy metal mollies, but there is an umbrella-type dowel and it will not hold in a solid wall. Such an installation can be done from a telescopic tower, but it will be expensive, so it is easier to bend over the window and drill the holes, only first you need to mark with a pencil. To prevent the hole from getting lost, first drill with a thin drill ø 5-6 mm, and then take ø 14-16 mm

The outdoor unit must be located below the indoor unit.

As a rule, it is not recommended to install the outdoor unit on your own without proper experience - it is dangerous not only for health, but also for life.

But if you have construction experience in high-rise work, then you can mount. You can, of course, install it on a balcony or loggia, if they are not glazed - if the unit is indoors, it will overheat. The most important thing is to screw the brackets well, but if you are afraid of heights, then it is better not to take on such work, but to invite a specialist - they have experience of working at heights, so it is better to pay, but not risk it.

But first you need to determine the place where the indoor unit will be located, so that the outdoor unit can then be installed relative to it. It is most convenient when they are nearby - you don't have to add copper pipes - they are expensive. Then make a hole in the wall with a cutter, but if the walls are concrete, then it is best to punch the hole with a chisel so as not to break the crown on the wire.

Installing the mounting plate for the indoor unit

The mounting plate for fixing the air conditioner should be inserted strictly in level and fixed with plastic dowels. Here anchors are no longer needed - you can do with ø 6 mm dowels and 90 mm self-tapping screws. I was not mistaken - it is the 6 mm dowels that are needed for fastening so that the screw does not rip from the wall. If the walls are soft, then you can drive two screws into one dowel - this is much stronger. With a screwdriver, of course, it will be difficult to tighten two screws, so it is better to use a screwdriver or an electric drill.

Assembly of pipelines

Tubes are cut with a meter surplus so that there are reserves for bends. Bend the tube very carefully so that it does not crack anywhere. Although wrinkles should also not be allowed - such deformation will impede the flow of refrigerant, and this, in turn, will cause an overconsumption of electricity. The most best thermal insulation, this is a pipe made of foamed polyurethane - it will last a very long time, but the foam rubber will not even last for one season. Flanges are put on the ends and only after that flaring is done. The threads on the flanges must be turned towards the end of the tube to screw them onto the fittings. New air conditioners have fittings different diameters so it will be impossible to mix up the ends. But the passport contains assembly instructions, so you can constantly peep.

For drainage, it is best to use metal-plastic ø 16 mm, since corrugated plastic quickly crumbles under the influence of precipitation and temperature changes. If a thread is not provided for drainage, then it can be connected by heat shrinkage, heating it with a soldering iron or over an open fire - with matches or a lighter.

In order to connect the indoor and outdoor units, a multicore cable with a conductor cross-section of not 1.5 mm is used - there are terminals with names. The names of the terminals may not coincide, and then you will have to understand according to the instructions that are in the passport. The wire is also packed in a polyurethane foam pipe, and then all communications can be wrapped with tape. This pipe is pushed into a 50mm hole that is pre-made in the wall.

To check the sealing, use distilled water heated to evaporation and with a solution of laundry soap (it can be grated). To continue, remove the nipple from the outlet and pump water from the pump - if bubbles appear on the thread, then tighten the nut slightly. After completion, wipe the soap with a wet cloth or sponge. The nipple is put in place and air is pumped out with a vacuum pump, which will remove dust and moisture. This should be done for a long time 40-60 minutes - moisture will be removed along with the air. The system is pumped with freon from a cylinder through a pressure gauge - the required pressure is indicated in the passport.

Video: Installation work on the installation of a split system

Now all that remains is to test the unit - this can be done from the remote control or the start button on the indoor unit. If testing does not start, you will have to call a specialist, since the guarantees will no longer be valid. When starting the test, the blinds should open and cold air should flow. The blinds are adjusted to the desired position using the remote control.

Conclusion

If something does not work out with the installation of a split system with your own hands, and this is usually an outdoor unit, then you will have to call a master or hire a telescopic tower. But this applies to multi-storey buildings - on the ground floors and in the private sector, problems usually do not arise.

More and more people in Lately are thinking about the purchase and installation of devices for controlling the microclimate in the home. In urban settings, especially if the apartment is entirely on the sunny side, air conditioning is the only option for comfort during the hot summer months. The considerable cost of this useful device makes you want to save money by doing the installation of a split system with your own hands. Is this procedure as complicated as air conditioning companies claim? And how to install the air conditioner yourself according to all the rules to ensure its uninterrupted operation for the longest possible period?

Types of air conditioners

For creating comfortable conditions the following types of air conditioners are used in apartments:

Monoblock systems

All units of the air conditioner are placed in one housing. This reduces the cost of the device, but also leads to certain inconveniences: the bulkiness of the system and rather high noise from the operation of the compressor even not at full power. They, in turn, are divided into two types:

1. Window air conditioners. Pioneers among apartment systems. The main disadvantage: the device block occupies a significant part of the window opening. This prevents sunlight from entering the room, and it is extremely difficult to harmoniously fit its interior. Therefore, air conditioners of this type are found less and less.
2. ... Much more attractive in design than window ones. In addition to the tempting possibility of movement, they have one more undeniable dignity: the unit requires virtually no installation. It is enough just to equip with your own hands an exhaust hood from the room to the outside, to which the system is connected. But the cost of such air conditioners is quite high.

Two-block systems

In this type of device, the refrigerant circulates between the outdoor and indoor units of the air conditioner. The main advantage of such systems is noiselessness. The main "troublemaker" - the compressor, is located behind the wall. Indoor units have different design and can be placed in the most convenient place. They are divided into 3 types:

1. Wall split systems. The most affordable and widespread at present have a power of 2 to 7 kW. They are perfect for maintaining the desired microclimate: they create coolness in summer, but the air conditioner can also work for heating in winter. It is for such systems that the most relevant question is: how to install an air conditioner without the help of professionals?
2. Ducted air conditioners. They are installed under the structure of a false ceiling and have a high power - 12-25 kW. This is enough for a fairly spacious apartment. Complicating the task is the need to correctly calculate the air exchange in the room. When installing thermostats and special electric valves, you can set the system to its own temperature for each room in the apartment. Naturally, this complicates the installation of the system blocks and significantly increases its cost.
3. Cassette air conditioners. The main system is also hidden false ceiling... The cassette split systems are made to stand out. As a rule, the dimensions of the grille of the cassette air conditioner coincide with the dimensions of the ceiling tiles: 600 x 600 mm, and with a higher power - 600 x 1200 mm. The dimensions of the indoor unit allow you to easily place it and all the necessary communications inside a standard lattice made of a metal profile used for the installation of suspended structures.

Preparing to install the air conditioner with your own hands: choosing a place

Since the most popular are wall-mounted split systems, we will describe how to install an air conditioner with our own hands in relation to them.

Choosing the location of the outdoor unit of the air conditioner in an apartment building can cause some difficulties:

• The refrigerant is cooled in the external unit of the system, so it should be placed in such a way as to avoid heating by the sun as much as possible. The north or east side of the house or balcony works well.
• The massive outdoor unit of the air conditioner should be positioned so as not to disturb neighbors.
• It is unacceptable that condensate from drain pipe flowed down the wall of the house. It must be withdrawn as far as possible.
• Like any device, the outdoor unit of the air conditioner needs periodic maintenance. Therefore, it must be located so that it can be approached without much effort and risk.

When choosing a place for the interior of the system, there are also a number of conditions:

• It must not be placed near elements of the heating system.
• It is unacceptable that the interior of the split system is covered by curtains or other objects that impede the free movement of air.
• The processor of the air conditioner unit may be damaged if it is in an area of ​​intense electrical noise from household appliances. Therefore, for example, it cannot be placed in the kitchen.

Tools

Finding the right tool will also be difficult. For work you will need:

• Pumps: vacuum and bicycle.
• Set for expanding pipes. Better complete with pipe cutter. You cannot cut copper pipes with another tool - sawdust will surely get inside them, which will disable the vacuum pump.
• Reamer for finishing flared pipes.
• Pressure gauge for measuring the pressure in the air conditioning system.
• Indicator screwdriver and tester for electrical wiring of units.
• Perforator.
• Copper tube coil.

It is better to take the pipes a whole bay, with the ends sealed at the factory. You can never guess with what tool the pipe was cut if you purchase only a part of the coil. Copper tubes must not have dents, cracks or other defects.

Installation of the outdoor unit of the air conditioner

It should be noted right away that the outdoor unit of the air conditioner should be located lower than the indoor unit.

• After marking the attachment points for the brackets, a hole is drilled for communications. Of course, in this case, it is necessary to avoid getting the drill into other communications or fittings, so the place for the hole must be chosen carefully. In a brick wall, it is better to lay it along the seam of the masonry. If concrete slab has frequent fittings, the only way out is to drill a separate small hole for each wire or tube of the system.
• Brackets are attached to the wall with anchor bolts. You can fix the outdoor unit of the air conditioner directly on the balcony by slightly changing the mounting scheme. But in any case, it is important to observe the level: at the slightest distortions of the system, problems will arise with the drainage of condensate.
• The most difficult stage of the operation is the direct installation of the external block with your own hands. It weighs at least 60 kg, which is why this work must be done at least by two people. It may require the assistance of industrial climbers or construction equipment to securely attach the air conditioner to the brackets.

For normal operation of the system, it is necessary to leave a gap of at least 100 mm between the air conditioner case and the wall.

Installation of the indoor unit and the necessary communications

Work progress:

• The indoor unit is attached by hand to the mounting plate using a snap system. The plate is securely attached to the wall at a distance of at least 10 cm from the ceiling and at least 5 cm from the corner of the room. Having lifted the inner part together, it is fixed with latches.
• The copper pipes of the air conditioner for supplying the refrigerant are cut with a meter margin for the expected bends. The minimum length of these communications is at least 1.5 meters. Carefully bending them, put on the nuts and flare the ends. The nuts are tightened on the fittings tightly, but without much effort.
• The drain tube is attached to the unit with a threaded flange or with a piece of heat-shrinkable hose.
• The power supply of the air conditioner must be done through the machine. For a split system, its own wiring is laid with a cross section of at least 1.5 sq. mm. A yellow wire with a green stripe is usually zero. This is where the indicator and tester come in handy.
• Both parts of the air conditioner are connected stranded wires according to the scheme from the instructions. If you have the slightest doubt, it is better to consult with a specialist, repairing the system in case of incorrect connection will cost more.

Checking the tightness and filling the system

It is performed in the following sequence:

• A bicycle pump is attached to the nipple, and all joints and tubes are coated with soapy water. If bubbles appear when air is supplied, then tighten the nuts on the fittings.
• After checking the tightness, the air is evacuated from the air conditioner. A vacuum pump is connected to the nipple and runs for at least an hour. This is necessary to completely remove moisture from the system.
• Having connected a cylinder with freon to the unit using an adapter with a pressure gauge, the system is filled until the pressure specified in the instructions is reached. Then they turn on the power supply through the machine.

If the air conditioner independently switched to the system test mode, then everything worked out. If not, then starting from the remote control may help. Otherwise, you will have to call the wizard.

If the result is positive, it remains only to insulate the harness of communications between the blocks with foil and waterproof tape, after which the hole in the wall is blown out with foam. Everything, you can enjoy the operation of the air conditioner.