Warm floor in the annex to the house. Frame extension to the house: do it yourself

Hello, I have such a problem, before choosing how best to make: a basement from the ground 70 cm, an extension of 3 rooms (kitchen, corridor, bathroom) to the main house made of expanded clay concrete, I plan logs in the corridor and kitchen with a 50x150 board, but in I can’t define the bathroom. Either the same such logs or pour concrete at such a height? Making boards or slabs is straightforward to buy and put. Tell me, please, if you put the same logs, in the future I plan to lay tiles, will it not tear it there?

The answer to the question

Your problem in the bathroom can be solved in two ways:

In the bathroom, put the same logs as in the rest of the rooms, make a rough floor, put insulation, waterproof, put a finished floor from the floor, parquet boards, at worst - from a laminate. And it is not at all necessary to make a concrete floor and lay tiles. Why are solutions suitable for multi-storey buildings drag into your house? Receive a warm wooden floor. If the wood is well protected, first with an antiseptic, then with varnish or paint, then such floors will serve for many years.
If you make a concrete floor, then lay wooden logs not worth it. It is easier to make an insulated concrete floor. The height of 70 cm is a lot for filling completely with concrete, so first fill the foundation with earth that remained during the construction of the pit. Then make a sand pillow, spill it, tamp it. Put waterproofing on top, for example, roofing material in two layers, lay insulation, for example, foam plastic with a thickness of 10 cm, waterproof again and fill in a concrete pad with reinforcement with a thickness of at least 10 cm.And then lay on this floor cake floor tiles or porcelain stoneware.

In the room and kitchen, I would not recommend making concrete floors. From my point of view, wood floors are preferred in my home. And they keep warm well and it is pleasant to walk with your feet. And it is very beautiful if you keep the wood grain pattern. V multi-storey buildings put floor slabs from reinforced concrete slabs, therefore, it is more technologically advanced to lay tiles on them. If you decide to create concrete floors, you can make warm water or electric floors at the same time, which is very fashionable now. An electric floor is easier to install than a water-heated floor. Especially if you mount it from an electrical mat, as shown in the second picture. But a water-heated floor is more economical. But in any case, it is necessary to insulate well the concrete floors from the cold soil so as not to heat the surroundings. The choice, as always, is yours.

It is much easier to solve the housing issue if you have your own private house than in a city apartment. The best option is to make an extension that can be used for a variety of purposes:

a full-fledged living space - an additional room;
living space with an attic (if the extension is two-story);
utility room - your own pantry, which can largely replace the cellar;
a spacious terrace or veranda where you can spend your vacation with the whole family;
garage for cars.

Below will be considered the basics of technology and step-by-step instruction creation of an extension to wooden house.

Before choosing a specific building material and technology for the construction of an extension, it is important to clearly define the purpose of the premises. It may be worthwhile to immediately plan the creation of an extension in which it will be possible to live year-round - in case of an expansion of the family or the arrival of a large number of guests.

Types of outbuildings

There are several types of annexes to a wooden house. They differ in material and installation features:

frame extensions;
from a cylindrical bar;
brick;
from cinder block.

Before erecting a structure, it is important to take into account all the nuances that can affect the choice of materials and a specific type of extension:

To make the right choice of a specific extension project means to correctly correlate the purpose of this structure, the characteristics of the house to which it is attached, with the technology and material of manufacture. For this, it is important to understand how each type of such structures is erected.

DIY frame extension: step-by-step instructions and video

Frame extension differs in a number of advantages:

the design is quite simple, and if everything is calculated correctly, it is quite possible to do it yourself;
it is being built much faster than brick, cinder block structures;
the design is quite light in weight and does not require special efforts during work;
for thermal insulation, durability and others consumer qualities frame extension to the house is not inferior to others types of structures.

NOTE. If you intend to build a two-story extension, it is worth considering this particular option - the structure is light and will not create excessive pressure on the ground, so the risks of subsidence are noticeably reduced.

Preparation for construction

On the preparatory stage it is important to solve the following tasks:

What will be the frame material - wooden beams or metal profiles.
What type of extension will be associated with the main building.
Calculate all dimensions of the structure accurately and develop a detailed drawing.
Collect all the necessary materials and tools.

First of all, it is important to decide on what type the structure will be built - as a continuation of the house with an increase in the main roof for the installation of a single roof, or as an adjoining building.

It is clear that the second case will be cheaper, easier and faster - the extension will simply be adjacent to the wall. You can make access from the house directly into it if you make an appropriate hole and put a door.

The diagram of the structure adjoining the house is presented below.

Structurally, such a solution is a roof placed on supports. The roof is made of rafters and support boards as standard. For a longer service life, it is advisable to insulate it, lay out a layer of waterproofing. As a rule, it is based on a conventional strip foundation.

Pairing with the main part of the house occurs at 2 points:

wall;
roof.

The connection in each of them has its own characteristics, which will be described below. A preliminary sketch of the extension, as well as practical advice to consider before starting work:

At the same time, for the roof of the extension, it is better to choose a material that is elastic enough to make the necessary corrections. You can purchase corrugated board (height within 1 cm) or soft tiles.

In this sense, slate or traditional ceramic tiles, metal tiles will not work.

The frame is made of wood or metal. Moreover, all parts should consist of only one type of material - then the extension turns out to be more reliable and lasts longer.

NOTE. Even if the house is in good condition, but old enough, the rate of its subsidence will be several times higher than that of the extension. Accordingly, it is better not to use a rigid type of abutment of the structure to the main wall. In this case, another type of installation is used - "groove-comb".

As for tools, no special equipment is required: it is important to have a screwdriver, saw, pliers, building level and other tools for woodworking.

Installation work must be carried out by at least two people - some stages will require conscientious efforts.

Laying the foundation

The first stage of work is laying the foundation. Since, in the overwhelming majority of cases, the construction of a foundation for an extension is not provided for during the construction of a house, the foundation must not only be correctly laid, but also reliably connected to the main foundation.

NOTE. If you are planning the construction of a newly erected house, it is better to take into account the extension right away. You can make it after a while, and lay the foundation together with the base of the main building - technically correct option... In this case, the house and the extension will be a single whole, which will ensure their reliability.

The main requirements for the base of the extension are as follows:

reliability - stable maintenance of the weight of the structure without subsidence: especially important for outbuildings made of heavy materials or two-story structures;
maximum identity with the main foundation in terms of material and depth of laying;
the most complete adhesion to the main foundation.

Most often, strip foundations are chosen for the extension, since they are quite capable of cope with such loads. Moreover, the installation features always depend on the type of soil. You can lay monolithic foundations, made of bricks or concrete blocks, fill them with drainage materials.

The schematic diagrams of the bases are shown in the figure.

The technology for building a strip foundation for an extension does not differ from the usual one. In short, a trench is dug, reinforced and poured with concrete.

Connection of the foundation with the main

This is the most crucial stage. which needs special attention. Traditionally, two types of connections are used:

"Tape-tape";
Plate-plate.

According to the "tape-tape" type, the stages of work will be as follows:

On the side of the installation of the extension, a trench is dug, corresponding to the depth of the laying of the main foundation.
Further, at the base of the house, a hole is drilled half a meter in diameter - for the corners of the foundation of the extension. For all other parts, the hole corresponds to the diameter of the reinforcement at a depth of 2/3.
The reinforcement is driven into the foundation of the house using a wood wedge ..
The foundation of the extension is formed along the hammered reinforcement.

Installation according to the "plate-plate" scheme is possible in 2 cases:

the width of the main foundation allows for the corresponding work (from 450 mm);
the slab protrudes from the plinth (by at least 300 mm).

Thanks to the extension, it is often possible to solve another important task - to strengthen the old foundation and thereby support the sinking house. Illustrative video instructions:

Features of laying the foundation in the case of an old house:

Floor installation in the annex

It is important to make the floor in the future room correctly from the point of view of 2 factors:

thermal insulation;
evenness of the surface.

It is important to make a high-quality floor, especially in cases where the extension to the house will be used as an additional room with the possibility of year-round living.

The strip foundation allows you to mount both a concrete floor and make it out of wood. In the case of a columnar base, it is only possible to produce a wooden covering.

Concrete floor

The sequence of technology for laying this floor looks like this:

The concrete surface is cold enough, so this floor needs careful insulation, especially in the northern regions.

Wooden floor

On a columnar or strip foundation, a floor created on the basis of wooden floors... He needs additional processing to avoid rotting, however wood flooring much warmer than concrete.

The sequence for installing a wooden floor looks like this:

If the extension to the house is being built as a capital structure, then preparatory work for laying sand, crushed stone or expanded clay, as is the case with a concrete floor.
A roofing material is placed on the foundation.
They fit on it load-bearing beams... If the foundation is columnar, then they are mounted directly on the pillars, the length is adjusted in accordance with the interval. If the foundation is strip, it is important to install intermediate pillars at a certain interval, or use long beams if the extension is small in area.
A wooden covering is mounted on the beams.

All wooden parts must be carefully varnished to prevent decay.

An illustrative example of installing a wooden floor in a cinder block extension is shown in the video.

Frame installation

The next stage is associated with the direct construction frame structure... To do this, first of all, you need to install a strapping bar. If it is assumed that the wall thickness will be 200 mm, then the dimensions of the end bar will be 25-40 mm, as shown in the detailed diagram.

As a result, we get a structure of something like this.

Cutting of the groove in the base can be done complete or incomplete. Can be articulated without punching using a steel corner.

The lower strapping is done in several stages:

The socket is mounted in a frame.
The overlay is nailed into the base.
The support leg is secured with a bracket.

The top rail is formed for reliable installation of floor beams, as shown in the diagram.

NOTE. The interval between the vertical supports must be at least 50-60 cm, since in this case it will be possible to easily lay insulation ( mineral wool, polystyrene, ecowool, etc.). In addition, there is no practical need for a more frequent arrangement of racks.

The general structure of the frame is shown in the diagram.

Walls are erected according to the following algorithm:

Installation on a foundation of a pre-fabricated lower trim. The strapping is screwed on with dowels.

A waterproofing layer is certainly placed between the strapping and the foundations - foamed polyethylene, roofing felt or other material.

Vertical beams are nailed to the wall of the house if two structures are supposed to be rigidly fastened. If you just need to build a nearby building, then corner posts with temporary fastening are first made.
Vertical beams are mounted. Their height is selected depending on the number of storeys of the structure, as well as on the method of connection with the main roof of the house.
Next, the upper harness is mounted.
The last stage in the installation is making holes for windows and doors.

ADVICE. If it is planned to build a large annex with large quantity bars, then it is more convenient to assemble the frame separately, installing all the bars on the lower harness. In this case, there is no need to fix each element with temporary mows.

Assembling the roof and connecting it to the main roof

The installation of rafters is carried out in the same way as for a conventional roof, however, the need to connect the roof to the roof of the house gives rise to a number of features of this work.

In general, the finished structure can be schematically depicted as follows.

After the construction of the frame, the material of the roof of the house from the side of the extension must be disassembled so that the rafters appear. It is to them that the connecting rafters of the extension are mounted. Installation is carried out according to the rigid triangle principle, while before acute angle it is important to put an additional beam (shown by arrows in the figure). These elements also serve additional measure protection during snowfalls, so they are also called anti-snow supports.

The sequence of actions for installing the roof can be briefly described as follows:

The rafters from the extension are mounted with the upper frame strapping.
The upper end of the rafters is connected to a purlin, which is pre-installed on the roof or attached directly to the roof rafters.

Video editing features

NOTE. It is not necessary to connect the rafters of the extension to the house in a rigid manner. This can damage the structure due to uneven shrinkage rates of the main room and annex. The optimal solution to this problem is the use of a sliding structure that provides free movement of the lower support.

Roof finishing and insulation

At this stage, the roof is completely finished with its sealing and insulation, as shown in the diagram.

NOTE. If the roof of the extension will simply adjoin the wall of the house, and not organically connect with its roof, then a sealant is used for insulation, tightly closing the hole between the roof and the wall, as shown in the diagram.

Construction and wall insulation

One of the last stages is the construction of walls and their insulation. An extension is a durable structure, and even if it is used only for household purposes, it is important to create sufficiently good insulation so that temperature drops cannot damage the inner surfaces of the walls and ceiling.

The structure of the wall can be schematically represented as follows.

In fact, this is the final stage of the construction itself. Next, the following work should be carried out:

finishing work inside the extension:
outside cladding of the building;
creating a transition to the house;
production of windows and doors in a building;
carrying out all the necessary communications.

It is important to treat all wooden structures with special solutions that prevent decay and harmful influences temperature differences.

Bar extension

The basic stages of the construction of the extension (pouring the foundation, building walls and installing the roof with subsequent insulation and finishing works) do not depend on the choice of a specific material of construction. However, depending on it, their technologies are selected, which differ markedly from each other.

Erection of the foundation

In the case of an extension from a bar (profiled or round), the differences begin already at the stage of laying the foundation. Since the weight of the future extension will be significantly greater than the weight of the frame analogue, accordingly, the base is required to be more reliable.

A tiled foundation or a pile foundation is often used, less often a strip foundation (for small outbuildings it is quite suitable). In any case, it is necessary that it is established for at least 1 year.

From the point of view of simplicity and cheapening of work, the best option would be to create pile foundation, which can be built independently of the main foundation of the house.

Video - the basics of pile foundation installation technology

Walling

Building walls is quite simple in terms of technology. The only drawback of the bar is that it is quite heavy, and at least two people need to work with it together.

Fastening materials are used as follows:

metal staples and plates;

brackets;
steel corners;
self-tapping screws, screws, nails.

Masonry technology for round timber in the construction of an extension to the house:

Remaining work

The technology of wall construction, insulation and decoration does not fundamentally differ from that described earlier.

In the case of the construction of a structure from a bar, you can easily make two-story structures. Of course, in this case, special requirements are imposed on the foundation and floors.

Brick extension

Brick extensions to a wooden house are erected less often. They are great for living, they can also be used as a utility room.

Most often in such cases it is used monolithic foundation... In this case, the brick structure can serve as the basis for the construction of the second floor of the same or attic. Installation of the floor and roof according to the technology does not have any fundamental differences from those discussed above.

Cinder block extension

And another one cheaper and quick option construction of an extension to a wooden or other house - from cinder blocks (foam blocks, gas blocks are also used). Such a room can serve as an additional room, but is most often used for household purposes.

The erection of a structure from cinder blocks occurs very quickly due to the large size building material... This option is great if the owners want to make a garage for a car or an ordinary canopy, veranda.

And finally - a short video review of the main stages of the construction of a frame extension to a wooden house.

Time passes and it turns out that private house no longer satisfies the owners with its size and amenities. A decision is made to expand its area with an extension. How to do it efficiently and without extra costs, we will tell in the article.

Save money without sacrificing quality - requirements for premises and materials

Poorly thought-out design of the extension over time will force something to be altered or completed, attached to the country house. In order not to get into such a situation, we think over all the nuances, weigh the advantages and disadvantages of our idea. We start by choosing the location and size.

Each type of additional room has its own specific features in connection with the use, requirements for insulation, waterproofing and others. If a decision is made to build an additional living room in the country, then this is tantamount to the construction of a small house. It is required to reliably insulate, to prevent the appearance of dampness. If you plan to stay in cold weather, you need to think about heating.

Kitchens and bathrooms are another common type of annex. The requirements for them are practically the same. First of all, we think about engineering communications and bring them down even before the start of construction. Sewerage and water pipes are much more convenient to lay before pouring the foundation than to break through under it later. Floor waterproofing requires special attention. We are thinking about insulation, but if the kitchen is planned to be summer, then you can save on this.

The house is expanded with a veranda annex. The structure is light, serves for summer holidays, protects the entrance from wind, snow and rain. It is carried out in many versions: from the simplest in the form of a boardwalk, low walls with a roof on pillars, to a complex one with walls, doors, windows. No insulation is required, otherwise it will no longer be a veranda, but waterproofing of the foundation is necessary.

An extension to the house should be in harmony with the main structure. If the house has an external finish, then it will be easy to repeat it in the attached room. Wood goes well with all materials, which looks great even without additional finishing. The best option there will be a frame structure:

is being built quickly, literally in a few months;
does not require a capital foundation, because it is light;
without special knowledge and skills, it is available for DIY construction;
will cost less.

The base for the extension is made on the same level as the foundation of the house. When attaching the structure to the house, we do not do it tightly - over time it will shrink - but we leave the expansion joint. In this respect, they compare favorably frame structures which do not shrink vertically.

If the structure is attached to the front wall, the roof continues the main roof and is pitched. We choose the slope so that the snow does not linger and the rain flows down. If this is an extension to the side wall, then the roof repeats the configuration of the main one. The roofing material is the same as on the roof of the house, if different, it is important that they are combined.

Columnar base - fast, cheap, reliable

For the columnar foundation of the extension to the house, concrete, brick or their combination is used. It is made mainly for a living room or a veranda. If used for a kitchen or a bathroom, thermal insulation of the input of utilities into the house will be required. Since the protection concerns on average half a meter of pipes, you can go for such costs, it will still be cheaper than a strip foundation. The floor is made of boards, for concrete you will need a lot of material for backfill, a fence around the perimeter.

We start by marking the site, the installation sites of the pillars are one and a half meters from each other. A separate pit 50 × 50 cm is dug under each pillar, the depth is greater than the freezing of the soil. At the top of the pits we expand a little: on each side about 10 cm. The bottom is covered with a layer of sand 10 cm, thoroughly rammed, then crushed stone or broken brick, which is also rammed.

We spread the film for waterproofing, bring the ends to the surface. If we plan to build pillars of bricks, pour a little concrete mortar for the base into each hole and wait for it to set. When concrete pillars are planned, we tie the reinforcement at the top along the entire height, lower it into the pits. We provide equal distance between the walls. We put pieces of brick under the bottom to raise the reinforcement by about 4 cm.

We make the formwork for the basement, inside which we run the film. Pour the concrete layer by layer, pierce each layer several times with a rod so that air bubbles come out. It is important not to rush, it is better to wait until it grabs, then continue pouring. We carefully level the top of the pillar and wait about two weeks until the concrete hardens. All this time we pour heavily with water, cover with burlap or film.

When the foundation has acquired the required strength, the formwork is removed. We warm up the bitumen mastic, apply it to the posts and immediately glue the pieces of roofing material for waterproofing. There is a space left between the pillars, which it is advisable to fill up in order to insulate the floor. We use ordinary earth mixed with rubble or pieces of brick. We fall asleep in layers of 10 cm, ram. The technology for erecting a strip foundation is practically no different, but unlike a columnar foundation, it is solid.

Getting Started - Bottom Rail and Extension Floor

So, we settled on frame version as the fastest and cheapest. In order for a tree to serve for a long time, it is required to adhere to two rules: to make reliable waterproofing and carry out antiseptic treatment. Of course, the wood must be well dried. For waterproofing, the most reliable means is bituminous mastic. It is possible to use several layers of roofing material, but it is short-lived.

Then we make the bottom strapping. Usually a bar of 150 × 150 mm is used, but it is possible to use boards of 150 × 50 mm. We lay them horizontally along the entire perimeter, leveling with the outer edges of the foundation. We do not connect the boards of the first row to each other. We lay the second row on top, overlapping the joints in the first.

In the boards laid in this way on the foundation, we do through holes under the studs and connect them. If it is tape, we drill and connect it on the ground, and then we lay it. To get the effect of a single bar, we knock down with nails in a checkerboard pattern every 20 cm. It turns out a strapping of the required thickness, which, moreover, has additional advantages:

costs much less than beams;
it is very simple to connect with each other, it is more difficult with bars.

We attach the lower strapping to the slopes from the same boards 150 × 50 mm, installed on top of the edge along the outer edge. We fasten them with 90 mm nails between ourselves and with the beds. Next, we expose logs from a similar material installed on the edge. The distance between them is 60–80 cm, but it all depends on the size of the frame extension: the longer the logs, the narrower we install them. They are attached to the strapping board with nails, 2 on each side.

Now we start to warm the floor. The cheapest, albeit not very environmentally friendly option is tiled polystyrene foam with a density of at least 15 kg / m 3. Its advantage is that it is the only heater that is not afraid of moisture. We nail bars of 50 × 50 mm to the lower edges of the lag, which will hold the expanded polystyrene. A thickness of 15 cm is required: we use sheets of 10 and 5 cm. We lay them so that the seams of the lower and upper rows overlap.

The base is ready. Lay the subfloor on top. So that it does not warp over time, we put it, alternating the direction of the annual rings. We look into the cut: we put one board with an arc up, the other down. The finishing floor is made of plywood, the joints are staggered. A rough base is not necessary if you have grooved edged boards with a thickness of 30 mm or more or 15 mm plywood. We put it directly on the logs.

Wall installation - two assembly technologies

There are two technologies for assembling frame structures. The first is called frame-panel, when all assembly is done on the ground, then ready-made structures are installed in place and fastened together. Sometimes sheathing of the frame is carried out immediately, which makes it even stronger. Another method involves gradual installation right on site. Which one is more convenient - everyone decides for himself. The shield assembled on the ground cannot be lifted alone, assistants will be required.

We begin the construction of the frame with corner posts... For them and intermediate racks, we use a beam of 150 × 150 mm or even 100 × 100 mm. The distance between the racks is determined by the width of the insulation, which we find out in advance. We arrange the pillars so that the gap between them is 3 cm narrower than the width of the insulation. So we will save on waste-free use of the material and improve the quality of insulation without leaving gaps.

Fastening can be done simply and reliably with metal corners installed on both sides of the racks and fixed with stainless screws. Before finally fixing the rack, we carefully check its verticality, this is especially important for the corners. One incorrectly aligned beam will lead to the fact that the entire extension is bent.

Temporary slopes, which are installed from the inside and serve until attachment, help to maintain the correct shape of the frame. outer cladding... If the sheathing is made of a rigid and durable material such as plywood, OSB, GVK, it is able to independently strengthen the base, which will stand securely after removing temporary mows. When a soft material is planned for sheathing: siding, lining, then you cannot do without permanent braces. It is better to install them two at the bottom and at the top of each rack.

In the places where windows and doors are installed, we fasten the crossbars. We make the racks next to them double: they experience increased loads and should be stronger. The final fastening of the frame is carried out by installing the upper strapping. In order not to invent anything, it can be similar to the bottom one: a bed made of two boards fastened together and a strapping of the same boards installed on the edge. To it, in the same way as the floor logs were attached, we nail the floor beams from 150 × 50 boards to the edge with nails.

We constantly check the geometry of the entire structure, as well as the correctness of the installation of the struts and crossbars: the columns are strictly vertical, the crossbars are horizontal.

Shed roof - design and technology

The roof of a house with an extension consists of two parts, which should be harmoniously combined into one whole. If the extension is built from the side, the roof will be a continuation of the main one, it remains only to repeat its structure in order to lengthen it. When annex building is located along the length, its roof is shed. The slope is provided by the difference in height between the front and rear struts. The height of the rear ones should ensure that the roof of the extension goes under the main visor.

The roof supports are rafters, which are laid on the beams. They are made of thick boards to ensure fixation, we make special grooves. We cut them out on the ground in a pattern so that they are all the same. Then, after installation in place, there is no need to align horizontally. We process the grooves with mastic, install and fasten them to the walls with brackets, metal corners on hairpins. If the length exceeds 4 m, we install additional vertical supports.

We lay the crate on top of the rafters. Depending on the roofing material we make it solid or with a step of 0.3–0.6 m. The need for solid wooden flooring arises in the case of using soft material, thinned we do for all other types of roofing. We make fastening depending on the type of roof. We fasten the profiled sheets and metal tiles with special self-tapping screws with sealing washers, and ondulin - with nails with a wide head. We provide overlapping waves. Don't forget about the final design: the wind bars not only protect the roof, but also give it a complete look.

Insulation is a mandatory operation for an extension

Mainly mineral wool and polystyrene are used to insulate buildings. Minvats resist fire, low thermal conductivity. They have a low weight, a form of release convenient for consumers: rolls, mats. Another popular insulation is polystyrene foam. Its advantages: it is inexpensive, it is not afraid of fungus, moisture, decay. But there are two big drawbacks: rodents love it very much, it emits toxic gases in case of fire.

We carry out insulation from the inside in the following sequence:

1. We mount the waterproofing, having previously cut the strips required sizes... We fasten with staples, applying construction stapler so as to provide an overlap. We sheathe the frame completely, driving in staples every 10 cm.
2. We put insulation between the racks. We provide a snug fit to wooden structures, the seams between separate elements Close the insulation material by overlapping the next layer.
3. We fix the vapor barrier, even if we use foam. The fact is that it is necessary to protect not only the insulation, but also the tree. We fix it in the same way as for waterproofing.
4. Sheathe the walls from the inside. We use drywall on a perfectly flat frame or OSB, if there are irregularities. It is tougher and smoothes out flaws.

Remained internal and exterior decoration where there is room for the owner's imagination. The frame extension is erected quickly, cheaply, it has been serving for more than a decade, and it can be built practically without outside help.

Over time, some private buildings require expansion for various reasons. For example, an increase in the number of people sitting, carrying out a sewage system into the house, or the need to close the front door from a direct hit of cold. Therefore, there is a need for an additional room, expanding the kitchen, arranging a room for a bathroom, or simply building a veranda.

An extension to the house with your own hands can be made of wood, brick, or in a combined version, which includes several building materials.

Requirements for premises

In order not to have to make additional changes in the attached room, it is better to immediately think over all the nuances of the extension, since each of them requires a special approach.

Additional room

If you need to attach another living room to the house, you will have to try, since this work is almost tantamount to building small house... The floors, walls and ceiling of the building must be well insulated, otherwise the heating supplied to it will not be effective - this is one of the main conditions for a living space. Second important condition for normal living, this is the absence of dampness in the room, which means that reliable waterproofing is needed.

Kitchen or bathroom

When arranging these rooms, before installing the foundation, they are brought to the place of construction engineering Communication- in particular - sewer pipes... You may have to separately carry out the water supply.

In addition, you should also pay attention to the insulation of all structural elements, think about reliable waterproofing of the floor.

Veranda

A veranda is a lightweight structure that mainly serves to protect the main entrance to the house from wind and rain, or is used for summer holidays. It can be closed, have a door and one or more windows, and may be and completely open, that is, represent a flooring, low walls and a roof raised on pillars.

This structure does not require special insulation, but waterproofing for the foundation will still have to be done.

Foundation device for an extension

The foundation for the extension can be tape, made of bricks or stone blocks, or columnar. Each of them has its own advantages and disadvantages. To dwell on one of them, you need to find out how each structure is arranged, and choose the one that is more suitable for a particular extension.

Foundation information

Strip foundation

So, the strip foundation is arranged in the following sequence:

First, you need to mark and trace the place where the extension will be installed. This is done with a rope that is stretched on the ground and secured with pegs.

Further, along the markings, a trench is dug to the same depth as the foundation of his entire house. It will be nice to fix the reinforcement that unites the foundations of the main structure and annexes before pouring concrete.
The width of the trench should be 100–150 mm greater than the planned wall thickness.
After the trench is dug, its further preparation is going on. First, there is a backfill on the bottom of a sand cushion 100-120 mm thick. It must be carefully tamped down.
The next layer is covered with crushed stone or broken brick, which is also compacted with a manual rammer.
Further, along the entire perimeter, waterproofing is laid in the trench, which should extend to the surface of the soil by 40-50 cm, since it should cover not only the inner part of the foundation, but also the formwork for its above-ground part.
A welded reinforcing structure is installed on the waterproofing film, which must repeat the shape of the foundation, moreover, to its entire height.
Then the reinforcement is poured with a coarse concrete mortar from cement and gravel, to ⅓ of the height of the trench, and after solidification of this layer, the next one is poured - to one-half of the remaining height.

Installation of formwork for strip foundations

After pouring this layer, you can start arranging wooden formwork to form the above-ground part of the foundation - the basement. The waterproofing film is left inside the formwork, straightened along its walls and fixed on top of them so that it does not slide into the concrete.
Concrete is poured into the prepared formwork to the top. Then the solution is pierced in several places with a shovel so that no air cavities remain inside it. You can tap the formwork lightly - this vibration will help the concrete to compact as much as possible.

After completing the pouring of the foundation, the concrete is leveled at the required level and left to dry, sprinkling with water daily to harden.
After the final hardening of the concrete, the formwork is removed and proceeded to waterproofing the foundation from the outside.
Before starting the construction of walls, it is recommended to additionally cover the foundation with waterproofing compounds or roll materials... For this process use liquid rubber, tar, bituminous mastic and roofing material.

The space inside the strip foundation can also be equipped in different ways - with a concrete screed or with flooring from floor beams and a log with a wooden floor along them.

Video - construction of an extension to the house on a strip foundation

Column foundation

In addition to the strip foundation, a columnar foundation can be arranged, which is erected from brick or concrete, as well as in a combination of these materials. Basically, this option is called for the construction of verandas or additional living rooms, since communications associated with water supply or drainage in an uninsulated or even open underground will require additional thermal insulation.

A columnar foundation is most often arranged if it is planned to mount a boardwalk.

The work is done in several stages:

The first step is the marking of the site selected for the extension. The pillars should be at a distance of one and a half meters from each other.

Pits are dug for each pillar separately. Their depth should be 500-600 mm, with a square side of 500 × 500 mm. Towards the top, the pits should expand somewhat - by about 100 mm on each side.

Installation diagram of the foundation pillar

Next, the bottom is strengthened in the same way as when constructing a strip foundation, using sand and gravel, waterproofing is laid.
If the pillars will be erected from bricks, it is recommended to lay a layer of coarse cement mortar on the bottom. Only after waiting for it to solidify, do brickwork.
If the pillars are concrete, reinforcement structure and formwork are installed at the bottom of the pits to the height of the future pillar. The waterproofing film is allowed inside the formwork and fixed on top of it;
Concrete is poured into the formwork in layers. Each layer must set well before the next is poured;
The top of the stem is well leveled and sprinkled daily with water until it solidifies;
After the pillars are ready, the formwork is removed from them and they waterproof roofing material, which is glued to the heated bituminous mastic.
Backfilling is made into the gap between the soil and the pillars, tamping every 100-150 mm of backfilled soil mixed with rubble.
Several layers of roofing material are laid on each of the pillars - it is necessary for waterproofing wooden bars that will be laid on top of the pillars.

The device of the base of the floor of the extension

If a strip foundation is chosen, both wooden and concrete floors can be arranged on it. A columnar foundation without lintels assumes a wooden floor.

Concrete floor

To make a reliable and warm floor screed inside the strip foundation, you need do work step by step, adhering to a specific technology.

To begin with, excess soil is selected inside the finished strip foundations. It is first loosened, and then removed to a depth of about 250—350 mm.
At the bottom of the resulting pit, a sandy ten-centimeter pillow is poured and tamped. On top of it, you can lay crushed stone, but to insulate the screed, instead of crushed stone, expanded clay is used, poured in a layer of 15-20 cm.

Expanded clay is leveled, and a reinforcing grid is laid on it. After its installation, a system of beacons is arranged on top at the selected horizontal level. Some rooms, such as a bathroom or open terrace, may require a certain slope of the surface, for the unhindered drainage of water that has fallen on the floor to the drainage system.
Next, it is laid out on the prepared surface cement mortar and leveled out using the rule. You can cover it every other day plastic wrap- then the concrete will mature more evenly, which will give it additional strength.

When the walls of the extension are erected, any decorative coating or a wooden floor.

Floor on timber beams

Floor beams are wooden blocks rather thick, about 150 × 100 mm in cross section. You cannot save on them, since the overall strength of the floor will depend on their reliability.

Beams are laid on pillars or strip foundations, on top of a sheet of tar paper, and can be fixed to concrete different ways- with the help of through fasteners, corners and other metal devices. Between themselves, the beams at the intersection are also fastened with the help of powerful corners.

They will hold securely, as the wooden flooring of the "black" and "white" floor also serves as a kind of binding fastener.

Video: erection of a frame extension with a wooden floor

Erection of the walls of the extension

Brick or frame walls, columnar is mainly used for frame buildings. If it is planned to make brickwork on the pillars, then you will have to make additional concrete lintels between the pillars.

Frame walls

The frame for future walls is erected from a bar and fixed to the previously mounted crown floor beams. The bars can be attached to the beams separately, but sometimes it is much more convenient to assemble the wall elements in a horizontal position, on a flat area, and then set them up in a vertical position already assembled.

To connect the frame to the wall of the house, ideally accurate vertical markings are made on it, along which a separate bar or assembled frame element will be fixed.

For reliability, all the bars are interconnected with metal corners.

Having installed the entire frame of the extension, it is better to immediately sheathe it with boards or plywood (OSB) from the outside. The cladding will immediately stiffen the structure.

The upper horizontal beam, running along the house, is attached to the main wall using reliable metal corners or anchors.
The walls are insulated after the roof is installed.

Video: another example of the construction of an easy extension to the house

Brick walls

Before you start building brick walls, you need to carefully check the horizontal surface of the foundation and, if necessary, level it to the ideal. If the base is uneven, then the masonry may crack from deformation during shrinkage.
It should be noted that brick extensions are best done to also brick house... To connect the extension with the main wall, holes are drilled in it during the construction of the walls two-thirds of the depth, through every two or three rows of masonry. Fittings are embedded in them, which should protrude from the wall by about half a meter. It should be in the seams of the future masonry. So that the seams on these rows are not too wide, the reinforcement should be chosen not too thick, or it will be necessary to make a depression in the bricks of the row on which the reinforcement will be laid.
If brick extension is arranged against a wooden wall, then a hole is drilled through it, into which reinforcement with a transverse stopper is installed from inside the house, which will hold it in the wall. The reinforcement is also installed as the wall is being erected, every two or three rows.

Before masonry starts, a string is stretched along the future wall, along which it will be easy to control the horizontal rows, and the verticality is constantly verified using a plumb line.
The thickness of the walls will depend on what function the extension will perform. If it will living room, then masonry should be made, at least one or two bricks. If the room will play the role of a veranda or utility room, then half-brick masonry will be enough.
By constructing brick walls, they are tied along the entire top with a concrete belt. For him, formwork is made, a reinforcing structure is laid in it and poured with concrete. After the mortar has completely solidified, the formwork is removed from the belt, and you can proceed with the overlap device.

It should be noted that it is not as easy to build brick walls as it seems, therefore, if there is no experience in this work, it is better to entrust this process to a qualified bricklayer or choose a different type of walls.

Overlap extension and roof

After the walls have been erected, the ceiling must be made. It will need beams - beams, which are installed on the upper part of the walls, at a distance of 60-70 cm from each other, and fixed with special corners.

If the beams are laid on a brick building, they can be embedded in a concrete belt, having previously wrapped the edge of each of them with roofing material.

The next step is to hem the beams with boards or thick plywood, on which insulation will be laid from above, between the beams.

The roof of the extension can have different designs, but basically a single-pitched version is chosen, which is worth considering.

This structure consists of rafters on which the roof is laid. It is quite simple to arrange this type of roof, the main thing is to choose correct angle slope. It must be at least 25 — 30 degrees - this is necessary so that precipitation in winter does not linger on the surface, otherwise they can simply damage it.
Having determined the angle of the slope, on the wall or front of the roof, a mark is made in the form of a horizontal flat line, along which the bar supporting the rafters in the upper part will be attached. The lower support for them will be the previously laid floor beams or the edge of the wall. The rafters should extend beyond the boundaries of the constructed walls by 250 — 300 mm, in order to protect the walls from rainwater as much as possible.
The rafters are also fixed using metal corners.
It will be more difficult to solve the issue of the slope of the roof if the extension is installed on the side from which the slope of the main building of the house is arranged, since there simply will not be anything to fix the transverse beam there. Therefore, it may be necessary to remove several lower rows (sheets) of roofing material from the roof of the house in order to use its beams to secure rafter system and combining common coverage.
It is necessary to decide in advance which roof will fit on top of the rafter system. If it will soft roof or flexible shingles, then on top of the rafters a solid material is laid and fixed, for example, plywood or frequent transverse lathing.
If large canvases are fixed (roofing iron, metal tiles, slate, etc.), then they can be overlapped with directly installed rafters.
When the system under the covering material is ready, it is recommended to install waterproofing on it. In the first case, plywood is covered with it, in the second, it is fixed to the rafters.
A roofing material is laid on top of the waterproofing material, starting from the bottom of the rafter system and going up. If it is necessary to unite the roof, then when joining, the upper row of the roof of the extension is slipped under the last row of the roof slope of the main structure.
If the roof adjoins the upper part of the roof to the wall or the front of the roof, then the joint between them must be waterproofed.
When the roof over the erected extension is ready, you can start insulating the walls and floor.

Prices for metal tiles

Metal tile

Insulation of the extension from the inside

If the premises are residential, then reliable thermal insulation is indispensable. If the ceiling is already sheathed and insulated, then you can proceed to the floor insulation.

Floor insulation on beams

If floor beams have been installed on columnar foundation, then the work goes as follows:

On the floor beams, transverse logs are fixed from smaller bars.
It is recommended to arrange a rough floor on the logs, in this case it is better to lay the boards for it with a continuous flooring, otherwise the heat from the house will be blown out.

Further all rough coating smeared thick enough clay mortar, and after drying, a vapor barrier film is laid on it.
Mineral wool is tightly laid between the logs, expanded clay or slag is poured.

From above, the insulation is again closed with a vapor barrier, and a wooden floor made of boards or plywood is laid on it.
A decorative coating can be immediately laid on the plywood, or an infrared film floor can be arranged under it.

Concrete floor

A concrete floor can be insulated as follows:

Mineral wool, laid between the logs fixed on a concrete base and then covered with boards or plywood.
One of the systems "warm floor" (electric or water), which fits into the final leveling screed;
Infrared film laid on a thin thermo-reflective substrate, and covered with a decorative coating;
Dry screed and gypsum fiber slabs.

When the floors are insulated, you can move on to thermal insulation of the walls.

Frame walls

For internal insulation walls use mineral wool produced in mats. It is convenient to lay them between the frame bars. This work is simple and done quickly enough.
When the walls are covered with insulation, it is tightened vapor barrier film, securing it to the bars with staples.
Then the wall can be covered with natural wooden clapboard, OSB boards or plywood, drywall or gypsum plasterboard - there are a lot of options, there is plenty to choose from.

Expanded polystyrene can also be used as wall insulation, but environmental and performance it is much worse than that of high-quality mineral wool.

Brick walls

Brick walls are usually finished with plaster or drywall from the inside, and insulation is carried out outside, but they do it in a different way.

Insulation, if space permits, can be carried out in the same way as in a frame building, fixing the bars on the walls and placing mineral wool between them, and then closing the structure gypsum plasterboards... Wallpaper or any other decorative material can be glued to this covering.

To do everything right, you need to study in detail each stage of the construction of the extension and adhere to the developed technologies. If you are not confident in your capabilities, you feel a clear lack of skills and experience in construction, it is better to entrust this enough hard work skilled craftsmen.

To protect against moisture floor covering of an extension it is necessary to arrange a reliable waterproofing of the floors, which protects the overlying layers from penetration groundwater... Preparation is carried out depending on the type of soil, making, if necessary, excavating it to the required depth. For example, wet soils have a soft base, therefore, concrete preparation with a soft base is arranged on a bedding layer of sand with a thickness of 200 ÷ 300 mm and crushed stone with a thickness of at least 40 mm. For device floors in the annex in residential buildings, crushed stone is pressed into the ground by a rammer or roller until a roller weighing about 70 kg leaves traces of passage on the ground. It is a good idea to saturate the crushed stone underlayment with a uniform continuous layer of hot bitumen primer, about 6 mm thick, on top of which you can spread a carpet of roll or film waterproofing materials.
According to the compacted crushed stone preparation, the underlying layer is made of concrete of the M-300 brand. And in this case, it is advisable to introduce special hydrophobic additives into the concrete composition to ensure increased water resistance of the floors. The thickness of the concrete layer is taken depending on the planned loads on the floors. If in the annex to residential building no production equipment will be installed, floors can be taken with a thickness of about 100mm. The concrete mixture should be laid continuously: the interval between the end of the compaction of one layer and the laying of the next layer should not exceed 1 hour. Special attention should be given to the compaction of concrete at the joints of the bottoms and walls, as well as at the fittings and embedded parts available, if necessary. By concrete preparation you can perform penetrating waterproofing.
Then the floors are covered with heated bitumen with a layer thickness of at least 2 mm. After that, a coating of waterproofing or other similar material is spread on the non-hardened primer layer in strips, connecting the strips with an overlap of 100 ÷ 200 mm and spreading the seam with bitumen. If the water table is high, then it is advisable to apply a second layer on the floor after that. bituminous mastic at least 5mm thick, leveling it with a toothed rack.
On top of the hardened bituminous waterproofing, without violating its integrity, they arrange thermal insulation layer... As a heater, you can also use the materials indicated in the question, the layer thickness of which depends on the required conditions.
On top of the heat-insulating layer, it is necessary to lay a waterproofing carpet on the walls with the plant and to make a protective reinforced cement-sand floor screed with a thickness of at least 50 mm. In this case, the reinforcement must have a protective concrete layer of at least 30 mm. Avoiding complete drying cement-sand screed, it is necessary to perform its "ironing" - grouting the top layer of the floor with dry cement.
Unfortunately, the message does not indicate which flooring it is planned in the future - you are not going to walk barefoot on concrete floors. Therefore, if you are going to lay laminate, parquet or some other material, then moisture from concrete base did not penetrate the floor covering, it is necessary to first lay a film waterproofing.
The foundation for non-load-bearing internal partitions in a residential building can be made of the tape shallow-buried type, which is a concrete or reinforced concrete strip. The tape is laid under interior walls buildings, maintaining the same cross-sectional shape along the entire perimeter of the foundation. To adhere it to the foundation under the outer walls, you can use pins from the reinforcement, which are laid in the holes drilled in the "old" foundation.
For the foundation, a trench is dug with a depth of 500 ÷ 700 mm, at the bottom of which a sand filling is made with a thickness of 200 ÷ 300 mm, and on top of it a crushed stone layer is 150 ÷ 200 mm. Sandy must be thoroughly tamped, wetting. Having installed the formwork, the foundation strip is poured with concrete, which should be 200 ÷ 300mm above the ground level. To increase the strength characteristics, steel reinforcement can be laid in the foundation body.
The width of such a foundation depends on the thickness of the partitions, as well as on whether the floor beams will rest on it.