Drywall partition design drawing. Gkl - partitions for different purposes

It is produced in residential, public or industrial buildings according to the developed technologies of the manufacturers of these structures. Being a prefabricated structure, a plasterboard partition is mounted according to certain rules to ensure thermal, noise and damp conditions in the room.

By following the general rules for installing plasterboard partitions, you ensure the quality and durability of the structure, as well as prepare the quality of the further finishing of the partition. Let's formulate partition wall rules on the basis of TU and SNiP on this topic. They will undoubtedly come in handy for those who are renovating or building their home.

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General rules for the installation of plasterboard partitions

• It is necessary to mount partitions in the warm season or in a room with heating;
• All rough finishing works, namely, plastering of walls and ceiling, floor screed installation must be completed;
• If the partition is not planned for electrical wiring and plumbing, then these works must be completed;
• If electrical wiring and plumbing are planned in the partition, then communications must be laid to the installation site of the partition;
• When laying communications in a partition, it is necessary to ensure their safety and not damage them on the sharp edges of the profiles or screws when attaching sheets. That is, the electrical wiring must be laid in an electrical corrugation or pipe, and the water supply must be protected with bushings;
• The frame in the doorways is strengthened with a wooden beam for durable hanging of the doors;

Partition frame

• The guide profiles of the metal frame of the partition are attached to the floor, walls, ceiling through a sealing tape, such as Dichtungsband. It increases the sound insulation of the partition and plays the role of a layer from deformation. In other words, if you put a layer, then the joints between the sheets will not crack after puttying and painting;
• Rack-mounted partition profiles are installed after 60 cm (between the centers of the profiles). For short partitions, the distance between the uprights can be reduced to 40/30 cm;

• The height of the rack profile must be 10 mm less than the actual distance between the guide profiles on the floor and ceiling. That is, the rack profile should freely enter between the guides, it does not need to be hammered;
• It is advisable to use a special tool for drywall to connect the profiles - a cutter. Alternative to the notcher, connection with screws LN 19 mm;
• Mineral wool is used for soundproofing partitions;

Drywall sheets and their fastening

• Sheets of drywall, which will sheathe the frame of the partition, must be brought into the room for acclimatization;
• A joint is attached to the frame of drywall sheets. The joint should fall in the middle of the profile, with the exception of the extreme profiles;
• The second layer of drywall is displaced by a multiple of the distance between the uprights (the "spread" of the sheets). The run-up cannot be less than 400 mm;
• When using drywall sheets with a straight, rather than a folded edge, folds, 20 × 2 mm, must be removed from the edge of the sheet. They are needed for better putty joints;
• Drywall sheets are attached to the frame with TN type screws. The screw is recessed into the sheet by 1-2 mm. This is necessary for better puttying;
• The screw should go straight into the frame, clinging to it by 10 mm;
• For single-layer sheathing, screws TN 25-30 mm are used. Mounting pitch 250 mm;
• With two-layer sheathing, the first layer is fastened with 30 mm screws, with a pitch of 750 mm. The second layer is fastened with TN45 mm screws, with a pitch of 250 mm;
• In three-layer partitions, the first layer is fastened with 30 mm screws, with a pitch of 750 mm, the second layer with a pitch of 500 mm, with TN45 mm screws, the third layer with TN55 mm screws, with a pitch of 250 mm.

Partition finishing

• Before puttying, the edges and joints of the sheets are primed;
• Before puttying the common surface, the joints are glued with a sickle with putty. If necessary, puttying the seams is done twice. With multi-layer sheathing of the partition, internal joints do not need to be glued;
• The surface of the partition is puttied two-three-four times. The last layer of putty is finishing.

Partitions in wet rooms

• In wet rooms, moisture-resistant drywall is used for partitions;
• The junctions partition ceiling, partition-wall, partition-floor are glued with tape and covered with sealing mastic.

It's all rules for installing plasterboard partitions which I would like to present in this article.

Quite often in new apartments there are rooms that are too large, which would be better divided into two smaller rooms. Drywall partitions help to cope with this task. The hl device allows you to make an excellent partition that does not let in noise and retains heat in both newly formed rooms. Installation of gypsum partitions is a simple matter, so quite often a gypsum partition is made by hand. How to make a drywall partition, you will learn from this article. Also, you can learn about the advantages of a plasterboard partition with your own hands, and get acquainted with the intricacies that the installation of plasterboard partitions includes with step-by-step instructions.

What is this article about

Advantages of drywall

Before you start creating a drywall partition with your own hands, you need to answer one important question. Why is it best to use drywall partitions to divide a room? Why are other options worse? The fact is that drywall sheets have a number of advantages over other materials.

• Installation of plasterboard partitions is very easy, since this material is extremely easy to process.
• The material is quite light in itself, which facilitates the installation of drywall partitions.
• Installing drywall partitions will require a minimum investment of time.
• Due to the cheapness of the material, the installation of plasterboard partitions is relatively cheap. So you can make a drywall partition with minimal financial costs.
• If you are thinking about how to make a drywall partition as similar as possible to the rest of the walls in the house, then you don’t have to worry. Plasterboard sheets are practically no different from the main walls.
• The device of partitions from drywall and drywall allows you to lay all the necessary communications directly through the frame.
• A variety of niches and designs go well with such artificial walls, so the construction of HL partitions can be called quite flexible.
• The device of a plasterboard partition creates a much more reliable sound insulation than an ordinary wall.
• The device of partitions from HL is a dust-free process. Of course, cutting drywall sheets or gypsum-fiber counterparts will create a lot of debris, but the installation itself does not carry dirt around the room.

To build a partition with your own hands from drywall, first you need to assemble a frame from metal profiles. The device of partitions from hl also allows the construction of a wooden frame, but this, roughly speaking, is already the last century. Therefore, it is better to put the assembly of metal.

Types of profiles for creating a frame

To build the frame we need, simple ceiling profiles will not work, since the installation of HL partitions requires a stronger fastening. For such structures, special guide profiles are used, which are called PN or UW. They come in different sizes, but they all have one length - three meters. They are used in the same way as ceiling guides.

Rack profiles for partitions are called PS. It is important that the rack profiles have exactly the same width as the guides, otherwise the frame will not be installed. It makes no sense to even try to mount such profiles in the apartment together. Unlike guides, rack profiles have different lengths - from three to four meters. Other sizes are provided for cases with high ceilings.

It is advisable to choose profiles that are wide enough, but not if you are going to build a two-layer sheathing. Think about this before attaching the frame.

Tools and materials

In order to make a partition, you will need the following.

• Guide metal profiles
• Rack metal profiles
• Tape to reinforce fastening
• Dowel-nails to secure the gypsum structure
• Cord breaking device
• 2m laser or bubble level
• Plasterboard sheets twelve and a half millimeters thick
• Serpyanka
• A hammer
• Roulette
• Stationery knife
• screwdriver
• Perforator
• Self-tapping screws for metal
• Self-tapping screws with a pers-washer
• acrylic primer
• Putty
• Metal shears
• Spatulas

To calculate the consumption of materials, you can use our calculator:

• Partition in 1 layer GKL
• Partition in 2 layers GKL

*Attention! All results are approximate - the accuracy depends on the material of the walls, the condition and shape of the room

Frame installation

Before proceeding with the installation of the frame, you need to draw up its diagram yourself in order to have a clear idea of ​​\u200b\u200bwhat the device of partitions from hl should be like. This is done quite easily, you just need to draw up a technical map of the frame. The technological map must contain all the design parameters. The internal technology for drawing up a drawing may differ for everyone, but all important nodes must be present in it so that the installation of hl partitions does not suffer.

Next, you should mark the walls in order to clearly see what needs to be mounted and where. At this stage, a laser level will help us a lot, which will allow us to make a fairly even drawing on the walls and on the floor so that we can navigate it during repairs. Along the location of the future partition, apply the same lines to the floor, ceiling and walls, which should be in the same plane. Once you've done this, attach along the lines the metal profiles that form the base of the frame. Attach them to the wall with self-tapping screws. It is better to use a screwdriver or a puncher for this operation.

It is important to remember that the step between the fasteners should be approximately thirty to forty centimeters. It is these profiles that you need to pay attention to in a special wall. Especially on their fastening, since these profiles form, as it were, the foundation of the entire frame, which means that they serve as a support for all structures and take on the bulk of the load from the weight of the partition.

Next you need to install vertical racks. There is one important nuance with their location. The distance between them directly depends on the width drywall sheet. The fact is that one drywall sheet should be located on three rack-mount metal profiles. Two rack profiles are located on the sides drywall sheet, and the third - exactly in the middle. It is very important that two sheets located side by side rest with their edges on the same rack profile of the frame. Based on this, you need to determine the distance between them.

The installation of rack profiles can be started from any wall on which a profile is installed with self-tapping screws, which acts as the basis of the frame. From it you need to count sixty centimeters, half the width drywall sheet. These are the places where the rack profiles need to be fixed to the ceiling and floor main profile.

Creating a doorway

For any partition you need a doorway. You will not completely limit part of the room from yourself, will you? The profiles of the doorway are under the most intense load, so it is important to pay special attention to them. It is necessary to install profiles with a shelf towards the opening. To give maximum strength and rigidity, you need to insert a wooden beam and fix it from the inside with self-tapping screws. The size of the beam, at the same time, must fully correspond to the size of the profile, and fastening with self-tapping screws is carried out along the side shelves.

The doorway is formed by one cross member, which determines the height of the future door by its size. To do this, an opening in the shape of the letter P is formed from the profiles. It must be installed and secured with its feet up. The size of the horizontal post in this design determines the width of the doorway, and hence the width of the door.

If you want to make an arch in the doorway, then the shape in the form of the letter P will not work. Approximately the same design is made, but with the appropriate configuration. We'll have to bend the horizontal rack. To do this, use scissors for metal. With their help, we make cuts on the profile along the entire length. After that, it will easily bend without losing its strength.

Windows and shelves in the partition

One of the possible non-standard solutions may be the installation of windows in the partition. This is done easily. The same principle is used as in the case of the doorway. You just need to install horizontal profiles between the racks according to the size of the window opening. The easiest way to implement this solution is to mount cross profiles between adjacent racks, but in this case you are very limited in terms of window size. The standard width will be sixty centimeters. If you want to install a narrower window, then you will have to install vertical ones between two horizontal profiles in order to reduce the width of the opening. To do this, cut pieces of profiles of the desired size and install them between the cross-sections. This method will allow you to install as many windows of the desired size, so you have the opportunity to create a unique design built on small windows.

Installing shelves has some technical difficulties, which makes many abandon this idea. Shelves are either built-in or hanging. Hanging shelves are much easier to install. They are installed in the same way as on a regular wall, but with built-in shelves, everything will be much more complicated. To install them, it is necessary to change the structure of the frame. The lower part of the partition will have to be expanded, and the middle part will need to be expanded horizontally. If you do not have sufficient funds and time, then you should not start such changes in the design.

sheathing drywall sheets

The plating process is pretty standard. Plasterboard sheets are attached to the frame on both sides with self-tapping screws. If this is necessary, then two layers of drywall sheathing are installed. In this case, the partition will give an additional advantage in the form of strength, sound insulation and thermal insulation.

Drywall sheets will have to be cut, and if you did not make any windows and built-in shelves, then the space will need to be left only for the door. Otherwise, it will be necessary to trim the skin so as not to close the window opening. This is not a complicated procedure, but it has one nuance. A lot of drywall will go nowhere, since the remains of the cut sheets are unlikely to be used with benefit.

This completes the installation of an interior partition made of plasterboard sheets. It remains only to putty the partition and do the design. Here you can let your imagination run wild or find your favorite style among the examples below.

Some of the above interiors will require not only finishing, but also changes in the structure and design of the partition.

Plasterboard interior partitions are an ideal solution for residential and non-residential premises. Complete systems offered by both domestic and foreign companies allow you to implement the tasks in the shortest possible time and avoid unnecessary procedures. The main building elements of the structures are, which are joined together strictly according to technology and auxiliary components.

Advantages of drywall partitions

Compared to other materials, GKL partitions have many advantages:

• The simplicity of the device;
• No wet processes;
• Easy disassembly of the structure or its part in case of complete dismantling, or the need to replace the damaged area;
• Versatility. GKL is mounted in any premises, including those with high humidity conditions and fire safety requirements (GKLO, GKLV, GKLVO);
• Ideally smooth surface after mounting sheets, ease of further finishing;
• Light weight;
• Small cash costs - 800-1000 rubles per m2 (without the involvement of specialists - 400-500 rubles / m2).



Attention! The device of the wall between the rooms refers to redevelopment. Before starting repair work, you must contact the BTI to legalize the process. Possible consequences - a fine of up to 2.5 thousand rubles. (in apartment buildings), or the need to bring the premises back to their original form (dismantling).

When can I use a GKL partition

The use of drywall for arranging a wall between rooms is the best and always relevant option.



In addition to the advantages described above, the owner of the apartment gets the opportunity to create a full-fledged structure, in which, if necessary, you can knead.



Types of interior partitions

The frame between the rooms, followed by sheathing with plasterboard sheets, is of 2 types and differs:

• By material;
• By device type.



As a building material, either galvanized metal profiles are used. Horizontal guides and vertical racks made of wood must be made of softwood and comply with GOST 8486-86. The main requirements for them are impregnation with antiseptic and flame-resistant compounds, humidity - no more than 12%. The recommended sizes of guides and rack bars are 6x4 cm and 6x5 cm.



Metal elements are created on roll forming equipment from steel strip by cold rolling. They have a length of 50 cm to 5 meters. Profiles are stiffened by longitudinal corrugations. Cutting of components is carried out with metal scissors, docking with each other - with cutters, self-tapping screws. To assemble the frame, profiles of 2 types are used:

• PS (rack-mount);
• PN (guides).



Rack profiles are used to form vertical racks, which, in turn, are placed between guides (PN) fixed to the floor and ceiling. The standard width of rack profiles is 5 cm. It is quite enough for productive work. The chance to get past the canvas while fastening the sheets with self-tapping screws is extremely low. The width of the guide profiles is 4 cm. They are also used to form jumpers.



The size of PS and PN is chosen based on the height of the interior partition, the requirements for soundproofing material, the number of layers of plasterboard. For example, with a future wall height of 3 meters, its thickness should be 7.5 cm. For this, the PN 50x40 mm and PS 50x50 mm profiles are suitable (the fastening step is 60 cm.) The thickness of the insulation is assumed to be 5 cm.

By type of device partitions are:

• Single-layer, two-layer, three-layer on a single metal frame;
• Two-layer on a double metal frame;
• Two-layer on a double divorced metal frame (a space is formed inside for placing communications);
• Single-layer and double-layer on a wooden frame.



Single and double metal frame, sheathed with two or three sheets on each side, is used as a fire wall and is distinguished by increased sound insulation properties.

Structures, based on the number of layers, have a certain height that must not be exceeded to ensure the safety of the system. In this case, the indicators depend on the type of profiles used and the step of their location. So, the maximum height for the wall:

• Single layer - 8 meters (step - 30 cm);
• Two-layer - 9 m (step - 30 cm);
• Three-layer - 9.5 m (step - 30 cm);
• Two-layer with a double base - 6.5 m (step - 60 cm);
• Two-layer with a double divorced base - 6.5 m (step - 60 cm).



The greater the height of the partition, the less the step between the rack profiles is chosen. For wooden bases, the maximum height does not exceed 4.1 m. The distance of the bars from each other is taken to be 60 cm.

Step by step instructions for the device

Installation begins after the wiring of utilities, wet processes and before the formation of the final floor. Work is carried out in the following sequence:

1. markup;
2. Mounting guide profiles;
3. Fastening rack profiles;
4. Laying wires through special holes;
5. Installation of embedded parts in places of future hanging of heavy objects on the wall;
6. Installation of drywall on one side;
7. Placement between the racks of insulating material, if necessary;
8. Installation of GKL sheets on the other side;
9. Sealing seams, primer;
10. Floor covering;
11. Finishing.

Depending on the required wall height, the number and thickness of plasterboard layers, sound insulation requirements, select the appropriate profiles. With a single-layer sheathing of 12.5 mm, a structure height of 3 meters, a thickness of 7.5 cm, take profiles PN50 (50x40 mm) and PS50 (50x50 mm). Take the step between the racks equal to 60 cm. Similar racks and guides are suitable for heights of 4 and 5 meters, only in increments of 40 and 30 cm. In the guide profile, pre-drill holes for dowels at the required distance from each other, if they are missing. Do the same on the floor.

Step 1

Draw a straight line in the place where you want to place the partition (on the floor). Use a marker and a ruler for this. Transfer similar lines at the same level to the ceiling and walls. Use a plumb line, or better - a building level, it's faster. If you plan to install a door, make markings for it.

Step 2

Stick the sealing tape on the guide profile. Lay it on the floor along the marked line. Fix with plastic anchors. Follow the same steps for screwing the MO to the ceiling, only using metal anchors.

Step 3

Take the first rack profile. Its length should be less than the distance from the floor to the ceiling by 10 mm. Place it in the space between the guides in their grooves (near the wall). Fasten the elements with self-tapping screws of the LN or LB type, at least 9 mm long, with a notcher, or with an air gun. Mount the second vertical profile, then all the others with the desired pitch. Consider the fact that the joint of the sheets should fall in the middle of the profile. Glue the soundproof tape at the place where the GKL is to be connected to the ceiling on both sides.

Step 4

Install the first sheet of plasterboard closely. Fix it with self-tapping screws in increments of 25 mm so that there is a gap of 1 cm between it and the floor. Connect from the center to the edges or in two perpendicular planes, without fixing drywall to the rails on the floor and ceiling. In places of horizontal joints of the GKL, place additional profiles to stiffen. Place them apart. Repeat the process until the entire frame is lined on one side.

Step 5

Lay electrical low-voltage wires in the space of the future wall through the holes in the profiles (perpendicular to the vertical posts). Lay soundproofing material (avoid voids). Connect the sheets to the profiles so that their horizontal joints do not coincide with those on the opposite side. In this case, the vertical joints should be shifted by a step of racks.

Note! If planned, additional racks are mounted under it, which are obtained by joining two PN profiles with each other. A horizontal jumper is placed between the posts at the desired height. Additional vertical racks are placed between it and the ceiling.

September 28, 2016
Specialization: a professional in the field of construction and repair (a full cycle of finishing work, both internal and external, from sewerage to electrics and finishing work), installation of window structures. Hobbies: see column "SPECIALIZATION AND SKILLS"

To figure out how to make a drywall partition - even the simplest one - is worth any master. The thing is that structures on a metal or wooden frame, sheathed with gypsum boards, have a quite acceptable load-bearing capacity, while they are quite easy to assemble, and, if necessary, just as easy to dismantle.

An additional advantage of such a solution is its economy: if we need to redevelop at minimal cost, then there is no better material to be found. Finally, the manufacture of drywall partitions is one of the most effective design techniques: by erecting one or more false walls, we can radically transform the room by dividing it into functional zones.

In any case, the technique is quite relevant, so the time that you need to study it will definitely be well spent. Moreover, below I have collected only the most important information, verified from personal experience.

What do you need to work

materials

When planning the construction of plasterboard partitions, we need to first take care of the materials. The key role here will be played by the drywall itself, as well as the profile for its installation:

1. For sheathing, we purchase sheets of drywall with a thickness of 12.5 mm (GOST 6266-97 "Gypsum board sheets. Specifications"). As a rule, when constructing structures in residential and utility rooms, standard drywall is used, but when dividing a bathroom into a separate bathroom and toilet, it is better to take a moisture-resistant one. Although this material is more expensive, it better resists swelling when moistened.
2. Separately, it is worth mentioning the fire-resistant gypsum board (GKLO) and the combined version, which provides resistance to both moisture and high temperatures (GKLVO). The scope of their application is very limited, since where there is a risk of ignition, such partitions are very rarely erected - but it must be borne in mind that such sheets also exist!

1. I prefer to make a frame for a partition from a galvanized steel profile. For the perimeter, we need a guide profile (PN / UW) from 50 to 100 mm, for vertical supports - a rack profile (PS / CW), the width of which will correspond to the width of the guide elements.

The guide profile is available in panels of a standard length of 3 m. With a rack profile, everything is a little more complicated: there are products of 3, 3.5 and 4 m. You need to choose according to the height of the ceiling in the room, since vertical rack extension is highly undesirable. So be sure to take this into account when calculating!

1. Sometimes, instead of a steel profile, a wooden beam impregnated with an antiseptic is used to make the frame. A partition made of bars and drywall can be cheaper, but in terms of strength it will be inferior to a structure with a metal base. In addition, wood is more prone to deformation, so I practically do not use this option. .

In addition to drywall and frame elements, we will need other materials for arranging the partition:

• suspensions and other fasteners for plasterboard;
• sealing tape, which is laid between the frame and supporting structures;
• fasteners (self-tapping screws, dowel-nails with plastic sleeves, etc.);
• wooden beam for decorating a doorway;
• perforated corner for designing the corners of the structure;
• primer for GKL;
• putty on drywall;
• serpyanka tape for gluing seams.

If necessary, the partition can be insulated or filled with a sound insulator - accordingly, for this you will need to purchase suitable materials (mats based on mineral fiber and analogues). It is also allowed to lay wiring inside such partitions: we will need the wires themselves, cable channels made of non-combustible material, socket boxes and bases for switches.

Instruments

To fix the frame to the wall, concrete drills are needed

On the one hand, the construction of drywall partitions does not require the use of special devices, and therefore everyone can cope with this task. On the other hand, the set of tools for working with a profile and drywall is still extensive, and without it, work can become seriously complicated.

Be that as it may, I prefer to get down to business only with the following at hand:

1. Perforator with a set of drills for concrete.
2. Cordless screwdriver.

We immediately purchase a special bit-nozzle for GKL, which allows you to tighten the screws exactly to the desired depth. The price of this device is purely symbolic (100 - 150 rubles maximum), but how much time and nerves it saves!

1. Crowns for cutting holes for the installation of sockets and switches.
2. Scissors for metal (if a frame is being built from a bar - a saw for wood).
3. Roulette.
4. Level.
5. Plumb.
6. Hand tools - hammer, pliers, etc.
7. Painting knife with replaceable blades.
8. Drywall saw (you can do without it, but it is more convenient with it).
9. Planer for cleaning the ends of the GKL and for jointing the seams between individual sheets.
10. Brushes for priming the surface.
11. Spatulas for finishing plasterboard.

Also, it will not be superfluous to think in advance how exactly we will carry out the sheathing. In standard houses or apartments, there are usually no difficulties, but in a room with a high (3 m or more) ceiling, you will have to use a special rack - otherwise it will not work to fix the profile and the sheathing under the very ceiling.

Information for budgeting

When designing a plasterboard partition, it is necessary to estimate the amount of financial costs in advance. If we plan to do everything with our own hands, then our budget will be limited only to the purchase and delivery of material. Of course, the cost of components for GKL partitions in different stores (and even more so in different regions) is different, but the general order of numbers can be found from the table I compiled:

Material	unit of measurement	Average cost, rubles
Drywall standard	sheet 2500x1200x12.5 mm	200 — 250
– moisture resistant	—	250 — 280
– fire resistant	—	300 — 450
Guide profile PN	panel 3000 mm	75 — 300
Rack profile PS	panel 3000 – 4000 mm	150 — 350
Corner perforated profile	panel 300 mm	40 — 125
Hanger for straight profile	thing	10 -30
Single level connector	thing	10 – 30
Sickle ribbon	roll 20m x 50mm	30 — 60
Sealing tape	roll 20m x 50mm	200 — 300
Dowel-nail for fastening the profile	200 pieces	320 – 450
Self-tapping screw for drywall	1000 pieces	250 – 500
Putty Fugenfuller	Packing 25 kg	350 — 550
Putty Uniloft	Packing 25 kg	1100 — 1500

Mounting technology

markup

So, we have finished with everything necessary, now let's look at how to make the partitions strong, even and beautiful. To date, the technology for mounting structures with plasterboard sheathing has been worked out very well and is described in sufficient detail in regulatory documents. In my work, I focus primarily on:

• SP 55-101-2000 "Enclosing structures using plasterboard sheets";
• SP 163.1325800.2014 "Constructions with the use of gypsum board and gypsum-fiber sheets, design and installation rules";
• VSN 27-95 "Instruction on the technology of installation and finishing of prefabricated plasterboard partitions on a metal frame of a piece-by-piece assembly", etc.

In addition, the work should take into account the fire safety rules (SNiP 2.01.02-85, SNiP 21-01-97 and similar documents).

Let's start with the markup:

1. We free the room in which the structure will be installed - in any case, it will interfere with us. We dismantle all finishing materials: the frame must be installed exclusively on the bearing surfaces of the floor, walls and ceiling.
2. On one wall, we set aside the distance we need twice: once - on the floor, the second time - on the ceiling. We connect the obtained points, controlling the verticality of the line with a plumb line.

1. We repeat the operations on the opposite wall.

1. On the floor and on the ceiling we connect the resulting verticals: we should get a rectangle, which will form the contour of our partition.

1. In the selected place, we mark the boundaries of the passage. If it is planned to install a door, then we make the passage wider than required - we will need a margin of space for the door frame.

Drawing and calculations

After that, we make a drawing on a sheet of paper, transferring the actual dimensions of our partition to it.

Be sure to designate the front and back side of the structure in the drawing. If this is not done, then there is a risk “in the park” to lay a door or other opening on the wrong side from which you planned. There were precedents!

1. On the drawing, we mark the attachment points of the vertical rack profiles. The optimal profile pitch is 60 or 40 cm (respectively, 2 or 3 racks per standard sheet of GKL 120 cm wide). It is undesirable to deviate from these figures, since in this way we will increase the consumption of material.
2. Focusing on the drawing data, we calculate the number of profiles required for the construction of the frame. It is quite simple to consider the guide profile: we calculate the perimeter of the partition, divide the resulting figure by the length of one panel and round it up.
3. With rack profiles, everything is somewhat more complicated. We need to determine the number of racks (each requires a separate profile panel) plus add the total length of the horizontal jumpers - they will be needed if we have to sheathe a partition with a height greater than a standard GKL sheet, i.e. over 2500 mm.

In the drawing, it is also worth “sketching” the layout of the sheets. I usually make two schemes - for the front and the wrong side. So it is much more convenient to adjust the placement of sheathing sheets, trying to ensure that the joints of the plates on different sides fall on different racks. For example, from the front surface, the joint falls on the third and fifth supports, and from the inside - on the second, fourth and sixth.

1. When calculating, it is worth focusing on the configuration of your particular partition. To determine the material consumption, you can use the sketch above, illustrating the possible layout options for the GKL and the frame configuration.

After completing the calculations, we purchase the material, not forgetting about the stock: even experienced craftsmen have marriage, and it is better to have an extra sheet of plasterboard and an extra profile panel on hand.

Frame installation

Now I will tell you how to make a partition on a metal frame. We begin work with the installation of guide profiles:

1. Using scissors, I cut the guide profile panel to the width of the room, after which I paste a sealing tape on its flat base.

1. I lay the panel on the floor in such a way that one of its faces (often the front) runs exactly along the marking line.

1. Using a puncher with a drill, I drill holes in increments of 40 to 60 cm. The depth of the hole should be equal to the length of the plastic dowel + 5-10 mm.

1. I hammer a plastic dowel into each hole with a hammer so that its neck is tightly pressed against the metal.
2. I fix the dowel with a locking screw with a conical point - first I hammer the fasteners with a hammer, and then I make two or three turns with a screwdriver or a screwdriver to tighten.

In a wooden house, it is better to install the frame not on dowels, but on wood screws. For fastening, I would recommend using phosphated fasteners with a wide head and deep thread, twisting it without pre-drilling - this will turn out to be many times more reliable.

1. Using the same algorithm, I install guides on the walls and ceiling, forming a rectangular frame.

1. Next, I attach the racks. I cut each part so that its length is 8-10 mm less than the height of the room, insert it into the guide profile and align it with a plumb line. After that, I fix the rack with self-tapping screws from below and from above.

The stiffener should look in the direction from which the skin begins. I usually fasten the sheets, moving from left to right, therefore I orient the profile with stiffeners to the left.

A little about fastening. Some craftsmen use special profile pliers instead of self-tapping screws, which work on the principle of a hole punch, punching a hole in the metal and bending the carved fragment for fixation. I tried it, but I didn’t find this device particularly convenient: it might just take some getting used to.

Another nuance concerns the hats of self-tapping screws. Sometimes (almost always) they make it difficult to tightly press the GKL to the profile, so I use a little trick: I attach the racks to the guide profile only on one side (from the inside). Then, when the GKL is sewn on the front side, I unscrew these screws and mount the wrong side trim. The rigidity of the connection, if it suffers, is insignificant.

I connect the racks with crossbars, which I install at the junction of the sheets horizontally.

1. A few words should be said about the doorway. Vertical racks along its edges must be strengthened. To do this, we insert into them either one more section of the profile (the configuration of Knauf parts allows this), or we lay wooden bars, which we fasten with self-tapping screws.

1. I do the door partition (lintel) like this: I cut off a fragment of the rack profile about 20 cm more than the width of the opening. I cut the side faces exactly according to the dimensions of the opening, after which I bend on each side along the resulting segment of 10 cm. I insert the part between the side posts of the doorway and fix it with self-tapping screws.

1. I definitely put at least two vertical posts above the door lintel - on them I will join the sheathing sheets from different sides.

Now that the frame is ready, we proceed to the final operations. So, at this stage, I usually make holes in the racks and pass a cable channel through them with wires for sockets and switches.

GKL sheathing

Instructions for installing drywall sheets on a prepared frame are not difficult. If we have prepared the load-bearing elements taking into account all the requirements, then the skin will go smoothly. If something is missed - and this happens even with experienced craftsmen - then you will have to correct the situation on the go, fortunately, there are quite enough opportunities for this.

1. So, we start work from one of the corners (in our case, the left one). We cut the sheet of drywall on one side, cutting off about 5 - 6 cm - this section is usually made with a bevel and rounding to form more reliable joints.
2. Sheets are cut with a knife or saw. Of course, it is advisable to adapt a workbench or a durable long table for this, but if it doesn’t work out, you can simply cut the slabs on the floor, placing a wooden plank under the cut. It is best to cut from two sides: they cut the sheet almost through, gently broke it, turned it over and cut through the cardboard on the other side. So the ends will turn out more accurate.

1. We apply the GKL sheet to the frame so that the distance between the lower edge and the floor is about 10 mm (protection from moisture). Using self-tapping screws for plasterboard, we fix the sheet on the frame. The optimal fastening step is 15 cm, while it is desirable to indent from the edge of the sheet at least 10 - 15 mm.

1. For the reliability of fixing drywall on the profile, it is very important that the screws are tightened correctly. In this case, the hat should be recessed by 0.5 - 1 mm, but not break through the cardboard layer. It was to comply with this rule above that I recommended using a special bit with a limiter: a metal ring simply will not allow us to tighten the self-tapping screw more than necessary.

1. The next important aspect is the joining of sheets. You can connect the edges only on the rack profile. The significant width of such parts makes it easier to fit (1-2 cm in one direction or another does not play a special role), but still, sometimes you have to trim the edges of the plasterboard. When trimming, it is desirable to clean the end with a special planer and immediately chop off its corners by 450 - this way we will greatly facilitate the process of puttying the joint.

1. When joining any elements, remember that the attachment points and seams should not coincide. So, we twist the self-tapping screws on adjacent sheets “in a row”, and lay the drywall panels with a seam offset. For example, when installing a partition in a house with a ceiling height of 2.8 m, first we put a whole sheet from below, and a narrow strip from above, and then vice versa - a narrow fragment from below, and then a whole sheet to the ceiling.

1. Having sheathed one side, we pass to the other. At this stage, it is convenient to lay heat and sound insulating panels into the frame, make holes for socket boxes and switches with wiring output, etc.

1. On the other hand, we perform sheathing according to the same algorithm. At the same time, I would like to remind you once again: if a joint was fixed “from the front” on one rack, then from the inside, the joint should fall on the adjacent support.

Finishing sheathed structure

After the installation of drywall is completed, the interior partition must be prepared for finishing - painting, wallpapering, applying decorative plaster, etc. How to do all the operations at this stage correctly - I will tell below.

The whole process can be roughly divided into four tasks:

1. Masking defects in flat areas of plasterboard sheathing.
2. Masking of places of fastening of self-tapping screws.
3. Sealing seams between sheets of plasterboard.
4. Forming the corners of the structure.

Here it is best to work according to this scheme:

1. First, we check if the self-tapping screws protrude above the drywall plane, and if necessary, we twist them. Let's not overdo it!
2. We cut off the peeling of cardboard, after which we carefully clean such areas with sandpaper. We do the same with any defects on flat surfaces.
3. If we have not done this before (very in vain!) - we embroider the seams. To do this, carefully cut off the edges of the docked slabs with a knife, exposing the gypsum layer.

The joint of two whole panels with rounded or beveled ends does not need to be additionally embroidered. In any case, I limit myself to one or two passes of coarse sandpaper for better grip.

1. We process the surface for better adhesion.
2. We prepare a fairly thick putty (or buy a ready-made one - it will be more expensive, but less fuss).

1. Using putty as a thick glue, we glue a perforated corner profile on all corners, and strips of serpentine tape on all joints. We process these areas in such a way that the putty covers the sickle and the perforated corner. Completely filling all holes and cavities under them.
2. We align the corners first on one side, then on the other. With a square, we control the perpendicularity of the resulting planes.

1. We process flat areas with putty, masking all defects and places of fixation of self-tapping screws.
2. At the final stage, we overwrite all surfaces with abrasive material. Large grains are enough for decorative plaster, but for wallpaper, and even more so for painting, after starting grinding, it is imperative to complete the finish - with a fine-grained mesh or sandpaper.

Conclusion

I hope that after studying this article, you can easily figure out how to make a drywall partition on a metal frame. Of course, visual examples are indispensable, so you can use the illustrations and videos in this article. In addition, I will answer all questions regarding the arrangement of partitions in the comments or in the appropriate section of the forum.

We bring to your attention a master class on the manufacture of plasterboard partitions. In the article you will find all the information necessary for a novice installer. We will also designate the technological and operational features of the GKL piers.

Partitions made of drywall panels, assembled on a metal frame, have long been considered classics of the genre. Abroad, such designs have been successfully used for several decades. They appeared in our country in the nineties and literally fascinated developers and professional builders with their functionality. At first it was difficult to find all the necessary materials, and there was almost no information about the technology of mounting frame partitions (the craftsmen had to work using their general construction knowledge and often native Russian ingenuity). Now we have fully complete systems and detailed technological maps from manufacturers at our disposal. Never before has the organization of the internal space been so simple. These are truly versatile systems that are especially good for redevelopment during renovations.

Now, after many years of trouble-free operation of drywall walls, we can safely say that the fears of skeptics regarding reliability and durability have not materialized. Such partitions can be enclosing structures inside any heated premises, including where it is damp, fire resistance, and penetration protection are needed.

Ten Reasons to Choose Drywall Partitions

Let's look at the main advantages of GKL partitions. We will limit ourselves to ten points, but in fact this list is much longer:

1. dry technology. Okay, almost dry - there's no getting away from puttying, but this is nothing compared to any other options that require full-fledged plastering or so-called leveling. In addition, brick or block masonry itself also needs to be dried.
2. The weight. Again, no competition. The load on the subfloor or ceiling will be minimal (for a single-layer lining, the mass per square meter is about 25-30 kg). You can safely mount such a partition over wet and dry screeds, wooden floors, on weak Khrushchev slabs, etc.
3. Load bearing capacity. There has never been such a thing that it was impossible to reliably hang something on a plasterboard wall. Volumetric dowels for hollow structures work wonders - on a sheet 12.5 mm thick, one attachment point holds up to 30 kg. Officially (data from the Knauf company): a kitchen cabinet 30 cm deep and 80 cm wide, suspended on two fasteners (one layer of plasterboard), can be safely loaded up to 50 kg. This is anywhere on an unprepared wall. The numbers are much more interesting if you fix objects to rack profiles or with multi-layer sheathing of the frame. Very heavy things (up to 150 kg) can be mounted on such walls if wooden or steel embedded elements are provided inside the partition. Boiler, cast-iron radiator, ceramic washbasin - no problem. How to do this - we will tell below.
4. Soundproofing. It is always possible to lay acoustic insulating materials between the supporting profiles. For a normal living space, the right mineral wool will provide the best sound absorption of air waves among all partitions of the same thickness (insulation index from 44 to 56 dB). Impact noise is localized by the use of damper pads under the guide profiles. A properly assembled drywall partition does not “bump”, the profiles do not “rumble” when the interior door is closed. If you need to create a super-protected space, you can apply multi-layer lining, cladding with special panels, assemble a complex frame (two rows of racks). With an array, the same results cannot be achieved.
5. Moisture resistance. Moisture-resistant drywall works great in bathrooms, especially if it is covered with a special mastic. Excellent performance is demonstrated by all kinds of cement-based aquapanels. If there are very unfavorable neighbors upstairs, then the “green” HA can be applied throughout the apartment, and in order to protect the cotton wool from getting wet, the mats can be wrapped with polyethylene. Profiles for the subsystem are also not afraid of moisture, as they are galvanized.
6. The presence of cavities. Inside the frame partitions it is very convenient to carry out various engineering communications. This is an excellent outlet for the kitchen and bathroom, where it is necessary to dilute the sewerage, plumbing, heating, and electrics. For the convenience of mounting tracks in metal racks, there is a special perforation, additional windows can be cut out with a grinder. Mortise electrical boxes and shields, plumbing boxes, etc. can be easily placed in the partition.
7. Any configuration. Partitions of any shape are available: round, wave, with oblique angles, niches, arches, openings. The possible height is up to 9.5 meters, the length is not limited (only compensating expansion joints are needed every 15 meters). You can fix the partition to the false ceiling and to sheathed walls (both on the frame and on the mounting adhesive).
8. Penetration protection. A topical issue in public spaces - offices, warehouses, offices and more. The problem is effectively solved by more frequent arrangement of racks (30 cm along the axes), multi-layer sheathing and screwing to the frame (immediately along the profiles or between the layers of the cladding) sheets of galvanized metal 0.5-1 mm thick.
9. Low cost. With a traditional single-layer sheathing, a plasterboard partition is about half the price of a brick one (with plastering) and by about 15-20% compared to tongue-and-groove gypsum systems. This applies to both the cost of materials and installation costs.
10. Ease of installation. Anyone can master the technology, it is much easier than sheathing walls or ceilings. The fact is that here you don’t need to set up a frame by thread, which is usually a real stumbling block for beginners. Although the installation is painted by the developers inside and out, in fact, the frame GKL partitions forgive their builders many shortcomings and mistakes. Cracks and differences in planes on partitions are a rarity. And yet, from the power tool you only need a screwdriver and, possibly, a light hammer drill. The speed of construction is a record. Two qualified people (master installer and assistant) can easily assemble the frame and sew up a partition with an area of ​​about 15-20 m 2 in an eight-hour shift.

Technology for the construction of plasterboard partitions

It is best to start installation after the installation of the subfloor (it is easier to mark the contours along good planes) - although technologically wet and dry screeds can be done after partitions. As we have already said, wall frames can be fixed to ceilings and walls wired with plasterboard. In other words, there are no restrictions in this regard. One person can erect the frame of the partition and produce sheathing, but the markup has to be done together, since a chopping cord and a plumb line are used everywhere. The most productive work will be in the master + assistant link.

markup

In order to take out the dimensions and location of the partition from the drawings in kind, as a rule, they are repelled from any load-bearing wall. If our frame runs parallel, we simply set aside two points at the required distance and connect them, it’s a little more difficult to achieve perpendicularity. Very short partitions can be marked with a large square, or if you attach a sheet of drywall in place.

However, for large structures, errors from manual fixtures can be critical, and it is better to use a laser tool (square, builder). A good way to get an exact right angle is to draw an Egyptian triangle in which the mutually perpendicular sides are a multiple of 3 and 4, and the diagonal is a multiple of 5.

We recommend marking lines for plasterboard partitions with a chopping cord, a tracer. First, the contours of the partition are measured and marked on the floor, and only then transferred to the ceiling, although some manuals suggest doing the opposite. When working with a tracer, be very careful that the cord does not cling to anything, be sure to carefully sweep the floor.

Now, with the help of a plumb line, we transfer our markup to the ceiling. For each line, you need to have two risks, which we will also connect with a tracer. One person presses the plumb line to the ceiling and, at the command of the assistant, smoothly shifts it until the tip is aligned with the bottom line. The one who corrects the weight at the floor should gently stop the cone with his fingers, preventing it from swinging. When everything came together, a mark is placed along the axis of the thread.

It is interesting that some installers mark the ceiling from an already drilled profile, but the PN shelves are often bent somewhere, which significantly distorts the picture.

At this stage, we suggest immediately marking points on the floor that indicate the edges of the doorway, if any. Most importantly, do not forget to leave a margin of 20-30 mm, so that later a mounting gap of 10-15 mm is formed near the door block on each side.

We strongly recommend (although few people do this) to connect the ceiling line with the floor line on the wall with a tracer - at this stage this is done quickly and easily. So we get a vertical markup to control the installation of the wall profile.

Frame assembly

The width and length of the used profiles is selected depending on the required parameters of the partition. In most cases, the frame made of PN-75 and PS-75 profiles will be optimal in width, which, with a single-layer lining, form a wall 100 mm wide. It makes sense to use the fiftieth profiles only if the cladding will be done in two layers.

Before installation, the PN profile (guide profile or UW) must be pasted over with a damper tape from below. Also, for anti-vibration decoupling of partitions with enclosing structures, a sealant can be used, which is applied on the back side with two threads into special grooves.

We lay the prepared PN segments along the marking lines and fix them through the mounting holes. Fastening into the mineral massif is carried out with dowels "quick mounting" 6x40 mm - it is necessary to drill holes with a perforator. In hollow structures, holes are drilled with a drill and special drop-down dowels are used. For metal and wooden bases, self-tapping screws with a press washer are used.

During fixation, in addition to line control, be sure to apply a rule to the PN from the side, since even a high-quality and wide profile is easily bent by an arc. In the area of ​​​​the doorway, the profiles are fixed with two dowels; for reliability, even more fasteners can be installed.

Attention! The installation of the guide profile on the floor should be done first of all, so as not to fall asleep and trample the marking line.

End vertical profiles are inserted into the ceiling and floor guides. Sometimes here, by analogy with false walls, they put PN, but it is more technologically advanced to use PS, since two guides superimposed on each other at the corners of the frame then slightly distort the plane. Then the extreme PSs are pressed against the wall, in accordance with the markings and with the obligatory use of the rule, they are fixed.

Now that the full perimeter of the partition is in place, you need to mark the points for installing the racks. The step of PS profiles (UW) must be a multiple of the sheet width (1200 mm) - 30, 40, 60 cm along the axes. The first option is anti-burglary, the third one is for ordinary walls in residential premises. The second step of 40 cm is the most common, it is also mandatory for arranging partitions that are tiled, as well as if three-layer lining is used.

The marks, according to which the PS is installed in the design position, are set with a tape measure on the shelves of the guide profile, and on both sides of it. Unlike the arrangement of false walls, these marks do not indicate the centers of the rack profiles, but their edges. We recommend that the first marks on the ceiling and on the floor be correlated with each other using a plumb line, and then measure the rest from them, so all the racks will become strictly vertical.

We prepare PS-profiles piece by piece along the length and insert them into the guides. The length of the posts should be 10 mm less than the height of the room at a particular point; for sagging floors and in seismic zones, this gap should be 20 mm. If utility lines will run inside the partition, then insert the rack profiles so that the perforation windows are opposite each other - then the route will run strictly horizontally.

Attention! The shelves of all substations must be oriented in the same direction, with the exception of only one rack that forms the doorway.

Rack profiles with the help of cutting pliers or self-tapping screws LN 9 mm with a drilling end are fixed to the PN shelves. This is done on both sides of the partition, near the floor and near the ceiling.

The next step is to form the frame of the opening. If a door block is installed here, then the racks need to be reinforced. To do this, two PS profiles are assembled into a rectangular box. As an addition, a dry, even beam is inserted into it to the full height from one side of the section 40 mm (it will freely enter the box). After inserting the beam, the prefabricated element of the opening is scrolled with LN self-tapping screws from the facing side and TN 25 self-tapping screws from the opening side (the wooden beam is attracted to the metal). If you use a perfectly prepared timber that will fill the PS from shelf to shelf, then there is no point in assembling a box-shaped structure to organize an opening.

A jumper should be installed between the racks at the required height (be sure to take into account what mark the finishing floor will rise to, and make a gap margin above the door of 2-2.5 cm). The jumper is made from trimming PN, which is cut out in the form of a double-sided "stick". Also, the short parts of the "club" can be bent down. We fasten this element strictly horizontally through the eyes to the racks, using four or five self-tapping screws on each side.

Between the jumper and the ceiling PN, short PS profiles are inserted; they must be separated from other frame elements with a given pitch in order to ensure the joining of the sheathing sheets. It is also necessary to orient their shelves in the right direction.

Sheathing of the subsystem with sheets

Facing panels with long edges with a thinned edge must be joined in the middle of the rack profiles without fail. The sheets are mounted in the direction where the shelves of PS profiles look, then the shelves will not bend under the action of self-tapping screws. If there are not enough sheets in height to close the entire partition, then they must be placed with a difference in height between the joints.

Drywall is put in the design position and scrolled with TN self-tapping screws for metal with an interval of no more than 250 mm. 15 mm should be retreated from the edge of the short side, and at least 10 mm from the edge of the thinned edge. At the joints of adjacent sheets, self-tapping screws should go with a run-out of 10-20 mm. All fasteners are screwed in strictly at right angles to the frame so that the pot head does not break through the top cardboard layer.

Attention! Between the sheet and the enclosing structures, a gap of 7-10 mm should be maintained, therefore, temporary linings suitable for the thickness are used in the floor area.

In order for the short joints of the sheets to also be on the metal, measured sections of the TsD or PN / PS profiles are screwed to them between the racks. When screwing in the self-tapping screws of the additional short sheet, one should not press hard on the jumper so as not to tear it off the panel on which it is already fixed.

If the sewing is carried out in several layers, then the vertical joints of sheets of different tiers must be made on different racks.

A very important point is the docking of drywall on the opening. To avoid cracks, the sheet should always be wound onto a short post located above the door (at least 20 cm).

When the lining of the partition on one side is made, it is possible to carry out the necessary communications, insert embedded elements. It is convenient to use moisture-resistant plywood 20-30 mm thick as mortgages for heavy objects, OSB and dry timber can also be suitable. Sheets of plywood of a suitable size through the body of drywall (between the racks) in the specified places are screwed with a large number of self-tapping screws. Mortgages for low-lying weights (for example, heating radiators) can rest against the floor.

At this stage, a soundproof layer is laid in the cavity of the gypsum board wall, after which the frame is sewn on the other side. Sheets entering the opening are cut off with a saw and a knife, the cut edges of all panels are embroidered.

Attention! The joints of the sheets with which different sides of the partition are sheathed should not fall on the same bearing rack.

The device of corners and junctions

Docking of GKL partitions (T-shaped and corner) should be done only through a sheet of drywall. It is recommended to fasten the mating frame with metal screws (35 mm long) to the mortgage post of the adjacent wall, therefore additional substations should be provided in the right places.

A difficult knot is an indirect angle. To organize it, the extreme profiles of the PS of the mating planes are installed in the guides as close as possible to each other, and then on both sides of the corner they are twisted with curved strips of galvanized metal with a thickness of 0.5 mm. The bandwidth should be sufficient to reach neighboring substations. The corner is tied to the entire height of the seam.

Round plasterboard partition

To make a curved partition, the guide profile is cut with a grinder into sectors 5-10 cm wide. Along the outlined radius, the PN is fixed with a large number of fasteners - at least one dowel / self-tapping screw must be used for each sector.

Racks on roundings are inserted with an interval of no more than 300 mm and are fixed in the design position in accordance with the general rules.

Radius sheathing can be done in three ways:

1. Two layers of arched drywall 6 mm thick are placed horizontally. The pairing of the two-layer sheathing with flexible sheets and the single-layer sheathing of the main partition must be brought to the plane of the main wall.
2. The wall GKL panel 12.5 mm is pricked with a spiked roller, moistened by spraying and deformed on the template, after which it is screwed horizontally (the minimum allowable radius is 1000 mm). Rolling is performed from the front side for the outer arc and from the back side of the sheet for the inner arc.
3. The 12.5 mm wall sheet is cut into sectors about 5 cm wide (the remaining layer of paper cannot be damaged) and screwed vertically to the frame. Then the structure is stretched with putty.

As you can see, the technology for making drywall partitions is quite simple. If you perform all operations carefully and follow the rules indicated by us, you can assemble any piers of any complexity, because this is just a constructor.

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