We build a garage out of metal with our own hands. A metal garage is easy and simple

If there is no possibility and desire to build a major garage, then you can opt for a metal structure of the type in question. It is easy to build it, this process does not require any specific knowledge, and you can build a garage from metal both by welding and using a bolted connection.

Despite the simplicity of the design, it is necessary to follow the stages of building a metal garage - only in this case your vehicles will “use” their “home” for a long time.

Table of contents:

Foundation for a metal garage

It is believed that for such a light, not capital, garage, it makes no sense to create a solid, classic foundation. Experts recommend making the foundation shallow (20-30 centimeters deep into the ground) and not wide (maximum 25 cm). Another option is to pour a reinforced concrete slab over the entire area of ​​the future garage - such a foundation will also serve as the floor of the building.

Whichever of the proposed options would be chosen, you must adhere to the following recommendations of the masters:

Experts recommend pouring the foundation in one go - the structure should be monolithic. In principle, this task is easily accomplished - there is no need to “put on” too large an area in the foundation (metal garages are designed for one car), you can prepare a concrete solution directly at the construction site in a compact concrete mixer.

Making a metal garage

It is believed that the optimal dimensions of the structure under consideration are 3.3 * 5.5 meters, the maximum length of a metal garage should not exceed 6 meters. It is worth considering one important point - if it is planned to carry out work on the insulation of a metal structure, then 15-20 centimeters will need to be added to each size.

For the manufacture of the frame of the structure under consideration, you can use metal square corners - they have the necessary strength, and you can weld / connect them together directly at the assembly site of the structure.

Step-by-step instructions for making a frame for a metal garage:

1. First of all, the lower frame of the future metal garage is welded. It is during this work that the corners of the frame must be welded to the pieces of reinforcement, which was previously embedded in the corners of the concrete foundation.
2. The next step is to weld vertical posts to the finished lower frame.
3. The front part of the future metal garage should be equipped with two vertical additional posts - these will be the entrance gate.
4. All installed / welded uprights are interconnected by an upper frame.
5. The bearing racks of the roof of a metal garage are being manufactured / installed. This process has its own nuances:

• if you plan to make a pitched roof, then its upper part (rafters) should be higher than the rear ones - this is done so that water flows down the slope from the roof and snow rolls down;
• if a gable roof is planned, then it will be necessary to weld metal trusses in the form of a triangle, which are welded directly to the upper metal frame.

The intermediate uprights can now be installed. They are also welded to the lower and upper frames, keeping an even "step". It is worth knowing that the distance between the intermediate vertical posts is determined by the width of the metal sheets that will cover the entire structure. There is one caveat - if you plan to fasten the sheets using the overlap method, then the distance between the vertical posts should be 4-5 cm less than the width of the "finishing" material.

This completes the work on the construction of the frame. In order for a metal garage to acquire its true shape, it is necessary to sheathe the frame with metal sheets - they can be galvanized and / or non-galvanized, but in any case, the thickness of the material should be 1.2 mm.

Note:the roof is covered with metal sheets, moving from the overhangs to the ridge and observing the rule of overlapping the upper sheet with the lower one at least 15 centimeters.

The gates of a metal garage are made according to the same principle as the entire structure under consideration - first, a frame is made, then it is sheathed with metal sheets. In the manufacture of the structure under consideration, you can use a variety of types of gates, but classic swing gates remain popular specifically for metal garages.

How to insulate a metal garage

Many owners of metal garages are wondering about the advisability of insulating such a structure. Experts say that this is a purely voluntary matter, but in the absence of any insulation on the walls of the garage, condensation will certainly form, which destroys the metal.

The easiest way to insulate a metal garage, which most owners of such buildings use, is to install polystyrene foam plates on the inside of vertical metal racks. Mineral wool can be laid under these slabs and there will be a completely warm garage. But this method of insulating a metal garage has one significant drawback - expanded polystyrene belongs to the category of combustible materials, and the garage is not the place where you should ignore this moment.

The price that a car enthusiast pays for the safety and protection of a car in car parks and leased garages makes over time to think about how to solve this problem. If you have a piece of land that you own, welding a garage yourself is one of the most inexpensive ways to reliably protect your car.

The article will tell you how to do it right with your own hands.

Features of the construction of a welded garage

Before starting construction work, it is necessary to calculate its dimensions, which are influenced by the dimensions of the vehicle and the capabilities of the customer.

The optimal dimensions of the structure for storing passenger cars:

• Length - 5.5 meters.
• Width - 3.3 meters.
• Height - 2.35 meters.
• The dimensions of the garage door opening are 3x1.95 meters.

The construction of all buildings and structures begins with the foundation.

The choice of its type for a welded garage is influenced by the following indicators:

• The depth of the groundwater table.
• The depth of soil freezing.

Tip: The welded garage has a relatively low mass, which allows you to make a shallow strip foundation for it.

The sequence of work for such a foundation:

• The plot is being marked.
• The top layer of soil is removed.
• A trench is dug about the depth of a shovel's bayonet.
• The bottom of the trench is covered with a mixture of sand and gravel and rammed.
• Formwork is being installed. It is done above ground level by 15-20 centimeters.
• Reinforcement is laid in the form of a lattice, the diameter of its elements is taken to be about seven millimeters.
• A concrete solution is poured into the trench, embedded elements are pre-inserted into each corner of the foundation - metal pins, which should be 15 centimeters above the level of the foundation.

Advice: The level of the base should be made higher than the ground level, which will prevent the ingress of soil and precipitation into the garage in the future.

For further installation of metal structures, it is necessary to let the mortar stand for 28 days, covering the entire structure with a film, which will prevent rapid drying of the concrete.

How to install the frame

Installation of metal structures should be started with assembly.

It should be:

• Sturdy enough.
• Tough.
• Sustainable.

These requirements are met by a structure assembled from shaped metal rolling. Welding is used to connect parts together.

• Ready-made or self-made drawings for the garage are selected.
• The required amount of material is purchased, and the tool:

1. welding machine;
2. angle grinder;
3. drill;
4. grinding wheels;
5. plumb line and level.

• Workpieces are marked and cut out.

All installation work will be carried out directly at the site of the future garage in the following sequence:

• The frame is assembled for the lower belt.
• The structure is fixed to the pins protruding at the corners of the foundation.
• Vertical corner posts are installed. For a garage with a pitched roof, the front corner posts are 40 centimeters higher than the rear ones.
• The upper belt is installed.
• For the garage, roof trusses are mounted.
• Intermediate side racks and jumpers are installed.
• The gate is being installed.

Gate installation

They must be reliable and of high quality, and this depends not only on the material of manufacture, the type of gate, but also on how convenient they are to open and close. The last two requirements are influenced by garage hinges.

How to properly weld them to the gate in order to ensure accurate and even closing of the doors, prevent skewing, and also prevent the gate from deforming under its own weight, the instructions will help, which will tell you the criteria for their selection and installation methods.

Wherein:

• The shape of the hinges is selected, which can be:

1. cylindrical, the most popular and easy to install type of hinges;
2. hex;
3. tetrahedral.

• The number of elements is determined, which depends on:

1. from the weight of the flaps. For heavy structures, the mass of which is more than 150 kilograms, it is better to take three hinges;
2. on the intensity of use of the door block. The load is greater the more often the garage is opened and closed.

• Platics are selected for the welding of the hinges, which are suitable in size. They help to withstand the loads on the hinges, even with a large gate leaf mass. Plates are welded to the top and bottom of the hinge, as seen in the photo below.

• Before properly welding, garage hinges are pre-tacked to the gate leaves, maintaining the alignment of the hinges.
• A check is made to see how ideally the door fits into the garage opening.

Advice: When installing the gate, you should maintain a gap of up to 7 millimeters between their leaves.

• The gate leaves are set in a vertical position and the hinge plates are stuck to their posts. The bottom hinge is put first.
• The correctness of installation is monitored.

Tip: The plates should be finally welded after preliminary installation of both sashes to ensure their high-quality closing and opening.

• The hinges are scalded.

How to properly weld garage hinges, the video will show in detail.

• Eyes, latches, lock are installed (see). One gate leaf must be rigidly fixed. For this, overhead latches are attached at the top and bottom of the sash. There are several types of locks for garage doors:

1. hinged. They are the most popular, and in order to make such a lock more reliable, its eyes are placed as close as possible to the door leaf. This reduces the risk of burglary;
2. mortise;
3. waybills.

How to properly sheathe a garage outside

The next stage of construction is the cladding of the garage.

The material for sheathing the frame is taken:

• Sheet metal 2.5-3 mm thick.
• Profiled sheet, with a thickness of at least 1.2 millimeters. It is attached to the garage frame with self-tapping screws or welded around the perimeter.

Before assembly, you must select the type of welding.

The most common for this kind of work:

• Manual electric arc welding.
• Semi-automatic carbon dioxide welding.

In this case, semi-automatic welding will be used.

For a garage, this type of it has a number of advantages over welding with conventional electrodes:

• High quality seams that can be made in any position without additional backing.
• The ability to weld metals of small thickness, the likelihood of metal burn-through is reduced.
• Low toxicity when welding elements and no harmful vapors.
• Low cost of welding seams.
• Semi-automatic welding in the garage allows you to make high-quality welds, and it is much easier to handle such equipment even for a novice welder. It will be possible to make small repairs to a car or other equipment on your own.

Insulation of the garage

Since a metal garage is the coldest option for storing a car, many are asking the question: should it be insulated? However, significant changes in air temperature can lead to corrosion of the metal of the machine.

Therefore, if a decision was made to insulate your garage (see), the sequence of work will be as follows:

• A wooden crate is made inside the garage with a pitch of its elements of about 600 millimeters, which corresponds to the width of the insulation mat. The structure is treated with non-combustible impregnation.
• Waterproofing is attached with a construction stapler.
• Insulation is laid. Since the garage is a fire hazardous room, glass wool is most often used, which is staggered in two layers to cover the lower joints.
• The mats are sheathed on top with a vapor barrier.
• The inner lining is mounted. As it is used:

1. lining;
2. plywood;

• The gates are insulated.

Tip: Hang a thick fabric curtain near the gate to keep the warmth in the room. Tarpaulin is the most commonly used.

Floor arrangement

It is not necessary to insulate the floor in the garage.

In the absence of a cellar and a viewing hole under the garage, the sequence of work is as follows:

• Remove about 20 centimeters of the top layer.
• The surface is leveled with a crushed stone-sand mixture and rammed.
• The waterproofing material is laid.
• Reinforcement mesh is being laid.
• A cement screed is poured or paving slabs are laid on the cement mixture.

Manufacturing a welded garage allows the car owner to be calm in the future for the reliable safety of his car at any time. It can also store summer and winter tires, spare parts and many other little things that no longer have a place in the house.

Being in the open air has a bad effect on the condition of the car, and in order to protect transport from corrosion, it is necessary to build a garage for it. The desire to build a solid stone garage is not always feasible, in which case an iron garage will be the best way out. Its device does not require a lot of time and large investments. Such a building does not need a capital foundation, and the metal structure will last for more than a decade.

Preparatory stage

You can build an iron garage with your own hands without having a construction qualification; it is enough to act according to the technological sequence. The first thing to do is to complete the building blueprint. It should take into account the dimensions of the vehicle, workplace, shelves and racks. The following values ​​are usually taken:

• height - 2‒2.5 meters;
• width - 3‒3.5 meters;
• length - 6 meters.

Based on the finished drawing, they carry out the calculation and purchase of the necessary materials. For construction you will need: a metal profile, steel or profiled sheets, concrete, fittings, boards, gate hinges, insulation, chipboard or plywood for interior decoration.

1. Bulgarian.
2. Level.
3. Welding machine.
4. Roulette and marker.
5. Shovel.
6. Drill.

How to make a foundation

Any construction starts from a solid foundation. For an iron garage, it is enough to make a strip foundation or pour a reinforced concrete slab under the structure. On the site selected and cleared of foreign objects, a place for the foundation is marked according to the completed drawing. Pegs are hammered in the corners, future walls are marked with a stretched string. The parallelism of the walls can be checked by measuring the diagonals, if the values ​​are the same, everything is done correctly.

A ditch up to 30 cm deep and 40 cm wide is dug along the marked lines. A sand and gravel cushion is poured at the bottom, then a formwork made of boards is placed. It should protrude 20 cm above the trench. A polyethylene film is laid in the formwork as a waterproofing and reinforcement is attached. Anchors of at least 16 mm are installed in the corners, to which the frame of the structure will be attached. The formwork is poured with concrete and aged for a week until it gains sufficient strength.

Frame fabrication

1. The profile used for the garage frame should not have walls thinner than 3 mm in order to provide the necessary structural rigidity. Work begins with the formation of the lower part adjacent to the foundation. The sections of the profile, cut to a given length, are laid along the perimeter, welded together and welded to the anchors protruding from the concrete.
2. The next step is to install the corner posts. They must be set strictly vertically, referring to the level, and welded to the lower frame and anchors. Racks are made with a corner outward. Further, the rest of the vertical posts are installed, the distance between them is equal to the size of the steel sheet. To strengthen the structure, additional corners can be welded diagonally between the posts.
3. After installing the vertical supports, the upper frame is fixed.
4. The roof of a metal garage can be pitched or gable. In the first case, the front roof pillars are made longer in order to ensure the water flow back. For a gable roof, a special frame in the shape of a triangle is made. Its height is 0.5 meters. The structure is created using rafters welded to vertical posts, a metal corner and a ridge bar.

Wall and roof cladding

After the frame is made, sheathing with steel sheets or corrugated board is performed. The metal can be bolted or welded.

Note! Galvanized stamped sheets are damaged during welding, so it is better to fasten them with self-tapping screws.

When fixed by welding, the metal is cut to the desired length and attached to the corners, and then boiled together. The corrugated board is installed with an overlap of 5 cm and is bolted on. After finishing the cladding, the metal is primed twice and then painted.

Installation of the roof begins from the bottom, laying the upper metal sheets on the lower ones with an overlap of up to 15 cm so that water does not flow into the room. For reliability, the joints can be greased with a sealant. But it is preferable to use sheets equal in size to the slope, so that there are no seams.

Gates

The frame for the garage door is welded from the corner. Its structure is reinforced with diagonally welded fittings. The hinges are welded to the gates and posts. The outer side of the structure is sheathed with metal, and from the inside, the gate is trimmed with wood or other finishing material.

Insulation of an iron garage

The metal has a high thermal conductivity and it will be very cold in such a garage in winter. An insulated room has a high level of fire hazard, therefore, it is better to use non-combustible materials such as mineral wool as insulation. Foam plates are also used, which are placed between the posts, but this material poses a threat in case of fire. Mineral wool sheets are sewn up with moisture-resistant plywood or chipboard.

Note! Wiring in the garage is done before the insulation is installed.

A video describing the stages of building a garage will help you not to be mistaken on important issues.

Video

This video shows the process of building a collapsible frame of a metal garage:

This video shows how to insulate a metal garage with foam:

Photo

The best place to keep a car is considered to be a stone or brick garage, but the cost of such structures, even when erected on their own, is extremely high. For car owners who want to save money, the best option is to assemble a metal garage with their own hands. With proper assembly and insulation, such a structure can be used all year round.

Types of metal garages

Metal garages are in great demand among car owners, but it can be difficult to deal with the variety of goods offered. The designs of most garages are identical, the main differences are the place of production and the term of operation before sale.

Note! When buying a garage, ask the seller for a warranty and a manufacturing license; if you are making a deal to purchase a used product, check the title deeds and purchase receipts.

Factory kits

A prefabricated metal garage can be erected by 2-3 people using only a basic set of tools (hammer, wrenches, etc.). For a quality product, all fasteners and plug-in parts of the structure are easy to assemble and do not require fitting and the involvement of additional equipment.

Many firms engaged in such production offer delivery of the structure to the site or self-pickup. A significant disadvantage of buying such a garage is the high price. In addition to basic, ready-made sets, some companies offer custom-made production, taking into account the area of ​​the site, the dimensions of the car, etc.

Used prefabricated metal garage

On sites for the sale and exchange of used goods, you can find both factory-made and alternative collapsible designs. The advantage of such a product is its low cost (about 2-3 times lower than new factory models). However, before buying, it is worth considering some nuances. Many sellers do not disassemble and deliver the structure, and the fastening system of a used garage has natural shrinkage, which makes it difficult to disassemble. In addition, there is a high risk of deformation of the component parts, which will make assembly very difficult. It is worth beware of unverified sellers: many are selling other people's garages.

DIY built garage

The cheapest, but time-consuming option is to build a metal garage on your own from foundation to roof. When building such a structure, you can significantly save on materials. In addition, the necessary tools can be accumulated gradually, and then you can start building.

How to choose a foundation for a garage

Often, collapsible structures are operated without a foundation, but are installed directly on the ground or on a loose cushion. However, such a technique can significantly harm the car: moisture emanating from the ground will contribute to corrosion of both the garage and the car itself.

If you plan to make your metal garage not a temporary, but a permanent home for a car, then you cannot do without a foundation. The construction of a prefabricated garage begins with the choice of the type of foundation; the following types of structures are suitable for these purposes:

• Tape. This type of construction is optimal in terms of price-quality ratio. The advantages of the strip foundation include ease of construction and low cost of work. But it is worth remembering that it is possible to carry out work on the construction of such a structure only in the warm season.
• Monolithic. Like a strip foundation, this type of foundation is made of concrete. But monolithic structures require high costs and preparatory measures.
• Floating foundation (slab). If after the construction of the house there are concrete slabs left or you have the opportunity to buy a used kit, then such a structure will not require large expenditures. The slab foundation is made of slabs that are fastened with cement mortar, as a result, a monolithic structure is obtained.

Most often, car owners choose a foundation for a tape-type metal garage. The detailed process of erecting a strip foundation, what mistakes are often made during its construction, as well as the nuances of concrete structures, you can see in this video:

Regardless of what type of foundation was chosen for the garage, soil preparation is carried out. To do this, remove the upper grassy layer of soil, if this is not done, with further exploitation, the roots of the plants will rot, and the foundation will sag and swell.

Choosing a place for an important part of the construction. Plain, dry areas are best suited for these purposes. If there are swampy areas nearby or a high groundwater level, then you will have to take care of a drainage system to remove excess moisture from the area.

Creating a garage structure

For self-construction of a garage, you will need the following set of tools and materials:

• welding machine;
• Bulgarian;
• metal sheets from 2 mm;
• metal corner.

Before construction, it is necessary to make a drawing of the future garage. For a room where only a car parking is planned, the standard dimensions are 3.3 by 5.5 meters. If the garage will serve as a place for repair and storage of tools, then the area will be increased by another 1.5-2.5 meters. The height of the garage directly depends on the height of the owner and the brand of the car. If in the future it is planned to insulate the garage with a dense insulation (polystyrene, mineral wool), then add 15-20 cm to the area along each wall.

Metal frames, sheets and other parts are brought to the construction site disassembled, it is possible to erect the structure on your own in a day.

Construction begins with welding of the lower frame, it is welded to the outlets of the reinforcement from the foundation, so that the ends of the reinforcement are inside the building. Then they begin to fasten the vertical corner parts of the frame, they will become supports for the walls. On the front wall of the room, two vertical posts are welded, corresponding to the height of the future swing gates. All vertical posts are welded at the top with a connecting frame. The design can be either straight or pitched.

For a pitched roof, the vertical posts of the entrance wall should be 20-30 cm higher, depending on the angle of the slope and the size of the structure. When erecting a gable structure, the rafter system is welded to the upper frame.

Intermediate vertical and horizontal posts are welded to the upper frame and the base of the structure. The greater the weight of the metal sheets, the smaller the step between the structural elements.

Important! When welding metal sheets with an overlap, the distance between the intermediate struts of the structure is made 5-7 cm less than the width of the metal sheets.

When the frame is ready, wall sheets are bolted or welded to it. The recommended metal thickness is from 2 mm, the minimum is 1.2 mm. After the walls, they proceed to the roof, the sheets are welded from the main frame to the ridge, or from the rear wall to the front wall (in the case of a pitched roof). Sheets on the roof are welded with an overlap of 100-150 mm, so that the upper ones go over the lower ones.

Welding gate

Metal garage doors are created in the same way as the frame. First, a frame is welded from the corners so that the gate enters the opening, they are made 2-3 mm smaller. The sheathing is welded on top. The standard ones have two hinged sashes. Such fasteners are convenient in that the gate will open and close easily. Bearings are often attached to the hinges for optimal rotation of the swing gate leaves.

When assembling the gate, the place for the wicket is welded in advance from the same corners. When calculating and installing, it is important to take into account which side the gate will open. The place for the castle is carved out immediately. The gate is attached to hinges or other fasteners.

Insulation of the garage

Many car owners do not know how to insulate a metal garage, the main difficulties arise when choosing a heater. Styrofoam is often used to insulate a garage, but the material has a significant drawback - it is highly flammable. In recent years, mineral wool has been often used for these purposes. The material is made from organic compounds, which makes it safe for humans, moreover, it is not flammable.

Insulation of a metal garage with mineral wool can be done independently. First, a frame for the walls and ceiling is made of wood or metal profiles with a step of 50-60 cm. Then, insulation plates are placed inside the resulting cells, starting from the bottom. The second layer of mineral wool is laid on top in a checkerboard pattern, closing the joints of the previous slabs. From above, the insulation is sheathed with wood or drywall.

Important! When using wood for lathing under insulation, it is treated with fire retardants.

Hinged garage doors are insulated with foam plastic with a thickness of 2 cm, for this they use material treated against fires. Polyfoam is fixed in 2 layers in a checkerboard pattern with special glue.

The final stage of construction is painting the metal garage. For this, paints with anti-corrosion substances are used that meet fire safety standards.

Conclusion

Building a metal garage will not only help make space for your car, but will also give you excellent construction practice. A self-built garage will be a reliable home for your car. The main thing that you should not be afraid of during construction is to try something new and learn from your own mistakes.

For any car owner, a garage is a must. To reduce construction costs and do it on your own, you should pay attention to metal structures. Even without a lot of construction experience, it will not be difficult to assemble a metal garage with your own hands. The construction process includes several stages: design and layout, construction of the foundation, installation of a garage box and insulation of internal surfaces.

Before starting construction, you need to draw up a drawing of the garage and prepare the place where it will be installed. A metal garage can be of two types - stationary and on metal skids. The first option is considered more reliable and protected from car theft. Either welding or bolts are used to fasten the load-bearing parts of the box.

When drawing up a project, you should take into account not only the size of the car, but the place for lockers with tools, a vice and a work table. At the same stage, it is worth deciding whether there will be an inspection pit in the garage.

The foundation for such a garage is made of tape or slab. It should rise about 10-15 cm above ground level so that melt water does not flood the floor.

For construction you will need:

When all the tools and materials are prepared, they begin to clear the site. They remove tall vegetation, stones, mark the boundaries of the foundation. Using a tape measure, a square, twine and wooden pegs, markings are made for the foundation. The standard parameters of the base are 3.5x6 m, but may vary depending on the project.

Erection of the foundation for the garage

The area of ​​the slab foundation usually exceeds the area of ​​the building by 20-40 cm along the entire perimeter. Such a base is suitable only for those garages where there is no inspection hole. If a pit is needed, the foundation must be tape.

A pit 40-50 cm deep is dug according to the markings. The bottom is covered with a layer of sand, then there is a layer of crushed stone or gravel. A two-level lattice is knitted from reinforcing rods and laid on crushed stone. The edges of the grate must not touch the walls of the pit. Formwork 30-40 cm high is knocked down from the boards and placed along the inner perimeter of the pit. Outside, the formwork is reinforced with timber struts. The height of the reinforcement cage should be 2-3 cm lower than the formwork height.

In each corner of the foundation, you need to make additional fasteners for the garage frame. For this, pieces of reinforcement with a cross section of 16 mm are inserted at the corners between the grid cells so that they rise about 30 cm above the foundation surface. Then a concrete solution is prepared and the foundation pit is poured. To avoid cracks and delamination of the foundation, pouring must be done in one go. The base should dry for about a month, at first the surface should be periodically moistened and covered with a film from the sun's rays.

The inspection pit is dug at the same time as the trench for the foundation. The width of the trench should be at least 20 cm, the depth from 50 cm. The plank formwork is covered with foil and installed on both sides of the trench. The height of the formwork above the ground surface is about 20 cm. The bottom is covered with a sand-crushed stone pillow, and a reinforcement frame is mounted on top. In the corners, vertical rods are placed at a height of 30 cm from the surface of the foundation. Mix the ingredients for the mortar and pour the formwork. The top of the foundation is covered with a film and periodically moistened with water.

An observation hole is dug at a distance of at least 1 m from the walls of the garage. Its width, taking into account the thickness of the walls, is 1 m, the length is equal to the length of the car, but may vary slightly. The depth of the pit depends on the height of the owner of the car, but on average it is 1.5 m. While the foundation is drying, the walls of the pit are laid out with bricks or poured out of concrete.

To make a solid and even floor in the garage, the area inside the foundation is leveled, covered with sand and tamped well. A waterproofing film or roofing material is laid on top, a reinforcing mesh is laid and poured with a concrete mixture. Using a long strip, the solution is distributed over the site and the surface is leveled.

Step 1. Installing the load-bearing beams

After the foundation has dried, you can start installing the frame. First, the lower frame is welded from 4 metal corners of a large section and at the same time it is welded to the reinforcing rods protruding from the foundation. The rods must be located inside the perimeter. Pipes for vertical beams are cut to the height of the walls, placed in the corners and temporarily fixed with spacers. If the roof in the garage is single-pitched, the front pillars are made 20-25 cm higher. Further, the support pillars are leveled using a plumb line and welded to the lower frame, and then they fasten the structure at the top, connecting the racks together with corners.

Step 2. Installation of jumpers

To strengthen the frame along the perimeter of the garage, additional racks are attached from the corner. The distance between the uprights should not exceed 1-1.2 m. Reinforcing rods are welded diagonally as stiffeners. You can bolt the lintels by replacing the diagonal rods with horizontal corners or shaped pipes. In the front part of the frame, support posts for the gate are installed on the sides. A minimum of 20 cm must remain between them and the supporting vertical beams. The gate posts are reinforced with pieces of reinforcement, welding them at an angle to the lower and upper frame.

Step 3. Roof installation

The roof for a metal garage can be pitched and gable. For the installation of a pitched roof, the front and rear parts of the frame are connected with steel corners, which are reinforced with jumpers every meter. For a gable roof, longitudinal beams from a profile pipe are installed above the upper frame. Then, triangular rafters are mounted from the corner and fixed on the floors with a step of 1 m. After that, all the rafters are connected with one solid corner, welding it along the very top of the structure.

The finished frame must be properly sheathed with steel sheets. The cladding can be fastened by welding or bolting. If corrugated board is used as a sheathing, fastening is done in the second way, since welding destroys the protective polymer coating. Sheet steel is first cut with a grinder to the size of the walls, and then spot-welded to the uprights and lintels. On the roof, the sheets are laid with an overlap of 15 cm, starting from the bottom and leaving overhangs on the sides of the garage. Completing the sheathing, be sure to boil all the joints. If fastening is done with bolts or self-tapping screws, the side sheets are also overlapped, fixing the joints along the entire length.

Gate installation

The frame for the gate is assembled from the corner, reinforced with horizontal and diagonal bridges, and spacers made of rods are welded in the corners. After fixing the hinges, the frame is sanded, wiped from dust and covered with an anti-corrosion compound. Then the gate is painted, and when the paint dries, the doors are sheathed with metal. Having installed the lock, bolt and handle on the door leaf, they are installed in the opening and fixed on the hinges.

Any non-combustible material is suitable for thermal insulation of the garage. It is more convenient to work with slab insulation: the slabs are adjusted in size and inserted between the support posts. When using mineral wool, the corners of the material must not be strongly squeezed and crumpled, this increases the thermal conductivity of the material. To completely isolate the cold bridges, an aluminum profile is installed between the lower and upper frames along the perimeter of the walls at regular intervals. Having filled the space between the support posts with insulation, the second layer of mineral slabs is laid, pushing them behind the profile.

If the garage is insulated with polystyrene or polyurethane foam plates, the material is permanently glued to the wall surface. The joints should be very tight, all gaps and holes are blown out with foam. From above, the insulation can be covered with plaster or sheathed with sheet materials - galvanized, plywood, chipboard and others. After the walls, the ceiling is insulated using the same materials, and if desired, the gate can also be insulated.

Ventilation device

To avoid the formation of condensation on the walls and the accumulation of harmful gases and vapors in the garage, supply and exhaust ventilation is required. Making it yourself is not difficult at all. A small-diameter through hole is cut in the back wall at a distance of 15 cm from the ceiling. A piece of ventilation pipe is inserted into the hole and covered with a grill on both sides. Now in the front wall at a height of 20 cm from the floor, make the same hole for the air flow. If the garage has a large area, supply openings are made on both sides of the opening, and exhaust openings are made symmetrically at the corners of the rear wall.

Video - Ventilation device

Final finishing

When the inner work is done. Proceed to the exterior of the garage. If the walls are of simple metal, they must be primed and painted to protect against corrosion. The covering made of corrugated board does not need painting, therefore, external work consists in installing ebbs, outdoor lighting, wind strips for the roof. To enter the car, a platform is concreted along the width of the gate opening, and it should be located at a slope.

Video - DIY metal garage