Build an extension from foam blocks. What should be the foundation for an extension to a foam block house? How to choose a foundation for annex to a brick building

A built house always wants to be improved: a desire wakes up to increase the area, to attach something to it. One of the extension options is a porch made of foam blocks. You can use the veranda as a dining area or a place to relax. For presentability, the extension can be decorated with decor, make a single composition with the house.

Before you start adding a veranda to the house, you need to decide on the size of the structure and the type of foundation used. Also, special attention should be paid to checking the condition of the soil and examining the wall of the house and the roof, to which the future veranda will adjoin.

Thematic material:

How to attach a veranda to a log house

It will be necessary to draw up a draft of the future extension. If it is simple, then a drawing is enough. But on it, the important parts are given in as much detail as possible.

The nuances of construction.

Will it be necessary to dismantle the elements of the roof of the house?
How to choose the type of connection between the veranda and the house?
Where will the veranda entrance be located: separately or through the house?

The choice of the type of extension, size, determination of the amount of funds and building materials - the task of answering the questions presented.

For your information! Usually the design of the veranda, especially the foam block version, does not differ complex elements... Without special knowledge, the structure can be erected independently, without the help of professionals.

Foundation

After choosing a project, it's time to pour the foundation. But first you need to find out - what is the foundation under the main structure. This will be required for the owners of old houses or those who purchased the building. For study, a shufr (digging) is made 1 by 1 m. The depth is to the base. The main rule is to fill in the same type of foundation that is under the main structure. If this is neglected, then an expansion joint will be needed. If you have any doubts about the foundation, it is better to consult with a specialist by showing a photo.

For your information! The purpose expansion joint- reduce the load on the main foundation. It occurs due to temperature changes, subsidence of the soil and other natural phenomena... Used for an extension to wooden house.

tape;
columnar.

The first one is created by the solid fill method. The second - with the help of bricks, on its separate pillars. It is cheaper than tape. The depth of the pit is no deeper than the foundation of the house. After pouring, the foundation is covered with a waterproofing material.

The attached terrace is separate question... If there is a foundation under it of sufficient strength, you can build a veranda on the terrace. In the absence of a foundation or its insufficient strength, you will have to re-fill it.

Construction of an extension

An additional structure is installed on the foundation, which will serve to expand the area of the house. It is beneficial to use foam blocks due to their large size, low cost and low weight. The large size of the blocks will speed up construction, and the low weight will allow you to reduce the cost of the foundation and carry out construction with a maximum of one assistant.

Building walls

The main issue is the connection of the walls of the auxiliary and main buildings. The connection is made with metal staples or fittings.

To build quality walls, you need to start at the corners. A simple and light mortar or special glue - these materials are needed to hold the foam concrete together. In order for the solution to set better with the blocks, they must be moistened with water.

Masonry features:

seam thickness - 3 cm and no more;
compliance of the masonry with the level;
align the level vertically: increase / decrease the thickness of the seam;
block irregularities are removed with a grinder.

Attention! Each new level foam blocks need to be shifted 15 cm relative to the other to the side. That is, you cannot put a block on a block. This will increase the strength of the building at times.

How to attach a veranda to a house made of high strength foam blocks - put the blocks correctly and nothing will happen to them during operation

Roofs and lintels for windows and doors

U-shaped blocks are used for jumpers. Their advantages:

a light weight;
the possibility of creating an opening with a width of more than 1.75 m.

U-shaped blocks are placed together with formwork or metal profiles. You can use a bar made of wood. The block has a groove where the fittings are installed. At the end of the operations, the block is filled with concrete. The blocks must be attached carefully.

As for the roof, its construction depends on the project.

Shed is a logical continuation of the roof of the house above the veranda.
A gable roof requires more rafters and finances. With her, it will be cooler in the veranda in winter. Only insulation can save. The rafters must be durable, made of high-quality wood or metal profiles. Tiles are placed on top. In right attached roof water should not penetrate to the house through cracks.

Combining foam blocks with a wooden wall at home

The addition of a foam block veranda to a wooden house makes you take into account the nuances:

correct combination of different wall materials;
the foundation of a wooden house always shrinks.

Wood is susceptible to deformation due to changes in air temperature and humidity. Therefore, between the wooden structure and the veranda of foam blocks, an expansion joint is made - a flexible layer. The easiest way to create is to use polyurethane foam... The seam thickness is 1-1.5 cm.

As soon as the construction is completed, they move on to the decor and interior landscaping of the veranda. Bare foam blocks are not presentable, therefore, the walls from the outside and inside must be revetted with any material you like.

Laying the foundation for the veranda and erecting walls

Before you start arranging the foundation of a future building, you need to know at what depth the main foundation is. For this, a pit is made, measuring 1 * 1 m. Its depth should be sufficient in order to have an idea of the old foundation of the house. The best option for laying a base for a veranda is a foundation of the same type and size as the main one. If this cannot be done for some reason, then a good expansion joint must be created. The sequence of its bookmark is as follows:

A small distance of about 5 cm is left between the foundations, where boards, previously wrapped in roofing material, are laid.
At this stage of laying the blocks, a gap of 2 cm is left between the walls adjacent to each other, which is filled with insulation and sealant. After the completion of all work, the resulting seam is closed with panels. Mineral wool is perfect as an insulating material.

photo of mineral wool

As for the foundation, most often a shallow belt is made for foam concrete buildings, but another option is also suitable for the construction of a veranda - a columnar made of bricks. This type of foundation is not only strong enough but also economical financially and in terms of labor costs.

After installing the foundation, you can safely go to the masonry of the walls, it is absolutely similar to the usual foam concrete or brick. You can learn more about this from this article "laying walls from foam blocks".

Features of the construction of a veranda

A special place in the construction of the wall box of the additional extension is the arrangement of jumpers. For the veranda, special ones are more applicable - U-shaped, they are quite light. By using them, critical loads are not applied to the foundation. Thanks to such jumpers, you can make openings more than 1.5 m long, in order to make them you need reliable U-shaped foam concrete, metal and wooden formwork, commercial heavy concrete mortar and, of course, reinforcement with a diameter of 10 mm.

First, blocks of a special shape are installed, then the formwork, after which the reinforcement is laid in the previously prepared foam block, the final stage of making the lintel is pouring the resulting structure with concrete, which is carefully rammed and leveled.

As for any structure made of lightweight concrete, an armored belt is needed for a foam block veranda, it will give rigidity to the entire structure and protect its walls from cracking and destruction. For its device, you will need the same materials as for creating a specific jumper. The technology of pouring an armored belt is similar to driving the same jumper.

Another significant feature of the extension is its attachment to the main structure; for these purposes, reinforcement is used. To make such a rigid connection, it is necessary to cut out in every third row of the foam concrete wall small grooves measuring 3 * 3 cm and a depth of 5 cm, reinforcement is inserted into them and poured with concrete solution or a special adhesive. V load-bearing wall at home, a hole is also drilled, the second end of the reinforcing bar is inserted and concreted. With the help of such a connection, the subsidence of the porch made of aerated concrete will be reduced to almost zero.

Extension of a veranda to a wooden house

Particularly noteworthy is the construction of a foam concrete veranda next to a wooden house. This is due to the different density of materials and types of foundations. As a rule, they are lighter under wooden structures, such differences can lead to excessive and uneven shrinkage of both buildings. Such specific construction should only take place under the guidance of experienced builders in the field.

Useful video

Output

Choosing high-quality foam concrete products as the main wall material for an extension at an affordable price, you get a guarantee of the durability and reliability of your future veranda.

Happy construction!

The need to add additional premises often arises. Garage, boiler room, utility block - all these premises are most convenient to have nearby, close at hand. In addition, the size of the site does not always allow you to erect the desired building at a distance. The simplest solution to the issue is the construction of an extension from aerated concrete to the house.

Expert opinion

Mikhail Fromov

Ask an expert

The main design issues are the type of foundation and the way the extension is connected to the wall of the house. The durability and stability of the new structure depends on the quality of the solution to these problems.

Foundation type

Most often, the foundation is built separately from the general foundation of the house. This is due to two reasons:

Lack of a common foundation area on which additional space can be built. There are no questions here - when building a house, it is very rare to immediately fill in the base for the future extension.
The need to decouple the foundations of the house and annex from aerated concrete due to the difference in weight. The load that an aerated concrete extension to the house will inevitably create may turn out to be unbearable for the foundation of the main structure. It was not designed to be accepted excess weight, as a result of the appearance of an additional load, there is a risk of distortions, settlements or other violations of the geometry of the foundation.

Only the right decision there will be a construction separate basis... Now you need to decide which type of foundation will be the most correct. There are several factors to consider here:

What is the annex to the house intended for - it will be a residential or auxiliary building, will it be heated, etc.
The size of the additional room.
Hydrogeological conditions of the site, depth of groundwater and soil composition.
Are there plans to create a basement, cellar, etc.

All these factors together will determine the value of the bearing capacity and the type of foundation.

Possible types of foundation

Plate. It has the form of a monolithic slab on a sand and gravel bed. It shows itself well on heaving soils with noticeable seasonal movements - the base "floats" on the surface, changing its position along with the ground. The disadvantage of this type is the high labor intensity of work and the inability to build a basement or cellar.
Tape. The most common type of foundation. Allows you to make a basement, and it can be built later, when the walls are completed. The costs for such a base are lower than for a slab, labor costs are much less.
Pile. This foundation is used in areas with high level groundwater. Piles are driven (or screwed, poured) into the ground until contact with solid layers appears. The support turns out to be strong and reliable, but the construction of a basement is excluded. In addition, it is dangerous to drive piles in the immediate vicinity of a residential building. The way out can be screw piles that can be screwed by hand.

The choice of this or that type of base depends on the capabilities of the site and the owner of the house. When the construction of extensions from aerated concrete to brick house, then the value of the additional load is in any case less than the main one. For wooden houses, especially frame houses, the situation can be reversed.

Expert opinion

Mikhail Fromov

Construction of houses, outbuildings, terraces and verandas.

Ask an expert

For small outbuildings, the tape shallow type of foundation is most often used, less often - the slab type, for which they use ready-made reinforced concrete slabs laid on a pillow of ASG. It should be borne in mind that for laying the slabs, equipment is needed, which is not always able to drive up to the house at a close distance due to the presence of other buildings or other obstacles.

Work order

First of all, it is necessary to draw up a project plan for the work being prepared and obtain all the necessary permits. The procedure is quite lengthy, but the consequences of unauthorized construction can be more unpleasant.

Then the construction of the foundation begins. The site is carefully marked, the corners are marked with pegs, between which the cords are pulled. The correctness of trenching under the base will be monitored on them.
At the bottom of the trench, an ASM with a thickness of 10-15 cm is poured to level and create a drainage layer. It is carefully rammed.
Formwork is installed, the inner surface is lined with roofing material (waterproofing), and a reinforcing cage is being constructed.
Concrete is poured, the tape is cured until completely dry.
The formwork is disassembled, the second stage begins - the construction of the walls.

Expert opinion

Mikhail Fromov

Construction of houses, outbuildings, terraces and verandas.

Ask an expert

Aerated concrete is a simple and easy-to-use material. It is relatively light, it is laid according to the brick principle, but the size of the blocks significantly speeds up the work.

An extension to a wooden house made of aerated concrete can be carried out even by an unprepared person without experience, the main thing is to learn some rules. For example:

Use the familiar cement mortar not recommended, you need special glue.
Foam concrete is soft, it can be cut with an ordinary carpenter's hacksaw, which allows you to very accurately adjust the blocks to size.
Nails do not stick to the material. Anchors must be used.

The walls are going up the desired height, tied with a Mauerlat on which it is installed rafter system... Most often, an extension to a house made of foam concrete has a flat pitched roof, which greatly simplifies the installation of rafters. The slope of the roof should be directed away from the walls.

Connecting the annex to the walls of the house

A serious question is how best to attach the annex to the walls of the house. To save materials and labor costs, they often try to use the wall of the house as the fourth wall of the annex. In no case should this be done. Seasonal movements of the soil and natural shrinkage of an extension to a house made of aerated concrete will cause changes in the geometry of the walls, which is fraught with the formation of cracks or even destruction.

It is impossible to tie the walls of the house and the annex, in fact, it is necessary separate building, only erected close to the house.

All abutment areas must have elastic expansion joints to compensate for movement of the annex or the main structure. The place where the roof joins the wall is also equipped with a movable elastic joint, which provides the possibility of smooth movement without breaking the tightness of the seam.

Expert opinion

Mikhail Fromov

Construction of houses, outbuildings, terraces and verandas.

Ask an expert

Construction of an extension from aerated concrete to wooden walls is simple enough. The main condition is not to tie them together in a rigid way and to ensure the drain of rainwater away from the walls. All other issues are resolved in the usual way: the floors are filled with a screed, the overlap is most often made of wood in order to lighten the weight of the annex. Work must be done in warm time years, for which you will need to calculate in advance the timing of all the necessary operations. With a small amount of additional space, the work can be completely done alone or with an assistant during one warm season.

Video about an extension of aerated concrete to a wooden house

How to properly install an extension to a foam block house

Advantages of foam concrete blocks
Stages of the construction of the extension
- Features of laying the foundation for the extension of the old house
- Features of laying the foundation for an extension for a do-it-yourself house
How to mark the foundation of the extension
- Window and door lintels
- Installation of a reinforced belt

Many owners of private mansions, even the most spacious, after a while begin to feel a shortage of useful meters. In this case, an excellent option is to add a veranda to a foam block house. Also, if desired, on such additional meters, you can easily equip an additional bedroom, boiler room or bathroom.

A good option for expanding the area of the house is the veranda extension.

Advantages of foam concrete blocks

Foam concrete blocks are the ideal building material for those who decide to build a house on their own. Compared to other materials used for the construction of walls, foam concrete has a low cost. But at the same time, he also has a number positive qualities, thanks to which foam concrete is popular among private developers.

Foam concrete blocks are light and simple. With an ordinary hacksaw, you can saw them and give them the desired shape.
No skills are required to work with this material.
Foam concrete blocks can be easily transported.

Experts determine the properties of the material and its trade mark by the density of the foam concrete. The lower the density, the higher the heat and sound insulation properties of the foam concrete blocks.

Foam concrete does not have through pores like aerated concrete, so it does not absorb water.

The higher the density, the stronger the foam block will be. If a summer veranda is being built, then it is better to choose denser foam blocks, and blocks with a lower density coefficient are ideal for arranging a bathroom.

If for the construction of a veranda to choose between blocks of foam concrete and aerated concrete, then in terms of fire resistance, environmental friendliness, sound and thermal insulation, these materials are equal to each other. But aerated concrete, due to its porous structure, easily absorbs moisture, so it is more often used for internal floors. Hence, for the construction outer walls foam concrete is more suitable.

The decision to make an extension can be detrimental to the foundation of the main house. Often, due to inexperience, people lay the wrong foundation and after a few months cracks appear between the house and the extension.

The article describes the process of erecting an extension to a house from foam blocks with all possible mistakes and advice on how to extend her term of office. How to make window and door lintels and what danger awaits when planning an opening wider than 1.75 m.

Finally, you will find some ideas for decorating and using the attached space.

Why are many extensions to the house made of foam blocks

Most people, when choosing a material for an extension, are increasingly inclined to use foam blocks. They have pros and cons, but there are more pros. The main advantages of the properties of foam blocks:

Even a non-professional builder can handle the installation. Thanks to this, you can save on attracting specialists and complete the extension yourself from start to finish;
Installation speed - adhesive solution between foam blocks dries much faster than concrete mortar;
The material is fireproof - does not support combustion and does not burn;
The minimum sediment is provided by the porous structure;
Environmental friendliness - the composition is safe for nature;
The porosity of the material also provides low thermal conductivity - the masonry of foam blocks in 2 rows does not need to be insulated;
The service life of buildings made of foam blocks reaches 50 years and more.
The loose structure of the blocks allows you to cut them with a hacksaw, but it is better to use a circular saw;
Structural strength - it is difficult for intruders to break through a plastered wall made of foam blocks;
Due to its lightness, it can be used for construction on all types of soil and save on a strong foundation;
Low cost compared to brick.

Insignificant material flaws:

The great influence of atmospheric influences on the material requires the construction of a structure in dry and warm weather and finishing or waterproofing after construction;
The attractiveness of the appearance is permissible only for the loft style, which is not yet very common in the country.

Step 1: planning

At this stage, the conditions for construction are studied: the soil, the material of the house and its age. An extension project is being developed, taking into account the number of storeys, the number of windows, the presence of doors and stairs.

The composition of the soil determines the type of future foundation. For example, on clay soil with a close location of groundwater, it is reasonable to make a floating foundation. Otherwise, a few months after construction, the extension will begin to move away from the house. On earthy or rocky soils, enough strip foundation adjusted for shrinkage.

You can build an extension from foam blocks right next to a wooden, brick and clay house. The construction process will differ by fastening the mortgages at the junction. Old houses have sunk deeper into the ground. Therefore, the age of the house determines the size of the expansion joint - the distance by which the extension must sink in order to become equal to the main structure.

It is better to partially realize the desire to make a two-story extension of foam blocks - it weighs a lot and greatly affects the draft. In this case, the 2nd floor is made of chipboard (chipboard). An economical and safe option, but the final decision depends on an analysis of the construction conditions and the wishes of the home owners.

Before construction starts:

A project for the future extension is being developed;
The expansion joint is indicated;
The number of foam blocks, cement, consumables is calculated;
A place for temporary storage of building materials is being prepared.

Step 2: choosing the type of foundation

The main types of foundations that are used in the construction of an extension from foam blocks:

Tape- a strip of reinforced concrete along the perimeter of the building, used if a garage or basement is planned in the extension. For the construction of a one-story extension from foam blocks, a shallow foundation with a depth of 50-70 cm is suitable. For a two-story one, it is buried with a foundation 20-30 cm below the soil freezing depth;
Columnar- a system of pillars in places of increased ground load, suitable for light panoramic annexes for the construction of immovable and non-porous soils;
Pile- variety columnar foundation but using large metal pillars. Withstands a weight of 2-5 tons, is used in construction on soils with high buoyancy;
Slab — monolithic slab from concrete as the base of the whole house.

In private construction, when erecting additional buildings, a strip or slab foundation is often used.

Step 3: pouring the foundation

There are 2 options for tying the foundations of the house and the extension: rigid, when the foundation of a new structure is adjacent to the old one, and using an expansion joint. Rigid is used in the recent construction of a house, which has just ended its shrinkage period. Not used if clay predominates in the soil. The expansion joint is simple, economical and suitable for inexperienced builders.

A rigid foundation connection is formed between the following foundation types:

"Tape-tape"- part of the foundation of the house 1.5-2 m long is dug out, fits sand pillow, at a depth of ¾ of the base, reinforcement of 12-14 mm is driven in, an extension frame is formed;
"Stove-stove"- it is used in the presence of protrusions from the basement, which are made during the construction of a house from foam blocks. The base of the slabs under the houses should protrude at least 30 cm - in this case, the reinforcement will be exposed, connected to the extension slab.

The expansion joint is more reliable, reduces the risk of the destructive effect of settlement. The extension is being built on a separate foundation next to the house. In this case, it is better to use closed loop grounds. Sheets of roofing material are laid between the bases and along the perimeter of the new foundation. When using this option, the draft of the extension will not damage the foundation of the house.

Ideal - if the foundation of the extension was laid when pouring the foundation of the whole house and temporarily with decking for waterproofing.

Step 4: building the walls

The placement of gas silicate blocks starts from the corners of the extension:

The bottom of the foam blocks is moistened for better adhesion with the connecting solution;
The first 2-3 rows are additionally protected with a waterproof compound to protect against capillary moisture;
Before applying the next layer of solution, the top of the foam blocks is moistened;
The first row is laid using a level, if there are slight irregularities, the quality of the masonry will suffer;
It is customary to carry out external masonry using an adhesive solution - the layers between the blocks are less than 2-3 mm, due to which the total area of the "cold bridges" is reduced and the weight of the extension is reduced. Internal partitions can be made using concrete mortar to save money;
The preparation of the mixture is described on the packages of glue, it is applied to the horizontal base of the block soaked in water, and then to the vertical one;
The horizontal surface of the masonry is leveled by sanding with a trowel. Dust is swept away or removed with a construction vacuum cleaner.

Every 4 rows of masonry, reinforcement is laid in the corners to tie the building and prevent cracks. Using a circular saw, a square is made with sides of 3 cm and a depth of 5 cm. The groove for laying the reinforcement is knocked out with a hammer and chisel. The space around the reinforcement is sealed with adhesive mortar.

Step 5: lintels for doors and windows

The desire to make a panoramic veranda in an extension of foam blocks is faced with the problem of the maximum possible opening width of 1.75 m. The large load exceeds the tensile strength of the foam blocks. For such cases, silicate bricks or cinder blocks are used in construction.

When calculating the height of the lintels, the thickness of the floor is taken into account - it increases due to laying a warm floor, leveling, creating tiers.

Jumpers are made with removable or fixed formwork.

In the first option, the instructions follow:

Frames are made of reinforcement of the required length;
Support bars are installed from 2 sides of the opening, shields are attached to the horizontal formwork made of "forty";
Foam concrete blocks are sawn along the length to cover the inner surface of the formwork;
The reinforcement frame is placed inside, the side with big amount twigs. The structure is fastened with spacers;
Blocks are re-moistened for better adhesion, filled with concrete mortar with inside openings and are compacted;
The poured surface is leveled to the level of the masonry and smoothed out.

In the manufacture of lintels with fixed formwork, U-shaped blocks are used. This is a more expensive option, but it saves time. construction works... To install U-blocks, proceed as follows:

At the top of the opening, in the corners, a block is placed with a support cut out by 25 cm;
Using a level, irregularities are eliminated horizontal surfaces supports;
U-blocks are installed on a regular adhesive solution with the hole up;
The reinforcement frame is laid on top, more rods are concentrated at the bottom. The structure is rigidly fixed with spacers;
Each layer of foam block masonry above the lintel is compacted with a trowel.

When installing windows, contact your nearest bank in advance to obtain "warm credits". The state compensates part of the cost of energy-efficient windows. Usually, the amount reaches 10% - for this money you can order the shelter of white metal-plastic windows with wood-like lamination.

Step 6: Reinforced belt to increase the bearing capacity of the walls

A belt of reinforcement rods provides annexes with protection from wind loads and increases the bearing capacity of the walls. It is made during construction, right on the walls due to its high weight. To mount the reinforcing belt, do the following:

Reinforcement rods are placed in the prepared wooden templates at the corners of the row. The frames are welded together and aligned;
The reinforcement belt is lined with longitudinal strips of foam blocks, cut circular saw;
The template is well wetted and filled with concrete mortar.

The technology of forming a reinforced belt resembles the installation of jumpers.

Step 7: roof

The overlap is done a few days after laying the upper reinforced belt, when the strength of the concrete increases. For a foam block extension, aerated concrete slabs or a wooden frame are used as an overlap. In the second version, all elements are covered with compounds to protect against fire, pests, and the tribe.

As a roof, metal tiles are the most popular and attractive, but slate is also used. For construction flat roof for warm extension the instructions follow:

Load-bearing beams are installed along the perimeter;
A layer of boards is laid on top, with an overlap of 15 cm roofing felt or tol;
The next layer is a dense layer of expanded clay (porous pebbles of a reddish-brown color), check that there is a slight slope in the direction of precipitation;
Filling the insulation layer with a cement solution;
Treatment of the screed with a bituminous primer, laying roofing material.

If the width of the roof for the extension does not exceed 6 m, a beam with a cut of 15 * 10 cm is used for them.

To equip the roof from monolithic concrete slabs, I-steel beams are used as supports. For a 5 m roof span, 15 cm beams are purchased. The recommended concrete grade is 250.

A concrete mixer is used to achieve the correct concrete consistency. the composition of the solution is crushed stone with a grain size of 20 mm and cement PC-400. The solution is mixed in following proportions: 3 parts cement, 4 parts sand, 2 parts water. If necessary, water is gradually added to the concrete mixer.

Boards are attached to the bottom of the beams, roofing material is covered on top. The next layer is reinforced mesh profile with a diameter of less than 1 cm and a mesh size of 20 * 20 cm. To predict the repair of a flat roof in the future, the mesh rods in the places of the lining are fastened with knitting wire. In some cases, glue can be used. The main thing is that the mesh does not slip when pouring the screed.

Before the screed is formed, fine-grained crushed stone is poured under the mesh. In this case, a gap of 4 cm is formed to separate the mesh and the roofing material.

It is best to completely fill all parts of the roof in one day. It is undesirable to fill the roof in one or more strips. This will improve the quality of work. After pouring, concrete is rammed manually or using special equipment. During tamping, you need to carefully monitor the position of the mesh - it should not move, tear or slide off. At the final stage, the structure is sheltered plastic wrap... This will prevent moisture from evaporating from the surface at elevated temperatures and keep the top layer from cracking.

Concrete stays under the film from 3 days. Completely dry concrete floor covered with a layer of insulating materials. The bias towards future precipitation is taken into account. At the end, at the final stage, the final screed is done, the installation of the roll carpet. If desired, the monolithic roof is additionally insulated before the shelter with metal tiles.

Step 8: exterior and interior decoration

At the end of the construction of the extension, it is insulated with polystyrene panels. Insulation is carried out with outside so that the dew point is not inside the structure. Styrofoam is laid in one or two rows around the perimeter of the extension using standard technology.

Outside, the walls are finished with plastering with painting, siding, block heiss, decorative stone.

The peculiarity of foam blocks is that during construction a fairly flat wall is obtained from them and for its interior decoration there is enough plaster and painting. A few ideas for interior decoration of the extension:

Without use exterior decoration, you need to protect the extension with a waterproofing layer. Otherwise, the foam blocks will become saturated with moisture and begin to gradually collapse.

Conclusion

An extension from foam blocks is an economical option for a quick expansion of living space. If desired, such a structure can be erected independently in 2-3 weeks. The main thing is to analyze the conditions for construction in advance and correctly draw up a project.

No matter how large the house may seem, almost every home owner sooner or later has to deal with the problem of a lack of free space. A room is required for the arrangement of a boiler room, warehouse or closed veranda... Attach even small room to the main box of the house will cost a tidy sum, so most often the addition to the building is built in the form of an extension to the house made of foam blocks.

What gives the use of foam blocks for construction, problems and advantages

The material is very light and warm, and most importantly - inexpensive, therefore it is on it that most amateur builders and firms choose it. The idea of using a foam block for building an extension to a house, in addition to the possibility of making blocks with your own hands and a certain amount of environmental friendliness, also entails purely practical benefits:

Reducing the cost of arranging the foundation, the weight of the extension from the foam block is two to three times less, respectively, the amount and cost of concrete and metal laid in the foundation will decrease by the same amount;
The material is ideally processed with ordinary saws and hacksaws for metal, there is no need to rent or buy special equipment for the manufacture of curly elements;
Costs for delivery, loading and unloading of the foam block to the site of the extension are reduced by 20-30%;
The ability to save money on the insulation of the extension.

This is not to say that the foam block is ideal material for home construction, it has its drawbacks, just like any other building material. Before attaching a foam block extension to the house, it will be useful to learn about several features of the material.

Secrets of using a foam block to build an extension to a house

It is advisable to build structures from a foam block with a height of no more than two floors and with a wall span of up to 6 m.That is, a huge extension, half a house in size, cannot be attached to the main building.

The reasons for introducing restrictions on the size of extensions are two features of the material:

The small rigidity of the foam block, even with a wall width of 40 cm, the rigidity of the masonry is clearly not enough to ensure the solidity of the building box, you have to use reinforcing belts of steel reinforcement;
Weak load bearing capacity and the strength of the foam block. Despite the fact that in theory the material is able to withstand contact pressure at the level of 35-50 kg / cm 2, its strength is estimated as concrete or brick of the M10-M15 brand.

For your information! Any structure made of foam concrete will shrink and settle on the foundation within two to three years, so for construction it is important to buy a foam block in one batch, so that the material laid in the walls is strengthened and deformed evenly throughout the box.

Craftsmen count foam blocks soft material, the weight of one cube is 650-680 kg. From the moment of manufacture and for another 30 years, foam concrete blocks will slowly "shrink", gain density and strength. Indicative data on changes in structure over time are given in the table.

Part of the blocks gain strength due to the absorption of moisture by the cement grain, but some of the increase occurs due to the compression and compaction under pressure of the upper rows. This means that an extension to a house made of foam blocks will shrink for several years, and even more than a brick or expanded clay concrete masonry.

How more room extensions made of foam concrete, the more problems there will be with ensuring its stability and rigidity. But for small extensions to any type of house, the foam block can be considered an ideal material. Why?

First, the ratio of the width of the wall to its length increases significantly. This determines the natural rigidity of the box. For example, with a width of 40 cm, the wall of an extension with a length of 2-3 m does not even need to be reinforced, its rigidity will be sufficient to hold a pitched roof.
Secondly, the extension made of foam concrete has a small mass, which means that, with proper planning, the distribution of the load will practically not affect the foundation, will not tear off the wall of the main building and will not crack in the masonry made of foam blocks.

The choice of foundation design for the extension

The correct selection of the base layout for the extension box is considered the most difficult planning stage. Using foam concrete blocks, the easiest way is to build an extension to the house from foam blocks. Two structures made of the same type of material will behave exactly the same, therefore, if the house or summer cottage is already made of foam concrete, the problem of choosing a foundation for an extension is solved automatically - its structure should be the same as that of the main building.

For wooden, concrete or brick buildings, the foundation of the extension is carried out according to one of three schemes:

Concrete strip foundation;
Pile base design;
Reinforced concrete slab.

The specific choice of the foundation scheme largely depends on the nature of the soil, the terrain, the size of the extension and the material of the walls of the main building, so we will dwell on them in more detail.

How to choose a foundation for annex to a brick building

The best choice for an extension to a brick house made of foam blocks would be a variant of the classic strip foundation. It is not for nothing that the golden rule of construction recommends making a foundation of the same type for an extension as for the main structure. Following the logic, for a small structure made of foam blocks, attached to one of the walls of a brick house, a similar scheme could be recommended. Ideally, an extension would be built on one common foundation of the building's main box.

But such a situation develops quite rarely, so you have to choose:

Build an extension on a ribbon rectangle rigidly connected to the base of a brick building;
Make an attached room in the form of an independent structure;
Attach the box on a more powerful and massive foundation than that of a brick building.

The scheme works perfectly if the main brick building is installed on a full-fledged strip foundation, in which case it would be enough to make a shallow strip for a small attached box made of foam concrete blocks. In this case, for the extension, a closed foundation is made to a depth of 30 cm and a base width of 40-50 cm. Such a tape is capable of ensuring reliable retention of an extension from foam blocks, but only under one condition - if the bearing capacity of the soil allows. Stony soils with a large amount of detrital rocks will hold the extension even during spring floods.

If the brick main building is installed on a full-fledged strip foundation, then the base of the box made of foam concrete blocks can be rigidly connected to the mother foundation under the brick walls. To do this, a trench is dug along the foundation tape, concrete is cut out to the reinforcement and bows from the reinforcing rods are welded. After pouring the strip foundation under the foam concrete box, an expansion joint or joint must remain between the two strips.

In this way, it is possible to make a full-fledged closed foundation for a weak box of foam concrete blocks, which, due to the powerful fully-buried concrete base of a brick house, will hold the extension in a bow with brickwork.

In all other cases, you need to use either a slab or pile foundation based on Tise piles. One of the options for an extension from foam blocks to a wooden house is shown in the video

Foundation for an extension to a wooden house

There is no fundamental difference between a brick and a wooden house when choosing the type of foundation; in this case, experts recommend using the same type of base for an extension as that of a wooden house, or a more powerful one, for example, a pile-grillage structure.

As a rule, two types of foundations are used for wooden houses - pile and tape. If the depth and power of the tape of the main building is at least 80 cm and 30 cm, respectively, then an extension to a wooden house from foam blocks can be built even on an open U-shaped foundation. The concrete tape of the extension will need to be tied to the reinforcing frame of the wooden house. Naturally, a wooden house must stand for at least 5 years until the extension is arranged.

If you have to make an extension to a wooden house from foam blocks much earlier, for example, a year or two after the completion of work on the main box, then the attached room should be made out in the form of an independent structure. This means that a closed strip foundation is installed next to the wooden house.

An expansion joint of 30-40 mm is left between the base of the house and the tape poured under the extension, and the ends of the foundation reinforcement bars are released. For the period of shrinkage processes, the boxes made of foam blocks, the two foundation tapes remain unconnected, and the gap between the wall of a wooden house and the foam concrete masonry is temporarily sewn up with thermal insulation and clogged with a bar or any other finishing material.

For your information! The bundle can be done no earlier than three years after the completion of the construction of the attached premises.

After the completion of the shrinkage, the walls are sealed with elastic material, and the reinforcement of the foundations is welded into one bundle by electric welding.

Erection of walls and roofs

After the completion of work on the arrangement of the foundation, it will be necessary to pause for at least a month in order to complete the shrinkage processes and a set of strength in concrete base... The next step will be the manufacture of waterproofing and the construction of walls.

Foam concrete block masonry

Before laying the first row of foam concrete blocks, it is necessary to make a full-fledged waterproofing. The foam concrete mass turns out to be very sensitive to condensation and groundwater, so the minimum that will have to be done is to lay the roll bituminous material on the basement of the foundation tape.

Further, it is recommended to make an armopoyas - a concrete casting with two or four reinforcing bars. Only after that you can start laying the foam blocks. The material is laid out on the lower armored belt using a special glue with high adhesion to concrete surfaces, an attempt to use a regular mortar usually results in a very thick joint and increased shrinkage of the walls of the extension.

Every three rows, the foam block masonry is reinforced with two strands of steel reinforcing bar. Even if a U-shaped foundation was chosen for an extension from foam blocks to a wooden house, the extension box should be closed, that is, not three walls attached to a brick or wooden wall at home, but a full-fledged box of four walls. Only in this case the extension building will have sufficient strength and rigidity. It is clear that for the construction of the fourth wall, it will be necessary to lay a transverse beam between the ends of the open foundation.

The rafter system is usually built according to a single-slope scheme, while the racks for the higher part of the ramp are recommended to be sewn to the wall of the main building with cruciform struts. This solution will avoid the formation of gaps between the roof of the extension and the walls of the house.

Conclusion

In the process of erecting an extension, it is often necessary to make changes to the size and height of the attached premises. If you are not sure how the amendments will affect the stability of the building made of foam blocks, the box can be reinforced by laying out internal lintels and walls. They are made in the same way as window openings - on a laid concrete beam or casting in U-shaped blocks. Two internal lintels installed under the ceiling can increase the rigidity of the extension by 30%.

If you decide to expand your home, add an additional entrance hall, living room or hall to the existing area, then an extension to the existing building would be the best option. In the article we will tell you how an extension is made to a wooden house from foam blocks.

Distinctive qualities of foam concrete blocks

If we compare brick, wood and aerated concrete in construction, then everything speaks in favor of the latter.

An extension from foam blocks with your own hands will have the following advantages:

Environmental friendliness- used in manufacturing only natural materials that do not emit harmful substances;
Fire safety- buildings made of foam concrete are not subject to fire;
Thermal insulation- low thermal conductivity will ensure a comfortable stay;
Soundproofing- a foam concrete wall will reliably protect from street noise;
Profitability- reduction of labor costs, due to the size of the blocks, and an affordable price;
Ease of installation- ease of processing, cutting, drilling will allow you to quickly adjust the block to any structural unit;
Reliability and durability- the aerated concrete extension will last up to 50 years.

The disadvantages of foam blocks include high hygroscopicity and unpresentable appearance... But these disadvantages are easily corrected by a waterproofing device and finishing the facade with decorative materials.

The first steps

Foam concrete block - cellular concrete obtained by mixing foam, sand, cement and water. It is hygroscopic and ventilated, has high thermal insulation properties, but, nevertheless, structures made of it allow air to pass through well, "breathe".

Any construction is a serious undertaking, it does not tolerate frivolous attitude. To begin with, be sure to have on hand a project of an extension from a foam block, which indicates the type of foundation, the size of the building, the type of roof, the location and dimensions of the openings, the location of communications, the types and amount of materials required.
You can do it yourself in the form of a sketch, but it is better to order from a specialized organization that will take into account all the necessary parameters.

Foundation

For structures made of foam blocks, strip foundations are usually arranged.

They may be:

Monolithic;
Prefabricated;
Brick.

If you plan a solid do-it-yourself extension, which will be a residential part of the house, then the base to be installed must meet two main requirements:

The new building is being built on the same type of foundation as the old one;
The depth of both buildings is done at the same level.

Attention: Docking of foundations in order to avoid destruction of the structure during seasonal shrinkage and ground movements is carried out using an expansion joint. It is a gap of 30–40 mm, which is left between the old and the new base and is filled with insulation.

If necessary, a leveling screed with a thickness of 10–30 mm is placed on the top of the foundation. The horizontality is verified by the building level.

Important! After the concrete has set, waterproofing is done along the screed to protect the material from dripping moisture penetration. It can be a couple of layers of roofing material, techno-nicol, bitumen-based mastic or any other insulating material.

Characteristics of foam blocks

For the construction of walls of a residential building in accordance with SNIP 2-3-79, blocks of the D600, D700, D800 and higher brands are suitable.

Material dimensions are within:

Length 600 mm;
Height 300 mm;
Thickness 150 to 250 mm.

The technical characteristics of foam blocks of different brands have some differences.

For comparison, we give a table:

The table shows that these grades are resistant to low temperatures and are less susceptible to shrinkage. Due to the low thermal conductivity of the material, the building does not require additional insulation.

Blocks with a brand below D600 are used for the construction of less critical structures (terraces, verandas, boiler rooms, baths, etc.).

Wall masonry

How to make an extension from foam blocks?

Consider the key points of the wall arrangement:

Work starts from the highest corner, the first row of blocks is laid on a cement-sand building mixture and carefully aligned horizontally.
The second and subsequent rows are placed on a special glue, close in density to the composition of foam concrete. With a notched trowel, the mixture is evenly distributed over the surface and ends of the block with a layer of 3 mm. The vertical and horizontal seams are completely filled with glue, gaps and voids are not allowed, the excess is cut off with a construction float or plane.

Important! High-quality glue has high penetrating properties, quickly sets, the structure is solid, monolithic, with minimal "cold bridges", which provides excellent thermal insulation. The attached instructions will help you prepare the mixture correctly.

The surface of the previous row is moistened with water before laying the mixture.
For the strength and solidity of the structure, the first and last row of masonry is reinforced with reinforcement with a diameter of 6-10 mm. Also, the wire is laid every 2-3 rows along the entire perimeter of the extension and when arranging openings, jumpers.
To mount the reinforcement on the surface of the blocks with a groove cutter or circular, select two parallel grooves, fill them with glue, in which the wire is embedded. The overlaps of the ends are made at least 300 mm. The photo shows how the grooves look with the laid reinforcement.

Important! The connecting parts of the rods in the grooves should not be located opposite each other, as well as fall on the corners of the extension and the places above the openings. Reinforcement connections in the masonry are arranged in a checkerboard pattern.

Each laid block is aligned vertically and horizontally with a building level.
The corners are made with the obligatory dressing of the seams.
To strengthen the structure and increase the resistance to snow, wind, seismic loads along the perimeter of the walls above the openings, a monolithic reinforced belt... The connection of the frames of the belt is made by welding, butting with overlap and viscous is not recommended.
Floor elements are mounted on the walls only after the concrete of the armored belt has completely set.

After looking at the photos and videos in this article, you yourself can attach additional squares to a wooden house and improve your living conditions.

Even in ancient times, it became clear to mankind that air is the best heat insulator.

Arrangement of fittings for an extension of a house made of aerated concrete blocks.

People decided to take advantage of this property. And today, if available modern materials and the use of nanotechnology, this has not been forgotten. Unless the methods of using air insulation have changed.

To date, the most effective materials from the point of view of thermal insulation are materials that have a low density and contain many air pores inside.

These include fiberglass or basalt, polyurethane foam, expanded polystyrene, hollow brick (the more of these voids, the more heat-saving the brick is). Foamed concrete is considered the most effective of modern materials. One of its varieties, namely, oh, will be discussed. It is especially indispensable when an extension to the house is needed, and not a whole structure.

Scheme of an extension of an additional room.

Aerated concrete is considered an environmentally friendly material, which, due to its porous structure, has strength, lightness and excellent thermal insulation. The combination of all this makes it more popular among all other types of building materials and allows it to be used both in the construction of entire houses and various extensions to the house. It can be a sauna, veranda, bathroom or heating unit. Easy, fast, without much extra costs... The main thing to remember: before starting to build an annex to the house, it would be nice to objectively assess the condition of the building itself. If it's new enough, then the extension makes sense. Perhaps it will be much more profitable to demolish a very old house and build a new one than use this inexpensive way expansion of living space.

The basis of any building

Scheme of connecting the new foundation to the old one.

Before you start making an extension to, you need to measure the angles of the future structure. Their diagonals must be at the same distance from the wall of the house and have the same length. Next, you need to determine the thickness of the foundation, for middle lane the optimal will be 40-50 cm.The depth should be 40-60 cm, which is associated with freezing of the soil in winter time... A metal belt is made according to the dimensions of the dug trench. For this, fittings are used. Then holes are hollowed out in the old foundation and a welded metal belt is attached.

Then the foundation itself is poured, for which a sand-gravel mixture is prepared and cement is added and pure water... You will need a lot of water: 125 liters for 1 cube of concrete. You should also know that the strength of the cement used directly depends on the duration of its storage: the more it is stored, the more of its strength it loses. After pouring, the foundation is given time to settle, about 2 weeks. Next, a brick base is laid out. And only after that, an extension of aerated concrete is made directly.

Concrete blower

An attempt has been made to improve the properties of concrete by using a blowing agent.

Diagram of the technology of the device of a columnar foundation.

As already mentioned, in modern conditions this is the most demanded building material with the greatest ability to save heat, but there is another side of the coin: the lower the density of the material, the lower its bearing capacity. Concrete is known to be the most durable of modern materials and its bearing capacity is quite high. But the walls made of it are very cold, so the extension to the building requires mandatory insulation. It is because of this that they came up with the idea of foaming concrete. This is done using foaming agents (most often it is aluminum powder), then it is placed in molds and left to solidify, or naturally(aerated concrete blocks), or in autoclave ovens (aerated concrete blocks). Thus, aerated concrete blocks are produced only industrially, while foam concrete can actually be produced directly at construction sites.

Naturally, this factor cannot but affect the quality and price. Modern manufacturers claim that 30-40 cm thick in terms of heat preservation replaces a brick wall 1 m thick; it is also said that the high vapor permeability of this material does not require the construction of ventilation in the room. Only for fixing the blocks you need special fasteners, and in order to screw a self-tapping screw into the wall, anchor-type fasteners are required, otherwise nothing will work. Nails in such walls simply do not hold and fall out. Aerated concrete has one more remarkable quality: blocks can be sawed with a hacksaw for metal and planed with a plane, like wood. It is better to use special glue to mount the blocks from which the extension is made.

Deformation of building materials

I must say that the deformation of any building materials is inevitable.

In fairness, it should be noted that no masonry, even 2.5 bricks, is completely sealed. Therefore, it is advisable to close up and smear absolutely all cracks, seams and joints on both one and the other side of the wall. For ventilation gaps between the blocks and the facing brickwork, 20 mm will be sufficient. Ligation of blocks and facing masonry done with nylon fittings. It is indispensable for breaking work. In addition to brick, you can use other facade materials. Aerated concrete walls must be closed from the outside, since, having a high absorbency, they will be extremely fragile. And heat loss in the cold season will be much lower, this is especially true for the middle lane. As practice shows, it is best to plaster the wall on both sides. Then the built annex will be warmer.