Do-it-yourself suspended plasterboard ceiling. Do-it-yourself installation of drywall on the ceiling: four stages of proper installation Do-it-yourself plasterboard ceiling step by step

A design such as a plasterboard ceiling is ideal solution for the arrangement of premises of any type. This material is extremely popular in construction and repair work. GKL ceiling has a lot of advantages over other types of finishes. First of all, it is an opportunity to hide the curvature and other defects of the floor slab.

Ceiling drywall is an environmentally friendly material that is completely harmless to humans. Finished surface perfectly flat, without the slightest hint of sagging or height differences. The gap between the drywall and the carrier board can accommodate electrical wires, telecommunications cables and a ventilation system.

With proper processing, plasterboard ceilings can not only be painted and wallpapered, but also finished ceramic tiles and mirror panels. Let's look at how to make a plasterboard ceiling with your own hands, without involving hired labor?

During construction and repair, any type of plasterboard can be used for the ceiling. However, it is advisable to focus on ceiling version. Drywall for the ceiling has a smaller thickness (9 mm), which makes the sheets lighter and easier to work with. The decision on which drywall is best for the ceiling should be made only after assessing the conditions in which the suspended structure will be operated.

Varieties and application of GKL for the ceiling

When finishing various rooms, you can sheathe the ceiling with plasterboard of the following types:

1. ordinary. This material is used for cladding office, residential and office buildings, where a constant temperature and humidity are maintained. The outer coating of such products has a gray color and blue markings. Such a sheet has a small weight, which saves on material for the frame and reduces the load on the floor slab. Standard ceiling drywall is available in the form of plates 120 cm wide, 250 and 300 cm high. Ordinary gypsum board bends well when wetted and retains its shape after drying. The figured box and steps made from it look very impressive;
2. moisture resistant. In the manufacture of the filler for this material, silicone and antifungal drugs are used. To resist moisture, the mixture is placed in a special impregnated cardboard. It must be borne in mind that waterproof plates do not absorb moisture at all. Therefore, it will not work to give them a curvilinear shape. Install waterproof plates in rooms with a high level of humidity or in apartments where there is a high risk of flooding from the upper floors. The outer surface of this finishing material has a green color;
3. fire resistant. Fire resistance is achieved by adding special reinforcing additives to the material and impregnating it with antipyrine. A suspended ceiling is made of fire-resistant material in rooms where there should be an increased level of fire safety. These can be cash desks, archives, shield and bank vaults. Manufacturers paint refractory sheets in pink color or gray with red markings.

Having considered drywall models that can be used in work, it is worth dwelling on how a drywall ceiling is made. It's pretty simple work, which even a beginner can do, it is important to review the manual for working with the material.

Tools and materials

Manufacturing suspended structure from drywall sheets is an event that does not require the use of professional equipment.

To install the GKL on the ceiling, you will need the following tools:

• perforator;
• screwdriver;
• metal scissors;
• building level;
• hammer;
• roulette;
• plane;
• square;
• marker;
• wide and narrow steel spatula;
• mixer for mixing the solution;
• set of drills and crowns.

In order to protect the respiratory organs and eyes from dust, it is necessary to purchase a respirator and goggles. Since the work will be carried out at a height, stable goats or a stepladder will be needed.

To find out required amount material, we advise you to use our

The calculation of building materials is carried out on the basis of the prepared project. It indicates the type of construction (single-level, multi-level), frame schemes, electrical wiring, the location of drywall sheets and insulation, the location and type of lamps, sensors and other devices.

To make plasterboard ceilings with your own hands, you will need the following materials and fixtures:

1. starting and finishing putty;
2. mounting plastic tape;
3. self-tapping screws for metal;
4. breaker cord;
5. sandpaper;
6. abrasive mesh;
7. liquid primer;
8. drywall sheets.

Before making a ceiling of plasterboard plates, they must be allowed to lie down for several days in the room. This is necessary in order for the material to acquire humidity and temperature corresponding to the working conditions.

Preparatory activities

Despite the fact that the GKL completely cover the floor slab, it is necessary to take measures for its preventive repair and conservation. If this is not done, then the appearance of leaks, the development of fungus and mold is quite possible. Underestimating the preparation of the base plate for installation can lead to the most backfire such as the colonization of the space between ceilings by rodents and insects.

Before you start making plasterboard ceilings, you must perform the following activities:

1. if your house is being repaired, then check the condition of the roof and rafters. If necessary, carry out roof restoration;
2. remove from the room all interior items that may be damaged during the repair process. Cover other things with plastic protective film;
3. remove all communications, sensors and lighting devices from the carrier plate. Assess the condition of the wiring. If necessary, replace it;
4. remove the dilapidated finish and fragments of the floor slab that are not firmly attached to it. Clean cracks and holes;
5. repair all existing defects in the carrier plate cement mortar or synthetic sealant. Treat its surface with an antiseptic and a deep penetration primer.

Immediately after the primer has dried, you can start further work. In the course of their implementation, it is necessary to strictly carry out all the stages of activity in a certain sequence. Step-by-step instructions for each phase of work will help to make repairs efficiently and quickly.

Building a frame for drywall

The most practical and reliable option for creating a frame is to use a steel profile. The profile is completed with extension cords and connectors of various configurations and purposes. This allows you to assemble both flat and complex suspended structures on the ceiling.

We make a frame from a galvanized steel profile in the following sequence:

1. the height of the walls is measured in all corners of the room. In the lowest corner, a mark is made 10 cm from the floor slab. From this mark, a horizontal line is drawn along all walls. Lines parallel to the wall are drawn on the carrier plate with an interval of 60 cm;
2. holes are drilled along the drawn line in increments of 30-40 cm. After the plastic dowels are inserted into them, the UD profile guides are screwed to the wall;
3. is fixed on ceiling plate vertical hangers. The fastening step should be within 60-80 cm;
4. blanks of the supporting CD profile are sawn. Their length should be 35-40 mm shorter than the distance between the edges of the carrier profile;
5. the supporting profile is inserted into the openings of the guide profile. One of its ends is rigidly fixed with a self-tapping screw. The carrier profile is fixed in hangers. After fixing with self-tapping screws, the edges of the suspension are bent up or broken off. A self-tapping screw is screwed on the other end of the carrier profile;
6. sawn and fixed transverse parts. For their fastening, a cross connector (crab) is used. The result of the work is a steel grating with cells 50x60 cm.

After checking the frame for strength, electrical wiring and communication lines are laid. Electric wires must be placed in plastic PVC tube rigidly fixed to the floor slab.

Sheathing the frame with drywall

To fix the plasterboard ceiling with your own hands, you will need an assistant, since the sheets are quite large in size and weight. Work begins with the installation of a whole plate in one of the corners. GKL installation is carried out in rows. Each subsequent row is fastened with an offset of 100 cm or 120 cm, depending on the choice of fastening direction. The last row is cut so that the cut edge is facing the wall.

When carrying out the sheathing of the frame with drywall, it is necessary to adhere to the following rules:

1. joints of drywall sheets should be located only on the frame, otherwise sagging and cracks are inevitable;
2. self-tapping screws must be screwed into the frame through the sheets over its entire area. The fixation interval should be 15 cm. At the same time, it is necessary to control the screwing process so that the screws do not break through the cardboard shell of the plate;
3. a 2 mm gap must be left between the masonry fragments. It is necessary for the thermal expansion of the material;
4. cutting drywall is best with a sharp clerical knife. An incision is made on the front side of the plate. After that, she moves to the edge of the table, where the excess is broken and cut off. Ragged edges are smoothed out with a planer.

After the GKL is attached to the frame, the quality of the work performed is checked. The protruding screws are tightened, next to the self-tapping screws that have broken through the cardboard, new hardware is screwed in.

Putty plasterboard ceiling

By itself, drywall cannot be the basis for finishing. Its surface and structure are too fragile for such a purpose. After fixing the plates, there are many seams and recesses left by the screw heads.

The technology of applying putty between sheets of plasterboard

We putty drywall in the following sequence:

1. the GKL surface is cleaned of dust and small parts of gypsum. The identified defects are eliminated. The seams are treated with a primer;
2. plaster solution is mixed. It is pressed with force into the joints and holes from the screws. A sickle tape is applied over the joints and embedded in the solution. It will prevent the appearance of cracks;
3. the leveled surface is treated twice with a deep penetration primer. This is necessary in order to strengthen not only the outer shell of the GKL, but also its filler;
4. plasterboard is covered with mortar starting putty. The solution is drawn from the container with a narrow spatula and applied to a wide tool, with which the putty is applied to the surface with wide sweeping movements. All protrusions are immediately smoothed out;
5. the primer of the frozen starting putty is carried out. After the soil has dried, a finishing putty solution is applied, which removes all irregularities;
6. the surface is treated with an abrasive mesh and sandpaper. The quality of grinding and polishing is determined by the type of finish. Before painting, the surface must be leveled with jewelry accuracy;
7. the ceiling is cleaned of dust and covered with a primer. After that, it is ready for applying the finishing cladding, which can be used as paint, wallpaper or tile;
8. connection and fixing of lighting fixtures, fans and various sensors is carried out. The joints between the drywall and the wall are covered with skirting boards. If a wide plinth is glued to the wall 5 cm from false ceiling, then it will serve as a good basis for attaching the backlight in the form of an LED strip.

How to make a plasterboard ceiling on your own, it is known that it is important to consistently complete all stages of work.

Photo gallery of finished plasterboard ceilings

Overhaul in an apartment or house involves the complete replacement of all finishing materials, flooring and ceiling. According to experts and ordinary people, the most difficult process is the repair of the ceiling. Bringing the old ceiling into proper shape is a long and laborious process. This is due to the unevenness of the tiled floors with their different levels. In order to eliminate such defects, it is necessary to resort to modern technologies, as an option, you can use a system of stretch ceilings. But such a ceiling is quite an expensive option.

In order to save money and time, you can make a false ceiling from plasterboard. Its advantages include relatively simple installation and not very high price. How to make a false ceiling from plasterboard with your own hands, we will consider in this article.

Necessary tools for installation

In order to independently make a false ceiling from drywall, you must first prepare everything necessary materials and tools. So that in the process of work there are no problems with the lack of a particular tool. Because it will delay work. In order to get started, you need the following tools:

• Water or laser level, it is necessary for the most accurate marking along which the guide profile will be installed. The water level is not expensive, but it has great accuracy. Two people are required to operate it. If the budget is not limited, you can purchase a more expensive option - this is a laser level.

• Level. The length must be at least 2 meters, which will determine the evenness of the fixed drywall.
• A perforator is required during the installation of the profile frame.
• Screwdriver, you can also use a drill. They are necessary to fix the profile and drywall.
• Smaller tools, but no less important, include: a tape measure, at least 5 meters, a fitter's knife, with spare blades, a pencil, metal scissors. Also, if possible, you can use a grinder with a circle for cutting metal or a hacksaw.

False ceiling materials

After all the necessary tools have been prepared, it is necessary to purchase materials from which the suspended ceiling will be mounted.

Suspended ceiling profile

In order to properly make a metal profile frame, it is necessary to purchase two types of profile: guide and ceiling. To obtain a high-quality design, it is recommended to use profiles from the same manufacturer. In order to calculate the amount of the guide profile, it is necessary to measure the perimeter of the room. For example, for a 5x4 room, you need to purchase 7 pieces (and one spare) of three-meter profiles. If you buy profiles 4 meters long, then you will need 5 pieces. If installation is planned multi-level ceiling it is necessary to calculate the length of the additional structure. The ceiling, C-shaped profile is calculated according to a different scheme. The plasterboard sheet has a width of 1250 mm, its fastening must be done in increments of 600 mm. For such an example of a room, it is better to use a profile 4 meters long, this will reduce the amount of waste. For marking, a five-meter wall must be divided into equal parts of 60 cm, as a result, 8 ceiling profiles are needed. This calculation serves as the basis for calculating the required number of profiles. If the design is more complex or has several levels, they are calculated separately and added to the main part.

Gypsum board for false ceiling

This material is available in 3 types: ordinary, refractory and moisture resistant. For a room in which there is no high humidity, you can use normal view drywall. You should not take drywall for a false ceiling with a thickness of more than 8-10 mm. A large thickness will only increase the weight of the entire structure, while it will not bring any benefit. Also, the installation of a false ceiling from plasterboard of large thickness will become more complicated, due to the large weight. The calculation of the false ceiling, namely the required number of sheets, can be done using the formula. To do this, the total area of ​​​​the ceiling must be divided by the area of ​​\u200b\u200bone drywall sheet, as a result, the required number of sheets will be obtained. As an example, we use the previous dimensions of the room. Square standard sheet drywall is approximately 3 square meters. For a room of 20 sq.m, you will need 7 sheets. For reinsurance, it is better to take 1 sheet more.

False ceiling mount

For a room with an area of ​​20 sq.m, and a ceiling structure of one level, you need to purchase 40-50 pieces of direct suspension. This fastener is relatively inexpensive, so the exact amount can not be calculated. If the false ceiling involves several levels, and the drywall sheets will be thick, it is better to buy more hangers, this will provide greater reliability. If the design involves several curly levels, then the suspensions can be calculated independently, given the step between them of 600-700 mm. You may also need connecting elements - crabs, or replace them with a connection of direct suspensions. To attach the guide profile to the wall, use 8x10 dowels. Self-tapping screws are used to connect the profiles to each other. They will need a sufficient number. For fixing drywall sheets to profile frame you need to use self-tapping screws 25 mm long, they also need a lot.

Plasterboard suspended ceiling installation

After preparing and acquiring all the necessary materials and tools, you can get to work. The first thing you need to start with is markup. In order to correctly mark the location of the guide profile, it is necessary to use a water level. In order to install in a suspended ceiling Spotlights, or fix a layer of thermal insulation, it is necessary to step back at least 10 cm from the ceiling. After that, with a hydraulic level on opposite walls, one level of water is achieved, and marks are made. This procedure is carried out on all walls and corners.

Installation of the false ceiling frame begins with a guide profile. After the basting is ready, it is necessary to make holes for the dowels with a puncher. Attach the guide profile to the wall with dowels at intervals of 30-40 cm, in the corners reduce the interval to 10-15 cm.

When the guide profile is installed around the entire perimeter of the room, it is necessary to make markings with an interval of 60 cm using a tape measure. This marking is necessary for the exact location of the ceiling profile. If the ceiling is on the same level, the ceiling profile is mounted in one direction, so markings are needed on two opposite walls. If the ceiling design is more complex, and it is necessary to make a grid from the ceiling profile, then markings must be done on each wall.

When all the markings are applied, you can proceed to fixing the direct suspension to the ceiling. The interval between suspensions should be 60-70 cm. A deviation of a couple of centimeters does not play any role. When all the suspensions are installed, you can proceed with the installation of the frame for the false ceiling. For this, the main part is installed - the ceiling profile. It is fixed along the entire length with direct suspensions and at the junctions with the guide profile.

In our example, a ceiling profile 4 meters long is used, with the same width of the room. This allowed one profile to be used. If the length of the metal profile is not enough, two profiles can be used. For such a case, the joints must be reinforced with additional fasteners from direct suspensions. All other fastening must be done as in the case of a solid profile.

It is very important to control the level of the ceiling profile. It must be checked with a two meter level throughout the process of connecting with direct hangers. If this indicator is not controlled after the end of work, and the installation of drywall sheets, the surface will have a wavy nature. The false ceiling frame must be leveled in different directions, and in different places. If there are irregularities, they must be corrected immediately. When the frame of the metal profile is ready, it is necessary to carry out electrical wiring for future lamps, if it is necessary to insulate the ceiling, a heater is fixed between the profiles. And so the frame is ready for the start of the next stage, to fix the drywall sheets.

Sheathing the frame with plasterboard and putty work

After the frame is ready, you can proceed with the installation of drywall sheets. The process itself is quite simple, you need to lift the sheets and fix them with self-tapping screws. The interval between fasteners should be 10-15 cm. It is worth paying attention to a whole sheet of drywall, they have beveled edges, this is necessary for the puttying process. Thus, there will be more putty at the joints, and this will prevent the appearance of cracks. If pieces are used during puttying, the edges must be cut off a little. The entire ceiling is "sewn up" with plasterboard sheets.

When installing drywall, pay attention to the heads of the screws. In the process of fastening, they must be deepened into drywall by 1 mm. If the self-tapping screws protrude above the surface, this will interfere with puttying. After fixing all the drywall, you need to cut holes for the fixtures. To do this, it is better to use a special nozzle for a drill or puncher.

Ways to decorate a suspended ceiling

Today, there are many ways that will allow. The very first way is to use different colors, especially it looks advantageous on ceilings with different levels. Also, the ceiling can be decorated with polyurethane or foam baguettes. How and with what to decorate the ceiling depends only on personal preferences and tastes, since it is you who live under this ceiling. Therefore, the ceiling must meet all the requirements of the residents of this house or apartment.

So, the conclusion of this article: you can make a false ceiling with plasterboard yourself. The main thing is to carefully markup, and check the level of all planes. And the result will be a smooth ceiling with a good finish.

Video: do-it-yourself drywall ceiling

traditional hanging material ceiling structures- drywall. This ceiling can hide all communications in the interceiling space. You can make a regular, single-level ceiling, or you can complicate its design by making the ceiling a room zonator.

The first step in great job there will be a plan that specifies and Consumables, a drawing is required (especially if the ceiling is complex), in the case of a curly ceiling, you may have to make templates.

The work will proceed according to the following plan:

• Training;
• Installation of a metal frame;
• Ceiling decoration;
• Puttying the ceiling surface;
• Finishing;
• Installation of lighting fixtures.

Each of the steps can be done independently. The manufacture of such a ceiling is not the easiest idea, but it will allow not only to qualitatively level the surface, but also to create a ceiling decor - original and aesthetic.

Ceiling frame device

First you must mark the ceiling horizontal plane. Usually, they use a laser or water level. It is difficult to do this alone, it is better to enlist the help of a partner.

What should be done:

• Applying the level, mark the perimeter of the wall. The minimum you can lower the ceiling to is 3 cm, and if you are going to make recessed fixtures, then their size will be a reference for the height of lowering the ceiling.
• Connect the marks together. Make it just a paint coloring thread. Mark the ceiling surface in order to install straight hangers and CD-60 support profiles.
• After marking is completed, the guide profile is fixed. It must be installed not on the walls around the perimeter of the room with a focus on markings. You need to fasten the profile with dowels, the interval is from 300 to 450 mm.
• According to the ceiling markings with an interval of 600 mm, direct suspensions must be attached with self-tapping screws and dowels. At an angle of 90 degrees, lower their ends in the form of the letter P. With 12-mm self-tapping screws with a drill, the carrier profiles are fixed to the U-shaped hangers.

If necessary, the profiles are joined with a direct connector, which, by the way, can be made from a carrier profile. TO bearing profile crabs are attached at intervals of 600 mm. To do this, use the sections of the UD-27 profile. Connect them between the crabs and the guides with 12mm self-tapping screws.

Do-it-yourself plasterboard ceiling sheathing: step by step instructions

The frame is ready, but this does not mean that the plasterboard can already be fixed.

The work goes like this:

• Lay the wiring in corrugated plastic pipes, fasten with clamps to the floor slabs. According to the plan for the placement of fixtures, release the loops of wires at the points of connection of lighting equipment.
• Then you can already sheathe the frame. Start fastening with a single sheet. Self-tapping pitch - 200 mm. Lay the first row correctly, the second is mounted on the ceilings with an offset. Be sure the joints of the first row will be covered with plates of the second row by at least a transverse profile (one).
• Mount the gypsum board so that the walls have a five-millimeter gap. It serves as a kind of compensation for moisture and temperature expansion of the material. If you don't do this, plaster ceiling runs the risk of cracking.

Installation of a single-level plasterboard ceiling (video)

The final stage of installing a plasterboard ceiling

The work is not yet completed, but perhaps the easiest and most enjoyable stage is ahead. It is necessary to putty the ceiling and seal the seams. To do this, carefully treat the seams with a primer, wait for the primer to dry. Do not tear the cardboard off the sheets!

The usual putty for sealing the seams is not used, you need a very strong one, there are such in the Knauf line.

• Spread the putty according to the instructions, first of all, seal all the seams near the wall, then grab the joints. Do not forget about the hats of the screws.
• To seal a factory seam, first fill it with compound, and then with a wide spatula, align the recess along the edge of the sheet.
• After the putty has dried, glue the sickle on the seams. At intersections, it must be glued with an overlap. A little more spread the putties and putty on the sickle, as well as small defects that remain. Puttying is easier with an angled trowel.
• Enhances the effect of protection against cracks fiberglass gossamer. Even if some protrusions remain after sealing the seams, further finishing will correct them.
• After that, the seam treated with putty is overwritten (the method of fine grouting is used). Get a smooth, even surface.
• After grouting, let the drywall dry, and then prime the seams again. Then a finishing putty layer with a fine-grained structure is applied, usually white putty is taken.

Do not forget that the work is carried out at closed windows and window vents, there should be no drafts. Otherwise, the finish may lead, and cracks cannot be avoided with such a disturbed mode of operation.

Finishing putty is not carried out if you are going to paste over the ceiling with wallpaper or other decorative options (glossy coating). You just need to putty the joints, and level the surface after the seams.

Puttying drywall seams (video)

Such a "sandwich" made of cardboard and gypsum as a plasterboard in almost any home can become a future beautiful and original ceiling. Peep ideas in the photo gallery, make sketches, outline a plan, and independently installed ceiling become your pride.

The most widespread today are ceilings that do not require much preparation for work during finishing, such as several layers of plaster or putty for leveling. One of these types of finishes is a plasterboard ceiling. Therefore, we consider the installation of a plasterboard ceiling with our own hands.

• Thanks to this method, time and money spent on repairs are significantly saved.
• Provides an additional level of sound insulation.
• Electrical wiring and other communications can be hidden under drywall sheets, while appearance rooms are greatly improved.

How to make a plasterboard ceiling?

The first thing that will need to be done will be the purchase of the main material, consumables and the right tools if you don't have them at home.

There are two ways to mount plasterboard ceilings with your own hands: glue sheets of material or fasten them with metal profiles. The first method is only suitable for a perfectly flat, pre-prepared surface. In this case, the horizontality of the ceiling must be carefully verified, and gluing occurs in small stripes. Therefore, unlike walls, mounting drywall to the ceiling using profiles is much easier than gluing it.

The choice of material for mounting a plasterboard ceiling with your own hands

Unlike the popular belief that drywall cannot be used in a bathroom or bathroom, it can still be used in these rooms subject to certain rules. Depending on the room in which we will mount the ceiling, we choose ordinary material or moisture resistant. The thickness of the sheets can be 8, 9.5 mm or 12.5 mm, but it is preferable to choose a thinner material, since it will not experience a large load, but the main weight of the structure will significantly decrease.

In addition, you will need metal profiles of different sizes:

• Guides PN/UD 27-28.
• Basic PP / CD 60x27.
• Suspension straight.
• "Crab" or single-level connector corresponding to the size of the ceiling profile.
• Self-tapping screws for fastening profiles.
• Additional consumables such as putty, serpentine tape or masking mesh, primer and sandpaper.

Tools required for installation:

• Perforator and screwdriver, for fastening profiles and the material itself. In extreme cases, an electric drill with different regimes work and reverse.
• Metal shears for profile cutting. With due skill, you can use the grinder.
• Fine-toothed hacksaw or knife for cutting drywall.
• Level, pencil or chopping cord for marking.
• Spatula, brush and roller for finishing the ceiling.

Plasterboard ceiling: step by step instructions

Before starting the main work, we carry out a complete inspection of the condition of the top coating. If there are large cracks or defects, we eliminate them by plastering the surface. If the ceiling crumbles or there are doubts about the strength of the top coating, we clean off all the excess and treat the surface with a primer in 2-3 layers. This will strengthen the base and get rid of most of the dust.

Surface marking.

The markup cannot be missed for any type of finish; the final appearance of the repair depends on it. Therefore, the first step in the instructions for the plasterboard ceiling , there will be just a markup for the frame, on which sheets of material will subsequently be attached.

Most convenient option mark with a laser level. We find the lowest point of the ceiling, retreat an additional 25 mm (this minimum thickness profile) and mark a point on the wall, which we later transfer to the rest of the vertical surfaces. In the absence of a laser level, you can do this procedure using the usual one, you just have to more carefully check the compliance of each mark.

If you plan to hide any communications, the indent from the lowest point may be more. If the ceiling will hide not only electrical wiring, but also water pipes and other communications, then the inter-ceiling space should be at least 5 cm. It is also necessary to take into account the height of recessed fixtures, if they are planned. But do not forget that in this case the top coating will fall on the inter-ceiling space, so do not get carried away.

We draw a connecting line along the marks with a pencil or a chopping cord, along which we fasten the guides. To do this, using a perforator, we drill holes for dowels in increments of 35-40 cm, along which we fasten the PN / UD metal profile.

Now you need to mark the ceiling itself for suspensions. As a rule, sheets are attached along the length of the room, and two conditions must be met. Firstly, for reliability, the joint of the sheets should fall on the profile and one more should pass in the middle of the sheet. Since the standard sheet width is 120 cm, it means that the gap between the profiles should be 60 cm. The second condition: the sheets are mounted in a checkerboard pattern, this will subsequently eliminate the appearance of cracks and deformations.

Based on the foregoing, it is necessary to draw several parallel lines along the ceiling along with an interval of 60 cm. We fasten the suspensions along the lines in increments of 40-60 cm.

The next step is the installation of ceiling profiles. The length of the profiles corresponds to the width of the room minus 5 mm, so it will be easier to install them in the rails. Before mounting, pull a thin cord or nylon thread from the bottom of the frame along the line drawn along the ceiling. Now, when the profile will sag under its weight during installation, you will easily notice this by the deflection of the cord, and you can adjust the level. We insert the profiles and fasten them with screws to the suspensions, not forgetting to monitor the horizontal level. The protruding ends of the suspensions are cut off or bent to the ceiling.

As an additional strengthening and increase in the rigidity of the frame, transverse profiles are installed using crabs. The ceiling profile is cut into a length of 60 cm and fastened taking into account the staggered fastening of the sheets.

We make a suspended ceiling from plasterboard.

If the frame was created in compliance with all the rules and according to the exact markup, then mounting is not particularly difficult. The only point is that it is simply impossible for a beginner to do this work alone, it will take at least two, and preferably three pairs of hands. Two will hold the sheet, and the third will attach it to the frame.

There is an option to do this work alone, but for this it is necessary to cut the drywall into small canvases, which will increase the laboriousness of fixing it. In addition, in this case, you will have to more carefully fit the sheets to the frame, and subsequently carry out more work on finishing. Therefore, it is much easier to invite two assistants.

The procedure for installing a suspended plasterboard ceiling

First of all, we fasten solid webs of material, observing the following conditions:

• The joints of the sheets should fall on the metal profile.
• The fastening should be no closer than 1.5-2.0 from the edge of the canvas.
• We fasten with TB or TN self-tapping screws in increments of 10-15 cm.
• The self-tapping screw must be sunk into the body of the material by about 0.5 mm.

Generally, only use solid sheets it doesn’t work, so the uncovered sections of the frame will have to be sheathed with pre-cut pieces.

Cut out pieces of fabric required dimensions, while taking into account that a gap of 3-4 mm should remain near each wall. Fiber cutting can be done either with a special hacksaw or a knife. If a knife is used, the following rules must be observed when cutting:

• After marking the sheet, the top layer is cut exactly along the line.
• We break the sheet with the help of a bar or profile placed under the canvas.
• Cut through the bottom layer of cardboard.
• We process the edge with a special planer.

We put the cut sheet in the provided place and fasten it to the profiles. Such pieces are much lighter, so they can be fastened in increments of 20 cm for the long side and 30 cm for the short side, while observing the other conditions. When attaching the sheets, we observe a tight alignment of the joints and compliance with the dimensions.

This is a direct process: how to make a drywall ceiling. But there are many more nuances during installation, here are some of them:

• If it is planned to install recessed fixtures in the ceiling, then the wiring laid in corrugated pipe, must be carried out before mounting the web, while leaving loops of wire for subsequent connection. Subsequently, holes are drilled under the lamps using a special nozzle on a drill.
• When attaching the frame to the walls and ceiling, glue a sealing tape on the back of the profile, this will provide additional sound insulation.
• If you plan to install multi-level plasterboard ceilings, the first level must be given additional rigidity with the help of additional transverse profiles. It is especially necessary to strengthen the first layer of the ceiling in places where the second level will be attached.
• If necessary additional sound insulation, it is made of mineral wool, cut into sizes slightly larger than the cells from the profile, and laid in them.

Finishing the plasterboard ceiling after installation.

The final finishing of the ceiling is carried out according to the same rules that apply to any work using drywall.

Initially primed with several layers. Before filling, the seams between the sheets are embroidered.

A putty is applied at the joints of the sheets, on which, without waiting for it to dry, a sickle tape is laid. This will prevent future cracks at the seams. We wait for the complete drying of the putty and apply another leveling layer. We prime and, depending on the finish, apply one or more layers, grind and carry out other necessary procedures.

A few more tips that will come in handy when installing drywall.

• If you do not know which material to choose for installation, use the material of well-known companies, the most common brand of high quality drywall is Knauf. It is available in both regular and waterproof versions. In addition, one of the latest developments of this company is the production of sheets with specially processed edges, which do not need to be additionally reinforced with sickle tape when using putty of the same brand.
• Plain drywall gray color, moisture resistant has a greenish tint.
• When calculating the required material, add 5% of the total volume just in case, for example, for measurement inaccuracy or simply damage.
• If you use a regular building level when marking, its length should be 2.0-2.5 cm.
• Level marks are best done with a driven carnation or self-tapping screw, on which a nylon thread or lace is attached.
• If possible, lower the ceiling level by 10 cm, this will allow you to easily hide the electrical wiring and all communications, and also provide additional ventilation to the room.
• Usually, 6 mm self-tapping screws are used for installation, in this case, take 5 mm dowels, this will ensure a stronger connection.
• When attaching guides to wooden ceiling it is better to use self-tapping screws with a larger thread without dowels.
• To seal the gaps between the wall and the ceiling, we use acrylic putty.
• During puttying, it is not necessary to use sickle tape or reinforcing mesh, now many companies involved in building materials offer docking putty.
• Don't forget to let each coat of putty dry.

If you follow these simple rules and follow the instructions for installing a plasterboard ceiling, even a novice in construction can carry out such repairs, while getting a really high-quality result. V Lately drywall has become very popular. Especially creation. Also, or is often used in the interior.

The snow-white ceiling always looks stylish and harmonious, combined with any design decoration rooms. However, the monotony in the decoration of the upper part of the apartment begins to depress over time - you want something new, unusual, which neighbors and friends do not have. Modern materials and technology can solve this problem, gradually pushing whitewashing and painting into the background.

Master finishers offer various methods for finishing the ceiling space. The following types of ceiling are most in demand:

Stretch- the most common technology for decorating the ceiling space. Its essence is to mount on plastic or aluminum profiles synthetic fabric (polyester) or polyvinyl chloride (PVC) film. Wherein tension material it is desirable to have without seams. It is made to order after measuring the ceiling. So independent work according to this method of designing the upper part of the room is difficult;

Suspension. The technological process is somewhat similar to the previous ceiling design method. The difference in the rigidity of the frame (metal profiles are used if the ceiling is concrete, wooden beam with wooden floors or, as in attics, roof systems) and the type of material for ceiling sheathing - plasterboard, wood, metal, plastic, fiberglass or mineral fiber boards are fixed. Despite the complexity of the technology, such work can be done independently;

Rack. The surface of the ceiling is mounted from aluminum or steel plates treated with several layers of varnish. It is installed, as a rule, in unheated rooms (frost-resistant) or in rooms with high humidity (kitchen, bathroom);

Mirror. This type of ceiling space decoration is similar in design to a false ceiling. The only difference is that mirror plates are used instead of GKL. They visually change the volume of the room, doubling the height of the ceiling. This design of the upper part of the rooms was in vogue 30-40 years ago. Currently, it is very difficult to meet a mirror ceiling;

Hemming. This is a simplified version of a false ceiling. The ceiling surface of this design is also formed from rigid sheets. However, they are not mounted on a suspended structure, but on a wooden or metal frame fixed directly on the floor slabs. Such ceilings do not have the ability to make hidden wiring of various communications and use built-in LED lights;

Adhesive- the simplest and most budget option for finishing the ceiling space. There is nothing complicated here - the technological process is even more understandable for a novice finisher than whitewashing or painting.

The essence of the method is gluing square panels of polystyrene (another name is styrofoam) 50x50 cm in size to the ceiling surface. The tile can be smooth or embossed, painted in one color or imitating wood, granite or plaster, simply painted or with a laminated protective film and etc.;

plastered. According to this technology, the ceiling is primed, puttied, and then covered with decorative plaster. Of the advantages of such a ceiling, it should be noted its durability and low cost, minus two: high labor intensity and standard view painted ceiling with simple painting;

Raster or cassette. It is assembled from small rectangles measuring 60x10, 120x60 cm, which professional builders called cassettes (plates). They are made of glass or pressed mineral wool. Mounted to the ceiling with special frames. Cassettes have varied design, which allows you to implement the most unusual ideas for interior design in any room of the apartment (house).

Plasterboard false ceiling

In the decoration of ceilings, there is a growing tendency to reduce the cost of repairs and labor intensity while obtaining the maximum possible aesthetic effect. Most beautiful decoration ceiling space is obtained by using suspended structures with sewn drywall. This technological solution for finishing the ceiling allows you to:

• hide the problems of the ceiling (skew, cracks, chips, visible joint, etc.);
• hide various kinds of wiring and cables;
• do not level, prime or putty the base of the ceiling, which allows you to save on labor and materials when carrying out these operations.

Plasterboard ceiling is a rigid structure made of metal frame in the form of a lattice attached to the ceiling with suspensions, and on the walls - to a metal profile. Facing sheets, mainly drywall, are attached to the assembled grate with self-tapping screws.

Advantages and disadvantages of using drywall

GKL suspended ceilings have many advantages:

• long service life - 20-30 years;
• high strength - does not collapse when pressed or scratched;
• working with drywall does not require special tools and skills;
• installation of the frame is within the power of any novice builder;
• good heat and noise insulation with the possibility of improving these characteristics with the help of a heater;
• does not require special care - sometimes it is enough to walk with a vacuum cleaner or a damp cloth;
• the widest possibilities in interior design - drywall can not only be figuratively cut, but also bent curvilinear forms can be obtained after soaking and drying with warm air;
• availability of materials at a price for all categories of the population;
• environmental friendliness - non-toxic, does not pose any threat to allergy sufferers, and therefore it can be installed in any room of an apartment or house (bedroom, children's room, etc.);
• ease of installation of any kind of lighting.

At the same time, this type of ceiling has its drawbacks:

• need constant repainting every 7-8 years of operation;
• steals the height of the room;
• requires finishing processing of gypsum board joints, recesses from hardware, primer and putty for finishing;
• becomes unusable when a small amount of water seeps from above, even when using moisture-resistant sheets;
• collapses with minor errors in the calculations;
• there is no possibility of installation alone - a minimum of 2 people is required.

As can be seen from the above pros and cons, choosing a false ceiling allows you to solve many problems with little difficulty. However, stretch ceilings are more popular with customers. Why is this happening?

Which is better - drywall or stretch ceiling

A comparative analysis of which is better - a stretch ceiling or drywall for decorating the ceiling space, shows:

• The service life of PVC film and drywall is different: film manufacturers in the passport indicate a 10-year service life (actually it will last about 15 years), and GKL can not be changed for 20-30 years - it is enough to repaint regularly;
• In terms of heat and sound insulation, both types of ceiling are approximately equal;

Important: if necessary, improve sound insulation or insulate the ceiling, mineral wool can only be used for false ceilings.

• In terms of strength, the false ceiling has an advantage - it does not collapse from the slightest touch of a sharp object or a concentrated impact of small force, unlike PVC film;
• In terms of elasticity, drywall and stretch ceiling parity is surprising, but the film can withstand loads up to 100 kg / m 2, which is clearly manifested during the flooding of the apartment by neighbors from above. In the experiment, a PVC ceiling with an area of ​​6 m 2 withstood 500 liters of water, and only after 2 hours small trickles of water began to appear due to the delamination of the film;
• Bring it to life as far as possible design ideas stretch ceiling gives a significant head start to the suspended structure, especially in terms of texture and color scheme.

When comparing the cost of installation, a stretch ceiling also has a significant advantage. If we compare prices in St. Petersburg, then for 1 m 2 of drywall installation, you will have to pay 2,500-3,000 rubles. per full cycle works, and for a stretch ceiling, prices start at 700 rubles.

When performing work on the plasterboard ceiling on your own, the costs will decrease and will amount to 700-800 rubles / m 2 (the price also includes transportation costs for the delivery of material in the amount of 200 rubles / m 2, this figure can change in any direction, but slightly).

The speed of work must also be taken into account. The stretch ceiling is installed in a day, it will not be possible to mount a suspended ceiling in these terms.

Conclusion: in some respects, a stretch ceiling has a significant advantage. But if the issue is considered in the long term, professionals advise installing a false ceiling - it is cheaper and there are no problems with the next repair.

Where can plasterboard ceilings be installed

Installing a false ceiling steals 5-10 cm of its height in the room (an increase in the distance between the floor slabs and the hemmed plasterboard is always caused by the installation of hidden fixtures). Therefore, in "Khrushchev", with their small size both in area and in height (2.5-2.6 m), false ceiling drywall mounting is not recommended.

Based on the sanitary and technical requirements for the size of the living space and the design approach to interior design, it is considered optimal to install drywall on the ceiling at a height of 2.7 m, two-level at an apartment height of 3.0 m and multi-level at very high, 3.3 m and more, premises.

Materials and tools

It is considered an axiom that before starting work, you should buy the necessary materials and assemble a set of tools. In this case, an exception applies. The exact number of profiles, connecting elements, fasteners and drywall sheets can only be found out by completing part preparatory work which, in turn, require appropriate tools.

In order not to break the section of the article into several parts, let's run a little ahead and consider the purchase of materials before the calculations, but relying on them, i.e. about the fifth stage of the preparatory work, we will tell before they begin.

In order to have an idea of ​​the cost of repairs, for those who perform the installation of a false ceiling on their own, we will summarize the costs of purchasing materials and a set of tools in tables.

Materials.

Attention: in some retail chains, the “crab” mount is marked with a suspension, which does not correspond to its function.

In this way, total costs amount to 13,895 rubles. The cost of finishing 1 m 2 of the ceiling is 655 rubles. This is just for materials.

You will need to spend part of the family budget to buy or rent necessary tool. Here, too, the numbers are not small.

Tools.

Preparatory work

How to make a plasterboard ceiling yourself? The technology is not complicated. Consists of preparatory work, frame assembly, installation of plasterboard and surface finishing. Installation of a suspended ceiling begins with preparatory work. They include 5 stages:

1. preparation of the premises;
2. drafting a project;
3. calculation of the amount of material;
4. marking the ceiling and walls;
5. purchase of materials.

Attention: on many sites that consider how to fix drywall to the ceiling, gross errors of various kinds are made. Leading portals are no exception. Therefore, before starting work, we recommend that you study several articles on the topic, critically digesting the posted information. Examples of inaccuracies:

• they offer to mount drywall only on longitudinal CD-profiles, which are also fixed parallel to the window (see photo);

• incorrectly indicate the step between the CD ceiling profile (50 and 70 cm);
• it is recommended to retreat from the wall by 10 cm for the first line of the frame;
• hangers are placed at the intersection of profiles, etc.

Room preparation

In a new building, all the preparation of the premises for the installation of the ceiling comes down to cleaning it from debris. In a lived-in apartment, you must:

1. Remove all furniture from the room to provide unhindered access to any point on the ceiling;
2. If it is impossible to complete the first paragraph, close the chairs, sofa or wardrobe plastic wrap from dust generated when drilling the ceiling and walls under the dowels. At the same time, you need to be prepared for the repeated movement of pieces of furniture from place to place, in order to gain access to the entire ceiling space, and for cleaning chairs and sofas, because dust tends to sneak under the film, finding the smallest holes;
3. Clean the ceiling from loose paint, traces of mold (fungus), soot.

Drafting a project

To perform design work, you will need a tape measure, a simple pencil ( ball pen) and a double notebook sheet, in a box. All work is done in several steps.

1. The length of each wall is measured with a tape measure, excluding ledges and niches. If they are in the room, the perimeter of the walls is additionally measured. The first dimension is needed to calculate the number of lines of the ceiling profile, the second, the perimeter, to determine the length of the guide profile.

2. The resulting dimensions on a certain scale are applied to the notebook sheet. The result should be a drawing of the ceiling.

3. A scheme for the passage of the frame is being developed, as well as places for attaching suspensions. The following points are important here:

• Longitudinal profiles can be fastened in increments of 40 or 60 cm, due to the weight of the drywall. The larger it is, the more often profiles should be installed. Builders adhere to the following recommendation: for plasterboards up to 9.5 mm thick, inclusive, a step of 60 cm, for thicker, naturally, and heavier ones, - 40 cm. Why these values? These figures are multiples of the standard drywall sheet width of 120 cm.
• Transverse profiles are attached only in increments of 50 cm (not 60 and 70 cm, as indicated in many materials), which is a multiple of the length of the gypsum sheet;
• With a distance between the longitudinal profiles of 40 cm, only they are attached to the ceiling suspensions, and “crabs” are enough for the transverse profile. At a step of 60 cm, transverse profiles should also be attached to the ceiling.

4. The marking of the passage of electrical wiring and the place of attachment of lamps is carried out.

The result should be a drawing similar to the picture in the photo below.

Material Quantity Calculation

To illustrate the methodology for calculating materials, let's take the real dimensions of the room, and not the simplified ones: 5.6 m long, 3.8 m wide, while the length of one of the walls is 5.9 m due to a ledge of 15 cm.

1. We determine the footage of the guide bars (PN), size 28 × 27 mm - they are attached to the walls under the ceiling, serve as a support for the frame:

• We calculate the perimeter of the walls: 5.6 + 5.9 + 3.8 x 2 = 19.1 m.
• We find the number of PS profiles: 19.1 m / 3 m = 6.36 pieces, where 19.1 m is the perimeter of the walls; 3 m - profile length; 6.36 pcs. - the number of strips required for mounting the ceiling. Since this quantity is not for sale, you will have to purchase 7 pieces.

2. We calculate the number of ceiling profiles (PS) with a section of 60 × 27 mm - a lattice for mounting the GKL is assembled from it. To do this, we determine the number of longitudinal and transverse rows. Since it is planned to install GKL with a thickness of 6.5 mm, the pitch for longitudinal profiles will be 60 cm, transverse - 50 cm.

Attention, very important: the construction industry does not stand still and is constantly eliminating problem areas. Suspended ceilings constantly faced the fact that vibration violated the integrity of the drywall joints: they were covered with a network of cracks. Therefore, experienced GKL builders glued wallpaper or applied decorative plaster. Today, the seams are sealed with fiberglass mesh, which eliminates the problem.

We will calculate according to the formula: K \u003d P / L - 1, where:

• K is the number of profile lines;
• P is the length of the room;
• L - step size (0.6 m).

Substitute the numerical values ​​in the formula and get the amount:

• Longitudinal rows: 3.6 / 0.6 - 1 = 5;
• Transverse: 5.8 / 0.5 - 1 = 10.6. As a result of rounding up, we get 11 rows.

The total length of the ceiling profile will be 68.6 m (5.8 x 5 + 3.6 x 11). On sale you can find a ceiling profile with a length of 2.5 m to 4 m. In our case, the most best option- 3 m. Then you have to buy 23 strips (68.6 / 3).

3. Room length more length profile, so they will have to be increased. In our example, the connection longitudinal parts frame will occur in the crab, since the step of the transverse profiles is a multiple of the length of the bar.

4. The number of "crabs" is equal to the number of intersections of the longitudinal and transverse profiles - 55 (5 x 11).

S = (D + 1) x N + (N + 1) x D, where:

• S is the number of direct suspensions;
• D is the number of rows of longitudinal profiles;
• N is the number of rows of transverse profiles.

Substituting specific numbers into the formula, we get that for work you need to buy 126 suspensions ((5 + 1) x 11 + (11 + 1) x 5).

6. Self-tapping dowel 6 × 60 mm (8 × 80 mm) for installing guide profiles and mounting hangers. They are screwed into the wall every 30 cm, 2 pieces are needed for mounting 1 suspension. A total of 266 pieces are needed.

7. Screw self-tapping "bug" LN 11 (3.9 x 11), for connecting the profiles to each other on the wall - 2 pcs., with a crab - 4 pcs., with a suspension - 2 pcs. You will need 3 packs of 200 pcs.

8. Self-tapping screws for fixing drywall 3.5x25 mm. They GKL are attached to the crate. You will need 1 pack of 1,000 pcs.

9. Drywall must be purchased 3 m long in order not to make inserts (with a GKL length of 2.5 m, you will have to cut a piece 0.8 cm long in addition to 2 whole sheets). In total, 6 sheets are required ((3.6 x 5.8) / (1.2 x 3)), where the first 2 digits are the dimensions of the room, the second are the length and width of the sheet.

Ceiling and wall markings

In a new building, with the help of a hydro or laser level, the horizon line is beaten off. Then, after numerous measurements, the lowest point of the ceiling is found. A minimum of 5 cm down is measured from it (when installing recessed fixtures - 10 cm) and a ceiling line is formed. For those who are faced with such concepts and methods for finding the ceiling line for the first time, we recommend that you view the article "". Here everything is one to one, only upside down.

In an apartment with a laid floor, there is no need to beat off the horizon line - the floor will successfully fulfill its role. After finding the key point (the lowest part of the ceiling space minus 5 cm), using a hydro level (laser level), a line is drawn on the wall along which the ceiling will be mounted.

On it, every 60 cm, starting from the wall, marks are placed for the passage of longitudinal ceiling profiles. A similar operation is carried out on the opposite wall. Using a plumb line, a metal ruler (rule) and a pencil, vertical lines are drawn from the marks to the ceiling, after which a mark is beaten off along the ceiling with a construction cord (twine smeared with colored chalk), along which the profile will pass. If everything is done correctly, a series of lines parallel to each other and adjacent walls is obtained.

Attention: longitudinal profiles must be perpendicular to the window, regardless of the size of the room. Therefore, initially the markup is placed on the wall with a window, then on the opposite side.

A similar operation is carried out with another pair of walls, but with a step of 50 cm. The attachment points of the plumb lines are marked at a distance of 30 cm from the wall and 60 cm between each other for longitudinal profiles and 25 cm from the wall with a step of 50 cm. This can be explained even more simply as follows : hangers are attached in the middle of each side of the rectangle formed by the profiles (see diagram).

Purchase of materials

This subsection is discussed above, in the "Materials and Tools" section.

Frame assembly

Work on the installation of a plasterboard ceiling begins with the installation of a supporting frame. Let's take a look at how to assemble it step by step.

Step 1. Holes are drilled along the perimeter of the walls for attaching the guide profile. To do this, the guide is pressed tightly against the adjacent wall, while its lower edge must go strictly along the applied ceiling line. Marks for mounting dowels are drilled through the metal in the wall.

The first hole should be located 10 cm from the edge of the wall, the next - every 30 cm. There are recommendations to place dowels every 50-70 cm, but this reduces the rigidity of the structure.

Step 2 Holes are drilled at the marks, dowels are driven into them. A damper (sealing) tape is glued to the back of the profile to prevent sound waves from entering the wall to the ceiling, after which the guide is tightly attached to the wall.

To avoid possible deflection of the ceiling at the junction of two rails, experienced builders are advised to reinforce the joints. To do this, inside the profiles, at the junction, a plate made of tin, plastic or plywood is inserted and fastened with at least 2 self-tapping screws. Thus, the UD (PN) profile is installed around the entire perimeter of the room.

Important: The vast majority of authors recommend installing guides only for longitudinal CD profiles, which is fundamentally wrong. With such a frame arrangement, large parts of the GKL corners adjacent to the wall remain completely loose. The result appears within a couple of months, when the sealed joints are torn and one of the sheets sags by 1-2 millimeters.

Step 3 Direct suspensions are installed on the ceiling, across the applied line. In this case, it is necessary to strive to ensure that the line is strictly in the middle of the fastener. You can fix them with self-tapping dowels (2 pieces for each suspension) or anchor bolts, which is more reliable. After fixing the suspensions, their mustaches, with hands or pliers, are bent down at a right angle.

Step 4 With the help of a fishing line or nylon thread, a ceiling plane is formed. Such an operation is needed to control the level of the ceiling in the center of the room - under its own weight, the frame tends to bend down. The thread (fishing line) is pulled along each line of the longitudinal profile. To prevent the thread from sagging, it is additionally fixed on the mustache of suspensions (2-3 are enough), bent up at the desired height.

Step 5 Mounted longitudinal ceiling profiles. First, the PS-profile is inserted into the groove of the PN-profile at the place of the mark and fastened to the guide bar with “bug” screws. Then, sequentially, it is fixed in suspensions. The horizontal is controlled by a stretched fishing line and a level. The protruding mustaches of the suspensions are bent to the side.

Step 6 At the intersections of the frame to the longitudinal profile, the “crab” fastening is screwed with “bug” screws - one screw on each side.

Step 7 The transverse profiles are attached, with the ends in the "crab", in the middle with a suspension.

Heat and sound insulation

If from above noisy neighbors or the last floor, the ceiling can be insulated with mineral wool, which also absorbs sounds well. Inside the frame, it is fastened with the so-called "fungus" - a special fastening system.

Drywall installation

To mount a plasterboard ceiling with your own hands, step-by-step instruction is given below:

• Drywall is brought into the room where it will be installed and left for 2-3 days. This will allow the GCR to adapt to new conditions and take a geometric shape for a specific temperature and humidity. Stored only in a horizontal position;
• GCR is cut to size: the sheets are shortened, a notch is cut out for the ledge;

Important: in our example, for odd rows of drywall, only the last sheet is trimmed. In even rows, always the first sheet is shortened by 50 cm, and then the last sheet is brought to size. This is done so that the seams do not match.

• With a construction knife, at an angle of 45 degrees, a chamfer is removed along the cutting edge;

• The first sheet is applied to the frame so that a technological gap of 1-2 mm remains near the wall - it is necessary for air exchange (ventilation) between the room and the ceiling space. The first self-tapping screw is twisted at a distance of 10 cm from the wall, the next every 20 cm. GKL are attached along each row of profiles, as well as along the edges. It is better to melt the heads of hardware into drywall manually, with a Phillips screwdriver, which will avoid twisting them. Along the edges of the sheet, at the seams, the screws are screwed in “out of order”, not against each other.

Final finishing

After the installation of the false ceiling, the most crucial moment comes: the finishing of the drywall. The appearance of the ceiling space depends on the quality of its implementation. Here it is necessary to highlight the following stages of work:

1. seal connecting seams and traces from the heads of hardware;
2. puttying the entire surface of the ceiling;
3. cutting holes for lamps;
4. painting the ceiling with water-based paint;
5. installation of lamps.

Seam sealing

The joints of the sheets are sealed with reinforcing tape, "sickle". Gypsum putty is rubbed through it into the seams. At this stage, it is also necessary to putty all damage to the sheet and the head of the screws.

Puttying drywall

In many recommendations for finishing drywall, a prerequisite is indicated - applying a primer before puttying. However, under modern putty mixtures (“Vetonit LR +”, “KR”, “JS”, “Osnovit Ekonsilk”, “Plitonit KP”, “Kreps KR”) a primer is not needed. Instructions for GKL putty can be studied in the article "", paragraph 2.5. "Gypsum board putty".

Cutting holes for lights

Using the scheme drawn at the beginning of the ceiling installation, the installation locations of the lamps are marked on the drywall sheets. Holes are drilled with a removable crown for a puncher or electric drill. A crown can be purchased at any hardware store. Its price is 140-350 rubles. The crown contains sets of cutting blades for cutting holes with a diameter of 26, 32, 38, 45, 50, 63 mm.

Painting the ceiling with emulsion

How to make backlight

Without design solutions in terms of light, a suspended ceiling device practically loses its meaning - the same effect from a simply painted ceiling (except for the ability to hide some overlapping defects - in this case, a simple ceiling repair is several times cheaper).

In practice, apply various options backlight:

• Contour - the light is directed from the bottom up, from the first level of the ceiling to the second, around the entire perimeter of the room;
• Directional - streams of light go parallel to the surface of the ceiling. LED lamps are also located around the entire perimeter of the room. They can shine inside the room, or vice versa - from the center to the walls;
• Standard - shades are installed in the GKL, the lamps shine down;
• Curly - all lamps shine in different directions, creating an unusual light effect;
• Point - the most difficult, reminiscent of the night sky, when, along with the usual LED lamps miniature LEDs are mounted, indicating a luminous point on the ceiling.

You can install such lighting yourself, without resorting to the help of an electrician. There is only one difficulty here - to come up with ceiling lighting for a particular room.

How to make multiple levels

In apartments (houses) with high ceilings, it becomes possible to install multi-level suspended ceilings. In this case, the number of interior design solutions tends to infinity. There are no particular difficulties in this design of the ceiling space. The order of work differs little from technological process for installation of one level:

1. plan in advance and draw on paper a layout of levels;
2. transfer the drawing to the walls and ceiling: mark the fixing levels of drywall and load-bearing profiles;
3. mount the frame for the first level;
4. bend the side profile to the selected scheme;
5. install the side frame;
6. mount the frame of the second level;
7. distribute the wiring under the lamps;
8. cut drywall for both levels;
9. attach GKL at both levels;
10. cut and then bend the GKL strip for installation on the side frame;
11. close the box;
12. spend finishing installed ceiling;
13. cut holes for the fixtures, and then paint the ceiling;
14. install lights.

Thus, the installation of a false ceiling is not difficult. The only problem is that you cannot do this work alone.

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