Installation and finishing of the ceiling on the balcony made of plastic panels. How to sheathe the ceiling with plastic panels and why it is beneficial Installation of the ceiling on the balcony with plastic panels

What is the most popular material for finishing balconies? Perhaps many, without hesitation, will answer that these are plastic panels. And they will be right. Indeed, this material has so organically blended into this space that so far no other has been able to "knock" it out of there.

After all, a plastic ceiling is inexpensive and practical, but it looks neat and clean, which is so often lacking on our balconies. At the same time, no special skills are required for its installation. It is only important to observe the sequence of actions, which will be discussed further. And in addition, you can see photos and video materials.

Advantages of the material

Plastic is characterized by the following advantages:

Versatility. Such material can look great not only on the balcony, but also in many other rooms. After all, the market offers a wide range. Moreover, there are products with imitation of natural materials.
Leaving does not require special actions or funds. It is enough to periodically wipe the surface with a cloth, it can be damp.
Moisture resistance - undoubted advantage material in the key of use on the balcony.
Plastic panels perfectly hide communications and defects of the main coating. They make it possible to conveniently install lamps.

Product variants

Exists PVC materials wall or ceiling. The latter are lighter and more fragile. Therefore, in fact, working with the material requires special attention and accuracy.

Products can be of different lengths, widths and colors. As noted, panels are capable of simulating natural material... As a result, you can create an imitation of a wooden lining.

Panels are:

matte - the cheapest option;
glossy - varnished;
colored or with a picture.

In the latter case, one of the technologies is used:

direct printing;
thermal transfer is a simple and common method.

Definition of quality

We do an inspection. The geometry and outer skin must be of good quality. The surface is even, the pattern is evenly applied.
Stiffening ribs with outside... By the way, the more of these ribs, the stronger the panel will be.
Attention should also be paid to the thickness of the front panel and stiffeners.
Taking two panels, you should connect them. The result should be close to ideal. Gaps and other defects should be absent, and the joint should be unobtrusive.
Bending test. Any corner of the panel must be bent and unbent several times. If even five such actions were not enough to destroy the material, it is considered that the product will serve for a long period. Otherwise, the panel may burst during installation. This indicates the low quality of the products.

Material calculation

Before purchasing products, you should decide on their quantity. For this, the area of the ceiling is determined: multiply the length by the width. This figure should be divided by the area of one product. To the obtained data, you need to add another 10% - for the stock.

To install the frame around the perimeter, it is better to use the UD profile, the transverse - CD, it is lighter.

The result of the installation is the installation of the skirting board. It is calculated around the perimeter. This length must be divided by three (standard material length).

Mounting

First you need to equip yourself by putting on the funds individual protection: headgear, goggles, gloves, protective clothing and footwear. Next, we make the markup using the level. You need to get a horizontal plane. The distance from the main ceiling is up to 10 cm. The height of the luminaires should be taken into account.

Profiles must be secured tightly using dowels. CDs are attached to this profile. Then, using self-tapping screws, the L-shaped profile is fixed.

When the frame is installed, it is worth taking care of all communications, provide holes in the panels for mounting lamps.

You need to start the installation from the wall. You can cut the panel using a hacksaw for metal or plastic.

The first product is inserted into the profile, and then fixed with self-tapping screws along the length. The rest of the sheets are inserted into each other.

As a rule, difficulties with the installation of panels arise on the last sample. After all, the width will need to be adjusted to the remaining distance from the penultimate panel to the wall.

Common installation errors

Finally, here are some of the most common mistakes that, of course, should not be allowed during installation.

There must be ventilation between the ceiling and the panels, so they cannot be mounted with glue.
Not worth choosing cheap stuff which can then ruin the whole work. At the very least, it will not last long, fade quickly or be transparent.
Install the wiring before installing the panels. This should not be forgotten.
It is not recommended to use instead of profiles wooden blocks... Given the balcony conditions, nothing good will come of it. Destruction of the structure is very likely.

In almost all modern apartments there is a balcony or loggia, which are no longer a place where little-used things are stored. In most cases, the owners of such apartments make redevelopment and connect the loggia with the main room, equipping an additional area for a room. Renovation work in this case, they consist in the insulation of surfaces and their finishing. One of the areas that require special attention during renovation is the ceiling. You can finish this part of the balcony or loggia with your own hands, if you adhere to a certain technology and follow the advice of experienced craftsmen.

Ceiling finishing technology

A closed balcony or loggia refers to structural elements in which residence is not initially planned. Therefore, when repairing this part of the apartment, you should Special attention give to the ceiling. In particular, we are talking about its insulation, waterproofing and finishing. As for the last step, it is very important to choose practical material, which is characterized by easy maintenance during operation.

The main stages of finishing the ceiling of a balcony or loggia include the following:

Waterproofing the surface.
Thermal insulation works.
Ceiling cladding with appropriate material.

Each stage is performed according to a specific technology using specific materials.

Ceiling waterproofing process

Waterproofing of a ceiling made of PVC panels on a balcony or loggia is determined by the characteristics of this part of the apartment. For example, if there is a glazed balcony from the neighbors on top, you only need a sealant. In this case, the following actions are assumed:

All components of the structure are sealed. To do this, fill the existing gaps with sealant, as well as the joints between the wall and the slab from the side of your balcony.
Directly, the loggia ceiling slab is treated with a penetrating hydrophobic material, which increases the surface's resistance to moisture and becomes a barrier in its path.

In the case when the balcony of the neighbors from above is open and has just a visor, the work becomes much more complicated. Most often, in such a situation, permission from the management company is required to carry out the relevant work, and to perform the waterproofing of the balcony, they resort to the help of roofers who have special permits for high-altitude work.

Insulation of the ceiling of a balcony or loggia

Thermal insulation of the ceiling space of the loggia or balcony is required only if a similar room located above is not heated. This is explained by simple laws of physics, according to which heat always rises upward. Consequently, the ceiling is the area through which the bulk of the heat escapes.

In addition, a good thermal insulation material will become a barrier in the way of extraneous noise and sounds, which is also an important criterion.

For thermal insulation of the ceiling made of PVC panels on the loggia, it is recommended to use the following materials:

Expanded polystyrene plates.
Mineral wool mats.
Foamed polystyrene foam.

The insulation of the ceiling on the balcony made of PVC panels is carried out according to frame technology, moreover, the frame can be used to fix the finishing finishing material.

The insulation of the ceiling itself, before making the ceiling on the balcony from plastic panels, is carried out in a certain sequence:

First, the usual plastic wrap or another more quality material such as a waterproofing membrane. This layer should be located between the battens and the floor slab.
Next, the frame is assembled according to a certain technology and the selected insulation is placed in the formed cells. For fixing thermal insulation material lathing crossbars or threads can be used, which are tied to pre-hammered nails and pulled over the entire ceiling area.
The next layer should be a vapor barrier. Most often used for this special membrane, one side of which has a rough surface that removes moisture.

Sheathing of the ceiling on the balcony with plastic panels

The choice of material for finishing the ceiling of a loggia or balcony can be called a rather difficult task, since hardware stores offer a large assortment of similar products.

However, the main criteria for evaluating a ceiling made of plastic panels on a balcony should be practicality and aesthetically pleasing appearance. Therefore, for finishing the ceiling space of a balcony or loggia, the following options are very often used:

Plastic panels.
Wooden lining.
Suspended or rack structures.

Each type of finish requires the creation of a frame, the design of which is determined by the type of finishing material. Frameworks from wooden slats or a metal profile, which are used in the installation of structures from drywall sheets, also suitable for ceiling sheathing plastic panels or wooden clapboard.

Before finishing the ceiling with plastic panels, you need to make a frame. To assemble a frame from a metal profile for plastic ceiling on the balcony with your own hands, you must adhere to certain instructions:

First of all, the guides are fixed, they should be placed around the perimeter of the balcony. For correct installation these elements are marked using a building level. It is very important that the guide profiles are perfectly horizontal. The guides are fastened with dowel-nails.
The next step is to mark the ceiling, according to which the ceiling profiles will be located between the guide elements.
Along the marked lines, the suspensions are fastened, the distance between which should be no more than 0.9 meters.
Then, a ceiling profile is inserted into the guides and, using self-tapping screws, it is fixed on the suspensions.
Jumpers are mounted between the ceiling profiles, which are fixed by means of "crabs" - special connecting crosspieces.

The assembly of the frame from wooden slats is carried out using a similar technology, only dowel-nails can be used to fasten the elements. It should also be borne in mind that the thickness of the insulation is selected depending on the thickness of the slats. Immediately before assembly timber frame care should be taken to protect the elements. To prevent the decay process wooden products and to extend the life of the frame, it is necessary to perform treatment with special antiseptic agents.

After installing the frame system for the ceiling made of plastic panels on the loggia, you can proceed directly to the ceiling sheathing. The most common finishing materials used for this purpose are plastic panels. Installation of this material does not require special knowledge, and during operation it is enough to regularly wipe the panels with a damp cloth. Therefore, you should dwell in more detail on the installation of this particular finish.

What to do and in what order

Sheathing the ceiling on the balcony with plastic panels implies the following:

Skirting profiles are installed along the perimeter of the ceiling, fixing them with self-tapping screws to the ceiling profile. The skirting boards should be located only on three sides, in this case there will be no problems with the installation of the last plastic panel.
The next step in finishing the ceiling on the balcony with plastic panels will be to determine the dimensions of the panels along the length. To do this, measure the distance between opposite sides of the ceiling, lay it on the panel and cut it off in accordance with the marks made.
Next, take the first panel and insert it with its ends and a spike into the skirting boards. Fixation to the ceiling profile is performed with self-tapping screws from the side of the panel groove.
Then take next item and insert it with its end parts into the plinth, and the spike is guided into the groove of the first panel. Fixation is also performed from the side of the groove. Similar actions are performed with all panels until the ceiling is fully clad.
As for the last panel, here in most cases it is necessary to adjust the elements in width, since the remaining space does not always correspond to the dimensions of the panel. The plastic should be cut from the side of the groove, having previously made marks along the entire length of the panel.
The final steps of the process, how to sheathe the ceiling on the balcony with plastic panels, is the installation of the last plinth. First, measure this element along the length, then cut it off and stick it to the surface of the ceiling and walls.

The described instructions for finishing the ceiling of the loggia with plastic panels can be used when trimming the ceiling with wooden clapboard. Only in this case, skirting boards are not used, and the fastening is carried out according to the thorn-groove principle and using self-tapping screws.

Separately, you should consider the option of how to make a ceiling from panels on a balcony using suspended and rack structures. Installation in this case involves the following activities:

The edging is fixed along the perimeter of the balcony or loggia.
Guides are inserted into it and fixed in addition to the main ceiling using suspensions, which are preliminarily positioned at a distance of 0.5-0.6 meters from each other. The guides should be installed in increments corresponding to the width of the panels.
In suspended structures, the panels are simply laid on the rails. If installation is in progress slatted ceiling, then the main elements are installed at small intervals and snap into place on the rails. The space left between the slats can then be covered with decorative slats.
To install lighting devices on the ceiling, holes of the appropriate size are cut in the panels.

The technologies described above are not particularly difficult, therefore, all work on finishing with ceiling panels of a balcony or loggia can be done independently, without resorting to the help of professional craftsmen. The main condition is to follow the sequence of actions and do not forget about waterproofing and thermal insulation of the room. Only in this case, as a result, you can get a room with comfortable conditions living, using it as a recreation area, personal account or other purposes.

The presence of a balcony for a zealous and skillful apartment owner is always a significant advantage, since with a competent approach, it is possible to transform this extension into a completely useful, and sometimes even almost full-fledged additional room. Of course, all this requires certain construction, insulation and

For any room, the ceiling is a kind of "face", on which the overall impression of the created interior is largely formed. The balcony in this case is no exception. Even if the ceiling, as a rule, is small in area, it requires close attention, especially since in this room very often must be taken into account and specific features his devices.

So, let's try to figure it out - what to make of the ceiling on the balcony to make it look neat and beautiful, and at the same time, if necessary, contribute to maintaining the planned comfortable microclimate in the room.

Basic requirements for the construction of a balcony ceiling

The ceiling on an ordinary balcony is no different large area, and the complex of works on its arrangement and decoration, as a rule, will not be overly time-consuming. Nevertheless, it must fully meet certain requirements.

If we mean not the finish itself, but the ceiling overlap, then reliable waterproofing always comes to the fore - leaks from above and the capillary spread of moisture through reinforced concrete slab... Any finish, no matter how beautiful it is, will be a waste of money if this condition is not met.

If the balcony is planned to be used as a usable area throughout the year, then the ceiling must receive effective thermal insulation. Warm air always rises up, so if the balcony slab remains cold, it will lead to completely unjustified heat loss (in any building, the most "massive" leak of thermal energy is observed precisely through floors that do not have thermal insulation). It is completely pointless to organize any heating system on such a balcony - money for energy resources will be wasted.

At the same time, there is no point in spending money on the creation of an insulating layer in the event that there will be none. But the requirements for waterproofing are mandatory for any option.

If the two above conditions are met, then the third requirement remains - this is the decorative finish of the balcony ceiling, which should be in full harmony with the overall interior of this room being created.

Here, of course, everything is at the discretion of the owners. There is a mass different options- from "Spartan" coloring to the creation of complex suspended structures... About all this - a little lower, in order.

The balcony room is not so large that it was possible to somehow clearly separate the stages for the preparation, insulation and finishing of all its surfaces - the ceiling, walls and floor. Therefore all ceiling work, as a rule, are carried out in parallel with other operations, since they are often very closely intertwined with each other.

Balcony ceiling waterproofing

We can assume that the owner of the apartment is very lucky if exactly the same balcony is located on top, but also well-groomed. In this case, the task of waterproofing, although not completely removed, is nevertheless extremely simplified.

The situation is somewhat more complicated if the balcony on top is open to atmospheric precipitation. Here, a lot will depend on the economy and conscientiousness of the owner of the upper apartment. Open balcony may well be high-quality waterproofed, have a drain for the water falling on it, and in this case the work will also not be very difficult, although, of course, it is advisable to do for greater insurance full complex waterproofing or at least control the quality of its early execution. Of course, this requires good contact with the upstairs neighbor - after all, this is also very important for him, and splitting the costs for two - would be a perfectly reasonable solution.

But it also happens that his owner absolutely "does not care" on the upper balcony, and he not only does not want to spend money on any waterproofing works, but also does not intend to admit anyone to its territory. Well, it remains only to wish restraint, tact - perhaps it will still be possible to convince the obstinate. If not, then it is necessary to try to influence in an official way, through management company or other organizations, since, by and large, a leaking balcony slab is also a matter of living safety.

And this statement is not an exaggeration at all. Let's take a look at how moisture affects an unprotected balcony ceiling.

If the slab does not have external waterproofing, then moisture necessarily penetrates into small pores and cracks that are on any concrete surface... At first this may be completely imperceptible, but over time, such penetration begins to cause erosion processes, which are especially intensified with negative temperatures when the frozen water begins to expand these cavities, resulting in the formation of cracks, cavities, areas of concrete crumbling over time (pos. 1).

Concrete itself is a porous structure, and moisture, penetrating through the thickness of the slab, makes its way downward, forming leakage paths, which after some time turn into visible cracks on the lower surface (pos. 2).

Angles of abutment of the slab to the vertical main wall of the building are extremely vulnerable. If waterproofing is not provided here or has already served its purpose, then these places become an area of constant dampness, and moisture capillary spreads deep into the walls, often manifesting itself in indoor areas apartments (item 3).

A certain danger also lies at the end of the slabs, where constant fluctuations in humidity and temperature plus the capillary spread of moisture also lead to erosive processes, accompanied by gradual painting and crumbling of concrete (pos. 4).

Erosion of concrete is accompanied by corrosion of the reinforcement structure, and the slab slowly but surely loses its bearing capacity, becoming unreliable and becoming a source of danger for people living in the house.

As a result, one has to think not about improving the balcony, but about carrying out an extremely expensive and complicated one. overhaul, with the obligatory involvement of specialists.

Overhaul of the balcony - it is better not to bring it up to this!

Nevertheless, sometimes the situation is such that there is simply no other way out. What needs to be done to organize a capital - read in a special publication of our portal.

So, what does it mean to really perform high-quality waterproofing open balcony slab... There are many compositions for sale for such operations, foreign and domestic production... You can recommend the products of the St. Petersburg company "Lakhta", whose product range allows you to perform all the necessary actions.

First of all, the surface of the plate on both sides must be cleaned - all weak areas, areas of crumbling, oil stains are removed. Slots, caverns must be cut in depth and in breadth not less than 5 mm. The surfaces are thoroughly dedusted.

The cut defects (pos. 1) tightly, without leaving even the slightest voids, are filled with a special basic repair compound diluted according to the instructions attached to it. (The numbering in the repair scheme and in the illustration with the waterproofing compounds intentionally coincides).

Along the entire line of abutment of the slab to the vertical wall, from above and below, the so-called repair key made of elastic waterproofing (pos. 2) is made. Such a composition can be one-component, ready-to-use, or two-component, requiring dilution according to the instructions immediately before use. This "lock" must be at least 100 mm vertically and horizontally on the wall and on the slab.

After the repair "patches" and the waterproofing dowel have hardened, the entire surface of the slab is densely covered with a thin-layer repair compound used to restore reinforced concrete surfaces (item 3). At the same time, one should never lose sight of the end outer part of the slab, since it, no less than other areas, needs high-quality protection from moisture.

It is advisable to perform the waterproofing coating not only on the surface of the slab, but also to approach the walls, by 200 ÷ 230 mm, so that a general waterproofed surface is obtained. After drying, it will be ready for any further finishing.

waterproofing the ceiling

If there is a glazed and insulated balcony on top, then it would seem that there is nowhere to get moisture, and you can do nothing. However, it would be reasonable to insure yourself and treat the ceiling surface with special impregnating waterproofing compounds (Penetron, HydroHit, Skrepa and the like can be recommended). They are applied to a damp concrete or even plaster surface. Penetrating into pores and microcracks, such compounds crystallize, completely filling all even the most microscopic paths of possible moisture penetration, providing high-quality waterproofing. At the same time, one should not forget about the end part of the balcony pit - it is often left untreated, which can significantly reduce the overall effect of the work done.

A special case is when the apartment is located on the top floor, and there is simply a reinforced concrete canopy on top of the balcony. With this option, it is best not to be limited to surface repairs and applying a coating composition, but to perform waterproofing from roll materials- high-quality roofing material or special. Such events involve work at height, so it is better not to undertake them on your own - to entrust the matter to specialists.

Such waterproofing of the visor from above does not relieve the owner of the balcony from the need to treat the slab with coating penetrating insulation from below.

It often happens that the balcony on the top floor does not have any roof at all. There is nothing to do - if there is a desire to get a full-fledged glazed and insulated room, then you will have to mount the visor, cover it with roofing material (most often corrugated board is used for this), with the placement of an under-roof membrane waterproofing.

Naturally, with this approach, special attention should be paid to the abutment of the roof to the vertical wall. And the frame structure itself can serve not only for filing of the selected type decorative ceiling, but also for placing a thermal insulation layer in it.

Only after guaranteed high-quality waterproofing ceiling slab balcony, you can go to further work... And the next step is ceiling insulation.

Insulation of the ceiling on the balcony

It will be impossible to create and maintain a normal microclimate on the glazed balcony if you do not carry out high-quality insulation of all its surfaces. The ceiling is no exception in this regard.

You should not place any hope that the owner of the neighboring upper balcony will perform effective thermal insulation of his floor - this will not help you in any way. Rather, he fenced off his domain from the cold balcony slab, which remains open on three end sides. If the insulation performed by him raised the overlap temperature by at least a couple of degrees - for the lower balcony this is a very weak consolation, and will not seriously affect the general atmosphere in this room. Warming is necessary!

Thermal insulation of the flow is carried out in conjunction with a similar operation on all other surfaces of the balcony, otherwise it simply does not make sense. What materials can be used for this:

Heaters of the polystyrene group. This includes the familiar white foam and a more modern and reliable modification - extruded polystyrene foam. Both of these materials have approximately equal thermal insulation characteristics, however, they differ quite seriously in their performance characteristics.

An excellent insulation for the ceiling (and for all other surfaces) on the balcony will be sprayed polyurethane foam. Possessing excellent adhesion to almost any surface, it creates a seamless, completely vapor and waterproof coating, but its thermal insulation properties significantly exceed those of all other materials mentioned above.

The disadvantages of this material can be attributed only to the technological difficulties of its application - special equipment, necessary component compositions and, of course, experience in performing such work are required. This also predetermines the rather high price of such balcony insulation.

Polyurethane foam - advantages and disadvantages

The scope of application of sprayed insulation is constantly expanding. - read in a separate article on our portal.

Another insulation is a little apart - it is a roll of foamed polyethylene with a foil coating (the most common brand is penofol).

This material is produced in a fairly wide range of thicknesses, from 3 to 20 mm, but usually, when insulating balconies, canvases with a thickness of 4 ÷ 5 mm are used. Foamed polyethylene itself has approximately the same thermal conductivity as expanded polystyrene. However, the foil layer facing the room is capable of effectively reflecting thermal radiation, preventing it from being absorbed by massive building structures, and the overall effectiveness of the thermal insulation system increases dramatically. This is especially important in a balcony, since the size of the room often does not allow placing full-fledged thick layers of insulation.

basalt wool

Usually penofol is used as a second, inner layer of thermal insulation, using it in combination with other heaters. But its function is not limited to this. The foil layer is an excellent vapor barrier, and if you create a continuous coating, seal the joints, then water vapor will go into the thickness insulation material will be securely closed. This is especially important when using mineral wool as the main thermal insulation.

Now it makes sense to talk about optimal thickness insulation. If the balcony is planned to be operated as a full-fledged room, that is, this or that heating system will be created on it, then the thermal resistance indicators of the enclosing structures and ceilings must correspond to the normalized values established for the given region, taking into account its climatic features. From here, knowing table values thermal conductivity coefficients various materials and the thickness of the layers in the ceiling (wall) structure, it is easy to determine the required thickness of the insulation layer.

The normalized value of the resistance to heat transfer can be found using the provided schematic map.

Please note that if the calculation will be carried out for a flow, then the "blue" value is selected - for overlaps. For walls, accordingly, the "purple" value is taken.

We will not give a formula with its description - it is better to immediately suggest using a convenient calculator that will help you calculate the optimal insulation for a balcony.

A wide selection of the most modern finishing materials enables each consumer to purchase the best option for themselves in all respects. This should be done consciously, clearly representing the strengths and weaknesses of each of them. In this article we will talk only about one material - plastic PVC panels for balconies.

In areas with unfavorable climates, the importance of cladding balconies with simultaneous insulation increases significantly, and the requirements for the quality of panels also increase. Depending on the wishes and architectural features buildings can be upholstered balconies only from the outside, only from the inside or on both sides. In this case, glazing is preliminarily installed on the balconies. A balcony converted in this way can easily join the living quarters, thereby increasing the usable area of the kitchen, hall or bedroom, depending on which room it adjoins.

Internal cladding. Everything construction works conducted with inside, the outer surfaces remain intact. Not a very popular method, the appearance of such a design is poor. It is used only in cases where insulation is not done.
External cladding... This method can be found more often, but among young developers this option is not considered acceptable. It is also used only when arranging a cold balcony. If with outside the balcony is ennobled, then from the inside its appearance does not satisfy anyone.
Complex cladding. Materials are fixed both from the outside and from the inside of the structure. The most popular method at the present time, allows you to create warm rooms, significantly improves the microclimate on the balcony. It is possible to make a warm floor on it, install furniture, eliminate the wall between it and the adjacent living space.

Plastic panels for the balcony are produced by numerous companies; there is still no single general standard. Everyone is guided by their own technical conditions, v best degree corresponding to the capabilities of the existing equipment. Most often, it is 2.7 meters long, 10 mm thick, but these dimensions can vary in wide parameters. The color, texture of the face layer, the type of lock, etc. are mostly not regulated.

First of all, you need to pay attention to the maximum and minimum operating temperature, resistance to harsh ultraviolet radiation, the thickness and type of the lock. it physical characteristics materials. When it comes to design metrics, there is no one-size-fits-all recommendation. Professionals advise taking into account the interior of the premises and the appearance of the facade of the building. Select material in such a way that it organically fits into existing design solutions. In terms of color solutions, the product range includes more than 180 types.

What to look for when choosing?

Advantages and disadvantages of PVC panels

If the manufacturer is conscientious, the material of manufacture is of high quality, the equipment is modern, and the manufacturing technology is not violated, then PVC panels have much more advantages than disadvantages.

Manufacturability of use. The panels are easy to install, the technology is almost no different from the installation of plastic lining.

The material is easy to cut, fixed in several ways, from liquid nails to staples or special plastic clamps. The last method allows you to dismantle installed panels without losing the original quality.

It is also allowed to dismantle the plates with brackets, but there will be traces in the places of the first fixation. Although they do not affect recyclability, the original quality in the strict sense is lost. During the work, with the correct organization of the process, construction waste is almost not formed.

Installation of panels is not dusty and not the most tedious work
Durability of operation, good indicators of physical strength. The material is not afraid of long-term direct impact moisture, if there are special innovative additives, then ultraviolet rays do not destroy the intermolecular bonds of plastic. Due to this, plasticity is maintained for a long time, the risks of cracking under the influence of dynamic and static loads are minimized.
Ease of maintenance. The surfaces of the PVC panels are cleaned with ordinary detergents, the use of expensive formulations is not required. Under normal operating conditions, it is sufficient to wipe the surfaces with a damp cloth once every six months.
Environmental friendliness... Depending on the material of manufacture, the panels can be used for internal and external cladding.
Quite good thermal insulation performance. Internal air chambers prevent heat transfer. Sheathing PVC panels additionally improves heat saving indicators.
Low cost... Quite a significant advantage that encourages many consumers to make the final choice.

Weaknesses: insufficient physical strength, flammability, in terms of safety indicators, it is difficult to refer to completely environmentally friendly materials.

Balcony cladding technology with PVC panels

The dimensions, material of manufacture and appearance of the texture should be selected depending on the place of use, interior design and financial capabilities. After a decision has been made on the types of panels and the finishing method, you can proceed to the immediate implementation of the work.

Step 1... Checking the condition of the parapet and the supporting reinforced concrete slab.

Most of the old balconies have metal parapets, which have been bearing indicators over the years. metal structures have lost their original characteristics. They need to be removed completely or overhauled. The best option is to put a fence made of foam blocks instead of a metal parapet.

But the decision must be made on the spot by a professional craftsman after evaluating many factors and taking into account the wishes of the owners. We recommend, if possible, to install foam blocks, they have low thermal conductivity, but the strength is sufficient to withstand the installation of glazing. In addition, it is very easy to attach PVC finishing panels to them.

Step 2. Counting the quantity necessary material, measurement of surfaces, the choice of the method of fixing panels.

What methods of fixing panels can be?

Depending on the chosen fixing method, purchase materials and additional elements... As an example, a lightweight version of finishing the balcony with PVC panels will be considered - along the parapet.

Step 3. Preparation metal frame... For this, metal strips are welded to the parapet at certain distances, the length of the strips is about 10 cm, the width is 2-3 cm, the thickness is ≈ 2-3 mm. The strips are installed on both sides of the parapet, while taking into account the thickness of the insulation. For most cases, a thickness of 10 cm is sufficient, this will have a positive effect on heat saving and not reduce the useful area of the balcony.

Step 4. Holes Ø 5–6 mm must be drilled in the metal strips to fix the rails. The slats are bolted, the nut must be tightened until the bolt head is completely buried in the wood. If you wish, you can drill a hole with a large diameter under the head, the depth of the hole is equal to the thickness of the head.

Important. The slats must first be installed on the outside of the parapet, then with a stapler attach a plastic film for waterproofing, install a heater and only after that install the slats from the inside.

As a heater, it is better to take foam plates of the appropriate thickness. They have high rates of heat saving, the most affordable at cost. And the amount released into the air chemical compounds does not matter much for balconies.

Step 5. Cut PVC panels to size, prepare end and corner strips. These additional elements must be purchased at the same time as the panels. Keep in mind that during cutting, the dimensions should only go minus (no more than 0.5 cm), but not plus.

If there is a desire or this is required by the technology of mounting large PVC panels, then instead of strips, moisture-resistant plywood or OSB boards should be fixed to the metal strips. In the future, the finishing plating is fastened using liquid glue.

Step 6... Work should start from one of the corners of the balcony and then move in a circle. Fix the first panel very carefully, carefully check its position using a level. If the experience is not enough, then it is recommended to check the correctness of the spatial position of the plates after two or three rows.

PVC panels - trim strips (moldings)

Practical advice. If it was found that the stove is not standing in an upright position, then the error should be corrected gradually. Move each next plate by no more than one millimeter, otherwise the marriage will become noticeable. The casing is fixed with a stapler, the length of the staples is no more than 6 mm.

Carefully finish the installation sites of windows and doors, remember that the ends of the sheathing must necessarily have an emphasis, and not hang freely in the air.

Step 7. Sew the outer surfaces of the parapet in the same way. Pay attention to the tightness of the individual panels in the locks, do not allow gaps. For cladding external surfaces, only UV-resistant materials should be purchased. If you do not adhere to this rule, then after 2-3 years outer cladding will lose plasticity and will crack at the slightest load.

Step 8. The ceiling is finished according to the same algorithm; if you wish, you can make insulation.

Installation of panels on the ceiling - photo

The panel is fastened with a self-tapping screw with a press washer

If you plan to use the balcony as part of the room, then it is advisable to install additional lamps... The wiring must be pre-routed to the ceiling or wall under the cladding. It is recommended to use modern economical lamps. Practitioners advise installing at least one outlet on the balcony. If it is not currently needed, then no one can guarantee that it will not be needed in the future. It is best to use the services of a professional electrician for wiring. The cables will have to be connected to junction boxes, and it is very difficult for an amateur to find them.

Video - Types of plastic panels

A practical and economical finish with plastic panels is optimal solution for glazed balconies and loggias. How to sheathe the ceiling with plastic panels? It's very simple, but you still need to know certain nuances of work.

Features of ceiling plastic panels

There are plastic panels designed to work specifically with the ceiling. They are lighter and thinner than the wall ones, and therefore work with them must be done carefully. Features of the material are due to the area of its use - ceiling panels are operated with less load and do not have increased strength requirements.

Important: Ceiling decoration with plastic panels can be arranged only in those rooms where temperature differences do not exceed 20 ° C.

The modern market offers 3 options for plastic ceiling panels, differing in design and construction:

Read more about it in our review. The article in question about the features and characteristics of this finishing material.

Finishing the balcony ceiling with PVC plastic panels is possible with its preliminary insulation. Pay attention to such insulation as polystyrene foam. Everything on this page.

The main advantages of plastic finishing

First of all, plastic panels moisture resistant- they do not deform when high humidity, and also do not form stains and streaks on the surface when wet. Other advantages are also noted:

Plastic is easy to clean and durable. Periodic wet cleaning will be sufficient for cleaning.
The resulting ceiling will be perfectly flat and decorative - without additional priming and staining.
Easy installation and the possibility of local repair.
The panels are installed on a frame, due to which there is a air gap- it will play the role of heat and sound insulation.
Affordable cost.

Important: If you want to insulate the balcony with high quality, use special mineral wool mats or foam, mounting them in the assembled frame.

There are also drawbacks to plastic panels, but how significant they are, everyone must decide individually. Firstly, this material is of artificial origin, on polymer base... So fans of "everything natural" can see defects in this. However, plastic is completely safe to use. Secondly, the fastening of the panels implies joints. Thirdly, brightly colored plastic can fade over time - especially if the balcony faces south.

Life time false ceiling from plastic panels - about 10 years. Experts recommend using plastic of light shades, since they will not be noticeable fading of paints under the influence of ultraviolet radiation. But plastic panels are much more diverse and in the choice of design, give preference to the option that is more suitable for the style of the room - it can be imitation of wood, options with floral prints, and so on. The type of lamps is also chosen based on the general concept - built-in ones are considered more practical, although for them the ceiling must be lowered. So the dimensions of the room directly affect the type of construction - you should think over all the nuances before purchasing the material. It is better if you have a drawing according to which all calculations will be carried out.

Preparatory work and selection of tools

Before starting work on lining the ceiling with plastic panels, the surface of the ceiling must be leveled and then measured. Plastic is purchased with a 10% margin. Insulation panels are also purchased if necessary. During the installation process, you will also need:

Ceiling plinth for plastic panels

mounting plastic strip (corner 90 °) in an amount equal to the perimeter of the ceiling;
ceiling plastic plinth (in the same quantity);
corners and joints for joining the skirting board around the perimeter;
self-tapping screws with a press washer for fastening plastic.

Purchase plastic panels only from trusted manufacturers. High-quality plastic will not dry out and crumble. In addition, dense panels will not show through.

If it is wet on your balcony or loggia, then it is better to make a metal frame with a guide and ceiling profile(as for drywall). The profile is fixed to the ceiling with straight hangers. If the balcony is high-quality insulated and dry, then for the lathing for plastic panels, you can use a wooden bar, attached to the ceiling with self-tapping screws and dowels in increments of 1 meter.

Required tools include:

level (water, laser);
upholstery painting thread;
hammer drill or hammer drill;
screwdriver;
hacksaw for metal or wood;
clerical or construction knife;
building corner;
pencil,
yardstick;
hammer.

Ceiling sheathing - how to carry out quality work

Before the construction of the frame, the surface of the ceiling should be carefully primed to avoid shedding concrete and plaster onto the plastic surface.

Important! Work is not carried out if the temperature in the room is below 10 ° C. Also, before installation, plastic is taken out onto the balcony - 48 hours in advance, for acclimatization.

So, how to sheathe the ceiling on the balcony with plastic panels? First, a box is mounted for the ceiling made of wooden beams or metal profiles. For this, the horizontal of the future surface is determined, all corners in the room are measured and the lowest is selected from them. They measure 4-5 cm down from it, which will allow in the future to place a built-in lamp in the frame (for the most part, their base height is 4 cm).

A horizontal line is marked with a level, and then holes are drilled in the profile along the marked strip for fastening the dowels.

UD and CD profiles for metal ceiling frames

After that, dowels are inserted and the UD-profile is fastened along the level (along the entire perimeter of the room). Then the suspensions for the SD-profile are fixed (step 50-60 cm). The plane is checked by the tension of the line between the walls, after which the installation of the box is considered complete.

If a wooden beam is used to mount plastic panels on the ceiling, then it will need to be leveled horizontally, placing bosses of the required thickness under it.

Plastic panels are installed on the prepared frame. The panels are pre-cut according to the length of the ceiling. If the room has the wrong geometry, then the cutting is not performed beforehand - each next panel is marked and cut in fact. The actual fastening of the panels to the profile is carried out with special self-tapping screws - "bugs".

Installation of plastic panels on a pre-prepared wooden frame

Important points in the installation of luminaires

The ceiling made of plastic panels is ideal for creating recessed lighting. To place the lighting fixtures in the panel, you must first apply the material to the ceiling, and then mark the location of the future fixture on it. A hole is cut out at the marking site, corresponding to the fitting diameter of the luminaire.

In the case of using built-in luminaires, the ceiling level can be lowered by 10-12 cm, and for overhead fixtures, it will be enough to lower the level by the thickness of the profile (bar).

At the fixing point of the luminaire, two additional beams(profile) to strengthen the lathing. Electrical wire necessarily fit into a corrugated plastic sleeve, and is isolated at the ends. Installation of the same lighting fixtures carried out when all work on the ceiling sheathing is completed.

When all the plastic panels are installed on the ceiling, drilled along its entire perimeter ceiling plinth... This allows you to hide uneven material edges resulting from sawing panels. Once the skirting board is installed, you can enjoy quality work.

Ceiling made of plastic panels photo

We invite you to see photos on the topic of our article about covering the balcony ceiling with plastic panels. All photos are clickable.

Ceiling made of plastic panels video

In this section, we bring to your attention a video that is an addition to the instructions described above for installing a suspended ceiling made of plastic panels on a balcony and loggia. You will be able to observe the entire installation process.