Working with drywall with your own hands erecting walls and partitions: step-by-step installation of drywall. Step-by-step instructions for drywall work: do-it-yourself ceiling and walls Materials for drywall work

Due to its physical and hygienic properties, drywall is ideal for use in residential areas. Gypsum-based materials have a low density, low thermal conductivity, good soundproofing ability, high vapor and gas permeability.

Gypsum is a non-combustible fire-resistant material that does not contain toxic components. From it you can make a light interior partition, suspended ceiling, functional and decorative designs. This material is used for cladding and leveling walls, even in rooms with high level humidity. It adheres well to the cladding. tiles. Example symbol grades of plasterboard sheets (GKL) of group A with a semicircular thinned edge, having a length of 2,500 mm, a width of 1,200 mm and a thickness of 12.5 mm: GKL-A-PLUK-2 500 * 1200 * 12.5 GOST 6266-97.

When choosing between ordinary and moisture-resistant drywall, for example, for the kitchen, preference should be given to the second option. The difference in the cost of the material will be insignificant, and structures made of moisture-resistant sheets will last longer.

Before embarking on any work on your own, you must carefully consider the equipment of the workplace, select a set of tools and materials that allow you to work with maximum convenience.

Common drywall labeling
Name	Cardboard color		Lettering color
Name	On the front side	On the back side	on the back side
Plasterboard sheets (gypsum plasterboard)	Grey	Grey	Blue
Moisture resistant plasterboard sheets (GKLV)	Green	Green	Blue
Fireproof plasterboard sheets (GKLO)	Grey	Pink	Red
Gypsum plasterboard sheets, moisture resistant, fire resistant (GKLVO)	Green	Green	Red

Drywall Tools

Marking tools: level, plumb line, tape measure, pencil, paint cord, large ruler, square.

In the manufacture metal frame you will need a hammer, a puncher, a grinder, a screwdriver, pliers, metal shears, a hacksaw.

When working with drywall sheets, you need hand saw, a rail of the required length, a sharp knife-cutter, a planer.

For high-quality sealing of holes from screws, joints of sheets and corners, the following tools should be prepared: spatulas, containers for preparing mixtures, rollers and brushes for priming, a grater with a mesh or sandpaper.

Facilities personal protection: gloves, protective mask, goggles.

If you want to do the job efficiently and quickly, then it is better not to start it without a minimum set of tools.

Do-it-yourself frameless installation of drywall

Glue is laid on drywall small slides approximately 25 mm high and 100 mm in diameter. The distance between the slides is 20-30 cm.

The sheet with applied glue is pressed against the wall with a wooden block, tapping on it with a rubber mallet.

After completion of the work, the glue is allowed to dry completely (2-3 days), then the seams are glued with reinforcing tape and puttied.

If the walls in the room are even, and their deviations from the vertical do not exceed 2 cm, then you can prepare the room for painting or wallpapering frameless way by gluing sheets of drywall directly onto the wall. With this method of installation under drywall, it is impossible to lay heat and sound insulation, but it will be required minimum set tools. Significant advantages of this method are low labor intensity and minimal reduction in the area of \u200b\u200bthe room.

The coating of the walls to which the drywall sheets are attached must be strong, free of loose materials, dry, primed and even. If they are painted, make notches every 20-30 cm vertically and horizontally. Small deviations of the wall surface from the vertical are compensated by placing small pieces of drywall under the plates.

For the installation of sheets on the walls, special adhesive mixtures based on cement or gypsum. It is important to observe the proportions of the mixture and water indicated on the packaging with the dry mixture (they depend on the type of glue). Stir the glue by hand until a homogeneous mass without lumps is obtained, or use a special mixer. The resulting mass should not drain from the trowel.

Markings for fastening drywall sheets are applied to the wall.

The wall is treated with a primer - this will improve the adhesion of materials. And proceed to cutting sheets of drywall.

PASTING THE WALLS WITH GYPSUM CARDBOARD, IT IS BETTER TO START FROM THE CORNER OF THE ROOM AND MOVE AROUND THE PERIMETER OF THE ROOM.

Important! The canvases are cut so that about 10 mm of free space remains between the wall sheathing and the floor. The gap is necessary for air access to the adhesive and to protect the drywall from moisture. Subsequently, the gap must be sealed with sealant. To do this, before installing the sheets on the floor along the wall, cut off wooden planks 10 mm thick (2 for each sheet).

The sheet must be aligned vertically and horizontally, and also check the position of adjacent blanks. After the adhesive has set, the wedges are removed from the lower gap and filled with a silicone or acrylic based sealant.

Installation of drywall on the frame

Mark all parts of the frame. Scissors for metal cut blanks of the desired length. You can use a grinder or a hacksaw for metal. To guide horizontal profiles mounted on the ceiling and on the floor, glue the sealing tape or

apply a layer of sealant. The profiles are fixed to the floor and ceiling with dowels and screws installed in 60 cm increments. It is necessary to screw the upper profile to the ceiling so that it is exactly above the lower one. After that, proceed to the installation of racks.

The length of the racks is chosen 1 cm less than the distance between the floor and the ceiling. After checking the verticality of the first (extreme) rack, it is attached to the lower and upper rails and to the wall, if the partition is adjacent to the fence.

Installation of drywall sheets

Lay a ruler along the cut line and cut through the cardboard with a knife.

Stand the sheet vertically and bend it at the cut point. Use a knife to cut through the cardboard reverse side sheet to finish cutting.

You can use a hand saw to cut drywall sheets.

Seal joints between sheets of drywall

It is necessary to pay attention to the type of sheets used. These can be sheets with rounded edges and truncated, that is, not formed at a right angle. When using sheets with truncated edges, make sure that the sheets are joined and in contact with the planes surrounding them (walls, partitions, ceiling). If the joint width exceeds 4 mm, it should be filled with a special adhesive for drywall.

If the sheets are with rounded edges, you need to make sure that a gap of 5 mm wide is left between the drywall sheets. Otherwise, cut the edge of the sheet in such a way that the said gap is formed between the two sheets along their entire height.

Dilute the joint mix by hand, observing the proportions indicated on the package. The resulting mixture should be plastic, but not liquid, and keep on an inverted spatula.

If the sheets are with truncated edges, then you need to cut off a piece of sickle of the required length, apply a layer of putty between the sheets and glue the sickle to the fresh putty in the center of the seam. A new layer of putty must be immediately applied over the sickle. After drying, one or more layers of putty can be applied to achieve the desired surface finish.

Important! For outside corners use reinforced paper tape.

When using sheets with rounded edges, putty the gap between the sheets, carefully filling it with a mixture for sealing the seams. After drying (the time depends on the type of mixture and is indicated on the package), one or more layers of putty are applied to achieve the desired surface finish.

Installation of drywall: little tricks

Drywall sheets should acclimatize in the room for at least two days, so that after the installation is completed, the sheathing does not deform.
If you do not calculate the force when screwing a self-tapping screw into a drywall partition, then the screw head will destroy the plaster - and the mount will be useless. Self-cutting screws, with which drywall is attached to metal profiles, must be drowned by about 0.5 mm.
The ends of drywall sheets should not be in close contact
touch the walls and ceiling and close tightly with each other. The seams between the drywall sheets, with the exception of the factory ones, need to be “embroidered”, that is, chamfered by about 1/3 of the sheet thickness.
To chamfer, a special tool is used - a peeling type planer, which is colloquially called a drywall grater.
For soundproofing partitions, it is recommended to use mineral fiber. To
hang heavy objects from the partition, reinforcing elements are inserted in the places of their future location. In the profiles to which the door will be attached, bars with a section of 70 * 40 (45 * 40) mm are fixed.
To prevent cracks from appearing, it sometimes makes sense to carry out the installation of GKL in two layers with overlapping seams - apart.
To make the corners even, install metal corners, embedding them in the putty mass.

Using drywall sheets, you can finish the main walls, partitions and ceilings in the apartment. And with these works it is quite possible to cope with a non-specialist.

Plasterboard sheets (GKL) are a material without which not a single repair in an apartment can do now, since it allows you to level large surfaces and prepare them for finishing be it painting, wallpapering or tiling.

Wall decoration with drywall

When decorating walls, the following methods of fixing the skin are distinguished:

on mortar (this method is usually used when facing brick or concrete walls);
on load-bearing structure from rails (if additional sound or heat insulation of the wall is required).

Using drywall sheets, it is not difficult to build false walls to cover the pipes and connections, which is especially important in bathrooms.

Finishing the main walls: a - finishing the main brick or concrete walls, the sheets are attached to the base gypsum mortar, which is applied according to the scheme shown in the figure; b - installation of false walls, they are used where it is necessary to mask uneven masonry or dig pipes; to improve heat and sound insulation, mineral fiber boards are placed in the cavity between the wall and drywall.

When sheathing is covered with wooden beams base rails with a section of 40 x 60 mm are placed in increments of 75 cm. They are stuffed with rails with a cross section of 50 x 30 mm. They are also used at the joints of sheets. Sheathing plates are fixed with self-tapping screws 45 mm long.

Sheathing of ceilings on wooden slats.

Reiki can be fixed directly on the floor beams.

Sheets are fixed with self-tapping screws 45 mm long.

Plasterboard ceiling sheathing

When sheathing floors with wooden beams, base rails with a cross section of 40 * 60 mm are placed in increments of 75 cm. They are stuffed with rails with a cross section of 50 * 30 mm. They are also used at the joints of plates. Sheathing plates are fixed with self-tapping screws 45 mm long.

Sealing joints and fasteners

Sealing the joint without the use of sickle tape.

Ribbon-serpyanka gives the joints additional strength.

The finishing putty is smoothed with a trowel.

Using a mechanical grater, you can significantly save time and effort.

The sealing of fasteners, as well as joints between sheets, is the final phase of work related to the use of gypsum boards.

These operations largely determine the quality of the work performed in general. Depending on the loads on the structure, the seams can be sealed with or without sickle tape.

The most important element of the system for -dry construction - are special fillers designed for manual sealing of seams, corners and joints without the use of sickle tape.

Optimum conditions for this are also provided by the blunt semicircular edges of drywall sheets.

When sealing seams, the following simple rules must be observed:

joints should be putty only after the boards are completely dry, since excess moisture prevents the putty mass from hardening and can cause swelling of the joints;
-seams between sheets should be sealed only after curing of the binder to be mixed;
- it is not recommended to close up seams at negative temperatures;
the edges of the transverse sides of the sheets must be processed with a special planer.

When sealing joints without sickle tape, the seams are filled with a special putty, which is fiberglass reinforced mass. After about 30 minutes, the protruding excess is removed and the seam areas are sealed with a finishing putty. Then the surface is carefully sanded, trying not to touch the cardboard adjacent to the puttied areas.

Joints between large-format and facing (thin) slabs, as a rule, are sealed using sickle tape. This gives the seams additional strength, which is necessary, in particular, in the areas of window and door openings.

The joints are filled with putty, and then a sickle tape is laid in the still fresh mass, which should be slightly smoothed. After the mass has cured (after about 30 minutes), a thin layer is applied to the seam and adjacent areas finishing putty and carefully smooth it so that the edges of the putty zone do not stand out. If necessary, putty surfaces are ground.

The high quality of the finished surfaces is achieved by using a special putty for final finishing seam zones. It is so plastic that it can be easily overwritten "to zero".

Finishing putty can be smoothed out with a trowel or special tool- the so-called mechanical grater. The latter method of sealing joints can significantly save time and effort, especially when processing large area seams. The viability of the finishing putty mass is 30 minutes.

The working phases of sealing joints and the main techniques for sealing corners and fasteners are shown in the figures.

The technology of sealing joints and the main methods of sealing corners and fasteners:

a - sealing of seams - filling the seam with putty (preliminary sealing); removal of excess putty; final seal of the seam;

6 - fastener sealing - not only seams are subject to final sealing

and adjacent areas, but also fasteners; must first be checked

whether the heads of the self-tapping screws are well recessed;

v - gusset between sheets with edges lined with cardboard is carried out close to butt;

d - if a sheet with an edge not processed by a planer adjoins the corner, it is installed with a gap of 5 mm;

e - before sealing the seams between gypsum boards and walls made of other materials (plastered, concrete), stick a self-adhesive masking tape-serpyanka, which provides better adhesion of the putty to the surface; the protruding part of the tape after sealing the seams is removed;

e - seams at the outer corners of walls that do not experience strong mechanical stresses can be sealed in several working steps using sickle tape made of aluminum-reinforced kraft paper; such a tape has a fold in the center, which makes it easy to bend it into a corner;

g - seams at the outer corners of walls experiencing mechanical stress, it is advisable to close up with the use of strips to protect the edges.

How to prepare solutions for seedlings ... ELEMENTS IN THE GARDEN: REMOVING THE CONSEQUENCES ...

Many of us are sure that drywall is a modern building material that came into use only at the end of the last century. Not! In fact, this material has been used for about 200 years. Of course, during this time, production technologies have changed, but this does not negate the following fact: everyone can master the basic points of dealing with drywall on their own.

As a rule, today no one uses wooden bars for mounting the frame, instead of them, metal U-shaped profiles are used.

Work with drywall occurs using 4 types of profiles.

Guide profiles for creating a frame, they are also often called PN or UW. They have a standard depth of 40 mm and the width can be 50, 75 or 100 mm. Guide profiles are used to create the basis for fastening rack and ceiling profiles.
Ceiling guides (PNP or UD) have the same functions as the previous profiles, but are used for mounting false ceilings.
Ceiling profiles (PP or CD) are designed to create a frame and lintels. They are inserted into the guides and fixed to the ceiling with suspensions, crabs, anchor clamps.
Rack profiles (PS or CW) are used when it is required to install plasterboard partitions or to create walls. They are fixed in guides.

The main fasteners for the frame profile are self-tapping screws, the length of which is from 9 to 12 mm. There are also rivets and mounting pliers (cutter) for connecting several profiles. The frame is attached to the wall or ceiling with anchors or dowel-nails.

Do not be afraid of a large set of parts used in the installation of drywall. This is far from complete list what professional builders use. In addition, do not forget that one-time work implies only the presence of direct suspensions, CD and UD, dowel-nails or anchors.

Particular attention should be paid to the tools for mounting drywall on the walls.

Since you will have to drill holes in profiles, walls and other materials, buy or rent a hammer drill with a 3-5 joule impact force. It is much easier to make a hole in concrete with a hammer drill than with an impact drill. She just can't handle that many holes. In addition, the perforator is perfect for mixing various putty and assembly mixes. To do this, you need a special nozzle-mixer.

Equally important is a cordless screwdriver with a set of special bits to drive screws with different types hats.

In addition to power tools, hand tools are also used:

hammer;
metal scissors;
screwdriver;
stationery knife;
markers;
laser level or hydraulic level;
drywall planer;
pliers.

To attach one rack of a frame 2.5 m high to the wall, use direct suspensions in the amount of five pieces, that is, every 50 cm - 1 suspension.

Two anchors are used to secure each, in total 10 holes need to be drilled. The distance between the posts is 60 cm, so for a wall 6 m long and 2.5 m high, you will need 7 frame posts and 70 holes.

How to work with drywall

Working with drywall is primarily the creation of a frame and its further sheathing. Usually, leveling walls, erecting partitions, arches and niches.

Do-it-yourself installation of drywall is as follows.

- Step back from the wall at least 3 cm (profile width), and make marks: using a plumb line or laser level draw a line on which the drywall wall will be located.
- Attach the main UD rails to the floor and ceiling. Their edge should follow your line.
- After that, you need to set vertical racks from CD profiles. To do this, they are inserted into the guides and screwed with screws to each other.
- To stiffen the CD profiles, every 50 cm they are attached to the wall with the help of hangers, which are fastened to the wall with two dowel-nails. Suspensions are screwed to the profiles with self-tapping screws, and their corners are bent.

- Width standard sheet drywall is 120 cm, so the distance between the centers of CD profiles is 60 cm.
- After mounting the frame, insulation, electrical wiring, water pipes or heating pipes.
- When installing drywall sheets on the ceiling, not only direct hangers are used, but also wire strands and "butterflies", which have special steel "wings" that fix the strands at the desired distance from the ceiling.

Types of fasteners for creating a frame

assumes you are using for this special mounts- anchors.
Self-tapping screws for installing drywall are screwed in increments of 25-30 centimeters.

If you need to cut a sheet of drywall, this can be done very simply with your own hands. To do this, cut the cardboard and a few millimeters of the plaster layer with a clerical knife, and then break it on the corner of the table. Cut off the second layer of paper after breaking.

How to seal sheet joints

After installation is necessary. When joining whole sheets, the edges should form the required shape, and when installing cut pieces, a chamfer is cut off to ensure a triangular seam.

For filling assembly seam use putty. The junction is reinforced with a paint grid (sickle). Serpyanka is used after filling the seam with putty, then it is puttied clean. To reinforce the corners, you can use reinforcing perforated corners.

If working with drywall requires creating curved structures, you can bend the sheet yourself. To do this, pierce a sheet of cardboard with a spiked roller and moisten it with plenty of water. After 10-15 minutes, the gypsum will get wet, and it will be possible to give it any shape without any problems.
This technique is often used for and .

Now no renovation in the apartment is complete without such practical material like drywall. If you learn how to work with it correctly, then you will be able to create amazing structures for hiding communications, creating partitions and zoning rooms.

Work with drywall can be performed without outside intervention professional builders. More often to independent decision construction tasks are resorted to by the owners of a private house. After all, repairs in such a house are impressive and cost a pretty penny. And not hiring workers will save money.

The technology for handling drywall sheets (GKL) is different. It depends on the conditions of the room and the features of the object being built. Repair with wall alignment has two options for the development of events. In the first case, the sheet sits on the adhesive, which fixes the drywall against the wall. In the second case, the manipulations look more complicated, you will need the construction of a special frame.

Frame base

More often to wireframe method they resort in the event that it is not necessary to level the walls, but to form a decorative partition, since the construction of the frame steals useful centimeters in the house.

The ceiling is also sheathed with plasterboard. With the help of the material complex structures are made. The result is a renovation with a unique design execution.

Home renovation starts with planning. If the alignment of the wall is supposed, here you can do without drawings and complex calculations. Only the calculation of materials is required. Multilevel ceiling will require considerable effort, therefore it is recommended to carefully consider each design element, fastening methods, structure structure and materials for processing.

When choosing materials, you should immediately consider the characteristics of drywall and make a choice.

On the market there are sheets of the following types:

Standard - option for simple species works (GKL);
Moisture resistant - for rooms with a high humidity index (bathroom, kitchen), marked as GKLV;
Refractory - for premises requiring a special approach to fire protection (GKLO);
Universal - the material combines the properties of a refractory and moisture resistant sheet (GKLVO).

Drywall range

What is useful in work

Working with drywall includes the need to build a frame. The metal profile forms a “skeleton”, which is subsequently sheathed with sheets. To start the repair, you need to stock up on guides / racks in the required quantity.

The list should include:

CD - main element (60x30 mm);
UD - auxiliary product (30x30 mm);
UW and CW are additional rack and rail elements that are necessary if the repair includes the construction of a partition.

In addition, you should get:

Self-tapping screws for drywall;
reinforcing tape;
Dowels to fasten to walls and ceilings;
thermal insulating material;
Gypsum putty;
Primer;
Dry adhesive composition(if the repair involves that the walls and ceiling in the house are aligned adhesive method fixing GKL);
Sealing tape;
Direct hangers.

Read also: - stages of work with photos and videos, the choice of material and its properties

Features of wall alignment

The walls in the house are the main objects that affect any repair. They need preparation before proceeding to the direct construction of the frame.

The preparatory technology step by step looks like this:

The walls are cleaned of pieces of plaster that has peeled off.
The surface is covered with a primer.
An antiseptic composition is applied.
Vertical markings are being applied for the installation of racks.

Mounting racks

Racks in the frame are best placed in increments of 60 cm or 40 cm. These indicators are considered optimal when working with 120 cm drywall sheets.

Frame erection

Sticking tape to the guide profiles to reduce noise (the side with which the element is attached to the floor, ceiling or walls is pasted over).
Installation of guide profiles on the ceiling and floor for further installation of racks (it is better to use dowels).
Checking installed components for accuracy of location in one vertical plane (a plumb bob is used).
Installation of racks inside the guides and fixation with a cutter or self-tapping screws.
Fixing racks with straight hangers and dowels.
Fastening the racks to the hangers with self-tapping screws (for additional rigidity).
Bending of protrusions on suspensions.

Finished crate against the wall

Laying wiring for organizing a communication system.
Warming the wall of the house with mineral wool.

The insulation material must be insulated with vapor barrier membrane. You will need double-sided tape to attach to the frame.

After that, the frame is sheathed with drywall. Installation is made from below. Depending on the height of the ceiling, finishing the frame requires manipulation of the material. This is where drywall technology comes in handy.

Work with drywall sheets

Regardless of what will be sheathed with drywall - walls or ceilings, repairs in the house are done according to the rules. Even if it concerns seemingly insignificant nuances at first glance.

The first thing the builder faces is cutting the material. Sheets are unpretentious in this regard, but a trick is applied here. After marking on the surface of the material, a sharp clerical knife is carried out along the notch line. By fixing one half of the GKL and pressing on the other, you can easily break the material along the incision made.

Material cutting instructions

Ceiling with complex design/ decorative partition sometimes requires the implementation of curly elements. For these purposes, it is better to use electric jigsaw. This tool cuts precise and controlled details by the master.

The electric jigsaw is set to work with the maximum number revolutions. Appropriate markings are preliminarily applied to the sheet. The material is laid on a surface convenient for work. The sheet is fixed with one hand, and the second is cut with a jigsaw. The tool is pressed tightly against the GKL.

If figured decor is required

A figured ceiling or a plasterboard niche will be an excellent interior decoration. Such objects cannot do without the use of special technologies for working with the material. In some cases, to achieve the desired shape, the GKL will need to be bent. Sheet capabilities allow you to perform such procedures. Moreover, there are several ways to bend the product at once.

The dry processing method involves cutting the sheet with a clerical knife. All lines must be parallel to each other. The cutting depth is no more than 0.6 cm. This will allow you to bend the sheet, but not cut it completely.

The more notches are made, the larger the radius of curvature will eventually be. In other words, frequent lines will allow you to strongly bend the sheet. More rare incisions will limit the fold line somewhat.

Material bend pattern

Working with drywall in a wet way is carried out by soaking the material. Water is applied to the sheet, it should be cold. After that, using a spiked roller, the entire surface is treated. If there is no such tool at hand, use a fork moistened with water. The result will be small holes that will allow you to bend the product. This must be done carefully.

There is a more gentle way. It lies in the fact that the sheet is wetted and laid on the surface so that its edges hang down. In a few days, the material itself will bend under its own weight.

The review below discusses the specifics of working with drywall when building a partition:

GKL as a skin can be attached to a metal or wooden frame. The latter is rarely used, so it is not taken into account. Hardened screws are used for fastening. The recommended size of the fasteners is 3-3.5 cm. The sheet is applied to the frame base and tacked with self-tapping screws, the fasteners fall exactly in the middle of the profile. So that further surface treatment does not cause problems, the head of the screws is recessed to a depth of 0.1-0.2 cm.

Fixation step - 100-150 mm. Sheets are placed end-to-end with a minimum allowable gap of 2-3 millimeters. After that, the seams are filled with putty. The primer is pre-applied. When it dries, grooves are cut out at the joints of the sheets, a sickle tape is applied and a layer of putty is applied.

It remains to wait until it dries, primed and apply putty again. This time the layer will be the final one. The result is rubbed with sandpaper to eliminate irregularities.

In contact with

Tsugunov Anton Valerievich

Reading time: 6 minutes

Despite the fact that drywall was used in Soviet time, wide use it has received only in the last two decades. Working with drywall with your own hands is quite within the power of a simple layman with a minimum of building skills, and the scope of this material is extremely wide. It is ideal for leveling walls and ceilings in apartments, building all kinds of arches, interior partitions and creating other interior details that give the apartment its individuality.

Drywall is valued by finishers for its undeniable advantages.

The material is excellent value for money.
In addition to solving aesthetic problems, it can be used for warming apartments, increasing their sound insulation.
Under its surface, it is easy to hide not only the unevenness of the wall, but also protruding pipes and communications.
Working with drywall is not accompanied by as much dust and dirt as, for example, plastering walls or whitewashing the ceiling.
This finishing material Eco-friendly, non-conductive and easy to use.

All these factors determined the widespread use of drywall in repair work.

What is drywall

Before you figure out how to work with drywall, you need to decide on its types. Construction material must be selected taking into account the specifics of the room and its microclimate. For convenience, the sheets of material are painted in various colors depending on the type.

In normal rooms with normal humidity gray plasterboard is used.

Fire-resistant sheets marked with the abbreviation GKLO are painted in pink or light purple. They are used when finishing surfaces near stoves and fireplaces.

Letters GKLV and in green designates moisture-resistant drywall for bathrooms and kitchens.

For finishing walls and ceilings in the kitchen, you can also use sheets of dark gray or blue color, which have the designation GKLVO. They combine good moisture resistance with high fire resistance.
Often used to create curved structures. arched drywall GKLA. It has a smaller thickness - 6-7 mm and is very plastic.

most detailed information about the types of this material and its parameters, as well as its classification according to the new GOST can be found in the article "".

Profiles for drywall installation

Installation of drywall can be carried out in two ways: on glue or on a frame. More often used frame structure, which has only one drawback: a more significant reduction in the internal space of the room. But with its help it is easier to level the walls or ceiling, provide heat and sound insulation of the room, hide communications.

Fastening drywall to a frame made of wooden bars is currently rare, it is much more convenient to use special metal profiles. Their length is standard and is 3 m, and the remaining parameters are indicated in the profile marking. The first number is the width of the profile, and the second is its height.

The basis of the drywall frame is made up of guide profiles, designated PN or UW. Ceiling or rack profiles are attached to them.
For fixing suspended ceilings and for wall cladding, guides are used that are marked PNP or UD.
PP or CD ceiling profiles are inserted into the guides, which are also used when leveling walls, which are subsequently fixed with crabs or anchors. With their help, a frame and jumpers are formed.
To create walls and partitions, rack profiles are inserted into the rails, denoted by the abbreviation PS or CW.

For curved structures and arches, a special arched profile is used. Also exists corner profile designed to strengthen the outer and inner corners.

In addition, a wide variety of fasteners are produced, thanks to which do-it-yourself drywall work on walls and ceilings turns into an assembly of an exciting designer.

The profiles are attached to the wall and ceiling using U-shaped brackets, self-tapping screws and dowel-nails. quick installation". To fasten the profiles together, you can use rivets or a cutter (special mounting pliers). There are many parts for fasteners, but with single work with your own hands, most of them will not be required.

Required Tools

The tool that will be needed when installing a drywall structure is best prepared in advance.

When attaching the profiles to the wall, you will have to drill a lot of holes for the dowels. With a conventional impact drill, this process can turn into a real torment. Therefore, it is better to stock up on a good puncher.
A screwdriver with a set of interchangeable bits is useful when mounting the frame on a wall or ceiling and fixing drywall sheets.
You will also need a hammer, metal shears, a screwdriver, a level, a plumb line, a clerical knife and a spatula.

This is a necessary minimum, you can expand the list of tools based on your needs and capabilities.

Sheet cutting

In order to cut a sheet of drywall, you can use a regular clerical knife. With its help, an incision is made along the ruler on one side of the sheet, after which the sheet is easily broken into two parts.

If you want to cut a curved hole, such as an arch, it is better to use a jigsaw. It is necessary to insert a metal file into it and cut at maximum speed.

What brand of drywall do you use?

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To obtain a smooth bend, you can do without incisions. The GKL sheet is attached with one side to the prepared curved frame, the free side is slowly and carefully bent, rounded in the shape of the frame. This job is best done by two people.

Check out the video tutorial that will show you how the pros do it:

At wet method the side of the GKL sheet, which will be concave, needs to be moistened. For a better effect, you can walk on the surface with a spiked roller, and in its absence, with an ordinary fork. Once wet, the sheet can be gently bent to obtain desired shape. It is best to carefully lay it on the template, wrap it with tape and leave it to dry completely.

Surface preparation

Regardless of the purpose and method of fixing drywall, the surface of the wall or ceiling needs preliminary preparation.

. It can be paint, wallpaper or fragile plaster.
Large cracks are primed and sealed with cement mortar.
The surface is treated with an antiseptic, otherwise mold or fungus may develop under the drywall.

In most cases, this method is used to level the walls. Order installation work it will be as follows:

On the ceiling, a line is drawn on the inner edge of the drywall sheet. In this case, the distance from the wall cannot be less than the thickness of the profile, that is, 30 mm.
A UD guide profile is screwed along this line. Its outer border should coincide with our line, and it will be between the wall and the mark.
Using a plumb line, the same line is drawn on the floor and another UD profile is screwed. If everything is done carefully, then the profiles will be in a single vertical plane.

Installation of vertical racks. Each sheet of drywall must be screwed to three such racks from the CD profile: one is located in the center of the sheet, and two along the edges. At standard width drywall 120 mm vertical posts must be installed every 60 mm. Adjacent sheets will also be attached to the profiles located at the edges. The verticality of the profiles is checked using a level.
Racks are fixed with a cutter or self-tapping screws. In order for the frame to become rigid, each rack must be connected to the wall using brackets. They are attached to the wall with dowels in increments of 500–600 mm. In the future, their edges are bent and attached to the profiles with self-tapping screws. In this case, it is necessary to avoid the curvature of the racks, controlling the level of their verticality.

If the ceiling is leveled with drywall, then anchors are used instead of dowels when fastening. Rough plastic dowels and self-tapping screws can only be used in case of a slight load. Also, when installing the ceiling, wire strands and "butterflies" are used, which are necessary if the distance between the ceiling and the GKL sheet is significant.

Sheets of drywall are attached to the frame with self-tapping screws 30–35 mm long. The distance between the attachment points should not exceed 20 cm, most often a step of 10–15 cm is chosen.

The caps of the screws must be deepened into the sheet by a few millimeters.

Sealing joints between sheets

When fixing drywall, a gap of 1–2 mm is allowed between adjacent sheets. At the final stage, it is necessary to process these joints so that the drywall surface is ready for fine finishing.

If there is no factory chamfer on the sheets, then it is necessary to make it with a sharp knife at an angle of 45 degrees.
This triangular seam is filled with putty, and a sickle mesh is glued on top. It is pressed with a spatula and recessed in putty. The corners are puttied with special perforated corners. You should also not forget to fill with putty all the recesses formed at the screwing points of the screws, otherwise the rust from them will eventually come through the finish.

In any construction work technology is always important, it is it that guarantees the quality of construction and the durability of the result of the repair. But, often, builders allow technological "blunders", some out of ignorance, and some out of inertia. Many builders deliberately violate technology, seemingly with good intentions, trying to speed up the installation process and reduce material costs. Consider the main mistakes using the example of working with and a metal profile.

1. Violations of the frame mounting technology

Non-compliance with the technology with a metal profile or profiles that do not correspond to their purpose are perhaps the most popular mistakes of builders and everyone who makes repairs with their own hands. This is especially true for the profile curved surfaces ceiling.

This photo shows that, unfortunately, the master, in principle, does not understand how to fix the ceiling profiles (PP 60X27). To fix them, you should always use hangers, the profile should look down with its smooth side, because it is on this base that the drywall sheets are screwed. The design does not have an additional metal strip along the entire length of the profile (cut along the same curved line from a galvanized sheet), which ensures the rigidity of the entire structure. As a result, this design will be flimsy, and the drywall fastening is unreliable, which will lead to a crack after repair.

2. Mistakes when cutting a profile

For uniform cutting of the profile for the purpose of mounting curved structures, in no case should an angle grinder (grinder) be used. At high speed, the metal overheats, in addition, galvanization burns out at the cut site, as a result of which, in the future, this place will be subject to corrosion. Work on cutting a metal profile should be carried out only with special metal shears (manual or electric). The smooth profile is cut carefully, strictly observing the integrity of the opposite shelf, on which the side sheet of drywall will be attached.

3. Wrong profile selection

A common mistake among builders of different qualifications, when the construction of the box for partitions is made of ceiling profile, instead of rack (PS 50/50) and guide (PN 50/40).

The stability, reliability and sound insulation of such a design immediately becomes questionable.

Using a ceiling profile for a partition frame is a complete discrepancy with technology. For the construction of partitions or walls, a guide profile 50/40, 75/40 and 100/40 is used (which is fixed on the floor, ceiling and wall), and a rack profile 50/50, 75/50, 100/50.

4. Refusal of suspensions and violation of the frame

During construction false ceiling builders are faced with the problem of foundation - what is the frame to be fixed to? V best case this is concrete, but if it is a tree or a complex surface obtained experimentally, then problems arise here, as in the photo. In this case, the builders separate places decided to completely abandon the use of suspensions for the frame of a two-level ceiling type P-112.

As a result, the main profile 60/27 is screwed rigidly to the carrier profile without a two-level connector. Himself bearing profile pressed to the boards also without hangers. This technology will lead to the fact that after a while cracks will necessarily form on the surface of the entire plasterboard ceiling. The frame scheme is also broken - the step of the profiles is chaotic, with a wide indentation of the supporting profile from the wall. Subject to the technology, the carrier profile is fixed from the wall in increments of 10 cm. The suspended ceiling system can only be fixed to special perforated or spring suspensions. The profile pitch should be uniform every 50 cm (and in the case of heavy chandeliers - 40 cm).

5. Extension of the profile walls

A vivid example of incorrect work with the profile is shown in the photo below. The partition is again built from a ceiling profile, in violation of technology. And besides, for the jumpers, the profile was simply unbent.

And here, the bearing crossbar of the partition opening is made of a rack profile, which is also deployed horizontally, and its stiffeners are unbent.

This is extremely wrong. Unbending the walls of the profile, the rigidity and integrity of the entire structure is violated, since the reinforcement is also reduced. Here it was necessary to use a special guide profile for partitions of the appropriate size 50/40, 75/40 or 100/40.

6. Fixing the GKL sheet on the wrong side

Some builders consider the question of which side to fix drywall to be irrelevant - front or back? The photo shows how, when sheathing the wall with GKLV sheets, some of them are sewn back side out. The peculiarity of this drywall is that it is moisture resistant and these properties are contained both in the core of the sheet and in its cardboard on the front side, preventing excessive wetting of the sheet in wet rooms, as well as the formation of fungus.

7. Error fixing drywall sheets

Another of the popular mistakes, leading to the appearance of cracks at the joints of drywall, is its incorrect fixation. It is the installation of drywall sheets in a run-up that will protect against the appearance of cracks. Below you can see how the sheets are screwed to the profile in one row, and in addition from small cuts. This is a low quality upholstery. Sheets must be taken to the maximum of a larger size, and small pieces should not be joined on an area of 1 sq / m.

Even experienced craftsmen it is worth improving your knowledge, for example, in the Knauf Training Center. Remember - the reliability and quality of the designs of systems from gypsum boards and profiles is associated with compliance with the technology!