Do-it-yourself cellar equipment in the garage. We build a cellar in the garage with our own hands correctly and reliably

The main requirement that must be met in the basement of the garage is the absence of moisture. What kind of basement finish in the garage will help get rid of dampness and fungus, eliminate mustiness in the room?

It is important to think over all the details of the construction of the cellar under the garage even at the stage of laying the foundation. In this case, it is necessary to immediately prevent the humidity in the basement by performing simple construction work that is easy to do with your own hands.

The foundation of the garage must be properly insulated from moisture from the outside and from the inside. The main problem is the seasonal rise of groundwater and moisture in the basement due to spring and autumn floods.

The picture, when the cellar and the pit in the garage are flooded with water, every spring and autumn, is not uncommon.

The second important requirement is high-quality ventilation of the cellar. Without access fresh air products mold quickly. But this is not one drawback. High humidity causes rapid corrosion of metal, so it is simply dangerous to store a car in a garage with a damp basement.

Ventilation can be as natural - the air flow is ensured correctly installed system pipes or forced - installation of a fan, if it is not possible to remove the pipes during the repair or re-equipment of the garage.

The third requirement is that the walls and ceiling of the cellar or basement in the garage must be insulated. This will provide a positive temperature in cold weather and exclude the appearance of condensation on the walls in summer.

Designing a basement in a garage

At the first stage of laying the foundation for a garage with a cellar, it is imperative to find out three facts:

at what level are groundwater at the construction site;
determine the depth of soil freezing;
the structure, depth and waterproofing of the foundation depend on the type of soil on the site.

If the garage has already been built and there is a desire to dig a cellar, then you need to pay attention to the following parameters:

foundation design - a shallowly recessed strip foundation will not withstand bearing loads; if you remove a large layer of soil inside the building, it is necessary to deepen and strengthen the foundation;
with a high location of groundwater, it is necessary to carry out a drainage system;
on clay and weak peat soils, it is important to pay attention to serious external waterproofing of the basement.

An important rule for the foundation of a garage with a cellar is that the lowest point of the foundation should be located at least 50 centimeters below the freezing point of the soil. In frost, the soil freezes and pushes out the weak foundation, which leads to rapid deformation and destruction of the entire building.

Basement device in a finished garage

When digging a pit in an already built garage, especially if the cellar floor is much lower than the bottom of the garage foundation, it is important to keep the distance to the walls correctly:

to the garage wall, the basement wall is located at a distance equal to the depth of the basement below the basement base.

For example, the cellar floor is 1 meter below the garage foundation. This means that you need to step back a meter from the foundation when digging a pit.

The sequence of construction work when installing a basement

According to the dimensions of the preliminary drawing, you need to dig a pit and carefully tamp the soil. The dimensions of a standard cellar for a garage are 2.5 m (width) by 2 meters (depth).

Important. Basement walls should not be located more than half a meter from the garage wall. This is necessary for high-quality waterproofing.

Foundation device

After the pit has been dug, and the floor is carefully rammed, we proceed to the construction of the buried foundation:

a layer of crushed stone of the middle fraction is poured over the ground, minimum thickness 3 cm;
a rough concrete screed is poured over gravel or gravel, the thickness is from 7 to 10 cm, depending on the strength of the soil at the site;
after the concrete screed has solidified, a layer of roofing material is mounted as waterproofing. It is necessary to lay the material in two layers, gluing the sheets together with liquid resin. In addition to roofing material, you can use waterproofing under concrete floors or bituminous mastic, it is more expensive, but guarantees quality and reduces construction time;
a layer of roofing material must be installed on the walls of the pit, the height of the overlap on the wall is at least 15 cm.

Important. It is imperative to install a drainage system around the perimeter to drain ground and seasonal waters.

A reinforced concrete screed made of cement with water-repellent additives ("Dehydrol Lux" 10-2) is installed along the waterproofing layer or poured with ready-made concrete - grade W20. The thickness of the concrete screed of the cellar floor is at least 20 cm.

If you plan to arrange a cellar with a clay floor, then you need to pour clay in several layers and carefully tamp each one. The first layer of clay - 15 - 25 cm thick, the second layer - up to 1 m, is compacted with moistening on sheets of roofing material.

Basement wall construction

A prerequisite is that the walls of the basement or cellar in the garage must be made only from reinforced concrete or red brick. Silicate bricks and foam blocks do not withstand high humidity even with high-quality waterproofing.

It is easier to lay out the walls in the cellar of the garage with concrete blocks - this will shorten the construction time, but it requires the cost of renting special equipment. If the basement is being built in finished garage, then it is necessary to concrete the walls of the cellar or perform brickwork.

Basement walls concreting, cement grade not lower than M400:

we expose the wooden formwork. Be sure to install spacers to prevent soil shedding;
we attach a strong reinforcing mesh. Rigid reinforcement of the walls cannot be done, the mesh from the reinforcement only needs to be knitted with wire. This will prevent the screed from breaking during seasonal heaving of the soil;
we concreting the walls in layers. The height of the first layer of concrete is 40 cm;
the height of each subsequent layer is no more than 30 cm.

Concrete hardening should occur naturally - the average full hardening time is 28 - 30 days, depending on weather conditions.

Important. When concreting the walls of the basement, be sure to tap each poured layer with a rubber hammer to avoid voids and cavities in the walls.

The brickwork of the basement walls in the garage is performed in one row with an offset of half a brick. Be sure to check the vertical with a level or plumb line every two rows of masonry. Cleaning of seams must be done.

Cellar ceiling - floor slab

The garage floor will be the basement ceiling, so the main attention should be paid to the thermal and waterproofing of the floor slab:

the floor slab on both sides must be waterproofed with bitumen or bituminous mastic in two layers;
from below (basement ceiling) they are made with polystyrene - this is the most a budget option... But remember that mice and rats can ruin the finish. Therefore, the thickness of the foam for insulation of the ceiling should be no more than 5 cm;
be sure to plaster the layer of insulation on the mesh. This will protect the insulation from dampness and rodents.

You can also insulate the floor slab from above along the concrete floor screed:

a layer of waterproofing (roofing material, bituminous mastic) is laid on the slab;
a layer of insulation (polystyrene, expanded clay) is mounted on beacons, the thickness of the insulation layer is 10 - 15 cm;
after that, a reinforced concrete screed is poured.

The hatch to enter the basement must also be insulated with foam or mineral wool so as not to create cold bridges in the cellar and not to provoke the appearance of dampness in the basement.

Protective finishing of the garage basement in different ways

The main characteristics of the decoration of the walls, floor and ceiling of the cellar are resistance to the destructive action of moisture. What options for disinfecting and protecting surfaces can be used, and what materials for finishing the basement in the garage are the most popular.

Basement moisture protection - materials

Brick or concrete walls of the cellar must be in front of finishing additionally protect against moisture that comes from the soil into the concrete body:

for walls, fused fiberglass is suitable, but it is cheaper to process concrete surfaces composition "Tiprom K Lux". The consumption of such a moisture-proof impregnation for concrete is from 150 to 300 g per square meter. Can be primed on damp surfaces. A 5 liter bottle costs up to 1,500 rubles - enough for processing the walls and ceiling of the basement;
for waterproofing the floor of the cellar in the garage, roofing material can be used, but melted glass insulation (rolled) is more reliable and durable;
you can process the walls of the cellar and the ceiling with bituminous mastic.

Without good waterproofing, even good waterproof paint and plaster in a damp basement will not last long.

The procedure for waterproofing the cellar in the garage

For work, you need a sprayer for impregnation and blowtorch... Waterproofing procedure:

on clean concrete or brick walls we apply waterproof impregnation, you can also apply with a brush, but the material consumption will be greater than when working with a spray gun. Waterproofing brick and concrete walls a cellar is needed;
when the impregnation is dry, we mount the glass insulation on the concrete floor screed in the basement;
cut the material into strips of the required size, overlap the walls - at least 25 cm;
gradually unwinding the roll, and heating the material with a burner, we lay the insulation;
try not to overheat the coating, it will just melt.

After the insulation has solidified, for reliability on the floor, it is necessary to complete the finishing cement screed to protect the insulation layer (up to 5 cm thick). Instead of glass insulation, you can use bituminous mastic or several layers of roofing material.

Plastering the walls of the cellar

Brick walls do not need to be plastered; it is enough to treat them with water-repellent impregnation. Plastering basement mills - carrying out works:

we cut the reinforcing thin mesh into pieces and fasten it to the wall with dowels. It is important that the mesh fits snugly against the wall surface;
any cement mixture with water-repellent characteristics (Ceresit, Sm-11, Osovit Startwell) is suitable for plastering walls;
stir thoroughly plaster mix with water according to the instructions and plaster the walls on a metal mesh.

Before finishing painting, you need to wait until the walls are completely dry - this will take about two days.

Whitewashing or painting the basement walls in the garage

The easiest method for protecting and disinfecting walls and ceilings is mortar... It is enough to dilute the slaked lime with water and apply on the walls in two layers, after waiting for the first layer to dry, apply the second layer.

Lime mortar is applied to the brick and cement walls in the cellars every year. As the antiseptic properties of lime are reduced after 12 months.

Acrylic and silicate paints with antiseptic additives are more durable than lime, but they are also more expensive. It should also be taken into account that before applying acrylic paints on concrete walls, the surface must be primed to better adhesion materials.

Acrylic based paints or liquid glass, covering the walls with lime, high-quality waterproofing and any other decoration of the walls of the basement in the garage will not guarantee dryness, if not equipped high-quality ventilation cellars.

Natural and forced ventilation

The system natural ventilation easy to do with your own hands from metal-plastic pipes... The main thing is not to forget about the arrangement of a garage basement with ventilation even at the construction stage. Correct arrangement cellars are impossible without a ventilation system.

Natural ventilation

The main disadvantage of natural ventilation of the cellar is considered to be an uneven air supply. In winter, the pipes are covered with frost and clogged with snow, while in summer the temperature outside is higher than in the cellar and the flow of fresh air into the basement is limited.

These problems can be avoided by placing a small household fan, which can be turned on as needed, so as not to waste money on electricity.

It is not difficult to do natural ventilation with your own hands in the cellar:

we mount an exhaust pipe under the ceiling, it is necessary that the height of the pipe above the roof is at least 35 cm. The higher chimney, the stronger the flow of air circulation in the room;
the supply pipe is located 10 cm above the floor level in the garage and is led out. A good flow is ensured by an inlet height of 30 cm from the ground.

Dampers should be installed in the pipe to be able to regulate the air flow and protective grilles from mice, leaves and debris.

Forced ventilation of the garage basement

The garage and cellar will always be dry and comfortable if you install a forced ventilation system. The easiest option is to install a conventional low-power fan on the supply pipe of the air duct.

If the garage is frequently repaired and painting works, then the fan must be installed on the hood as well.

Pipes for the ventilation system are suitable for ordinary plastic for water supply or corrugated metal. They are inexpensive, but corrugated pipe easily mounted in any garage and cellar design.

If you spend money and take time to properly finish the cellar under the garage, then the room will always be dry, warm and comfortable. Wet cellars and basements cause enormous damage to the car. Corrosion of the metal of a car with a wet cellar in the garage is provided.

Probably every more or less economic owner of a garage has thought more than once about making a cellar in it for storing vegetables and preserving. The idea is really not bad, you must agree - however, many do not implement it. For various reasons, of course, but more often than not, simply simply because they do not imagine how to do it correctly and what materials will be needed for such a case.

In this article we will try to understand these issues in detail. Consider two situations - how to build a garage with your own hands with a basement and how to make a cellar in an existing room.

But first, let's deal with some of the nuances.

Naturally, the construction of this type of premises is not an easy process. Because if you do not adhere to the technology and do not know what to pay attention to, then in the end the cellar will simply be unsuitable for use.

And you need to provide for such things:

Eliminate cellar flooding... To prevent this, you must first understand at what depth the groundwater passes, to what level they rise during the period of rains and melting snow. Based on such information, the depth of the cellar and the quality of waterproofing are determined. In addition, it is not a fact that waterproofing work will be enough - you may have to drain water using a drainage system.
So be sure to first conduct a survey of the soil and only then proceed with the budgeting and construction.

Advice: if your own knowledge for geological exploration is not enough, then do not spare the money - take a one-time consultation from a specialist in this matter.
It won't take much money, but in the end, the likelihood of building a really good basement will be much higher.

Ensure proper ventilation... If this moment is not planned in advance, then mold, fungus, condensation will very quickly begin to appear on the walls of the cellar. All moisture in winter will turn into ice, which will gradually "tear" the wall, that is, violate its tightness and moisture protection. It is possible that there will not be any serious consequences right away, but the constant dampness in the basement does not definitely give the structure strength, you will agree. And besides, storing vegetables will turn into headache- after all, in such conditions they will simply begin to rot.

Such are the nuances.

In principle, if you have planned how the ventilation will be done and found out at what depth the groundwater passes, then you can start construction.

Let's start with the first option.

Construction of a garage and basement "from scratch"

So, we are building a garage with a basement - what is important to understand here is that the simplest and most popular construction technology is considered below. And in your case, there may well be some nuances, because of which you will have to apply a completely different method of work. Or you can make adjustments to the instructions, which are published below.

For example, we will consider work using concrete mix, without using bricks to create walls, but this is not a clear rule at all. It is quite acceptable to use brick or ready-made foundation blocks here.

The choice, after all, depends by and large on what kind of material it is easier for you to buy and with what it will be easier to work with later.

Pay attention to the fact that you can use a brick, but not all of it.
For such a project, red brick is more suitable than white silicate.
Because red is moisture resistant, and the basement is just the environment where this quality is required.

Therefore, remember that building a garage with a basement (however, like any construction site) is quite flexible and what materials to buy and what technology to build on depends mainly on your budget, tasks and skills. The main thing is not to use materials that are not suitable in principle (like silicate brick, for example).

And back to work - short step-by-step instruction.

Digging a pit

Even if the basement is planned to be of a standard depth - 2-2.5 meters, it will still be easier and easier to involve an excavator in this business than to dig everything by hand.

But you also have to work with your own hands - you will need to trim the walls of the pit with shovels.

Suppose the pit is ready, now you need to sheathe its walls with either film or boards. This is necessary in order to exclude shedding of the earth in concrete mix, which will be used for pouring the foundation and walls.

It is also advisable (for the same protective purposes) to install plank formwork along the perimeter of the upper edge of the pit.

If this is done, then you can proceed to the next stage.

Foundation device and wall pouring

The foundation in our case will be slab, or rather slightly combined - with the addition of a tape around the perimeter.

It is done quite simply and in this order:

A tape depression is made around the perimeter of the pit, 50 centimeters wide and at least 30-40 cm high.

Advice: it is advisable to make so-called "heels" - at the corners of the tape, as well as every one and a half or two meters along each strip.
The heels are square pits wider and deeper than the tape itself, into which concrete is also poured.
The price of the project will not change much from this, but there will be a lot of benefits.
Indeed, in fact, these are pillows, due to which the foundation will be able to withstand additional loads during the shrinkage of the building.

The entire surface of the bottom of the pit is leveled as much as possible, all foreign objects are removed from it.
The bottom and the belt around the perimeter are covered with sand, which must be carefully tamped. This will be a kind of amortization layer between the soil and the future foundation.
On top of the sand along the plane of the bottom, either an ordinary film (the thicker the better) or roofing material on a film basis spreads. But it is better not to wrap the bottom and inner walls of the belt around the perimeter with a film - use only roofing felt.

After that, all the ground structural elements (walls, roof) are made, and then it is already possible to carry out the arrangement of the basement in the garage.

Now let's look at the second construction option.

Cellar device in an already finished garage

In this case, we have a ready-made frame of the room - walls and roof. It turns out that you need to do everything so that all these elements are not damaged. It’s quite real.

The technology lies in the fact that the construction of the basement in the garage is carried out in the following sequence:

The perimeter of the future cellar is marked.

Please note that the indent from the line of the walls must be made at least 30 centimeters. If this distance is less, then there is a great risk that during the construction of the cellar the garage will shrink, and, accordingly, its walls will crack.

A pit of the required depth is being dug.
Roofing material spreads along the bottom with an overlap on the walls of the pit. You can lay it in several layers - the level of waterproofing will be better.
Is being done concrete screed along the bottom of the pit.
Erected from bricks or poured from concrete, the walls of the future cellar. In this case, you need to leave space for a moisture-protective layer. outside walls. It is advisable to make such insulation with special mastics, which are usually applied with spatulas or rollers (If the space between the walls and the ground is narrow, then a tool with long handles can be used to reach the lower level). Also apply and roll materials.
Since it is not possible to carry out operations with finished slabs (due to the height and width of the garage itself), the overlap will have to be done independently. Planks are placed horizontally on the supports (taking into account the hole for the hatch), a film is laid on top of them and a frame made of reinforcement is knitted - formwork is obtained.

A layer of concrete with a thickness of about 30-40 cm is poured onto the plane of the formwork. It is undesirable to do less, since this is still a garage, not a house. The load from the car is, after all, an order of magnitude greater than the weight of a person.

This type of cellar does not take up much space on the site (and even saves it), you can go down into it even in winter when there are snowdrifts around (a normal cellar would still have to be dug out). Also, such a cellar does not need to be insulated.

When building this cellar, two main rules must be followed:

There must be complete water tightness;
Good ventilation.

It is better to carry out the installation of the basement simultaneously with the construction of the garage itself. Since it will be more convenient to choose a bookmark option, install ventilation and waterproofing.

If at the time of installation of the basement, the garage was built long ago, then it will be somewhat more difficult.

How to make a basement under the garage

Before building a garage, you must first of all study the soil, and its capabilities (more precisely, find out how deep the groundwater is) and whether it is possible to make a hole of about 300-350 cm.

If you are going to build a garage instead of a cellar, then it is better to use a strip foundation (in this case, part of the walls will replace the foundation itself).

In general, the basement pit itself is usually made with a depth of 150 to 300 centimeters.

If in your area there is a high level of groundwater, then the basement device must be made of monolithic concrete which has high density and water resistance.

How to dig a hole in a garage for a basement

First of all, you need to tackle the pit (before that, it is better to decide how the pit will be used, as a storage cellar or as a viewing pit for a car).

The dimensions also depend on the purpose of the pit, if the pit for the basement is most often the same dimensions as the garage itself, then the inspection pit should have clear dimensions.

For example, for inspection pit the length must be the length of the car itself + 100 cm, width - should accommodate the wheelbase of the car (although if you do not yet know which car you will buy), then you can take standard width- from 750 to 800 mm.

The depth of the pit is the growth of the owner of the garage + 100-150 mm. It is better to make the hole deeper than to stand bending over in sweat.

When we already have a foundation pit according to your dimensions, you need to start concreting it.

But first, the bottom of the pit is tamped well (you can use a special machine) and a layer of gravel 100 mm thick is covered. Sand is poured on top of the gravel (with a layer of 50 mm).

If you have a sufficiently wet soil, we still lay clay on top of the sand (it will be additional waterproofing).

On top of the clay (or sand), a polyethylene film is laid.

Only then can you start pouring concrete (and do not forget to reinforce it).

Foundation for a garage with a basement

At the stage preparatory work we calculate the parameters of the foundation, purchase necessary materials(and perhaps we buy or rent equipment).

Basement height is usually made from 170 to 180 cm.

After completing all the calculations, you need to make a markup for the foundation.

Generally, the markings are needed for correct land work.

With the help of markup, you can detect some errors that were made in the calculations.

Usually markings are made using pegs to which the rope is attached.

How to make a foundation with a basement: making formwork.

Now we turn to the formwork, boards are often taken for formwork (thickness 2.5 cm). To reduce the absorbency of the boards themselves, they are cut off from the side of the foundation and slightly soaked in water.

After the boards are prepared, shields are made from them and installed in trenches (fixation occurs due to struts and slopes).

After that, you need to do the reinforcement, take rods with a thickness of 8-12 mm, which are welded together. Bars that are installed vertically are best installed every 50 cm.

Once ready reinforcement cage and installed inside the formwork, we make the filling of cement.

We take cement M400 and above (cement, crushed stone, water 1: 4: 1) and pour it into the trench. After pouring the foundation (14-20 days), the formwork is removed.

Basement under the garage with your own hands

The garage is very comfortable spot for storing almost unnecessary things. There is practically no space for this in the apartment, so many people use the garage space. And it's worth noting that the number of things that may come in handy someday goes beyond all limits. There are so many of them in the garage that even the car drives in with difficulty. There is a way out, along with a viewing hole, which is simply necessary in the garage, to build a basement. This is not difficult at all, but step-by-step instructions will help you do it right.

Step # 1. Study of geology

First of all, before building a basement, you should familiarize yourself with the characteristics of the soil and the level of groundwater. This will help determine the feasibility of equipping the basement and the cost of these works. If the soil is rocky or the water table is quite high, then the cost of building it will grow exponentially. In these cases, you cannot do without special equipment and the help of specialists.

When building a basement inside an existing garage, all the geological features were already known, they were thoroughly studied when building a house for a car. If the construction is being carried out for the first time, then you need to pay attention to all the nuances.

Step # 2. Determining the size of the future basement.

It should be noted here that if the garage is just being built, then it is quite advisable to make a pit according to its size, then the walls of the basement will simultaneously serve as a foundation. If the garage is already installed and there is no basement in it, the size of the basement will be a little more modest. From the walls of the building you will need to retreat approximately

The minimum height of the structure must correspond to the growth of the owner, plus a margin of 150-200 mm, so that a person can move freely around the basement.

Step # 3. Sketches of the future basement

Before starting construction, you should sketch a drawing of the future storage with real dimensions. This will allow you to choose the best way to lay the foundation, think over quality performance waterproofing works and arrangement of the ventilation system, make the layout of the premises and calculate the actual amount of building materials required for its construction.

Step # 4. Excavation

The advantage of building a basement on open area lies in the fact that the work can be automated as much as possible. Carry out excavation work with an excavator. In the garage, work on the development of the pit will have to be done manually, followed by the transportation of excess soil outside the garage.

If the underground water is above the level of the basement floor, you need to take care of lowering the height of the groundwater during construction work, the tightness of the basement and its subsequent waterproofing.

Step # 5. Basement floor device

The depth under the basement storage should be 300-350 mm deeper than the mark of the future floor. First you need to arrange the base of the floor. To do this, it is necessary to fill the bottom of the pit with fine crushed stone and tamp it thoroughly. Next, fill the so-called pillow with hot bitumen.

After it has solidified, it is made reinforcement mesh and poured with heavy concrete. The floor thickness must be at least 200 mm.

Step 6. Walling

Material for walls in basement depends on the characteristics of the soil. If the basement is being built in dry soils, then solid red brick is perfect for the walls. You can use cinder blocks, but excluding their interaction with moisture, which causes harmful effects, is better with outside cover the walls with waterproofing materials.

Reinforced concrete is used in wet ground. Ideal material foundation blocks will serve.

However, their use is possible only if there is a free entrance and a lifting mechanism, otherwise it can be done monolithic walls by pouring concrete into the prepared formwork.

It is made of wood. Boards are fastened with nails, see photo. Next, a reinforcement structure is installed. It should be noted that the height of each layer of poured concrete should be no more than 400 mm.

After pouring the first layer, the formwork is installed for the next one according to the same dimensions.

Step 7. Ceiling device

When overlapping the basement, remember that its ceiling serves as the floor of the garage, so it must be strong and reliable, capable of supporting the weight of the car. In a garage under construction, the basement can be covered with ready-made factory slabs; in an existing one, it is advisable to fill in a monolithic ceiling. To do this, it is necessary to install the formwork, manufacture and assemble reinforced mesh and pour with heavy concrete. The thickness of the slab must be at least 200 mm.

Step number 8. Waterproofing works

Basement waterproofing is a rather important undertaking. If we neglect these works, then the result will be a room unsuitable for storing anything. If the basement is located in dry and dense soils, then a complex waterproofing system is not needed.

It is enough to apply a layer of hot bitumen mastic to the walls and floor.

A waterproofing system in wet soils requires a more serious approach. The most reliable is external waterproofing, which can be arranged using roll materials or polymer mastics, liquid rubber and liquid glass.

The outer surface of the walls is plastered to level the surface with a waterproofing compound, better with reinforcement. It is better to use solutions of well-known companies Ceresit, IVSIL, Xypex Cemical Corporation, BASF, Saint-Gobain WEBER-VETONIT, Bastion, “Irmast-Holding”, “Penetron-Russia” as a plaster composition.

After that, a layer of waterproofing is applied (roofing material, polymer membranes, bitumen-containing mastics or other lubricants intended for waterproofing foundations).

V further wall the basement is plastered again.

The bottom of the trench is covered with sand and compacted, then it is necessary to fix the geotextile cloth, blocking the bottom of the trench and its reverse wall. After that, you need to fill in the crushed stone of a coarse fraction and a PVC pipe is mounted, which acts as a drainage. Groundwater is discharged into a specially prepared drainage well.

A layer of crushed stone 100-150 mm is laid on top of the pipe and covered with a geotextile sheet.

A layer of clay should be laid near the concrete wall, it will serve as a hydraulic lock, and fill the trench with sand and tamp it so that the soil does not settle.

If, for some reason, external waterproofing cannot be performed, it is made from the inside.

Step 9. Ventilation

An equally important event is the air exchange device in the basement. You can take a simple path and arrange natural ventilation in the basement. It is not difficult to do this, but natural air exchange does not give the desired effect, although it has the right to life.

More reliable is the forced ventilation option. This type of air exchange can be performed by simply adding an electric fan to the exhaust duct of natural ventilation. This will keep the basement room at a normal temperature and humidity, regardless of the season or unfavorable weather.

Installation of ventilation ducts is carried out as follows:

The supply channel is located at a height of 150-200 mm from the floor level, its opposite end is brought out into the street, at a height of 200-300 mm. The exhaust duct must be placed as close as possible to the ceiling and brought out half a meter above the level of the garage roof.

As mentioned above, an electric fan is installed in the exhaust duct. To avoid the formation of condensation due to differential temperature regimes the outer part of the ventilation ducts must be insulated.

In order to avoid the ingress of precipitation inside the duct, it is recommended to install a fungus on its head,

and for protection against rodents, protective metal nets.

Step 10. Ladder device

When building a basement, together with a garage, you can use a ready-made reinforced concrete staircase, if everything takes place in an existing garage, then it is better to make it from scrap materials with your own hands.

The switch must be located in the garage,

and the luminaire must be waterproof.

Step 12. Finishing work

Basement walls must be plastered with water-repellent cement mixture type Ceresit, Sm-11, Osovit Startwell, having previously secured a thin metal mesh with dowels. After the surface has dried, you can whitewash it with lime, which has protective and disinfectant properties, or paint it with acrylic and silicate paints containing antiseptic additives, after pretreating the surface with a deep penetration primer.

Basement project under the garage photo and video

Dry basement, cellar and pit in the garage with your own hands on video

If you have a lot of vegetables every year and you don't know where, take a look at how you can build a basement in your garage. The underground room can be used to store not only the gifts of nature, but also other things. We offer you to understand in detail the intricacies of the process.

Read in the article

Types of cellars in the garage with photo examples

Development of a project with an optimal cellar depth in the garage

Prepare before starting construction work. When working out a detailed drawing, you should make sure that there are no communications in the place where the construction is planned. Considering that most often the cellars in the garage are located at a depth of 2.5–3.5 m, the pipes will be higher.

When calculating the dimensions of the pit, the following should be taken into account:

the depth must be 30 - 40 cm greater than the selected basement depth. The size depends on the thickness of the sand substrate and the screed to be poured;
the width and length will be at least 35 cm larger than the similar dimensions of the underground structure to form walls of sufficient thickness.

Attention! When choosing a material for the construction of walls, it is imperative to take into account the level of groundwater.

We make a cellar in the garage with our own hands: all stages step by step

If you decide to build a cellar in the garage with your own hands, we propose to consider all the main stages step by step. This will allow you not only to determine the upcoming volume of work, but also to make preliminary calculations of the costs of their implementation.

Materials and tools for work

When starting to build a cellar in the garage, you should prepare correct material... This will require a sufficient amount of concrete, the basis of which will be M400 or M500. Walls can be built from any durable material, including concrete slabs... To ensure a sufficient level of protection against groundwater, roofing material should be prepared.

Attention! For walls, it is unacceptable to use materials that absorb water well: cinder concrete and silicate bricks.

The list of equipment and tools used is standard and depends on the list of works. In addition, you must have in stock a sledgehammer, drill, pliers,.

How to make a pit for a cellar in a garage with your own hands: possible options

The method of forming a pit depends on the type of soil in a particular area. If the ground is dense and heavy, the question of how to make a pit for a cellar in a garage usually does not arise. It is quite difficult to dig it out with your own hands. If the soil is soft and the amount of soil removed is relatively small, you can use a shovel.

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In order not to think about how to properly dig a pit for the cellar in the garage, carefully study the drawings. They contain all the information you need about size and shape.

How to lay the foundation and make the basement floor in the garage: sequence of actions

After the pit is fully formed, you can start shaping. The service life of the structure as a whole depends on its strength characteristics. The work is carried out in the following sequence:

Illustration	Description of action
	Pour a layer of sand on the bottom of the prepared pit and tamp it carefully.
	Lay a layer of film on top. To prevent its displacement, we use pins. We lay the reinforcing mesh according to the level.
	Now how to make a floor in a garage cellar. We fill in the concrete slab. The surface should be formed strictly according to the exposed beacons. If the work is carried out in winter time, special antifreeze additives should be added to the solution. Let the solution dry completely.

In more detail, the process of pouring the floor can be seen in the following video:

Usually the cellar is deep enough, so you should take care of the availability. Most often, preference is given to the following constructions:

traditional, the so-called attachment;

marching, mounted directly during construction.

For the manufacture of both structures can be used:

wood... All elements in this case must be treated with an antiseptic solution;

metal... Such a ladder should be protected from corrosion with;

concrete. Robust construction, in need of strict adherence to technological requirements during the construction process. For additional protection against negative impacts can be used paintwork either.

Concrete structures have high strength

Having decided on the type of construction, it is important to know how to make comfortable stairs to the basement of the garage. To ensure the safety of systems, the following requirements are established:

opening width 80 - 90 cm;
slope 22 - 75º. Values above 45º should be selected for attached structures;
The width of the steps should be selected from the range of 25 - 32 cm;
The height of the steps is 12 - 22 cm.

How to make the walls of the cellar in the garage: possible options

To figure out how to correctly make the walls of the cellar in the garage, you need to know what materials they will be built from. If you decide to give preference monolithic construction, work is performed in the following sequence:

it is installed along the perimeter of the underground structure, for reliability it is fixed on metal pillars;
a concrete solution is being prepared;
the wall is being formed.

Installation of vertical slabs is carried out using special equipment. In this case, the verticality of the formed wall and a strong connection of the elements must be ensured.

It is possible to use expanded clay concrete blocks:

Illustration	Description of action
	If this has not been done earlier, the base is formed from which the walls will be installed.
	The first layer is laid on the strip.
	We form the walls, carefully controlling their verticality.

Arrangement of ventilation of the cellar in the garage

To create optimal conditions in the basement, it is necessary to properly arrange the cellar in the garage. can be natural and coercive. Let's figure out the features of each type.

Natural ventilation

Arrangement of natural ventilation in the basement in the garage does not require significant costs... When doing DIY installation, work is performed in the following sequence:

we install the hood under the ceiling in such a way that the pipe outlet protrudes half a meter above the roof. Through it, air from the underground structure will flow outside;
the supply pipe is mounted 10 cm from the floor. It is designed to supply fresh air;
we install nets on the outlet openings to prevent insects from entering the basement.

In winter, such a system, due to the formed frost, ceases to function if it is not looked after. Exits should be carefully insulated and snow removed from them in a timely manner.

Forced ventilation

The structural difference of the forced system is the presence of a special electrical system that circulates air masses. The vortex flow created by it ensures the timely removal of air masses outside the premises. Fresh air is supplied to the cellar along the top.

Attention! It is possible to install a fully mechanized ventilation equipped with a programmable monoblock.

We offer you to watch a video about the features of the functioning such a system, so that later it would be easier to build an exhaust ventilation with your own hands:

Overlap and hatch device

Before starting work, you should decide how to block the cellar in the garage. The choice will depend on the size of the underground structure. If its width corresponds to the dimensions of the inspection pit, you can take a forty board. In other cases, you will need more reliable elements that can withstand the weight of the car. As a rule, the choice is made in favor of a reinforcing frame either. The latter should be chosen if the garage has yet to be built.

You can form the overlap of the cellar in the garage with your own hands, which in its properties is comparable to a concrete slab, as follows:

using railway rails, we mount load-bearing beams... They can be purchased at metal collection points;
we install the formwork;
pour concrete.

For the manufacture of the hatch, you can use various materials, but most often this element is formed from steel sheet... For this:

the elements are cut off the right size and configuration;
we weld metal corners around the edges, providing a small gap;
we insulate the inside. Foam all the gaps;
we put tin or other material on the insulation as a decor;
we attach the hinges and the handle;
we hang the assembled structure on the hinges.

Do-it-yourself basement insulation in the garage

Quality everyone structural elements basement in the garage can be done by hand. If this is not done, the room will be cold enough and dampness may appear over time. It is necessary to insulate not only the ceiling and walls, but also the floor. Most often, foam is used as a heat-insulating material - it has an affordable cost and good thermal insulation characteristics.

Floor and ceiling

Ceiling insulation works are performed in the following sequence:

the base is carefully examined. All existing cracks and cracks are eliminated;
vapor barrier material is attached. We recommend using penofol, which has optimal characteristics for such a case;
the crate is mounted. The distance between the elements must correspond to the width of the thermal insulation material;
insulation is laid;
the second layer of vapor barrier is attached.

Wall colors can be any

How to build a basement in a finished garage: a video example of work

If the garage has yet to be built, building a cellar is usually not difficult. We suggest watching a video on how to dig a cellar in a finished garage. It can be used as a video tutorial:

We get rid of water and mold when repairing a cellar in a garage

Over time, dampness may appear in the basement, sometimes water begins to accumulate. In such situations, the repair of the cellar in the garage is urgently needed: it will help get rid of mold and other negative consequences of high humidity.

In order not to fight mold in the future, you need to perform waterproofing work with high quality initially.

Every car enthusiast at least once in his life thought about how to build a basement in the garage with his own hands. This is a pretty good idea, because the owner of the building gets the opportunity to increase free space, which can be used not only for storing tools or spare parts for the car. Many people equip an underground room for a cellar, where conservation is preserved, or set up a billiard table here. If the landlord is pursuing a similar goal, it is imperative for him to make a dry basement. How does this happen technological process, will be described in detail in our article.

Requirements for an underground room

Smart people consider arranging a cellar in a garage as a profitable investment, because such a building is valued much more expensive than an ordinary building. In addition, an unnecessary basement can be rented out and get additional profit from it. In order for the building to serve as long as possible, certain rules must be observed:

Lay quality and reliable waterproofing that will prevent penetration surface waters inside the room. Before digging a cellar, it is recommended to conduct geodetic studies and find out about the maximum and minimum groundwater levels. The liquid reaches a critical point during winter thaws or during prolonged rainy weather. Digging out the basement better in autumn when the groundwater is deep. The information obtained as a result of the research will help determine the depth of the foundation, will make it possible to select high-quality waterproofing.
Waterproofing will not always be able to cope with the problem of moisture penetration into the room, therefore, a drainage system is provided for drainage in the garage.
When building a cellar in the garage, ventilation is mandatory. It's connected with high humidity in an underground room. Exhaust ventilation allows you to pump clean air into the cellar and remove exhaust gases. If you do not make a hood, fungus or mold will soon appear on the surfaces of the enclosing structures. Such negative impacts will sooner or later lead to spoilage of food products or stored things.
If the basement under the garage will be used as a workshop or a place to relax with friends, the walls of this room must be insulated without fail. Moreover thermal insulation materials must withstand moisture well, even in cases where the enclosing structures are covered with high-quality waterproofing.

Work technology

The main construction works should be preceded by the drafting of the garage project. On the sketch, buildings are applied dimensions, and design features individual nodes. At the initial stage of work, it is necessary to determine the type of heat and waterproofing, material for the walls, the number of floor slabs.

With a high level of groundwater (less than 3 meters from the surface of the earth), the floor, as well as the walls of the basement, are built from monolithic concrete slabs. Lightweight enclosing structures are erected only on dry, non-porous soils. The process of building a basement in a garage consists of several simple sequential steps:

We make markings for the future cellar according to a pre-developed project.
We pull out the foundation pit manually or with an excavator.
Level the floor surface.
We lay roofing material at the bottom of the pit, observing an overlap within 15 centimeters. We lay the waterproofing material on the walls by 20 centimeters.
We concreting the floor, reinforcing the structure with a metal mesh.
We carry out the installation of the basement walls using concrete mix or brick for this purpose. From the outside of the building, hot bitumen mastic is applied to the surface at the point of contact of the enclosing structure with the soil.
We lay the factory monolithic slabs or arrange a plank floor.
We install heat and waterproofing, supply the power grid, install ventilation system.

The nuances of the floor device

Basement construction begins with the installation of the floor. In order to get a dry and warm floor covering during the excavation of the pit, the depth is increased by 30-40 centimeters from the design mark. A 15 centimeter layer of sand is poured into the bottom of the pit. The bedding is compacted by spilling it with water, and then crushed stone is poured, the thickness of the pillow is about 15 centimeters. Such materials will be used as drainage. The inflowing groundwater will not linger near the waterproofing, the liquid will quickly leave through the layer of rubble and sand.

After the crushed stone is tamped onto a large pit, rolls of waterproofing materials are laid in several layers, the panels are glued together with hot bitumen. Next, the floor in the basement of the garage is poured using cement-sand mortar or special leveling mixtures with reinforcing fiber (screed thickness within 2-3 centimeters). When the base is dry, it is impregnated with a waterproofing primer.

Many garage owners make clay floors in their cellars. Design flooring consists of two layers of clay, 25 and 40 centimeters each. In the middle between the layers, rolls are laid waterproofing materials... Boardwalk is used as a finishing flooring.

What to make basement walls

Manufacturing material load-bearing structures will depend on the physical and mechanical properties of the soil. For operation in dry soils, brick walls can be used. For all other types of soils, strong and reliable reinforced concrete is used. To prevent the destruction of bricks, it is necessary to finish the basement of the garage with plaster mortars.

Before the construction of concrete walls, wooden formwork is made (the height of each section is within 30-40 centimeters). A frame made of reinforcement is installed inside the enclosing structure. The sections are rearranged as the concrete hardens until the wall reaches the desired height.

Advice! Not everyone knows how to make a basement in a garage right. A deep penetration primer helps to strengthen the waterproofing. such solutions are applied to the surfaces of brick or concrete walls.

Waterproofing device

The durability of the entire cellar will depend on a properly installed waterproofing. We have already discussed the process of waterproofing the floor above, but there are rules in insulating the surface of the walls. Special attention it is necessary to draw on streams of water on the enclosing structures. These problem areas are clogged with oily clay. Not everyone knows how to properly seal the leaks, for this you need to widen the depression and put clay there.

During the construction of the cellar in the garage, a small gap is left between the pit and the wall. Roll waterproofing materials are glued to the outer walls, the panels are coated with hot bitumen mastic. The free space between the soil and the wall is clogged with clay. It is possible to fill in ordinary soil in the gap if the groundwater is below the level of the foundation.

How to make ventilation

A ventilation system is required in the garage basement. In order to provide the underground room with a sufficient amount of clean air and effectively remove the exhaust gases, several small holes are made in the basement of the walls. Ventilation can be natural, where air flows through a difference in pressure inside or outside the room, or forced. A fan is used to circulate air. Now that we know how to build a cellar in the garage, let's get acquainted with the nuances of installing the hood:

We prepare two pipes.
We fix the first one near the ceiling, the upper edge of the pipe should rise 35-50 centimeters above the roof. To prevent the ingress of debris and insects, the upper opening is closed with a net or a special cap.
The second pipe for the inflow of fresh air is fixed at a distance of 5-10 centimeters from the floor. The top edge of the pipe should rise 30 centimeters above the soil surface. This hole is also covered with a net.

Making a cellar in the garage with your own hands is quite simple, it is much more difficult to maintain such a ventilation system. V winter period it may not work. To prevent such unpleasant situations, it is necessary to insulate the pipelines, as well as to clean the accumulated snow. The inlet of the pipes is made removable for ease of maintenance.

How to insulate a basement

When making a cellar under the garage with your own hands, take care of high-quality insulation of the underground room. Thermal insulation must be installed without fail, regardless of the purpose of using the basement. In the absence of insulation, it will be cold in this part of the building in winter, which will lead to icing of stored vegetables and conservation.

When insulating the cellar with your own hands, choose foam or extruded polystyrene foam. Such materials not only have a minimum coefficient of thermal conductivity, they are not afraid of moisture, therefore, fungus or mold will never appear on the surface of such thermal insulation. For laying in the basement, foam sheets with a thickness of at least 5 centimeters are used.

Note! When gluing insulation with inside room in any case, condensation will appear. This is due to the significant temperature difference inside and outside the cellar.

To prevent the appearance of condensation, insulate the basement only from the outside. If this is not possible, a layer of 1-2 centimeters is left between the thermal insulation and the wall. The free space between the materials is used to remove water vapor.

We have described how to build a basement in a garage. The main technological process may differ depending on the characteristics of the soil and the financial capabilities of the owner of the building.