Ceiling made of PVC (plastic) panels: step by step instructions. How to make a ceiling in a bathroom from plastic panels with your own hands Installing a ceiling in a bathroom from plastic panels

The plastic ceiling in the bathroom is a practical solution for decorating this room. It allows not only to create an atmosphere of cleanliness and comfort, but also to make the bathroom truly modern and respectable. All these benefits can be obtained for relatively little money.

Plastic is a fairly durable and moisture resistant material. These two parameters determine all its main advantages. Bathroom - a room in which the level of humidity is periodically increased. Therefore, the main requirement for the finishing material is resistance to moisture. Plastic meets him fully.

In the bathroom, strong blows to the ceiling are unlikely, so there is no need to install high-strength cladding elements. Plastic will successfully cope with the mechanical impact of a household level, expressed in accidental blows with a hand or some object.

Another advantage of such a ceiling is the simplicity and ease of maintenance. The glossy surface of the plastic is fogged and moistened under the influence of steam, so small particles of perfume or cosmetics, cleaning products, dust and dirt rising up can settle on it. In order to get rid of stains, it is enough to wipe the plastic ceiling with a dry or damp cloth.

These designs are also good because they can be quickly and easily mounted. The light weight of the plastic ensures the convenience of work, pliability for processing does not require powerful and expensive tools.

What to make a plastic ceiling in the bathroom

There are several options for installing a plastic ceiling in the bathroom. For this purpose, you can use the following materials:

• PVC panels;
• plastic lining;
• plastic rails.

In order to choose the most suitable material in a particular case, it is recommended to familiarize yourself with the features, pros and cons of each.

Material Features	PVC panels	Plastic lining	Plastic slats
Color palette	All shades of primary colors, a wide range of patterns	Predominantly natural wood imitation and solid colors	plain
Surface type	Flat, matte, glossy	Flat and embossed, matte and glossy	flat, glossy
Type of panel connection	tenon groove	tenon groove	Gapless and gapless connection

All these materials require a frame device, but in each case there are some nuances of its installation and assembly. Step-by-step instructions for their installation will help to understand the features of the device of plastic ceilings.

plastic lining for the bathroom

How to make a ceiling in the bathroom from PVC panels

Materials:

• wooden bars with a section of 30x40 mm;
• self-tapping screws 50-55 mm long;
• plastic dowels 55-60 mm long;
• starting PVC profile;
• PVC panels;
• liquid Nails.

Tools:

• drills for wood and concrete with a diameter of 6 mm;
• drill;
• roulette;
• level;
• construction stapler;
• 6 mm hardened steel staples;
• angle grinder (grinder);
• cutting disc for metal 1.5-2 mm thick;
• crown for drilling round holes (the diameter must match the diameter of the recessed luminaire).

The use of a metal profile for a frame device is irrational for the reason that it is unstable to moisture. Therefore, in places of scratches and dents, corrosion may appear. Wooden blocks are able to absorb moisture, but are "breathable" material, so excess water evaporates. In order to ensure the protection of wood, it must be coated with a special impregnation that increases the degree of moisture resistance of this material.

If the installation of recessed luminaires is planned, the distance from the base surface should exceed the height of the luminaire body by 2-3 cm.

Stages of work

Step 1. Marking the level of a suspended plastic ceiling.

At this stage of the work, it is necessary to draw even horizontal lines along the perimeter of the walls, retreating the distance required for installing fixtures from the base ceiling.

An important point: if the walls of the bathroom are tiled, you do not need to mark the level of the false ceiling. It is necessary to focus on the line of the upper edge of the tile. Otherwise, visual defects such as a skewed ceiling or plaster gaps between it and the tile are possible.

Step 2. Preparing wooden blocks for installation on walls.

• the bars are treated with a moisture-repellent compound (Holzprotektor impregnation, Neomid primer, antiseptic Pinotex Ultra Antiseptic, etc.);
• withstand the time for drying the composition according to the instructions of its manufacturer;
• holes are drilled in the bars with a diameter of 6 mm in increments of 40-50 cm.

Step 3. Forming holes in the walls of the bathroom.

Wooden bars are applied to the walls and holes are drilled for dowels. The most convenient way to do this is with a puncher and a drill with a diameter of 6 mm.

If the ceiling level line runs along the tile, holes are drilled in the tile joints. They do it like this:

• install a drill, in the middle of which there is a sharp cone-shaped tip;
• drill to the thickness of the tile;
• change the drill to one that matches the material of the wall (most often it is a drill with a winning solder).

Step 4 Installing the dowels.

With the help of light hammer blows, dowels are driven through wooden blocks.

Step 5. Installation of wooden bars.

Self-tapping screws are screwed into the dowels, thereby fixing the bars to the walls of the bathroom.

Step 6. Installation of longitudinal beams.

For the device of the frame, it is necessary to install crossbars located along the long walls of the room. Depending on the width of the bathroom, you will need from 2 bars. The crossbars are installed at a distance of 40-50 cm from each other. Their ends are laid directly on the wall bars.

Step 7. Installation of transverse auxiliary bars.

On the walls opposite the longitudinal beams, segments of bars 20-25 cm long are attached. They should be located at a distance of 50-60 cm from each other. These bars with one of their ends should rest on wall guides.

Step 8. Mounting the cross beams.

Bars of the same section are attached to the auxiliary bars from below. They form the cross beams of the frame. If the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe room is large, the intersections of the frame beams are reinforced with metal corners.

Wooden crate - photo

Step 9. Installation of the starting profile.

With the help of a stapler and steel brackets, the starting profile is attached to the wall guides so that a long profile shelf adjoins directly to the bars. Thus, three walls are sheathed. The fourth should remain without a profile. And this should be one of the walls towards which PVC panels will be installed. This precaution is due to the fact that the last (fourth) starting profile will be fixed together with the last panel. This will ensure a neat appearance of the plastic ceiling.

Step 10 Trimming the first panel.

Before installing the first panel, its narrow front lock strip is cut off from it. This process can be done in two ways:

• using a grinder and a cutting disc (in order for the cut to be neat, you do not need to press the tool against the panel during operation);
• using a sharp knife-cutter (experience in cutting plastic panels in this way is desirable).

Step 11. Cutting plastic panels.

Procedure:

• using a tape measure, measure the distance from wall to wall (in the direction of installation of the panels);
• measure the same distance on the PVC panel;
• put a mark with a pencil;
• measure 1 cm so that the panel becomes shorter;
• using a metal or wooden square, draw a line perpendicular to the long sides of the panel;
• grinder with a circle cut the panel along the drawn line;
• cut all panels in the same way.

Step 12. Installing the first panel.

The panel is brought into the starting profile so that its part completely enters the recess of the bar. If the panel is long, it must be supported to prevent sagging. If this is necessary, it is recommended to invite an assistant.

Step 13 Attaching the First Panel.

The first PVC panel is attached to the frame at its intersection with wooden bars. This task is performed using a battery-powered screwdriver and wood screws 2-2.5 cm long.

It is not recommended to use a stapler and staples to fix the panels. The reason is that the panel is a relatively hollow material with rather soft stiffeners. Therefore, when fastened with a stapler, dents and cracks may appear on it.

Step 13. Drilling holes for the fixtures.

Procedure:

• after installing several panels, holes are drilled in the right places for the lamps, which are prepared in advance by attaching wires to them;
• if 4 lighting points should be located along one panel, then 20-45 cm recede from perpendicularly located walls and install the first two lamps;
• then the distance between these two points is divided by 3 and the corresponding marks are placed on the panels;
• drill round holes in these places;
• install two more lamps;
• wires are led out of the panels and over them.

If it is not possible to use a crown, holes can be cut with a screwdriver and a thin drill. In this case, put the lamp on the panel and draw it. Turn on the tool, insert the drill into the inner part of the circle, lead the drill along the pencil line. In this way, a cut with relatively uneven edges is obtained. But do not worry: they will be covered by the decorative lower part of the lamp.

Step 14. Connecting recessed fixtures to electrical wiring(performed at the final stage of the panel set).

Step 15 Mounting the last panel.

• if the width of the panel exceeds the width of the gap between the plastic ceiling and the wall, cut off the excess part;
• a starting profile is inserted along the cut edge;
• apply liquid nails to a wooden frame;
• install the cut panel, sliding it to the side free from the starting profile into the panel already installed on the ceiling;
• press the panel against the bar and hold it in this position for 10-15 seconds.

Plastic ceiling in the form of a blue sky with clouds

How to make a ceiling in the bathroom from plastic lining

Installation of a ceiling made of plastic lining is in many ways similar to assembling a ceiling made of PVC panels. But since the lining is considered a heavier material, they mount not a wooden frame, but a metal frame.

In this regard, the relevant requirements for a set of tools: it must contain metal shears for cutting a metal profile. As a wall profile, guides PN 28/27 are used, for the base of the frame - a ceiling profile PP 60/27. The slats of the frame are attached to the base ceiling with the help of suspensions - thin metal plates with perforations along the edges.

Correct cutting of metal profile:

• measure the distance from wall to wall;
• measure this distance on the profile;
• put a mark with a pencil;
• with scissors for metal, alternately cut the side shelves of the profile;
• bend the profile at the incision site;
• cut along the formed fold line.

After cutting the strips, do the following:

• beat off the level of the ceiling;
• put marks in the places of attachment of the wall profile strips (in increments of 50-60 cm);
• drill holes in the profile and walls;
• install dowels;
• fix the profile;
• carry out the assembly of the frame (mount the longitudinal and transverse strips).

Proceed to the installation of suspensions:

• mark on the ceiling the fixation points of the suspensions (they should be located along the lines of the frame slats);
• drill holes in the ceiling;

Suspended ceiling in the bathroom

Installing a slatted ceiling is a quick and effective way to design a bathroom. Most manufacturers of this finishing material offer ready-made kits for rooms of standard sizes. For example, 1.7x1.7 m and 1.35x0.9 m. If the bathroom has other dimensions, they will need to be reported to the seller of the outlet, who will select the optimal configuration for the rack ceiling.

But the first thing to do is to decide on the appearance of the finish. The fact is that manufacturers offer two types of rack ceilings: closed (slotless) and open (slotted) type. Thanks to the "speaking" names of these options for the ceiling device, it is easy to understand that in the first case the canvas will be continuous, in the second - with gaps between the panels.

Another nuance: you need to choose the design of the panels. The most popular are French and German. They differ in the profile of the panels. In French it is rounded, in German it is strictly rectangular. Therefore, when choosing a French design and a closed installation method, small indentations will be noticeable on the ceiling. Due to the play of light and shadow, they will give it a special appeal. If you need a strict and concise design, you need to choose German.

The rack ceiling frame is mounted not from wooden bars and metal profiles, but with the help of components:

• U-shaped profile (for wall guides);
• stringers (for longitudinal and transverse strips).

The installation of a rack ceiling is carried out by going through all the steps in turn, listed in the instructions for installing a plastic ceiling made of PVC panels. The assembly of the rails is carried out not in the same way as in the case of PVC panels and clapboard (by the “thorn-groove” fixing method), but by snapping into special recesses in the frame slats (stringers). Docking panels along the length is carried out using an H-shaped profile.

Rack ceiling - photo

Video - Installation of a ceiling in a bathroom made of plastic lining (PVC panels)

For a modern person, the bathroom is a kind of cult space, this is especially noticeable for residents of city apartments. We spend a lot of time in the bathroom. Daily water procedures become a kind of ritual for us, and here the main aspects of operation are cleanliness and comfort level in the bathroom. Such indicators can be achieved only if the interior decoration of the bathroom meets the special conditions that are typical for this room.

Given the high humidity, which is an essential condition for the operation of this type of premises, panels, floors and ceilings are made of materials that are resistant to constant moisture. Ceramic coatings used for wall and floor cladding are not always suitable for ceilings. For this purpose, it is better to use plastic, which will make bathroom ceiling panels beautiful, stable and durable. Why plastic in this case becomes the best finishing option and how to make such a design yourself, we will consider in more detail.

What is the difference between the ceiling in the bathroom

Among all the rooms that are present in our apartment or house, the bathroom is in the most extreme conditions. High levels of humidity and frequent use put forward special requirements not only for the condition of the interior decoration of bathrooms, but also for their cleaning. Interior decoration elements must successfully withstand moisture, be practical and easy to maintain. The choice of design options in this case is not as wide as we would like. As for the ceiling part, here plastic panels on the ceiling in the bathroom become almost the only solution.

On a note: moisture-resistant drywall, painted with acrylic or silicate paint, is not suitable for these purposes.

Especially when it is necessary to obtain a durable, beautiful and moisture-resistant ceiling structure. Ceilings in the bathroom play not only an aesthetic role, but also carry a large technological load. For premises of this type, the installation of ceiling lighting fixtures and forced ventilation elements becomes a prerequisite for operation. Ceiling structures to be installed in the bathroom must meet the following requirements:

• first and foremost, the material from which the ceiling is made must be able to withstand the effects of moisture, including the presence of 100% humidity (warm steam, water spray);
• strength and resistance of the structure to moisture both from below and from above (direct contact with the aquatic environment);
• ceiling surfaces in the bathroom should be made taking into account the need for constant care for them (washing, cleaning and disinfection);
• high manufacturability of the design and the presence of aesthetic content.

All of these requirements are met by the design option when you have a ceiling in the bathroom made of plastic panels. This material allows you to solve the goals and objectives in a comprehensive manner.

Important! The internal surfaces in the shower room, in the bathroom are subject to constant cleaning and cleaning with the use of antibacterial and detergents containing aggressive chemical components.

The main advantages of plastic How should the material be chosen?

If plastic panels are not always suitable for finishing other rooms, then for a humid and warm room such material is a real find. The structure of the plastic is inert to moisture and is able to withstand minor mechanical loads. Do not forget about the cost of PVC finishing materials. Compared to other finishes, repairing the ceiling in your bathroom with plastic panels will cost several times cheaper.

Other advantages of this finishing option include the following aspects:

• plastic, unlike drywall, does not swell or dry out, constantly retaining its original structure and shape;
• hygienic coatings. Mold and fungal formations will never appear on PVC panels;
• good reflectivity of PVC panels, which allows you to create a visual effect of increasing space;
• a variety of finished products used for the installation of ceiling structures;
• quick and easy installation of ceiling structures.

Knowing the advantages of plastic finishing materials, you should carefully consider the choice of materials for the future decoration of the ceiling in the bathroom.

Choosing material for work

Today, the domestic industry and foreign companies - suppliers offer consumers a fairly wide choice of plastic finishing materials. You can always accurately select the desired color that matches the overall tone of the interior decoration of the bathroom. If you wish, you can opt for plain products or make the ceiling in your own bathroom from panels with a pattern or with a certain texture.

Depending on the design features of the room and the design of the ceiling, plastic panels of different sizes are used. Traditionally, plastic is produced in the form of long panels, the length of which is 2.6 - 2.7 and 3 meters. The width of the products at the same time varies in the range of 240-375 mm, which is very convenient for finishing rooms of various sizes and heights. The panels are 8 or 10 cm thick.

On a note: narrow slats are ideal for small bathrooms with low ceilings. For bathrooms of a large area and with high ceilings, wide plastic panels will look good.

Installation of plastic ceiling surfaces in the bathroom

Before you start working with ceilings in your own bathroom, you need to prepare a rough surface. It’s good when you already have a plan for the placement of fixtures and exhaust ventilation at hand, there is a sketch or outline of the future design. Making edits already during installation is a rather problematic task. You must clearly know how many panels to use and in what order the structure will be installed.

The panel ceiling in the bathroom must be done, knowing exactly all the measurements and parameters. It will be very useful to come to the store with a ready-made working sketch and a tape measure in order to choose the optimal dimensions of the plastic panels. Trimming during the installation process is inevitable, but you don’t really need extra material. The lack of panels at the final stage of work will also be unpleasant.

Note: the length and number of aluminum profiles used to equip the frame of the future ceiling are measured in the same way.

From the tools for work you will need:

• drill or perforator;
• crown for mounting lamps;
• building level;
• screwdriver or screwdriver;
• hacksaw for drywall or plastic;
• mounting knife;
• liquid Nails.

Almost all of the listed tools are freely available and often available in one's own household.

Features of the installation of ceilings in a plastic bathroom

For those who have an idea about finishing work and are familiar with the installation of suspended ceiling structures, there should not be any particular difficulties. The main thing is to follow the technology and sequence of actions. To make a plastic ceiling in the bathroom on your own and with your own hands today is possible and realistic.

For reference: Comparing the design of plastic ceilings with the variant of the design of the plasterboard ceiling, we can say the following - working with plastic in this regard is easier and less laborious.

The main condition on which the effectiveness of the work depends is the correct location of the frame guides and the precisely calculated number of profiles for the future frame. Plasterboard false ceiling requires the creation of a solid and massive frame with a large number of profiles, then a lightweight version is suitable with plastic panels.

On a note: if there are tiles on the walls in the bathroom, the ceiling level can be beaten off with a regular tape measure without using the level.

The beginning of the installation comes down to determining the desired distance from the rough surface. As a rule, for prefabricated structures, such a distance does not exceed 7-10 cm. We orient ourselves along the tile seam closest to the ceiling surface and set aside the required distance.

Important! It is advisable to make a future suspended structure at a distance of 5-10 from the nearest horizontal seam. In this case, the tile and plastic ceiling will look harmonious.

We make marks for the future lower edge of the new ceiling in increments of 40-50 cm around the entire perimeter of the bathroom.

Making a frame

After the marking work, the direct installation of the guides begins. Aluminum profiles are placed on the basis of your marks and attached to the panels with self-tapping screws.

On a note: if your tile is laid on plastic mounting crosses with a line width of 1-2.5 mm, then the guides can be mounted without drilling holes in the tile. Self-tapping screws in this situation are screwed directly into the body of the seam.

From a practical point of view, the installation of the frame is simplified due to the ease of the future ceiling structure. To achieve the required strength of the frame, this method of attaching profiles is quite suitable.

As soon as guide profiles are installed around the perimeter of the bathroom, you can start laying the stiffeners. This frame element is an important component that ultimately ensures the strength and stability of the entire stacking structure. Stiffeners or load-bearing profiles are attached to the rough surface with U-shaped brackets. It should be said that the need to install stiffeners arises when installation is carried out in large rooms. For small apartments, where the average bathroom is 1.5 x 2.5 meters, there is no such need. Plastic panels have sufficient rigidity to independently withstand the created load.

Laying plastic panels

After the installation of the frame, we begin work on laying the panels. It all starts from the starting profile. By observing the sequence of laying, it is possible to achieve an exact fit of the cut pieces of plastic to each other. The starting profile is attached to a regular profile using texes.

Which plastic panels will be best for your bathroom on the ceiling, wide or narrow, you decide. Starting from the starting profile, the entire ceiling is gradually laid, panel by panel. Each piece fits into the existing groove of the previous piece. At the end of the work, when laying the last piece of plastic, the starting profile is not required.

The set is carried out to the very last guide. Try to make sure that the last panel, which is likely to be cut along the entire length, is located at the far wall.

Conclusion

Laying plastic ceilings in the bathroom is an interesting activity. All work is built on a clear sequence of actions. Each measured piece of plastic is stacked behind the previous one. Holes are made in the plastic at the installation site of the fixtures. A regular mounting knife will easily make a hole of the desired diameter. Having installed the lamp, we continue to set the structure further and do this in each case, installing the lamp. Having reached the old wiring, we connect new lighting fixtures. The connection can be parallel or series, depending on the functionality of the existing wiring and the number of fixtures in your bathroom.

Before installing and fixing the last panel, check the operability of lighting equipment and ventilation. The end of the work will be the installation of the last plastic panel.

Plastic has many supporters and no less opponents. But if you need an inexpensive, quickly mounted and attractive finish, then one of the most popular options is plastic panels. Every year their range is increasing. There are plain, striped, checkered, with flowers and floral elements, imitating brickwork, natural stones, etc. Of all this variety, the ceiling of plastic panels is usually made plain. And most often - white or very close to it - with a slight shade, such as "baked milk", ecru, ivory, etc.

According to the type of surface, they can be glossy or matte. There are collections with a rough surface - for those who prefer original solutions. Also available with glitter inserts. But since the ceiling of plastic panels is almost always made in technical rooms - kitchen, bathroom, toilet, on the balcony - small, as a rule, sizes make you choose a glossy surface: it visually raises the ceiling, and due to reflection, the room seems more spacious. Also, the reflections on the ceiling increase the illumination - with a matte ceiling, you need to take more lamps or increase their power.

Harmful or not

You can often hear that there is no place for plastic in the house. Maybe, but plastic is almost everywhere. They even pack goods into it, we have many products in the kitchen and in the bathroom also made of plastic. PVC panels are made from the same group of plastics as syringes and food containers. What is nice is that this material does not have pores in which bacteria and other microorganisms can settle. If there is a nutrient medium on the surface and conditions are favorable, they will multiply, but they can be removed with one movement of a rag dipped in soapy water or a disinfectant solution. Plastic panels are really hygienic. Evidence can be considered the fact that the sanitary station allows them to decorate medical institutions.

There are plastic mirror panels or with mirror parts - stripes

The second point that stops many is the flammability of plastics. They really are on fire. They begin to maintain a flame at a temperature of + 360 ° C. For comparison: and fiberboard, start to burn at +250°C. If we compare these materials in terms of the amount of smoke emitted, then plastics emit 40-50% less smoke.

Another argument: the ceiling of plastic panels does not breathe. If you live in a private house, and you have a ventilated attic above, air exchange is important. If you live in a high-rise building, you still need to equip a ventilation system, which is a must in both the kitchen and the bathroom with a toilet. And to prevent condensation from accumulating behind the ceiling, build a pair of ventilation grilles into the ceiling in opposite corners. Although, the ceiling is still leaky and with sufficient air exchange, no problems arise.

Types of plastic ceiling panels

All PVC panels are divided into two categories: wall and ceiling. They differ in rigidity and weight: mechanical strength is unimportant on the ceiling, therefore the material is made lightweight, with thin walls. You need to handle them carefully: you can even crush them with two fingers. Is it possible to mount wall panels on the ceiling. It is possible, but they are more expensive, and their higher strength is unclaimed. In addition, they are heavier, because the load on the frame will be slightly increased (if any) and this must be taken into account when installing it.

Now about the dimensions of the panels and the types of their surfaces. There is a material whose appearance resembles a lining: the same strips, only made of plastic. The ceiling of such panels is also called slatted because the surface is very similar in appearance.

An almost flat, crack-free surface, with hardly distinguishable joints, is obtained from seamless plastic panels. The joints of such panels are almost imperceptible: the front surface is flat and smooth, and on the sides there is a spike and a groove, as on a conventional lining, with which the skin is assembled.

There is also sheet plastic. It is more difficult to work with it and it is used little: it is necessary if columns or other non-linear surfaces are trimmed, and it is more convenient to assemble the ceiling from rails.

The advantages of ceilings made of plastic panels include the ease of care for them: almost any contamination is washed off with warm soapy water. The appearance remains unchanged for about 5-10 years - it depends on the quality of the plastic.

How to make a ceiling from plastic panels

When buying PVC rails, you will also need finishing profiles - moldings - with the help of which the ends and joints are formed. Their choice depends on the configuration of your room and on how exactly you are going to make the ceiling. There are two options: make a false ceiling or attach plastic directly to the main one.

Suspended ceiling made of plastic panels

On the one hand, a suspended ceiling allows you to covertly lay communications without chasing the walls. On the other hand, it "eats" some height. It will take a minimum of 3 cm. But this is if the lamps are installed ordinary, and not built-in. To install a built-in lamp, the false ceiling must be lowered from the main one by 8-12 cm. You will not find smaller lamps, except for furniture or LED ones. If you put them in sufficient quantities and separately illuminate the mirror, then the illumination should be enough.

Assembling the frame

When installing a false ceiling, a frame is assembled from guides. Most often, profiles are used to work with drywall. If you are doing the ceiling in the bathroom or in the kitchen, take galvanized profiles and fasteners. In drier rooms, this is not critical. They also assemble a frame from wooden bars of 30 * 30 mm or a larger section.

They nail the strips or profiles first around the perimeter, putting them all in level. Then, on standard suspensions (there are two types) or wooden bars, intermediate guides are fixed in increments of 50-60 cm. They are also aligned so that they are in the same plane as those installed earlier (it’s easier to do if you pull the threads between those already installed and align them).

If you decide to make a minimum indent, just to lay a corrugated hose - 3 mi, then the planks are nailed directly to the ceiling. If necessary, the level is leveled with linings - pieces of plywood, wedges made of wood, etc. In this case, the framework looks something like this.

Installation of starting strips

After the frame is assembled, you can begin the installation of plastic panels. It begins with the installation of the start profile. In the case of a ceiling, a ceiling molding is also used.

It is attached close to the profile or bar fixed around the perimeter of the room. The edges are cut at an angle of exactly 45 °. The length must be measured very accurately: the slightest discrepancy leads to gaps. Against the background of a white ceiling and white profiles (or colored ones, it doesn't matter), the cracks turn black very clearly. If they are small, it will be possible to cover them with putty, but it is better to cut them off clearly: exactly exactly along the length of the wall or with a light - 1 mm - spacing.

The cut off bar can be glued or screwed with self-tapping screws. Ceiling molding is better - to glue (on liquid nails). So the joint turns out to be perfect: when gluing, you press the bar tightly, screwing onto the “bugs” you cannot achieve this effect, since it twists forward a little.

On the side that goes to the wall, a thin strip of glue is applied in a zigzag pattern. The surface of the wall is degreased (you can take 646 solvent). After drying, the piece is set in place, pressed tightly along the entire length and torn off. There should be glue on the wall. Leave it to dry for a few minutes (4-8 depending on the viscosity, the bar should not float, and the glue should stick well) and then apply it in place. To be sure that the bar is level, take a rule, a ruler, an even bar and check the level of the glued starting profile. If necessary, until the glue has finally set, the bar is adjusted.

Having glued the starting profiles on three sides (letter P), they are left to dry, otherwise, when installing the planks, they can be moved. After 8-12 hours, the adhesive will harden and it will be possible to continue the installation.

If, during gluing, “liquid nails” squeezed out somewhere, do not clean it. Wait until completely dry, then pry with a sharp knife. The glue will simply break off and there will be no traces left. If you try to remove it with liquid, it will only smear and stain everything around.

Installation of plastic panels on the ceiling

After the glue has dried, you can begin the installation of the plastic panels themselves. Measure the size from one joint of the already mounted skirting boards to another, add 1.5-1.8 cm to this value. Cut panels of this length. You do not need to make them across the entire width or length of the room - they will not become in profile. If the geometry of the room is ideal, you can cut a lot at once. If there are deviations in size, make several pieces, adjusting the length as you go. You can cut plastic with a jigsaw or grinder.

The first panel enters the previously installed molding from three sides. She is placed with a spike forward - in the bar. Sometimes, if the trim profile is made of soft plastic, the top part (mounting shelf) will flex, making installation difficult. To make the deflection smaller, this edge can be grabbed with self-tapping screws. So it will be easier to insert the bar, otherwise you have to correct it with a spatula, setting the panel in place. It should go into the baseboard or starting profile exactly along the entire length. The inserted strip is fixed to each guide with a self-tapping screw. For fastening to a wooden frame, you can use a stapler with staples (if you mount it in a bathroom or kitchen, then take the staples from stainless steel or galvanized).

The setting of subsequent bands is the same. They are installed first with one edge - into the molding (it enters the plinth by 6-7 mm), then insert the other edge. After that, the bar is leveled, lifting the middle with the hand and eliminating the deflection, tap on the edge with the palm, driving the lock into the groove. It doesn't take much effort, just to make it sit tight. Below you will see that there is no gap at the junction, which means the strip has become normal.

If there is an assistant, he supports the installed panel so that it does not fall out while you fix it on the screws (brackets). If you work alone, you can eliminate the sagging by sticking small pieces of double-sided tape on the profile. They will hold the bar until you secure it. So collect all the panels.

During installation, do not forget to cut holes for installing fixtures. You can do this with a ballerina or a ring nozzle, you can try with a jigsaw, but if you have a good command of the tool and you can make a round hole. As it turned out, you can make a hole with an ordinary drill with a thin drill ... how? Watch in the video. There are a couple more good tips in there.

Having installed a strip or strips in which there is a hole for the lamp, you immediately mount it, connect it and check it. If this is not done immediately, then problems may arise: how can you connect the wires if the entire ceiling is already assembled? Just disassemble part of it. And if you put the last strip on glue? Have to break. Therefore, we install and check the performance immediately.

Installing the last panel

Most of the difficulties arise when installing the last strip. It usually has to be cut. Measure the actual distance from one side of the ceiling and from the other. The difference can be several centimeters. There is nothing unusual or difficult about this. And then there are two options:

• The cut strip is simply inserted into the pre-glued starter profile or plastic plinth. With sufficient panel width, this is possible. But then you need to subtract about 5-7 mm from the measured distance and cut off the strip in this way. Otherwise, you won't put it in. And so it has to be carefully corrected with something thin (steel spatula) so that it falls into place. After a few attempts, it still works out ... But besides the difficulties with installation, there is another drawback here: after a while, since the strip is a little shorter, it moves away (it sinks more into the molding) and a small gap appears in the ceiling.
• The second option is to glue the strip. Then, cutting off the last panel, set aside the distance measured earlier on the ceiling as it is. And not from the beginning of the panel itself, but from the thrust bar. Then it is glued in its pure form on “liquid nails”. Only glue is applied not to the strip, but to all guides. And the one along the wall, and on the perpendicular laying (to which they were attached with self-tapping screws). Further, the technology is the same: they applied it, pressed it down, set it aside for a few minutes, and then finally installed it. The disadvantage of this method is that this strip is not removable. It will need to be broken if necessary. Therefore, leave one more in stock - just in case.

Installation of a plastic ceiling made of PVC panels is almost completed. It remains to install the last plastic plinth. On it, the mounting plate is first cut off: leave only the plinth. After it, you also cut it at the corners at 45 °, try it on, cut it off exactly. Having tried it “dry” again and making sure that the size is correct, the plinth is smeared with glue, only both shelves are already: the one that will be glued to the ceiling, and the one that will be glued to the wall.

Sealing cracks with acrylic

Actually, the installation is completed. But sometimes one more operation is necessary: ​​covering all the gaps with white acrylic. This operation is not needed if you bought high-quality panels that have perfect geometry - French and Belgian. After their assembly, there is no need for correction: there are no sags that form due to the fact that the panels are uneven. Otherwise, we take acrylic sealant, insert the tube into the mounting gun, and fill all the cracks and gaps. Usually these are joints and corners, and also the junction of the plastic plinth with the ceiling. Often there are so many gaps that you have to go through the entire perimeter.

Fill the gaps in small sections of 30-40 cm, removing all unnecessary and leveling the seam. Acrylic levels well until it sets, which is a matter of seconds. Therefore, they smeared a piece, corrected it. If everything is ok, move on. You can remove excess acrylic with a soft cloth, but sometimes it’s more convenient with your finger - for some reason it turns out smoother. Having smeared a piece, take an object with a sharp and even edge (a small spatula) and a damp sponge. Excess putty evenly cut off with a sharp corner of the spatula, then wipe everything with a damp sponge until it is clean, otherwise you will not wipe it off later. So go through the entire perimeter and leave to dry for 8-12 hours.

After the acrylic dries, it can be drawn into the seam. You have to take the tube again and fill the gaps that have appeared, rub it, remove the excess and wash off the smeared. This, the second time, is usually the final one. After drying and this layer, stains remain on the plastic ceiling. Wipe them with a damp clean sponge and then gently rub with a soft cloth to a shine. Now the ceiling of plastic panels is ready, and after installing the fixtures, the repair can be considered completed.

How to mount to the ceiling

If the ceiling is already flat and does not need to be leveled, plastic panels can be mounted directly on it. The order of work is the same: first, the starting profile, then cut-to-size strips are inserted into it, fixing at least every 50 cm.

Choose fasteners depending on the material from which the ceiling is made. Carnations or staples from a stapler can be beaten into a tree. It is more difficult with concrete: self-tapping screws will not work, and you will be tormented by drilling a hole for the dowel for each fastening. Then it’s better to assemble the frame with a minimum indent from the ceiling and then assemble everything as described above.

Another option is to glue on liquid nails. The technology is well-known, but its minus is that such a ceiling made of plastic panels turns out to be non-separable and it will have to be completely dismantled if something happens.

Lamps in the ceiling made of plastic panels

It's not about design or quantity - here everyone is determined by himself, but about the type of lamps and power supply. There are two options: install conventional lamps at 220 V or with a step-down transformer at 12 V. In the first option, ordinary incandescent or housekeeper lamps are installed, in the second - halogen or LED. In any case, a separate machine with an RCD should be allocated for lighting the bathroom or kitchen, which will turn off the electricity supply in the event of a short circuit.

Features of installation and selection of luminaires for 220 V

If you install lamps for 220 V, and put even low-power (40-60 W) incandescent lamps in them, you will have to somehow take care of the thermal insulation of the case. Due to the fact that the lamp is heated, its body also becomes very hot. From the heated case, the plastic darkens and warps over time. Therefore, glue a layer of some kind of flexible heat-insulating material onto the body.

The second point concerns electrical safety when working in 220 V lighting. It is necessary to install lamps with a high degree of protection in the bathroom: not lower than IP44. This means that the lamp housing is protected from water jets. Such lamps cost a lot: the technology is complex. The second point: for the most part, they are rather bulky, since the case is usually ceramic. Just hanging it on plastic will not work: mortgages will be needed. They are installed when assembling the frame: these are additional jumpers in those places where the lamps will be attached.

Halogen and LED

Since this type of lamp requires only 12 V, the electrical safety requirements are lower here. In principle, any design is suitable. Power from the shield after the machine is supplied to the transformer, and from it to the lamps. Up to 4 lamps can be powered from one transformer, but there is a limitation in the instructions for them: the maximum length of the wire to the lamp should not exceed 2 meters. Lamps work normally even at a distance of 2.5-2.7 meters. At a higher voltage drop is already significant and the glow is weaker.

If you decide to put a transformer outside the bathroom for added safety, this is a serious limitation, especially if the bathroom is rather big. Then it will have to be transferred to the bathroom and hidden behind a false ceiling made of plastic panels (the thickness of the device is about 3-4 cm).

Sometimes a transformer is put on each lamp. This is normal, it just costs more, but with a large distance between the lamps it is justified.

Plastic panels are often used to finish the ceiling, they are especially relevant in the bathroom. This material is not afraid of high humidity, it is easy to care for it, in addition, it is light in weight and has a beautiful appearance.

All these properties of plastic panels explain their great popularity when choosing a ceiling covering in the bathroom.

1. One of the main advantages of plastic is that he is not afraid of moisture, therefore, it is the optimal material for finishing the ceiling in the bathroom, where humidity is almost always high.
2. Due to high humidity and poor ventilation, mold can develop in the bathroom or fungus, but on plastic panels, they do not multiply and do not damage them.
3. There is a large selection of the specified material, so you can always choose it in accordance with the interior of the bathroom.
4. With the help of panels it is possible to hide all the irregularities and surface errors, so the suspended plastic ceiling is even and smooth. In addition, not only electrical wiring, but also other communications can be hidden in the interceiling space.

When choosing panels, do not confuse wall and ceiling panels, as those used for the ceiling are lighter and less rigid, which makes them easier to install.

It is worth mentioning that such panels are light in weight, they are easy to install, they have a long service life and the cost of this material is low.

Preparatory work

Before installing plastic panels in the bathroom, you must first prepare the surface. To do this, if there was another suspended ceiling on it, it is removed, the existing gaps must be sealed with putty.

In this case, it is not necessary to level the surface, as this occurs during the installation of the crate.

At the stage of preparation for installation, the required number of panels, metal profiles and fasteners is calculated.

To sheathe the ceiling with plastic panels, you will need the following materials and tools:

• metallic profile;
• plastic panels;
• fasteners;
• hammer drill;
• screwdriver or screwdriver;
• water and building level;
• measuring instruments;
• hacksaw for metal;
• tool for creating holes for built-in lights.

Wireframe creation

First, with the help of a water level on the wall along the perimeter of the room, a line of the future ceiling is applied. If you have tiles on the walls, and it was laid in level, then this simplifies the work, since you can focus on the seams.

Metal carcass

Before starting work, it is necessary to decide on what kind of lamps it is planned to illuminate the room. If they are overhead, then the distance between the ceiling and the main surface may be minimal.

When using built-in lights, this distance should be about 10 cm. Along the perimeter of the room along the intended line, a UD-profile is mounted, the dowels are installed in increments of 40-60 cm.

To speed up the installation, when attaching the profile to the wall, you can use quick installation dowels, which can not be twisted, but hammered.

At the next stage, the CD profile is cut to the required length, consider how you plan to install the plastic panels, since they are mounted perpendicular to the profile. The segments of the CD profile are installed in the UD profile, while the distance between them should be about 40-60 cm.

In that case, when the profile length exceeds 150 cm, suspensions are used for its additional fixation, if less, then fixation in the starting bars is sufficient. If you plan to install a chandelier or pendant lamp, then additional profiles are mounted in this place.

Wood

Plastic can also be mounted on a wooden frame made of wooden beams and slats.

And also with the help of a frameless system, when a wooden crate is attached directly to the draft ceiling, provided that it is even and no recessed (spot) lamps will be installed.

For a frameless design you will need:

• perforator
• reiki
• dowel nails 60 x 6 mm
• fishing line

Step-by-step instruction:

1. first, two extreme rails are fastened with dowels to a concrete slab or self-tapping screws to a rough wooden ceiling (the distance between the drilling points is 30 cm from the edges of 2 cm);
2. pull the fishing line between them, crosswise;
3. install the remaining rails, in increments of 40-60 cm

If the ceiling level needs to be lowered to hide irregularities, lay communications or install spotlights, then wooden frame must be used.

For this you will need:

• wooden bars 4 x 2.5 cm
• reiki
• dowel
• self-tapping screws
• shoelace
• hammer
• construction level

Work order:

1. we make markings on all walls at the required height;
2. the bars are placed with a distance of no more than 80 cm;
3. load-bearing bars are screwed on top perpendicularly, on which PVC panels will be attached.

Installation of PVC panels

1. First, along the perimeter of the bathroom, a starting bar is fixed to the guide profile.
2. Now they cut off the panel of the required length, insert one end into the starting bar, then bend the panel a little and bring the other end into the opposite bar.
3. After that, with the help of screws, the panel is pressed against the crate.
4. The next panel is also brought into the starting bar, first from one side, and then from the other side, it is pressed against the first panel, the gap between them is eliminated and fixed with self-tapping screws. This work must be done carefully, as the panels may be damaged.
5. The last plank is cut to the required length, and then with a knife, it is adjusted to the size in width. After that, it is inserted into the starting strips, while fixing this panel is not necessary.

Material calculation

The dimensions of plastic panels (PVC) for the ceiling are: width 25 cm, but it can be up to 50 cm, thickness is usually 5-10 mm, standard length is 2.7 meters, but can be up to 6 m. The metal profile has a length of 3 m .

To determine the number of panels, calculate the area of ​​the bathroom and divide it by the area of ​​​​one panel (indicated on the package). Be sure to add 15% to the result obtained, this is necessary for a piece of panels.

It is easy to calculate the number of profiles mounted on the wall, it will be equal to the perimeter of the room divided by 3, you will get the required number of planks in pieces.

To calculate the number of CD-profiles, you need to make a crate scheme on paper, taking into account the distance between the profiles. The number of screws and dowels is calculated taking into account the step of their installation, and be sure to make a small margin.

Installation of fixtures

Fixtures in the bathroom are installed in the ceiling, before installing the panels, electrical wiring is carried out, leave big tails, it’s better to cut them off later than you don’t have enough wire. The wire must be taken with a double braid and placed in corrugated hoses. After laying the wiring, check its performance.

In places where spotlights are installed, a hole is made in plastic panels, it is best to do this with a special crown, but you can also use a knife, only carefully.

The luminaires can be installed immediately, after which the panels are fixed, or you can remove the wires and install the luminaires after installing all the panels.

If you plan to install several spotlights in the bathroom, then they are connected in parallel, then if a light bulb burns out in one of them, the others will continue to work normally.

Scheme of parallel connection of spotlights through a transformer:

Connection diagram for spotlights 220 V:

Conclusion

There is a large selection of plastic panels used for ceiling decoration, so with their help you can realize a variety of design solutions.

They allow you to visually change the size of the room, in some cases the panels are even mounted diagonally, but this greatly complicates installation and increases material consumption, so this option is rarely used.

Such a solution can be implemented by any home craftsman with his own hands, and it turns out not only functional, beautiful and durable, you also save significant funds by making the ceiling from pvc panels with your own hands, which is important in our time.

Useful video

Do-it-yourself pvc panel ceiling video:

In contact with

The ceiling in the bathroom of plastic panels is currently a win-win option for finishing work. This option weighs a little, is simply mounted and maintains a presentable appearance even in rooms with a high degree of humidity and at elevated temperatures.

Finishing the ceiling in the bathroom with plastic withstands even troubles when the neighbors flooded from the top floor, which will minimize the money spent on future repairs. It is easy to repair a room with plastic ceilings, since the degree of the bay is negligible.

Why choose plastic for bathrooms

Plastic ceilings in the interior of bathrooms are practical and cost little compared to other finishing materials. In addition, the installation of PVC panels is carried out quickly and will not cause any difficulties. You can quickly install the ceiling if you use a drill.

A large number of representatives of the strong half of humanity carry out the installation of a plastic ceiling on their own. The plastic coating is moisture resistant, easy to maintain and the possibility of long-term operation. Before installing a plastic ceiling in the bathroom, you can choose a design model by viewing numerous photos on the Internet.

So how to make a plastic ceiling with your own hands? The solution to this issue will be found by itself after reading the article.

Preparing to install plastic ceiling panels

Initially, you should select and purchase the necessary material. It must be tight and of good quality. If the plastic is thin, then you can see the wires and the frame structure through it.

Then it is treated with antiseptic materials. After performing these works, cracks and other defects are plastered.

If the room is small, then you can place the plastic diagonally. This will help visually increase the ceiling area, but the work will be somewhat complicated.

Frame structure installation

Before installing the plastic ceiling in the bathroom, it is necessary to mount the frame structure. There are two varieties of it: a profile made of metal and wood. When choosing the last variation, treatment should be carried out using an antiseptic special material. This will help prevent the development of mold and mildew.

Before you start installing plastic tiles, you should calculate the distance that will be between the PVC panels and the ceiling surface. Measure the height of the fixtures. When marking the distance, it is worth resorting to the help of a building level.

If the location of the tile is near the ceiling, then the frame is mounted directly on it. Before starting drilling, it is worth checking if there are any wires here.

The carrier profile or lathing bars are attached to the surface of the frame structure. This will reduce the risk of sagging ceilings, which will help keep the appearance of the coating presentable for a long time period.

We install profiles and PVC panels

In the future, a plastic profile or ceiling plinth is installed. When working, use self-tapping screws with large caps, attaching through a 30-40 cm gap between the holes.

At the same time, lamps are being installed. After marking on the surface of the ceiling where they will be located, electrical networks should be installed. Next, using a knife or a hacksaw, the plastic is cut, adjusting to size.

Before that, you need to insert one of the panel ends, then the structure is bent and the other side is inserted into place. The frame is installed and fastened with the same materials, which prevents it from rotting after some time.

The design ends with the installation of a lamp. After carrying out all the work, the gaps and cracks are treated with a sealant.

In the future, they decorate the ceiling in the style of the design of the room, which will help make the room unique and original.

Photo of plastic ceilings in the bathroom