Homemade tour tower. Construction loess from a profile pipe
For any construction and installation work, the foremen must take care of the correct and safe placement of workers on construction sites. It is important to follow safety precautions when working at height.
For the production of construction and finishing works, scaffolding and scaffolding - tours are used. They ensure the efficient work of the construction teams and the convenient supply of the necessary materials and tools to the work site.
How is the tower - tour convenient?
One of the main auxiliary devices at any construction site is a tower - tour vyshka-tura.com.ua. It is mobile, it is easy to move it as work is done in individual areas. It is possible to assemble and dismantle such towers literally in 20 minutes by several workers. The towers have a fairly rigid structure, which ensures their reliability and stability.
The technical characteristics of the tower allow you to perform work at high heights and quickly move to another area. Often, a tower tour becomes a necessary device in the construction business. However, it is not always possible to purchase or rent it. Advice it begs itself - you can make a tower of the required size from available tools.
What materials can be used to make a tower?
A tour, made by handicraft, can be in the form of a collapsible and non-collapsible structure. Of course, the collapsible version is more convenient to use. Disassembled, it can be easily and compactly transported to various construction sites. Disassembly and assembly will not take long. Failed structural elements and fasteners are easy to replace.
And you know that such a tower is not difficult to make on your own from the remnants of metal elements at a construction site and not spend money on buying a tower - factory-made tours.
To make a tower, you will need the following materials:
- For tower struts, profile pipes with a diameter of at least 30 mm are applicable.
- For stiffening jibs, a pipe with a diameter of 15 mm is required. or a corner with a shelf width of 30 mm.
- For lintels, you can use a steel pipe with a diameter of 25 mm.
- It is possible to adjust the wheels on one side, they will ensure the convenience of moving the tower.
Tower manufacturing procedure - tours
First, from a pipe with a diameter of 15 mm. you need to make 2-meter segments according to the number of planned sectional areas of the tower. Each section will need four such segments. The ends of these pipes are flattened for easy attachment to the main tower legs.
The next step will be the preparation of the tower racks. For this profile 30 mm. the pipe is cut into sections of 1.5 and 0.75 m. Small sections will be used to make the legs of the structure, and pipes 1.5 meters long will be steps.
In the manufacture of a non-separable structure, all elements are reliably welded by electric welding with a thorough check of the quality of the seams. The distance between the pipes of the steps should not exceed 30 cm. As a result, wheels are mounted to the main struts.
The manufacture of a collapsible tower is a more complicated process and will require special fastening assemblies (clamping clamps or bolts). In addition, many holes must be drilled in the pipes to secure the structural members with bolts.
This is a truly versatile building structure designed for work at heights. The main difference between the scaffold tower and other forests is its high mobility and rather compact dimensions. All this allows not only to work at high heights, but also to move it from one workplace to another in a short time. Sometimes a tour tower is almost irreplaceable, but what if there is no opportunity to buy it at the moment? In this case, there is only one way out, to make it yourself.
What materials will be needed to make a tour tower?
Homemade tour can be made in two versions: collapsible and non-collapsible. The collapsible version is better both in terms of transportation and storage. After all, it is much easier to disassemble the tour and bring it into the room when it is not needed, and then reassemble it when it is needed, than to store it on the street. To make a collapsible tower, you will need the following materials:
Profile pipe with a diameter of 30 mm - from this pipe, the stands for the tower will subsequently be made;
Ordinary pipe with a diameter of 15mm - this pipe will act as oblique couplers for the tower, which will give it higher strength and reliability;
Profile pipe with a diameter of 25 mm - this pipe will need very little and all of it will be used to create jumpers;
Wheels for tower tours - in fact, they will give the tour high mobility;
How to start making a tower?
The first step is to cut a 15mm pipe into 2m sections, the number of these sections will depend on the number of derrick sections being erected. One section will take 4 such segments. Then these segments need to be flattened at the ends, this is necessary so that it is more convenient to attach them to the tower. In order for them to crumple better, you can make small longitudinal cuts.
The next step is to make stands for the tower, for this you need to cut a 30mm profile pipe into lengths of 1.5m and 0.74m. Cuts 1.5m long (2 per rack) will be the legs of the rack, and 0.74m long (4 per rack) will be steps. Then all this must be welded into a single structure so that the distance between the steps does not exceed 30 cm. Also at this stage, the wheels should be welded to the struts.
The next step will be the manufacture of jumpers for the tower, for this we cut a profiled pipe with a diameter of 25 mm into segments of 20-25 cm, as well as a profiled pipe with a diameter of 30 mm into pieces of 4-6 cm. Then we thread 25mm pieces of 30mm approximately to the middle and fasten them with welding. The final touch before assembling the tower is to drill a hole for the anchor bolt, which will hold the tie rods and posts together.
It is also worth noting that a self-made tour tower is a rather bad alternative to a factory one. It is heavier and less durable and reliable. Self-made towers do not allow working at significant heights and it is rather a temporary short-lived means on which you can work only at your own peril and risk. Therefore, if possible, it is still worth buying a factory-made tour, since they are already not as expensive as before.
If you decide to make scaffolding, then you will have to choose from two materials: wood or metal. In the first case, you will have a disposable structure that anyone who knows how to work with wood can make, and in the second, it is reusable, but also quite easy to make. In this article, we will tell you how to make scaffolding with your own hands from metal (shaped pipe), as well as from wood (boards), we will demonstrate diagrams, photo and video instructions.
Although metal or wood is mainly used for the manufacture of scaffolds, they can differ in the method of fastening, and, accordingly, have different functional elements in their design. So, let's consider the main types of forests.
Component elements are connected with a special wedge fixation. Scaffolding of this design is highly reliable. They are able to withstand quite heavy loads. Moreover, they are easy to use, they are quickly assembled and disassembled. The use of wedge scaffolding is especially important in the construction and lifting of heavy materials and units.
The main element of this design is a rigidly mounted frame. Mostly they are used for painting or plastering work. The frame in this design is connected with horizontal struts and diagonal braces due to nodal connections. The main advantage of frame scaffolds is their low cost. Their construction will not require large investments.
In these woods, the knot of the joint, as the name implies, is the pin. This type of scaffolding is very popular with builders as it is very easy to assemble and disassemble them directly on the construction site. It often takes a day or two to assemble scaffolding. In this case, assembling the pin scaffolds will not take much time.
If the object being renovated has a complex configuration, then yoke scaffolding is an excellent solution. The fastening method used is professional. And for their manufacture, the height and size of the working area, the distance between the tiers and the step of the racks play an important role. All this is selected individually at each facility.
We suggest you familiarize yourself with a simple guide to making scaffolding from boards. To do this, follow a few simple sequential steps:
- Parallel to each other on a flat area, lay out 4 racks or boards. Their size should immediately correspond to the height of the scaffolding.
- The racks are connected to each other with horizontal jumpers, on which the flooring will later be laid.
- Place the prepared 2 frames horizontally opposite each other, tie them diagonally and horizontally with boards that will serve as ties.
- On horizontal screeds, lay the flooring from the boards and attach it to the lintels with self-tapping screws.
- Attach the railing to the racks and fix the ladder.
If it is necessary to lengthen the structure of the scaffolding, connect several similar sections of boards to each other. Boards are stuffed onto support posts.
When assembling wooden scaffolding, if nails are used, it is recommended to pre-drill the holes so that the boards do not split.
Design
All forests are composed of the following elements:
- racks;
- diagonal and horizontal struts (they add spatial strength to the structure);
- lintels for flooring;
- plank flooring on which the person will stand;
- stops (to create the stability of the scaffolding and prevent them from falling away from the wall);
- a protective element (so that a person standing on the flooring does not fall down);
- ladder (stepladder) to climb to the desired level of the scaffolding.
Of wood and planks
There are a lot of tips on how to make scaffolding on the Internet. Moreover, the recommended designs differ mainly from each other only in the thickness of the board and the size of the scaffolding themselves. So that you do not get confused in all this "diversity", try to focus on the following values:
Getting started:
- Prepare the necessary materials in advance:
- boards with a thickness of at least 50 mm and a width of 100 mm (or round timber, or a beam of 10x10 cm) - for racks and stops;
- boards for spacers and fences 30 mm thick;
- boards for lintels and flooring 50 mm thick;
- nails (screws in this case are less reliable).
Photo instruction
We bring to your attention a series of photos on how to make your own wooden scaffolding:
From a profile pipe
Now about how to make scaffolding (collapsible) from metal (dimensions of one section: height - 1.5 meters, width 1 meter, length 1.65 meters). Determine the number of sections based on the height of the scaffolding you need.
- Prepare the necessary materials:
- for racks - profile pipe (square section) 30x30 mm - length 1500 mm;
- for spacers - a pipe with a diameter of 15 mm;
- for connecting inserts (adapters) - profile pipe 25x25 mm;
- make the flooring from boards 40-50 mm thick and 210-220 cm long.
- for diagonal elements - 2 meters each;
- for horizontal elements connecting the posts from the sides of the structure - 96 cm each.
"Pros and cons"
Firstly, scaffolding is not a small construction scaffold, but rather a cumbersome structure that will need to be stored somewhere after the need for it disappears.
Wooden scaffolding, of course, can then be disassembled, but the work is laborious, and the boards, if you do not need them in the near future, also need to be folded somewhere. Do not forget that wooden scaffolding is assembled with nails, not self-tapping screws, so the boards will no longer be completely intact. In addition, when working on scaffolding, the wood is often stained with mortar or paint.
Homemade metal scaffolding can not only be disassembled, but also leased out in the future.
Secondly, non-prefabricated scaffolding is designed to work at the maximum level of the second floor (from the ground). At higher altitudes, the exploitation of self-made forests becomes dangerous.
Thirdly, scaffolding is rarely required (only for repairing the facade of a building), so the assembly and disassembly of such a temporary structure is not profitable in terms of the time spent on this work.
Fourthly, scaffolding often has to be made long (for example, at least 6 meters for siding installation). Accordingly, their weight increases, and rearranging home-made wooden scaffolding to the other side of the house becomes a problem even for three or four people.
It is worth thinking about forests even at the design stage of a house.
If you do not plan to carry out the facade work on your own (but are going to hire a construction team), then you do not need to think too much about scaffolding, since builders usually come to the site with their scaffolding and scaffolds.
However, at the end of construction (and after some time), scaffolding may be needed to carry out minor facade repairs. Can this be avoided?
Of course. And to begin with, make sure that the facade of your house does not require renovation for many years. To do this, it is enough to use facing bricks when erecting walls. Now it is produced by many manufacturers and at the same time in a fairly large range of colors.
But other facing materials (such as siding, plaster and others) will periodically require your attention and, accordingly, additional costs, since you will not be able to make scaffolding (buy or rent) for free.
Video
From this video you will learn how to make scaffolding for apartment renovation:
Photo
The photographs show various scaffolding designs:
Schemes
The diagrams will help you design your own scaffolding:
Even in ancient Egypt, when the need arose for the construction of multi-storey buildings, devices were required with the help of which it was possible for builders to rise to the required height and work there. Therefore, the solution to this issue was the creation of such construction equipment as scaffolding.
The name comes from the word "forest" as the scaffolding was originally made of wooden beams and planks. But wooden scaffolding was unreliable, so over time and progress, scaffolding was improved and made from various materials, mainly metals. Improvements in scaffolding have made them more reliable and safer for builders working at height. Today, special rules and regulations have been developed for working on scaffolding.
Modern scaffolding can wrap around an entire new building or building that is being renovated, thus providing workers with a safe work.
This article describes all possible types of scaffolding, assembled from various materials and with various types of structures; the order of assembling scaffolding and towers is considered. And also GOSTs and requirements for structures and assemblies of scaffolding are defined.
Wooden scaffolding
Wood is one of the first building materials. It was from wood that the first scaffoldings were built. In Asian countries, forests were made from the trunks of cut and dried bamboo. However, such forests are inferior in strength to wood ones.
Today, wooden planks are also used as scaffolding for finishing work at low heights, most often within a private house.
Making scaffolding with your own hands from wood
For the scaffold, half-meter scraps of boards (fifty) 150x50 mm and pieces of thin boards, for example, 25x100 mm, are taken. These board sizes are enough to withstand the average person and the materials they use for renovation and construction work. A horizontal deck is formed from thin boards.
For supports, or, as they are called sled, take thicker and longer fifty boards. Triangles are hammered from a thick board, they serve as supports for the scaffold. After the support, they are sheathed with a thin board.
How big should the support triangle be? It must be borne in mind that the person standing on them must have enough space. And, on top of that, there should be no separation from the walls under the influence of any weight. Therefore, the length of the scaffold is chosen in the intervals from 400 to 500 mm.
The props are attached to the supports at an acute angle; for this, their length should be correctly calculated. The upper end is slightly cut at an angle so that it can be inserted inside the triangular supports. The lower end is sharpened for good anchorage in the ground.
When scaffolding is placed on an object, the vertical side of the supports comes to the wall. At the same time, the nails are not hammered into the very heads, so that after the end of the work they can be removed.
Then the horizontal flooring is assembled. The board is laid tightly and nailed to the supports (now the nails are driven in all the way).
The scaffolding is then tested for stability. To avoid losing the balance of wooden scaffolding, they are not taken out to a height of more than 7 meters.
Video - how to make scaffolding with your own hands
Metal scaffolding
One of the most reliable and demanded types of scaffolding is scaffolding made of metal pipes. Steel or aluminum is used as metal.
There are two types of scaffolding - modular and frame. The types of frame include pin, flag scaffolding and tower-tours. And to modular - clamp, wedge, suspended and directly modular, or as they are also called system scaffolding.
All scaffoldings are made in accordance with GOST 24258-88 and GOST 27321-87. And they are stored in accordance with GOST 15150-69.
Like wood, metal scaffolding requires anchoring to the building wall and around the building with anchors. If the scaffolding is not fixed on anchors, they can be taken out to a maximum of four meters in height. Moreover, the platform on which the scaffolding stands should be perfectly horizontal, not sink. And there must also be a drain for water. Otherwise, the forests will collapse or topple over.
Let's consider in more detail each type of metal scaffolding.
Flag scaffolding.
This type of scaffold has a standard load of up to 200 kg / m2. They consist of stands for horizontal and diagonal fastening of the side frames. As well as side frames with or without ladder and shoes for ground support. The constituent elements of the flag scaffolds are made of steel, the scaffolding dimensions are set by the manufacturer or the customer. Such scaffolds are easy to assemble and cheap, therefore they are one of the most popular and frequently encountered types of scaffolding. Most often they are used for finishing and masonry work on buildings with a straight facade.
There are holes in the structures for fasteners. The fasteners are fixed with a flag. The height of the scaffolding should not exceed 25 m for masonry and 40 m for finishing work.
Flag forests are collected according to the following principle:
- The first tier of scaffolding: measure the step between the frames (approximately 3 meters); put support boards, on top - shoes; frames are brought into the shoes strictly vertically, which are connected with ties and braces.
- The second tier of scaffolding: the frames are installed vertically; fix them with horizontal and diagonal ties; put horizontal ribs.
- Install stairs at an angle and vertically.
- The scaffolding is fastened to the building using fasteners in a staggered manner and a step of up to 4 meters.
- Repeat the assembly in the same way as assembling the second tier of subsequent tiers to the desired height.
- End and longitudinal ties are installed, which serve as fences.
Assembling the scaffolding on video
Pin scaffolding.
For pin scaffolds, the standard load is the same as for flag ones. Scaffolding consists of horizontal elements, which are fixed by inserting pins into tubes welded to the posts. The lower legs of the struts are inserted into the shoes.
The new tier is assembled in stages, the rigidity of the scaffolding is given with the help of braces, which are installed diagonally. The maximum height to which the forests are collected is 40 m. Such forests are used for masonry work.
Tower tour
This type of scaffolding is most beneficial for “quick” repairs. These scaffolds are easy to assemble, easy to move and cost effective.
The tower-tours consist of frames with a ladder and a base to which the wheels are attached. If the tiers are brought out to a height of more than four meters, then standard struts are attached to the first tier. The towers are attached to the building wall with anchors. The maximum height of such towers can reach up to 21 m.
The assembly of the tower-tour is as follows:
- The frame with wheels is placed on the platform and the supports are extended, having previously placed supports under them.
- The side frames are connected to the base and secured with ties and stiffeners.
- Further, the subsequent tiers are collected in the same way.
- On the upper tier, they put and fasten the flooring, insurance and ties for the fence.
Wedge scaffolding
For wedge-shaped scaffolding, the standard load reaches 300 kg / m2. This name of the scaffolding comes from steel wedges, which function as fixators and do not allow self-wedging due to their shape. The wedges are driven in with a hammer. Such a scaffolding structure is considered more reliable and capable of withstanding a large load. The height to which wedge scaffolds are raised reaches 40 m. Wedge scaffolds are used in shipbuilding and aircraft construction, they are used as temporary structures.
Clamp scaffolding
For this type of scaffolding, the standard load reaches 250 kg / m2. These forests are considered one of the very first. Their name comes from the clamps used to connect the elements of the scaffolding.
Such scaffolds are difficult to collect, but their height is 80 meters. Clamps are deaf and rotary, tightened with bolts. Clamp scaffolds provide access to any structure.
When the height of the building, its structure and other reasons do not make it possible to install scaffolding, use the suspended version. Suspended scaffolding is used for restoration work.
In terms of strength and reliability, these scaffolds are not inferior to clamp ones. For the support of this type of scaffolding, the floor of the building is used. Scaffolding is built into the consoles located between the floors.
Modular scaffolding
With the help of modular scaffolding, the second name is system, you can form a structure of any shape. Scaffolding elements are connected using wedge-disk or cup fastening. Ties and crossbars of these scaffoldings are equipped with a fork-shaped lock, which is included in the disk lock of the support, and is locked with a wedge.
A scaffold crossbar with a cup connection is attached so that the racks have steel cups welded at a certain height, into which a T-shaped crossbar lock is placed, the lock is fixed on top with a wedge nut.
Modular scaffolding is made of galvanized steel pipes with a diameter of 48 mm. Supports are available with a square base, screw and wheel. The maximum height of the scaffolding reaches 60 m, they are attached to the wall with anchors.
Scaffolding type selection
When the question arises about the choice of one or another type of scaffolding, then one should think about the purposes for which these scaffolding will be used. The first step is to assess the scope of work, the time of their delivery, whether there are sites for the location of the scaffolding, what kind of building is the structure, and so on.
For finishing and masonry work at low heights, frame scaffolding may well be suitable, but if the height is significant, then it is better to use pin or clamp scaffolding. You should also take into account the carrying capacity of each type of scaffolding.
If the facade of a building has a complex geometric shape, has ledges, arches or a dome, then it is best to choose clamp or wedge scaffolding.
When choosing scaffolds, it is also worth considering their cost, which depends on the type of structure, size, carrying capacity and material. You can save money if you qualitatively calculate their need or combine several types of forests.
But the most important factor when choosing scaffolds is the safety of workers, therefore it is necessary to test the scaffolds for strength before starting work, require them to have convenient ladders and safety boards, and also check the fastening points for reliability.
When building a residential building, many processes must be performed at a height, and therefore one cannot do without reliable scaffolding. The most optimal solution is to make scaffolding with your own hands, then you do not have to pay rent and waste time on transporting the structure. They are made of wood and metal, and depending on the material, the assembly technology has certain differences.
Scaffolding design and types
Both wooden and metal scaffolding have the same elements:
- support posts;
- stairs;
- decks and lintels for him;
- enclosing railings;
- stops;
- horizontal and diagonal braces.
Wooden structures are easier to assemble - they are smaller in size, and all the details are knocked together with nails. At the same time, such scaffolds are not designed for heavy loads, their dismantling takes time, and re-assembly will be less durable, since holes from nails remain in the beams. Scaffolding made of metal pipes is much stronger, they can be easily extended if necessary, and the reliability of the connections remains high no matter how many times the structure is disassembled and reassembled.
Wedge forests There are 4 main types of scaffolding depending on the fastening methods.
Table. Types of forests
| Types of forests | Description |
|---|---|
| frame | metal structures made of vertical frames, fastened together by diagonal and horizontal struts. These scaffolds are lightweight and easy to install. |
| wedge | very reliable and durable structures, all elements of which are fixed with special holders |
| pin | rarely used scaffolding, which is light and easy to assemble, can withstand very heavy loads, but are too expensive and put a lot of pressure on the ground |
| yoke | they are versatile scaffolding, perfect for buildings with complex geometric shapes. The assembly process is quite laborious, but if necessary, the shape of the structure can be easily changed horizontally and vertically |
How to collect wood scaffolding
To make it convenient to work on the scaffolding, there must be a distance of 2 to 2.5 meters between the racks, the width of the flooring is at least 1 m, and the total height of the scaffolding is a maximum of 6 m. Based on these parameters, an approximate design drawing is drawn up.
To work you will need:
- timber 100x100 mm;
- boards 30 mm thick;
- boards with a section of 100x50 mm;
- nails;
- hammer;
- level;
- roulette;
- Circular Saw.
The wood must be firm and dry, without cracks. Damp wood will make the structure heavier, moreover, it can deform after drying. Since the scaffolding is required only for the construction or decoration of the house, it is not necessary to treat them with antiseptic compounds and do not need to sand.
Step 1. Making the frame
4 beams are cut to the height of the scaffolding and placed on a flat area. Now they take 2 beams of 4 m and 2 beams of 3.6 m each, and nail them from the inside to the support beams: smaller ones along the upper edge, 4-meter ones - along the bottom. You should get two identical trapezoids, which should be additionally reinforced with diagonal struts.
Step 2. Assembling the frame
The frames are raised, installed vertically one opposite the other and temporarily fastened with the sidewalls: the distance between the lower edges of the racks should be 1.15 m, between the upper edges about 1 m.Check the location of the sidewalls horizontally with the building level, and if everything is correct, they firmly knock down the frame with nails. The finished structure should have a pyramidal shape and strictly horizontal sidewalls from a bar.
Step 3. Installation of the flooring
The floorboards must be nailed to the upper cross-bars. It is best to fill them along the width of the frame; boards are laid close, without gaps at the joints. Additional cross-members are attached to the sides of the frame, which can be used as stairs.
Prices for various types of building boards
Construction boards
Assembling metal scaffolding
In private construction, it is most convenient to use frame metal scaffolding with wooden flooring. They consist of several sections, the number of which depends on the length of the building and its height. Steel and aluminum racks are suitable for the manufacture of sections; if heavy loads are expected, it is better to choose steel elements. The standard section is 1.5 m high, 1 m wide and 1.65 to 2 m long.
For work you will need:
Step 1. Preparing the spacers
Blanks for spacers are cut from pipes with a diameter of 15 mm: the length of the horizontal ones is 96 cm, the diagonal ones are 2 m. After that, 6 cm long cuts are made at the ends of the two-meter tubes and flattened. This will make it easier to attach the struts to the studs.
Step 2. Making adapters
To build up the scaffolding, you will need connecting elements - adapters. They are made from shaped pipes: pipes 25x25 mm are cut into pieces with a length of 30 cm, and workpieces with a length of 8 cm are cut from pipes 30x30 mm. Short workpieces are put on long ones and welded in the middle to eliminate shifts.
Step 3. Assembling the frame
Two vertical struts are interconnected by horizontal struts, welding them every 30 cm. The resulting frame is in the form. The second frame is assembled in the same way. Square plates of 70x70 mm are cut out of sheet metal and welded flat to the lower ends of the support posts. Thanks to this, the racks of the section will not fall into the ground, although on soft soils, dense wooden planks are additionally laid under the metal plates.
Step 4. Section installation
Two frames are installed vertically opposite one another and diagonal struts are tried on. The attachment points are marked with a marker, then holes for bolts are drilled in the racks and spacers. Connect all parts to each other and check the horizontal level of the upper crossbars with the level. If the design is skewed, you will have to additionally adjust all the elements, otherwise it will be difficult to resist on the scaffolding.
Step 5. Making the flooring
Decking boards can be laid in two ways - along the length of the section and across. For transverse decking, horizontal pipes are bolted to the sides of the structure at the level of the upper struts. For longitudinal flooring, boards are taken at least 2 m long, knocked down along the width of the section, reinforced from below with transverse bars from deflection.
To prevent the flooring from moving during operation, a metal U-shaped profile should be fixed at its ends along the thickness of the spacer. To do this, lay the finished shield on the scaffolding and mark a line from below with a marker where the horizontal spacer touches the boards. In the same way, markings are made from the other end of the shield. Next, take a profile with a width of 17-20 mm, cut it to the width of the flooring and screw it to the boards with self-tapping screws on the marked lines. Now, when the deck is laid on the scaffolding, the spacers will be inside the profile, which will prevent the boards from sliding.
Step 5. Painting the forests
Metal scaffolds are designed for reusable use, which means they need protective treatment. Since scaffolding is more often used for outdoor work, the frame is covered with corrosion from dampness, especially at the attachment points. Therefore, after manufacturing and checking the scaffolds, each element should be sanded, wiped off dust, primed and painted. Wood flooring is also treated and painted to protect it from moisture and decay.
Prices for poles, shaped pipes
Poles, shaped pipes
Video - DIY scaffolding
