Step by step bathroom renovation. Do-it-yourself bathroom renovation: video
Do-it-yourself bathroom renovation is an extremely topical issue. There are many reasons to start repairs: plumbing equipment has broken, the integrity of old tiles, the bath has lost its original luster or just wanted something new.
As practice shows, one attempt to change something in the interior leads to the need to change everything, thus arranging a major or cosmetic repair. But whichever one you decide to do, doing it all yourself will save you a decent amount of money.
Since the bathroom is a room that is regularly exposed to changes in temperature and humidity, buy poor quality materials it is forbidden. Otherwise, you will not be able to avoid repeated repairs.
Required repair steps:
- Calculation and selection of building materials - calculation of the required amount building materials, selection suitable option finishes.
- Dismantling of the old coating - cleaning the premises from old tiles, plaster, tiles, plumbing.
- Upgrading communications - ventilation, sewerage, electrical wiring, plumbing.
- Floor - a screed is being made, tiles or linoleum are being laid, plumbing installation.
- Walls - selection of materials and finishing of wall coverings, installation of sockets.
- Ceiling - ceiling finish, lighting.
- The final stage is the installation of furniture, a bathroom or shower stall, etc.
Calculation and selection of building materials for do-it-yourself bathroom renovation
If you have roughly decided on the amount of expenses required for materials and plumbing, and you think that counting each tile or bag of glue is not needed, then you will be very surprised to find out the exact figure. As practice shows, it can be several times higher than previously planned.
In order not to make a mistake when calculating the required number of panels, tiles, cables, fasteners, mortars, you should take all dimensions and enter the data into the project. In this case, the exact cost of the upcoming repair will be clarified.
An example of a scheme for counting tiles for wall cladding:
On the diagram, it is necessary to indicate all the walls separately, according to the perimeter indicators and draw a “grid” with the dimensions of the ceramic tiles. Thus it will become clear exact amount finishing materials. In addition, one should not forget that when cutting and laying tiles, a part may be damaged. For this reason, 5% must be added to the total result. In the same way, the amount of porcelain stoneware for the floor, decorative elements, and ceiling panels is calculated.
The cost of sanitary equipment, finishing material, furniture can be found on the websites of online stores or in specialized outlets, but keep in mind that interior trends and fashion are changing, and the selected product may not always be in stock. You need to take care of its purchase in advance.
Do-it-yourself bathroom renovation: preparatory and dismantling work
It doesn’t matter what kind of repair needs to be done, major or cosmetic, it all starts with preparatory work. The first thing to do is to completely empty the room and leave only the drainage system and the sewer riser. The walls are cleaned from the old coating (tiles, tiles, whitewash, etc.) to the concrete base. The surface must be cleaned as efficiently as possible without plaster or mortar residue.
It may seem that breaking is much easier than building, but it is not. If the tilers did their best when decorating the room, it will be very difficult to dismantle the tiles from the walls and floors. You may even have to borrow or buy a hammer drill.
If the bathroom has a ventilation box, it will also need to be removed and replaced in the future with a new one made of plastic or drywall.
The next stage is the installation of communications
These include:
- water pipes;
- sewerage;
- wiring;
- ventilation.
One of the most difficult stages is dismantling cast iron pipes, which can still be found in old houses. Instead, it is desirable to install a pipeline made of polypropylene, as it is inexpensive, durable and resistant material which is perfect for the bathroom. Certainly, steel pipes more affordable, but they can corrode, for this reason they have a short service life.
Work begins with plumbing. It will be necessary to carry out an eyeliner to all places of water intake:
- washing machine;
- wash basin;
- bathtub or shower.
To work with PVC pipes you will need to acquire special soldering equipment. As a rule, many hardware stores provide them for rent.
Tip: when laying the pipeline, we must not forget about important details- plugs, water meters, overhead taps, outlets for washing equipment.
In order for the water to leave freely, the installation of sewer pipes should be carried out as low as possible. Therefore, for showers with a low-lying descent, you will need to install a podium. The minimum angle of inclination is 5 o.
In addition, you should consider the option of masking pipes. You may need to ditch the walls or build drywall boxes. Also, an electrical cable is mounted in the walls, having previously drawn up the layout of lamps, sockets and electrical appliances.
The ventilation shafts are usually not touched, but the exit grate can be changed, as it should be in harmony with the surrounding finishes.
Do-it-yourself bathroom renovation: floor insulation and waterproofing
Repair work in the bathroom begins with a screed device. Its height will depend on the type of insulation. In the event that additional thermal insulation is not provided, it is necessary to take into account only the thickness of the tile - 1-1.5 cm. When installing the "warm floor" system, the screed technology will resemble a pie, in the middle of which the heating system will be placed. The total thickness of the screed in this case will be at least 3-4 cm.
Tip: there are several screed options - wet (the best option for rooms prone to high levels of humidity), semi-dry (has a filler that facilitates the overall load) and dry (categorically unacceptable for bathrooms).
Procedure:
- treatment of the base (concrete slab) with a deep penetration primer;
- installation of beacons with an interval of 60-80 cm, using a level;
- creating a sand-cement or concrete mixture;
- filling the floor area between the beacons with mortar, leveling;
- dismantling of beacons, grouting irregularities;
- covering the floor with a film, drying.
Insulation is used to insulate the floor. Mineral wool not suitable, because it has properties that are not necessary for this room - high hygroscopicity. But sometimes it is used, while carefully isolating from the influence of moisture. Most good option- Styrofoam. As a rule, it is laid on the base in front of the screed device, having previously been reinforced with a reinforcing mesh. Similar functions are performed by flexible and elastic foam.
Tip: as a waterproofing in kitchens, bathrooms, toilets, materials such as a cement-polymer coating, a film with a thermally reflective layer, and a liquid silicone membrane are used.
A more comfortable option is the "warm floor" system, which can be performed in different ways:
- Water - a flexible system of metal or plastic tubes, heated by centralized (boiler) heating.
- Film - infrared design with a thermostat and electrical wiring.
- Electrical - assembled from heating components powered by electric current.
Any of the systems described above optimally affects the microclimate in the bathroom, while being easy to install and inexpensive.
Do-it-yourself bathroom wall renovation: modern materials
Tiles (ceramic tiles made of baked clay) are traditionally used to finish the bathroom, but often the process can be reduced in price by using plastic panels or plaster for painting to finish the walls. Before choosing any option, you should familiarize yourself with each of them in more detail.
Tile
A variety of ceramic tiles makes it possible to choose any option, from budget to exclusive. Hardware stores offer bicottura, monocottura, mosaic, monoporosa and majolica for internal works, including durable porcelain stoneware, which is excellent for both bathroom decoration and building facade cladding or stairs.
Tip: collectible ceramics is in the greatest demand, which is a set of floor and wall elements, panel, decor and border.
The price of a tile will largely depend on the manufacturer. The highest quality and, accordingly, expensive tiles are made by Italian brands:
- fundovalle;
- Rex Ceramiche;
- Gardenia Orchidea;
- Robert Cavalli;
- Vitrex and others.
The second place in terms of cost and quality is given to Spanish manufacturers of ceramic tiles. Cheaper options can be offered by manufacturers in Poland, Ukraine, Lithuania, Russia, Belarus.
Before laying the tiles, you need to plaster the walls, which will make them perfectly even, and then perform priming and, after drying, apply a layer of waterproofing mastic.
The sequence of finishing the bathroom with your own hands. Video
- According to the applied markings, ceramic tiles are laid.
- Removing excess adhesive from seams.
- Applying grout.
Together with the usual classics, seamless tiles are also actively used. All components of such a collection do not have a chamfer at the edges, so visually wall covering looks monolithic.
PlasticPlastic panels are considered the most successful alternative to tiles, as they are immune to high level humidity, easy to install and do not require special care.
Along with the traditional white product, there are many options in a different range of shades; monophonic under the "stone", with a bright ornament, with floral compositions or geometric shapes, with a metallic coating.
Tip: to achieve a complete look in the interior, use the same plastic panels, make a screen under the bathtub / shower stall and create a box for communications.
With the help of plastic wall cladding will not take much time. Sometimes one evening is enough. If the walls are even, then the panels are fastened by liquid nails or brackets, but mounting on a profile is best. Installed first profile frame(crate), and panels are already attached to it in turn.
During installation, it is likely that some of the products will have to be cut off in the corners, so you need to buy plastic panels by 1-2 pieces more. In addition to the panels, you will need to purchase a guide profile, fasteners (self-tapping screws) and a plastic corner to mask the gaps.
Decorative plaster
Modern decorative plaster tolerates well wet air, chemical and detergents, so it is ideal for decorating the walls in the bathroom with your own hands.
The main condition for its application is smooth walls. Usual building mixture not suitable for alignment. Here you will need a sanitizing plaster, which has good waterproofing properties.
Tip: to create original style together with color schemes, the “cracked surface” effect, stencil ornament or hand-painted are often used.
Today, Venetian is in great demand among buyers - smooth plaster, which has a wide range of shades and a glossy finish. It does not absorb moisture and retains its original appearance for a long time. Has similar properties structural plaster, the texture of which retains water. But it also has negative properties. The fact is that the impurities of iron and lime contained in tap water, one way or another, after some time, will spoil the aesthetic appearance of the wall covering.
Do-it-yourself bathroom ceiling repair. Video
The design of the ceiling will largely depend on the finish of the walls, the floor and the overall style concept. Today, simple plaster is rarely used, as it limits the possibilities for arranging lighting. They were replaced by different variations of suspended structures, which are divided into such types as:
- tension.
The shape of the panels is also different: in addition to wide and narrow rails, square and rectangular plastic modules are used.
Tip: "metal" or mirror plastic is not suitable for rooms made in French or classical style, however, for high-tech or art deco bathrooms, it is more than appropriate.
Suspended plasterboard structures make it possible to create multi-tiered ceilings and experiment with the location of light sources. We must not forget that the levels are good in those rooms where there is enough space and there is no likelihood of a strong lowering of the ceiling.
To work in the bathroom, a special moisture-resistant drywall is made, in which the surface is painted green.
Tip: one of the most common options for a suspended structure made of drywall is a box with lighting, installed along opposite walls (sometimes along the perimeter), and the middle remains intact.
Also suitable for finishing the ceiling in the bathroom is a vinyl elastic film used for tension structures. Although its installation will reduce the height of the ceiling by 7-10 cm, visually it will appear higher. However, on a glossy film, unfortunately, traces of condensation will be visible. If the dimensions of the bathroom and the height of the ceiling allow, it makes sense to choose matte surface, which will go well with plastic or tile and hide moisture.
Advice: ideal option for the bathroom is considered polyvinyl chloride. It does not lose color, it is stable high humidity and direct contact with water, easy to clean.
Completion of works
When the do-it-yourself bathroom finishing work is completed, you can proceed to install the bathroom, furniture and connect related equipment. As you can see, do-it-yourself repair is a difficult task, requiring some skills and preferably experience, but, nevertheless, informative and interesting. In addition, turning to specialists, you will have to give them half the amount allocated for repairs.
If you want to know how and what you can fill the bathroom with, check out this video:
From this article you will learn:
- What is the best way to start a bathroom renovation?
- What are the features of dismantling old communications and decoration
- How to properly install plumbing for a bathroom renovation
It's no secret that the bathroom occupies an important place in the apartment. Of course, it needs periodic repairs, because a large amount of water is spilled in this room every day, in addition, changes in humidity and temperature are not uncommon. To rationally organize finishing work, you need to know where to start repairing the bathroom. We will talk about this, as well as the correct repair sequence, in this article.
How to decide where to start your bathroom renovation
Bathroom renovations can be divided into 2 types:
- Unplanned. Such repairs are necessary under force majeure circumstances, for example, a pipe burst in the bathroom, neighbors flooded the apartment. Also, unplanned repairs include the replacement of the bath itself, since in most cases this will entail the installation of new pipes, plumbing, tiles;
- Planned. In turn, the planned renovation of the bathroom, depending on the complexity and financial costs, is divided into major and cosmetic. The second option is to start and make it easier and cheaper, but this repair can only be carried out with serviceable plumbing and plumbing, and you also need to make sure that there is no fungus. At cosmetic repairs change floor, wall and ceiling coverings, as well as update faucets. For a more global repair, although not a major one, serious preparation and a systematic approach to work are needed.
If you want to start renovating a bathroom in your home, first think about how it should be, how it should look. Initially, you should decide which color scheme will prevail in the room, since the renovation involves choosing a specific layout and color scheme. Before your eyes you should have a clear vision of the future room. Common shades of the bathroom in Moscow are blue and blue, peach and beige, as well as plain soft colors.
- tile;
- porcelain stoneware;
- mosaic;
- plastic panels.
If you decide to change plumbing equipment, start by choosing a new fixture option, having studied everything in advance.
You need to start taking measurements of the room, write down the width, length and height, calculate the area. A plan drawn up in advance will also help you determine the location of all devices. It is difficult to change something at the end of the repair, so everything needs to be thought out initially.
The choice of plumbing and finishing materials for renovation in the bathroom
Having decided to renovate the bathroom on their own, the owners think about where to start and purchase new plumbing equipment and finishing materials. However, one of the most important steps in starting a repair is to determine colors, calculation of the required amount of finishing materials and the choice of brand and type of devices.
Before repairing and buying plumbing, you need to make sure that it fits your room in size and color.
It is best to purchase all appliances and finishing materials in one store, as when purchasing a large number of goods, you can be offered a good discount. To start a bathroom renovation, it is preferable to purchase everything in advance, as it will be inconvenient to look for missing materials, again wasting time.
How to start a bathroom renovation
Repair should begin with dismantling the room. The best option - nothing remains in the bathroom except concrete walls and floor to ceiling. The help of professionals in dismantling or changing sewer pipes and hot and cold water systems can also come in handy.
- Dismantling tiles
- Dismantling of plaster
- Dismantling in a concrete sanitary cabin
- Dismantling the screed
- Removing paint from walls
The old plaster of the Soviet era is the easiest to move away from the walls of the bathroom. It is distinguished by a thick layer of cement. To start dismantling it, any tool that can work as a lever is useful, it is not necessary to have a puncher at home. Parsing such a tile does not take much time, it moves away from the walls very easily.
It is also easy to dismantle tiles laid with lime for painting. Any tool, such as a chisel, is useful for this.
The most difficult thing is to start dismantling the old tiles laid on the mortar without an expiration date. This is a very strong and reliable material that keeps very tightly in the bathroom. It is especially durable if the previous repair was done in good faith and the master soaked the tiles with high quality. In this case, you will often think about which tool will be more effective for quick dismantling.
A puncher in the case of such a tile will not be very useful in the sense that it does not completely dismantle it, but only crushes it into a large number of small pieces that will be scattered throughout the bathroom. Most the best option to start parsing such a tile will throw a fragmentation grenade into the room and more than once. Next, a broom will come in handy to remove all the fragments, and the same perforator to complete the work with those parts that have not moved away from the walls.
Only the owners will have to disassemble the plaster brick walls. If prisoners or prisoners began to lay bricks in a room, then this layer can reach many meters. This is, of course, a joke. But a layer of five centimeters can be found easily. Therefore, it is necessary to devote more time and effort to this dismantling and start collecting unnecessary durable garbage bags. Here it should be borne in mind that it will not work just to dump the trash in trash cans, you will need to call in special equipment and loaders.
It is worth noting that when parsing the plaster, which is the support for the bricks, the walls can easily fall apart, so you should be careful.
In all concrete panel houses built until 1998, there is a sanitary cabin. In Soviet times, builders glued the mosaic directly into the concrete of the cabin, and it holds very firmly. In order to start dismantling this tile, you will need a chipper or concrete breaker.
If the mosaic cannot be removed, we can offer you 2 options for further repair.
First: start by degreasing the surface, then apply Betonokontakt, install a masonry mesh on top and fill it all with a leveling screed.
Second: the dismantling of the entire plumbing cabin. This stage of repair includes not only the demolition of the walls. The floor and ceiling also need to be dismantled. Then the repair will begin, one might say, anew - the construction of new walls, then pouring the floor and stretching the ceiling. And as a result of our actions, we will get an extra square meter in the bathroom. Given the price per unit area, this repair point is justified.
If you rejected the proposal to dismantle the bathroom in your repair, then most likely you will have to start solving another problem - what to do with the baseboard. Concrete plinths are part of the cabin structure. They are horizontal (along the perimeter of the floor) and vertical (at the corners from floor to ceiling). These skirting boards are very strong and with rebars with a diameter of about 10 mm.
The dismantling of the concrete plinth is carried out using a jackhammer or perforator. You need to start with perforation along the entire length of the skirting board. The fittings will need to be cut out with a grinder.
You can, of course, cut the plinth with a grinder, completing it diamond disc. But in this case, there will be so much dust that it is hard to imagine.
Depending on the number of repairs that the bathroom has experienced, you can make an assumption about the number of layers of screed. These layers are material on the history of the room's renovation.
After removing the tiles from the bathroom floor, you can see cracks in the screed. You also need to pay attention to whether the screed is “booming” - after knocking on its surface, a sound can be heard, as if you are hitting a hollow object. Such a sound indicates that the screed is not adhered to the floor slabs, therefore, it is necessary to start dismantling it. The screed layer can be quite thick. You should be especially careful when doing this work - sometimes water supply pipes pass under the screed.
Also in Soviet times, there was a tradition regarding concrete walls - the color of the bathroom should be blue. The paint was applied in a very thick layer, comparable in strength to slate. It is said that several coats of this paint are capable of withstanding an AK-47 burst, and that the components of this paint are used to create bulletproof vests. But back to dismantling.
You can start with the most effective of the paint removal options - its dissolution. But the disadvantage, or rather the danger, chemical method that there is a high probability of inhaling reagents during work.
Other dismantling methods are safer, but more difficult and longer. For example, you can start to separate the paint with an ax. Such a cutting will save the wall from the interfering coating by 60–70%, but to achieve such a result, more than one thousand blows will have to be made.
It is easier to use a puncher - loaded with a wide chisel, it is able to remove from 80 to 90% of the wall surface. If the bathroom paint does not hold well, then you can start work with a drill bit equipped with a crown (used when creating niches for socket boxes) without a centering drill. The teeth of the crown dig into the paint well and remove it from the bathroom wall.
If the walls of the room were covered with drying oil before painting, then the paint can only be removed with a perforator.
How to start piping and overhauling a bathroom
If you've started a bathroom renovation, you don't have to take the equipment at random and think that everything will fit anyway. Initially, you need to think over a plan for future wiring. It doesn't seem to be very milestone and there is no need for it. But it is with the help of the plan that it is possible to calculate everything, determine the location of the plumbing equipment and select the necessary finishing material and other elements.
First you need to make a list of those materials and equipment that you plan to place in the room. To start doing this, you need to know all the dimensions and parameters of the bathroom. It is also important whether the bathroom and toilet are located separately or together. If they are separate from each other, then the wiring plan must be drawn up for two rooms, since their communications are very closely related and do not exist separately.
After you have decided which plumbing fixtures you need, you need to mark which ones you need to run pipes to.
Plumbing fixtures, valves and meters must be present in a competent bathroom piping plan.
The classic pattern is:
- Any type of bath or shower. Both hot and cold water supply, as well as sewerage are carried out here.
- Wash basin. Hot and cold water supply plus sewerage are supplied.
- Bidet. This part is connected to the cold and hot water and sewerage.
- Toilet. Connected to cold water supply and sewerage.
- Washing machine. Sewage and cold water supply are supplied.
The scheme of the basis of the future project will be the next step. It is necessary to make all calculations, measurements and build a diagram based on them. The scheme is best drawn in a suitable scale on graph paper.
All measurements must be very accurate to create a good competent scheme. Plumbing fixtures are measured in the same way. The dimensions of the appliances are needed for their exact completion in the bathroom.
There is one interesting method for those who have not yet decided how to specifically arrange all the plumbing equipment in the room. Given the scale of the constructed scheme and adhering to it, you must begin by placing on paper the scheme of all the appliances that you intend to place in the bathroom.
To do this, you can cut out all the devices from paper and approximately place them on the diagram in search of the best option layouts.
There is a certain sequence of placement of all appliances in the bathroom. It must be taken into account when drawing up a wiring plan. For example, a toilet should be closest to the riser.
It is also important not to forget a few nuances. The toilet is installed first from the sewer riser. It is best when the toilet outlet is connected directly to the riser using a fitting. A large distance between the toilet and the riser, as well as the presence of turns, can lead to blockages and will periodically make themselves felt.
most the best prevention blockages will be the location of all drains from plumbing fixtures so that the used water passes through the pipes, following the toilet drain.
A low-drain shower stall and a bathtub should also be as close as possible to sewerage. This is necessary to avoid slope problems. The remaining devices according to the scheme can be placed in the bathroom as it will be most convenient.
Important study everything in advance specifications and documents for connecting all equipment before starting to install them. With a typical connection, when a single-level installation of the pipeline and the axis of the sewer outlet of the device is implied, there should not be any difficulties. However, if a non-standard connection is provided, it is necessary to read all the information again and take into account new features.
Once you have installed all plumbing fixtures, you can begin to bring pipelines suitable to them. Here it is important to adhere to the initially constructed scheme and its scale, only in this way it will be possible to correctly install the piping in the bathroom.
When placing all the equipment and running all the pipes, do not forget that the doors should open freely, and each device or element could be easily used.
How to choose the type of wiring for utilities when repairing a bathroom
Before starting a wiring project, it is best to familiarize yourself with the options for such schemes and choose the most suitable for you. There are not so many of them, there are three types, but one with pass-through sockets is very rare, so we will not touch on it.
It is also possible to install a shut-off valve in each outlet of the collector. In this case, it will be very convenient to use.
This can be explained as follows. When several taps are turned on at once, the water pressure will not fall. All consumers will be able to function in the maximum mode.
If for some reason the pressure has become less, you can solve this problem by briefly turning off the water supply for one consumer (for example, to the toilet bowl). Then the rest plumbing equipment water pressure will increase.
In use, the collector type of wiring is more convenient than serial. It rarely has problems with water pressure, since each consumer has a separate line. But this system requires some effort in design and installation.
An important point can also be noted that in the collector type of wiring it is possible to replace or repair individual equipment without turning off the water in the entire bathroom. This system is more reliable, since each consumer is connected using a separate pipe without other unnecessary elements.
If any problems begin with one of the devices, a leak can only be noticed at the collector or device itself, in these places it will quickly be detected. Therefore, installation can be carried out safely by a hidden method.
Ease of use is also a plus. If one of the consumers is damaged, you do not need to look for the cause by climbing under the sink and disassemble the entire system. It is necessary to call specialists and close the shut-off valve on the collector of damaged equipment that has leaked.
This can be done by anyone, both the elderly and the very young child. If one of the devices is turned off, the rest will function properly.
The nuances of installing wiring when repairing a bathroom
When distributing plumbing pipes, you need to start by choosing one of two installation options: open or hidden.
Laying pipes in a screed, when the parts are covered from above concrete mortar, is another example of a hidden gasket.
Creating strobes, whether cutting or sawing, is not an easy job. Therefore, you need to start by drawing lines on the bathroom wall where the strobes will pass. Then you need an accurate calculation of the dimensions of the niches for the pipes.
The main advantages of such installation are the security of pipes and the aesthetic appearance of the room. Conclusions of pipelines are located in the floor or on the walls, they are made in the form of sewer sockets / water outlets. Engineering communications are not visible.
Of the significant disadvantages, we highlight the high cost of work, its laboriousness, as well as the inability to control the condition of the pipes.
Sometimes there is a need to supply communications to the bath, which stands at a great distance from the wall, for example, in the center of the bathroom. In this case, you will have to start with an idea of \u200b\u200bhow to hide sewer pipes under the floor. But due to their large diameter, it will not work to put them in a screed, since it will come out high and will have a lot of weight. Floors may not withstand such a load, so the best way out of this situation is to build a so-called podium. Enough space underneath engineering communications rooms; the design of such a podium is block or frame.
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Step-by-step instructions for repairing a bathroom and toilet.
To start repairs in the apartment, according to most finishers, you should definitely start from the bathroom. I will explain why: this is the dirtiest and dustiest part of the repair, requiring not only the dismantling of old tiles, plumbing, doors, and sometimes the entire walls of the bathroom.
We remove the old
So the first thing we do is we take out the old plumbing: a bathtub, a sink, a toilet bowl ... In short, everything that costs, weighs, lies.
Next stage: we cut off with the help of a grinder all the old pipes to the tap located on the riser.
Using a perforator, we knock down the old tile.
It is important if the plaster under the tile moves away from the wall, bunit ... it must also be beaten off.
We dismantle old door along with the box.
We change the risers. Now we turn our attention to the water and sewer risers. This is a very important part of the repair and it is necessary to change them. After the renovation it will be very problematic. If you are not a specialist in plumbing work, then to replace the risers, it is better to invite qualified craftsmen, but you can do the internal plumbing yourself.
Checking the hood. Let's move on to the extraction. If we do not want the bathroom to be stuffy, we need to check the operation of the hood. To do this, we bring a burning candle to the hood and evaluate its work by the tongue of the flame: the better the hood works, the more intense the flame is sucked into the chimney pipe. If the hood does not work correctly, we either clean it or install a fan in it.
Preparing walls and floors
We prime the walls. At the next stage, I suggest a good clean up: take a broom and sweep out all the debris and dust from the bathroom. After all the dust has settled, we take a deep penetration primer and prime the walls.
Installing beacons. After the primer has completely dried, we install beacons for further plastering of the bathroom. Lighthouses must be installed strictly according to the level, observing the plane of the wall and maintaining 90-degree angles.
Plastering the walls. Beacons installed? Let's get to the plaster. To do this, we need a rule, a spatula, a drill and a mixer nozzle for a drill. Bathrooms are plastered, as a rule, with dry gypsum mixtures, since there is no shortage of them on the market. I usually use Rotband plaster. We take a bucket of 12 liters and prepare a solution in it as written in the instructions. Using a spatula, we throw a solution between the beacons of one wall 50 centimeters from the floor. Then we take the rule, press it to the lighthouses and pull it up - we get a flat surface. We remove the excess from the rule. And so on all the walls - from the floor to the ceiling. There are not large pits left, it does not matter - then we level it with a spatula. If everything is smooth and beautiful, then you have coped with the task.
Leveling the floors. The next step is the floors. We level them with the help of "self-leveling floors". We dilute the mixture as stated in the instructions, even a little thinner, and spread it all over the floor with a spiked roller. After drying, the walls and floors, just in case, we check by level, we eliminate unevenness.
We make a detailed plan of the bathroom. At the next stage, we must decide on the design of the bathroom, where? as? and at what height? there will be a bath, a sink, a mirror, a washing machine (if any), a towel dryer, a toilet bowl, a box covering the risers. To do this, we take a tape measure and measure our bathroom - after plastering, the dimensions have changed. Then we take a pencil and a sheet of paper, and sketch everything. Let's call it a bathroom plan. In order for the plan to be accurate, at this stage, we need to buy all the bathroom objects. It is important to remember: if the bathtub is tied to the size (I mean that your bathtub is not half a football field, but for example 1m.70cm by 1m.50cm), then you need to buy a bathtub as long as possible. And if your size is 1m.68cm. - you need to buy a bath for 1m.70cm. Then 2 cm. let's go through. This seems to have been sorted out.
Video - turnkey bath repair
We make (draw) a detailed marking of the water supply and sewerage. If everything is purchased, then we continue. We collect a bath in a free room. We put it on its legs and level it. As a rule, for most bathtubs, the height of the legs is adjustable - we adjust the height for ourselves. We measure the height and width of the bath. We transfer the dimensions to the wall in the bathroom. All the same - we do the same with the sink and washing machine. The next thing we do is mark on the walls how we will have water supply and sewerage. The bathroom faucet is usually installed in the center 10 cm above the bath - this should also be sketched on the walls. The distance between the pipes leading to the bathroom faucet should be 15cm. We mark the plumbing for the sink, based on the structural features of the bedside table, and the length of the flexible hoses of the mixer. We mark only one pipe under the washing machine - cold. We sketch the sewer pipes at an angle towards the riser (so that there is a drain). If a small slope can be made under the bath and sink, then under the washing machine the output should be at a distance of 50 cm. from the floor.
Making (drawing) a detailed layout of electrical wiring. The next thing we do is determine the electrical wiring. How many sockets will we have, and where - if there is a washing machine, then next to it. Use an electric razor - next to the mirror. If you have a backlit mirror, you will need to bring a wire under it (decide at what height). There will be a fan - we bring it out under it.
We make strobes. When we have completely decided and sketched, we take a perforator and gouge according to the plan. Next, we clean up and primer the strobes.
We install plumbing and sewerage. At the next stage, we mount the water supply (comb) and sewerage. Don't forget to install water meters and filters as well. Since our water supply is retracted into the walls - use better pipes from polypropylene or metal-plastic pipes.
We mount a heated towel rail. At the next stage, we invite craftsmen or install a heated towel rail ourselves. Pipes are also mounted in the wall.
We mount the box. So we are left with closed risers and we fix it. We assemble a box from a metal profile and sew it up with drywall. Drywall must be moisture resistant - it Green colour. Also, do not forget about the technical hatch, you will need it to have access to the taps and the meter. Then we install a perforated corner on the corner of our box and plaster the entire box.
Priming the walls and floor. As a result, what we see is a completely plastered bathroom, without visible pipes and wires. Once again, we look at everything in detail for the presence of irregularities. If there are any, we fix it with a spatula and sandpaper.
Laying out the floor. Now lay out the floor tiles. For this we need - a drill, a mixer, a bucket, an ordinary spatula, a notched trowel, a professional tile cutter, crosses (1.5-2mm.).
We lay out the tiles so that all the cut edges are under the bathtub and sink. So in sight we will have only a whole tile. Do not forget to use the level and insert crosses.
We lay out 1 row of wall tiles under the bathroom from the floor. Then you will need to lay 1 row of wall tiles under the bathroom - for waterproofing. If you use a small tile, then 30 centimeters from the floor will be enough.
We wipe the tiles under the bathroom (wall, floor).
Installing a bath. It's bath time. We bring the bath, set it strictly according to the level and length and width. Let's break down the bath.
Laying wall tiles. Laying out wall tiles. We start right from the bath, from the most prominent corner, and drive in a circle. From the sides of the bath, you need to drill the slats so that all the tiles go on the level. Finish the top, remove the slats and report the bottom. Let the tile dry and remove the crosses.
We clean the seams.
We overwrite the seams.
We mount the ceiling. Now we need to decide what we will do with the ceiling. There are several options: putty and paint, suspended from plastic panels, tension. They are all good in their own way, you choose.
We install the door. It's time to install the missing plumbing - sink, washing machine, toilet, faucets, bath screen.
It remains to hang a mirror, put sockets and the bath is ready.
This order of work will prevent you from making the most common mistakes, where the quality of the work done suffers, and sometimes leads to redoing.
Happy repair!
A small bathroom is a common problem in apartment buildings. But even these 3-4 sq. it is quite possible to turn it into an oasis of comfort and relaxation, if you use design tricks. By choosing correct finish, plumbing and furniture, you will see that it was not the narrow area that caused the tightness, but only the illiterate placement of things. Our recommendations will help you correct mistakes and make your bathroom comfortable and tidy!
Small bathroom remodel. Where to start?
The first thing you need to decide at this stage is to make the bathroom combined or separate.
By removing the partition between the toilet and the bathroom, you can slightly expand the area and save on finishing materials. But, firstly, this will require permission from special authorities; secondly, important communications (water or sewer pipes, ventilation ducts, electrical wiring); and thirdly for big family a shared bathroom would be very inconvenient from a practical point of view.
As for the separate bathroom, in this option the only drawback will be that both rooms often turn out to be very tiny and there simply will not be room for a separate washstand in the toilet. In this case, you can use a compact sink, placing it, for example, in a corner, just above the drain tank.
You can also add a little extra “squares” to your small bathroom by reducing the hallway or corridor.
Finishes and materials for the bathroom
Taking a bath or shower, everyone can observe how much steam and condensate is formed in the air. This means that absolutely all materials for finishing a small bathroom must be waterproof and resistant to temperature changes.
Floor
At first glance, it might seem that concrete base in the bathroom it is enough to tile with tiles and its repair will be finished. But this is far from the case - under the top decorative layer It wouldn't hurt to do some more work. So, the “warm floor” system will provide a comfortable temperature, and a dense layer of waterproofing will save angry neighbors from visiting in the event of a flood.
The ideal structure should look like this: concrete slab covered with a bituminous primer, a polymer waterproofing film is glued to it (its edges are lifted onto the walls at a height of at least 15 cm, and the seams must be overlapped and firmly fused together), fine-grained quartz sand, heating elements are laid, and then ceramic tiles are attached to the tile concrete adhesive. It is desirable that it be large and light, but at the same time slightly rough, because on wet glossy glaze it is easy to slip and get injured.
Walls
For wall decoration in a small bathroom, you can use ceramic tiles, plastic panels, painting, fake diamond or waterproof wallpaper.
The first step is to properly plaster the surface and apply a quality primer. You can also level the surface with aquapanels.
From paints, it is desirable to use non-toxic water-based (acrylic, silicone) and water-dispersion compositions. It is better to refuse traditional oil ones - as they dry for a long time, emit the smell of acetone and quickly crack under the influence of temperature.
Ceiling
The best choice for decorating the ceiling in a small bathroom is a stretch film with a mirror effect. It is absolutely resistant to water vapor (you only need to occasionally wipe it with a sponge) and will last at least ten years without losing the original aesthetic appearance. In addition, such a ceiling will help minimize backfire flooding.
If needed budget repair, then you can stop at painting, but it will have to be updated every year.
Another good way to finish the ceiling in the bathroom is plastic paneling (siding). For the frame under them, only a stainless metal profile should be used.
Bathtub or shower - what to choose?
V small bathroom, where it is difficult to allocate space for a spacious bath, without a doubt, it is worth giving preference to a shower cabin. Moreover, there are models equipped with deep jacuzzi trays, so lovers of romantic bathing with candles and rose petals will not be offended.
In addition to significant space savings, the cabin reduces water consumption. Given the rising bills for public Utilities is a big advantage.
The presence of ventilation above the shower will quickly remove moisture and minimize the ingress of condensation on the finish outside.
And if you still want to lie in the water to your full height, then the owners of small bathrooms should pay attention to corner and curved bathtubs.
Arrangement of furniture, appliances and accessories
Thoughtful placement of plumbing and furniture will make even the tiniest bathroom comfortable as well as practical.
Sink and toilet
To save space, it is advisable to choose a washbasin not semicircular, but small rectangular or square, but with high sides. Such a sink can be mounted in a cabinet.
If possible, the toilet bowl should be hidden in the wall, leaving only the flush button outside. If this option is not possible, you can buy a corner or tall narrow tank.
Washing machine
A compact side-loading washing machine can be built into any free niche: under the sink, boiler, in the corner between the bathroom and the wall or above the toilet. It is only necessary to provide an insulated outlet nearby and discreetly hide the pipes.
In order not to spoil expensive plumbing, it is better to drain dirty water directly into the sewer hole.
Cabinets and shelves
To store things in a small bathroom, you should make the most of the vertical space - put tall cases, hanging shelves, towel dryers.
For shampoos, gels, foams and other hygiene products in the side parts of the bath, you can equip door shelves on brackets that open at an angle of 45-60 degrees, or you can make narrow horizontal shelves with sliding screens.
Another interesting idea is a retractable shelving unit. You can fold clean towels in it, and they will be well protected from moisture.
Small bathroom lighting
In a small bathroom, you can get by with one or more light sources, but in no case should it be a hanging chandelier.
It is also worth abandoning conventional incandescent lamps - they get very hot during operation and can burst if splashed with water. Under these criteria, LED lamps are best suited.
To create a more romantic atmosphere in a small bathroom, you can use neon ribbons, spotlights for shelves and niches, as well as luminescent elements on the floor.
Choosing an interior style
To make the interior look harmonious, before starting repairs in the bathroom, you need to choose the style that the owners like the most. It will promote relaxation and improve mood every time during water procedures.
Small bathroom in modern style
Clear symmetrical shapes, the absence of unnecessary details, monochrome tones, chrome or glossy finishes will create the impression of conciseness and completeness.
Small classic bathroom
Shades of ivory, sparkling porcelain and shimmering gold floral ornaments - a royal bathroom for true aristocrats. The abundance of light and brilliance will perfectly cope with the task of increasing the space.
Small bathroom in Provence style
In this decor, French romance is intertwined with rustic freedom and simplicity. Pastel shades are used - lavender, greenish, blue, pale pink. Of the drawings, small, dim flowers are allowed. Furniture should have a slightly vintage look, such as scuffs on light paint.
Small bathroom in loft style
The loft is characterized by bare walls, imitation of stone or brickwork(preferably grayish white), high whitewashed ceilings, no decorations. Suitable for freelance artists, bohemians, as well as those who despises the ordinary and appreciates freedom.
Small minimalist bathroom
Space-saving and compact forms are the ideal solution for a small bathroom. Everything you need is hidden in the cabinets, creating an atmosphere of lightness and spaciousness.
Small bathroom in Scandinavian style
The snow-white color with small patches of gray and black is reminiscent of northern mountain rivers or ice-covered peaks. Such an environment is perfectly refreshing and also energizing. Finishing in unobtrusive colors and without any bright details will visually increase the area of the room.
Color solutions for a small bathroom
To ensure the integrity of the interior, for finishing a small bathroom you need to use no more than three colors that are close in saturation. It is advisable to leave dark, contrasting, voluminous things and drawings for some spacious halls or outdoor pools.
white bathroom
gray bathroom
The shimmering overflows resemble a clear stream running from the peaks between the stones. Surrounded by mirrors and chrome-plated metal, the light gray color will help relieve stress after a hard day at work and return cheerfulness in the morning.
blue bathroom
The shade of sky and water is the most soothing. It makes you breathe deeper and seems to fill the whole space. fresh air. This is the perfect frame for a white bathtub and sink. Breaking up such a magical duet with "spots" of other colors is a real crime, in extreme cases, you can add a little bit of silver accents.
green bathroom
When foliage is reflected in the river, the water appears greenish. In the same palette you can find shades sea waves, iridescent bluish-turquoise with golden reflections from the depths. A similar design in a small bathroom will give rest to the eyes and relaxation to the body.
Design of a small bathroom in Khrushchev
In Soviet apartments, you can most often see a one-meter toilet and a cramped bathroom, the area of \u200b\u200bwhich does not exceed 4 sq.m. But even in such conditions, you can show ingenuity.
Bathroom renovation has long been part of our plans, since the last time it was done 15 years ago. During this time, the bath turned yellow, the sewer pipes clogged, the tiles began to fall off, the plumbing was covered with an indelible coating. Therefore, we saved up money, counted the amount of material, gathered our strength and began to repair.
However, first things first. First, we turned to repair specialists. Our bathroom is located in an apartment in a house built in the Khrushchev era, when the party and the government were faced with the task of quickly resettling Soviet citizens. Therefore, no one cared about comfort, the main thing was to give people a lot of housing, more modest yes smaller size. For example, our bathroom, together with the toilet, has a size of 1.5 by 1.8 m. And for the repair of this small area, local craftsmen asked for an amount that could hardly fit in our heads.
Of course, they can also be understood. There is no work in the provinces (namely, where the house of the Khrushchev era is located), so people who did not leave to protect the capital and know how to do at least something, took up the repair of apartments and private houses. And since there are few such people, the demand for their services is high. Prices have skyrocketed, so even for the repair of a small bathroom they ask for big money, by the standards of the same province. As if the Kremlin Palace is going to be restored. And the quality of work leaves much to be desired. Even our Uzbek friends no longer want to receive a reward, for which a couple of years ago they were ready to work hard from morning to night.
For comparison, you can view the work of the capital's masters at the builders' exchange VotMastera.ru. Prices are an order of magnitude lower than those offered by local repairmen, and the quality of the work performed can be judged both by photos and customer reviews.
In general, having assessed the volume and specifics of the upcoming work, we decided to do the repairs ourselves. And the money that could go to the wages of the workers, we will spend on the boards and make it in the country, and even there won’t be any left. In this article we will tell you in detail how we did the repair, attaching a lot of photos.
DIY BATHROOM REPAIR
First of all, let's define the scope of work. We decided to make a complete renovation with our own hands, replacing everything that is there: a bath, a toilet bowl, a sink, a battery, floor and wall coverings. Everything except, which we recently mounted.
First, remove the cabinets and shelves, unscrew the screws on which they were held, remove the sink. As a battery, we hung a heated towel rail, curved like a coil. We will change it too.
If you plan to replace the radiators, then you need to carry out repairs at the time of the year when there is no water in the radiators. Carefully cut off the heated towel rail grinder.
Now let's break the tile. To do this, we use a perforator with a nozzle in the form of a spatula.
Water was supplied to the bathroom polypropylene pipes. Let's turn off the tap and dismantle the entire pipeline together with the mixer. In order to have water supply, we will attach a flexible hose to the tap and we will use it during the repair with our own hands.
There is a ventilation window under the ceiling, in which a fan was mounted and connected to electricity. Under it there is another entrance to ventilation shaft, where the tin box coming from the kitchen is inserted.
Next in line is the bath. We disconnect it from the sewer and take it out of the room.
The sewerage laid in the bathroom has been in operation since the construction of the house. It's made from cast iron. Carefully, using a small sledgehammer, knock out the pipes from the entrance to the sewer riser.
The last to dismantle the toilet. It was connected to a cast-iron elbow, which is inserted into the sewer riser. To take out this knee - I had to suffer. They've done it right before. But there is still no reception against a sledgehammer and scrap. Just tap on the knee carefully, cast iron is a fragile material. Knocked, twisted - pulled out.
The floor was covered with ceramic tiles. During the repair, we also dismantled it using a perforator, having cleaned the floor to a cement screed.
INSTALLATION OF THE WATER PIPE IN THE BATHROOM WITH YOUR HANDS
The plumbing, which we dismantled during the renovation, ran over the wall. From the condensate that collected on it, it turned black. To prevent this from happening again, we will hide it, where possible, in the walls. To do this, we will make strobes in the places where we plan to install the pipe with a perforator with a nozzle with a spatula. The depth of the strobe should be slightly greater than its diameter so that it can be completely plastered. This work is quite dusty, so we recommend closing cracks under the door with some material. In several places, the strobe needs to be enlarged so that the pipe fastening to the wall can be inserted.
For the installation of water supply, we chose pipes made of polypropylene. This is a modern, reliable and durable material with a long service life. To connect them, a special soldering machine with metal nozzles is used. different diameters. It works like this: we heat the device, at the same time insert the pipe and the coupling into the nozzles, wait until they melt and connect them together. After a few seconds, when the material has cooled down, the connection is ready for use.
Before installing the plumbing in the bathroom with our own hands, we carefully measure all dimensions, calculate the number required couplings, corners, stopcocks and fittings. If the connection needs to be made detachable, we use special “American” fittings. With their help, part of the system can be separated without destroying it. We plan to install a water meter. Just in front of the meter and after it, we use “Americans” so that we can replace it if necessary. We will provide for the installation of a main filter for water purification. We solder the shut-off ball valve so that you can turn off the water before replacing the cartridge.
After the renovation in the bathroom, we will have 3 water points - one near the sink, the other - at the bathroom, the third - at the toilet. To two points we will bring cold and hot, to the toilet - only cold. After we fix the polypropylene in the strobes, we screw the valves to the fittings and supply water. It is necessary to check the system for leaks before we start plastering and tiling. In our case, everything turned out to be normal, you can start. But before that, we will make more small strobes to hide in them electric wires. The bathroom had an outlet that was too high off the floor. During the repair, we will lengthen the wiring and lower it lower.
WALL PLASTER
First, we will plaster the window between the bathroom and the kitchen. From the side of the kitchen, it is already patched up, we will do the same in the bathroom. To do this, cut off the height of the opening aluminum profiles, fix them on the frame with screws.
Prepare the solution according to the instructions written on the packaging with the dry mix. Put it on a wide spatula and plaster the window.
To make it easier to lay ceramic tiles on the walls, they must be leveled. If the unevenness is large, you can use plaster beacons by setting them vertically in level. After that, we cover all the strobes with a mixture, then we completely plaster everything.
INSTALLATION OF TILE ON WALLS
To decorate the walls in the bathroom, we chose rectangular ceramic tiles. After waiting three days for the plaster to dry, we proceed to laying.
We will not tile under the bathroom. Let's start with the second row. So that it does not move out, we fix the rail along the entire length. Prepare the glue by mixing the dry mixture with water of the desired proportion with a mixer. We put it on the wall with a spatula, level it with a comb over an area equal to the size of one or two pieces and apply the tile, slightly pressing on it.
After laying the tile, wipe it off the adhesive residue. Then we take the grout of the desired color, stir it with water and gently rub the seams with a rubber spatula.
Next, we will fasten the “American” detachable fitting to it, we will attach the heating pipe to it.
To lay the pipe to the place of its installation,
INSTALLATION OF HEATED WATER FLOOR
On the bathroom floor, we decided to make a heating system. To do this, during the repair, we laid a welded mesh on a cement screed, attaching it to the floor with dowels and screws.
We connect the metal-plastic to the heating system using special corners and fittings. At the entrance to the water heated floor, we will install a valve to regulate the water pressure and a Mayevsky tap. At the exit we will put a shut-off valve. This is done so that you can completely turn off the warm water floor during a possible accident.
After we connect everything into one system, we fill the base of the bathroom with self-leveling properties. Pour the contents of the bag with the dry mixture into a container with water and mix thoroughly with a mixer. Be sure to maintain the proportions indicated on the packaging, otherwise the manufacturer of the mixture does not guarantee the declared strength of the self-leveling floor. After pouring the mixture onto the screed, roll it with a spiked roller to expel air bubbles.
After the rest, we proceed to the final stage of repair. In ventilation holes we will install decorative elements and an electric fan by connecting wires to it.
The self-leveling floor is dry, so ceramic tiles can be laid on it. Here the technology is the same as when laying it on the walls. We stir the glue, apply it to the base, level it with a comb spatula, lay the tiles.
Wait a day for the glue to dry.
Connect the water supply to the entry point. Immediately after the tap, we will install a water meter, after it - the main water purification filter.
The renovation is slowly coming to an end. Already n the time has come . It is installed on the frame that comes with it. Acrylic bathtubs are a modern industrial product. They are lighter than steel and cast iron, retain heat longer, are silent and practically do not fade.
First we assemble the frame, then we fasten the legs to it.
Next, we put the floor cabinet along with the sink, connecting the tap to the water supply system, and the drain to the sewer pipe.
To install the toilet, you need to make marks in the places of its attachment to the floor,, insert plastic dowels into the holes and fix it with bolts, putting decorative plugs on top of them.
We hang a wardrobe and a shelf for toiletries on the wall. We connect the shelf to the electrical network.
Bottom acrylic bath close the screen, hang the curtain.
We glue skirting boards on the ceiling, hiding the bumps.
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