How to plaster the ceiling with gypsum plaster. Leveling plaster ceilings

Many who have encountered finishing work, know that the most difficult thing is to achieve perfect evenness of surfaces. But many people live in houses where the ceiling covering is made of slabs, which form bumps and terrible joints. If the floor and walls turn out to be more convenient areas, then plastering the ceiling is not for everyone. At the same time, using other options for alignment is simply impractical or impossible. Therefore, you need to be patient and follow necessary rules.

Before starting work, an eternal dilemma arises - what material is better to use? Doubts arise because of the wealth of choice that buyers now have. Indeed, hardware stores are filled with various mixtures, but you should focus on three main ones:

Ready-made solutions based on polymers. They meet all the needs that arise when do-it-yourself ceiling plastering is carried out. There is also a significant drawback - the high price. Considering that it is necessary to correct large irregularities, the financial costs will be quite large.
Cement-sand mixtures. These are excellent materials in which lime is additionally added. They require some skill to work with, but they do not shrink (when used correctly).
Gypsum compounds. It seems to be best option for independent application. Of course, they will not lie on the surface themselves, but it is much easier to plaster with such mixtures. In addition, they have excellent adhesion to concrete substrates.

Plaster mixtures for the ceiling

On a note! You need to be careful when choosing a material. The fact is that many manufacturers indicate on their packaging that the composition is intended exclusively for work with ceiling structures. This is a marketing ploy, because such a product will cost several times more than identical options.

The choice of the method of performing plastering work

Plastering is done in two ways:

with the use of beacons;
without using them.

The second method is best left to specialists who have such vast experience that they do not need extra devices. Independently for a beginner, this option can be used only when the ceiling is pre-leveled with GKL plates. In this case, it turns out that the applied layer will play the role finish coat. It is only required to putty drywall and its joints.

It should be noted right away that it is often necessary to provide for the use of a reinforcing mesh, and divide the work into several stages. That is, if the layer is more than 50 mm, then it should not be applied immediately, but should be engaged in its sequential formation.

Attention! If the expected layer is more than 5 cm, while the work is carried out on large area, then it is better to refuse such an option immediately. The fact is that there is a high probability of cracks and collapse.

We suggest that you additionally watch a video that tells how to plaster the ceiling with your own hands without beacons.

Padding

Many people have a question - why is this necessary? After all modern materials, and especially the inscriptions on them, indicate that they can be applied immediately. Therefore, many who decide to plaster the surface without pre-treatment find themselves in an unpleasant situation. Namely, it simply falls off in pieces and is covered with numerous cracks. And all because the technology was violated, which implies mandatory priming.

The event itself is quite simple, you just need to mix the primer well and apply it to the required areas. But there are also some tricks:

Working with the base - the composition is applied in two layers. The first impregnates the pores and binds them, the second fixes and strengthens the result.
In the event that the plastering of the ceiling is carried out in several stages, then it is required to apply a primer after each layer. To do this, allow the surface to dry, and then primed. Saving is not worth it. The costs are not so big, but the effect is significant.
If the ceiling is being prepared for painting, then before painting it must be covered with such a mixture. Two positive points are achieved at once. First, the consumption of paint is reduced. Secondly, the surface is much more beautiful.

Priming is mandatory and very milestone plastering works

Do not allow dust to enter the areas treated with the solution. Otherwise, the whole effect will be reduced to zero, and it may become even worse. We'll have to clean the ceiling again.

Sealing joints

As already noted - most of the apartments have ceilings that are made of reinforced concrete slabs. There are designs that have significant deviations. In this case, plastering will be quite difficult and costly. And if it can be avoided, then it is better to do it.

On a note! The main disadvantage of stretch ceilings and plasterboard slabs is a decrease in the height of the room. At least 10 centimeters are lost. But, if a layer of plaster is supposed to be more than 40-50 mm, then this option becomes quite controversial.

In any case, all joints (seams) of the plates must be sealed.

Joints between floor slabs must be sealed, regardless of the final finish of the ceiling

This is done as follows:

The old composition is completely removed. It is better to use a hammer and chisel.
It happens that the difference in the plates gives an influx of the mixture. This area needs to be cleared.
The surface is cleaned with a metal brush and dust and dirt are removed. It turns out that a gap is formed, which can be quite deep. There are two ways to close it:
Everything is filled with mounting foam. This is done carefully so that there are no significant protrusions. If there are any, then after waiting for complete drying, they are cut off with a construction knife.
Cracks are clogged with rags, which is pre-impregnated with liquid plaster.
Be sure to prime the area, penetrating into the depth of the seam.
Next, the joint is covered with the first layer of plaster. He must hide the gap.
Do not let it dry, stick a reinforced tape. Apply the second layer.

Step-by-step instructions for plastering joints between concrete slabs

On a note! It should be remembered that above the slabs or in the layer old plaster- passes electrical cable. You have to be careful. If possible, it is better to change it to a new wire. So as not to redo the work later.

If the cracks in ceiling tiles no, then the places of their joints are processed a little differently:

The seams are slightly embroidered and primed.
A leveling layer of the mixture is applied and allowed to set.
Install a reinforcing tape and level the surface with a second layer.

Tool

Before you plaster the ceiling, you need to make sure that the tool is always at hand. You will need:

A drill with sufficient power. Of course, there are special mixers, but they are expensive, for home renovation it is not advisable to purchase them (if this is a one-time job).
Nozzle for mixing the solution (mixer).
Rule. There are options that have a built-in level. It is very comfortable.
A set of spatulas.
Falcon.
Level, better laser.

Main works

How the plastering will be carried out depends on the curvature of the surface. If it is insignificant, then the work will be done quite quickly and simply:

The ceiling is primed in two layers.
Plaster is applied to the ceiling and distributed by the rule.
If required, more mixtures are added. The result should be a flat surface.

But things are completely different when the error is more than 6 mm. You will need to use beacons. This is the only way to get a really flat ceiling.

Tips from experienced craftsmen:

When kneading a gypsum or other dry mortar, be sure to wait 10-15 minutes. Then repeat mixing. This time is required for the mixture to fully acquire its properties.
For greater convenience, when a large area of \u200b\u200bwork is expected, it is better to assemble a device called a goat. The process is quite tedious, because you have to keep your hands up and throw your head back for a long time.

Plastering the ceiling begins with the preparation already described. All of the above work must be completed.

The installation of beacons should begin with the determination of elevation differences. In order to do this quickly and accurately, it is better to use a plane construction device (laser). They do it like this:

The device is installed above the ceiling.
Enable horizontal scan.
Make measurements in several places. Measure the distance from the ceiling to the horizontal beam.
All readings are fixed on the ceiling.
It immediately becomes clear where the minimum and maximum differences are.

Why is this required? Having determined these indicators, you can calculate the required layer. It is done according to the principle: up to 5 mm is added to the most significant deviation.

On a note! If there is no laser device, then you can get by with a simple level. To do this, horizontal lines are beaten off along the perimeter of the walls. The indent point is the total distance from the floor. The level is applied with one end to the line, and holding on to the second, they bypass the room. So, it is possible to calculate the necessary indicators.

You can install beacons. They are perforated strips. They have a protruding back, with which the solution is leveled. The dimensions of these devices may be different, but it is better to select those that are slightly larger than the largest deviation.

Installation is carried out as follows:

Based on the length of the rule. It is better to use a tool that will be no more than 150 cm. The distance between the beacons is made smaller (120-130 cm).
Lighthouses are exposed, stepping back from the walls - 30 cm.
The fastening of profiles is done on a gypsum mixture. It is kneaded until thick.
Lines are marked on the ceiling. This is done for convenience. You can immediately apply the solution without being distracted by measurements. They do it precisely.
The beacons are pressed in, the accuracy of the installation is immediately checked. To do this, you must have a level at hand. With it, the required indicator is transferred to two opposite walls. Screw in the screws and pull the cord. Alignment is carried out on it.
Having exposed all the beacons, they wait for the solution to dry.

If possible, the acquisition of a laser level will be a great help. It makes it possible to quickly align the beacons.

Application of the mixture

How to plaster the ceiling and get a really flat surface? To do this, you need a spatula and a falcon. The second tool is used to transfer the solution.

The technology is:

Complete drying will occur only after a few days. If it is required to apply a layer of more than 2.5 - 3 cm, then a reinforcing mesh is first laid. It needs to be fixed. To do this, use screws and dowels.

If you still have questions, watch the video, which describes in detail the entire process of plastering the ceiling surface using beacons.

Naturally, in order to finally understand how to properly plaster the ceiling, you need to gain initial experience. And this is very easy to do if you follow the simple rules that are given above. Of course, you will have to make considerable efforts, because even professional craftsmen find this work quite difficult.

Ceiling plastering
Grouting a plastered surface

In order to describe as clearly as possible how to plaster the ceiling with your own hands, take as an example small room. For this we need the following materials:

laser or water level;
rule;
lighthouses;
gypsum plaster;
self-tapping screws with a dowel;
gypsum plaster.

Plastering tools.

Before you start plastering, you need to carefully mark and prime the surface.

Marking the surface of the ceiling and its primer

First you need to correctly mark the ceiling.

Beacons on the ceiling should be placed in the direction of light falling from the window.

This is necessary so that if some kind of error occurs during the installation of the beacons (most often the middle beacon is installed in violation), then it would not be so noticeable. Such subtleties must be taken into account, because when placing beacons across the room, the light falling from the window will reveal such an error.

Scheme for marking a room with beacons.

Beacons are installed depending on the width of the room. Up to three meters - two rows of beacons are placed, each row is installed at a distance of about 60 cm from the walls. The process of plastering ceilings with your own hands takes place in the following sequence: first it is plastered middle lane, then two side ones. In rooms with a width of 3 to 5 m, beacons are placed in three rows. If the width of the room is more than 5 m, then there can be four rows, and so on.

As an example, we took a room 3.5 m wide, so we need to install three beacon rows. We install two rows near the walls, retreating from them about 20 cm, and put the last one along the center of the room, thus, as if dividing it in two. In this case, you can start the plastering process in the direction from the center of the room to its wall. In this case, the length of the rule allows you to do this. The first beacon in each row should be about 2.5 m, slightly less than the length of the plaster rule. The size of the second can be any.

Then you need to note in which places the screws will be screwed in, they are needed for correct markup height difference in the room. On the ceiling, for your convenience, you can immediately write where which beacon will be located, so as not to re-measure them. After the marks for the self-tapping screws are applied, using a perforator, we make holes in the places of the marks and determine the dowels in these holes.

The sequence of applying primer layers to the ceiling: 1 - the first layer; 2 - the second layer; 3 - the direction of the rays of light from the window.

Before you start screwing in the screws, you need to treat the entire ceiling with a primer. There are a lot of primers for plastering work in hardware stores, so choose it in accordance with the surface that you are going to plaster. If the surface is smooth, then a stronger primer is needed, such as betokontakt. When processing the surface, you should not spare the primer. After you have completely processed the entire area of \u200b\u200bthe ceiling, you need to let it dry.

When the primer is dry, you will need to find the lowest point in the room. To find this point, you can use laser level if you don't have one, then a simple, water level will do. To measure the water level, you need to bind it to the rule and measure it, starting from the corner of the room, while marking the height level of each section near each hole for self-tapping screws. The purpose of these measurements is to find the lowest point where the thinnest layer of plaster will be. If you make a mistake when measuring, then the plaster may be overused, the layer will come out very thick. Or at the end of the work, you can rest against the plane of the ceiling, on which even the thinnest layer of plaster cannot be applied.

Methods for applying decorative plaster on the ceiling.

When the lowest place is near drilled holes found, we screw in the self-tapping screw so that it peeks out by about 5-7 mm. This thickness has a plaster beacon. Since the self-tapping screw was screwed into the lowest point of our ceiling, the other self-tapping screws will peek out a little more. We take the second self-tapping screw and screw it in at approximately the same level as the first. We check the horizontal line between them using the rule, we check the second self-tapping screw with a water level relative to the first.

Depending on what the level shows, we screw in or unscrew the screw, while not forgetting to check each action with a level. In the same way, we adjust the following screws, be sure to check the level between them. To markup using a water level, you will have to spend about 2 hours of your time. With laser, everything is much simpler, the whole process will take about 20 minutes.

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Ceiling plastering

Rotband plaster has the following features: it is impossible to apply more than 1.5 cm of plaster, while the second layer cannot be applied either. Such rules exist in European countries. With us, everything is much more prosaic, most often a second layer is applied up to 5 cm thick.

The principle of plastering the ceiling is the same as that of plastering walls, that is, apply plaster to the ceiling and remove excess. The solution can be applied different instrument depending on the layer thickness. If the layer thickness is less than 1.5 cm, then it is better to use a steel trowel.

Scheme of applying plaster with a crumb gun.

It is necessary to impose a small amount of the solution on it and gently smear it on the ceiling with light movements with pressure. If your layer is more than 1.5 cm, then it is better to work with a spatula. When you mix the solution, you need to remember that a solution that is too thick will be poorly applied to the ceiling and fall off under its own weight. Therefore, the solution must be made not quite thick so that it adheres better to the surface.

If the thickness of the solution is large, so-called bubbles may appear. These are places in which the mortar did not adhere to the surface of the ceiling, it sagged under its own weight, and thus an air bubble formed. Most often, such bubbles appear in the corners. To avoid this, you must first apply a thin layer of plaster, and then apply the main one. The point is that the solution adheres very well to the solution and no voids are formed.

The second layer must be applied before the first one dries to better bond the layers. If you apply a second layer after the first one has dried, then cracks may form on the surface of the plaster, and you will have to remove the entire layer so that it does not fall off later on. And with bubbles it is even easier, you need to wait until the solution dries up and remove the place of its formation with a spatula to the very base. And then put a new plaster on this place.

The plastering process is best done with your back to the window, so the light will not bother you. Removal of excess solution occurs by moving the rule or trowel towards itself. The finishing movement, on the contrary, is done from oneself, so the light from the window will allow you to see the gaps between the plaster and the rule and quickly respond to possible problems.

After applying the plaster to the main places of the surface, there may be places along the walls that have not yet been plastered, you also need to remember to unscrew the screws. They can prevent you from leveling the mortar with a rule, and after grouting they can be visible even under a layer of putty. Holes from them and places along the walls are sealed after the plaster dries. After that, we remove all beacons and close up the resulting furrows.

Such a finishing material as plaster, people use to decorate walls and ceilings. various premises for hundreds of years. , even though the appearance latest materials and technology is still relevant. Although suspended and tension structures look quite practical, aesthetically pleasing and modern, yet they “take away” part of the space, which often does small rooms even tighter.

Despite the appearance of construction market With the latest materials and technologies, stucco ceiling remains one of the most popular ways to finish a ceiling.

It is worth noting the high cost of modern finishing materials. Today, not everyone can afford to install a stretch ceiling at home. Therefore, finishing the upper floors with plaster is still the most economical option. However, today not everyone still knows how to plaster the ceiling with their own hands and what is needed for this.

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The main advantages of plastering the ceiling

Aligning the walls with plaster, although in itself it takes a lot of time and is a rather laborious process, it still has a number of advantages over other methods of finishing. Namely:

In order for the final result of the plastering of the ceiling to turn out without flaws, it is necessary to adhere to the direction scheme.

Allows you to save space - its losses are minimized, since a layer of plaster in most cases slightly lowers the level of the ceiling (no more than 3 cm).
It is one of the cheapest finishing options - the cost of materials is low and quite accessible to almost everyone. And independent will require only minimal cost(on material and tool).
It is universal - this means that the plaster mixture can be applied to any ceiling (concrete, wood, and so on). A properly selected composition of the material on any quality base will hold equally well and reliably, provided, of course, that the plastering technology is observed.

Before considering step-by-step instructions on how to plaster on your own, what is required for this and how to do it correctly, a few words should be said about the plaster itself.

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Plaster: types and applications

Plaster is a thick paste-like mixture that can be applied to the prepared surface in a small layer.

Depending on what properties it has, plaster can be quite independent view coating, and serve as a basis for further finishing.
On top of it finishing material for fine leveling, another, similar in consistency, mixture is usually applied, which is called putty.

A plaster solution is a thick paste-like mixture that must be applied to the surface in a thin layer.

Plaster is usually divided into two main types:

1. Gypsum-based material.
2. Material based on cement.

The cost of the second type of plaster is slightly lower than the first. However, if the price of the material is not so important, it is better to use a gypsum-based mixture for plastering. And here are the reasons. First, with gypsum plaster it is much easier and more convenient to work with than with the one based on cement. This is due to the fact that such a mixture has a finer dispersion, due to which the coating is more even and of high quality. When finishing the ceiling with such plaster, it is quite possible to do without applying putty. In addition, gypsum has excellent insulating properties, which can make the indoor climate more favorable.

However, to plaster the ceiling, one mixture is not enough. Will need more special tools, which can be purchased at the same hardware store or borrowed from friends or relatives for a while.

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What is required to finish the ceiling with plaster

To plaster the ceiling, you will need: a gypsum-based mixture, a primer, a spatula, a level, a wide brush, etc.

You will need the following materials and tools:

Plaster mixture (dry) based on gypsum or cement.

Deep penetration primer (preferably with an antiseptic).

Slow-speed drill with any mixing attachment or rotary hammer.

Capacity.

Sieve.

Trowel (a spatula with a handle on top).

Level.

aluminum rule.

Beacons.

Wide brush.

Bucket with water.

Rags.

Large sandpaper.

Protective accessories (goggles and gloves).

When everything is bought and prepared, you can proceed directly to work. In order to properly finish the ceiling with a pasty mixture, it is necessary to follow certain rules and sequence of work. They are quite simple, so even a novice in this business can cope with finishing the ceiling with plaster.

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The main stages of finishing the ceiling with plaster

Before starting plastering, it is necessary to thoroughly clean the ceiling from past finishes.

Before applying the plaster mixture to the ceiling, its surface must first be carefully prepared: cleaned of all kinds of contaminants and dried. On a clean, dry ceiling with a wide brush, it is necessary to apply a primer with an antiseptic, which will protect it from the appearance of fungi and mold and allow the mixture to better adhere to the surface.

Important! If the ceiling was simply covered with whitewash, then it should be washed out with a rag soaked in warm water. If the overlay has been covered with paint, it must be removed mechanically or with special chemicals. If it was pasted over with wallpaper, then they should be removed, having previously moistened with plenty of warm water. On the wooden ceiling before applying the plaster should be stuffed with strips. If the surface of the ceiling is too smooth, then for better adhesion of the material to the overlap, it is better to roughen the latter. To do this, you need to apply small notches.

To get a perfectly flat, aesthetically pleasing ceiling, you need to level it. plaster mixture on beacons using an aluminum rule. Do not use a tool that is too long (the longest optimal size 1.5 m), as this may create some inconvenience in operation. Installation of beacons is carried out as follows.

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Installation of beacons

Before applying the plaster, it is necessary to install beacons so that the ceiling is perfectly even.

On a slab, a level determines the lowest point from which a straight line is drawn from one edge of the surface to the other. Then, a densely mixed mixture should be applied to this very line with an interval of about 8-15 cm. The extreme beacons must be set in such a way that a small gap (about 10 cm) remains between them and the wall. This is necessary in order to make it convenient to work with the rule and remove excess plaster mixture with it.

The remaining beacons should be set parallel to the first at a distance of about 1 m from each other. Each subsequent of them must be set so that one edge of the level lies on the already installed beacon, and the other on the one that is just being set. After installing all the beacons, it is necessary to wait some time for the mixture to harden and securely strengthen all the rails.

The first thing a person usually pays attention to when entering an apartment is the walls and ceiling. If still small defects on the walls you can somehow hide it, then it is difficult to hide cracks and roughness on the ceiling. Despite the popularity suspended ceilings, plaster remains the simplest and in an economical way finishes.

Plaster or putty

Questions often arise: what is the difference between puttying and plastering, and is it necessary to putty the ceiling for painting? The purpose of puttying is to level the surfaces of walls, ceilings or window slopes. It is most often used to eliminate small cracks and has the form of a special pasty mass. Another function of putty is to prepare a perfectly smooth and even surface.

The composition of the plaster is completely different. This composition can be applied to surfaces made of bricks, foam blocks, concrete. The main difference between plaster and putty is the grain size. The structure of putty is fine-grained, while plasters are coarse-grained. The maximum layer of plaster is 50mm, while putty cannot be applied in a thick layer.. Drying speed is another factor in which plastering and puttying differ. Obviously, a thick layer dries more slowly than a thin one.

Puttying alone will not eliminate major defects in the ceiling surface.

In this way, plaster is used for rough surface finishing. (Except when applying the finishing decorative plaster on the ceiling.) This is an intermediate treatment of walls or ceilings, while putty can be finishing or starting. Puttying is done after plastering and applying a primer.

When is it better to putty, and when to plaster the ceiling for painting

If the surfaces contain small defects, then they can be corrected with putty. But if you need to level the surface or eliminate gross defects, you can’t do without plaster. Plaster forms a rough surface, while putty forms a smooth one.

Work technology

Not required to hire construction team to eliminate defects in the ceiling, it is quite possible to do it yourself.

Materials and tools

To perform the work, you must purchase the following set of materials and tools:

metal spatulas;
containers for 15-20 l;
brushes or rollers for subsequent priming;
skin for grinding the surface;
construction mixer or drill with a mixing nozzle;
trowels;
dry plaster;
primer;
putty.

Surface preparation

Before the procedure of plastering the ceiling for painting, the surface should be carefully prepared.

The preparatory stage includes the following procedures:

cleaning the ceiling from old trim elements;
removal of any irregularities;
processing of the joint between tile joints;
removing old paint.

If there are pockets of fungus damage on the ceiling, which spoils appearance and harmful to health, they must treat with a solution of copper sulfate (at the rate of 5 grams per 1 liter of water).

The ceiling is cleaned with a special scraper or spatula. Both wet and dry paint can be easily removed. In order to clean the ceiling faster and more efficiently, it is recommended to moisten the surface, after which it should be washed thoroughly.

After all the preparatory operations, after waiting for the surface to dry completely, you can proceed to the next step.

Methods and ways of working

Before plastering the ceiling for painting to increase the level of adhesion (adhesion of the solution to the surface) two coats are recommended. In the main areas, this can be done with a roller, and in hard-to-reach areas it is better and more convenient to use a brush. While the primer dries, you can prepare the solution.

Machine plastering will significantly reduce the time spent, but it is applicable only on large areas.

Solution preparation

On the packaging of the dry mixture, the manufacturer indicates the preparation procedure and the proportions of the solution.

The algorithm of actions is as follows:

pour water into a prepared container;
pour dry mixture into water;
mix the solution with a drill or construction mixer;
let the solution settle for 5-10 minutes;
stir the solution again for homogeneity.

Can be purchased ready solution in a hardware store, you can do it yourself. Most often, gypsum plaster is used to level the ceiling. trademark Rotband.

Depending on the type of solution, the consumption of a self-prepared mixture is different. Approximately the rate of the amount of mortar per 1 m2 for plastering ceilings can be calculated from the tables.

Plaster consumption per 1 m2 when leveling ceilingscalcareous- cement mortars (mortar composition: 1 part cement: 1 part lime: 6 parts sand)

Plaster consumption per 1 m2 when leveling ceilingscalcareous- cement mortars (mortar composition: 1 part cement: 2 parts lime: 5 parts sand)

When preparing a solution with your own hands, it is important to take into account the correct ratio of components.

Dry mixes for plastering the ceiling have the most diverse composition and many subtleties of their intended purpose. Therefore, you need to carefully study the manufacturer's recommendations for the use of a particular mixture.

Once the primer has dried, you can proceed to plastering the ceilings. If there are depressions on the surface, they should be lined with reinforcing mesh. If the surface is flat, there is no need to use sickle.

Installation of beacons

When plastering beacons are usually installed, which is the most crucial moment. If the beacons are fixed correctly, in the end you will get the most even plastered surface. Therefore, it is important that the entire technological sequence of leveling the surface along the beacons is observed.

The process of installing beacons is not difficult, but requires accuracy.

It is as follows:

with the help of a paint cord, a zero mark is marked on the walls;
it is necessary to determine the location of the lowest point on the ceiling, where the first beacon should be fixed;
apply stamps every 30 cm;
fix the rest of the beacons.

It should be noted that the maximum thickness of the future plaster layer should not exceed 50mm, so the height of the installed beacons should not exceed this value. To control the correct installation of beacons in a horizontal plane, it is recommended to use a two-meter level.

Finishing work

If several layers are to be applied, it must be taken into account that the subsequent layer gypsum mortar applied 20-25 minutes after the first application, cement mortar- after 2 hours, calcareous - after it dries a little and turns white.

For plastering ceilings for painting, you need:

scooping up the mixture with a trowel or trowel, throw it on the ceiling;
apply the next layer after the previous one dries;
remove beacons;
level the surface using the rule, sealing internal corners and places; joining the ceiling and wall;
wipe the dried surface with sandpaper.

To obtain a perfectly smooth surface after complete drying, it is recommended to putty, which is finishing before painting the ceiling. To decorate the ceiling, it is important to have a smooth and even surface.. If a flat surface is easy to obtain as a result of plastering, then it acquires smoothness only as a result of puttying, which is an important factor for subsequent painting. In this case, a painted and even ceiling will be a harmonious continuation interior design. The principle of putty work is almost the same as the principle of plastering.

Properly performed work makes it possible to forget about plastering the ceiling for many years.

When working with lime plaster eyes and hands should be protected

do not remove whitewash or putty from the surface;
it is recommended to use a "betokontakt" type primer, which significantly increases the level of adhesion;
if the layer thickness exceeds 50 mm or if there are irregularities, it is necessary to use a reinforcing mesh.

Price

Price for work excluding materials manually averages from 450 rubles. for 1m2. Machine plastering of the ceiling is somewhat cheaper and will cost from 350 rubles. for 1m2. The cost of plastering the ceiling with your own hands, of course, is lower. But if there is no confidence in your own competence, it is better to turn to the masters.

You can see more about plastering the ceiling in the video:

The first impression of the interior is formed on the basis of the ceiling. This is what people look at as soon as they enter your home. Today there are many options for surface design - decoration, hanging or stretch ceiling etc., but the plaster still remains relevant.

Ceiling leveling

First of all, the ceiling must be inspected for irregularities. The number and size of dents, holes, cracks and humps should be determined. In order for these defects not to manifest themselves in the end, it is necessary to level the surface. Finishing can be completely different - painting, puttying or any other processing.

Alignment methods

Do-it-yourself plastering of ceilings should be carried out in compliance with the recommendations of professionals. So, builders share two alignment methods - wet and dry. The first implies the use of various mixtures and solutions with which the ceiling is leveled. The second way is to use different plates (drywall, PVC and others).

How to plaster the ceiling with your own hands in this case? It all depends on personal preference, but there are also rules according to which one can evaluate the reality of an alignment in one way or another. If the height differences on the ceiling exceed 5 cm, then it is better to choose drywall to level such a surface. Plaster of this thickness poses a serious danger, since with some violations in the process of its application, it is quite possible that the layers will peel off, which is fraught with bodily harm to residents.

If the ceiling does not have such strong irregularities, then plaster can be used to level the surface. However, in order to obtain good quality When painting, the surface does not have to be flat, instead it should be smooth. But, whatever one may say, the evenness of the surface is one of the aspects of aesthetic beauty.

Materials used

Plastering the ceiling with your own hands is possible using mixtures based on cement or gypsum. Plasters on gypsum are considered more environmentally friendly, they dry more quickly and generate less dust. Cement mixtures are much cheaper. Due to the difference in performance properties, these two types of plasters are used for various works. So, gypsum is recommended for interior decoration, cement - for external.

How to plaster the ceiling with your own hands?

Plastering ceilings with your own hands requires the following tools:

container for diluting plaster. The capacity must be large;
drill with mixing attachment building mixtures. Power not less than 600 W;
trowel and a set of spatulas;
rule, grater;
brush and roller for applying primer.

If you do not know what some instruments look like, then you can find their photos on the Internet.

Preparatory work

Before proceeding, it is necessary to bring it into proper condition. The surface must be specially prepared. To do this, remove a layer of old plaster or paint with a sharp spatula. If necessary, in the process of performing this procedure, the tool can be sharpened.

If the ceiling was covered with lime, then it is moistened plain water. To make it easier to remove water-based paint from the surface, a little iodine is added to the water. Water-dispersion paints are removed using special washes.

In addition to paint, all poorly adhering pieces of plaster are removed, as well as, if possible, all irregularities. In addition, it is necessary to get rid of the plaster at the joints of the plates. To do this, use a hammer or spatula. Remove only that plaster that breaks off without effort or has already moved away from the plate itself.

Without fail, the surface is checked for the presence of fungus, especially if the room has humidity above normal. To remove it, the infected areas can be treated blue vitriol. If the fungus has struck large area, then it is necessary to split upper layer surface, and process the area itself with a burner flame.

After all the above procedures are completed, and the surface itself is cleaned, it is treated with a deep penetration primer. Smooth sections of the ceiling are treated with a roller, the rest with a brush.

Plaster and putty

To avoid confusion, it is necessary to distinguish between these two similar concepts. Putty is the final stage of work immediately before finishing the ceiling. The thickness of the resulting coating should not exceed 3 mm. Performed using a fine mixture and gypsum.

Plastering is carried out using coarse mixtures based on gypsum or cement. The purpose of this treatment is to level the surface. First, the surfaces are leveled with plaster and only then they are covered with putty.

Preparation of mixtures and their application

This procedure is quite simple when following the manufacturer's recommendations. General rules, regardless of the type of mixture:

water is poured into the dilution container;
dry mixture is added there in the proportions indicated in the instructions;
the resulting substance is mixed construction mixer or a drill with a special nozzle;
after obtaining the required density, the mixture is settled;
after that it is mixed again.

The mixture is applied to the ceiling with a spatula. In this case, a plastic spatula is used for application, and a metal one for leveling. You can also use a trowel - this is a special trowel with a curved handle. After the plaster is applied to the ceiling, it is leveled.

Plastering the ceiling on lighthouses, details on the video:

Ceiling leveling options

Despite its simplicity, the task of leveling the ceiling with plaster can be divided into several independent operations. The fact is that all ceilings are different, and therefore the problem of surface treatment in each individual case is unique in its own way.

Fairly flat ceiling

In such a situation, after the primer is applied, small holes and cracks are sealed. To do this, they are entered with a spatula ready mix and align. In this case, different situations may arise. If the ceiling is not even, then the general plaster will have to be applied throughout the ceiling.

If the defects are large and it is necessary to use a large amount of plaster, then grid laying is used. For this, a paint grid is taken or, in other words, a sickle and attached to the ceiling. The material is very similar to gauze, but at its core is a reinforcing mesh. After it is fixed, a layer of plaster is applied. Such sickle is used when the thickness of the plaster layer exceeds 10 mm.

wooden ceiling

Such surfaces require special preparation. A thin layer of plaster simply cannot level the ceiling. In addition, if people are expected to move on the second floor or attic, the floor will sag, which will cause the plaster to peel off. Therefore, it is applied on a grid or shingles are used.

Stuff it in two layers, which are placed at an angle:

the first layer consists of a thin and uneven shingles up to 5 mm thick. It is nailed at an angle of 45 degrees, while the step between the slats is 5 cm;
the second is stuffed from rails with a flat front surface at an angle of 90 degrees to the first row. Thus, cells of 5-10 cm in size are formed on the ceiling.