An emphasis for longitudinal sawing.

Having perfectly aligned the saw with one of the edges of the table, I attached it with M4 screws. To do this, I had to drill the iron base of the circular in four places.

In general, any circular is suitable for installation on a table, but if you choose the type of fastening with screws for the base, then it is better to choose a model with an iron base. The cast may crack.

There is another popular way to fix the circular to the table without drilling holes in the base - attach it with clamps that fix the base by pressing it to the surface. Only this method seemed to me not true enough in terms of accuracy and reliability of the installation, and I did not use it.

Another important parameter of a manual circular is the ability to connect a vacuum cleaner. If you saw without a vacuum cleaner, fine wood dust rises into the air.

The disc has been sawn to the top side of the table top. Height - 40mm (Bosh wood disc 160mm). The table top reduces the cutting depth by 9 mm. The depth of cut is set on the circular saw itself. It is convenient that the disk can be completely hidden in the table.

UPD: IMPORTANT! On a number of budget circulars, it may turn out that the disk is under an imperceptible slope. And all cuts will be beveled. Be sure to check with a tool square that the disc is at 90 degrees relative to the table surface. (before installing the saw, you can check the angle relative to the native site. If the disk is not at a right angle and there is no way to set the ideal angle of the site, you can put several strips of tin on one side under the site, achieving the ideal angle (you can use washers for the screws that fasten the saw to the table, but this solution is worse)

Inside the table I placed a socket for the saw, which will now turn on with the start button.

This is how you can connect a vacuum cleaner to the saw. In general, the table is ready and you can saw. (done in one evening and one morning).

Of course, it is possible to cut without equipment using slats and clamps, but it is inconvenient.

This design, clinging to the edges of the table and aligning with them, can move along the saw blade. By pressing the rail against the sled, you can easily cut it exactly at 90 o. Thin pieces of wood can be placed inside the sled.

You can even cut the rail like a sausage :) For example, I cut several pieces of different thicknesses.

Slides solve only part of the problems. For longitudinal sawing, a side stop is also needed.

I glued brackets from plywood that will cling to the edge of the table.

Clings to the edges with a death grip.

The circular saw is a dangerous tool. In order not to saw off my fingers, I made a simple pusher from the waste of a furniture board.

I have already managed to work with this table, sawing and slats, furniture panels, plywood. It became much easier to perform all these works than I did when sawing off with a hand circular saw.

In the future, I will further refine this table:
- I will remake the side stop for longitudinal sawing, so that when moving, it always remains parallel to the disk
- I will put a removable riving knife to which the disc protection will be attached
- I'll make a dust extraction from the top of the table. (Now when I drink, the disc throws wood dust right in my face)
- I will finish the improved pusher. I have already begun to make a more interesting and convenient version of the pusher, I will write about this in the future.

I will gradually implement this in the future, but for now I will work like this.

This article looks at some simple but useful attachments that the craftsman made for his hand saw. At the end of the publication, for clarity, there is a video tutorial by the author of the “Do-it-yourself joinery” channel.

In this Chinese store expanse for carpenters. Browser plugin for saving in it: 7% -15% from purchases.

Used saw Boch GKS 165 CE. This is, first of all, the traditional regular parallel stop, which is included in the kit of almost any hand-held circular saw. The rest of the devices are various guides. This is a device for perpendicular cross cutting and banding of workpieces. This is a guide rail for cutting sheet material. Two bars - probably the most useful auxiliary devices at work - installation bars, which allow you to accurately place any guides, which are a straight edge rail, paint rules, any straight pipe or profile, or the factory edge of any sheet material. And finally, an adjustable guide for sawing at a given angle.
I made all these devices with my own hands a long time ago, when with the help of a hand saw and an electric planer I learned the basics of carpentry and carpentry during summer cottage construction. And they still serve faithfully to this day.

Especially useful for working with large-sized long-length material. That is, with long boards and large sheets that are inconvenient to process on a circular machine or miter saw. In the first part about the first three devices, as the most popular. The other two will be covered in the second part.

So, the simplest and most common device for a hand-held circular saw is a standard stop designed for longitudinal cutting of workpieces to a given width. But this stop has one drawback - to ensure safety, it is designed so as not to interfere with the operation of the protective casing of the saw. As a result, the stop does not allow cutting with a width less than a certain specified value. In different models of circular saws, it is different. For a saw, this is 22 mm. That is, with the help of this stop it will not be possible to cut rails with a thickness of less than 22 mm. Somehow it was necessary to quickly cut a large number of slats, 10-15 mm thick for spacers between boards in a stack. Of the tools available was only a circular saw. It turned out that with the help of a standard stop it is impossible to do this. Therefore, he took the first bar with parallel edges that came to hand and temporarily attached it to the stop with self-tapping screws. Since then, I have been enjoying it!

With the help of a blank, you can saw off slats of any width, up to several millimeters. When working with such an upgraded stop, especially when sawing less than 15 millimeters, increased safety precautions should be observed. With a small sawing width, the protective cover rests on the bar and does not cover the rotating disc. Therefore, when handling a saw, in order not to get injured, you need to be extremely careful and attentive.
Using the device is simple: set the stop to the required cutting width, fix the workpiece, firmly press the bar to the edge of the board and drive the saw along the workpiece. Since such an emphasis can be installed almost close to the disk, replacing the overlay with a longer one, about 40-50 cm, the saw can be used as an impromptu jointer for quickly leveling the edge of the edged board. The result is quite acceptable!

The next fixture is a guide for making perpendicular, transverse cuts.

It consists of the actual guide rail and a stop perpendicular to it. The cut line is defined by the edge. The author of the idea has been using it for about 4-5 years, so the edge is heavily worked out, and soon we will have to make a new one. The device is made for a specific saw blade, for memory I wrote the parameters of my disk. On the other hand, a guide was made for a manual router, with a 12 mm cutter, but it is rarely used.
This device was made to perform a specific job, namely for the manufacture of carved columns for the terrace of his house. It was necessary to make many shallow perpendicular cuts on each side of the timber.
Further from 5 minutes. And the continuation in the second part.

How to make a homemade circular table with your own hands according to the drawings

A hand-held circular saw is a powerful tool with high productivity. One of the main advantages of a circular saw is that maneuverability becomes a disadvantage when large volumes of wood need to be cut. To simplify the process, you can easily assemble a table for a circular saw with your own hands.

Table device

small tabletop circular stand

The design of the table for a manual circular saw is so simple that most craftsmen make it without preliminary drawings and diagrams. This is a sturdy workbench that is made from wood and plywood. The most reliable table bases are made of metal. They are the heaviest and require the skills of a welder. Therefore, more often coasters are made from lumber waste. A circular saw is attached under the tabletop, the disk protrudes above it through a specially made slot. Timber is moved along the countertop and sawn with a rotating disc. For convenience and accuracy of work, the table is equipped with additional devices: angular and longitudinal emphasis.

The tabletop "eats" part of the working surface of the disc, the depth of cut will decrease by the thickness of the tabletop. Therefore, it is desirable to select a circular saw with a maximum disc diameter, and a thin but rigid tabletop.

If the saw has not yet been purchased, select models with high power (from 1200 W). They can cut through large volumes of wood. Holes will be drilled in the sole for fastening: the molded base may crack. Therefore, it is advisable to choose a tool with a stamped sole.

Selection of materials

fixing a circular saw under the table top

To make a good stand for a hand-held circular saw, you should remember carpentry skills, be patient and a small amount of materials:

• laminated plywood 15 - 20 mm;
• timber 50 x 50;
• board;
• switch;
• external socket;
• piece of electrical cable;
• PVA glue;
• wood varnish (if the plywood is not laminated);
• self-tapping screws.

The size of the countertop will depend on the area of ​​​​the workshop. However, on a table that is too small, it will be inconvenient to cut long pieces. If the entire part fits on the work surface, the cut is smoother and more accurate. The height of the legs is selected depending on the height of the master.

For a small workshop, a desktop design with approximate dimensions of 50 x 50 x 25 cm is convenient.

Table making process

1. From a sheet of laminated plywood, we cut out the countertop of the required size. The marking is applied to the lower plane using a metal ruler and a pencil. We cut the plywood with an electric jigsaw, mill the edges if necessary. If the plywood is not laminated, we clean the surface of the table with sandpaper.
2. We turn over and from the bottom we make markings for attaching a manual circular. To do this, remove the disc from the tool and set it with the sole in the desired place. We make marks on the table top and on the sole for fasteners and a groove for the saw blade. We drill holes for the bolts. They will be screwed from above, through the countertop and from below held by nuts. Therefore, from the side of the working surface, we countersink the holes, and grind the bolt heads so that they do not protrude.
3. If you plan to cut the material at different angles, the slot for the saw blade is made in the form of an inverted trapezoid. For even sawing, a regular groove is made. Before cutting the slot and holes for fasteners, attach a saw, correct the marks, and only then cut.
4. Mark with a pencil the location of the stiffeners. They are made from a board and installed from below 8 - 9 cm from the edge of the countertop. We will attach the legs of the table to the ribs. The ribs are fixed with self-tapping screws at intervals of 15 - 25 centimeters, additionally glued with PVA. Self-tapping screws are screwed in from above, through the countertop, the heads are completely recessed. The ribs are fastened together with long self-tapping screws.
5. The legs of the table are made of a bar or board, their length will be from 100 to 113 cm. The legs, slightly diverging downwards, will give greater stability. They are fixed on large bolts, twisted from the outside, fastened with nuts from the inside. Screeds from a bar will additionally strengthen the frame.
6. To adjust the height of the table, nuts are attached from below, into which M14 bolts are screwed.
7. Now you can fix the saw from below by passing the disc into the prepared slot.
8. We attach an electrical outlet to the inside of the table, pass an electrical wire from it and install the switch in a convenient place (on the outer part of the stiffener). The outlet will be powered by the switch. From it we stretch the wire to the nearest power source in the workshop. Using a construction tie, we fix the ON-OFF button on the body of the circular saw in a recessed position.

Let's start making auxiliary stops. For the longitudinal stop, you will need a #30 aluminum square tube and two screws with wing nuts.

1. We saw off a piece of pipe along the length of the countertop, cut holes for the screws 3 cm from the edge.
2. We cut out two clamps from pieces of plywood. The structure is ready.
3. For sawing across the table, we make a plywood sled. We align them relative to the edges of the table, press and move along the jagged circle. In the place where the circle passes in the sled, we cut a groove. Small parts can be stacked directly inside the sled and sawn.

Dust removal is organized from under the table, but most of the dust scatters from above, so it’s a good idea to supplement the device with an upper dust outlet.

Working with a circular saw is very dangerous, so care must be taken to protect your fingers. Cut out a pusher from a piece of board or furniture board.

Additions to the design

This design can be supplemented with a riving knife, which will be removed. Put on a disc protection on it, which cuts off the flow of chips flying directly into the carpenter.

Some masters, assembling a table according to unique drawings, completely remove the factory protective cover, and replace the factory platform with a home-made one. If you do not plan to cut at an angle, you can also remove all devices for adjusting the blade tilt. The saw is fixed directly on the new base, which allows you to gain a few millimeters of cutting depth.

Without an inner casing, it is easier to remove the blade, the saw does not clog with chips so much when working with wet boards. Dismantling requires extra time, but the engine resource is saved, overload is prevented.

The first video is about a stationary table for a circular saw, the second about a small portable design:

An example of drawings and improvised designs

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Do-it-yourself hand saw accessories.

These simple and very useful attachments for a handheld circular saw -

• parallel stop,
• device for perpendicular cross cutting and trimming of boards,
• guide bar for cutting sheet material,
• positioning bars for precise placement of any guide and adjustable miter guide

With the help of these devices, your hand-held circular saw can successfully replace not only a circular machine and a miter saw, but also a jointer, and it will turn into a very convenient and accurate tool.

The first part of the video.

The second part of the video.

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1. Zero clearance

If the circular saw blade leaves torn fibers and chips on the edges of the cut, try to next addition. Cut out a piece of hardboard
6 mm thick across the width of the base of the circular saw.
Pull the disc away, lift the protective cover and stick the cut piece to the base with double-sided tape. Turn on the saw and slowly plunge the blade into the hardboard for a zero-gap kerf. Then saw with a small feed on the basis received.

Note: Be especially careful as the saw blade is open!

2. Set the saw on the line for an accurate cut

Spend a few minutes on making this template in the workshop, and the necessary precision cuts will be available anywhere. The fixture shown in the picture was designed for boards with a width of 150 mm, but it is not difficult to adjust the design to any required size or angle.

Make the jig with a slight allowance, then press the circular saw against the stop and saw off the edge of the base to the final length.
The sawn edge of the fixture defines the line along which a circular saw should make a cut.
Put a mark on the board where you want to cut it, press the bottom stop of the fixture against the edge of the board and align the edge of the base with the cut mark. By passing the saw through the fixture, it is possible to cut boards with amazing accuracy.

3. Finding a simple guide

How to make a straight cut with a portable circular saw? Of course, you can buy an expensive guide in the store or make it yourself in the workshop if you need to cut a lot of sheets. But there is an easier solution: make it from scraps that are lying around in the corner of the workshop.
Choose to make a factory edge strip of plywood or hardboard with a width of 250-300 mm for the manufacture of the guide. Fasten the strip along the cutting line so that saw base moved along the flat edge. If a foam backing is used to protect the saw blade, make cutouts in it for the jaws of the clamps.

4. Homemade cutting attachment for a circular saw

Clean and straight cross cuts can be difficult to make with a portable circular saw. It is almost impossible to guide the tool perfectly straight, and pieces of material usually fly off, leaving behind unsightly chips and split edges.
I suggest doing it yourself inexpensive fixture for cross cuts of several pieces of wood and aluminum angle. Assemble the base, for which, to the top side of a piece of chipboard or plywood measuring 18 × 300 × 1220 mm, glue and tighten with screws a pair of parallel planks measuring 25 × 50 mm.
Using countersunk screws, attach to the planks parallel at a distance equal to the width of the base of the circular saw, aluminum corners at an angle of 90 °. Adjust the saw so that it cuts through the planks and makes shallow cut at the base.
Fasten the fixture with clamps on the workbench, insert the workpiece under aluminum rails and make a cut. If the saw does not slide well along the guides, then a thin layer of paraffin or silicone spray help move it more smoothly.

5. Template for installing the guide

When to make long cuts with a portable circular saw, you have to spend a lot of time and take many measurements to set a straight guide against the marking line in exact accordance with the width of the saw base.
To simplify this procedure cut out the template from fiberboard (hardboard), equal in width to the distance from the edge of the base of the saw to the inner edge of the saw blade. Then cut the template to the length of the saw base. To use the template, align its edge with the cut mark on the workpiece, and attach a straight guide to the other side and secure it with a clamp.
Repeat this procedure on the second kerf mark on the other side of the workpiece to be sawn. Similar patterns can be made for jigsaw or milling cutter.

When you have your own house or suburban area, then a static circular saw will be an excellent assistant for you. With its help, you can quickly and efficiently carry out complex work on cutting various products. Such a tool can be purchased if the budget allows. Or you can create your own. It is also important to have the necessary equipment for it.

A circular saw. concept

A circular saw is a special saw that allows you to quickly and evenly cut wood products, plywood, laminate and various boards.

There are household and professional models. The first can function with pauses. Their engine needs breaks of 15-20 minutes. They do not withstand significant loads.

The latter have more powerful engines. They can work intensively for a very long time. Therefore, they are usually used in production.

For use in personal households, household modifications are used. And keeping professional versions is unprofitable.

The level of work and their types are determined by the bed of this tool.

About bed elements

Devices for different. The main one is the bed. If the power of the saw is insignificant (no more than 1.2 kW), it is easy to build such a bed yourself. Its length is affected by the length of the material going to the cut.

The Bosch electric drill is suitable for the drive, its parameter is 0.85 kW. It is mounted under the stove with a special bracket.

The accuracy and evenness of the cut is better when the workpiece rests entirely on the table surface. And if the table has too large parameters, it will fill the entire working area. We need an average here. The height is selected according to your height, so that it is more convenient to work.

Materials and tools

Bakelite plywood with a minimum density of 5 cm is bought for the table.

In addition to it, you will need:

1. Board 5 x 10 cm.
2. Bars 5 x 5 cm.
3. Clamps.
4. A set of self-tapping screws.
5. Glue and varnishes.
6. Manual circular.
7. Electric jigsaw.
8. Manual cutter.
9. Drill.

Making a table

When you need to assemble fixtures, the first step is to create a bed. It consists of a base and a tabletop.

The design of the second element is influenced by the fastening structure of the working disk.

The process of creating a key attachment for a circular saw takes place in several stages. They are outlined below:

Creating legs

The assembly of a complete fixture for a circular saw is not limited to the indicated stages.

For the legs you will need a board 5 x 10 cm. Their height is 1-1.2 m.

The board is cut along the longitudinal vector. In this case, a slight angle is observed on one side.

The legs fit on the table top. During installation, they should be slightly apart.

They are attached outside the stiffeners. Fastening method - bolted. To strengthen their stability, you will need screeds. They need a 5 x 5 cm bar.

It is placed in the previously created groove from the bottom zone of the countertop. The sole is fixed with bolts. The disc is placed in the slot.

The table is varnished in 3-4 layers. This is a measure against moisture.

Turning on and off

The assembly of the main attachment for the circular saw is almost complete. It remains to establish the launch and shutdown of the tool. The simplest solution here is this - the start key is pulled together with a wire, and the saw is turned off by the mains wire.

A more complicated method - this key must be shunted. And the control buttons are displayed on the outer plane of the front stiffener.

The miter saw attachment is especially useful when you need good cross cuts.

Such a device can be made independently using the proposed technology:

1. The base is being assembled. Two parallel strips 2.5 x 5 cm are glued to the upper zone of plywood with parameters 1.8 x 30 x 122 cm. They are attracted with screws.
2. Corners are attached to them (their material is aluminum). Fixing method - countersunk head screws. Mounting angle - 90 degrees. Fastening occurs in parallel at a distance identical to the width of the saw base.
3. The tool is adjusted to cut the planks to a shallow depth at the base.
4. The device is fixed with clamps. The workpiece is placed under the corners. A cut is made.

If the saw does not go well, this area can be smeared with paraffin, but with a thin layer.

Long cut question

Creating a fixture for a hand-held circular saw that will help you make long cuts is relevant for many home craftsmen. It makes the job remarkably easy.

Its easy to make. DVP is taken. A sample is cut from this material. It is identical to the distance from the extreme side of the tool base to the extreme part of the disk from the inside.

When cutting, you need to rely on the length of the base of the tool.

The edge of the sample is aligned with the designation of the cut on the workpiece. A straight piece is applied to the second side. This is a guide. It is fixed with a clamp.

On the second marking, this operation is duplicated, but on the opposite side of the workpiece.

To create a template, it is best to use a router or a jigsaw.

If chips are obtained from the disc in work, you can not do without the following device for a hand-held circular saw, assembled by yourself.

Technology:

1. The hardboard element is cut out. Its density is 6 mm. When cutting, you need to focus on the width of the base of the tool.
2. The disk is removed. The protective cover is raised. The result of step 1 is attached to the base with double-sided tape. After that, the saw starts. The disc fits smoothly into the hardboard. It turns out zero clearance in work.

Sawing should be done with a slight return on the created base.

tenoning device

The tenoning device for a circular saw increases the efficiency and accuracy of the production of tenon-and-groove joints. They are involved in the assembly of various carpentry products: furniture, doors, frames, frames, etc.

With this device:

1. Workpieces are located without distortions.
2. Operations are repeated scrupulously.
3. The end result is of high quality.

Such a device can be purchased or made on your own. Experts recommend the first option. This is a full guarantee of achieving excellent results.

Often buy these models: Felisatti FTJ and Festool VS 600 GE.

This is a reliable and proven technology.

sharpening question

The circular saw should be sharpened when the following symptoms appear:

1. It becomes harder to work with her.
2. It leaves black marks on the material.
3. There is a foul odor and smoke.

Ideally, it should be sharpened on a professional machine. If not, you will need a tool for sharpening circular saws.

Necessary set for work:

1. Vice.
2. File with a flat functional side.
3. Bar.

You should work with gloves.

Sharpening steps:

1. Hard drive fixation. It is removed from the saw and fastened in a vise. In this case, wooden dies are used. You can leave it in the saw, but stick a bar between its teeth. The bar rests on some surface.
2. The initial clove is marked.
3. The back of the tooth is processed with a file. They need to swipe it several times. The effort is small. Each tooth is sharpened in turn. At the same time, the movements are uniform, the number of file passes is the same.
4. The anterior parts of the teeth are being processed. The principle is the same.

The points of the teeth should be perpendicular to the surface of the disc.

Then all the teeth are inspected for defects. Edges must not be shiny. If so, they are smoothly filed.

After that, the disk is checked in the case. It is placed in a saw. She turns on. A test block is used. If the saw is light, smooth and quiet, then the sharpening is of high quality.

Otherwise, you need to check the height of the teeth. To align them, you need to bring the marker to the working edge. Then the disk must go through the entire revolution in the opposite direction from rotation. All teeth are marked. On it you can align their height. The highest teeth are carefully processed with a file.

Conclusion

A circular saw is a very useful tool in the household. But it becomes even more effective if it is provided with the necessary devices.

A hand-held circular saw, or a circular saw as it is commonly called, is a versatile and valuable tool in the arsenal of a craftsman. It is irreplaceable when performing carpentry and joiner's works. The main task is cutting sheet material, as well as transverse and longitudinal cuts of lumber. The design of a saw allows to receive the exact line of a cut.

A circular saw is used for cutting sheet material, as well as transverse and longitudinal cuts in wood.

To improve accuracy and facilitate the performance of work, various devices and equipment are produced.

For all their merits, they have a fairly high cost, which is not affordable for everyone. And sometimes they are difficult to buy and deliver to the right address, especially in areas remote from large cities. Therefore, the logical way out of this situation is to make the necessary device for the circular with your own hands.

Devices for working with a manual circular saw can be very diverse: from primitive disposable stops to very complex and versatile devices. And if for the manufacture of the simplest fixtures it is enough just to pick up even pieces of thick plywood or boards of the required size, then more complex equipment will already be made using tools.

Materials and tools

The material from which devices for a circular saw are prepared can be selected from scraps of thick (at least 10 mm) plywood or hard wood (for example, birch) at hand.

Of the tools you will need:

• joiner's square for measuring and marking blanks;
• electric jigsaw or hand circular saw (for cutting blanks);
• drill (drilling mounting holes for fasteners);
• screwdriver or screwdriver with a set of bits for installing fasteners.

The process of manufacturing fixtures for a circular saw consists of several stages:

• a sketch is developed and detailing is thought out;
• material is selected;
• marking and cutting of the material;
• assembly and, if necessary, adjustment of devices.

Back to index

Guide for circular saw

The simplest device is a guide bar. You can easily get a straight cut. For manufacturing, you need an even straight bar of the required length. It, with the help of self-tapping screws (if allowed) or clamps, is attached to the material being processed. Fastening should be carried out at such a distance from the required cutting line that the position of the saw blade coincides with the markings when resting on the bar with the side sole of the circular saw. For a one-time cut, this method is suitable, however, when repeating the same type of operations, the procedure for marking and installing the bar will need to be repeated each time.

The guide bar can be improved by fixing it on a sheet of durable plywood 6-8 mm thick. One edge of the sheet when working will be aligned with the cut line. At a distance equal to the distance between the saw blade and the edge of the sole of the circular saw (working distance), a guide bar is attached to the plywood with self-tapping screws. When working, it will only be necessary to combine the working edge of the plywood sheet with the cutting line and fix the opposite edge with clamps.

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Pull-out protection: device nuances

The simplest devices can also include a bar fixed at the exit point of the saw blade from the workpiece. This will avoid such an unpleasant effect as chips and tears. And if these defects do not play a role on the boards being cut, which will be used to make the frame of the house or formwork, then the cut must be even and clean during the production of carpentry.

For the manufacture of more complex universal devices, tools and a certain amount of materials will already be needed. The time spent on their manufacture will later more than pay off with ease of work, accuracy and ultimately saving the same time.

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Accessories

1. Blank template. If it is necessary to manufacture the same type of parts, you can use one of them as a guide template. To do this, a workpiece of the required length is cut off and a stop rail is fixed at one end. The width of the rail must match the working distance. When working with this device, the stop rail must fit snugly against the end face of the workpiece. So you can get a large number of parts of absolutely the same length without wasting time on marking the cutting line.
2. Cutting corner. For permanent use, you can make a cutting square. It consists of two massive wooden or plywood slats, fastened with self-tapping screws overlapping in the shape of the letter “T”. The length of the protruding ends of the “T” bar is aligned to match the working distance of the circular saw. Setting the leveled end of the crossbar against the marking line will allow you to get an accurate perpendicular cut.
3. Edge stop. The corner (edge) emphasis is a part of a standard complete set of a circular saw. It allows you to cut parallel to the edge of the material being processed. Using a self-made edge stop, due to the extended and longer base, you can get a cleaner and more accurate cut.

To make an edge stop, a stop rail and a base for a circular saw are cut out of 15 mm thick plywood. Keyways are selected in the base and thrust rail using a manual milling cutter. The dowels themselves are made from scraps of hard wood or from the same plywood and are attached to the grooves of the thrust rail. To reinforce the stop at an angle of 90 °, another rail of sufficient width is fixed to the stop rail, which will rest on the workpiece. Adjustment of the cutting distance from the edge of the workpiece is carried out by moving the stop rail along the guides, followed by fixing with a locking screw.

To install the screw in the base, a through groove is sawn through. To increase the cutting accuracy and increase the safety of work, it is recommended to use two screws. A hole is made in the base plate for the saw blade and a mounting system for the circular saw is installed. The design of the mounting system can be very diverse and will depend on the specific brand of saw. A common point for all options should be the reliable fixation of the circular and the possibility of dismantling it from the fixture after work is completed. For the convenience of setting the required width of the cut of the material, a measuring tape is fixed on the front surface of the fixture base.

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Device for cutting beams

For cutting a large number of identical bars, it makes sense to make a device called a saddle. It consists of three parts connected in the form of the letter “P” (back and two sidewalls). The width of the backrest must correspond to the width of the sawn timber. The width of the sidewalls is chosen so long that they can provide sufficient support for the edge of the sole of the circular saw before the saw blade enters the workpiece material. Also, in the sidewalls, it is necessary to provide grooves or holes for reliable fastening of the fixture on the processed timber using clamps.

Work with this device is carried out as follows:

• cut line is marked;
• at a distance equal to the working distance from the cutting line, the device is set and fixed;
• the beam is cut by moving the circular along the side surface of the fixture.

The advantage of this device is that there is no need to reconfigure when cutting a beam that is thicker than the saw blade overhang. To do this, two passes of the saw are made from opposite sides.

The design of the device for working with bars can be slightly improved by analogy with the modernized guide bar. To do this, bars are attached to one or both sidewalls at a distance equal to the working one, which serve as an emphasis for the sole of the circular. Thus, the edge of the side piece will coincide with the required cutting line.