The better to insulate a wooden house from the inside. All the nuances of warming an old wooden house, what materials to choose and how to mount it yourself

In order to keep warm and cozy in the house, you need to add thermal insulation layer on the outer walls. Particular attention is paid to buildings that have been in operation for a long time and have experienced many negative impacts. Because the issue of warming the old wooden house interested in many owners.

A house made of wood has the ability to let vapors through, so that it is always comfortable to be in the premises. If you choose the wrong material for insulation, you can completely close the exit of moisture, which will lead to its accumulation in the walls of the building. This will lead to premature destruction of the entire structure.

Mineral wool

Experts claim that the best insulation not found for an old wooden house. And indeed it is. has the following properties:

Retains heat very well.
Isolates the interior from extraneous sounds from the environment.
Light weight helps to do everything quickly and efficiently.
The structure of the material allows you to hide all the irregularities.
Fire and environmental safety.
Rodents do not use to create nests.

But there are also a number of negative points:

moisture protection is required mineral wool break with a vapor barrier membrane, on the one hand, and a windproof film, on the other;
requires mechanical fixation.

But such shortcomings are easy to deal with, because this option is suitable for an old house and or a new building.

Styrofoam

Insulation from the class available. Therefore, it is in demand among all construction companies and private developers. In addition to this positive moment, there are a number of others:

Good ones thermal insulation properties.
Has soundproofing.
Does not absorb moisture.
Withstands small mechanical loads.

But a small set of disadvantages makes the foam unsuitable for insulation. country house from a log house:

lack of steam capacity;
rapid destruction under the influence of ultraviolet radiation;
rodents and insects love to create their homes in this material;
Styrofoam ignites easily, and then smolders with the release of caustic substances.

The tree already burns well, and if the finish is such that being in such a house will be life-threatening.

Penoplex (polystyrene)

This material is a close relative of polystyrene. But manufacturers have slightly improved the properties of the insulation, due to which the cost has also increased. What are the characteristics of penoplex?

Improved thermal insulation properties. If a foam plastic 10 cm thick is needed to insulate the house, then 5 cm foam can be replaced.
Withstands high mechanical stress.
Doesn't absorb moisture at all.
There are also soundproofing properties.
Penoplex is produced with the addition of flame retardants, substances that prevent the material from igniting under the influence of fire. Therefore, compared to polystyrene, foam is safer.

Sometimes it is used as thermal insulation for wooden buildings. But it is only suitable for a plinth or foundation. This is due to the lack of steam capacity. As a result, condensation will form on the walls, which means it will contribute to the development of mold and mildew.

What is the best way to insulate?

A house with a long service life requires not only insulation of the facade, but also all structural elements as a whole. Such actions will help to more effectively store heat inside the house. Therefore, we consider all the elements separately:

Wall insulation

It is better to isolate the walls from the outside. This shifts the dew point towards the environment, which allows it to be removed from the base much faster. If you insulate the walls from the inside, you can cause quite the opposite result. In this case, the walls will still freeze through.

For wall insulation, we choose hard mats of mineral wool. If there are material opportunities, you can take the foil version. The foil layer will repel heat from the walls. Before installing the insulation, be sure to close all the cracks.

In this case, we use a tourniquet, dry moss or tow. With this material, we tightly caulk the interventional space or cracks that can form on the logs.

Ceiling

There are two ways to insulate the ceiling:

from the side of the room;
from the attic side.

Both the first and second methods are effective. Harder materials are laid on the ceiling. If there is an attic under the roof, then it is better to resort to insulation from the side of the rooms. Then a structure is created from beams, between which are placed sheet insulation. Don't forget about vapor barrier membranes.

When there is an attic under the roof, you can use mineral wool, and even polystyrene. A more rigid material must be laid on top of the insulation. It can be chipboard, which will protect the insulation from bursting.

There is an option when using bulk insulation e.g. sawdust, gravel. But such materials need a lot, which can be even more expensive than using modern heaters.

Floor

The choice of technology for insulating a dilapidated house depends on whether there is basement or not. If there is a basement, then first insulate it. It is possible that after this it will not be necessary to further isolate the floor.

But if such a need has already been determined, then the following options are chosen:

Underfloor heating (electric heating). Not always suitable for old wooden structures, as it requires reliable electrical wiring.
Usage thermal insulation materials. Choose only hard options, but be sure to make a plank floor or cover chipboard boards or OSB, and then decorate with the selected floor material.

It is in an old wooden house that large heat losses occur due to dilapidated floors. Therefore, do not neglect the possibility of isolating the floors. More precisely, start insulating the house from the floors.

How to insulate an old wooden house with your own hands?

The tree must be specially treated before any outdoor work can be started. Especially if the design is closed from the eyes of the owner. Therefore, carefully and carefully adhere to the insulation technology if you do everything yourself.

And if you trusted the masters, then do not forget to control the team. It often happens that employees want to get the job done earlier and mess around a bit. This can lead to premature failure of the structure.

Surface preparation

Let's prepare the base first:

Remove all dirt and stains, traces of insects or fungus.
Remove old decorative coating.
Take off hinged structures, which will interfere with the implementation of all work.
Close all cracks.
Cover by wooden structure protective compounds. This antiseptic impregnations or mastics and moisture repellents. This will significantly extend the life of the foundation.

If the packaging says that it is desirable to make several layers, then it is better to do as the manufacturer recommends. If you save at this stage, you may regret it later.

Laying a vapor barrier

After the impregnation is completely dry, proceed to laying the membranes. This layer will protect the walls from moisture and allow vapors to freely pass through the insulation and go outside.

start laying from the bottom of the wall in vertical stripes;
each subsequent strip finds, on the previous one, by 10–15 cm;
joints are fixed with adhesive tape;
the membrane itself is fixed with a construction stapler.

Lathing installation

For the frame use wooden blocks or metal profiles. If selected wooden frame, then its details also require special processing to last as long as decorative layer. In addition, the bars will not be able to hide the unevenness of the walls, which means that you will have to put pegs or chop off in some places.

With metal, everything is much simpler - we take and install. Special retractable brackets will easily hide all the shortcomings. But such a design will cost a little more than a wooden one.

The method of installing the frame depends on whether the heater will be used or not, and also on what decorative material decided to install on the facade.

The approximate plan is:

first we do the markup. The step between the elements is equal to the width of the insulation;
screw elements;
we check how evenly the parts are installed using the building level.

Installing a heat insulator

The material that acts as a heat insulator is placed between the elements of the crate. Mats are laid tightly. At the same time, make sure that there are no gaps. Mineral wool should not bulge.

If such flaws appear, then they will later become cold bridges, which partially or completely levels out the work on insulation. Therefore, the material should lie tightly, but evenly.

Laying the wind protection film

It is customary to lay a windproof membrane on top of the insulation. This material will protect the mineral wool from the penetration of atmospheric moisture under the finish. The installation principle is the same as vapor barrier film:

Let's start from the bottom.
We make vertical stripes.
We lay in an overlap of 105-15 cm.
We glue the joints with tape.
The membrane is fixed with a stapler to the crate.

It is also appropriate to use mushroom dowels here. This mechanical fastener will additionally fix the insulation and the membrane.

Installation of the crate for fixing finishing materials from the outside

An additional crate also creates ventilation gap, which allows you to remove the steam coming out of interior spaces. The size of the gap can vary from 3 to 8 mm. It all depends on the thickness of the insulation material and the region in which the house is located.

Exterior wall decoration

As a finishing material for a wooden house, you can choose any known option. It is important to take into account the condition of the structure, that is, the strength of the structure. If the house is too old, do not choose heavy material, as the structure may not withstand the load and collapse.

fully follow the installation instructions provided by the manufacturer;
fix the details to the elements of the crate;
choose dry weather;
carry out the insulation of a wooden house only in the warm season.

Possible problems with insulation

Before insulating the old wooden house be sure to check how strong the structure is. If necessary, walls and foundations need to be strengthened. For those who have never done such a thing, it is better to take care of construction team rather than start experimenting.

And for those who nevertheless decided to do everything on their own, you should strictly adhere to the instructions and not lose sight of anything. It is important to properly prepare the base, choose a heater and finish.

Discuss the insulation of frame wooden houses we will not be here - this is generally a separate conversation, there is a different technology and we will talk about them in other articles.

Why it is not desirable to do thermal insulation of walls from the inside, and what consequences may arise, I have already described in one of the previous articles.

Here we will talk exclusively about the features of insulation from the inside, related to wooden houses.

In principle, there are not so many features, basically it is necessary to adhere to the basic rules of wall insulation from the inside, the main of which says that no wall insulation from the inside can replace high-quality insulation of the house from the outside. But if there are no options, then it is necessary to adhere to a certain technology.

Preparing the wall of a wooden house for insulation

This stage is very important, since after insulation, access to the timber from the inside will be very limited, and in order to fix something, it will be necessary to completely dismantle the insulation.

And so, first of all, it is necessary to clean the walls from the inside from dust, dirt, various delaminations, etc.

After sealing the cracks and holes that have appeared.

Deal with electrical wiring if you have wires running along the walls. If the house is old, it would be better to check all the electrical wiring, repair if necessary, but if it is new, then carry out installation, not forgetting about electrical safety in wooden houses.

Vapor barrier for insulation

Before installing the insulation, it is necessary to prepare a vapor barrier. It is necessary to protect the insulation from moisture on the walls, which, after insulation wooden walls home from the inside will be inevitable. In turn, the more moisture inside the insulation, the less good it will be.

The vapor barrier film also has a negative effect - the creation of a thermos in the room. The walls practically cease to "breathe", the humidity, as a rule, rises. This can only be saved good ventilation. Without ventilation, wall insulation from the inside should not be started, because over time you will get the feeling that you live in a plastic bag, and the walls will start to sweat and get wet, and as a result, fungus and mold will appear, which will have a very detrimental effect on wooden walls and the health of the people living in the house.

Vapor barrier can be made with a special membrane film, which will do its job much better and more correctly, but it also costs much more.

Installation of insulation on a cotton basis

As a rule, the installation of mineral wool is carried out using a crate, since this is the most suitable option due to the characteristics of this type of insulation.

On the wall, over the vapor barrier, installation is carried out wooden crate(it is not advisable to use metal, since metal has a very high thermal conductivity).

Then a heater is laid between the slats. The most commonly used material for wall cladding from the inside is drywall. It is screwed, as a rule, directly to the crate.

Installation of polystyrene insulation

Styrofoam is the cheapest and most practical insulation today. Expanded polystyrene as an external insulation is used very often, mainly because of its cheapness and low thermal conductivity.

But despite this, it is the least suitable for warming the house from the inside.

There are several reasons for this:

release of toxic substances (the higher the temperature, the more)
airtight
over time, rodents may appear in it

Installation of insulation "Ecowool"

The characteristics of ecowool are much more favorable for insulating the walls of a wooden house from the inside:

breathable material
there is some protection against fungi and mold
due to the passage of air through itself, it does not allow the walls to store increased moisture.

Common mistakes when insulating wooden walls from the inside with your own hands

Many people think that the more insulation when warming from the inside, the better. I assure you that this is a myth. If there is too much insulation on the walls from the inside, the dew point can move into the insulation itself, and if it is on a cotton basis, then its thermal insulation will decrease significantly, and the insulation itself will not live long in dampness.
Some insulate the wooden wall of the house on both sides, and this will have a very detrimental effect on the wall itself. The reason for this is the vapor barrier of the insulation, which will not allow the wall to dry out, and over time, fungi, mold and rot will appear there, which will destroy your wooden structure much faster than you think.

If you have the opportunity to insulate a wooden house from the outside, then insulate without hesitation, wall insulation from the inside is fundamentally wrong and it is necessary to resort to this type of insulation only in extreme cases when there are no other options.

To insulate the walls, both from the outside and from the inside, preferably in the warm season, when the wall is as dry as possible.
If you have any kind of cladding on the outside of your house, you need to make sure that there are air vents between the cladding and the wooden wall that will allow your wall to dry out somehow.
Before installing the insulation from the inside, carefully process the wooden walls of the house, because after the insulation in the wall there will be a microclimate of increased danger for the wood and excess impregnation will not hurt.
If you are going to sheathe the walls from the inside with drywall, then when installing the crate, consider the dimensions so that you do not have to build additional mounts for drywall.
Do not use polystyrene for insulation from the inside, do not fall for its cheapness and excellent qualities as a heater. It is not suitable for interior work.

The tree is traditional material for building houses. It is intuitively clear that the more massive and thicker the wall, the more low temperatures she can endure. Today it is not always possible to find construction material required sizes. The solution is to perform additional thermal insulation of the walls.

Principles of insulation

The choice of how to insulate a wooden house is actually not so great. There are only two options: internal and external. The first option is the best from a thermotechnical point of view. External insulation does not allow the wall material to cool. As a result, the dew point is located in the outer insulation layer.

Nevertheless, sometimes it is necessary to perform wall insulation inside a wooden house. There may be several reasons for doing this:

the desire to leave the external texture of wooden walls unchanged;
insufficient thickness external insulation;
the possibility of carrying out work without reference to weather conditions.

Wood, as a structural material, does not like excessive waterlogging. To provide comfortable conditions operation, it is necessary to isolate the insulation from water vapor penetrating from the living quarters.

Moisture that has ended up inside the structure for one reason or another should have a chance to evaporate in environment. The vapor permeability of the wall "pie" should gradually decrease in the direction from the living quarters towards the outer (street) surface of the log house.

What to Consider

In fact, when performing insulation from the inside, it is impossible to meet two identical cases. To get the most effective result, it is necessary to make at least an approximate calculation before starting work.

Should be taken into account:

climatic zone of construction;
material and thickness of various layers of the wall;
nature of residence in the house;
temperature and humidity conditions in the room.

Used thermal insulation materials

The main characteristic of thermal insulation is the coefficient of thermal conductivity. No less important when deciding on the choice of a particular material will be the class of combustibility and density.

Mineral wool

Non-combustible, fibrous material produced from melts of silicon and basalt rocks, slag residues of metallurgical production and their mixtures. It is produced in the form of rolls or mats of various densities.

When insulating vertical surfaces, it is more convenient to work with separate plates. The optimal density in this case should be in the range from 40 to 60 m³/kg.

When using, the use of hydro and vapor barrier is mandatory. Wet cotton wool contributes to a sharp decrease in thermal insulation properties.

Styrofoam and XPS

The structure of foamed insulation, which includes EPS and foam plastics, is a large number of closed, air-filled cells. Such a structure eliminates the need for any additional protective layers. The difference between XPS compared to foam is a denser and therefore more resistant to moisture structure.

When organizing work, you should opt for low-combustible grades (G1 or G2). G4 is characterized by the release of acrid black smoke and burning drops during combustion and is not allowed for use in wooden houses.

Work example

For example, we can consider the sequence of work on the insulation of a wooden log house from the inside. Wall thickness 150 mm. Mineral wool is used as a heater in Rockwool Scandic Light Butts slabs. Dimensions 800 x 600 x 50.

Foamed insulation does not let air through. On the one hand, this is good - water vapor does not penetrate the wall. On the other hand, it turns out a closed thermos, the atmosphere of a wooden house is lost and organization is required. forced ventilation. The vapor permeability coefficients of mineral wool and wood are quite close. The whole structure from the point of view of heat engineering will be relatively homogeneous.

The choice in favor of just such a brand of material is primarily associated with its wide distribution, ease of use and relatively low cost. An important factor is compression packaging. It allows you to reduce the volume occupied during transportation by up to 70%.

Design calculation

Before starting work, it is necessary to correctly calculate. It is necessary to determine the composition of the insulation structure, the material and thicknesses of the various layers. For these purposes, online services are very suitable for thermal calculation that exist on the Internet.

So, for a wooden wall 150 mm thick internal insulation may have two options.

Option 1:

interior decoration;
air gap;
vapor barrier;
insulation layer 5 cm;
vapor barrier;
air gap;
wall.

Option 2:

interior decoration;
air gap;
vapor barrier;
insulation layer 5 cm;
wall.

Both options work up to temperature outdoor air-15C° is exactly the same. A comfortable thermal regime is maintained inside the room (+23 С°).

With further lowering of the temperature in the first variant with two air gaps, condensate does not form down to -20 ° C. In the second, starting from -16 ° C, the dew point shifts to the border of the timber-insulation.

Increasing the thickness of the insulation, paradoxically, will only worsen the situation. With a thickness of the thermal insulation layer of 10 cm, condensate will form already at -12 ° C.

It can be seen from the calculations that insulation from the inside during severe and prolonged frosts is ineffective. However, the option with two air gaps has the right to exist with seasonal residence in cold climatic zones and year-round in temperate zones with mild winters.

Ventilation air

The ventilation gap allows air to circulate inside the wall. It allows you to remove a certain amount of moisture (condensate formed in cold weather).

Internal vents are formed by stuffing vertical slats 20 mm thick and about 40 mm wide onto the wall surface. Fastening is carried out with nails or self-tapping screws.

Installed on top of the installed rails vapor barrier membrane. It is secured with construction stapler. An important nuance is the orientation. The smooth side should be facing the insulation, rough from it. This will allow water vapor to escape from the volume of thermal insulation towards the air gap and will not let them back.

Execution of the frame and installation of thermal insulation

The main part of the insulating structure is a frame for installing insulation mats. For its manufacture, it is best to use bars with a section of 40 x 50 mm or 50 x 50 mm. Such a section will provide sufficient spatial rigidity.

Fastening uprights carried out to the floor and ceiling with the help of fastening profiled plates and self-tapping screws. If necessary, to give greater strength, it is possible to carry out through fastening with large self-tapping screws directly to the wall of the house. For the convenience of carrying out subsequent work, the pitch of the vertical racks must correspond to the dimensions of the insulation mats (800 or 600 mm).

To fix the mineral wool in the frame, no fasteners are required. Mats are installed tightly, by surprise. It is very important to completely fill the entire space between the racks in order to exclude microconvection and cold air bridges through the internal slots in the insulation layer.

vapor barrier

The principles and techniques for installing the second vapor barrier layer are similar to the first. The diffusion membrane is unfolded over the entire surface with a smooth side to the insulation and fastened with a stapler.

A continuous barrier is created that protects the interior of the frame with insulation from the penetration of water vapor from the side of the room.

Air gap

By analogy with the first air gap rails are stuffed onto the racks of the frame through the installed membrane. They serve to organize the ventilation space and are the basis for fastening fine finish premises.

Finishing sheathing

Finishing can be the most diverse:

lining;
block house;
OSB boards or drywall sheets, followed by plastering or wallpapering.

The best option to preserve the color and atmosphere of a wooden house is to imitate a bar. If everything is done carefully, then an ignorant person will never guess about the presence of a heater behind the sheathing boards.

To insulate a house in which there is no interior decoration much easier than doing it in an already fully equipped and ennobled house. Do not rush into any internal work until every room in the house is properly insulated. Thanks to modern materials, you can do it yourself. Any room will be cozy and comfortable if you approach the matter competently and carefully read the technology for insulating the ceiling, walls and floor.

Insulation of the ceiling of a wooden house

As a rule, ceiling insulation is not treated responsibly. Many people think that it is not necessary to insulate it, but this is far from the case. The air that people try so hard to warm in winter rises up and goes through the ceiling to the street. Assuming serious mistake- leaving the ceiling uninsulated, many without knowing it lose half of the heat, they waste cash on the warmth fading into the unknown.

Ceiling insulation material:

Mineral wool. This material is not expensive, but reliable and easy to install. He is one of the few heaters with whom you can work on your own without calling for help from other workers and, most importantly, do not pay them money.
Glassine. Used as a waterproofing material is used.

For frame structures and sheathing you will need:

Cutting board.
Nails, glue, polyurethane foam.
Drywall.

Ceiling insulation tools:

Hammer.
Hacksaw.
Screwdriver.
Electric jigsaw.
Tile adhesive.

Stages of ceiling insulation:

From edged board making a frame you need to be prepared for the fact that this will reduce the height of the room. The distance between the boards of the frame should be no more than 1 meter.
Between the boards of the frame it is necessary glue glassine, without leaving empty spaces, so that the material holds well, it needs to be smeared a little with tile adhesive.
Over glassine we lay the insulation- mineral wool. Do not leave holes between the insulation. If the material does not hold, use tile adhesive in small quantities.
The last step is plasterboard ceiling lining. Using a screwdriver, we fasten sheets of drywall to a wooden frame.

It is necessary to insulate the ceiling from the inside in warm time year and not earlier than 1 year after the construction of the house. Only in this case, the insulation will pass correctly and last for many years.

If it is decided to insulate the walls of a wooden house from the inside, you need to know what, in this case, the walls can condensation will form. Northern places are especially subjected to this. the globe where it is very cold in winter, and the rooms are warm. This happens due to the effect of a temperature difference, during which the dew point moves into the insulation layers. This situation can be corrected film, which is used together with a heater, or to carry out good ventilation.

Required inventory

jigsaw, hammer drill, screwdriver, mallet, tape measure, level, plumb lines, chisel, screwdriver, hammer.
Wooden bars.
Felt, foam or tow.
Material for wall insulation, for example, glass wool.
Drywall.
Putty.

Modern materials for thermal insulation of walls

Ecowool- this material perfectly fills all the cracks and voids present in the walls, at the same time preventing blowing through the walls. It does not allow moisture to penetrate inside, thus preventing the occurrence of fungal infections. One of the few breathable materials.
glass wool- choosing this material in the insulation, you should take care of the thermal insulation in the room, as glass wool allows a small amount of moisture to pass through, as a result, thermal insulation properties deteriorate.
Styrofoam- one of the most common materials for wall insulation in wooden houses. First of all beckons with its cheapness. Also positive qualities are elasticity and lightness. The material has heat and sound insulating qualities.

wall insulation technology

All cracks in the wall must be sealed. foam, linen felt or tow. You can choose any material that is more convenient to work with. We make a crate from wooden beam. We place a place for installing the extreme elements of the crate. This should be given Special attention, it depends on the first bars how smoothly the next ones will be attached, so use a level and plumb lines to verify.

If the definition of the first beam is completed, it should be fixed with screws and dowels. Should be fixed every 25-30 cm. Then we measure 1 meter from the first beam and fasten the second one in the same way parallel to the first, etc. until the full perimeter of the crate is formed on the entire wall. If you meet on the way window openings, they should be beaten with bars in a circle.

Each beam must be treated with antiseptics to prevent rot and fungus. The crate is ready. Between the bars should be laid insulation. You do not need to use glue, the material will already hold tightly between the crate and the wall.

Making insulation. Used for insulation film or polyethylene, it is superimposed on top of the insulation with small allowances at the edges.

The last step is finishing. We cover the walls with plasterboard, we fasten it to the crate of the bars, it is important that the plates fit snugly against each other. If cracks appear, they should be filled.

Insulation of the floor of a wooden house

Tools and materials for work:

Hammer, drill, saw, electric jigsaw.
Nails, tape measure, pencil, knife.
Level, planer.
Mineral wool.

The concrete floor in a private wooden house necessarily requires insulation. It is worth noting that the process of floor insulation is not easy, but you can do it yourself by spending your personal time and effort. Consider the method - "raised floor", it will raise the floor at least 6 cm, but makes the room much warmer.

Mineral wool for floor insulation

Mineral wool has been inexpensive but effective material.

Advantages mineral wool:

This material sound and heat insulating.
Excellent features and reviews.
Duration service life.
Low density.
Does not deform practically under no circumstances.
The price is always available for any citizen.
Available in 2 types: flexible mats or rigid boards.

The only competitor to mineral wool is expanded polystyrene, which boasts of its practicality and ease of installation.

Insulation of a wooden house should be carried out completely, it is necessary to insulate ceiling, walls and floor. If the ceiling is insulated and the walls are not, warm air anyway, it will leave the room through microcracks and then all the work will be in vain. On the modern market, you can buy a lot of thermal insulation coatings and tools for home insulation. If you approach the matter competently, even a wooden house old building will be cozy and warm in the coldest winters.

Video of warming a wooden house

Buying or building a wooden Vacation home, its owners may soon be faced with the need to insulate it. There can be quite a few reasons for the low temperature inside a wooden house. Often this can be low-quality wood and insufficient thickness of the logs. Therefore, in order to somehow correct the situation, it will be necessary to insulate the wooden walls of the house. Work on the insulation of the walls of a wooden house is not particularly difficult, the main thing is to understand the technology of warming wooden walls.

Features of wooden wall insulation

Wood, due to its structure, has a number of unique qualities and requires a special approach in operation. Main Feature such a material as wood is its ability to "breathe". This means that wooden walls can themselves regulate the microclimate in the house. You should also remember the natural origin of logs, which are prone to mold and decay. It is the naturalness of wood that imposes certain restrictions on the materials and methods of warming a wooden house.

Let's start with materials for warming a wooden house. They must have the following characteristics:

high vapor permeability. Large or the same as wood 0.06 Mg/(m*h*Pa);
have high moisture resistance;
have high fire safety;
be resistant to fungus and mold.

According to these basic requirements, the following materials are most suitable for insulating wooden walls:

mineral wool;
ecowool;
sawdust granules.

In addition, facing bricks can also be used to insulate a wooden house, aerated concrete blocks, siding. Of course, a stone in combination with a heater will create the most effective thermal insulation, but then you will have to sacrifice the external beauty of a wooden house.

Important! But to use extruded polystyrene foam, polyurethane foam, mounting foam, various sealants or polystyrene is strongly discouraged. These materials have extremely low vapor permeability, which in turn is fraught with the appearance of mold and fungi on the wooden walls, and ultimately rot.

When preparing for the insulation of wooden walls, special attention should be paid to the technology of creating a heat-insulating layer. The main rule that should be observed in this case is as follows: the vapor transmission capacity of each subsequent layer must be higher than the previous one, in the direction from the interior to the street. According to this simple truth, the thermal insulation of a wooden house is created, which is a multilayer cake. The structure of such a pie for wall insulation from the outside consists of battens and counter battens, thermal insulation, wind and moisture insulation. The internal insulation of wooden walls also obeys this rule, with the only difference being that vapor barrier is used instead of windproofing.

Important! If you can’t decide in any way how best to insulate wooden walls, from the inside or outside, then the answer is definitely the same - you should choose the insulation of wooden walls from the outside. This is due to several reasons:

First, the interior living space of the house will be preserved.
Secondly, due to the properties of wood to accumulate and release moisture, external insulation is the most effective.
Thirdly, the external insulation of wooden walls is much easier to create.
Fourth, when external insulation the number of cold bridges is minimal.

Of course, the insulation of a wooden wall from the inside is also possible, but only if it is impossible to create external insulation.

Calculation of the insulation layer

Payment optimal thickness insulation layer - one of the most milestones when warming any house, especially wooden. This task must be approached with all responsibility, since an error in the calculations will at least entail unnecessary financial costs for insulation, and at the maximum will lead to damage to the wooden walls. Therefore, if you are not friends with formulas and calculations, it is better to contact specialists on this issue. We will consider an example of a calculation with comments and explanations, by which you can determine which layer of thermal insulation will be required for your home.

To perform calculations, you will need to refer to SNiP 23-02-2003 "Thermal protection of buildings", as well as TSN (territorial building codes). In these normative documents all necessary initial data for calculations and calculation methodology are given. The calculations themselves are based on the thermal resistance of materials, which is constant and taken separately for each region. For example, in the Moscow region this indicator is 4.15 (m2*°C)/W. It is also worth noting that the calculations should take into account the thermal resistance (R) of each material in the heat-insulating cake and sum them up. To perform calculations, the thermal conductivity of the materials used and their thickness are needed.

The formula for calculating thermal resistance is as follows: R = P/K.

Where P is the thickness of the material, K is the thermal conductivity of the material. For example, a wooden wall is finished on the outside facing brick, and a layer of mineral wool is placed between them. Then the total heat transfer resistance of such a wall will be equal to the sum of the resistances of each of the materials.

Based on the above formula, we will make a calculation for the thickness of the heat-insulating layer. The formula for calculating the following is P=R*K. We take data on thermal conductivity from the table of thermal conductivity of materials or from the packaging of the material used, and thermal resistance from regulatory documents.

For example, for Moscow and the region, the resistance to heat transfer is 4.15 (m2 * ° C) / W. If we insulate a wooden wall 20 cm thick with siding with mineral wool, then for wood the heat resistance is 0.806 (m2 * ° C) / W, and for mineral wool 0.045 (m2 * ° C) / W. Accordingly, the insulation layer must have a thermal resistance R=4.15-0.806-0.045=3.299 m2*°C.

Now we take the coefficient of thermal conductivity of mineral wool 0.41 W / m * K and multiply by the thermal resistance P \u003d 3.299 * 0.041 \u003d 0.135 m. Similarly, you can calculate the layer thickness for any other insulation in different regions country.

It remains to calculate the area of \u200b\u200binsulation and purchase all the materials necessary for this. First of all, it is mineral wool itself, wind and moisture protection, as well as vapor barrier. In addition, wooden slats with a thickness of 130x50 mm, a height equal to the height of the insulated wall, and fasteners for them will be required. As a fastener for wooden slats you can use ordinary long self-tapping screws or metal corners with holes for self-tapping screws. The number of rails is taken on the basis that the distance between them should be 2 - 5 cm less than the width of the insulation mats. Fasteners are purchased at the rate of 1 - 2 attachment points per 1 linear meter. We also purchase slats 50x30 mm or 50x20 mm for counter battens. The total number of such rails is taken from the calculation that the frame of the counter-lattice consists of 3 horizontal rows around the entire perimeter of the house.

As already noted, the insulation of wooden walls from the outside is the simplest and most affordable way insulation. Warming of a wooden house should begin in a year or two. This is important, since the tree shrinks during this time, which leads to a change in the height of the building. In addition, during shrinkage, new cracks will be found that will have to be well caulked.

Do-it-yourself warming of wooden walls from the outside is performed different ways. Consider the most common - mineral wool insulation with siding trim. The work takes place in several stages:

1. We check the walls for cracks and the tightness of the logs or beams to each other.

2. If necessary, we caulk all the cracks found.

3. First we measure overall length walls end to end. Then we break it into equal intervals 2-5 cm shorter than the mineral wool mat.

4. We apply markings under the crate on the wall.

5. We prepare the bars for the crate by cutting them to the required length.

6. First, we fix the bars around the perimeter of the wall. One above the foundation, one under the canopy and two along the edges.

7. In the resulting box, we first place and fix the frame around the window and doorways, and then the vertical bars of the crate according to the markings.

Important! If the length of one bar is not enough to cover the height of the wall, then the missing pieces must be placed in a checkerboard pattern in each subsequent rack. For example, the 1st rack consists of a long part from the bottom, a short part from the top, the 2nd rack - a short bar from the bottom, a long one from the top.

8. Now we take mineral wool mats and insert them between the frame posts. Since the distance between the bars is slightly less than the width of the mat, the mineral wool will be held inside in a spacer. To reduce the number of cold bridges, mineral wool can be laid in two layers. To do this, it is enough to buy mats of smaller thickness. For example, with a total insulation layer thickness of 13 cm, mats with a thickness of 50 mm or 70 mm can be used. In this case, each subsequent layer is laid with an offset relative to the first.

9. On top of the insulation we lay a layer of moisture and wind insulation from a superdiffusion membrane. We fix it to the frame with a stapler.

10. We fill the counter crate, thus creating a ventilation gap of 30 mm between the insulation and the finishing material.

11. At the end, the facade is finished with siding.

If it is planned to finish with facing bricks, then it is better to use ecowool granules or sawdust granules as a heater. These materials, when backfilled between the wooden wall and the cladding, will fill all the voids, thereby creating a reliable thermal insulation protection. Insulation of wooden walls outside with mineral wool with facing bricks is similar in technology to siding. The difference lies in the used finishing materials and the obligatory presence of a foundation for a brick.

As already noted, the insulation of wooden walls from the inside is quite rare. Usually this method of insulation is chosen when it is not possible to make external insulation. The technology for performing work is in many ways similar to external insulation, but there are a number of differences. Let us consider in more detail the stages and features of the work when insulating wooden walls from the inside:

1. After shrinking at home, we check them for cracks and carefully caulk them.

2. We drill small holes in the crowns for ventilation.

3. We mark the places for installing the counter-lattice.

4. We cut the bars for the counter-lattice and fix them to the wall. This will create a ventilated gap between the wall and the insulation, which in turn will keep the walls from rotting from the inside.

Important! Since the insulation will not be located over the entire area of \u200b\u200bthe wall, the floor will be natural cold bridges, internal walls and ceiling. To block them, you will need to insulate the surface of the ceiling and floor. How it looks can be seen in the photo showing the internal insulation of wooden walls.

5. We sheathe the counter-lattice with a superdiffusion membrane and fix it to the bars with a stapler.

6. We mark the places for installing the main crate. We start from the corners and bring them to the center. At the same time, do not forget about the door and window openings. In them, the bars will frame the opening around the perimeter.

7. First, we fix the bars along the perimeter of the wall, and then we install the vertical ones and into the openings. We take the distance between the bars 2 - 5 cm less than the insulation mats.

8. We take the insulation and insert it between the laths of the crate. As in the case of external insulation, we lay out the insulation in two layers with an offset to each other. Thus, we will eliminate possible cold bridges.

9. We lay a vapor barrier on top of the insulation and fix it to the racks with a stapler.

10. After the installation of the thermal insulation of the walls is completed, we insulate the ceiling and floor. This will allow you to get wall insulation behind the floor and eliminate possible cold bridges.

11. We sheathe the walls with drywall and carry out the finishing.

The method described above for insulating a wooden wall from the inside involves the use of mineral wool mats. In addition to it, you can also use ecowool granules or sawdust granules. But unlike external insulation, the granules will have to be blown into the space between the wall and the vapor barrier film, which is somewhat inconvenient and requires special equipment.

Performing work on the insulation of wooden walls requires only skillful handling of the tool. Of course, comparing external and internal insulation, one can note the complexity and exactingness of performing work inside the house. Therefore, if you do not have sufficient experience, it is better to opt for external insulation, and if it is impossible, turn to more experienced craftsmen.