How to fold the log house from the bar: from the first crown to finishing. How to collect a log house from a bar with your own hands? House of Brous Instructions

Hundreds of years, our ancestors built houses from the tree, during which time many new, modern building materials appeared, but people invariably return to natural materials and the best of them, the tree is rightfully considered.

Wooden houses:

warm
reliable
beautiful
durable.

But they have one more important dignity, the wooden house is enough to build enough. Having 3 people able to use a carpentry, plumbing tool, in helpers, in one season you can build a good wooden house, from a profiled or glued bar, and with your own hands.

IMPORTANT: The foundation can lay in advance while warm, and the House of the House itself, when the cold will come.

What is a bar.

The most popular two types of profiled timber is a wooden product, a square or rectangular cross section.

The timber can be even, geometrically correct shape. Or profiled, having a specific profile that allows you to more tightly cut the product in the pairing places.

The glued bar appeared relatively recently, it can be called the product of new, advanced technologies.

Visually, it looks like profiled. But the production technology is more complicated. The glued bar consists of several layers of wood, fastened by special technology. It is more durable, durable, it is easier to work with it.

Important: profiled timber can give shrinkage up to 50 mm per 1m, depending on the dryness of the bar. The glued bar is seated, on average, by 10-15 mm.

Brous thickness ranges from 90 mm to 275 mm.

The most chassis are a cross section:

100 mm 150 mm.
100 mm 200 mm.
150 mm for 200 mm.
180 mm per 200 mm.

At maximum, standard length up to 12m.

Still length

Width of walls

Height of wall

Section of bar

150x150 mm. 180x180 mm. 200х200 mm.

Length of Bruus

5 m. 6 m. 7 m. 8 m. 9 m. 10 m. 11 m. 12 m.

Preparing the project

Build from a bar without a project you will not work.

It is no secret that on the expanses of the CIS, there are many countries, and the level of bureaucracy is almost one. We give a list of the main documents that you need to prepare.

The drawing of the foundation is obligatory, a detailed description with the full layout of the material, composition, depth, etc. As well as detailed data on the soil, composition, quality, groundwater, etc.
The next number, the plan of the structure. You are cooking, relying on the drawing of the foundation, but also with a detailed description.
After you need a package, detailed plan. In it detailed specify partitions, stoves, fireplaces, windows, doors, etc.
Another, really important document, dispersion. Speaking simply, this is a detailed drawing of the walls of the house in the context. By dispersion, you can make an order for the manufacture of a bar, it will be made to you and labeled as a designer. Then just watch the numbers and collect.
Specification of every detail of the house.
Detailed roof drawing, with a detailed description of all the layers.
Final view of the house.

Please note: seriously take off to the description of the timing itself, what kind of wood, which profile, the dryness of the bar, etc. It will save from misunderstanding when ordering.

The package of documents is solid, of course, you may last, although the work and painstaking, but it is quite bye. But - advice, do not waste time. Paper collection may be longer than the construction itself. Trust the professionals, on our site you will be happy to help you and it will cost you much cheaper than amateurness.

Bookmark Fundament

To build houses from a bar, a capital, expensive foundation is not required. These buildings have a relatively low weight.

For construction

Ribbon foundation of small embedding. This type of foundation is laid in the trench and has a maximum depth of 50 cm.
Mixed or tape-columnated foundation. This type is similar to the tape. But in all important nodes, it has a strengthening in the form of concrete pillars.
Columnar. This foundation is based on the pillars connected by concrete or metal painter.
On screw metal stamps or stools screws. Product of modern technologies. Metallic, non-corrosive pile, are screwed into the ground and are connected by painter. The foundation is convenient, even what is easily repaired.
On wooden pilesAt this time, it is rarely applied as a tree, as you do not proceed, in the ground still flies.
On concrete piles. The foundation is excellent, but dear. To drive the concrete pile, you will need special construction equipment.

In order to build from the bar, quite the first 4 options. The instruction presented below, with minor amendments suitable for the first 3 types of foundation.

Tape

Any foundation begins with marking. For marking use ordinary wooden pegs and fishing line. At a distance of 30-40 cm from the designed wall, drive pegs and stretch the fishing line.
The body of the foundation will be denoted by unsupported pegs, but a fishing line.

Important: After stretching the fishing line, the diagonal should be measured. The distance to the diagonals should be strictly the same. Even the slightest discrepancy speaks of the wrong corners, and you will receive an asymmetrical foundation.

We take out the ground to a depth of up to 50 cm. Call the formwork thickness. The bottom of the trench control the level.
Next, we make 2 pillows up to 10 cm each. Sand, plus rubble.
We proceed to mount formwork.
Insert waterproofing, the most budget option is runneroid or thick, technical polyethylene.
Weld or knit reinforced, metal frame.
Fill with concrete, it is better to fulfill the fill at once, comprehensively. Order a mixer, pour the foundation with one side and wait when it freezes.
Remove the formwork, and in its place, plunge the pillow from the rubble.

Mixed foundation

From the previous ribbon, it is distinguished by the presence of reinforcing posts in the corners of the structure and in the most stressful nodes. Therefore, the above-mentioned instructions for pouring poles are added to their own hands.

Drum under each pillar shurta, to a depth to 1m.
We make similar sanding from sand and rubble.
We roll out of the frontier 2-3 layers of the pipe and fix the scotch.
We insert the pipe into the shurt, by mounting the reinforcement frame, 200 mm high above the overall level of the foundation.
Before the main fill, make the post sole. To do this, pour a solution into the pipe and fit the pipe, giving a solution to spread. When the solution will freeze a little, start to fill the entire foundation.

Type of foundation

Poles in this foundation can be done in the previous version, from concrete. So laid out of the brick, in the form of a hand.

Only lay out the tumbel, and insert the reinforcement frame and fill with concrete.

Himself, the cabinets are exhibited in terms of the level and screened on them.

Scarlet can be concrete, then on the pillars, formwork is made in the form of a bath, waterproof, fittings are installed and concrete is poured. Or welded from metal, which is attached to the reinforcement frame of the pillars.

Making the crowns

The crowns are the first row of timber. To build a good house from a bar, take care of the montage of the crowns.

The video in this article clearly shows the installation of anticipation.

We make flooring

At this stage, the basis of the floor should be laid, the draft variant. The final finishing option will be done with the interior.

If you build a relatively small building, bath or garden house. It will be enough for you, to put an extra belt belt around the perimeter, to bore it with the crown and on this belt to mount lags.

But if the house takes a large area, the approach will be somewhat different.

With a large quadrature, to support the floor, you should lay out separate stands, something similar to a separate floor foundation.

Depending on the composition of the soil, the columns lay on the depth to the half-meter.
We make them square 40x40 or 50x50. Bookmark step from 50 to 90 cm.
Layers of about 10 cm fit and tamper sand and crushed stone.
We make a small reinforcement frame, up to 10 cm high, install it and fill with concrete.
Next, we use this foundation and lay out the brick end to the beam level.
Again the waterproofing and mounted beams.
To the beams with self-drawing grab lags.
Between the lag, with the help of a corner, mount the waterproof paneur.
Waterproofing and schoing all the joints.
Top places insulation and cover the draft floor.

We erect the wall

If you did everything right before, you will build the walls from the bar with your own hands, will not be difficult for you.

The profiled bar already has special grooves, they will make it easier.
Corner connection do how you like more, distinguish 3 types of angular connection:

Iniquit
Troubled.
By means of indigenous spike.

Between the bar, be sure to lay the insulation.
Each laid beam control over the level and fix the brazen.
In the area of \u200b\u200bthe windows, leave technological gaps for shrinkage.

IMPORTANT: When in the house you will put the bearing wall or supporting columns under the roof, it is not necessary to hardly mount them to the roof. Grab by self-drawers and enough. When the house starts to sit down and walk you will have to regulate the height of the support. When it goes, fix it finally.

This video will talk about the subtleties of the construction of walls.

We start mounting the roof

The roof is a fairly important stage of construction, but it is possible to mount it.

To begin, run away from the light boards template. On it, you will install rafters.
Next, set the beginning and end of the design on the template.
Between the installed rafters, in the control points, by level, we stretch the strings from the fishing line.
Focusing on strings, controlling the level and template, mount the rest of the rafters.
We feed on top of the crate and under the bottom of the fastener with a stipolor, marching vaporizolation.
Under vaporizolation, between the rafter we put the insulation, we close it by another layer of vaporizolation.
Next, finally fix the lower layer of the crates, it is already possible to mount the cladding of your taste and wallet.
From above the most budget option, is the coating on the top crate of the rubberoid and on top of it slate sheets.

Survived with phenomenon in country areas is a construction building of wooden houses. Because the brusade house is high quality and comfortable. Moreover, it looks pretty gorgeous on the part, you can make sure you see the photo of wooden houses. The construction of such a house can afford not only elite. The ability to work with a chainsaw or electronus makes it possible to build a reliable house from a bar with your own hands.
Bruce House Building Technology
The timber is considered universal building materials, and it is easy enough to operate. The huge demand for the tree is caused by its economy and environmental purity. A simple technology of construction of brusade houses does not foreshadow major time spending. All the nuances of the work should be found in the video lessons and photos, as well as in the articles and the chance to build a house from a bar with their own hands will be provided with even inexperienced builders.
In the construction of the house everything will be done in stages, then the speed and performance of construction is guaranteed, and between some of the stages it is necessary to withstand a certain period of time.

Step-by-step instructions for building a house from a bar

Selection of material

The duration of construction and its technology proportionally depends on the type of timber. Faster to build a house from the dried tree, but considering the material costs, the construction will cost much more expensive. It is cheaper to build a building from a raw bar, but the construction in this case is more time.
For housing construction, these types of wood are used:
1. Profiled timber.
2. One-piece timber.
Advantages of a profiled timber:
- resistance to deformations;
- minimum construction costs;
- the risk of posting is excluded;
- excellent thermal insulation;
- high-quality armor from producing;
- no additional lifting of the walls is required;
- A simple assembly provides the speed of construction;
- Impressive appearance.

Disadvantages:
- high maritability;
- needs impregnation with funds to increase biozochetics and flame retardants;
- the formation of cracks at elevated temperature;
- need an additional insulation of the walls;
- redevelopment of the erected brusade house is impossible;
- dependent on weather conditions.
The advantages of a whole bar:
- does not need to use special equipment;
- There are no problems with the acquisition, since such a bar is widespread;
- Low price, makes a timber accessible to everyone.

Disadvantages:
- the cost of finishing;
- low protection against purge;
- decent cracking of the bar;
- Such a construction will need two-way trim;
- need careful selection: compliance with GOST, the absence of fungus;
- In the presence of fungus, the timber needs to be treated with antiseptic means.
When choosing, put a bet on the wear resistance of wood. Immoverness in the choice of timber, as well as adherence to technology are a guarantor in high quality.

Preparation of materials

All the required volume of material should be collected before the start of construction. Purchase of materials foresees two development options:
- buying a finished bar. When ordering the material, the customer points out all the necessary measurements and acquires a ready-made timber with grooves that can immediately be used;
- Buy wood that needs to be prepared with your own hands. In this case, cut the bars to have to be independently, after which it should be treated with an antiseptic. Only after that the construction of the house will begin.
When buying wood, pay attention to the following factors:
- wood quality;
- did not eat beetles with this bar and whether they live in it;
- Are there any end-to-end cracks in the tree;
- Does not be struck by a ram with fungus.

Project development

Drawing up a brusade house scheme involves attentiveness and accuracy of calculations. It is possible to draw the project with your own hands.

The creation of a plan consists of several steps that include their nuances:

1. Determination of the size of the house and directly its scheme.
At this stage, it is important to take into account the features of the purpose of the premises and the functions they will perform, also all the necessary systems (ventilation, heating, etc.). It is important that there are rooms next to each other with high humidity rooms (kitchen, toilet, bathroom).
2. Calculation of the number of materials.
When calculating the consumption of the material, you need to consider the thickness of the tree, as well as its length. The usual ram is a six-meter, so if the walls of the house are scheduled to be longer, it is docked in length.
Many building companies create projects for brusade houses by order. When drawing up drawings, all the rules are followed. The house built according to such schemes will be geometrically correct and seismic resistant. Also on the Internet you can find a lot of photos with examples of ready-made brusade houses.

Laying foundation

The foundation for a wooden house should be very durable. When choosing the type of foundation, the following circumstances should be considered:
- characteristics of the soil;
- features of the house design;
- The magnitude of the construction of the structure.
In terms of lumber, designed to build at home, it is easy to calculate the load of the future facilities.
Foundation options:
1. Finely broken tape.
2. Deeply swallowed tape.
3. Column.
4. Pile.
Poyny, as well as minor embezzlement, the base is considered more economical. But more popularly plugged belt foundation.

The basis of such a foundation should be laid on a depth of 50 to 70 cm.

Laying of the first crown

In order for the high humidity did not fail the first crown, the buffer element should be created between it and the foundation. As such an element, a lining board is impregnated with an antiseptic (50 mm thick), which is usually manufactured from larch.

Before putting the board adjacent to the side of the base, is covered with two layers of rubberoid. The waterproofing layer will provide a cut-off of moisture.

Installation of walls

Step-by-step laid out of the rows from the bar is the construction of walls. To prevent displacement, begged. They are attached to the ranks of wood. The dense angular connection is ensured by the presence of grooves and spikes.

They should additionally insulate pacles or other seal. Laying the phalanx of the bar, spikes and groove alternate.
There are several methods for connecting brusons in the corners:
- connection to a warm angle;
- compounds in the bowl;
- Connection in paw.
On the video on the Internet you can find and see a detailed briefing of the corner connection of the bar.
In places where the installation of doors and windows is scheduled, the size of the bar is calculated, given the magnitude of the day. All overwhelms are weak places for the walls. To make the wall stronger, some bars laid clearly by its size. When the grazing assembly is completed, and it will fall, the excess material is cut.

To increase the strength and fire resistance, the walls are treated with special substances. To increase the protection against wind, all seams should be addressed (shut down). Many builders of their wooden cottages are laying out in the online video, in which step by step represents the installation of a church.

Roof construction

The high probability of repairing the roof after building a house, guarantees its complex geometry. Therefore, the roof construction technology should be simpler. Therefore, it is better to build a batch roof.

After the construction of the walls, the ceiling lags are put on them, so that they protrude with 50 cm wall. The gap between them should be equal to the width of the insulation of 60 cm or 90 cm.
Next is the assembly of the rafter system. To strengthen the rafyled, the riglels and racks are used. Then the fronts are sewn. The lamp is performed with a maximum step of 400 mm, and is attached to rafters.

Finishing work

You can look at the video, how do you look like a bar, and how their finish is held with the presence of all the nuances.

Arrangement of floors

During the installation of log cabins, on the beams of overlaps, a pre-coating of the floor is created. The floor itself is installed from two steps:

1. Laying the floorboard.
2. Laying the draft floor.
The floor must be inspired, for this, mineral wool or other thermal insulation material is placed between the draft floor boards.

For floor covering, in addition to the floorboard, laminate can be used, as well as other materials.

Ceiling arrangement.

To reduce the heat loss of the house, the ceiling must be insulated with a minimum of 200 cm insulation. It is placed between ceiling beams and protected by special vapor barrier and moisture-proof films. The ceiling of wooden houses is chosen by clapboard. Large beams, optionally, you can not sneak, they will serve as decorative elements.

Internal and external finish

Sometimes it is enough just to paint at home. This applies to those cases when a profiled timber was used.
While the house is erected with their own hands, passes for a long time, and the quality of the wood surface is characteristic of changing. Therefore, the timber should be overdo it before painting.
Inside the networks of communications. In the photo on the Internet, you can consider the result of finishing work in wood houses with a variety of design styles.

Installation of windows

In places intended for windows, create special processes (soup). For this, the grooves are cut out, the bar is located in them, preferably not exactly. It should be smaller in length, so that during the shrinkage of the walls the possibility of Bruus is descended. Thanks to this, the shrinkage passes calmly, and at its end the windows are mounted.

Installing not necessarily wooden windows, you can and plastic.

Installation of doors and partitions

To install doors, the same technology is used as when mounting windows.
Install partitions, exclusively after building a log. If a two-storey house with an area of \u200b\u200bgreater 60m2 is erected, then the first floor, not equipped with partitions, makes the construction of the building dangerous. For safety and strength, you need at least one partition.
In principle, build a house from a bar with their own hands is not at all difficult. You can watch video lessons in which all the nuances of the construction site are phased. The technology of building the house is simple and if it is observed, the built house will be solid for many years.

Video. Detailed film about the construction of houses from a bar

After preparing tools, you can start purchasing a bar.

What material it is better to choose

For construction, you can use a solid and profiled timber. The advantages of the first option:

Whole rates are cheaper than similar building materials.
It is not a problem to purchase it - it is sold at any construction market.
Such a bar does not lose natural humidity, so the timber preparation time is strongly reduced.
Where a whole bar is used, there is no need to apply special construction equipment.

Disadvantages when choosing in favor of a whole bar is as follows:

Additionally, you have to spend money on the finish. Since the whole boll itself is not beautiful, it is trimmed with clapboard or siding.

A tree in this option does not undergo a special drying procedure, therefore it may be affected by fungus. To avoid this to carry out the processing of special impregnations in advance, and these are additional costs.
If it is used to use a bar in solid form, the room will be less warm, since the interventic seams are well purged.

Attention! Bar without a profile cracks after shrinkage. Housing from solid wood needs to be covered on both sides.

The profiled option is as seen from the name, such a bar provides for the presence of a profile. Connections (spikes and grooves) are installed over its entire length.

Of the advantages allocate:

Walls during construction are obtained very smooth.
The profiled bar does not need a trim - it looks great in itself.
Interventic seams during construction are obtained very dense, and the room from the inside, respectively, warm.
In dense seams will not be able to get water from atmospheric precipitation, which will not allow the tree to rot.

Attention! The profiled timber has a small percentage of humidity, so it is easily lit. Before the construction, it needs to be treated with special firepressure.

From explicit deficiencies that this option has, you can note:

In the warm season, such a bar may crack.
Walls made of this material are obtained quite thin and need additional insulation outside.

Design and bookmark the foundation

Build a beautiful house from a bar is quite possible. Reduced the construction budget will help independently made the project. Approximately it looks like this:

The house itself has a rectangular shape.
The roof is double, maximum five. Corners and mansard windows increase the cost of work approximately 40%.
The basement is absent. This gives significant savings, as its presence increases costs at least 30%.
The foundation is smallly buried.
In the construction of the 1st floor and some window openings.
There are no columns, balconies and erkers.
The walls are very simple.
The windows have a standard size.
Facade traditional.

After the project is approved, you can proceed to the foundation tab.

Brous house build on a concrete or wooden basis. Most often use the first option. First poured concrete, then it is built on it the base of the brick. Only on top of this design begin to lay a timber. As a basis for a wooden house, you can use several types of foundations:

blowed;
small-breeding;
ribbon type;
columnar.

In most cases, fine-brewed and tape options are prepared under the wooden building. The depth of the embedding is enough 50-70 cm.

How to build walls, roof, arrange floor and separate housing

On the finished foundation of the bar put on the ranks one to another until the walls of the necessary height. The tree did the grooves, with which the logs are tightly adjacent to each other. To the walls are stronger necessarily go into the progress of spikes intended for the connection.

Attention! All seams need to be legally. This will make the walls unproduced.

On materials during the roof improvement, it is better not to save. Options can be chosen a lot on a different budget. Experienced builders advise to equip various sections of roofs of different size boards. For example, a board 140x40 mm is required for rafters, and for squeaks and 100x40 mm racks.

When furnaceing the floor should also be guided by its own preferences. Under the screed must be a waterproofing layer for which several material options can be used:

bay composition;
coating materials;
rolled waterproofing;
penetrating moisture protection.

To the inner design of the floor also need to approach well all the details.

Council. For housing, built from BRUSEV, coatings made on the basis of wood are best suited, that is, parquet and laminate.

The next stage of the construction is the arrangement of heating, energy supply, sewage, water supply. At the same stage, the doors are installed between the rooms, the finish coating of the floor and the ceiling is mounted.

The outer decoration of the walls is also selected on the basis of the preferences of future tenants. Siding, lining, paint. In the case when the timber has an excellent appearance, you can leave the outer side without finishing.

Getting more information about construction can help photos and video materials attached to the article. Of course, the independent building of the house from the bar is not the task of the lungs. However, when handing out technology, you can get a reliable, beautiful and inexpensive home for yourself and family.

House do it yourself from a bar: video

Frame assembly technology from a bar for home or bath

Organization of the workplace for assembling walls

In order for the work to argue, the bars lay out to the stack at a distance of 5-6 meters from the structure with one or better - from his two sides. Each layer of BRUSEV in the stack is placed on gaskets from the boards.

Near the storage room tools workplace for marking and cutting BRUSEV. A variant of the device of such a workplace is shown in the figure.

The marking of the timber using the template is convenient to perform at an altitude of 0.9 - 1.1 meters in the markup zone, node A in the figure. After marking, the timber is lowered to low lining into the cutting zone. In this position, the timber is convenient and safely sawing with a chain saw.

Crawled timber raise the wall. To facilitate the lift, signs are suitable - inclined bars, which the top end relieve on the upper crown of the cut. The timber bar is moved using a rope.

Klion-shaped stops are navigated to the windows that make the ramp rise more secure. In addition to safety, the stops allow you to do small forces. Even one person can raise a bar if necessary, fixing it with the help of stops at intermediate points.

Works on the assembly of a log of timber is the most convenient to carry out a brigade of four. You can work together, just work will go slower.

For the installation of the upper crowns of the cut and roofs build forests.

Three-tiered forests on the front of the house. 1 - extreme racks; 2 - M-shaped rack of forests of the first tier on the side facade; 3 - flooring; 4 - Central racks; 5 - Splits cruciform (shown conditionally); 6 - Baries

The assembly of the upper crowns of the church leads from the level of the first tier. Flooring the first tier is laid on G - shaped racks, pos. 2 in the picture. Racks are installed around the walls of the house and attach to the walls with bobbies, pos.6.

At the end of the roof (attic), on the facades where the device is needed, it is necessary to make forests in three tiers. For the device racks of forests use boards 50 x 150 mm. Flooring the same boards.

Working from the forest is more convenient, faster and safer than with stairs - do not forget about it.

Marking of bars for assembling walls

Practical construction experience shows that the sequence of the elements of angular connections in the head is not realistic.

Prior to the start of work, they draw a scheme of assembling the walls of the house, on which they denote: the sequence number of the crown, the type of connecting element at the ends of the blanks, the position of the openings in the wall.

An example of a wall assembly scheme of the house is shown in Figure:

The layout of the corner joints of the bar and the joints of the details of the longitudinal walls, for the house with the overall dimensions of 6x9 meters. BUT and FROM - longitudinal walls; D. and B. - transverse walls; E. - inner wall of timber - partition; 1 - Shakes of Bruusyev.

At the house, which is shown in the diagram, each crown consists of 7 segments of bars long from 3 to 6 m.

The crown of the longitudinal wall consists of two parts: the main bar of the standard length is 6 meters and a dog, 3 meters long. On one crown lay on the left long bars, and on the right are good. In the next crown, the laying begins in a similar manner, but on the right.

The details of the crown of the transverse wall and partitions are made from one bar of standard length of 6 meters.

To eliminate cold bridges in the outer walls, joints of the bar of the longitudinal wall, pos.1, perform, making vertical cutouts "in the floor of a tree" with Faststom at 15 - 20 cm. The beam in the corners of the crowns is connected to the dressing with a native spike (see below).

How to quickly and quickly perform marking of thorns, grooves and other profiles, ensure the identity of the size of the bars blanks?

The easiest way to do this with the help of templates. The template is applied to the timber and transfer the pattern of the pattern profiles to the surface of the bar.

It is more convenient to place faster and there will be less errors if the template completely repeats the contour of the part, it has the same length with a locked part. I left the template on the bar and immediately moved all the sizes and profiles on the workpiece.

For our example, it will be necessary to make seven templates, according to the number of parts in the crown. One template is placed two mirror wall details.

If you think about, the number of templates can be reduced. Consider how to make universal templates for the markup of the details of the longitudinal walls of the house (for the wall assembly scheme, see above).

Two templates (isolated bright yellow) for the markup of the bar of longitudinal walls. 4 - groove for indigenous spike; 5 - groove for spike inner wall; 6 - pattern; 7 - Bar of Dog.

In the figure, at the top shows the template For the markup of the main bar in the crown, whose good is located on the right. On the wall markup scheme, these are the wints A1, A3, A5 and C1, C3, C5.

Lower pattern It serves to mark the main bar in the crowns with a good left - A2, A4, A6 and C2, C4, C6.

Templates at first glance are the same, but differ in that the grooves, pos.5, for connecting to the partition, are located in different places of templates.

The same patterns are used to mark up the details of the good. To do this, on templates at points b. and from drilled through holes, and at points but and d. Cuts are made.

For the markup of the problem, the template is applied to a bar and through the holes and cuts heating points on the surface of the workpiece.

Remember this reception with the device holes in the template. This will help you create universal templates in many other cases.

Templates are made of an arched "inches".

As a result, we manage to reduce the number of templates from seven to three (2 - for longitudinal walls and 1 - for transverse). Two longitudinal templates (right and left) provide the ability to get blanks for longitudinal walls, and one transverse pattern allows you to harvest parts for transverse walls and partitions.

And now consider how to apply templates. For the markup of the first vents of the crown (for example, starting on the left), the left template is laid on the bar and turn the end template to the marker on the left, then two grooves and, finally, the sample for the connection "in the floor of the tree". The marked timber is transferred to the opening site, where unnecessary fragments (they are better at the markup
Stroke) cut with a chain saw.

How to place details with spikes? Obviously, spikes and grooves are elements of the same assembly, which means they must correspond to each other in size and location. In the details with a spike at the place of the groove mark the spike.

If the size of the groove is 5 × 5 cm, then the spike must have dimensions - 4.5 × 4.5 cm. The clearance is filled with interventory insulation.

The profile of the template is transferred to the upper edge of the bar. The markup is transferred to the vertical face of timber with the help of a square. On this markup and carry out neat cuts.

How to collect smooth walls from a timing of different widths

The technical conditions (TU) for the manufacture of timber is allowed to deviate the size of the timber in one direction or another side of the standard value indicated in the documents.

If in the purchase documents, the standard sizes of the timber are indicated, for example, the section 150x150 mm. and 6 meters long, the actual dimensions will differ from the standard.

Each bar, in the bar brought to the construction site, will differ from the dimensions specified in the documents, a few millimeters. Sizes in the section and the length of the bars will be different.

The size in size must be considered when developing templates, marking of the bar and assembly of walls.

How to collect smooth walls if the bar is different in width and length?

b. - minimum timing width; delta B. - the difference between a narrow and wide bar.

Obviously, from a bar of different widths, it is possible to make a smooth only one surface of the wall - or outside, or from the inside of the construction.

If you want to make a smooth wall of the house outside, then all bars in the wall are aligned along the outer face. Then inside the house the wide bars will perform from the wall on the value of "Delta b."(The difference between narrow and wide bars). The alignment of the outer face leads to an increase in the gaps in the corner connection of the BRUSEV (see Figure).

If the bars in the wall align on the inner face, then the "steps" of the repellent bars will be already on the outer surface of the wall. The wall is usually trimmed. And if the bar has to remove the chamfer from the outer edges, the steps on the wall will be invisible and without a sheaving. Corner compounds of BRUSIV are obtained more dense, "warm".

How and what to connect the crowns

Each crown of a log is connected to the lower crown with metal or wooden brazers. Begroen placed at a distance of about 250-300 mM. From the end of the bar and then every 1-1.5 meters of the length of the bar.

Each detail of the crown is fixed at least two coppers. The length of the brazen must be at least 1.5 times, more than the height of the bar.

cm., pos. one.

Braided from round steel diameter 6-8 mm. - Pins with a pointed end or nails (6x200-250 mM.), just clog the hammer in the bars of the crowns, the option a. on the image.

The upper ends of the napillates from any material must be plugged into the bar on 2-4 cm. If this is not done, then during the drying of the bar and shrinkage, the cutting of the cut will be copied above the bar and raise the upper crown. Between the crowns are formed a large gap.

For the same reason it is impossible to make clogged berthed from reinforcement steel. The corrugated surface of such copiers will hold the bars of the crowns from moving during a shrink shrink, even if the heater is bold to the bar. The crowns will simply hang on such impudations.

Steel clogged gripped small diameter can not always provide the necessary wall rigidity, especially with a large length of the walls of the walls. Their use can be recommended for small-sized buildings - for example, bath. To increase the rigidity of the walls of large buildings, it is necessary to install the increased diameter.

Steel braided with a diameter of 10 and more than millimeters, as well as wooden brazers insert into the holes drilled in a bar. The diameter of the holes make a little less than the diameter of the heater.

With a dense landing of the heel into the hole, the rigidity of the wall increases, but the risk increases that the shrink shrinkage will be interferent.

Wooden braided with a diameter of 25-30 mM. Convenient to cut from round cuttings for the tool. Such cuttings are made of solid wood. From the bottom end of the brazen, it is recommended to remove the chamfer - it will be easier to score the brazen into the hole.

You can cut from the usual chalkboard "inches" beaten square sections 25x25 mm. From one end of the workpiece shoot chamdes. Such stoles are clogged into a hole made by a drill with a diameter of 24 mm.

The ribs of such a heat from a relatively "soft" coniferous wood when smoking smashed, wood is compacted, providing a sufficiently dense landing of brazen in the hole.

How to drill holes in a bar under the brave

The depth of the holes in the wall for the installation of napillates should exceed at least 4 cm. Begotten length. Moreover, the hole should be free from chips.

For drilling holes in a bar, sufficiently deep and large diameter, they usually use a low-speed electric floring (drill). In the passport of the power tool, it is usually indicated that the drill diameter in one or another material is calculated. Given the greater drilling depth, it is better to choose a drill with a reserve in power.

For drilling holes in a bar, it is convenient to equip the drill focus, as shown in the figure.

The stop bar is attached to a drill with steel clamps.

Emphasis, in the form of a wooden bar, attach to a drill, for example, clamps. Emphasis stops drilling at the necessary depth, but the rotation of the drill after that does not stop. Continuing to rotate in one place, the drill cleans the hole from the chips, it turns into and, then, easily gets from the deep hole.

The drilling of the holes for connecting the crowns is convenient to produce in a bar, which is already installed on the wall in the project position on the interwetant insulation. But here usually The problem arises - the interventovaya gasket is not amenable to drilling. The fibers of the laying material are simply wound on the drill and clamp it.

You have to install a bar on the wall in two receptions. First, the timber is mounted without gasket and temporarily fix from the offset, for example, nails. Drill holes under bent. Then the timber is shifted from the wall and laid the interventic insulation.

In places of drills gasket cut out with a sharp knife. Then, the pace removed is re-installed in place, already on the gasket, and fastened with bellows.

Drilling holes in a bar laid on the wall should be produced, standing on a solid base - forests, suspensions, flooring. Stand on a narrow wall and drill dangerous. The drill can "eat", a powerful drill will unfold and easily throw an employee from the wall.

How to make a smooth wall of the curve

In the bar brought to the construction site, part of the bars may be curved. The bar may have a curvature in the same plane, or screw the screw and become a rhombid in cross section.

If there is an opportunity, then the curves of the bars are better not to use for the walls of the house or bath. Brux with curvature is recommended to cut into smaller parts and use in other, less responsible places.

A small amount of timber having a curvature in the same plane can be used for wall mounting. You should not put such a timber in the wall in bulk up or down, in the hope that it will straighten under the weight of the house - the bar will not straighten, even if it is placed in the lower crowns.

The curve bar is placed in the wall, straightening it in the horizontal plane as shown in the figure.

Curve bar straighten consistently fixing it with brazers

The curved timber is drilled, combining it at the drilling points with a direct bar. After laying the interventovate insulation, the curved timber is fixed with impudent at one end and the intake is consistently fixed with anticipation at the other points.

To extend the timber of great efforts. Easy work will help the lever and bracket

Interventical gasket - insulation, seal

For and cold, gasket is laid between the crowns. Previously, for this was used moss or linen pass. Currently, there are special laying materials based on flank or flax. Material for sale in the form of roll ribbon 20 cm.

The tape of the gasket material is laid throughout the upper face of a bar in two or three layers and fastened with brackets using a construction stapler.

If the wall is not trimmed, the gasket must be 1-2 from the outer edge of the bar cm.Otherwise she will wet.

Some wizards lay the gasket material into one layer and offered after shrinkage to cut the jokes, adding an additional amount of material in the voids of the joints. In this embodiment, we have a smaller flow rate.

Work on the panties of the joints is quite time-consuming and tedious. It is better to immediately put the seal with a cessary, in several layers (three layers) to eliminate the need for horizontal jacks.

How to control the accuracy of the harbor

In the process of construction of the house or bath, it is necessary to regularly check the accuracy of the harness from the bar. To do this, it is enough to control the following five parameters:

Vertical angles.
Height of corners and walls.
The horizontal of the crowns and the upper faces of the bar.
Straightness of the walls.
The quality of laying interventory insulation.

For control vertical angles Apply the following method.

To control the verticality of the angle on each side of the crown apply a vertical line. 1 - lower strapping; 2 - crowns; 3 - control lines; 4 - Cocol.

On each side of the crown at the same distance from the corner rib painted the vertical line.

With the proper laying of the crowns, this line should be direct and coincided with a vertical. The vertical of the line is checked with a plumb.

If deviations are detected, then the operation is suspended and eliminated by the cause.

The height of the corners and walls are measured roulette. The measurement lead from the base horizontal line, which is applied to the strapping bar using a water level.

Horizontality of the crowns and upper faces Bruus check by level.

Straightness of walls Determine visually by pulling along the cord wall.

Especially carefully and constantly check the verticality and height of the angles. Deviations from the verticality are eliminated, up to the replacement of the bar in the crown. The height of the angles is adjusted, increasing the thickness of the gasket between the crowns in the axial angles. Sometimes it helps, if you knock down a sledge hammer in a bar in a high corner.

The quality and thickness of laying interventory insulation check visually, examining the walls.

Window and doorways in Srub

From the second crown, the doorways begin to form doorways. The distance from the floor to the window is selected in the range of 70 - 90 cm.

Laying timets in the crowns in the zone of openings has its own characteristics.

but - scheme arrangement of openings in the wall, where: 1 - wall; 2 - open doors; 3 - simpleness; 4 - open windows. in - Scheme of cutting timber, where C is the balance of cutting. g. - Option of the device of the opening in a chair with the installation of temporary bonding bars, pos.7. d. - Option with installation in the opening of the deck, pos.6 - immediately get the opening ready for installation of the door or window.

In practice, two options for the formation of openings are used when assembling a church.

One option - " g " on the image. The opening is done in the draft version, it is only preparation for creating an opening. The opening is preparing for the installation of doors and windows not immediately when assembling a log. This work is left for later - usually do after shrinking a church.

This option allows you to speed up the work on the grazing. In the opening, the bars are installed, bonding commonness with a log cabin, pos.7 in the figure. In the doorway, install at least two such bars.

In the process of shrinkage, the seaspler chub can "lead" inward or outward. To prevent it bar in stocks fasten up vertically installed boards.

In another embodiment - " d."In the picture, the openings immediately prepare for the installation of doors and windows. To do this, decks (soups) are installed in the openings - a vertical bar with a groove, pos.6 in the figure. The groove includes spikes of timber. In this way, the plain timber is fixed from the displacement. In this embodiment, the openings are immediately prepared for installation of doors and windows.

The decks (souls) traditionally serve not only for connecting timber in the opening, but also perform the role of window slopes, windowsill. To do this, they are carefully treated, relieve curly chamfer.

Installation option Window in a wall of timber: 1 - finishing of slopes of the window; 2 - the board of vertical souls with a rail - spike, enters into the slide of the wall of the wall; 3 - frame of the plastic window; 4 - sealing ribbon psyl

In modern conditions, when installing plastic windows and a device of plastic slopes and windows, the decks (s) can not be done. Brux in the opening fasten so. In the ends of the bars along the entire length of the opening, the vertical grooves drink and insert a railway there, which fixes the bars of simpleness from the offset.

The length of the deck (s) or racks should be less than the height of the opening by 5-7 cmnot to prevent the shrink shrink.

Baths for home, baths in your city

How to install windows in a wall of timber

If the opening in the wall was made in the draft version (see above), then the installation of the window is starting from drinking the opening under the desired size. To do this, the rails are stuck, pos.2 in the figure, and the chain saw along the edge of the rails scolded bars.

Proper window installation in a wall of a bar. 1 - wall; 2 - Rake; 3 - platband; 4 - window; 5 - window box; 6 - Bar wall above the window; 7 - interwidder insulation; 8 - Shrinking gap over the window and deck; 9 - window frames; 10 - Bar wall (simpleness); 11 - deck; 12 - Nail.

Then the disk saw on the ends of the bars wall (simple) is cut out spikes. The spikes, pos.10, are planted with grooves, pos.11. The joints are sealing insulation. The deck is naked to the walls of the wall with nails clogged at an angle, pos. 12. So nails will not prevent the shrink shrink.

In the window prepared in this way, the window box is inserted, which is attached to the decks with self-draws. Above the window box be sure to leave the gap, pos. 8, to compensate for shrinkage. The magnitude of the gap 5-7 cm. The clearance is filled with soft insulation material.

Compensation clearance must be left over the top end of the deck.

Similarly prepare openings and insert the doors to the walls from the bar.

After completing the assembly of the first floor of the house, the log house is overlapped with inter-storey or attic beams (if the structure is one-story) overlap.

May be a constructive element. And can perform and independent function.

The next page describes the structure of the broken roof of the house from the bar, where the beams of floor overlapping simultaneously serve as an element of a malicious roof filament frame.

Look at the video clip in which the logging technology from the construction bar is described in a detail.

Profiled wood with proper quality processing gives a brushless connection. The shutter from the elements of the groove is a cup of a cup of a dual-type labyrinth type tested by decades. The adjustment of premissive angular connections is able to turn the frame of the brusade house into the thermos without significant heat loss.

Cold bridges are blocked

Order a ready-made typical construction project of a cottage from a bar with reference to the region is beneficial. Select from savings on the network and adapt the technical project under the request by the designer. What is the advantage of the project:

Get detailed calculation of material costs, components, cost of work;
Questions of lack of material or the realization of the remaining surplus will not arise;
Detailed drawings and positive assemblies will be removed from the labyrinth of errors;
Transportation costs are optimized;
Laying pipes and cables will not cause difficulties;
The maximum cost of the standard project is 20 thousand rubles.

But the implementation of the idea rests in the need to hire the team of qualified carpenters. The level of responsibility, skill of specialists and the seriousness of hidden flaws will turn out to be the first wintering.

How to be inexperienced in the construction of the average man, conceived to build a warm house from the profiled bar with their own hands? Order Domocomplekt at the local house-building plant and save this step with a solid amount and approach the period of settlement.

In essence, the household complex designer for the builder. The profiled bar is cut into size, the lobby tail plugs are made without gaps on the exact factory equipment, which eliminates the appearance of cold bridges.

In the attached video, the master jewelry enjoy a chainsaw for this purpose. But are they capable of reproducing the accuracy of the machine stream? It can be seen that the cuts are made approximately with a margin. Will they definitely be legally or moored non-coaching of louds? Doubt pushes a self-employment to occupation. And the cost of work will fall into a million amount than factory processing.

House from the profiled bar do it yourself

Benefit acquisition of a home complex from a profiled timber

The technological worker replaced the carpenter - that's what the mehowing thing means

The developer is limited in time, looking for the opportunity to reduce the construction of a brusade house. Let's figure out on points, whether the costs of cutting and sampling are reasonable:

Get a chamber of chamber drying 10-16% humidity in sealed packages;
Procedure treatment with a film-forming stabilizer induline. This means that the main channel of absorbing moisture is blocked, the crack of the crack does not disappear;
Each detail is numbered, the instruction will indicate the assembly place;
Fit and refinement are excluded, time is spent only on the process of assembling at home;
Check prices on wholesale bases per cubic meter of a long profiled bar. It turns out that the cost of a similar unit of the house complex coincides or more than 10% - which is where the benefit is hiding;
A set of a bar on a house of 120 m 2 will cost about 650 000 r., In 190 m 2 - about 950 000 r.;
The cost of assembly will be averaged by 25% of the cost of the bar. Order the reserve fund at their discretion;
The chip thickness will be offered according to the climatic zone: the common size of a bar of 150 x 150 mm is suitable for Voronezh. In Siberia, the wall thickness is less than 220-250 mm unacceptable;
Installation will accelerate twice;
The material is processed by an antiseptic and antipiren by 100%.

Complete set 100% from the base to the skate, such is a construction service

Ready household complexes from the manufacturer

Bookmark Fundament

Weight of 1 m 3 dried timber of coniferous rocks 0.5 tons. Roofing, inter-storey floors, furniture, wind and snow loads. Total mass will not exceed 40 tons for a two-storey house 10 x 10 m. The depth of groundwater and soil type affect the choice of the base.

The pile will accelerate the beginning of the grazing assembly. Column and fine-breeding foundations of time consumption: the volume of the removed soil is great. To prevent the wet of concrete, a compacted sandy bearing is made 0.3 m, over a gravel pillow.

Concrete foundation is poured in advance, not less than six months before the start of construction. Box reinforcement with a metal period Ø 12-14 mm will harden the monolith. After the polymerization of the concrete, the base should stand in order to reveal the soil when freezing and thawing revealed weak points or confirmed strength.

The layout of the foundation of the house is carried out according to the drawing. Corner basic points of external and internal conjugations require special attention. Accuracy is required in the location of the threaded mortgages. After removing the wall formwork and the upper face is deceived by waterproofer. Warming with polystyrene favor will extend the foundation of life. The backflow of clay is made with a bevel out.

Raise the house from the profiled timber

By level, align the upper edge of the foundation, we deposit 2 rows of rubberoid for waterproofing. We put antiseptic and processed bitumen mastics of the fifty-mastic boards of a larger format: they will cause lags.

The lower row is subject to disaggregation. I donate boards - it is easier to replace them. Along the layer of the insulation, we put the first crown. Special attention pays for the coincidence of the corners. Level, plumb, cord for testing diagonal do not release from hand.

In the sinuses of each row of the profiled timber and angular compounds of the outer walls are invested with a tape of the insulation. Wooden bent, scored with tension, strengthen the connection of the chub elements. Steel ties will cause the point of dew in the thickness of the material, provoke a premium and rotting. Therefore, they are used only to communicate a cut with a foundation.

Cold no loophole: barrier reliable

The installation of the lag under the draft floor is consistent with the size of a plate mineral wool insulation in increments of 0.6 m. Fastening to the bruster with reinforced corners and stabilizes the spatial lag on the suspension.

The splicing is allowed by the adhesive or imposition of a cropping zone with a fixation zone of at least 0.6 m of each end. On both sides of the lags are sewn with OSP 9 mm plates or moisture-resistant plywood. Mandatory laying of a steaming membrane.

Interlated overlap of the black floor analog. The difference is only in the number of insulation that has become soundproofed. Partitions are mounted in one axis - a partial unloading of bearing walls is needed: In addition to its own weight, the roof transmits a wind load.

The skill of the assembly of walls from the profiled timber and partitions according to the drawings and instructions comes quickly. An important concern is not covered with a roof, protect the log house and unclaimed blanks from precipitation and humidity in bad weather.

In the heat and frost, the cracking of the naked water moisture is inevitable. The appearance of cracks will worsen the heat conduction indicator. Liquidation of damage - a long "pleasure" is not for one day.

Let's give the word Scandinavam

There is a lot of insulation, superior wood to save the heat. A profiled large-scale coat ram due to the abundance of waste, unsuitable for processing in building materials. Swedish builders went to reduce the cost of processes due to the inclusion of paired parts with a thickness of 70 mm.

The use of smaller wood reduces costs up to 40%. The foamed breathable insulation seals joints, allows you to reduce the power of the heating devices even in the Arctic zone. Ideal at the cost and thermophysical properties in the panizol market.

Tested with a replacement of a wooden bar on a laminated analog of chipboard from chips. The heat insulator in 100 mM is the main load on heat resistant. The resulting monolith is not afraid of warping and cracking. Shrinkage also decreased. Often it makes sense in taking into service such a novelty.

Progress does not stand still

Know how to build, learn to wait

After you summarized the house under the roof, the windows and the doors were closed and left only slots for drafts (let it blow out an excess of moisture) you need to wait for the shrinkage. Under its own weight, the spikes of the bar will be deeper into the grooves of the structure. Pause lasts until six months. Windows, door boxes are waiting for its o'clock, otherwise it will break the design.

Now it's time to carry out additional insulation from the inside. It should be noted that the costs of the profiled bar are reduced this way: a reduction in size by 50 mm in thickness and the width is presented with savings of 2-2.5 thousand rubles. per cube.

The only condition: natural and artificial materials with wire conductivity are used. Turn the housing into a foam box - we will destroy the tree, in the room we will arrange a bath. There will have to invest in forced ventilation.

Oh neither a profiled bar, and the smoothness of the walls is relative. If you like the interior of the hut - Leave as it is. The texture of the bar under the layer of varnish looks attractive. But, of course, the design of the modern stylish house requires a different approach.

As an option - plasterboard, fixed by vertical holders - hobs the flaws. There is a heat insulator and the house will not be terrified. While one floor is separated, the other will already become a residential.
Protection of the facade of the house from the profiled bar, as a regular event, will be crazy. Lucky, paints, impregnations burn out under the sun, lose protective properties. Perhaps sooner or later you will have to think about the ventilated facade. But the house collected from the bar, under the plastic facing loss the charm of natural material.

Outcome: your own roof over your head

Conclusion

Building a house from a bar on its own for the summer season is a sinking task. Do not make adjustments to the finished project - this is the only wishes of the manufacturer. The implementation of a large-scale project by the customer and the performer in one person ensures compliance with your expectations.