Make a homemade water faucet. Automatic crane shutdown

I decided to make some distilled water here and, accordingly, I needed to connect Liebig's refrigerator (distiller) to the water supply. I began to think about how to connect the hose to the tap.

Standard solutions in the form of ready-made adapters for a hose tap cost some absolutely unthinkable money (), so I began to think about how to get by with a little blood.

In general, the solution turned out to be primitive: to connect the hose to the tap, the easiest way is to use an aerator:

The fact is that the thread on the mixer shower is very specific (diameter 22 mm, pitch 1 mm) and no ready-made plumbing gadgets are suitable for it. Except for the aerator, of course.

We unscrew it and shake out all the insides. We only need the metal shell itself:

By the way, plastic aerators, due to their fragility and fragility, are completely unsuitable. Need from metal.

We go to the nearest market, where they sell all kinds of plumbing and buy there a fitting of the required diameter (for the hose we have) with a 1/2 inch female thread. I bought at 9mm:

We clamp the fitting into the drill, check that there are no beats during rotation:

We take a grinder with a cut-off wheel and separate the excess:

You should end up with something like this:

Then we change the cutting wheel on the grinder to a petal one:

and carefully grind it to get a flat plane:

Then, with the same petal circle, we turn the hexagon into a circle and reduce its diameter until our modernized fitting begins to enter the inside of the aerator body. This should be done very slowly and carefully, the main thing is not to miss the moment. Periodically we stop and check whether it is included or not:

As soon as the fitting began to freely pass through the thread and abut against the internal narrowing of the aerator body, then our nozzle for the hose faucet is ready. All that remains is to find a 1/2 "silicone gasket (they are everywhere like dirt).

So, here is the answer to the question of how to connect the hose to the mixer:

Everything is assembled in this order:

I checked it in work: nothing leaks anywhere, everything is reliable and aesthetically pleasing.

In total, our nozzle for a water tap for a hose cost 45 rubles (brass fitting), 5 rubles for a gasket and about 40 minutes of time, including cleaning the room.

And as a bonus, we also have a half-inch brass nut left:

I hope my experience was useful to you and you learned another way to connect the hose to the kitchen faucet.

By the way, the aerator will not suffer after such use. It can be reassembled and screwed into place. As if nothing had happened!

Well, if you do not have the ability to grind the fitting, for example, there is no suitable tool, then the adapter for the hose faucet can be made even easier. How? Watch the video!

That's all. Thank you for the attention!

Modern industry produces many different taps and valves for regulating the flow of liquid. You can find the right one for every application. However, the inquisitive minds of home craftsmen do not abandon their attempts to develop and implement their own designs. Sometimes this is caused by the desire to save money, but more often - by the desire to test their own strengths as a designer, machine builder, locksmith and electrical engineer.

Types of cranes

Trying to replicate the design of a conventional shut-off valve makes no practical and economic sense if the home workshop is not equipped with high-precision milling, turning and drilling machines. The price of industrial designs for mass production is affordable even for the most modest budget. Another thing is technically complex shut-off valves for special applications, such as:

ball with electric drive;
needle;
non-freezing;
with a flowing water heater;

Do-it-yourself options for their implementation will be discussed below.

Ball with electric drive,

The motorized valve can be used in modern smart water, heating and air conditioning systems, built by DIYers with minimal use of off-the-shelf components. In addition to testing your strength, there will be a significant monetary benefit - a purchased device with an electric drive costs from 2 to 10 thousand rubles.

For a do-it-yourself ball valve with an installed electric drive, you will need the following materials and components:

ball valve 3/4 ″;

Figure 1: Valve 3/4

power window drive for Lada 1117, 2123 left LSA;

Figure 2: Power Window Regulator

five-pin automotive relays - 2 pcs .;
limit microswitches - 2 pcs .;
sheet metal with a thickness of 1 mm (for the bed and clamps);
steel tube 10 mm - trimming (for bushings);
square profile 10 * 10 mm - 10 cm;
metal strip 4 mm thick - 10 * 1 cm;
spring with a diameter of 12 mm;
bolt М8 * 45 with nut and washers - 2 pcs.

All electrical equipment is 12 volts. Of the tools you need:

drill;
scissors for metal;
workbench with a vice;
welding machine;
hand tools (hammer, screwdriver, wrenches, pliers, etc.)

The created mechanism must allow the electric crane to be operated both by means of a drive and manually. The manufacturing sequence is as follows:

Bend the U-shaped frame out of a sheet of metal.
From the tube sections, make bushings for marking the power window drive to the frame.
Secure the drive.
Fix the frame to the branch pipes coming out of the ball valve using clamps.
From the square profile, cut out a nozzle on the gearbox axle.
Weld a strip to it.
Assemble the drive linkage from the strip and the handle by springing it. The spring presses the levers together, if necessary, they can be quickly disconnected without the use of tools and the crane can be operated manually.
Pivotally fasten the strip to the handle using a bolt and a nut. Lock the nut.
Fasten the square profile to the shaft of the window regulator gearbox.

Next, you should test the kinematics by applying voltage to the electric motor. You can use a car battery or power supply with at least 50W. The linkage should move smoothly, without jerks or distortions. If necessary, correct interfering parts with a file.

Now comes the turn of the electrical part of the drive.

In the extreme positions of the handle, mount the limit microswitches.
They should be connected in such a way that they open the control circuit of the relay through which the motor is turned on, upon reaching the extreme position "Open" or "Closed".

Such a drive can be connected to the control circuits of the “smart home” system. A do-it-yourself electric faucet for water will be cost-effective if the power window drive is inexpensive. A new one costs up to 1 thousand rubles, and can eat up half of the savings.

Instead of a power window drive, you can use any other electric drive,

Figure 3: Motorized crane

close in power and torque.

Needle

A needle valve with a large adjustment range can be assembled from scrap materials at low cost. To make it you will need:

Disposable plastic syringe 2 ml.
Insulin syringe 1 ml.
Bearing ball - 2 pcs.
Springs - 2 pcs.
Nut and adjusting screw.
Epoxy adhesive.
Fasteners.
Plastic ties-2 pcs.

Figure 4: Valve schematic

The diagram shows:

Syringes are black.
The balls are blue.
Springs - green.
The stock is red.
Direction of fluid movement - green arrows.

To make a crane, you should:

Pick up balls by diameter. The large one should be slightly smaller than the internal size of the 2 ml syringe, the small one should be 2 times smaller.
Pick up the springs by force. The compression force of the large spring is about twice that of the small one.
Drill a hole in a large syringe near the spout, equal to the inner diameter of the insulin. Pull the insulin syringe by the ears with zip ties, wrap with synthetic threads and glue.
Insert the small ball and the smaller spring into the large syringe.
Cut off the piston rod.
Insert the large spring and the second ball.
Insert the adjusting screw.
Fasten the nut to the lugs with the screws.

Figure 5: Finished construction

The incoming liquid will tend to squeeze the ball away from the inlet, the spring will press it back the stronger, the harder the adjusting screw is tightened. If the screw is completely unscrewed, the flow will pass freely, if completely tightened, the flow will be cut off.

Anti-freeze tap

Those who need to use the water supply on the site in the winter are faced with the problem of freezing a street tap. At large temperature differences, the water inside the fittings and pipes turns into ice and can break them.

There are several ways to organize such a water supply:

Installing a purchased anti-freeze tap. In it, the valve disc is located inside the warm contour of the walls. They always install it with a slope towards the street. Then, after closing the valve, the water remaining in the pipe flows down and does not freeze in the pipe. The devices are available in different lengths, which allows them to be installed in walls of various thicknesses.

Figure 6: Anti-freeze valve

A home-made version of such a device is a conventional poppet faucet mounted on an inlet inside the warm contour of the walls. Its stem is elongated by a rod passing through the wall in the tube. A handle is attached to the outside of the bar. The branch pipe must also be installed with a slope towards the street. This method requires an extra hole in the wall, but costs several times cheaper. Of course, you will have to periodically chop off the ice that forms under the outflow.

Figure 7: Homemade Anti-Freeze Valve

A crane installed on an underground insulated water supply system. In this case, it is necessary to have a drainage into which the water remaining after closing the valve in the vertical branch pipe will be drained. It is used in the construction, installed in a heat-insulated pit.

Figure 8: Three-way valve

The valve is operated from the street through the stem extension. In the working position, it turns on the water supply to the vertical branch pipe, at the end of which the spout is mounted. As soon as the water is collected, the tap is closed, the supply stops, and the water remaining in the branch pipe is drained into the drain through the third hole of the tap.

Sensory

It is unlikely that a home craftsman will be able to make a full-fledged touch faucet. The main problem will be in the placement and waterproofing of the infrared proximity sensor. An interesting enough design that allows you to turn on and off the water with busy hands can be assembled using

Solenoid valve from the washing machine for 220 v - 2 pcs.
Nipple 10mm * 1/2 external thread - 2 pcs.
¾ to ½ fittings thread - 2 pcs.
Bell button for surface mounting.
Wires.

The order of installation and configuration is as follows:

The valves are installed in the break in the hot and cold water line, directly in front of the mixer.
Their drive is connected via a foot switch.
During presetting, with the solenoid valves open, set the required temperature and water flow rate and leave the mixer tap in this position.
If you need to turn on the water, just press the bell button - the valves will work, and the water will flow from the tap.

When water is no longer needed, it is enough to release the button and the springs will return the valve to the closed state. Particular attention should be paid to waterproofing the wires and connections.

Instantaneous water heater on the tap

Commercial instantaneous electric water heaters have a compact design and are equipped with a temperature control system, a spout and an aerator. It is unlikely that it will be possible to make such a tap attachment with your own hands in a home workshop. The main problem lies in the accuracy of processing parts and ensuring the electrical safety of the device. However, homemade products have developed a simple and quite effective design that makes it possible to do without complex and expensive components. It works by heating a coil heat exchanger on a gas or electric burner. Average locksmith skills are enough for making.

From materials and tools you will need:

Copper tube with a diameter of 10-12 mm - 1 meter
Heat-resistant rubber or plastic hoses - 2 distances from the burner to the sink +1 m
2 fittings with ½ inner diameter of hoses
Crane adapter for eurocube
4 clamps
Bows with threaded threads and nuts for them - 2 pcs.
Construction knife, screwdriver, gas wrench

The work is carried out in the following sequence:

Wind a spiral from the tube in the shape of the burner. Taper the spiral to make the most of the heat from the burner. Straight sections of the inlet and outlet pipes should extend beyond the plate panel by 20-30 cm.
Fasten the spiral to the slab grid. Put the hoses on the branch pipes and secure them with clamps.
Connect one fitting to the cold water supply (branch pipe or canister tap), the other to the mixer.
Put the free ends of the hoses on the fittings and also secure with clamps. Cold water must flow to the bottom of the spiral.

Figure 9: Homemade instantaneous water heater

When such a heater is in operation, it must not be left unattended for a minute.

Almost everyone knows the situation: because of a damaged mixer or a bursting flexible hose, it is necessary to spend a lot of money on repairs both in your apartment and in neighbors flooded with water. As a result, it was necessary to turn off the ball valves in a timely manner, which are now usually equipped with water supply in our apartments.

I want to tell you about a simple mechanical system that I have invented that will automatically turn off the taps at the first sign of a leak and save the apartment from flooding.

Principle of operation. Outwardly, the device for automatically turning off the water is somewhat reminiscent of a mousetrap. A spring is fixed on its wooden base, held in a stretched (cocked) position by a paper tape connected to the spring through an angled lever (photo 1). When wet, the tape breaks under the action of the spring, the spring is compressed and pulls the cable, which closes the ball valve.

The system is easy and quick to install, and even easier to dismantle. The "mousetrap" itself is installed on the floor in secluded places (in the basement of the sink cabinet or under the bathroom).

The system also allows you to shut off the water manually. The handle, fixed on the ball valve, is turned to the side, and the cables remain stationary.

Manufacturing. To do this, you will need a common tool: a vice, a hammer, an electric drill, a grinder or a hacksaw for metal, a sharpening machine, a screwdriver, pliers.

Of the materials needed: small pieces of sheet stainless steel and ordinary steel, a spring, cables, a wooden block, screws, nuts, screws, a piece of paper, pushpins.

I bought the door spring from a hardware store. I cut a strip of stainless steel from the wall of the tank of an old washing machine. I bought the cables at the Moto-Velo store, removed the excess braiding from them on a sharpening machine, and processed the cables themselves with lubricant for household needs.

The base of the device is made of a painted wooden block with dimensions 360x50x30 mm. One end of the bar should be cut at an angle of 93 ° to the top edge.

In fig. 1 shows the sweep of the metal parts of the system (fold lines are shown in red).

I cut out details No. 1 and 1a from steel sheet 4 mm thick, 16 from sheet 3 mm thick. These parts are attached to ball valves instead of standard handles (photo 2).

Parts No. 2 and 2a (brackets) are installed on the pipe near the ball valve, they serve to fix the cables (photo 3, 9). It should be borne in mind that the brackets can only be screwed to a metal pipe.

Part No. 3 also holds the cable, but only fixes it to the wooden base of the product. To shape this piece, I used a 150x20x50mm oak block as a template. Having bent the workpiece according to the template, I pulled out the bar, and made cutouts on the parts with a grinder for attaching the cable.

Part No. 3 (photo 4, 5) should be made of stainless steel, but for a sample it is better to make it out of cardboard first.

Moving part No. 4 (corner arm) is connected to a spring and a cable on one side, and a paper tape is attached to it on the other. This lever is also made of stainless steel. If the holding paper tape breaks, that part of the lever that is bent at an angle of 93 ° slides off the end of the wooden base, is pulled by a spring through part No. 3 and sets the cable in motion (it is attached to part No. 4 with parts No. 4a and 46). And thanks to the angular lever, the load on the paper tape created by the spring is reduced by about 10 times (photo 6,7).

Part No. 5 (hook) is used to hook the spring - the narrow tail of the part must be bent for this. In part No. 5, two holes are drilled: the first is for cocking (by sticking a finger into it, it is easier to tighten the spring), the second is for fixing it on the bar. Any screw screwed into the bar can serve as a hook. For this purpose, I used a hook that was sold with a door spring.

Installation, adjustment and service. The ball valve and the mousetrap can even be located in different rooms. One crane can be connected to cables from two "mousetraps" installed in different rooms. The system will react when one of them is triggered.

The cables should have no more than one bend at an angle of 90 ° and a length of no more than 2 m.

Ball valves made by powder metallurgy are on the market, with which there can be many problems - their bodies often crack. Such taps cannot be used at all, especially in my system, where they overlap automatically. I myself only use brass taps. In addition, to prevent the taps from sticking, they must be closed and opened once a month, otherwise, over time, they begin to close very tightly.

When setting up and adjusting the system, I used a device made from a piece of pipe (a little over 20 cm long) with a ball valve screwed onto it. On this device, it is easy to check the operation of the entire mechanism before installing it in the apartment. It also comes in handy when drilling holes for joining parts # 2 and 2a. To do this, you need to clamp these parts in a vice with a pipe previously inserted between them. After that, you can drill holes in two parts at once.

The blank for the base of the device can be taken longer than indicated, and after adjustment, the excess part of the bar can be cut off. In many ways, the length of the bar will depend on the length and elasticity of the selected spring. In the extended state, the spring force should be about 10 kg, at the end of operation - 4.5 kg. A constant force of 1 to 1.5 kg must act on the paper tape (another value can be envisaged, but then the angle of 93 ° will have to be changed). I used a household spring balance to measure the force.

I tested the mechanism in the bathroom. When I wetted the paper tape, everything worked properly - the ball valve was automatically closed.

After the mechanism is triggered, wipe it with a napkin and only then refuel with fresh tape.

Today I want to tell you about how you can make a homemade water faucet ...

To begin with, I bring to your attention a video of our homemade product:

In this article, I want to tell you how you can make a homemade water tap at home without making any special efforts using improvised means ... This device can be used in the country or in the garage ... for example, wash your hands or rinse out some small container ...

So, let's begin...

In order to make this water faucet we need the following:
- canister or unnecessary container (preferably at least 5 liters);
- a small piece of hose;
- syringe;
- drill and drill ...

So, first, carefully cut off the top of the syringe as shown in the photo ...

Next, using a drill and a small drill, we make 3-4 holes along the entire syringe ...

Now, with the help of a drill and drills, we make a hole at the bottom of our canister or other container of your choice ... The hole in diameter should match the diameter of the hose ... Next, carefully insert a piece of the hose into the hole in the canister ... Make sure that everything is hermetically ...

Now we insert a syringe into the hose and also make sure that everything is sealed ...

Well, that's the principle and that's it! Our device is ready !!! Now we pour water into the canister, substitute the bowl and see what we have done ...

With a piston in the syringe, we regulate the water supply: if you pull out the piston slightly, then water will flow from one hole ...

If you pull it a little more, then water will come from two holes at the same time ...

And so, as you protrude the syringe plunger, you will regulate the water supply, that is, if the plunger is pushed out all the way, the water will "go" from four holes in the syringe barrel, which we did, and if "push the piston back", then the water will stop "going" at all ...
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After the creation of a wood heating system, which consists of a stove with two heat exchangers, a heat storage tank and an expansion tank, it was decided to automate the operation of the system. The system can be automated using room thermostats and motorized ball valves. The price of shop cranes with drives kills on the spot - 2-2.5 thousand UAH for 3/4 or 1 inch of faucets. The idea of creating an electric actuator for existing ball valves on the system has been walking in my head for a long time. And so I started to create, and even tried to modernize. But so far, the modernization has failed. I am spreading the first working version of the drive for the 1 "crane.

The main part of the electric drive is the motor-gearbox of the window regulator of the car 1117, 1118, 1119, 2123 left LSA.

Auxiliary parts for the drive, which also need to be purchased, are two 5-contact 12-volt automotive relays, 2 automotive limit switches, clamps for a pipe, 3/4 in diameter. A pair of М8х45 bolts and nuts. The rest is small things that will be visible in the photo during the assembly process.

So, we proceed to the manufacture of the frame-frame for the drive and the mechanism that transfers rotation to the ball valve stem. The mechanism must have a break so that the crane can be operated manually. The bed is made of 1 mm thick sheet metal. We attach the window regulator motor to the frame through homemade bushings from a tube of 10 mm in diameter. We attach the frame to the pipe on which the ball valve is installed through bolts and clamps. We get just such a construction

Next, we make parts for the transmission mechanism. By the way, the length of the bolts to the clamps took into account the dimensions of the future parts of the transmission mechanism. Parts from 10x10 square pipe, 1/2 inch pipe and 4 mm metal strip. A 10 mm washer and a spring of a suitable size are also taken. Made with a grinder, engraver, drill, file and welding!

We collect in a heap and get the construction -

The mechanism has an engagement that can be removed by clicking on the parts like this -

The mechanism works. Now you need to install these limit switches with the ability to adjust their position. To do this, we make fasteners for end switches from plastic.

When I tried to turn on the motor with such limit switches, problems arose - the limit switch lost contact, then the contact resumed again, sparked on the limit switch, the motor twitched in place. This will not work. It was decided to install microswitches that click when opened. Mikriki in one word. We buy mikriki and start fixing them.
--- added: 11 ber 2016 at 23:34 ---
Mikrik 3 amperes and mounts mikrik are visible in the photo

I also drew up an electrical diagram for connecting parts.

We fix the mikriki in place, we assemble the drive according to the electrical diagram.

The drive has two output connection blocks - PSU - power supply unit and T - thermostat (you can use a room thermostat, or you can just a water heating thermostat).
For now, instead of a thermostat, I will use a conventional toggle switch that opens or closes the contact, while the drive either closes the tap or opens it.

I mount the drive on an already installed crane 1 "

I connect a homemade 12 volt power supply and test it - everything works. And in manual mode too. I'm filming a video. The actuator closes very quickly - 1 sec. This is his disadvantage. It has enough power to close the 1 "tap. Watch the video.

I already found the housing for the drive, but did not have time to install it, since I came up with a drive with a different geared motor. To test another motor, I disassembled this drive AND used the existing frame. But more on that later. And therefore, for now, there is a photo with the nickname with the disassembled parts of the above-described drive, and on the bed there is another drive.

--- added: 11 ber 2016 at 23:35 ---
I want to note - the cost of parts for the above-described drive is about 400 UAH! Unlike ready-made store cranes with drives that cost UAH 2000-2500 there is a tangible difference!