How to insulate a cellar from the inside from freezing. Technology of floor insulation with expanded clay Warming with expanded clay of underground parking

Warming the foundation with expanded clay is a common, affordable and natural way to protect the base of a cottage from external influences. Fired clay pellets have been in use for decades and have proven effective in a wide variety of situations.

With proper and competent use, such insulation can increase the life of a house for a very long period, preserve the structure of the building, and reduce the impact of external forces. We will talk about all this in our article.

InnovaStroy specialists also use this classic way insulation, as a separate type of thermal protection, and in combination with more modern materials... At the same time, a very careful and comprehensive calculation of the consumption of expanded clay is carried out so that the work carried out is not only effective, but economically profitable and not very labor-intensive. Based on the design properties, foundation device price per m3 will vary, depending on the type of base, the degree of insulation, the creation of basements and basements. At the same time, the question of the rational use of finance is always one of the main issues when creating documentation.

Warming the foundation of a house with expanded clay: the reasons for its popularity

Natural materials have always been used for thermal protection of the foundations of houses for various purposes, especially after it became known that very heavy losses occur precisely through the foundation and soil. The search for an effective remedy led to the fact that expanded clay was very quickly adapted to perform the functions of a heater, in which its physical and technical properties played a significant role.

Insulation of the foundation with expanded clay is incredibly popular to this day, even despite the peculiarities of laying and the need to purchase a large amount of material. The reasons for this choice are more than obvious:

Material availability- its price is quite low, which allows you to purchase the required volumes of insulation for construction;
Naturalness- completely natural components provide safety for the soil and the foundation itself. The material does not react with chemical and organic matter, does not emit harmful substances into the soil and atmosphere;
High heat and sound insulation- due to the presence of cavities with air in the structure, the material reduces heat transfer between rooms and external environment... When laying the insulation between the granules, cavities also appear, which further increase the thermal protection functions;
Not subject to any influence- Expanded clay is not susceptible to mold, fungal formations, rotting. Expanded clay is not attractive to rodents, insects and other pests, which is very good for foundations;
Strong and durable- expanded clay does not change its properties over time, retains its original specifications... But provided that its filling was carried out in accordance with all the rules, which are necessarily taken into account by our specialists in the design and construction;
Ease of use- not the last factor influencing the popularity of expanded clay. The material is light enough and can be handled with conventional tools such as shovels. Backfilling can be carried out either directly into the trenches from the machine, or as a sequential process using manual work and a wheelbarrow.

Warming the foundation of the house with expanded clay: inside and outside

One of the reasons why this material is recognized as one of the most effective methods of thermal insulation is its wide range of applications. Expanded clay is used so often in large quantities, which is considered one of better ways protection of the foundations of cottages.

Insulation of the foundation with expanded clay outside

The creation of a protective contour outside the boundaries of the base of the cottage is the most common and most effective method of insulation for country house, since it has certain advantages that contribute to the creation of multi-layered protection. Expanded clay, backfilled in trenches, provides:

Preservation of foundation structures from external negative influences - the material removes excess moisture from the soil, and in symbiosis with the drainage system allows you to create an effective means of combating heaving;
Provides thermal insulation of the underground part of the house, since expanded clay has a very low rate of heat transfer;
Absorbs the effect of pushing and tipping forces, which will surely affect any foundation. A layer of expanded clay absorbs all external loads, both from the soil and from the cottage. By spraying directed forces, he completely neutralizes them and, as a result, the structure of the house is practically not subject to external influences;
Provides reliable protection from rodents, insects and does not spread any vegetation inside itself, since baked clay is not the best environment for biological forms.

Insulation of the foundation with expanded clay from the outside: features

The material has certain requirements for technological process... Considering all the advantages of the material, you need to remember about rational use - for example, when creating a basement space and a basement floor, it makes no sense to fill in a full-fledged layer of expanded clay, which will be quite expensive, since a very large volume of raw materials is required. It is much easier to make insulation from polyurethane foam / expanded polystyrene, and then create a layer of expanded clay about 20-30 centimeters wide. Thus, the thermal insulation characteristics will be high enough so as not to insulate the floors of the floors and not to create a thick inner layer of finishing.

With a shallow foundation of a strip or slab type, a layer of expanded clay should be created, based on the required characteristics of thermal insulation. The specialists of InnovaStroy recommend creating trenches with a width of 60 to 80 centimeters. It is not worth doing less, since the material will not be able to provide the required level of insulation, and if more, then there will be a useless excess consumption of expanded clay, which does not in any way affect the quality of thermal protection.

When calculating the backfill, you need to remember about:

Shrinkage of the material - to provide a sufficient margin for subsequent backfilling;
Waterproofing of the bottom and sides of the trench - carried out with ordinary polyethylene or thin layers of a waterproofing agent;
Creation of the upper blind area of concrete, which prevents the penetration of moisture from the atmosphere.

Turnkey pile foundation cost in InnovaStroy does not include the possibility of using expanded clay insulation, since it is useless to use it for supports, and the grillage parts are easier to sheathe with any other materials. Other types of foundations can be perfectly insulated with expanded clay, subject to the technology and backfill rules.

Important! Expanded clay is capable of absorbing large volumes of water and retaining it, therefore it is not recommended for use on marshy soils, in soils with a close location of the aquifer, with a predisposition to waterlogging. Ensuring waterproofing of the expanded clay layer is a prerequisite, without which all insulation work will be completely useless.

Insulation of the foundation with expanded clay from the inside

One of the options for using the material when it is not possible to carry out work outside the building, or the owner wants to create a more powerful and reliable thermal protection circuit. Let's make a reservation right away that, according to the experience of our specialists, it can be argued that internal insulation with expanded clay is carried out only in shallow strip foundations. Only in this case it is possible to create more or less optimal conditions under the floor of the first floor. In other cases, the internal backfill will not lead to an improvement in the characteristics of the building, but will only give it even more weight.

It is also worth remembering that for elite mansions and houses with a spatial layout, where the foundation occupies a very large area, internal insulation is not very cost-effective. Imagine all the volumes that will have to be filled up to the floor level of the first floor so that there is no free space left - this will be colossal costs. Our experts recommend using expanded clay internal insulation on very strong rocky soils, at a depth strip foundation up to 60 centimeters, for houses that in the plan will not occupy a large space, somewhere up to dimensions of 15x15 meters. What is convenient for narrow areas or during construction in cottage townships with dense buildings.

Thermal insulation of strip foundation with expanded clay

The most common type of base has a variety of options for protecting its structure and providing thermal insulation. As mentioned above, with such a design of the base of the cottage, it makes sense to carry out full-fledged insulation with expanded clay when the structure is shallow. If the height of the underground part of the house is about 1.2-1.5 meters, then it is better to choose a combined method - polyurethane foam / reinforcing mesh / expanded clay backfill. This will be more efficient and cost effective.

At standard height a foundation of 60-80 centimeters can be backfilled with purified expanded clay around the perimeter of the building, subject to all the rules for creating a heat-shielding layer. The cost of the strip foundation in InnovaStroy is calculated on the basis of the insulation material you have chosen. It includes - the very process of calculating and creating documentation; purchase of expanded clay from a trusted supplier; excavation, waterproofing and drainage; backfill and organization of the blind area.

Insulation of a monolithic foundation with expanded clay

This method of protecting the slab base of your country cottage has very high efficiency, since concrete in its mass is already a fairly reliable obstacle to intensive heat exchange with the ground. Creation of expanded clay insulation around the perimeter allows you to further protect the structure and, acting as a pillow, dissipate external forces that invariably act on the slab base of the house.

Price of a monolithic foundation for a house with expanded clay insulation does not differ much from the base cost. There are several reasons for this - the material itself, in comparison with the volume of concrete used, is very cheap; not so much expanded clay is needed - a layer of 30-60 centimeters is enough for a monolithic base to be provided with an appropriate level of protection from external influences.

Foreword... Consider in this article important question for owners apartment buildings with underground parking or those who wish to purchase a place in the underground parking. Should the developer insulate the underground parking, why is it necessary and what kind of insulation should be used for the parking.

In a modern city, residential and office buildings are often equipped with underground parking. This construction saves space in the urban infrastructure and is very convenient for car owners, allowing them to leave their car in a guarded parking lot. However, not all developers pay attention to the insulation of parking lots, which gives rise to some problems for homeowners and management companies.

Why it is necessary to insulate the parking

Such parking lots are located below the freezing depth of the soil, have closed space and gates, so the air in the parking lot has a positive temperature. Therefore, it is necessary to use insulation for parking lots. In unheated parking lots, the walls are insulated so that condensation does not appear on them, in addition, it is necessary to make and high-quality waterproofing walls and roofs of the structure.

The construction estimate does not always include the cost of warming the parking lot. And no one will argue with the need to insulate a heated parking lot, since this procedure will protect structures from freezing and condensation. In addition, the insulation of concrete walls and, most importantly, of the roof, will reduce heat loss at home and the costs of residents. apartment building for general house needs.

Professional insulation of parking lots

The lack of insulation leads to the fact that subsequently the owner of the structure has to hire specialists to carry out thermal insulation works in the parking lot. The prices for services cannot be called low. But the cost of insulation for unheated parking lots is justified. Modern parking, especially underground, definitely needs thermal insulation.

A layer of thermal insulation will ensure that there is no condensation on the walls during temperature changes. In addition, a layer of thermal insulation will help reduce noise from vehicles in the living area of the building. High-quality and professional insulation of underground parking (heated and unheated) provides for a number of activities.

The main stages of parking insulation

1. Installation of thermal insulation for the roof of the heated parking lot.
2. Thermal insulation of the walls from the outside (with expanded polystyrene or expanded polystyrene).
3. Finishing of the heat-insulating layer with finishing materials for facades.

Insulation for unheated parking lots

Unheated parking arrangement

Insulation of unheated and heated parking is carried out using foam concrete, stone or mineral wool slabs, followed by waterproofing and other modern insulating materials. It is recommended to carry out work in a warm and dry time of the year. And the installation of insulation in an underground car park should be trusted only by qualified specialists.

Not all firms are capable of insulating underground parking with high quality. The use of the wrong technologies and inappropriate insulation for heated parking lots can lead to the fact that everything will have to be redone after a while. V ideal option you should order the design of the parking lot in order to avoid problems with the subsequent heat and moisture insulation.

Regardless of which insulation you prefer - penoplex (can be used in soil due to its strength and low absorbency) or stone wool (requires the creation of a vapor barrier layer that protects the insulation from getting wet), you need to take care of waterproofing concrete structures... Penetron penetrating waterproofing should be used to protect concrete from moisture.

Heat loss in a dwelling is mostly due to poor thermal insulation of the roof, that is, the lack of insulation in the attic is a well-known and indisputable fact. Therefore, every householder, when building a house, must definitely take care of this issue, otherwise, when winter comes, the whole warm air will leave the house through an uninsulated roof according to the laws of physics.

Of course, when solving this issue, you need to choose what insulate the roof of your house, but there is plenty to choose from. Today in the construction industry, different heat insulators are used: sawdust, mineral wool, polystyrene, extruded polystyrene foam and other materials.

Expanded clay - ideal insulation for the attic

In all this variety of heaters, most developers often prefer expanded clay as a material that is affordable, environmentally friendly and reliable.

What is expanded clay

Round porous granules, consisting of exclusively from baked clay, and there is expanded clay - very light and effective insulation... It is popular in housing construction due to its positive parameters:

health safety;
the ability to isolate noise;
cold resistance;
fire safety;
cheapness;
high performance;
ease of use.

Undoubtedly, the insulation of the attic is preferable to do in the process of building a house. This process is easy to perform if you have all the necessary for this materials and tools, and is available for self-fulfillment any householder.

Warming with expanded clay must be done according to the mind

What is needed to insulate an attic with expanded clay?

For quick and high-quality work on the thermal insulation of the attic, we prepare the following materials:

insulation (expanded clay of several fractions);
vapor barrier material;
backfill clay;
scotch tape or stapler for fixing the vapor barrier;
cement-sand mixture.

We use expanded clay of different fractions to avoid the formation of voids, which will lead to better insulation. A vapor barrier material is needed to isolate the insulation from moisture rising from the room with air and condensation forming on the ceiling from temperature difference... Clay is filled in for better laying of expanded clay. A densely diluted cement-sand mixture fixes the entire heat-insulating layer.

Expanded clay - the best insulation for attic spaces

The procedure for self-execution of thermal insulation

We lay a vapor barrier material, which can be used as roofing material, "Izospan" or ordinary polyethylene. In this case, we take into account that if covered area is larger than average, the material is laid in overlapping strips with subsequent gluing at the joints.
Fall asleep and evenly level the layer of crushed clay.
Thoroughly mix expanded clay of different fractions and scatter it evenly, with a thickness of about 12-15 cm (this is the recommendation of specialists in an average value).
Lastly, we make a screed using a thickly diluted solution from cement-sand mixture and give it time to dry and harden so that you can easily walk around the attic.
Your further actions depend on what are your plans for using the attic space. If you plan to use the attic to store some things or materials, then it is enough just to lay boards or plywood on top of the screed, nailing them to the beams... If your plans go further, and you want to use the attic as a living space and are thinking of equipping an attic, then you need more topcoat like linoleum, laminate or any other.

However, in either case, the quality of the thermal insulation you have performed will remain unchanged, and therefore, heat will remain in the house.

If you have a cellar, and the temperature in the cold season drops in it below the maximum mark, then you need to seriously deal with the insulation of the room. It may seem that this procedure is very complicated, but in fact, all work can take no more than one day (this is with lunch and rest breaks).

Insulated cellar

How to insulate a cellar from the inside from freezing:

Naturally, to complete such a task, you need to stock up on a certain set of tools. In particular, you will need a tape measure (you can also use a regular folding rule), a cutter (the teeth should be as large as possible), nails and a hammer, insulation (it is better to use specially protected glass wool), protective equipment(mask, gloves), scotch tape, polyethylene and strong thread (nylon or nylon).

Once everything is ready, you can start working. As a heater, it is better to use a material that is in a special lining. This is due not only to the ease of installation, but also to the increased efficiency of such heaters. It is best if the outer covering of the thermal insulation layer has protective film preventing the vaporization process. But this is true if other heaters are installed. Special attention you need to pay to the direction of the film, which should be turned towards the ceiling.

In order to properly insulate the room, the material must be cut into small panels so that they are slightly wider than the interval between the beams (this depends on the basement design). You need to make the same stock along the length.

If there is any kind of switching in the basement, for example, electrical wiring, then it is advisable to lay all wires and cable products in special non-combustible boxes or casings (the use of a metal armored sleeve is often justified). This approach will eliminate the likelihood of contact between the insulation and electrical wiring, and, therefore, reduce the likelihood of a fire.

Cellar insulation scheme

In the event that there are any obstacles in the room, then they should be bypassed by cutting the insulation. It is best to do so that the insulation is solid. At the same time, no voids, which would not be filled with insulation, should not remain.

You also need to consider how to attach the insulation to the ceiling. In most cases, the pressure that is created between the beams and the material itself is sufficient (a small margin was left during the cutting process). If the calculations fail, then you can stretch strong threads across the beams, which will hold the heat-insulating material well.

The floor covering must be insulated with polyethylene. In this case, the cut canvases must be fastened together with adhesive tape. For greater reliability, it is advisable to press down the edges of the panel with bricks. This approach will eliminate the ingress of moisture into basement... Consequently, there will be less moisture in the living rooms, which are located directly above the basement.

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When to choose expanded clay
Preparation is an important step
Methods of floor insulation with expanded clay
Recommendations when using expanded clay
Which waterproofing to choose

Expanded clay successfully copes with many tasks in construction and repair. More often it is used when installing the floor for heat and sound insulation, however, the strength, durability and low cost of the material are also used for insulating ceilings and walls.

How to insulate a cellar from the inside from freezing

Expanded clay as floor insulation can be used in different options: as part of a sand-cement screed or as a dry backfill. Versatile material does not leave competitors a chance - it is used for the construction of subfloors on any bases: concrete, wood and even on the ground.

The choice in favor of expanded clay is made by fans of natural materials, because expanded clay contains no chemical ingredients. This is an absolutely natural material, it is harmless to health, as it is produced from clay by firing.

Under the influence of temperature (1000 ° C), the clay acquires a porous structure, and the rolling technology in the kiln drum gives the material the shape of rounded fragments, which are convenient to work with and form the required layer thickness in the floor sandwich.

When to choose expanded clay

The range of heat-insulating materials on the modern market is so large that it is difficult to stop at any one. However, it is worth knowing the whole complex of properties of this unique material to understand what is not better option, except for insulating the floor with expanded clay.

The list of properties due to which this simple material is leading among competitors:

Low thermal conductivity - the porous material contains air bubbles, which provide high-quality thermal insulation. A layer of expanded clay 10 cm surpasses a similar wooden surface in terms of thermal conductivity by 3 times, and brickwork by 10 times.
Soundproofing - a property in demand in apartments multi-storey buildings, the expanded clay floor will serve as a reliable barrier to the penetration of noise from neighbors below, while preventing the propagation of sounds in the opposite direction.
The strength of the material allows it to be used in the lower layer of the floor cake without additional supporting structures (expanded clay is produced in different strength grades from 250 to 600).
Resistance to decay and fungi, mold (unlike wood-based materials) increases the service life of the floor, its durability.
Chemical inertness - expanded clay is a natural material, does not emit any substances in environment as well as itself resistant to chemicals.
Heat resistance - quality is relevant in terms of fire safety.
Frost resistance - expanded clay does not lose its properties at extremely low temperatures.
Low weight - allows you to insulate the floor with expanded clay under the screed in houses where a large load on the floors is undesirable (read: "We do floor insulation under the screed - practical advice").
The granular fraction of the material ensures the convenience of working with it - one person who does not have construction skills can handle the filling.
Low cost is an additional bonus for a material with a set of excellent qualities.

The only drawback of expanded clay is its ability to keep moisture for a long time.

This drawback can be easily leveled, observing the technology of flooring with expanded clay, carefully gluing the waterproofing layer.

Preparation is an important step

Preparation of the base for backfill with expanded clay begins with cleaning the surface.

A clean base is evaluated for curvature and flatness differences. This is done in order to see what layer of expanded clay is needed for floor insulation, leveling the surface and calculating the required amount of material.

The optimal layer thickness is 80 - 100 mm, to determine the required amount of granules, a mark is made on the wall to a height of 8 cm at the highest point of the room, from which a horizontal line is then marked with a level along the perimeter of the room.

The average value of the filling height is obtained by measuring the distance to the horizontal line in several places, which is then divided by the number of measurements. So, if three measurements were made with values of 10, 15, 8 cm, then the average height of the backfill will be (10 + 15 + 8): 3 = 11 cm. Then the area of the room (width x length) is multiplied by the height (average value) obtained the figure indicates how much expanded clay is needed to insulate the floor of this room.

The actual preparation is reduced to the following actions:

Sealing cracks, potholes with mortar (for concrete floors).
Base waterproofing.
To do this, use any available technologies and materials: special mastic, preparation of waterproofing mortar from polymer dry mixes. If the floor is insulated with expanded clay on the ground, then optimal solution will polyethylene film(no thinner than 100 microns) or roll material (roofing felt). See also: "How to make a warm floor on the ground - a step-by-step guide."
The device of beacons - metal profiles are set according to the level and fixed with a solution.

Note: beacons are not needed (p.

3), if dry insulation of the floor with expanded clay is carried out along the logs of the old floor, which do not plan to dismantle, but are going to use for flooring a new wooden covering

Methods of floor insulation with expanded clay

There are several ways to insulate and level the floor with expanded clay. The choice is made based on the features:

Surfaces;
Permissible load on the base;
Appointments of the premises.

So, dry expanded clay pillow is lighter than expanded clay screed of similar thickness.

The thermal insulation properties of dry expanded clay are also higher, but the surface strength and the ability to withstand loads are better in expanded clay concrete floors, arranged by the "wet" method of preparing a solution.

Dry backfill for wood floors

Wooden floors are laid on logs - horizontal bars. If, in the process of dismantling the old wooden floor, it turned out that the logs are well preserved and do not require replacement, then you should not remove them, adding more work to yourself.

In this case, it is easier to insulate the floor with expanded clay on the logs.

For this, waterproofing is placed in the intervals between the logs. Then a layer of expanded clay is poured onto which a foil vapor barrier is laid. For additional heat on top, you can put another layer of another insulation (polystyrene, expanded polystyrene) flush with the upper edge of the log.

Then a wooden floor is laid, the slats of which are nailed to the logs. See also: "Floor insulation in a wooden house from below - how to make and what to use."

If it is planned to completely dismantle the wooden floor and install a concrete screed, for subsequent finishing with a decorative coating (tiles, laminate), you should take care of the lighthouses.

Without the correct alignment of the guides, you will not get the level surface required for flooring. A layer of dry expanded clay is spilled with cement milk to fix the granules. After the milk has hardened, the surface is leveled along the beacons with a cement-sand mortar.

Since it is not always possible to insulate the floor with expanded clay sufficiently (in cold regions when laying on the ground), an additional layer of foam insulation is included in the floor cake.

Styrofoam sheets are glued to the expanded clay pillow and covered with a screed (read: "Floor insulation with foam plastic under the screed - installation instructions").

A similar technology is used for floor insulation and soundproofing in apartments with concrete foundations.

A prerequisite is high ceilings. If the house has low ceilings, then a layer of expanded clay with a screed will make them even lower, which will affect the comfort of living. In this case, it is better to consider options with other materials, which are likely to cost more, but will not steal space.

Dry and fast method - clean work

The ease of laying such a floor allows you to make it yourself and quickly. Ideal for an apartment in multi-storey building, since the weight of the structure is small, mixing of the screed solution is not required.

Operating procedure:

Free the floor from debris and dust.
Lay a waterproofing layer. If the waterproofing is of a liquid, flowing consistency (mastic, cement-polymer mortar), then cracks and cracks are first covered up to prevent fluid from flowing into the floors.
Beacons are installed.
Expanded clay is poured, along the way it is thoroughly rammed.
Plywood sheets (chipboard, OSB) are laid in two layers.
The first layer is fastened together with glue, the second is screwed to the lower canvases with self-tapping screws.

The dry base of such a floor is suitable for finishing with any decorative coating: from linoleum to laminate.

Expanded clay is produced in several strength classes and 4 types of granule sizes, so inexperienced home craftsmen often ask: "What expanded clay is better for floor insulation?" In order to provide the floor with the best protection from the cold.

You should be aware that despite the fact that the heat-saving qualities are higher for expanded clay of a coarse fraction, a dry screed must be mounted from a mixture of material with different dimensions.

This will provide a solid base in which small granules fill the space between large ones, provide a dense and durable coating... For apartments, medium (1 - 2 cm) and fine gravel (0.5 - 1 cm) are usually used.

Floor installation with expanded clay concrete screed

Expanded clay as a floor insulation in a wooden house has no competitors due to its versatility.

It can be used as an additive in cement-sand screed for the device of a concrete floor in outbuildings: a garage, a bathhouse. Unlike a dry base, expanded clay concrete screed has increased strength, wear resistance while maintaining good thermal insulation properties.

Floor device " wet method"Consists in the fact that the surface prepared in the usual way is laid out water solution made from sand, cement, expanded clay (ratio 2: 1: 3). As it is laid out, the screed is "slapped" with a heavy floor polisher or a special rammer.

This will allow you to get a flat surface without roughness formed by protruding expanded clay granules.

Nuances that you need to know when insulating a floor with expanded clay with your own hands:

If the priority is the heat-saving effect, then dry expanded clay is used.
A dry pillow keeps you warm better.
The technology for performing the dry method depends on which layer of expanded clay for floor insulation is sufficient in specific conditions. If the thickness of the pillow is large (more than 10 cm), then it is worth pouring two layers, dividing them with sheets of gypsum board.
plywood, etc. This design will provide stability to the coating.
To fix the beacons, gypsum or alabaster can be added to the solution - this will speed up the setting and allow you to start filling expanded clay immediately after setting the guides.
Use of granules different sizes provides better grip and therefore greater strength.
Reinforcement with a metal mesh of the expanded clay layer increases the reliability and strength of the structure.
The expanded clay-concrete screed reaches its final strength in 4 weeks, so you should not expose it to excessive loads immediately, despite the fact that it solidifies literally on the second day.

Warming a wooden floor with expanded clay or leveling a concrete base in an apartment with your own hands will save money.

They can be used on an expensive decorative coating, which will become an interior decoration and a great backdrop for home photos and videos.

Which waterproofing to choose

The price range of materials in this category is as wide as their variety:

Bituminous mastics;
Polymer mixtures;
Rubber hydro-barriers;
Polyethylene film;
Roll materials of various compositions.

When choosing a waterproofing that matches your financial capabilities, it is worth remembering that:

Liquid mixes and mastics require a clean and solid foundation, and sometimes priming.
After all, they must form a reliable adhesion to the surface.
Roll materials are laid freely, therefore they are indispensable for waterproofing expanded clay, laid on the ground. It is necessary to ensure that the strips overlap at least 10 cm; for some types of waterproofing of this group, manufacturers recommend gluing the edges of the strips superimposed on each other. See also: "How to make claydite floors with your own hands."

Silica gel granules are another waterproofing option.

It is scattered in a thin layer (1 cm) under expanded clay or mixed with dry backfill at the rate of 1 to 10. An excellent absorbent is not popular because of its flammability, chemical composition, and explosiveness.

However, under certain conditions (thick floor cake with reliable barrier for silica gel vapors) the method has a right to exist.

Our cellar is located in a separate barn.

How to insulate a cellar with polystyrene foam?

Walls - bricks and blocks, on the ceiling - reinforced concrete floor, it’s the floor in the barn. The trouble is that in cold weather condensation and frost appear on the ceiling, vegetables, it turns out, freeze slightly. How to insulate the cellar faster and more easily?

O. Meshcheryakov Chelyabinsk Region

The reinforced concrete ceiling of the cellar must be laid out slab insulation... It can be laid along the walls of the cellar from the outside, digging them out to the depth of freezing of the soil, this is quite laborious. Another option is to dig in the insulation horizontally by about 1 m on each side close to the walls.

Which, of course, is more difficult. I would recommend making slab thermal insulation from poly-sterol concrete slabs 150-200 mm thick, but not more, raising, of course, the floor in the utility block. But since polystyrene concrete (as well as foam, which can also be used to insulate the cellar) has a relatively low structural strength, the wooden floor above the insulation is mounted so that there is no pressure on the heat-insulating layer.

If you decide to use Styrofoam, take steps to keep mice out of it; they can quickly turn the Styrofoam into a pile of useless crumbs.

It is also possible to use insulating aerated concrete slabs of the same thickness.

However, it should be remembered that cellular concrete, as a rule, are hygroscopic, intensively absorb moisture, including from the air, while losing heat-shielding properties. Therefore, they must be very carefully and reliably waterproofed.

And one more thing: I do not advise using slag or glass wool as a heater. It will quickly damp, thicken and completely lose its heat-shielding properties.

You also need to take care of good ventilation.

If it is, then check and clean it. If not, then do it in such a way that there would be two pipes leading out of the cellar, one at the floor level, the second near the ceiling. Thus, the air does not stagnate in the cellar, the temperature is the same, all the moisture evaporates.

O. Meshcheryakov Chelyabinsk Region

A. ANDREEV (Maksimych), builder

Nowadays, when you find canned food and fresh vegetables at any time of the year on the shelves, the basement no longer plays like this important role... However, many are trying to preserve the crops harvested on their own private land, stock up more for the winter and thus provide the home with a good and dry basement.

For long-term storage of vegetables, it is important that the basement does not have high humidity and the temperature is maintained at the level of 2-5 degrees.

In addition, the basement is protected from rodents. Think about how to properly insulate the basement and can the exterior be done?

There are several options for equipping the basement.

Basement heating located in the basement

The basement is planned to be installed in the basement of a house under construction.

In this case, the waterproofing of the walls and floor, as well as the heating of the foundation walls, must be taken into account during the construction phase. To keep everything in order, make sure that the groundwater does not rise above the basement floor every spring (ask the neighbors who have already built it).

In any case, firstly, the walls are treated with a waterproofing compound, and the upper part is covered with foam or expanded polystyrene.

The advantages of foam include its resistance to mold, mildew, and decay.

It also has many technical advantages: easy to handle, layout, very attractive price. The disadvantages include its "powerlessness" against rodents.

If it was built in the basement, but was not properly insulated during the construction phase and now starts to cry, the best solution is to insulate it from the outside. Someone will exclaim: "But this is a lot of work!" Yes, digging basement walls takes a lot of soil, then wait for the brick or concrete to burn, then warm up.

But only in this way can you achieve the greatest effect.

However, if the heater is attached to the inside, the outside wall brick wall exposed to freezing or water. After breaking the brick, water will still fall into the basement. If the walls are insulated from the outside, they do not freeze, the dew point remains in the area of the insulation.

The part of the insulating layer filled with soil is also covered with bituminous mastic, the one that is projected onto the base is covered with plaster or other suitable materials.

Characteristics of the insulation of the foundation and the foundation from the inside

This also needs to be done in a timely manner around the perimeter of the built house in order to make them blind. This will not only be convenient and beautiful, but also protect the foundation of the house from water entry, from drowning.

Basement basement warming

If the plot size and level groundwater allow, it is more expedient to build a basement separately from the house. Because its upper part can, for example, be used as landscape design like an alpine hill.

How to insulate the basement if there is condensation?

A common cause of condensation is poor waterproofing of the ceiling or arch over the stairs.

As you know, the temperature of the earth at a depth of three meters completely keeps the temperature plus, constant throughout the year.

This is a property that has always been used by farmers who have stored supplies in underground benches. For heating the foundation from above, peat was the most commonly used because it heats up the heat better and rodents do not want to sit in it. Safe warehouses on the stairs were made on a floor of 40-50 cm, the basement was only 2-3 meters from the ground. This provided the optimum temperature for storing vegetables.

However, if the surface of the blocks is not waterproof, there is the possibility of water flowing out of the water.

In such cases, experts recommend the following activities. The floor must be removed to clean brick (concrete) surfaces. Prepare them with a mixture of bitumen and diesel fuel (1: 3), then use two layers of hot bitumen on top.

The cheapest insulation method would be to use sawdust-cement coating.

The sawdust is moistened with water, mixed with cement (the ratio is one part of cement and 8 parts of sawdust), placed in a layer of 30-40 cm and compressed well.

A few days later, when the mixture is dried, a cement screed is prepared from cement and sand (1: 4) and applied to a layer of 2.5 cm. To prevent freezing of the corners of the foundation, 40 cm of insulation is used on all side walls.

Within four days, the screed will be ready to be covered with roofing material. By gluing the roofing paper with bitumen, you can fill the basement with the floor. The basement door should also be insulated.

And most importantly, don't forget about proper ventilation. The basement should have two pipes (for inflow and outflow).

20.1.2014 at 18:01

Each country cottage area has a storage room vegetables and conservation. In order for the products to be preserved for a long time, the cellar needs to be insulated.

This is often done during construction.

Today, as practice has shown, the owners are engaged in the insulation of the underground premises after long-term use.

After carrying out such work, the temperature and humidity in the cellar reaches a level at which the products will not spoil for a long time. This article will tell you in detail how to insulate a cellar from the inside.

Why do you need to insulate the cellar

No house is complete without an underground space, which is called a basement or cellar.

How and what is the insulation of basements carried out?

It is he who keeps fresh and canned food with high quality and for a long time.

If moisture accumulates there in the summer, then soon the vegetables will rot, and the walls in winter period covered with frost. Then, with the arrival of spring, moisture condenses on the surface.

Also, excess phlegm leads to the appearance of fungi and mold. To prevent all undesirable nuances, the insulation of the cellar is inevitable.

In general, basement insulation has many advantages:

Extend the life of the entire building;
Will strengthen the foundation;
Maintains the integrity of vegetables;
Prevents the appearance of fungi and mold;
Will protect the room from groundwater ingress.

As a rule, ready-made buildings are insulated, therefore it is necessary to select high-quality heat-insulating material.

The choice of insulation

The modern market provides a wide selection of heaters.

The buyer usually picks up a budget option... Thermal insulation material must be of high quality, reliable, meet all standards.

Also, qualitatively meet such requirements as: resistance to moisture, low thermal conductivity, light weight, convenient shapes and sizes, to serve as long as possible, to withstand soil pressure with high quality.

Among the options on construction market some insulation options can be noted:

Extruded polystyrene foam;
Mineral wool;
Styrofoam;
Penofol;
Glass wool;
Polyurethane foam.

Penoplex is considered one of the best.

He has all of the above qualities. The product is produced in the form of slabs, which are lightweight.

It is easy and convenient to work with them. Extruded polystyrene foam does not rot, preserves its qualities and properties for a long time. Sheets are conveniently cut without evaporating harmful substances.

Mineral wool also fits well. The rolls in which the material is wound are easy to fix on the walls. But the product has some nuances. When wet mineral wool loses its former shape, is capable of igniting.

Video tips:

Glass wool is similar in its properties to mineral wool.

It is made from thin glass fibers. When working with such material, you should be careful, small particles can get into the respiratory tract and mucous membranes of the eyes.

The advantage of glass wool is an affordable price

Polyfoam is not very suitable for warming the cellar from the inside.

Unlike foam, it absorbs moisture. This material is non-combustible, environmentally friendly, and has a minimal cost.

Polyurethane foam is ideal for thermal insulation of an underground room.

It is durable, durable, easy to cover the surface. It is convenient to close up inaccessible places on the wall with such material.

The polyurethane foam reaches a hard layer in 25 seconds. After work, the surface becomes perfectly flat, and the room is dry and comfortable.

This substance will require qualified styling, that is, it will be difficult to insulate the walls with it with your own hands.

The high price tag is too expensive for many consumers.

Preparatory work

Every construction activity will require careful preparation premises, tools, materials. To begin with, measure the area of the room. Then a sufficient amount of thermal insulation product is purchased.

Further, the floor and walls are leveled, removing irregularities. Walls, ceiling, floor are cleaned of dirt. If there are gaps on the surface, they are sealed with polyurethane foam or sealant.

The protrusions from these funds are removed with a knife.

One of the mandatory procedures before insulation is surface treatment from fungi. For this, the walls and ceiling are treated with antiseptics. Ventilation is desirable.

Installation sequence

After cleaning the surface, you can proceed to insulation.

If you do not know how to insulate the cellar from the inside, you should seek the help of a specialist or consult with the builders.

To begin with, carry out waterproofing. She will serve as roofing material or polyvinyl chloride film. Then the heat insulator is mounted. Styrofoam will become convenient and suitable.

Its thickness should be 5 cm.

A few drops of glue are applied to the plate and pressed to the surface. For reliability, the layer is fixed with special dowels. The joints are treated with construction foam.

After that, the insulated walls are greased with glue and the mesh is laid. After complete drying, the result is sanded with appropriate tools.

Video to help:

In the cellar there will be optimum temperature(+ 3-4 degrees) for high-quality storage of vegetables.

The walls will always be dry, free of mold, moisture and dampness. In the process of work, the main thing is to observe the technology of installation of insulation.

Insulation of the cellar from the inside

Fedor Bogdanovich, Moscow asks the question: We recently moved to a private house, we store vegetables in a cellar on the street. I noticed that his door freezes when it's cold outside (below -15 degrees). Tell someone how and how to insulate the cellar lid.

Good afternoon. If the cellar is on the street, it means that there should be insulation on the hatch, it is just that it has already worn out or in some place has been torn off or damaged.

See what material is used for insulation. It can be glass wool, foam plastic, mineral wool. On examination, you can find a place where you need to glue or replace the insulation in order to hold out until spring, when you can make a full repair of the hatch.

If the temperature in the region where you live is rarely below -15 ° C, then you can use cotton wool as protection from the cold.

In areas with lower temperatures, it is better to use polystyrene foam or polyurethane foam. Work must be done in spring in dry weather.

If the insulation on the hatch is old or does not correspond to the climate, then you must first remove it. To do this, you will need a putty knife, a plucker, and other tools that you may need to dismantle. Take the ones that you have and which are more convenient to use.

To insulate the hatch with your own hands, you will need directly insulation in rolls, tiles or aerosol, moisture-proof materials, a hammer and nails or screws and a drill, polyurethane foam, plywood sheet, wooden block, saw, tape measure.

Before insulating the cellar lid, you need to measure it with a tape measure and cut out the necessary parts from a bar, plywood and insulation (if foam). Then you need to attach the moisture protection. It can be polyethylene film, polyurethane foam (spray material).

In the country, personal plot or in the courtyard of an honest house they arrange a separate structure for storing vegetables, canning, winter preparations, twists and other things. Correct device the cellar assumes insulation, to create an optimal microclimate in the storage. The cellar and basement differ in a number of parameters, which means that the approach to their insulation for the winter will differ in several points.

What is the difference between a cellar and a basement

Basement- the room located under residential building... The key characteristic is the presence of indirect heating. In this case, during the heating period, the basement is much warmer than the cellar. In addition, communications are located in it. In this connection, the requirements for are stricter. Among other things, the basement ceiling is a serious source of heat loss from the heated rooms on the ground floor.

Cellar- an object located separately or under summer kitchen, garage, outbuildings. The temperature in it is more stable throughout the year, which means that preservation, vegetables or wine are stored much better.

This is what leads to the fact that in the presence of free space on the site, the owners strive to build a cellar on the street. And already during operation, the question invariably arises whether it is necessary to insulate the cellar. Indeed, from excess heat, vegetables will begin to wither and rot, and from a lack of heat, they will freeze.

Of course, it is better to carry out thermal insulation work during the construction of the cellar. But what about those who already have a cellar in the country. How to insulate a cellar from freezing without serious costs?

The choice of the method of insulation provides for work in one of the directions:

insulation of the cellar outside;
insulation of the cellar from the inside;
combined insulation. The most efficient way, because is complex.

Types of cellars for a private house

When deciding how to insulate the cellar from the inside or outside, first of all, the type of cellar is taken into account:

Separately standing room with deepening into the soil up to 0.5 m. It can be free-standing or wall-mounted (one of the walls of the cellar is the wall of an outbuilding or garage). From the point of view of insulation, this is the simplest option, since it is possible to insulate the walls and roof from the outside and from the inside.

Recessed cellar

The lowest point of the building is located at a depth of no more than 1.5 m from the ground surface. In this case, in addition to warming, one should also think about neutralizing the action of groundwater and frost heaving of the soil.

Underground (bulk) cellar

It is distinguished by the location of the floor at a level of 2-3 meters underground. With proper waterproofing, this is the most advantageous cellar from the point of view of operation, which perfectly keeps a positive temperature, approximately constant, throughout the year.

Despite the differences in construction, the design of the cellar does not differ in variety.

Standard cellar design:

walls - with dense soil - ground, with moving - brick or stone;
the floor is absent, or rather it is unpaved;
ceiling - reinforced concrete or wood.

Accordingly, the insulation of the ceiling, walls, floor is carried out. Those. all surfaces of the cellar through which heat loss is possible.

Materials for warming the cellar

Despite the significant variety of thermal insulation materials, it should be borne in mind that not all of them will work. The material for warming the cellar must have such properties as the ability to maintain geometry, withstand the pressure of water and soil, have high insulating properties (table), and absolute hygroscopicity.

For these reasons, mineral wool or ecowool is of little use for thermal insulation.

If you arrange the materials in descending order, then the following order will appear:

warming the cellar with foam... Most popular insulation... Indeed, in addition to thermal insulation characteristics, foam plastic is distinguished low price and ease of installation. Styrofoam does not rot, is not hygroscopic, biological inert, lightweight, does not require application vapor barrier films and arrangement of the lathing. Installed both outside and inside the premises;

warming the cellar with sawdust or peat soil that retain heat well and are unattractive to rodents;

warming the cellar with polyurethane foam... PPU refers to sprayed insulation. Possessing all the properties of its predecessors, it is distinguished by its incombustibility and the ability to fill the entire space (cracks, cracks). Polyurethane foam creates a shell, which is the most reliable way to insulate the cellars both from the outside and from the inside. At the same time, the cost of polyurethane foam is high, and application requires special equipment and the involvement of specialists;

warming the cellar with expanded polystyrene... Expanded polystyrene has all the characteristics of foam. It is distinguished only by a higher price, which is due to the higher density of the material, the integrity of the sheet structure (the ability not to crumble during installation), the presence of a groove-ridge installation system;

warming the cellar with expanded clay... Expanded clay, like any other bulk material, is distinguished by a limited scope of application. As a rule, it is used for floor insulation. Also it can be used for walls when external insulation underground (buried) cellar.

warming the cellar with black soil... Used for external insulation. In this case, the earth is poured onto the roof of the cellar. However, with the current level of technology development, there are many more effective methods of insulation while maintaining the absolute ecological cleanliness of the site.

Insulation technology depending on the type of cellar

Thermal insulation approach taking into account the structure of the building.

Insulation of a ground cellar

With this design, the main emphasis is on wall and roof insulation. So, it is best to do outdoor work and use foam or expanded polystyrene. Insulation works are carried out on the street, according to the technology of installation of these materials. The roof is insulated from the inside. For these works, soft or hard insulation can be used.

Insulation of a buried cellar

The walls of such a cellar are half buried in the ground. Hence, there is a risk of flooding. To level it, you need to free (open) the buried part of the outer wall from the soil, treat it with any waterproofing solution (mastic) or wrap it with roofing material. Then lay a hard insulation or polyurethane foam, re-wrap it with roofing material (this will save the sheet from deformation) and fill it with soil. To minimize the influence of water, it is better to equip the drainage system.

Insulation of a bulk cellar (underground)

It is carried out both outside and inside. Below are the detailed recommendations and advice on the step-by-step thermal insulation of a facility for storing agricultural products in the country.

How to insulate a cellar with your own hands

Various insulation technologies in the form of step-by-step instructions.

External insulation of a bulk cellar

The most time-consuming part of the work, the implementation involves the implementation of a number of actions:

the soil surrounding the roof and walls of the cellar is removed.
Note. Excavation is sometimes not possible. For example, when the cellar is dug into the ground, and the resulting slopes are finished with bricks. Such walls can collapse. In this case, users are advised to remove the soil at a distance of 100-150 mm. from the wall, and then gradually remove the rest.

Additional protection from moisture will be provided by arranging a crushed stone-sand cushion at a depth of 200-300 mm. from the base of the wall.

plates of rigid insulation are mounted or polyurethane foam is applied;

all defects from the surface of the walls are eliminated;

for further work, it is necessary that the roof and walls are absolutely dry. Therefore, work is stopped until the walls are completely dry. As you can see, work is best done in the warm dry season;

roof insulation is, in fact, the overlap of the cellar with insulation. The technology provides for laying roofing material over the ceiling, filling the roof on top with a clay-straw mixture. The height of the fill on the roof is 0.4-0.5 m. The mixture is carefully rammed and covered with a dense film. The edges of the film are folded onto the wall with an overlap of 150-200 mm.

the wall is waterproofed. In this case, priming will not help much. It is better to use a solution of bitumen with diesel fuel (1: 3), mastic, roofing felt or a special film;

the joints between the sheets are blown out with polyurethane foam;
Some masters advise to tighten the insulation polymer mesh to ensure the integrity of the sheet. Roofing material will more successfully cope with this task. But often the distance between the wall and the soil is simply covered with expanded clay, soil with a high clay content or a mixture of soil, sawdust / straw and clay.

In the absence of ventilation in the cellar, it is advisable to take care of it at this stage.

the resulting hill is covered with a layer fertile soil 100-150 mm high. followed by disembarkation herbaceous plants, which will protect the cellar from the sun's rays, and strengthen the soil with their roots.

Internal insulation of the cellar

From the inside, walls, ceiling, floor and doors are subject to thermal insulation. Several photos as an example of the finished result.

Insulation of the cellar wall from the inside

Execution technology:

walls are inspected for defects;

the cellar is freed from the contents, shelves and boxes are temporarily dismantled;

detected defects are eliminated (protrusions are knocked off, cracks are foamed with foam or sealant);
Increased attention is paid to the quality of the surface, because significant irregularities impede the high-quality installation of foam;

the wall is waterproofed (with mastic or liquid rubber);

plates of rigid insulation are fixed.
For this, umbrella dowels or glue are used. The foam attachment starts from the bottom row and moves up. In this case, in each subsequent row, an offset by half of the sheet is performed;

a polymer mesh is attached to the insulated surface;
the places where the sheets adjoin are blown out with foam. If the gap is significant, scraps of foam are placed in it;
apply plaster.

Note. To eliminate foci of mold formation, it is advisable to treat the walls with a solution of lime and copper sulfate.

Cellar floor insulation

There are several insulation methods that have worked well in practice. Consider floor insulation with expanded clay, as the most the best option, in terms of price / quality ratio.

Work order:

after the concrete hardens, on which the beacons are exposed and fixed, expanded clay gravel with a fraction of 5-20 mm is poured. At the same time, the thickness of the gravel layer depends on the load that will fall on the floor;
a vapor barrier film with an exit to the wall is laid on its surface. The overlap height is equal to the backfill height;
the floor is deepened to the depth of the future heat-insulating layer (200-300 mm) and leveled;
beacons are installed on the film. The first one is at a distance of 300-400 mm from the wall. The rest at a distance equal to the length of the rule, which will be equal to the screed;
a reinforced screed is poured. The thickness of the screed also depends on the load.

Thermal insulation method using sand and gravel. This method can only be used for screed floors.

Sequence of work:

if no insulation is used, the floor is filled with hot bitumen. It will perform the function of waterproofing;
sand and crushed stone pillow is carefully rammed;
a layer of crushed stone is poured (100 mm.);
the floor deepens to the depth of the future heat-insulating layer and is leveled;
a layer of sand (50 mm) is poured on top;
a rigid heat-insulating material can be laid on the surface (for example, penoplex, expanded polystyrene plates);
the prepared floor is poured with a reinforced concrete screed.

Insulation of the cellar ceiling

In the case of a buried or ground cellar, the roof of the structure needs insulation. Roof insulation works involve the use of soft or hard insulation, which is installed in accordance with the manufacturer's instructions.

As for the underground (buried, bulk) cellar, the ceiling of the room needs additional insulation.

Work order:

plaster is applied.
a layer of hard insulation is mounted;
concrete floor slab or wooden beams treated with a penetrating waterproofing primer. The composition fills the capillaries and prevents water seepage. The wood is additionally treated with an antiseptic;
the heat-insulating material is covered with a mounting mesh;
whitewashing with lime with copper sulfate is performed.

Note. The ceiling in the cellar is the most vulnerable in terms of temperature regime a place. Therefore, it is better to insulate it in two layers (100 mm).

Insulation of the entrance group: doors or hatch to the cellar

If the entrance to the cellar is in the house or in the garage, there are no special requirements for its insulation.

But if the entrance is located on the street, then it is necessary to insulate the manhole into the cellar.

Work order:

insulation of the door in the cellar used to be done using felt and other soft materials. However, now it is considered justified to use rigid insulation that is glued to the door. Then the insulation is covered with a sheet of plywood, plastic or natural wood... The cracks at the junction of the door to the box must be eliminated. At this point, a door seal is installed;

insulation of the cellar hatch is performed in a similar way. Only more attention is paid to the reliable fixation of the insulation on the surface of the lid. Otherwise, it may fall off.

An important point to pay attention to when insulating a door or hatch is to exclude the possibility of their arbitrary opening. Otherwise, all work on the thermal insulation of the cellar will be useless.

Insulation of a concrete or brick cellar is not difficult due to the optimality of their shapes and resistance to mechanical damage(brick, concrete walls can be drilled by fixing the umbrella dowel or treated with hot mastic to ensure waterproofing).

But with modern caissons for cellars, the situation is somewhat different, since thermal insulation measures can damage the tightness of the tank.

Nevertheless, their insulation is also important, because the walls easily let through both heat and cold. Since the caisson is a one-piece structure, it does not need waterproofing. From the point of view of the material used, the caissons for the cellar can be (types):

plastic (made of polymer materials);
reinforced concrete (made of concrete rings);
metal (steel).

It should be borne in mind that materials have a different rate of heat loss.

In this case, the caisson cellar can be in the form of a cube or a cylinder, which leaves an imprint on the choice of a heat insulator. To insulate the caisson for the cellar, you can use bulk, rigid and sprayed insulation. Let's consider how to use them in descending order of popularity:

hard insulation. They are used in cases when the caisson has the shape of a cube, square, rectangle with smooth walls. The insulation is glued to the surface of the caisson. The caisson is placed in the ground, the distance between it and the soil is filled up;

bulk insulation: soil, expanded clay, sand, peat soil. In this case, the caisson is placed in the ground, and the distance between its walls and the soil is filled up;

sprayed insulation - polyurethane foam. Provide the most effective thermal insulation. But the lack of polyurethane foam insulation is high in price and the need to attract craftsmen with special equipment.

The indicated types of thermal insulation materials are suitable for insulating a metal cellar, as well as insulating a cellar made of plastic. A cellar made of plastic with insulation is presented on the construction market, which eliminates the need to do insulation work with your own hands, it is enough to correctly perform the installation.

Conclusion

An insulated cellar in the country house or in the courtyard of a private house is a guarantee that the preparations for the winter will be safe and sound, despite the cold or heat "overboard".