What tools do you need to build your first model? Prefabricated aircraft models Plastic models for gluing tips.
Gluing various models is one of the types of collectibles. What distinguishes him from the rest is getting pleasure more from creating the model itself than from the fact of acquiring it. A person who at least once tried to glue a model of an aircraft with his own hands will no longer be able to refuse it.
Since ancient times, people have dreamed of conquering the heavens. The idea of creating a perfect aircraft occupied the minds of many eminent scientists and philosophers. To this day, aircraft designers are improving technology and honing their skills every year.
But what should mere mortals do, for whom piloting an aircraft is just a pipe dream? The answer is simple - design. Moreover, today it does not require much effort. You just need to visit our online store selling aircraft models or order your favorite model for gluing or assembling an aircraft in the online store without leaving your home.
In both options, you will get the widest choice of models that are different in scale, type, and complexity of assembling.
In addition, you can purchase ready-made radio-controlled models.
Today, in the age of the Internet, people involved in aeromodelling can communicate with each other on forums, share drawings and literature, and organize competitions.
For many of them, modeling has become the embodiment of a childhood dream of heaven. And for some, just a pleasant pastime.
To assemble the model, the actual model and glue are completely insufficient. To assemble a model with high quality, you will need a lot of tools, tools, mainly inexpensive ones - a model knife. tweezers, sandpaper, glue, masking tape and paints.
Model knives and cutters
The most important of all tools is good knife. A knife with a narrow blade is more suitable for working with model aircraft. The quality of the knife must be very good so that you do not have to sharpen the blade in the process. In the role of a knife, a surgical scalpel has proven itself well.
Skin
To clean the assembled model, you will need at least two types of skins: with a larger grain for initial processing and very fine for finishing. It is advisable to use a waterproof sandpaper, since the grain is quickly clogged with worn plastic. Water-resistant sandpaper should be dipped in water from time to time to wash off plastic filings.
Glue
The easiest way to assemble the model is with liquid quick-drying glue. It does not hurt to have a special glue for connecting transparent parts.
putty
Special model putty is absolutely necessary for sealing all kinds of cracks that form after gluing, leveling surfaces, etc.
masking tape
Masking tape is widely used in the assembly of models. It can not only protect surfaces during painting or puttying, but also fasten parts during gluing. It is advisable to use as thin a tape as possible.
Dye
A large number of paints for models are produced, from miter to acrylic paints on the water based. Finishing is best done with acrylic or oil art paint. In the latter case, the finished model must be blown out with semi-matt varnish so that the entire surface becomes homogeneous. Oil paint gives matte surface, the aircraft model should gleam slightly.
brushes
For painting, you will need three brushes: thin, medium size and large flat. It is advisable to buy artistic brushes with sable hairs. Brushes should be thoroughly washed and dried after use.
| Brush "Revell", marten, №4/0 |  | Brush "Revell", №2 |
Properly organized workplace- big deal. It is most preferable for modeling to have a separate big table, but you can also work in the kitchen when it is free. Lighting plays an important role. In dim light, you may not notice the defects of the models.
Instrument location
The entire tool must be placed neatly and at the same time so. to have it at hand. There is nothing worse than looking for a missing knife during the assembly process.
File and KP
Separated small parts are well stored in transparent plastic files - everything is visible and will not be lost. For files, it does not hurt to start an album.
Tweezers
In the kit of the combined model there will always be parts that are too small for the rough fingers of the modeller. Tweezers are indispensable in this case. It is good to have two tweezers: regular and with bent tips.
Airbrush and compressor
Without an airbrush and a compressor, the vast majority of modellers cannot imagine the process of painting. In any case, you will have to purchase an airbrush and a compressor if you really want to do modeling more or less seriously. The airbrush and compressor will require the largest financial outlay, cut off from the family budget. Be prepared for this yourself and prepare your spouse (the last - the most important !!!). It is generally accepted that painting with an airbrush is easier than with a brush. The question is debatable, however, in any case, the result of painting with an airbrush, all other things being equal (experience of the modeller), is superior to the result of working with a brush. In addition, a number of camouflage schemes for aircraft (Italian, German) during the Second World War can only be done with an airbrush.
Knife set
One model knife is sometimes not enough, it is better to get three: with a sharp, cut and rounded blades.
And you definitely need spare blades for a model knife. You can buy them in the tool store or on Aliexpress: .
"Extra Hands"
Small metal clips "alligators" help a lot in the work. Used by radio installers. They are good at holding small parts when gluing and painting.
When assembling and especially when finalizing a model, you often have to drill holes, so it makes sense to get an electric micro-drill and a set of small diameter drills. The drill can also be used to process the surface of the model using different nozzles.
wire cutters
Separate parts from frames, bite off flash, etc. best of all with small side cutters, borrowed from the arsenal of a radio amateur.
file
The model with cut control surfaces looks much more realistic than the one in which the rudders and ailerons are simply outlined by the linework. It is best to cut with a miniature saw. made from a razor blade.
Hole puncher
punchers different diameters useful for making stencils for identification marks, for example, the Japanese circles of the “rising sun”. Painted identification marks are preferred over decals.
It is hardly possible to list all the tools necessary for assembling the model. In addition to the objective factor, there is also a subjective one.
We buy a model
We have acquired a tool, now you can choose a model. At first, the wisest decision is to stop at something simple, for example, one of the single-engine fighters of the Second World War period: the North Amerpyun P-51 Mustang, the Mitsubishi Zero, or the R-public P-47 Thunderbolt. By assembling these models, you can acquire basic assembly and painting skills.
The models of these aircraft are relatively simple. Both in the 48th and 72nd scales they contain not so many details. For the most part, that Thunderbolt. that the Mustang and the Zero were painted in only two colors - a plain top and a plain bottom. It is better to start with the 72nd scale, if only because of its cheapness compared to the 48th. If you don't have experience then why spoil expensive model if you can ruin a cheap one?
After assembling several single-engine propeller monoplanes, you can proceed to experiments on multi-engine machines, "jets", biplanes, as well as "whales" in 1:48 scale and above (if you have the desire and available separate apartment for finished models).
Examination
Having received a model from the seller, do not rush to thank him. Open the box and make sure that all parts, decals, and especially the cockpit canopy, stated in the instructions, are present. It would be useful to compare the casting with the aircraft declared on the box. Manufacturers from China can manage to put a Messerschmitt in a Spitfire box. not to mention the replacement of Bf.109E with Bf.l09G. Check the quality of the castings - there are underfills.
If you find the complete match of the kit - thank the seller and run home to collect the model. Select houses the right tools and lay them out neatly on your desktop. You can move on to the next step.
Studying instructions
You will probably start studying the instructions along the way. This is by no means forbidden (but not welcome either - you can get hit by a car). Evaluate the instruction from a critical point of view. Its author has his own view on the model assembly process, you may have your own. Sometimes it makes sense to change the build order. But. do not rush to scold the author if you did not like something. Try to delve into the ideas that led the technologist to this particular assembly order. Maybe he is right, not you?
Check for lice
The overall quality of the model is fairly easy to check. Separate several large parts (halves of the fuselage or wing planes) and attach them to each other. If it worked out easily and without displacement, then you bought the Thing. If not, stock up on putty, sandpaper and patience. Cut off parts, so as not to lose, it is recommended to keep in a special box. Parts should be separated from the sprues with a knife or side cutters, but in no case should they be broken off. If necessary, the places where the parts are attached to the frames should be cleaned after separation.
Fuselage assembly
So, you have examined the model. The euphoria has passed, you can get down to business. Let's start with the fuselage.
Parts cleaning
On the castings, there may be traces of mold lubricant, and other grease stains, they should be removed. Immerse the sprue or already cut parts for ten minutes in warm water, then thoroughly scrub them with soap and water with an old toothbrush. Rinse in running water and put to dry.
Cleanup
After the parts are dry, clean the flat surfaces with a large piece of sandpaper, go over the sandpaper with the ends of the fuselage halves. The operation has two goals - to remove possible large irregularities, and to make the place of gluing the halves absolutely flat, removing traces of the pusher (if any), and slightly rough for better adhesion glue. Clean also the places where parts are attached to the sprues.
It happens that one of the halves of the fuselage is molded with protruding parts, for example, with the tail landing gear. There are two ways. The first is to cut the part and glue it after the fuselage is assembled. The second way is to take a small wooden block, wrap it with sandpaper and process the end of the fuselage rugs especially carefully by sanding in the area of the protruding part. At the very detail, it is best to scrape not with a sandpaper, but with a half of a razor blade. Remove the burr with a model knife. In addition to the factory, a small “flash” may appear when sanding. Some plastics peel off. Pay attention to the flash not only on the ends, but also in the area of the cutout for the pilot's cabin lamp, in the air intake hole, in the places where the stabilizers and wing planes are glued. Remember: when a defect “comes out” during painting (and it will definitely “appear”), it will be too late to correct it.
Lantern fitting
Fold the fuselage halves. They should fit together perfectly. If necessary, repeat the stripping of the halves on the skin. Attach a flashlight to the folded fuselage (as long as it can be fastened with rubber bands). The lantern, again, should fit perfectly "in place". Otherwise, carefully sand it to fit the fuselage. There are "deadly" options - the lantern is thicker than the fuselage. Well - with-skinned plexiglass, then run to the store for the GOI infusion. With GOI paste, it is quite possible to restore the transparency of the lantern to a more than acceptable level.
Modern modellers use Future Floor Finish (Floor Wax)- American liquid for polishing floors. Adds transparency and shine to transparent decals.
It is much worse if a gap is formed between the canopy and the fuselage, and the top of the canopy fits perfectly into the rear of the fuselage. Such a defect is “treated” with putty. The trouble lies in the color of the putty - white or light gray. The interior of the cabin has a completely different color. Painting the putty from the inside with a glued lantern is a more difficult task than assembling a ship model in a bottle. The process is elementary only in one case - when there is a huge cutout for the center section at the bottom of the fuselage.
Cab Interior Customization
It is time to separate the elements of the cabin interior from the sprues: dashboard, floor, back wall. Fit the parts in place by grinding and inserting them into the fuselage halves. Often the floor and dashboard are too wide for the glued fuselage halves. On some models, the cockpit side panels are molded integrally with the fuselage halves, on some models, the cockpit floor, together with the side panels, forms a kind of bathroom. The bathroom is also often wider than necessary. Get it in place.
Now cut off small details of the cabin interior from the sprues - the control knob. pedals, pilot seat. Clean them up and put them in a box so you don't lose them.
Cabin interior painting
Sometimes in the process of building a model you have to paint individual parts or sub-assembly, cabin in particular. Small parts should be prepared for assembly and painting in the same way as large ones: removal of breakage, traces of pushers, cleaning of molding seams, washing, drying and degreasing.
Pay attention to the selection of paints for the interior of the cabin. Group the parts by color. Details that are painted in different colors it is convenient to clamp in the "crocodiles". Make sure that the alligator's "teeth" grip the parts securely - a jet of compressed air is quite capable of sweeping a loose part. First of all, it is dyed base color the cabin itself (most often it is inner sides fuselage halves). After the base tone has completely dried, proceed to “painting” with a brush the elements of the “decoration” of the cabin: radio stations, trimmer controls, oxygen supply tap, etc. Most often, these elements are painted black, but other colors are also found.
Before assembly, it is also worth painting the visible inner surfaces of the air intakes and engine cylinders.
Dashboard trim
The easiest way is to transfer the enclosed decal to the dashboard. Almost all models are equipped with such decals and almost all decals are best case meet the realities of 20-30 percent. Much more realism is possible by painting the dashboard with a brush with paints on water or oil based. It is necessary to paint the dashboard in the base color even when using decals. It is easier to paint dashboards on which individual instruments are simulated during casting, especially if the base color of the board, as on the Mustang or Zero, is black. The part is completely painted with matte black paint, then the edges of the devices are outlined with a lead pencil. In conclusion, a drop will be drunk on the scale of the device liquid glass at worst, use colorless nail polish; after drying, the varnishes or glass are slightly polished.
The instrument panel of the Thunderbolt was painted black, the instrument scales were painted white. Again, you will have to start by painting the dashboard in matte black. After complete drying, a drop of white paint is applied to the center of the imitation of the scale of the device and “smeared” to the edges of the device. After drying - varnish or glass plus polishing.
The next step towards realism is the imitation of the instrument scales themselves. This work requires experience and accuracy. Scales are drawn with a thin brush.
Cabin interior assembly
After painting the cabin interior elements, you can start assembling. Provided that the parts are pre-fitted, it should not cause difficulties. Contact points should be cleaned of paint. It is best to connect parts with liquid glue, using the capillary effect known from the physics course. Two parts are pressed tightly against each other, a drop is applied to the joint liquid glue. A drop will fill the smallest pores of the joint and the connection will turn out to be both strong and neat. When gluing, it is important that the glue does not get on the painted surfaces, especially on the dashboard - painstaking work will go down the drain.
It is most convenient when the interior of the cabin is made in the form of a "bath", as in the Thunderbolt model. The bath is assembled separately from the fuselage and must dry at least overnight after gluing. With the first rays of the rising sun, you can try on assembled module to the fuselage. If the module fits, glue it to one half of the fuselage and lie down to fill up. If not, adjust with a familiar method of sanding, cutting and undermining excess plastic. After gluing the “bath” and light setting of the glue, make a final check - put the fuselage halves together again, one of which has already glued the cockpit.
Assembly of the fuselage halves
Usually, the manual recommends applying glue to the mating surfaces of the fuselage halves. Most do just that, but in this case, there is a high probability of uncontrolled extrusion of excess glue on the outer surfaces of the assembly. It is better to use the already familiar capillary effect: fold the halves and smear them along the contour with liquid glue, apply the glue carefully with a brush. True, even in this case there are pitfalls: adhesives can easily get on the fingertips, and the latter can leave hard-to-remove prints on the surface of the fuselage. Try to keep the fuselage away from the seam with your fingers when applying the adhesive. The glued halves should be clamped with something (rubber bands, clothespins) and left to dry.
After a few hours of drying, it is necessary to flush the adhesive seam, having previously protected the cockpit from sawdust with adhesive tape. Sometimes the seam has to be puttied. The putty should also be allowed to dry well. The seam is cleaned with skins of different grain sizes (from medium to fine).
The first step in assembling the aircraft model has been made. You can smile proudly, proud of your achievement.
Add a wing and plumage
It makes sense to start with the tail: until the wing is glued to the stabilizer and the rudders are easy to rise.
Correction of defects of the brutal tail
On most small-scale Mustang, Thunderbolt and Zero fighter models, the halves of the stabilizer are molded in one piece (top and bottom together). Most of the time they are defect free. If there are defects, then it is recommended to apply "hot cleaning".
Heat the water to a boil and lower the part with an unnecessary bend into it for a few seconds. Remove the part until it has cooled straighten it. Repeat the operation (heating-bending) until the defect disappears.
Thinner parts require less heat. All surfaces of the tail unit have sufficiently thin leading and trailing edges, hollowly eliminating the defect by bathing in hot water You can easily damage the edges. It is desirable to bend only thick tea "stabilizer.
Prepare the halves of the stabilizer for gluing - sanding, washing, drying, degreasing.
Fitting surfaces of plumage
Insert half of the stabilizer into the fuselage. As a rule, the junction even on good models requires customization. The gap will have to be puttied after gluing, but for now it is necessary to assess how accurately the surface of the stabilizer fits the fuselage sagging. If the bead is thicker, then it must be adjusted to the profile of the stabilizer, if the stabilizer is thicker, then it would probably be better to increase the bead profile with putty after gluing the half of the stabilizer.
Alignment and attachment of tail surfaces
Now that you have fitted the tail assembly in place, you can start gluing it. If a rudder is given separately, then start with it. Apply maple to the docking surfaces and press the rudder against the fuselage. In most cases, the rudder is glued on as if it were in the neutral position, so be sure to look at the front, rear, and top of the model several times to make sure the rudder is in the correct position.
After the adhesive seam of the rudder and fuselage has hardened, you can proceed to attaching the horizontal halves. Each half must be glued strictly at right angles to the plane of symmetry of the fuselage. By eye, the correctness of gluing the stabilizer is best checked by examining the assembly strictly from behind with a turn of 90 degrees. In this case, the stabilizer occupies a vertical position and it is easier to mentally compare the relative position of its halves, the halves must be on the same axis. Having set right angles, fix the halves of the stabilizer with something (for example, masking tape) until the glue dries completely.
Wing
The wing planes are sometimes given in two halves, the upper and lower, sometimes the right and left upper parts and the common lower for the right and left planes, there are also wing planes cast in one piece. Problems that can arise with a wing are akin to a stabilizer problem.
Alignment and gluing of the rigid wing
Rigid wing defects are eliminated by the already familiar “heat-bending” method. Then the plane is adjusted to the center section. When gluing planes, the angle of the transverse "V" and the installation angle of attack should be controlled. It is important to maintain the same angles of attack and "V" for both planes. Even small discrepancies in the angles of the planes will be clearly visible on the assembled model. The uniformity of the transverse angle is conveniently controlled by the width of the slots between the planes and the center section. Gluing planes. Check the installation angles and fix the position of the wing with masking tape or tape. After the glue has hardened, the cracks are puttied and sanded. It is extremely inconvenient to work with emery at the junction of the plane and the fuselage, moreover, the paneling is almost always damaged during work. However, there's nothing to be done, not to leave gaps. It is quite possible to restore the stitching with the proper skill.
Alignment and gluing of the wing planes from two halves
The first step is to grind the ends of the halves of the planes on the skin, a similar operation has already been done with the halves of the fuselage. Let's put the halves of one plane and carefully examine. Ideally, the ends of the halves, their ends and the lines of the jointing should converge. In practice, you usually have to remember the saying “pulled out the tail - the nose got stuck. After combining the highlanders, one of the endings “leaves” somewhere, the lines of the jointing do not match. It is best to take as a starting point when gluing the coincidence of the lines of the jointing of the upper and lower halves. Preparation for gluing is carried out as usual. The halves are folded again and fixed with narrow strips of camouflage data. Bonding occurs due to the work of the capillary effect - but the perimeter of the plane is passed with a brush with liquid glue. After which the adhesive has set, the fixing strips are removed, and glue is dripped onto those joints that they covered. While one plane dries, you can do the second. Finishing surfaces and, especially, the edges of the plane is carried out only after the adhesive has completely dried. The assembled planes are glued to the fuselage as well as the whole halves. Once again, it does not hurt to remind: control the installation angles, first of all - the angle of the transverse “V”.
Aligning and gluing a three-part wing
The process of assembling a wing from three parts (two upper halves of the planes and one lower, cast in one piece with the lower surface of the center section) will be different than assembling wings from four and two parts.
Prepare the parts for gluing as usual. Reinstall the lower part of the wing and secure it with masking tape. Check installation angles. Then attach the upper ladles of the planes in place and also fix them with adhesive tape (the same problems may arise here as when joining the upper and lower halves of the wing of four parts: not joining the tips and joint lines). Check the cross "V" again. If you need to reduce the angle, insert spacers made of thin plastic of the same thickness into the slots between the fuselage and the upper halves. Glue the lower wing piece to the fuselage. After drying, once again check the transverse “V” and the correct fit of the upper halves of the planes. If everything is fine - make the capillary effect work for the good deed of gluing the upper halves with the lower part. After setting the main adhesive seam, remove the adhesive tape, coat with glue the joints previously covered with masking tape.
The assembly must be completely dry before sanding and sanding. Sanding the edges of the wing and the junction of the planes with the center section completes an important step in the assembly of the model. Now the model already looks like an airplane.
is your guide to the world of scale simulation!
There was at one time (the beginning of the 2000s) such a wonderful magazine about large-scale modeling - scale models . It was produced for a relatively short time, something about 2 years. Nevertheless, a large number of foreign materials were collected and analyzed in it, and author's articles were written.
Of course, some of these materials are now obsolete. Simply because the quality of the models has dramatically changed since then; new specialized products have appeared that have made part of the modeling technologies unnecessary. Most modern modellers do not have the amount of time for various kinds of gashes that they had before.
However, there are a number of materials whose value does not diminish with time. Even vice versa. After all, no matter how many models, materials or tools change - the foundation of understanding WHAT And HOW need to do remains the same.
That is why I decided to include MOST interesting articles from a magazine scale models to our site content.
Today I will start the publication of the series HOW TO ASSEMBLE A MODEL AIRCRAFT , which considers the basic aspects of the work of a modeler in this direction.
A plane floating in the sky makes any person who is not alien to the sense of beauty bewitched to look at himself. A well-assembled model of an airplane can please the eye no less than a real one, and a whole collection of models can turn simple apartment to the entire aviation museum.
Model manufacturers offer customers a large number of assembly kits.
These kits are supplied with assembly instructions, which only give an idea of where to attach which part, without saying anything about how to achieve that the assembled model resembles a “live” aircraft as much as possible.
In this publication, we will try to summarize domestic and foreign experience in assembling models. We do not discover America - if you have already collected models, then you already know much of the following.
What if you forgot something?
INSTRUMENTS
To assemble the model, the actual model and glue are completely insufficient. To assemble a model with high quality, you will need a lot of tools, mainly inexpensive ones - a model knife, tweezers, sandpaper, glue, masking tape and paints.
Model knives and cutters
The most important of all tools is a good knife. A knife with a narrow blade is more suitable for working with model aircraft. The quality of the knife must be very good so that you do not have to sharpen the blade in the process. In the role of a knife, a surgical scalpel has proven itself well.
Skin
To clean the assembled model, you will need at least two types of skins: with a larger grain for initial processing and very fine for finishing. It is advisable to use a waterproof sandpaper, since the grain is quickly clogged with worn plastic. Water-resistant sandpaper should be dipped in water from time to time to wash off plastic filings.
Glue
The easiest way to assemble the model is with liquid quick-drying glue. It does not hurt to have a special glue for connecting transparent parts.
putty
Special model putty is absolutely necessary for sealing all kinds of cracks that form after gluing, leveling surfaces, etc.
masking tape
Masking tape is widely used in the assembly of models. It can not only protect surfaces during painting or puttying, but also fasten parts during gluing. It is advisable to use the thinnest possible tape.
Dye
A large number of model paints are available, from nitra to water-based acrylic paints. Finishing is best done with acrylic or oil art paint. In the latter case, the finished model must be blown out with semi-matt varnish so that the entire surface becomes homogeneous. Oil paint will give a matte finish, while the aircraft model should have a slight sheen.
brushes
For painting, you will need three brushes: thin, medium size and large flat. It is advisable to buy artistic brushes with sable hairs. Brushes should be thoroughly washed and dried after use.
Workplace
A properly organized workplace is a big deal. It is best to have a separate large table for modeling, but you can also work on the kitchen when it is free. Lighting plays an important role. In dim light, you may not notice the defects of the models.
Instrument location
The entire tool must be placed neatly and at the same time so that it is at hand. There is nothing worse than looking for a missing knife during the assembly process.
Files
Separated small parts are well stored in transparent plastic files - everything is visible and will not be lost. For files, it does not hurt to start an album.
Tweezers
In the kit of the combined model there will always be pieces that are too small for the rough fingers of the modeler. Tweezers are indispensable in this case. It is good to have two tweezers: regular and with bent tips.
Airbrush and compressor
Without an airbrush and a compressor, the vast majority of modellers cannot imagine the process of painting. In any case, you will have to purchase an airbrush and a compressor if you really want to do modeling more or less seriously. The airbrush and compressor will require the largest financial outlay, cut off from the family budget.
Be prepared for this yourself and prepare your spouse (the last is the most important !!!).
In addition, a number of camouflage schemes for aircraft (Italian, German) during the Second World War can only be done with an airbrush.
Knife set
One model knife is sometimes not enough, it is better to get three: with a sharp, cut and rounded blades.
"Extra Hands"
The small metal alligator clips used by radio installers are of great help in the work. They are good at holding small parts when gluing and painting.
Drill
When assembling and especially when finalizing the model, you often have to drill holes, so it makes sense to get an electric micro drill and a set of small diameter drills. The drill can also be used to process the surface of the model using different nozzles.
wire cutters
Separate parts from frames, bite off flash, etc. best with small side cutters. borrowed from the arsenal of a radio amateur.
file
The model with cut control surfaces looks much more realistic than the one in which the rudders and ailerons are simply outlined by the linework. Cutting is best done with a miniature saw made from a razor blade.
Hole puncher
Hole punches of different diameters are useful for making stencils for identification marks, for example, the Japanese circles of the “rising sun”. Painted identification marks are preferable to decals.
It is hardly possible to list all the tools necessary for assembling the model. In addition to the objective factor, there is also a subjective one.
TO BE CONTINUED…
, Zvezda and a number of other equally well-known companies. The basis of our assortment is more than 700 samples of Russian and foreign aircraft. In addition to prefabricated models of aircraft from the Second World War, you will find copies of modern technology. First of all, these are samples of civil aviation and spacecraft (lunar vehicles and rockets).
What kits do we offer? Most of the prefabricated models of civil and military aviation are made on a scale of 1:72 or 1:48, less often, but still there are instances of 1:32 and 1:144. Many of them are made according to original drawings and are highly detailed. It will be especially interesting for professionals to build an exact copy of a real passenger or military aircraft. After all, such a ready-made Il, An or Boeing will take its rightful place in the collection.
Which aircraft assembly model can you buy from us?
Samples of both Russian and foreign aviation are on sale. Among them:
- Su planes. Represented in the catalog by multirole fighters. Among them are the Su-35 and Su-37.
- Aircraft Il. Among them is the famous Soviet attack aircraft. This is IL-2, which took part in the battles of 1941.
- MiG aircraft. They are among the most advanced fighter-bombers in the world. Here you can purchase prefabricated MiG models in modifications 21BiS, 29S and a number of others.
- Aircraft Tu. Presented for sale by models of passenger airliners. Among them are the Tu-134 A / B-3 and Tu-154M, made on a scale of 1:144.
- Boeing aircraft. Famous passenger airliners manufactured in the USA. You can purchase from us a combined Boeing model from 767 and 778 series. They are available in both standard and gift versions. The latter has everything you need for assembly: glue, paint and a brush.
Collecting, as well as collecting aircraft models, occupies a special place among the many different types of hobbies. Assembling a model from ready-made plastic parts, you should be as accurate, accurate, patient and assiduous as possible. Also, you should have an idea about the history of the equipment that you began to collect.
To collect beautiful model aircraft, the instructions included in the kit you bought are not enough. In order for your model to turn out without glue streaks after assembly, its surface to be even, with well-applied paint, you should study the basic rules for high-quality assembly. These are the basic rules that will be discussed in today's article.
So, let's go directly to the collection of a plastic model of the aircraft, but for this you should purchase the kit you are interested in. If you have not yet decided on your future choice, you can familiarize yourself with the large assortment of our store, as well as buy liked . In our store you will find a variety of assembly kits, such as military equipment various periods, and civil.
Before proceeding with the collection of the model, it is necessary to prepare necessary set tools, such as: a model knife, glue - model and PVA, a special model tape or adhesive tape, tweezers, sandpaper, brushes or an airbrush, as well as a primer, putty and paints.
Then you should take out the entire contents of the kit and check the presence of all parts, as well as the absence of damage or deformation on them. If after checking all the parts are in place and not damaged, proceed to the next step.
Next, you should prepare the workplace - it should be a large, spacious table, which is covered with a special model rug. The room where the aircraft will be assembled must be well lit, the light must be bright. If you have an airbrush and coloring assembled structure will be produced by him, then the room must be equipped with good ventilation.
An important factor is how the model will look in the end. To do this, you should find images of a real prototype of the selected model in historical literature or on the Internet.
Main assembly steps:
1. First of all, we select sprues, to which the main parts of the hull are attached - these are the fuselage and wings. Carefully, using a model knife, cut off the parts and process the attachment points to the sprues with sandpaper.
Separate the parts from the sprues sequentially so as not to confuse their belonging and place in the model in the future.
2. Next, fold the body halves together and secure with a model tape or adhesive tape. Also, using a model tape or adhesive tape, we attach all the main details to the structure. After making sure that all the details fit together and clearly occupied their niches, we can start gluing the aircraft.
3. Before you start gluing the parts of the fuselage, you should assemble and paint the cockpit. After the cabin is completely dry, we place it between the halves of the fuselage and begin gluing the halves.
4. Now go directly to gluing models. Aircraft parts should be glued one by one. Glue each subsequent part only after the previous one has dried. Try to apply the glue carefully, without leaving streaks.
5. After gluing all the parts and completely drying the glue, we perform polishing aircraft models. This is done with sandpaper. This procedure is necessary to give a smooth surface to the structure.
6. Next, apply putty, to avoid all sorts of cracks, dents and other things at the joints between the wings and the body. Carefully apply putty to desired areas, the remaining excess is removed with a wet rag.
7. After the putty has completely dried, we re-sand the aircraft body with sandpaper.
8. Having achieved a smooth surface of our case, we proceed to its priming. But before doing this, you need to degrease the body, for this you should use a special degreasing agent or alcohol. We also cover with modeling tape the areas where the primer should not fall, such as the cabin window, lights.
This procedure is necessary to identify imperfections on the surface of the aircraft model before painting it, as well as to ensure that the paint lays down in an even layer and does not chip off when it dries.
The primer should be applied with smooth, quick movements along or across the model. The container with soil should be kept 30 - 50 cm from the surface of the aircraft. Since the soil is toxic substance, the procedure should be performed with a respirator and gloves.
First, prime the upper part of the body and leave to dry for 30 - 40 minutes. After drying, we primed the lower part, and now the model should dry for two days.
9. After the primer has completely dried, the aircraft body must be carefully sand. We perform this action until the surface becomes smooth.
10. Before painting, we thoroughly blow the model so that dust particles and hairs do not remain on it. Only after this procedure, proceed to painting the assembled aircraft model. Small parts should be painted without removing from the sprue
Assembling is only part of the exciting work on the model. The final stage of such an interesting process is staining, applying decals and varnish on assembled model. And after completion of all stages of assembly, staining and application final touches The aircraft model you have assembled will take its rightful place in your home collection.
