Installation of tongue-and-groove plates instruction. Features of installation of tongue-and-groove partitions made of gypsum boards: step-by-step instructions and expert advice

Groove blocks are a building material that is used for the installation of interior partitions. They are produced from gypsum during low-temperature processing of natural gypsum, therefore their second name is gypsum boards. This building material is characterized by high dimensional accuracy.

Types of tongue-and-groove blocks

There are ordinary and moisture resistant gypsum boards. The gypsum board groove can have a trapezoidal or rectangular shape. There are full-bodied and hollow gypsum boards. For the construction of walls inside rooms with dry or normal humidity conditions (apartments, hotels, offices, schools, industrial buildings), ordinary gypsum boards are used, and for rooms with high humidity, moisture-resistant gypsum boards are used. The composition of moisture-resistant gypsum boards includes hydrophobic additives.

Gypsum boards are a very cost-effective building material. And thanks to the high quality of their front surface, there is no need to spend a lot of money on finishing work. A gypsum board wall can be wallpapered, painted or tiled with ceramic tiles.

Plasterboard installation is very simple and easy. And due to the low price, the use of gypsum boards gives a significant advantage over the construction of interior walls made of bricks in apartments or cottages. Another advantage of gypsum boards is their resistance to fire.

How to mount tongue-and-groove blocks

In order to build one square meter of a partition, 5.5 gypsum blocks and approximately 1.5 kg of glue are required. In order to enhance sound insulation in the place where the partition adjoins the wall, use a cork gasket. If there are no strict requirements for sound insulation, then the blocks can be mounted to the enclosing structures directly on the adhesive solution.

First, the surface on which the partition of tongue-and-groove blocks will be built is cleaned of dust and dirt. It is built before the installation of a clean floor. Then markup is done - using a cord or laser level. Marks are transferred to the walls with a plumb line. In the event that the floor is uneven, a leveling layer must be applied. Laying can be done no earlier than in a day.

Before starting installation, it is necessary to prepare an adhesive solution, which was advised by the manufacturer of gypsum boards (usually it is quite affordable). To do this, the dry mixture must be poured into a bucket with the required amount of water. Then mix thoroughly and leave for 2-3 minutes. It must be taken into account that the viability of the composition is only 1 hour, and the consumption of glue per 1 m2 of masonry is only 1.5 kg.

Foreman's advice: When mixing glue, use only a clean container and clean cold water.

In order for the blocks in the masonry to interlock better, they must be laid with the groove up. To do this, the comb is removed from the tongue-and-groove blocks of the lowest row of masonry. The laying of the first row is done according to the level and carefully aligned in one plane. When laying the next rows, the adhesive is applied and distributed over the grooves of the already laid row. The vertical seam of each tongue-and-groove masonry block must also be filled with adhesive. The thickness of the seams should not exceed 2 mm. During installation, the gypsum blocks in the masonry are settled with a rubber mallet. Laying is done in a run - at least a third of the length. Additional elements are easily obtained using a hand plate. The elements of the last row of masonry are sawn at an angle so that there are no voids between the partition and the ceiling.

Foreman's advice: if there are potholes on the tongue-and-groove blocks, then they need to be filled with putty.

If it is necessary to make an opening in the partition, the width of which does not exceed 800 mm, and above which there is only one row of masonry, then it is not necessary to install a jumper. In this case, it will be enough to install and leave a support in the opening until the glue dries.

If the width of the opening exceeds 800 mm, then a metal or wooden jumper must be installed above the opening. To give the outer corners of the structure additional rigidity, you need to strengthen them with a metal profile. Internal corners can be reinforced with reinforcing tape.

Installation of gypsum boards can be carried out not only by a professional, but also by a novice builder. At the same time, an experienced worker can make 20 m2 of wall per shift.

Foreman's advice: when fastening objects that exert a slight load (mirrors or bookshelves) to a wall of tongue-and-groove blocks, wedging corrosion-resistant dowels can be used. When installing hanging cabinets or sanitary ware, corrosion-resistant bolts must be used that penetrate the wall through.

Gypsum boards are an affordable, profitable building material for building walls indoors. To build a wall of gypsum boards, you do not need special knowledge, you just need to watch a detailed video of laying gypsum blocks.

Video

The installation of tongue-and-groove plates for the installation of partitions has its advantages. This material has a convenient configuration, relatively low weight, which greatly simplifies the installation work. Also, the plates are equipped with a special lock, which ensures their secure fastening.

Important! The arrangement of interior partitions with the help of tongue-and-groove plates occurs very quickly (almost in a matter of hours). To achieve such a speed of installation, you need to have a lot of experience and perfect knowledge of technology.

The cost of building walls from tongue-and-groove slabs at San Sanych

If you are looking for masters for installing walls from tongue-and-groove blocks, pay attention to our company. We have been working in Moscow for a long time and have received many positive reviews. This happened due to a responsible approach to the performance of all operations. We carefully listen to the wishes of the customer and fulfill them in accordance with the requirements of regulatory documentation. Only trusted companies that provide the best quality at a low price are engaged in the supply of building materials directly to the site. The cost of installation work will definitely pleasantly surprise you. Prices mainly depend on the amount of labor and materials used.

Preparatory stage

Preparing the premises for the installation of tongue-and-groove blocks is as follows:

the floor and walls in the places where the future partitions fit must be perfectly even. Otherwise, the desired quality cannot be achieved;
all existing irregularities are eliminated by pouring the screed, grinding. Also, without fail, cracks are closed on the base;
the surface of the walls, ceiling and floor is primed;
markings are applied that reflect the location of the future wall.

Block stacking

Before installing the first row of plates that are intended for this, cut off the legs. This will ensure that they are firmly attached to the floor. To fix the tongue-and-groove plates, a special adhesive composition is used. It is applied to all their ends in order to securely fasten them together. Also, a special lock is used for this, which implies the presence of grooves on the surface of the blocks. After installing the first row, it is fixed to the wall and to the floor with dowels. Further installation continues in the same way.

The tongue-and-groove plate is a gypsum rectangle with grooves and ridges along the perimeter. The advantages of a PGP partition compared to a brick partition are the quick installation that does not require the skill of a bricklayer. The vertical surface of the wall, thanks to the grooves / ridges, will be almost perfect, excluding subsequent plastering. There is also no need to mix a large volume of masonry mortar. For an average partition of 20 squares, one bag of Knauf gypsum mixture is enough. So let's get started.

Marking the first row of an interior partition made of PGP

The most time-consuming is the breakdown of the dimensions of the future partition, the marking of the openings and the scrupulous alignment of the first row, taking into account the horizontal and vertical.

First, prepare all the plates for the first row. We lay out the blocks on a dry one along the entire length of the future wall, check the dimensions, draw a single common line at the base of the plates along the length with a marker, use a laser level.

The slab is placed with the comb up, respectively, the groove in the lower part of the slab is cut down with a pick to the base, then it is polished with a planer for stability.

The part of the plates marked with a dotted line is removed.

Partition masonry

If the floor surface is not even or there is no floor screed at all, it is more expedient to level the first row by installing blocks on a cement-sand mortar, since the gypsum mixture quickly sets. It is better to knead the gypsum mixture (glue) in small quantities for a maximum of 5-10 boards.

The consistency of the glue, like thick sour cream, is applied with a spatula in a thin layer (no more than 5 mm) along the vertical and horizontal edges of the plate with a quick movement, wiping the glue towards itself with the flat of the spatula. We seal the seams by gently tapping the plate with a rubber mallet. We seal the seams with squeezed glue and cover up minor chips and cracks.

If we start laying the partition with a whole slab, then the next half will go to dressing the seams.

Be sure to fasten it with self-tapping screws to the outer wall through a row and connect the partition of the tongue-and-groove plates with galvanized mounting corners.

The corner is placed for rigidity along the edge of the plate, sinking into the groove with a chisel or a hacksaw. We fix the corner with the next row.
Do not forget to control the verticality and horizon of each slab with a level, correcting the slab or upsetting it, if necessary, using a bar and a rubber mallet.

Gypsum slabs are malleable and are sawn with an ordinary hacksaw when halves, quarters, pieces are needed for doorways, corners or lighthouses.

Work with a hacksaw will be enough, therefore, in order not to bother yourself with endless sawing, I advise you to make a 1.5-2 cm file on both sides. Put the plate with a file on the edge of a stack of plates or a goat, and lifting it up, holding it, release it without effort. The fracture, if necessary, is polished with a planer.

As the partition is erected, instead of a lintel, we block the doorway with a bar with a thickness close to the width of the plate. We fasten the bar to the GWP with self-tapping screws obliquely.

Door opening device

Depending on the size of the door and the spread of the corners, it is not always possible to make an opening from HWP. Sometimes it is necessary to use other materials to adjust the size of the doorway without compromising the area of \u200b\u200bthe room.

In this case, a brick was used, installed "on the butt" on a cement mortar. The ends of each brick are tied with a large nail driven into the slab and fixed with the next brick. Additional rigidity of the structure will be given by the subsequent puttying of the partition with a fiberglass mesh.

Above the jumper, to facilitate the construction, a plasterboard finish will go.

To facilitate the process of arranging the opening, and if the door can be positioned arbitrarily, then we build a solid wall, and subsequently, after a day or two, we cut the opening with a reciprocating jigsaw, focusing on the dressing seams.

We complete the construction of the partition from the tongue-and-groove plates with the last row under the ceiling. We cut the blocks of the last row along 1-1.5 cm less than the required height for foaming with mounting foam.

Conclusion

On the Internet, opinions on GWP partitions are divided. In my opinion, the benefit for the customer is obvious. Subject to the accuracy of the breakdown of the first row, the presence of one's own desire, patience and a partner, a partition made of tongue-and-groove plates with one's own hands can be erected quickly without much effort.

When remodeling an apartment or building a private house, you have to install new partitions. Finding material for them is not so easy. It should not create an excessive load on the ceiling, it should be reliable and have a good bearing capacity. And it is also desirable that the installation is simple and fast, and the price is low. There are not so many materials and technologies that meet these requirements. This is the tongue-and-groove slabs. In this article we will talk about the tongue-and-groove.

What is this material and its types

Tongue-and-groove slabs (abbreviated as GWP) or blocks are large-format building material for the construction of partitions in the form of a slab, on the ends of which a comb (thorn) and a groove are formed. Hence the name - tongue-and-groove slabs. They are:

Plasticizers and hydrophobic (water-repellent) additives are added to the solution to improve the properties. Gypsum GWP has another name - gypsum boards. It is understandable: the gypsum mortar is poured into molds. Here is the "source" of this variant of the name.

Moisture resistance and void

According to the area of use, tongue-and-groove slabs can be intended for normal operating conditions (normal, standard) or for wet rooms (moisture resistant). Moisture resistant for the best identification are tinted in greenish color.

Both gypsum and silicate tongue-and-groove slabs are solid and hollow. Solid ones are more durable, hollow ones, due to their lower weight, create less load on the floors. The choice between solid and hollow should be made based on several factors:

Soundproof characteristics. A monolithic material without voids conducts sounds better, so it is used if the sound insulation will be made in a separate layer (the best option) or if it is not so important.
Partition loads. If you need to hang shelves, furniture on the walls, fix some heavy objects, it is better to use a monolith.

If you need to consider several factors, soundproofing is considered last. It is possible to increase noise protection using a special mounting technology (on vibration-damping pads), as well as by making an additional layer of sound-proofing materials.

Specifications

If we compare ordinary and moisture-resistant tongue-and-groove plates, the differences in characteristics are only in water absorption and strength. Moisture resistant, due to the large number of hydrophobic additives, they almost do not absorb moisture. Due to the large number of these additives, they are more expensive, since these additives are expensive. At the same time, they increase strength (M50 compared to M35).

By the way, you can check “on the spot” whether you really have moisture-resistant GWPs or just standard ones painted green. Just pour some water on the surface. Standard plates will quickly absorb it, and on water-repellent ones it will stand in a puddle for a long time.

If we compare gypsum and silicate partition blocks, the increased strength of the latter immediately catches the eye - M150 compared to M50 and M35. That is, the strength of silicate slabs is comparable to concrete of not the worst brand. If you are going to hang something very heavy on the partition, it is better to use silicate. Manufacturers also produce blocks with a thickness of 115 mm, which are called inter-apartment.

How else do silicate boards differ from gypsum counterparts? The fact that in the standard version they do not have such a high absorbency. It is not as low as moisture-resistant blocks, but this material can be used without problems in any wet areas (13% compared to 26-32%). The disadvantages of this material are greater weight (with equal dimensions) and lower thermal insulation characteristics.

silicate or gypsum?

If we compare the soundproofing characteristics of gypsum and silicate blocks, the latter, with equal parameters, conduct sounds worse (40-43 dB for gypsum and 48-52 dB for silicate). So for better sound insulation we choose silicate.

But silicate blocks of the same size have more weight and higher thermal conductivity (conduct heat better). The key in choosing is weight, since sound and heat insulation can be improved with the help of additional layers of special materials, but there is no way to reduce the weight of the partition. And if its mass is critical for overlapping, nothing good can be expected.

How to build from tongue-and-groove slabs

In order for a partition made of tongue-and-groove blocks to be reliable and stable, certain conditions must be met:

In general, it is necessary to strictly follow all the recommendations, strictly follow the technology. Then tongue-and-groove partitions do not differ in strength and reliability from brick ones, but are built many times faster.

markup

The laying of the partition wall from the tongue-and-groove begins with the markings. If you have a laser plane builder, everything is simple: you unfold the plane, draw lines on the floor, walls, and ceiling. If there is no such tool, you will have to spend more time. A plumb line will be required. The one that does not fit in a smartphone is not a measuring tool. It is better to buy at a hardware store or make from twine and a centered weight.

We draw the first line on the ceiling, with the help of a plumb line we transfer it to the floor. By connecting the points on the floor and ceiling, we get the lines on the walls. As a result, a closed marking was formed to align the partition.

We examine the base on which we will put the blocks. It should be perfectly aligned when viewed along the dividing line, and should not lean forward or backward when viewed across.

If there are door or window openings in the partition, they must also be marked. With the door, everything is simple - we designate them on the floor. It is more difficult with window ones - beacons are needed on the walls and ceiling.

Foundation preparation

As already mentioned, the base must be perfectly flat without a roll in any direction. If there are deviations, we pour a leveling screed on the concrete floor (not lower than M150). To do this, you will have to assemble the formwork into which the solution is poured. The minimum layer thickness is 3 cm. To get a guaranteed quality result, use a self-levelling compound. Just keep in mind that “they level themselves” are not too large errors. You still need to distribute the composition manually. Just run with a spatula, dispersing the solution along the entire length, and small irregularities are leveled due to the increased fluidity of the material.

We cover the poured concrete with polyethylene, leave it for about a week. This is if the temperature in the room does not fall below + 20 °, during this time it will gain 50% strength. This means that you can work with him. If the temperature is lower, the period increases. At a temperature of 17 ° C and a little lower, 2 weeks are already needed ... We coat the even base with concrete contact - it will improve the adhesion of the base with the adhesive composition, on which we will put the GWP.

If we put tongue-and-groove blocks on a wooden floor, the partition should pass over the beam - this is the time. Second - we level the base with a dry beam. It must be fixed so that it is also aligned horizontally in all directions. We fix the beam to the floor with nails or screws. If there is a joint, we connect it into half a tree, additionally smearing the joint with wood glue and fastening it with nails.

To improve sound insulation

The main disadvantage of gypsum tongue-and-groove partitions is not too high sound insulation. For silicate blocks, the situation is better, but also not ideal. Therefore, we recommend laying vibration-damping tape along the perimeter of the partition. It's no secret that most of the sounds are transmitted through vibrations through the floor, ceiling and adjoining walls and elastic pads greatly improve the situation.

Under tongue-and-groove slabs, you can use a strip of bituminous felt or cork with a density of 250-300 kg / m³. The strip width is slightly less than the width of the blocks. It is laid on a leveled base on the same binder that you will use to seal the joints between the plates. The solution is applied to the surface treated with concrete contact (after drying) with a layer of 2-3 mm. Lay the tape, rolling it with a roller, expelling air bubbles. The emerging solution is removed with a spatula. Thus, the tape is glued to the floor, walls, ceiling. Horizontalness is checked using a bubble level.

Preparation of plates for installation

If silicate tongue-and-groove boards are used, no preparation is required - their upper and lower surfaces do not have a groove / ridge. They are absolutely even (as in the photo below).

When working with a gypsum tongue-and-groove, first you need to decide whether you will place the blocks with a spike or a groove up. It is more convenient to work when the groove is directed upwards, but the opposite position is not a mistake either.

If you decide to put the GWP up with a groove, you need to cut the spike on all blocks of the first row. The easiest way to do this is with a hacksaw. The resulting cut is uneven. We level it with a planer.

Note! The cut of the plate must be absolutely even. It depends on how strong the wall of tongue-and-groove plates will stand. And the trimmed tongue-and-groove plates should be of the same height.

The seam between the blocks does not exceed 2 mm, so even small deviations are almost impossible to correct. Therefore, we align carefully and carefully. After leveling, the dust is swept with a brush and you can begin to build a wall.

First row

The sequence of actions when laying a wall of tongue-and-groove slabs is simple and very similar to a brick one. There are only a few features. Since the partition usually adjoins the wall, if a spike turns out to be turned to it, it is cut off with a saw, the surface is leveled with a planer, and dust is removed. Next, the procedure is as follows:

Thus, the entire row is built. The last slab usually has to be cut. It could be the beginning of a doorway or just the last slab in a row. Its length should be 3-4 mm less than the remaining gap - the seam gap. You should not increase the gap - stability will decrease. For greater confidence, the joint can be reinforced with a metal corner. Two or three corners for each row. It's enough.

Second and subsequent

The tongue-and-groove slabs are laid with a spacing of seams - like bricks. The shift of the second row can be half or a third of the length. The best option is half. We cut off half of the whole plate, if necessary, cut off the spike, install it. Further laying is no different. The third row again starts with a whole block, the fourth - with a half, etc.

After laying each block, check whether it is correctly positioned. With such block sizes, the error accumulates very quickly. Therefore, we first check each delivered block with a level for verticality / horizontality. and then, applying the bar horizontally, grabbing neighboring blocks and swiping from top to bottom, we look so that there are no gaps. We also check the absence of deviations in the vertical plane.

Control of verticality and horizontality is one of the main tasks

Injection

If the wall being erected from tongue-and-groove blocks has an outer corner, we start laying from it. To make it easier to work, we create a corner support. It can be a corner with fairly wide shelves or two boards connected at 90°C. We put the structure in place, check the correct installation, temporarily fix it to the ceiling and floor.

At one of the plates, we cut off the side spike, rest its edge against the set stop, align it, setting the direction with a mallet. At the second plate, we also cut off the side spike, apply glue to this edge, join it with the side surface of the installed plate, knock it into tight contact (the diagram in the figure above).

To install the second row, it is necessary to make a cut in the already installed plate under the lower spike of the next block. We take a hacksaw for metal, we make files. Then, using a wall chaser (a tool for working with foam concrete, but it is also useful for laying wiring in the GWP) or any solid tool, we remove the excess, align the groove, making it the same size and shape as the groove. Using a brush or construction vacuum cleaner, remove dust.

We put the second row starting from the other side - so that the seam is on the other side of the corner. We apply a solution to the end of the lower block. We take half of the block, cut off the side spike, install the lower one into the prepared groove (the rightmost diagram in the figure below). He, too, must rest against the established corner. We carefully align the installed tongue-and-groove plates, checking the verticality and the absence of even the slightest deviations.

Branch

It is also necessary to consider a branch from the partition at a right angle. Partitions will be more reliable if they are made with dressing (middle diagram in the figure). All three plates that are installed have a side spike cut off. The joints are coated with adhesive, three blocks are adjusted close to each other with a mallet. In this case, it is also necessary to control that the partition is perpendicular - that is, the angle is 90 °.

We build the second row so that the middle of the block is above the junction. To install it, you will also need to make a groove in the protrusions of the lower block. Further, these rows alternate.

There is another way to put a T-shaped partition from a tongue-and-groove - without bandaging. To do this, simply lay out the wall (which in the letter T is the top crossbar). To the finished wall, end-to-end, attach the second partition (left diagram in the figure above). To increase the reliability of the connection, metal reinforced perforated corners are installed at the junction.

Doorway

The doorway in the wall of tongue-and-groove slabs can be made with or without a reinforcing beam. It can be done without a reinforcing beam if the width of the opening does not exceed half the length of the block. So a doorway 900 mm wide can be made without a beam if the ceiling is made of PGP 900 mm long. Moreover, the joint of the plates should be located almost in the middle. A slight offset is allowed (by 10 mm), but the length of the entire part of the block to the right and left of the opening should not be less than 445 mm.

At the time of installation, before the glue sets, the lintel above the door is reinforced with an emphasis (a board supported by a pole resting on the floor) or a structure assembled from boards as in the right diagram. In this case, first assemble the U-shaped jumper from the boards, fix it with self-tapping screws to the blocks located below (control the horizontality of the jumper). Apply a block, mark how to cut. It turns out two L-shaped blocks of the same or almost the same size. Having applied the solution in the right places, they are installed.

If we use tongue-and-groove slabs 667 mm long, it is obligatory to install a reinforcing beam under the opening of more than 660 mm. For the manufacture of beams, you can use a metal corner, channel, fittings, metal strips of considerable thickness. It is possible to use a dry wooden beam with a thickness of 50 mm or more (pre-treat with an antiseptic). The beam should protrude 400-450 mm beyond the doorway.

Gypsum tongue-and-groove slab (PGP) is a building material specially designed for interior partitions of apartments and houses. It is hard to imagine that all interior partitions in the apartment will be without doors. In this article, we will see how to properly make a doorway in the GWP partition.

Hello! In the last article, I talked about how partitions made of PGP tongue-and-groove slabs are mounted. In this article, we will see how to properly make a doorway in the GWP partition.

Partition GWP

Let me remind you that gypsum tongue-and-groove boards are produced by Knauf and Volma. These are the most popular manufacturers of such plates.
Distinguish plates PGP ease of installation, ease of cutting and standardization of dimensions.
The boards are available in two sizes (length (L)×width (B)): 667×500 mm, 80 or 100 mm thick and 900×300 mm, 80 mm thick.
Let me also remind you that PGP slabs are laid with a groove up or down, with elastic or rigid abutments and with offset rows. Gypsum glue is used for mounting the GWP, and fastening brackets are used to reinforce the structures.

Read about all this articles:

In addition to the memories, such a scheme for mounting a partition made of gypsum boards PGP. You can download the manual from the link at the end of the article..

PGP partition installation scheme

Doorway in the GWP partition - general rules

Technologically, there are two options for arranging a doorway in the GWP interior partition:

1. Option 1. You know the design location of the door and assemble the GWP partition, taking into account this location of the door; 1. Option 2. If the doorway has a height of a quarter of the height of the partition (or less), and the door area is not more than 10% of the area of the partition, then the doorway under the door can be cut out in the finished solid partition.

Since Option No. 2 is practically not possible in an apartment, then we will further consider only Option No. 1: the arrangement of a doorway during the installation of a partition made of HWP boards.

The principle of mounting plates in the opening

To begin with, let's pay attention to the installation of the upper plates above the doorway. They are installed as follows.

1. If the door width is not more than 900 mm, when the upper level of the opening is reached, a supporting structure made of boards is installed. Boards 1 support board 2. Important, after the installation is completed and the glue has dried, all supporting docks are removed.

Temporary supporting structure of the opening of the partition wall GGP

1. If the width of the door or just a doorway is more than 900 mm, usually 1300-1500 m, a permanent supporting element is installed at the upper level of the opening. The element rests on the baffle and will permanently support the top plates of the baffle. They make a supporting element from a channel (40 × 95 × 40 × 2.0), corners less often than reinforcement. This supporting element is not removed after the installation of the partition.

Three options for arranging a doorway in a gypsum board partition

The three considered variants of the device of the doorway are approximately the same and differ only in the location of the opening relative to the enclosing structures.

Scheme 1. The opening is located close to the edge of the partition.

Scheme 2. The opening got so that the part of the plates in contact with the door turns out to be narrow (C 2).

Scheme 3. Wide doorway. In a wide doorway PGP, the top of the opening is reinforced with a channel or corners.

Fixing the door frame to the partition GGP

The door frame is fastened to the finished partition using self-drilling screws SDT 5–5.5×137. A layer of soundproof material is installed between the box and the end of the partition (required).