Gcl on a wooden frame. Installing a wooden frame for drywall, do-it-yourself rules and instructions for work

Drywall is a multifunctional building material of our time, with which you can sheathe any room in home. To create a frame base for gypsum boards, you can use wooden or metal profiles.

Most often, a metal frame is used in repair work, which provides greater structural strength. But making it is much more difficult than from wooden slats. Therefore, along with metal, a wooden frame for drywall is often used. Wood is an environmentally friendly material and this is another reason why many people prefer it as the basis for home renovations. Moreover, such a frame is much easier to make at home.

In order for the wooden structure in the house to serve for a long time, the tree must be properly prepared. This material is highly susceptible to biological corrosion, climatic influences and burns well. Therefore, before making a wooden frame or partition, the tree should be prepared according to the rules.
Note! It is best to make a partition or frame from conifers.
Before starting, chemical treatment is usually carried out. To do this, wooden slats are treated over the entire surface with antiseptic substances. This will help you prevent:

damage to wood by mold or fungal microorganisms. And under their influence, the tree deteriorates very quickly;
the risk of damage to the tree by arboreal insects that use the wood as food;
biological decay;
damage to the bars by rodents that can be found in a house, especially a country one.

Today, the market is replete with a wide variety of antiseptics. But the best is sodium fluoride. It penetrates very deep into the wood and is poorly washed out of it.

It should be noted that sodium fluoride does not decompose and cannot lead to metal corrosion. It is also non-toxic to humans and odorless, which is a great advantage for treating wooden beams and battens with this substance at home.
In addition to sodium fluoride, sodium silicofluoride with the addition of soda ash is also used for wood treatment.
In residential premises it is strictly forbidden to use the following types of oil antiseptics:

coal;
creosote;
anthracene oils;
shale.

When processing wood with such substances, a person can harm his health!

Before carrying out the installation of wooden planks, the slats must be in the room where they will be fixed for several days. Thanks to this, they will undergo sufficient acclimatization.
Remember that the slats must be made of quality lumber, which must comply with fire safety and humidity requirements.

The seller, upon request, is obliged to provide you with a certificate or certificate stating that the material has been treated with a flame retardant and has passed a special examination by authorized bodies.

Creating a drawing

Before starting installation wooden elements construction, draw a drawing.
It is created like this:

measure the length of the room;
measure the height of the room;
multiply the resulting numbers and get the perimeter of the room;
then we measure the perimeter of the windows in the same way, doorways and put them on the drawing.

Drawing

By creating a diagram, you can evaluate the range of upcoming work and decide on the amount of materials. With it, you will make the correct frame, and you will not have to bend the elements and tamp them so that they fit perfectly into the structure.

Tools for the job

You can make a wooden frame for drywall using the following tools:

screwdriver;
hammer;
construction knife;
concrete drill with impact drill;

Tools

wood saw;
plumb line, tape measure and pencil;
building level;
screwdriver, crowbar;
brackets, dowels and screws.

With these tools at hand, making a wooden partition or frame will be very easy even for a beginner.

Installation work

Installation of a wooden structure for drywall involves the following processes:

tracing (marking) of the wall. We put all the elements of the drawing on the wall;
we measure the distance of the plane of the future partition and retreat from it to the width of the GKL. You should start from the ceiling. We hammer in a nail and hang a plumb line on it. We mark a point on the floor;
by connecting these two points, you will get the first line;
then repeat the procedure;

Note! You can do it a little easier. Attach the GKL sheet to the wall (short side) and simply draw a perpendicular from a given point.

then we begin to make the installation of the frame. We fasten the bars along the lines. Bend wooden beams should not, otherwise they can simply be broken. Can be fastened with both self-tapping screws and spikes (in wooden house). In a stone house we use screws, dowels, brackets or direct hangers;
along the walls and ceiling we fasten solid bars. Remember that it is impossible to bend a solid beam, so changing the design will no longer work. In this regard, make all fastenings with a level check;
along the floor, the divergence of the bars on both sides of the doorway is allowed;
when the opening is located near the wall, we use a solid beam running on one side of this opening;
Next, we carry out the installation of vertical rails. We install rails strictly according to the level. You can bend them slightly if the rail is slightly uneven. But don't overdo it or it will break.

finished frame

Note! To do wooden structure, you can use bars and slats of different sections. The choice of section should be made depending on the method of sheathing and the height of the partition. You also need to take into account the level of load that the frame will experience in the future, so as not to bend its elements.
When the frame is ready, you can install the doorway:

on the sides of the opening it is necessary to install two risers. The width of the doorway should be 4 cm more than the width of the door frame;
we strengthen the risers with additional bars;
at the level of the door frame, add 2.5 cm and install a horizontal lintel. To fix the jumper, it is not necessary to bend it;
we connect the jumper with the ceiling rail using two vertical bars. They will make the structure more rigid. They will also be needed for fixing drywall sheets in the future;
Next, attach the racks. Their step, so as not to bend the frame, is 60 cm;
in the case when the ceilings are slightly higher than the length of the drywall sheet, we make a horizontal jumper in order to better join the sheets at the stage of their installation.

Advice. To determine the location of the jumper above the opening, you need to attach a drywall sheet and nail the jumper in place of its edge so that it goes up to its middle.
To increase the rigidity of the structure and the level of load it can withstand at the junction of the bars, metal corners and linings should be used, which are designed to collect truss systems. Thus, you prevent the mechanical destruction of the frame and make it more resistant to mechanical influences from the outside.
The finished structure and each of its details should be checked during installation by the building level. Racks must go strictly vertically, and all jumpers - horizontally. In this case, the racks should be positioned in such a way that the maximum possible number of whole sheets of drywall fit on the wall. As a result, you will save not only time, but also reduce material consumption.
Wooden crate under drywall it is quite easy to do it yourself, subject to a number of rules and technologies. The main thing is to strictly follow the instructions and you will get even the most complex elements of it.

We will talk only about the longitudinal (vertical) scheme for the manufacture of cladding. The approximate sequence for manufacturing cladding on a wooden frame is as follows:

1. Mark the position of the battens and cut them to size. When cutting racks, subtract the thickness of the lower and upper horizontal bars from the length of the wall.

2. Install the racks and the upper and lower horizontal bars.

3. Install short bars above the door and window openings, slightly shifting the vertical short bars so as not to make cuts in the drywall.

4. Finish (paste over GKL) window and door openings inside. Nail sheets of drywall onto the walls.

5. Nail sheets around window and door openings.

6. Close the joints between the sheets and prepare the walls for finishing.

Walls made of brick and masonry are rarely perfectly even, so when making plasterboard lining, all irregularities should be taken into account. The greatest difficulty is the alignment of the bars of the crate vertically and horizontally. If you do not pay due attention to this procedure, even and smooth walls will not work.

Mounting the frame uneven wall perform like this. First, the irregularities of the wall are revealed. The cut out lower horizontal beam of the future frame is placed on the floor near the wall and a line is drawn along its outer edge. Perform marking under the racks with a step of 600 mm. Then press the rack bar vertically against the wall and through equal intervals mark the position of the butt when it goes beyond the line on the floor. Connect the marks with a second line parallel to the first. Attach the support beam to the floor so that its outer edge runs along the outer line of the mark. Install the vertical bars on the support, leveling their outer surfaces, inserting, if necessary, gaskets. Evenness is checked by plumb, level and rule. Fix the horizontal beam at the level of the ceiling. It is more convenient to first install two extreme racks (vertical bars) and pull a cord between them. Then they install intermediate racks and check the evenness of the installation along the cord. If the floor is uneven, then something is also placed under the support bar in the right places (so that it is installed on the same level), and then all the other bars are set.

To align the racks, use scraps of plywood, fiberboard, wood of the desired thickness. The spacers can be covered with a little wood glue before hammering into the bars. Gaskets are also installed in cases where the ends of the bar lie tightly on the surface of the wall, and in any of its middle parts there is a gap (concave wall).

When deflecting over a large distance, the step between the dowels should be reduced in order to increase the rigidity of the bar.

If the room has a flat floor and if its area allows, you can simplify the process of mounting the frame. To do this, carefully measure the inner perimeter of the wall. Then a frame is assembled on the floor, the outer perimeter of which should be equal to the measured perimeter of the wall, minus 5 mm in length and 5 mm in height. Bearing bars are inserted into the resulting frame in increments of 600 mm, and they are fastened with nails driven through the frame into the ends, which is much more convenient. Since the assembled frame lies face down on a flat floor, when assembled, it will already have a flat surface. Therefore, the stage of leveling each beam is thus excluded. It remains only to insert the assembled frame into the perimeter of the wall and, having aligned their edges, fix them with dowels with screws or dowel-nails.

Marking for conventional (universal, etc.) dowels is performed using an electric drill. To do this, the bar is applied to the floor, or to the ceiling, or to the wall in the position in which it should be after installation. Having asked a partner to securely hold the bar in its original position, through holes are drilled in it in increments of 800-1000 mm so that the drill makes marks on the wall at the exit. The drill diameter should be equal to or slightly smaller than the diameter of the screws used. After that, the wall is drilled for the installation of dowels. The holes of the dowels after their installation exactly match the holes in the bar.

In the event that the fastening of the bars will have to be performed without a partner, then do so. Find the location of one dowel. A hole is drilled in the wall (floor, ceiling) under it, into which the dowel is installed. After that, the bar is fixed on one dowel and, holding it with one hand so that it does not move, through holes are drilled in the bar until a clear mark is obtained on the wall. After that, the bar can be removed or simply rotated around the axis of the installed dowel (after unscrewing a little screw) so that access to the marked places is opened. After that, holes are drilled and the rest of the dowels are installed.

It is most convenient to fasten the frame to a brick or concrete wall dowel-nails. The bar is applied to the wall in the appropriate position, through holes are drilled in it in increments of 800-1000 mm. Then change the drill and drill a hole in the wall. The diameter of the drill with a pobedit tip is determined by the diameter of the dowel.

The frame is fastened to a wooden wall using long galvanized nails.

Facing the walls of the room with drywall can be started either from the corner, or from the window or doorway. To fasten the sheathing to a wooden frame, use wood screws 35 mm long with a fastening pitch of 250 mm or galvanized nails (preferably special jagged ones) 40 mm long (for sheets 12.5 mm thick) with a fastening pitch of 200 mm. GCR is attached around the perimeter and to intermediate posts (see Fig. 47). The indent from the edges is the same - from the edge of the edge lined with cardboard at least 10 mm and from the edge of the unlined edge at least 15 mm. Work is carried out from the corner in two mutually perpendicular directions or from the middle to the edges. Nails are driven in until their heads are slightly below the paper surface. Neither the head of the nail nor the screw should tear the paper. There should be a space of 5-7 mm between the sheets of drywall for finishing the seams. A gap of 10 mm must be left between the floor and the end edges of the plasterboard sheets. Between the ceiling and the upper end edges of the plasterboard sheets, it is also necessary to leave a gap of 10 mm. All joints between sheets and holes from nails or screws must be puttied and cleaned.

If the length of the sheet is not enough to cover the entire room in height, the sheets, when facing, are placed with an offset of adjacent end joints (off-set), and transverse bars are mounted at the joints.

Wall cladding with plasterboard on a wooden frame produced, only in rooms with reduced or normal humidity. The technology of wall cladding on wood cannot be attributed to outdated technologies. It is actively promoted by the company Knauf and is recommended for wooden and brick houses of individual construction.

Wall cladding with drywall on a wooden frame - disadvantages

Wall cladding with drywall on a wooden frame has a number of disadvantages.

The frame is made of wooden beams, subject to decay. Over time, such wood cladding begins to warp and violate its integrity.
For the frame, you need to look for only a dry and absolutely even timber. And such a bar is not only hard to find, but also its considerable cost.

Despite the shortcomings, wall cladding on a wooden frame, both used and used, to this day. Needless to say, this is a rarity.

Preliminary work

Before facing the wall, lay all engineering Communication on a lined wall, namely, lay electrical wiring under the drywall and / or plumbing in the drywall structure (if any).
Wiring can be laid openly, in a corrugation or a box. Then, when installing the frame, it will be necessary to cut out places for electrical wiring and / and water pipes in the bars of the frame.

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Frame manufacturing

For the frame, a dry, even beam measuring 50 × 25 and 75 × 25 mm is used.
The 75x25mm beam should hit the edge of the gypsum board, and the 50x25 beam should support the sheet over the surface.
The timber frame is attached directly to the wall of the room. For fastening, nails are used (if the wall is wooden or plaster) or a dowel - nails (if the wall is concrete) or plastic dowels and screws (if the wall is brick).

If fastening standard drywall fasteners are used. Fasteners are made on dowels and screws, then the holes for fastening are drilled in advance. The distance between the fasteners is 500 mm.
When fastening on dowel-nails, the beam is drilled together with the wall and the dowel-nail is hammered into the hole. The distance between them is also 500 mm.
First, horizontal bars are attached, near the ceiling and near the floor. After fixing them, we move on to uprights. The first beam is attached to the corner.
For convenience and correct calculation, bars are first attached, which will fall on the edge of the drywall sheet. Their size is 75×25 mm. Since the width of the gypsum board is 1200 mm, the step between the bars should be 1200-1205 mm (with a single-layer cladding).

With a two-layer cladding, the number of bars 75 × 50 is doubled, and the second layer of drywall is attached to the frame with an offset of half the sheet, both vertically and horizontally.
Of course, you can not bother with buying different timber and for simplicity, buy a bar of the same size: 75 × 25 mm.
After fixing these bars, bars of 50 × 25 mm are attached between them. The step between them is 400 mm. With a two-layer cladding, the step between the uprights increases to 600 mm and their number decreases.

Wood frame processing

The finished wooden frame must be treated with an antiseptic composition. This treatment will increase the life of the frame and save it from decay.

Wood frame insulation

Before fixing drywall, you need to insulate the wooden frame. For insulation and simultaneous sound insulation, mineral wool-based heaters or polystyrene foam slabs or basalt slabs are used.

Plates are laid between vertical bars.

Frame vapor barrier

After laying the heat insulator, the frame must be closed vapor barrier film. The film should cover the entire frame structure. The vapor barrier is nailed to the bars with staples with a construction stapler.

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After fixing the vapor barrier, you can proceed to fixing drywall.

Fastening drywall sheets to a wooden frame

When attaching drywall sheets, the following rules are observed:

There should be a distance of 10 mm from the sheet to the floor and ceiling.
The distance between the sheet fixing screws must be 250 mm.

Some experts believe that a distance of 5 mm should be left between the sheets. It's too much. For puttying joints, it is better to buy a sheet of drywall with a thinned edge (UK) or make a chamfer on the edge of the sheet manually.
With a two-layer cladding, the sheets of the two layers are displaced both vertically and horizontally. The distance between the wooden posts is 600 mm, which corresponds to half of the plasterboard.

To maintain a 10 mm gap between the floor and the sheet, prepare the pads under the sheet in advance.

Technology for attaching a sheet to a wooden frame

Lay 10 mm of lining on the floor near the frame.
Bring the sheet of drywall up to the frame, lay the edge of the sheet on the spacer and lift the sheet.
Fasten the sheet with TB type screws with a drill on the end. Distance between screws 250 mm.

Of course, a strip will remain on the wall, on which neither half nor a full sheet of drywall will fit. In this case, cut the drywall sheet along the right size and attach it to the frame. When attaching drywall sheets, do not forget about the electrical wiring in the structure. Immediately cut round holes in the sheets for mounting boxes for concealed sockets or simply lead the wires out from under the cladding to install overhead sockets.

That's all! Wall cladding with plasterboard on a wooden frame is completed.

Plasterboard lining

Wall cladding with drywall is a practical and common way inside apartments and houses. GKL allows you to align walls and ceilings. A common method is when sheets are mounted on a frame made of wooden slats or metal profiles. If you need to save money or time, the question arises: is it possible to attach drywall directly to the wall? Yes, there are cases when the crate can be omitted. Alignment of walls with drywall without a frame is performed on almost even bases of various types. The photo below shows a room with plasterboard walls and ceilings.

Fastening drywall to a wall without a profile is best option on flat surfaces. An important role is played by the degree of deviation from the plane. Frameless way wall cladding is applicable if the differences do not exceed 5 cm. When they are larger, a crate is often installed.

Drywall is fixed on uneven planes using beacons. Thanks to this, the installation of sheets occurs immediately on the level. Without beacons, you can mount it, having a lot of experience, or in small areas.

You can control the degree of curvature of the base using building level and a long rule.

Existing methods of attaching drywall to a wall without a profile allow you to mount it on different types surfaces. It is possible to fasten sheets:

to a brick wall;
on partitions made of porous concrete, monolith, panels, limestone, shell rock, cinder block and plastered;
on wooden surfaces.

Installation of plasterboard on foam concrete

Gluing sheets on a foam concrete base is shown in the photo above.

Finishing walls with drywall without a frame and a profile is beneficial for the following reasons:

this method of finishing reduces the cost of material for the crate;
money is also saved on its installation (if it was planned to involve a specialist);
the volume of the room practically does not decrease;
terms are reduced facing works and the process is simplified.

The following requirements are imposed on surfaces that are planned to be sewn up with plasterboard sheets:

the base must be strong, smooth, without significant defects and fungus;
it is required that the wall surface be protected from moisture.

If the sticking method is used, then it is recommended to remove old paint, pollutants (dust, oil stains).

A big plus of finishing the walls with drywall without a frame with your own hands is that the process is faster and easier than if you need to pre-create the crate.

Preparatory activities

Before you fix this material to the wall without profiles, you should decide what thickness to choose drywall, prepare the required tools. Everything you need for different installation methods is presented in the table below.

Some of the tools and materials are used only for certain methods of installing GKL. Gypsum glue

The photo above shows a bag of gypsum glue used for drywall to glue it on.

In work, you can not do without a ladder, or other device for working at height.

Installation of drywall on walls without a frame requires compliance with a number of conditions:

the temperature during work should exceed +10 degrees, therefore, at its lower values, it is necessary to take care of the organization of heating;
it is necessary that the walls in the repaired room be dry;
in the presence of high humidity moisture-resistant types of facing material are used in the rooms;
before installation, it is recommended that the sheets lie in the room for 3 days;
the base for the installation of drywall must be integral, not fall apart, otherwise it will need to be pre-strengthened.

The quality of the result directly depends on how well the preparation was carried out. Thanks to the fact that everything necessary tools and materials will be pre-assembled, there will be no need to be distracted during work. Maintaining the required microclimate is a prerequisite during the finishing.

Methods for fixing GKL without installing a frame

In practice, several methods are used on how to level walls with drywall without a frame. They differ in the materials used for this and the technology of work. Using the frameless method allows you to sheathe the walls or ceilings of rooms and offices, directly fixing the sheets on their surface.

In practice, 2 options are used on how to fix drywall without mounting the crate. However, different materials are used. Here's how you can attach sheets:

self-tapping screws (for wood), or dowels;
glue, "liquid nails", polyurethane foam.

Application of mounting foam

The photo above shows the application of mounting foam to the sheet, in order to then fix it on the wall.

The general scheme of work for any installation method:

prepare the base;
fix drywall;
close up the joints.

Additional strengthening measures are not required. Installation methods can be combined with each other. So, the glued lining can additionally be fixed with self-tapping screws or dowels.

Depending on the variant of the subsequent cladding, the surface can be further puttied, and then sanded and primed.

The choice of one or another option is determined both by personal preferences, and evenness and the material from which the partitions are built. So, drywall to a concrete wall (smooth) is glued or fixed with dowels. The leveled wooden surface is sheathed using self-tapping screws.

Fixing method with self-tapping screws, dowels

Sheathing walls with drywall without a frame using self-tapping screws is possible if there is a base made of a suitable material for this: wood, foam concrete or gypsum. The workflow consists of the following steps:

existing protrusions are removed: wooden partitions are leveled by hewing them with an ax or a chisel with a hammer, and walls made of foam concrete (gypsum) with a puncher with an inserted chisel;
fix plasterboard sheets in increments of 25-35 cm, using a checkerboard pattern of their location on the surface of the base, with hardware 3.9x25 mm or 3.9x35 mm long (on a flat wooden surface) and 3.9x45 mm (on aerated concrete, gypsum).

Fixing drywall with self-tapping screws

After tightening with a screwdriver, the head of the self-tapping screw should be slightly “drowned” in the facing.

The photo below shows the process of fixing a plasterboard fragment on a wooden ceiling.

It should be borne in mind that a strong tightening of the hardware at the locations of the depressions causes deformation of the material. To avoid this, the sheets fall short, leaving a slight gap between them and the surface. The strength of the structure being created will not decrease.

When it is impossible to screw self-tapping screws into the wall (the base is made of concrete, brick, cinder block), then the walls are leveled with drywall without a profile, using driven dowels for installation. Their length with non-plastered surfaces should be 6x40 mm or 6x60 mm. If the thickness of the cladding layer exceeds 2 cm, then hardware 6x80 or 8x100 mm is used.

The technology consists of the following operations:

using a puncher or a hammer with a chisel, level the base, removing defective areas;
when the sheet is installed, then a hole is drilled through it;
insert the plastic part;
clog or twist a metal core, placing a washer under the hat;
thus, they sheathe the entire room, cutting the sheets if necessary.

The substrate for the head of the metal core can be made from a U-shaped fastening for the profile. To do this, it is cut into plates with metal scissors.

In places of depressions, the core is not finished off so that the sheet does not concave.

When all the sheets are attached, then proceed to sealing the seams. With even base surfaces, the use of hardware allows you to quickly sheathe a room or office space.

Gluing technology

To level the walls with drywall for glue, in addition to gypsum compositions, mounting foam and "liquid nails" are usually used. Home-made solutions are also used, for example, based on putty and PVA. At the same time, the techniques for applying the compositions to the surface of the installed material differ.

Before you start attaching drywall to the wall, you should prepare it in a special way. The process consists of the following steps:

work area is cleared of old finish(paint, wallpaper, defective plaster);
close up cracks;
apply two layers of primer;
dowels are hammered in the corners (self-tapping screws are screwed in);
using a plumb line or level, pull threads (thin ropes) between them;
in a selected square lying at an angle of 90 ° relative to the floor, surface irregularities are considered;
if deviations of more than 2 cm are detected, a substrate is prepared from fragments from the material being installed (a sufficient width of the pieces is 10 cm);
make markings for fixed drywall sheets on a wall without a frame.

When sketching the location of the fragments, the gaps between the edges of the plasterboard and the floor (0.7-1 cm), the ceiling (0.3-0.5 mm) are taken into account. Open areas (output of communications) are also taken into account when marking.

It is convenient to use a laser level for marking.

To attach drywall to a wall without a profile with deviations of more than 2 cm, it is recommended to install beacons. To do this, proceed as follows:

stretch the thread horizontally in increments of 50 cm;
under them (also after half a meter) glue beacons are applied;
control the thread level;
allow the beacons to dry before attaching the drywall to the unframed walls.

In the role of beacons, you can also use strips of gypsum board with a length along the height of the room, glued vertically every 50 cm. In addition to guiding functions, they serve as stops for leaning plasterboards.

Options for leveling the base by gluing GKL

The figure below shows the options for aligning walls of various curvature with plasterboard when it is mounted on glue.

waiting for the primer to dry completely;
apply fragmentary adhesive mass (height greater by 2 cm of the gap between back side GKL and base surface) at a distance of about 40 cm from each other over the entire surface of the sheet;
in the same way, cover the base with the composition;
press the plasterboard fragment against the wall;
knock it out with a rubber mallet so that it leans against the beacons.

Installation of GKL on adhesive compositions It is considered a more complex and painstaking way, compared with fixing with dowels (self-tapping screws). It is recommended to use deep penetration primers with antiseptic properties for surface treatment before gluing.

The use of mounting adhesive to fix drywall is demonstrated in the video below.

Installation using mounting foam is shown in the following video.

Application frameless methods allows you to both level the wall with drywall without a profile, and save money on work and material. The savings figure can reach almost 60% compared to frame option. Sheets fixed according to the selected technology will hold securely. At the same time, work on your own is easier and faster (especially on level ground) than using a crate.

Drywall - probably the most popular sheet finishing material for residential premises. Traditionally, it is mounted on a crate or frame made of bar or galvanized profiles. In this article, I'm going to talk about what it looks like attaching drywall to a wall without a profile.

Installation of moisture-resistant drywall on a wall without a crate.

Why drywall

pros

Why exactly GKL is used for leveling and rough wall finishing?

Here are the arguments in his favor:

Large sheet area reduces finishing time;

Reference: standard sheet GKL with a size of 2500x1200 mm has an area of 3 square meters. The sheet area of 3000x1200 is even more impressive - 3.6 m2.

Standard dimensions and weight of GKL.

Drywall is permeable to air and water vapor. This means that the room will not be stuffy even when closed windows. Of course, provided that the main walls have at least the same vapor and air permeability;

The vapor permeability of building envelopes must always increase from the inside out. Otherwise, instead of filtering water vapor into the street, the owner will receive its accumulation in the thickness of the wall. Humidification will contribute to a drop in thermal insulation qualities and a decrease in the service life of walls and ceilings.

Dependence of the state of enclosing structures on the vapor permeability of the layers of the wall, thermal insulation and finishing.

The price of a GKL sheet looks very attractive against the background of plaster. According to Crimean rates, plastering a square meter of a wall costs at least 400 rubles without the cost of materials. At the same time, a sheet of ordinary, non-moisture resistant drywall with an area of 3 square meters can be bought for 300 rubles. Its installation on the wall, unlike its plastering, does not require experience and special skills;
The GKL surface is compatible with any tile adhesives and is suitable for wallpapering on any wallpaper paste. Without exception, all putties also have excellent adhesion to kraft paper - the top layer of gypsum board;
From a related material - a gypsum fiber sheet, drywall compares favorably in that even with cracks in the gypsum core, two layers of kraft paper keep it in the same plane. The broken sheet can be used to level the walls, provided that the broken area is securely fastened.

This feature of the material is useful when assembling arches: GKL is notched and bent, then its surface is leveled with puttying.

Minuses

Does the GKL have disadvantages that it is useful for the buyer to know about?

I would politically correct call them not shortcomings, but features of the material:

All materials based on gypsum are not friendly with water. Yes, GKLV ( moisture resistant drywall) tolerates dampness well due to the low hygroscopicity of the core and antifungal additives in gypsum, however, direct contact with water is also contraindicated for him;

However: the problem is successfully solved by using water-impervious materials in the finishing of the premises. In my bathroom plasterboard walls and the ceiling are painted with rubber waterproofing paint, which allows them to carry constant contact with water splashes and occasional wet cleaning using any non-abrasive cleaners.

The wall above the tiled apron and the ceiling in the bathroom are painted with rubber water-dispersion paint.

GKL has a very limited strength. Accidentally hitting a drywall wall while carrying furniture, it can be broken through. To increase the strength of the partitions, their sheathing along the frame is usually made in two layers; however, mounting to a wall without a profile implies mounting the sheet only and exclusively in one layer;
On the drywall partition or a main wall after leveling the GKL, it is problematic to hang a shelf or cabinet. Of course, this problem also has a solution, which I will discuss in the corresponding section of the article; however, our material clearly loses in comparison with the main wall in terms of ease of installation of hanging furniture.

Cabinets are easier to hang on concrete or brick walls.

Mounting without profile

What is beneficial

Why do I need to install drywall on a wall without a profile?

There are at least two good reasons for this:

Reducing installation costs. The average consumption of gypsum glue Perlfix, which (running a little ahead) is used for mounting drywall on main walls, is 5 kg / sheet at a cost of a 30-kilogram bag from 285 rubles. Thus, the cost of installing one sheet (if, of course, all the work is done by hand) will be only 285/6 = 47.5 rubles;

Gypsum glue Perlfix. Packing - 30 kilograms, cost - from 285 rubles.

I will clarify: in practice, the consumption of glue can increase markedly with significant unevenness of the base. In addition, I did not take into account the cost of priming the wall (however, very insignificant).

At the same time, for mounting the same sheet on a crate made of ceiling profile needed:

Lathing for drywall made of galvanized profile.

At the most humane prices I found (they are offered by the Leroy Merlin online store), this set will cost about 250 rubles;

In addition, fixing drywall to the wall without profiles will significantly increase the free space of the room. Let's do one more simple calculation: find out how much space the frame will take up with an average distance from the wall to the GKL sheet of 5 centimeters and a room size of 4x5 meters.

The perimeter of the room is 4+4+5+5=18 meters; the total area of the gap between the wall and drywall is 18 m x 0.05 m = 0.9 m2. Almost 1/20 of the area of the room will be inaccessible for use only thanks to the crate.

If you glue the GKL directly on the walls, the cost of the usable area will be limited only by the size of the irregularities on the main wall (as a rule, no more than 5 - 10 mm).

Restrictions

How to find out if the plasterboard can be mounted directly on the wall?

It's simple: if the curvilinearity, blockage or differences in the wall do not exceed 5 centimeters, you can do without the crate. If the size of the irregularities is larger, it is still better to assemble the frame from the profile: the cost of funds and room space will be comparable or change in favor of mounting on the crate.

The long rule and the level will help to assess the curvature and blockage of the walls.

On which walls can drywall be mounted without crates?

Different ways of attaching drywall to a wall without a profile allow installation:

On the main walls and partitions made of brick, limestone, shell rock, concrete (panels and monolith), gas and foam concrete;
On wooden partitions (frame and plank, plastered and unplastered).

Partitions in stalinkas - plank, plastered on shingles.

Technology

For self-tapping screws

How to install drywall on a wooden partition in stalinka?

If it does not have significant irregularities, the gypsum board can be fixed with self-tapping screws directly to the wall surface. When decorating the walls in the kitchen of one of my old apartments, I did not even knock down the plaster; because of its thickness, I had to use self-tapping screws 70 mm long for fastening.

What screws to use?

Black phosphated. On wood or plasterboard - it doesn't matter: they differ only in the thread pitch. Self-tapping screws for GVL and drywall have a smaller pitch, due to which it is more difficult to push the sheet through with a hat.

1 - self-tapping screw for drywall and GVL, 2 - self-tapping screw for wood.

How to screw screws?

Only with a screwdriver - cordless or mains powered. After screwing hundreds of self-tapping screws onto one sheet of drywall with a screwdriver, hands feel, frankly, not very good.

Cordless drywall screwdriver.

Is it necessary to reinforce the seams with this installation method??

Necessarily, because with fluctuations in humidity and temperature, the geometry wooden partitions will inevitably change. How to do this, I will tell a little later.

How to level a wall with drywall without a profile if it is made of bricks or foam blocks? How to fix the GKL?

It can be attached:

To the one I already mentioned gypsum glue;
On the mounting foam;

Mounting foam has excellent adhesion to any surfaces.

If the base has irregularities of no more than 3-5 mm - on liquid nails or any other construction adhesive.

On glue

How to attach drywall to a wall without a profile using liquid nails ?

The base is cleaned from peeling plaster, dirt, glossy paint and other weak and low-adhesion coatings;
Protrusions with a height of more than 3-5 millimeters are removed with a chisel or perforator;
The wall is primed over the entire area with acrylic penetrating primer. It is necessary to primer twice without intermediate drying. The primer will stick the remaining dust and strengthen the surface, preventing the GKL from peeling off along with the top layer of the base. The primer is applied with a sprayer, a long-haired roller or a soft wide brush;

Primer of the main wall under the GKL sticker.

After the soil has completely dried, the recesses in the wall with a width of more than 10 centimeters are sealed with cement - sand mortar. You can use a home-made solution of Portland cement and sifted sand in a ratio of 1: 3, as well as any cement plaster or putty;
The seal after drying is re-primed;
After the soil has completely dried, glue is applied to the back surface of the drywall sheet in strips. The step between the strips is 10-15 cm;

So liquid nails are applied to the back surface of the sheet.

The sheet is pressed tightly against the wall and supported by several inclined boards at different heights.

On the foam

How to fix drywall with foam?

Foam differs from liquid nails and other building adhesives in two ways:

It perfectly fills all the recesses in the wall. If so, they can not be sealed - it is enough to remove protrusions with a height of more than 5 millimeters;
The foam expands upon setting. Therefore, we will have to fix the sheet against the wall for 30 - 60 minutes after it is pasted.

How to do it? Here is a simple instruction:

Putting the sheet against the wall and supporting it with a pair of inclined boards, mark and drill 8 holes for dowel screws measuring approximately 8x80 mm in the sheet and the wall at an equal distance from each other;
Apply foam on the back of the sheet - dotted with a step of 20 cm or stripes around the perimeter and inside the sheet;
Press the sheet against the wall and fix it with dowel screws. Their hats do not need to be heated below the surface level, as when mounted on a frame: after the foam has set, the screws can be removed or, conversely, screwed to the level of the main wall and hide the holes with putty.

Plasterboard slopes are planted on mounting foam and fixed with dowel-screws for the time of its setting.

The position of the sheet strictly in the vertical plane must be controlled by a long level or a rule and a plumb line. Dowel screws will not allow drywall to bend in the direction from the wall, and the expansion of the mounting foam will prevent bending in the opposite direction.

For gypsum glue

How to fix drywall on a wall without a profile on gypsum glue?

First of all: not only specialized glue (Perlfix, Volma Montazh, etc.) is suitable for this purpose, but also any gypsum putty or plaster. Their price is approximately equal to the cost of glue, adhesive qualities also practically do not differ.

Plaster or putty can successfully replace gypsum glue.

Work in this case also begins with the preparation of the wall. It must be cleaned of dirt, dust-free and primed with a penetrating acrylic primer twice.

The adhesive composition is prepared as follows:

Glue, plaster or putty is poured into a wide container with water at the rate of 1 liter per 1.6 kg of the mixture. They are as evenly distributed as possible over the surface of the water;

The dry mixture is poured into water. If you pour water into gypsum glue, a lot of dry lumps will remain at the bottom of the container.

Then the future glue is aged for 3-5 minutes. During this time, the maximum volume of the dry mixture should be saturated with water;
The mixture is mixed manually (with a spatula or trowel) or with a mixer. A drill with an appropriate nozzle will also work. Stir the mixture until a homogeneous consistency without lumps is obtained.

Glue can be applied with equal success both to the wall and to the sheet itself. It seems to me more convenient to apply to the wall: GKL already weighs 30 kg, and together with glue it becomes very massive and inconvenient to move. The glue should be applied in blotches in increments of 15 - 20 centimeters; a solid roller is needed only at the level of the plinth - it will significantly simplify its fastening with dowels and screws.

So gypsum glue is applied to the surface of the GKL.

Then the sheet is pressed against the wall and leveled using a level and a rule in a vertical plane. As a rule, he does not need additional fixation: the viscosity of the adhesive ensures the stability of the position. The position and bend of the GKL are corrected with light strokes of the palm or a rubber mallet.

By the way: I used the same method of fixing drywall when finishing door and window slopes. The final gypsum putty Eurogypsum was used as glue.

The slopes of the doorway in the photo are finished with drywall, planted on finishing putty Eurogips.

A couple of nuances:

When mounting adjacent sheets, special attention must be paid to the relative position of their edges. The differences will have to be removed with a thick layer of putty, which will unnecessarily increase the cost of money and time for finishing;

The edges of adjacent sheets must be strictly in the same plane.

On a curved wall with significant differences, it is worth first sticking beacons from GKL scraps on the same gypsum glue or putty. For the same purpose, dowel-screws partially screwed into the wall can also be used; the position of the sheet is corrected by screwing them in and out a few turns.

The sheets are aligned in the same plane with the help of improvised beacons.

Sealing and puttying

How to seal seams between adjacent sheets?

Drywall (even moisture resistant) has a certain hygroscopicity and slightly changes its linear dimensions with fluctuations in humidity. The same thing happens with temperature changes: thermal expansion has not been canceled. Periodic changes in the dimensions of adjacent sheets sooner or later lead to the appearance of cracks along the seams separating them.

A few years after finishing the room, cracks appeared at the seams without reinforcement.

So that the seams do not crack, they need to be reinforced. For this purpose, a sickle is traditionally used - a rolled self-adhesive glass mesh with a cell size of about 2 millimeters. It is glued along the seam, after which it is filled with putty directly through the mesh.

Reinforcement of the seam with sickle.

The seam is puttied in at least two passes. The cavity of the seam is filled with putty with the first pass, the fiberglass mesh reinforcing the seam is covered with the second pass. Sometimes a third pass is required: when drying, the putty shrinks slightly, but noticeably, and the seam after it has set looks concave.

The preparation and use of putty has several subtleties:

It is prepared in small batches. The specific size of a single serving of putty depends on your puttying skills. It seems to me convenient to use no more than one and a half kilograms of dry mixture at a time;

Putty is prepared in small portions. Lifetime ready mix does not exceed 30 - 40 minutes.

Wash dishes and spatulas before preparing each new serving. Otherwise, the old putty will form hard lumps in the solution. These lumps, when putty is applied to the GKL, will leave untidy furrows in it;
To fill the seam, it is convenient to use a spatula with a width of 10 - 12 cm. The seam is filled with sliding movements crosswise; in this case, both sides of it are filled with putty as evenly and densely as possible;

The edges of the sheets cut to size before puttying are cut with a sharp knife.

The second (covering) layer of putty is applied with movements along the seam with a spatula 30-35 centimeters wide. Putty is previously applied to it with a narrow spatula.

I prefer to reinforce the seam not with sickle, but with rolled fiberglass: due to the smaller thickness of the material, the seam stands out less on the surface of adjacent sheets. Fiberglass is denser than a mesh and does not allow filling a seam through it, so the reinforcement technology differs markedly from the one I described above:

The seam is filled with putty (taking into account its shrinkage during drying - twice);
Then fiberglass is glued along the seam. Glue - diluted with water in a ratio of 1: 1 PVA. It is applied to the fiberglass laid on top of the drywall scraps with a wide brush;

Rolled fiberglass. Due to its smaller thickness, it gives a more accurate seam compared to sickle.

It is more convenient to cut fiberglass for stickers in pieces about a meter long.

The reinforcing tape is pressed against the seam and smoothed out with a rubber or steel spatula. If you do it with bare hands, in the skin there will be a lot of the thinnest fragments of fiberglass. These splinters are not very painful and come out quickly, but they noticeably interfere with work;
After the glue has dried (it takes no more than an hour), the seam is covered with the final layer of putty and polished.

Do I need to putty the entire surface of drywall?

This is not required, but desirable. Putty creates a separating layer on the surface, which allows, if necessary, to peel off the wallpaper without peeling off upper layer kraft paper. In addition, puttying the surface will reliably mask the seams that stand out.

Plastering plasterboard walls.

It is convenient to use a special corner spatula to align the corners.

Puttying the surface is easiest to do in two layers “on a peel”: the putty is applied with a narrow spatula to a wide one and spread on the gypsum board with sliding movements as thin as possible. After drying the first layer, the operation is repeated again.

Between puttying drywall and painting walls with paint on water based must be at least two weeks. During this time, the remaining moisture will completely leave the seams. If you hurry with painting, the seams will stand out in a dark tone with any number of dye layers.

How to sand?

I use a vibrating sander for this purpose with sanding grids No. 80 (first pass) and No. 120 (second pass) fixed to it. Sanding is best with the brightest possible light, directed at an oblique angle to the surface: it will allow you to see the slightest irregularities due to cast or shadows.

Even an inexpensive vibrating grinder will greatly speed up the work compared to a hand grater.

Do not be too lazy to put on goggles and a gauze bandage or a respirator. Gypsum dust strongly irritates the eyes and mucous membranes.

Comrades! Do not neglect personal protective equipment!

Hanging furniture

How to fix a hinged shelf or cabinet on a wall pasted over with plasterboard?

If the wall is sheathed with GKL on self-tapping screws or pasted over with building glue, there will be no problems in principle: the sheet is tightly pressed against the wall, which makes it possible to use ordinary dowel-screws of increased length for installation.

Foam or gypsum glue means that there is a gap between the sheet and the main wall, allowing the drywall to be washed during installation.

At the stage of wall sheathing, the problem is solved in two ways:

In the place of the intended attachment of the hanging furniture, a continuous layer of gypsum glue, plaster or putty is applied to the back side of the plasterboard or to the wall;

The more often glue cakes are applied, the greater the load the lining will withstand.

The GKL section is cut out, and instead of it, a wooden embedded part of the appropriate thickness is attached to the wall with dowel screws or anchors.

The latter method will also work if the drywall is already fixed: it is enough to cut it with a sharp knife around the perimeter of the embedded part and cut out the gypsum glue with a chisel, after which the mortgage from a bar or thick plywood is attached directly to the wall.

Finally, to attach hanging furniture directly through the drywall and the gap between it and the main wall, you can use elongated anchors with a couple of additional threaded nuts. The fixing angles of the cabinets are clamped between these nuts.

To fasten the cabinet, it is enough to supply the wedge anchor with a couple of additional nuts.

For light shelves, Molly anchors can be used. They only stick to drywall.

Conclusion

I hope that my simple advice will help the dear reader in finishing his own home. As always, I would appreciate your comments and additions. Additional information will be offered to your attention by the video in this article. Good luck, comrades!

If you want to express gratitude, add a clarification or objection, ask the author something - add a comment or say thanks!

Not a single repair in our time is complete without drywall. Walls are constantly sheathed with this material, they are made from it various designs and they finish the ceilings. As a rule, for the installation of drywall sheets, a frame is pre-mounted on which the material is fixed. Increasingly, however, people are looking to attach drywall to a wall without a profile. What is it connected with? First of all, with the desire to save time, money and labor resources.

But can drywall be fixed directly to the wall? The question is ambiguous. Experienced craftsmen it is recommended to mount a metal or wooden frame and only then fix gypsum boards on it. However, at correct installation, you can install drywall on walls without a frame. Nevertheless, it is better to think it over several times, and if only if the solution has no alternatives to get down to business, since fixing the GKL without a frame just for the sake of saving can result in high costs in the future. You can fix drywall in this way, for example, if you are doing repairs in small rooms, such as bathrooms, toilets, balconies, then the frame will steal precious space.

One of the exotic ways to fasten drywall without a profile is to glue it on a mounting foam.

Conditions for fastening without profiles

In order to attach directly to the wall GKL or GVL, you need to follow a series necessary conditions, without which this procedure is simply impossible.

The wall should be vertical and perfectly flat, that is, not have any even the slightest slope. There are situations when the wall does not stand evenly enough and in such cases it is carried out, the frame is partially installed. Metal profiles in this installation option serve only as an equalizer for the wall.

The height of the room should not exceed the length of the drywall sheet. The problem here is that when installing drywall sheets, it is understood that the joints of different pieces of drywall will be located along transverse metal profiles. If you fasten the sheets directly to the wall, then you should not have transverse joints at all, since there will be nothing to fasten them to.

If the wall has minor irregularities from two millimeters to two centimeters, then there is an option to level it with a starting putty, in which ten to fifteen percent of gypsum must first be added. For fixing drywall, it is recommended to use ready-made adhesive mixtures. The mixture must be applied around the perimeter of the entire sheet, as well as in one continuous strip in its center.

If the irregularities are much larger, then plasterboard beacons can be used instead of frame profiles. They are drywall, cut into squares or rectangles of ten to twenty centimeters and serve to level the wall with drywall sheets without a frame.

After adhesive mixture dry, drywall sheets are again fastened with dowels in the corners and in the center. The dowels are fastened so that they go into the wall by at least forty millimeters.

After it was held final assembly sheets, you need to implement putty connecting seams, as well as glue the mesh.

Required Tools

For finishing, you will need some non-standard tools. It is better to prepare them in advance.

Knife, with replaceable blades for cutting drywall sheets;
Electric jigsaw or saw for working with drywall;
Strong thread. It will come in handy to create a plane level;
Nails or screws;
Building level;
Simple pencil;
Plumb;
Scraper to clean the edges of the drywall sheet;
Drill, whisk and bucket to dilute and stir the solution;
Putty knife. It is better to take two spatulas - wide and narrow;
Rubber mallet;
Ordinary hammer;
Pliers;
Phillips screwdriver.

Let's also look at the materials that will be used in the course of work.

Plasterboard sheets;
Glue, for working with plasterboard sheets. You can also use starting putty if you add ten percent of gypsum or PVA glue to it;
Water;
Primer;
Dowels. The size of each dowel should be from eighty to one hundred and twenty millimeters;
Serpyanka;
Glue.

Preparation for installation

If you are going to drywall a brick or concrete wall, then it must first be cleaned and sprayed with mortar. Then the surface needs to be primed. Soil must be diluted strictly in accordance with the instructions specified by the manufacturer. If it is written on the package that the primer is ready for use, then nothing needs to be diluted. You can immediately start processing the wall.

If preserved on the wall old plaster, it is tedious to carefully examine it in order to identify weak points and treat them with a solution, and then with a primer.

It is categorically impossible to attach drywall sheets to walls in rooms in which there is constant dampness. And also it is impossible to carry out this type of repair if condensation remains on the walls of the room. This will seriously damage the fastening of the sheets. In such rooms, it is necessary to use a special moisture-resistant drywall and fasten it only to the frame.

Before fixing drywall, it is necessary to inspect with the help of a level and a plumb line for deviations from the vertical and in the alignment. If it is possible, then all the convex places must be knocked down, and the depressions must be covered with mortar in order to perfectly level the surface before starting installation.

After priming, with a pencil or chalk, markings are applied to the wall. If you do this before priming, then all the drawings will simply wash off. Sheets of drywall, on the side of attachment to the wall, must also be lubricated with a primer before attachment. Lighthouses need to be cut out of drywall sheets and lubricated with a primer on both sides.

If this is necessary, the next step in the installation is the installation of electrical wiring. In cases where the wire must pass on the ledges of the wall, it must be drowned in drywall. To do this, you will have to make special grooves in the sheet.

Mounting on flat and curved surfaces

If the wall surface is relatively flat, then beacons will not have to be used. Use a mixer to mix dry powder in water to make glue. If you do not have a mixer, then you can make the glue by hand, but then the process will take much more time and effort.

If you decide to add PVA glue to the putty, then first you need to dilute the glue in water, and only then pour the dry powder. If you do the opposite, then the putty will harden very quickly and turn into a stone. Naturally, after that, it can no longer be used for its intended purpose.

Apply glue to drywall sheets in one continuous strip around the entire perimeter on all edges. In the center of the sheet, you also need to apply several cakes from the solution in a checkerboard pattern. The distance between the cakes should be about forty centimeters. To make the fastening sufficiently reliable, you need to glue more than a tenth of the surface of the drywall sheet with glue.

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA

Attach the sheet to the wall strictly vertically. It must be attached and pressed against the wall. It is best if someone will help you with this, since it is problematic to do this process alone. Check how firmly the sheet is attached. If you have any doubts, then press it harder on those places where the lag occurs. Just enough solution is applied to the sheet to allow for this post-adjustment. If the solution is not enough, then theoretically the sheet can be peeled off, but it is better to avoid such situations, since the plasterboard sheet can simply break during the peeling process.

If the wall is tilted or rotated, then beacons will have to be used. Use a strong thread to make a net indicating the desired verticality and flatness. Next, the beacons are installed in the right places. You need to install them so that they touch the thread frame. Then drywall sheets are attached in the same way as in the first version. After that, fix the problem areas with dowels, and seal the seams with putty and sickle.

If you attach drywall sheets to a wooden wall or ceiling, then everything is much easier. To install such a sheathing, it is enough to fasten the sheets to the wall with self-tapping screws or screws. If the wooden wall is not even, then this is corrected by applying additional wooden lining, and all the bulges can be removed with an ordinary planer.

As you can see, there are different ways to install drywall sheets, but the most reliable way GKL installation - installation on a metal frame. Only in this way will the sheets hold firmly enough.

Successful perception of the repair and construction work carried out. Even the most sophisticated finishing materials will lose all their gloss against the background of depressions or bumps in wall planes. Therefore, the alignment of the walls during the repair can be considered a priority. For its implementation, drywall is the best suited.

GKL, as a finishing material, does not need special advertising. Moisture-resistant, ordinary, fire-resistant - for any room you can choose drywall of the required quality. For bathrooms - moisture resistant, for the corridor - fire-resistant, common for living rooms.

Standard sizes 600x1250, 1200x2000, 1200x2500, 1200x3000 allow the use of this material with virtually no waste. After minimal processing, the surface of the sheets is ready for wallpapering and applying textured plaster, and laying tiles.

There are two ways of fastening the GKL to the walls - frame and frameless.

The first option is much more suitable for large rooms, where there is no space limit. The profile frame and the drywall mounted on it take at least 40 mm of the floor and ceiling from each wall (27 mm - profile + 12.5 mm - GKL).
The frameless method allows you to fix drywall sheets directly to the vertical surfaces of a room or office. In addition to saving space, this method is more profitable from an economic point of view. The financial component of the frame is 60% of the cost of walls assembled from plasterboard.

There are three options for frameless installation of drywall sheets on walls:

Fastening sheets with self-tapping screws.
Installation of plasterboard dowels.
Gluing drywall.

Preparatory work

Before proceeding with the alignment of the walls with drywall sheets, it is necessary to make general analysis proposed activities and choose a method for their implementation.

The overall assessment of the situation includes:

Checking the verticality of the walls. Produced using a level or plumb.
Inspection of the plane of the walls. It is performed with a long rule, or with a stretched cord. The presence of bumps and depressions is revealed.
Checking outside and inside corners. It is carried out in order to determine deviations from geometric correctness (often it is 90 degrees). The tool is most often a square.
Assessment of door and window openings. A check is made vertically and horizontally and the need to adjust the openings with the help of GKL is determined.

Depending on the identified deviations and the condition of the walls, the alignment method is selected. Small errors can be completely eliminated by fixing drywall sheets directly on existing walls. Large drops and irregularities will require either a frame or GKL installation on a special glue.

Installation of drywall sheets with self-tapping screws

This installation option is possible only if there is a base into which self-tapping screws can be screwed. It can be wood, aerated concrete blocks or plaster partitions.

Preliminary preparation for installation work will consist in the removal of protruding sections of the wall plane. tubercles wooden base leveled with a hammer and chisel, it is also possible to use a hatchet. Foam concrete and gypsum partitions are easiest to process with a puncher with a chisel.

Sheets of drywall are attached in a checkerboard pattern. Hardware for fastening are wood screws. The screw length varies depending on the wall material. For relatively even cladding wooden surface self-tapping screws 3.9x25 and 3.9x35 mm are suitable.

Self-tapping screws 3.9x45 mm are used for mounting GKL on aerated concrete and gypsum partitions. When tightening the screws, it is necessary to monitor the depth of the recessed head of the hardware. It is considered normal if the screw is immersed in drywall by 1 - 2 mm. The fastening step is about 250 mm at the edge of the sheet and 250 - 350 mm at its center.

Particular attention should be paid to the attachment points of the GKL in the areas - depressions. Strongly tightened self-tapping screws simply deform drywall. As a result, it will exactly repeat the relief of the uneven walls.

In such cases, it makes sense not to reach the hardware, leaving a small space between the base and the sheets. This will not greatly affect the strength of the structure, but the number of layers of putty for leveling will significantly reduce.

GKL fastening with dowels

If it is not possible to screw self-tapping screws into walls and partitions, then drywall can be mounted on dowels. For non-plastered brick, concrete and cinder block bases, driven dowels 6x40 or 6x60 mm are used. When the walls are plastered, and the plaster layer reaches 20 mm, you will have to use hardware 6x80 and even 8x100 mm.

The preparation of seats for the installation of dowels is carried out by a perforator with a drill of the appropriate diameter. The hole is drilled through a sheet of drywall installed in place. The plastic clip should have a “sweat” ending.

It is advisable to tighten the metal core with a screwdriver or screwdriver. Sometimes it is impossible to tighten the self-tapping screw and you have to resort to the help of a hammer. In this case, it is advisable to put a homemade washer - a gasket under the screw head. Such washers can be made from a U-shaped bracket for plasterboards. To do this, the bracket is cut with scissors for metal into several plates, and a self-tapping screw is threaded into the existing holes.

As in the case of mounting sheets on self-tapping screws, depressions on the plane of walls and partitions can become a problem. The recipe for elimination is to not pull the dowel core all the way.

Installation of drywall on the adhesive mixture

Such an assembly is the most difficult and painstaking way to level walls with drywall without a frame. Installation is carried out in the following order:

Inspection of the leveled surface. Includes the definition of protruding places of walls and piers. In these areas, the amount of adhesive applied will be minimal. Identification of areas with swollen plaster and putty. Such places will need to be cleaned up.
Surface preparation for installation. Mechanical removal of old wallpaper, tiles, loose plaster. Notching sections of walls covered with oil or pentaphthalic paints.
Priming of walls and partitions. As a primer, it is better to use a deep penetration primer. For areas covered with paint, concrete contact can be used.
Installation of beacons. The main task of such an event is to create points of support for the back side of the GCR. Lighthouse marks can be plastic clips of dowels with self-tapping screws screwed into them. The heads of the hardware should create a plane on which the drywall will be mounted.
Installation of drywall sheets. A special adhesive mass is applied both to the wall and to the plasterboard. The glue is applied not in a continuous layer, but in fragments. The distance between such fragments is 30 - 40 cm. The height is 15 - 20 mm more than the gap between the base and the back of the drywall. The sheet is pressed against the wall, and the correctness of its installation is checked by a rule with a level.

Despite the fact that there is currently a way to install drywall on a metal profile frame, many people prefer to mount this finish on a wooden crate.

It is preferable if you need to mount a single-level ceiling or just sheathe a wall. This method is cheaper, dried in a chamber does not deform, perfectly withstands such a load and is able to reliably serve for many years. In addition, such installation is simple, and it is chosen by those who lead the plasterboard sheathing on their own.

Installation of a rack frame for a suspended ceiling

1 Preparatory work.
Before the beginning installation work the lowest point of the ceiling is visually determined. Its design position is marked from it: 5 cm retreat, and with the help of a level, a horizontal line is drawn around the perimeter. If the work is done correctly, then the start and end points should match. A rail is attached along this horizontal with the help of self-tapping screws around the entire perimeter.
2 Installation of longitudinal rails.
Next, you need prepare longitudinal slats for the crate. The profile is chosen from 30 * 40 to 50 * 70 cm. The finished length of each should be 1 cm less than the length of the ceiling. They are screwed with self-tapping screws at an equal distance from each other. Possible curvature of the ceiling surface is eliminated either by squeezing the rail, or small pieces of thick cardboard are placed in the cavities. Longitudinal rails are fastened with self-tapping screws to the ceiling surface.
3 Lathing installation.
For wooden framing choose slats dried in a special drying chamber. This completely eliminates the possibility of their deformation. It must be remembered that the raw material, when dried, can lead to the loss of self-tapping screws from the body of the wood. If the material good quality, then slats are fixed in increments of 50 to 70 cm. For regions with a humid climate or if the room is not well ventilated, step is better to reduce to 40cm. It is not worth saving on self-tapping screws. In any case, reliable fastening of the frame rails to the ceiling will provide you with a long and trouble-free operation of the structure in the future.
4 Installation of longitudinal rails for connecting drywall sheets.
Suitable size for work - 25 * 80 mm. The sheet fits comfortably on the wide side. In addition, it guarantees the reliability of the installation. It is necessary to mark the future location of the rails in such a way that the joint of the drywall sheets falls in their middle. After that, the electrical cables are laid and the installation of drywall begins.

With us you can install drywall only from high-quality lumber. It has undergone special drying in chambers, so its surface is dense with the required moisture level of 12-14%. The rails do not deform and easily withstand loads in quality load-bearing frame. Perform installation on wooden slats simple, reliable and fast.

Working with us, you get the opportunity to purchase excellent goods at the lowest price and repair your home at no extra cost.