Which pipe is better for the oven. What are furnace pipes and how to install them? Purpose and design features

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A do-it-yourself chimney for a stove can be erected if there is a layout of its masonry at hand, and home master possesses at least minimal skills in the work of a bricklayer. The construction of this department requires no less serious approach than, since the efficiency of heating, the safety of those living in the house, the total life of the entire heating facility.

When working on a chimney, it must be remembered that its internal surfaces must be as neat and even as the external ones, since this factor directly affects the creation of good traction.

Varieties of brick chimneys

Chimney pipes are divided into types depending on the location of their installation relative to the furnace itself. So, they are root, mounted and wall.

• The most common design of a brick chimney is a wall-mounted one. It is installed directly on top of the heater and is its continuation. Such chimneys are often installed during the construction of a heating or bath stove.

• The second most popular is the root chimney. This type of pipe is distinguished by the fact that it is installed next to the furnace or is included in its design and is placed on one of its sides.

Root pipes can be installed for both brick and cast iron stoves. In addition, one root structure is often used for several heating appliances. For example, in a two or three-story house, one chimney is passed through all floors and furnaces are connected to it. If it is planned to use the pipe in this way, then in this case, an accurate calculation of its parameters must be made, otherwise there will be no normal draft, which means that the efficiency of the furnaces will also decrease, and the risk of combustion products entering the premises will increase.

• The wall pipe is built into the main internal or external walls. But, in the latter case, the walls of the chimney will have to be very well insulated, since due to the large difference in external and internal temperatures, condensate will actively collect inside the duct, which will significantly impair the operation of the furnace, reducing draft and contributing to the rapid growth of the chimney with soot.

It should be noted that although this construction is distinguished separate view, it can be both root and mounted.

Construction of a brick chimney

The chimney has several sections. To understand its fundamental design, we can take the structure of a packed pipe as an example, since it is most often chosen by development engineers when drawing up furnace ordering schemes.

So, the design of a packed pipe with its passage through attic floor and truss system, includes the following departments and elements:

1 - Metal cap or umbrella. It can have a variety of forms, but its function is always to protect the interior of the chimney from the penetration of precipitation. different kind as well as dust and dirt.

2 - The head of the pipe consists of bricks protruding outward, which will protect the neck of the structure from raindrops that will flow down the protective cap. The metal umbrella is fixed, including on the protruding parts of the head.

3 - The neck of the pipe.

4 - Cemented or otherwise waterproofed inclined surface of the otter, designed to drain water that has fallen on the neck of the pipe.

5 - Otter. This part of the structure has thicker walls than the pipe neck. The otter should be located at the point where the chimney passes through the rafter system and the roof. The thick walls of the otter will protect the combustible materials of the crate under the roof from overheating.

6 - Roofing material.

7 - Lathing of the truss system.

8 - Rafter.

9 - Pipe riser. This department is located in the attic of the house.

10 - Fluff. This part of the chimney starts under the ceiling inside the house, passes through the attic floor and ends in the attic, just above or flush with the floor beams. The fluff, like the otter, has thicker walls than the neck and riser of the pipe. Increased thickness also protects against overheating wooden beams and other combustible materials of the attic or interfloor ceiling.

It should be noted that in some cases, instead of fluff, a metal box is mounted around the pipe in its place, filled with non-combustible materials such as sand, vermiculite or expanded clay. The functions of this layer, having a thickness of 100 ÷ 150 mm, are also the protection of combustible floor materials from overheating.

11 - Floor beams.

12 - Insulation, which is most often made from asbestos, is in any case necessary to create fire safety, since the walls of the chimney will come into contact with the wood of the floor beams and other materials that make up the floor and ceiling.

13 - Smoke damper, located in the room, in the upper part of the pipe, which allows you to adjust the intensity of the discharged streams of heated air and combustion products.

14 - The neck of the pipe, which begins at the top of the furnace - the ceiling.

Calculations of the parameters of the chimney pipe

The principle of operation of the chimney system is the movement of air masses from the combustion chamber to the exit to the street, that is, from the lower point to the upper one. This process occurs through the creation of traction, which occurs due to temperature and pressure changes. It is thanks to all these factors that the normal functioning of the chimney system is carried out.

To create optimal aerodynamic processes, the size of the pipe channel must correspond to the power of the furnace, which, in turn, largely depends on the size of the furnace. The surfaces of the internal chimney space must have smooth walls, along which the air flows will slide freely without turbulence, and due to this, there will be no reverse thrust. That is why quite often a tab from a round ceramic pipe is built into a brick square chimney, which has an absolutely smooth surface and does not have internal corners.

Section size

In connection with the factors mentioned, it is necessary to carefully calculate the internal size of the chimney, while taking into account its length, since the larger this parameter, the higher the draft in the pipe.

Of great importance for the creation of normal traction and the high-quality functioning of the heating device is the correspondence of the parameters of the chimney passage and power, as well as the size and number of channels provided for by the design and passing inside the furnace.

If the parameters of the internal dimensions of the chimney in the cross section exceed the calculated value, this will lead to a rapid cooling of the heated air in it and the formation of condensate, and hence a decrease in thrust. In this case, the necessary balance will be violated, and the streams cooling in the upper part of the pipe may return down, creating smoke in the room.

The size of the chimney opening is calculated as follows:

• The size of the chimney of an open hearth fireplace corresponds approximately to the proportions of 1:10 (chimney section (f) / firebox window area (F)). This formula is generally valid for both a square or rectangular, and a cylindrical type of pipe, but not directly, but taking into account the cross-sectional shape of the channel and the total height of the chimney.
• The size of the chimney of a furnace with a closed combustion chamber has a proportion of 1:1.5. In the case when the heat transfer of the heating structure is less than 300 kcal / h, then the cross section usually has a size of 130 × 130 mm or half a brick (at least). When making calculations, it must be taken into account that the cross-sectional size of the chimney should not be less than the inlet of the blower.

When calculating the fireplace chimney, you can use the following table.

Pipe height H, m		5	6	7	8	9	10	11
		f/F ratio in %
Pipe section	Round	11.2	10.5	10	9.5	9.1	8.7	8.9
	square	12.4	11.6	11	10.5	10.1	9.7	9.4
	Rectangular	13.2	12.3	11.7	11.2	10.6	10.2	9.8

Pay attention to the direct dependence of the chimney cross-section not only on the parameters of the furnace, but also on the height of the pipe. Probably, sometimes in the calculations it will be more expedient to build on this parameter. For example, a pipe 11 meters high on a one-story country house will look absolutely ridiculous.

The same dependence, but more accurately represented in the form of a graph.

Suppose you need to calculate the cross section of the chimney for a fireplace with a firebox, the window dimensions of which are 500×700 mm, that is, the total area - 0.35 m². It is assumed that a pipe with a total height of 7 meters.

• We look at graphic scheme:

- for a circular section of the chimney, the optimal ratio f/F=9.9%;

- for square - 11,1% ;

- for rectangular - 11,7% .

• It is easy to calculate the optimal cross-sectional area of ​​​​the chimney channel:

- a circle: 0.35×0.099 = 0.0346 m²;

- square: 0.35 × 0.11 = 0.0385 m²;

- rectangle: 0.35 × 0.117 = 0.041 m².

• Now, using the simplest geometric formulas, it is easy to bring areas to linear dimensions:

- diameter round pipe: d = 2×√S/π = 2×√0.0346/3.14 ≈ 0.209 m = 210 mm.

- side square pipe: a = √S = √0.0385 ≈ 0.196 m = 196 mm.

- a rectangle can have different options - for example 0.130 × 0.315 m or 130×315mm.

The calculation will be much easier if you use the calculator below, which already contains all the mentioned dependencies.

We do not imagine homes without heating. Our concept of comfort unconditionally includes suitable temperature regime. In a private house central heating no, and the problem of heating each owner .

We welcome our regular reader and bring to his attention an article about chimneys for furnaces - an absolutely necessary component of any heating system, be it a stove, a modern fireplace or a boiler with automatic fuel supply.

Chimney - a vertically located pipe that discharges hot flue gases of the fuel in the heating unit into the atmosphere to a height sufficient to create draft in the duct and disperse toxic combustion products away from windows and ventilation ducts.

Principle of operation

The principle of operation of chimneys is based on the phenomenon of expansion of hot gases, a decrease in their density and, accordingly, the rise of lighter gases upwards.

Flue gases rise up, a vacuum is formed in the furnace and more cold air- there is a phenomenon of traction.

How is the chimney

The main part of any chimney is a vertical pipe structure. Structurally different from modern prefabricated counterparts from ready-made modules factory made.

The traditional brick chimney includes the following elements: neck for connection with the furnace, riser with valves, slope, otter, neck (at the point of passage through the roof), headband, sometimes a metal cap.

Homemade chimneys made of metal or asbestos cement include pipes, caps, adapters for connecting to the furnace, and insulation.

Most modern views chimneys - ceramic and from. The ceramic structure consists of an external expanded clay concrete frame, an internal prefabricated ceramic pipe, and a layer of insulation between them. The ceramic and sandwich structures themselves include the following blocks: straight, for collecting condensate, tees, cleaning modules, transition elements for connecting heating units. An integral part of a modern chimney is a deflector.

Types and designs

The design features of the chimney primarily depend on the material from which they are made.

According to the material of the chimneys are:

• brick;
• reinforced concrete (usually industrial);
• asbestos-cement;
• of steel;
• ceramic;
• three-layer metal - two layers of steel with a heater from mineral wool between them.

By design, chimneys are:

• indigenous - the design has its own foundation;
• wall-mounted, built-in bearing walls building;
• mounted - light pipes are mounted on a vertically located outlet pipe of a boiler or fireplace (and a potbelly stove);
• often lightweight structures are simply suspended from the supporting structures of the building;
• coaxial - arranged according to the "pipe in pipe" principle. The most common example is the horizontal gas outlets of gas heating boilers. Used in devices with closed camera combustion and provide maximum safety for residents. Save fuel consumption. Recently appeared vertical structures Shidel systems that take air for combustion on the roof of the house (just below the head).

Which is better to choose

The choice of a chimney largely depends on the parameters of the installed heating unit (design, temperature, type of fuel used), the degree of readiness of the house (we modernize an old house with a stove and a wall pipe, the house is only “in the project” or the supporting structures have already been installed, or there is already a finish); heated volumes.

Peculiarities various types chimneys are shown in the table:

Table 1

Name	Advantages	Flaws
brick	Robust and high temperature resistant masonry construction, durability depending on the liner material.	Difficult installation requiring highly qualified masons; heavy weight, the need for a foundation; long installation time, the need to replace the insert approximately every 10 years. When working with modern boilers and fireplaces, brick without an insert can collapse in just 10 years. Wall structures can only be mounted during the construction of the house.
Ceramic	Service life up to 50 years, smooth inner surface, high installation speed; high acid resistance, good thermal insulation; withstand temperatures up to 550°	Expensive option; installation requires some qualification, there is a need for a foundation; fragility
Steel single-layer (and asbestos-cement)	Smooth inner surface, light, inexpensive, fast installation, easy repair; resistance to corrosion and condensation	Requires insulation; when passing through structures made of combustible materials, large retreats are required; they burn out in 10-15 years, there are no components - during installation you will have to do all the elements yourself. Galvanized will last five years (or less)
Steel type "sandwich"	Long service life, smooth inner surface, light weight, quick easy installation, easy repair, high resistance to corrosion and condensation; can be installed / hung outside the building; good thermal insulation	Fairly expensive items.

It is not worth using flexible steel corrugation - they burn out very quickly.

Despite the price, it is worth choosing modern ceramic chimneys or "sandwich". If necessary, they can be mounted both in the finished house and outside the house, they are durable, easy to assemble, resistant to high temperatures, well insulated, and have a large assortment of ready-made factory elements.

If you want to use an old wall box from a regular heating furnace- it is necessary to insert a stainless steel insert and insulate. But perhaps you should choose a sandwich - less hassle.

Do it yourself or order

You can do it yourself some elements for the installation of single-layer pipes or lay out a brick structure (if you have the skills of a qualified bricklayer).

But the installation of prefabricated structures - this will help save a considerable amount from the family budget. You will have to pay a lot for the services of a qualified team - the amount is comparable to the cost of materials. There is a risk of running into unskilled workers.

When deciding whether to do the work yourself, you need to carefully analyze your capabilities:

• how accessible is the roof;
• Do you have friends or relatives who can help?
• do you have a fear of heights;
• What are your qualifications in performing repair work.

Building regulations

The arrangement of chimneys is determined by the provisions of SNiP 41-01-2003.

The design of the chimney must meet the following regulatory requirements:

• the minimum height must be at least 5,000 mm or grate;
• when located on a roof slope at a distance of less than 1.5 m to the ridge - the pipe must be 500 mm higher than the ridge;
• when located on a roof slope at a distance of 1.5-3 m to the ridge - the pipe must not be lower than the ridge;
• when located on a roof slope at a distance of more than 3 m to the ridge, the angle between the horizontal and the line passing through the ridge and the top of the pipe should be no more than 10 °;
• head should rise above flat roof to a height of at least 1,000 mm;

• the maximum length of each horizontal and inclined sections should not exceed 1000 mm, the total length of their projections on the horizontal should not exceed 2000 mm. In the presence of oblique and horizontal sections, it is necessary to lengthen the pipe by the length of the horizontal projections. For ceramics, the presence of horizontal sections is not allowed.

Fire safety requirements for chimneys

The distance from the surface of chimneys made of ceramic, insulated steel and asbestos-cement to combustible structures of the house must be at least 250 mm; for brick chimneys and sandwich pipe structures - at least 130 mm.

Need to protect building construction from combustible materials using cement or gypsum plaster on a grid with a thickness of at least 25 mm.

If the roof covering can burn (roofing material, shingles, ondulin), or leaves, fluff can accumulate on it - a mesh spark arrestor should be installed on the head.

Remember that the quality of smoke removal depends on the life and health of your loved ones.

Traction force

Factors affecting traction force:

• pipe height;
• the state of the surface of the internal channel - the regularity of cleaning from soot, the roughness of the walls;
• the presence of inclined or horizontal sections. The presence of horizontal and inclined sections is undesirable, since the lengthening of the chimney is undesirable - the gases will be cooled, the draft will decrease up to overturning;
• deflector installation;
• quality of insulation;
• air supply to the furnace.

Your safety depends on the traction force, therefore it is necessary to regularly check the presence of traction and take measures to clean the channel from soot, the pipe head from ice.

Making and installing a chimney with your own hands

What materials are better to make

The easiest to install are steel structures. Single-layer steel products require insulation and the manufacture of components - in general, work for pathological workaholics, and here we will not consider their installation.

Installing a chimney from a sandwich pipe is quite simple, the presence of a large number of various elements and components in stores allows you to assemble a device of any configuration.

Drawing and diagrams

Before starting work, determine the dimensions and draw a diagram or drawing - this will help to correctly calculate the required amount of materials and properly organize the work.

Size calculation

The height of the pipe is determined in accordance with the requirements of SNiP 41-01-2003, but should not be lower than 5 m from the grate. The diameter is taken equal to the diameter of the outlet of the heater.

Installation video

Watch our video - it will help you see all the intricacies of the assembly process.

Mounting Features

Installation starts from the stove or fireplace. The first starting element is mounted on the nozzle of the boiler or furnace. This element does not have insulation for technological reasons (alt-free filler melts and sinters into stone). All elements are designed in such a way that one of its ends has a smaller diameter and is inserted one into the other, as into a socket. One of the docking options is to pull out a little inner tube, insert into another inner tube. Press down. Then drop down on it outer pipe with a heater, press down. Fasten the connection with a crimp collar, tighten it with a bolt and nut. All joints must be sealed with sealant.

Then a tee is mounted, modules with a cleaning hatch and a condensate trap are mounted from below. There are designs for installing the lower part of the chimney on the floor.

Then mount the rest of the structure. After a meter, the sandwich is attached to the wall with special brackets. An element with a cleaning hatch should be installed on each floor and in the attic.

It is advisable to connect the elements of the chimney “through condensate” - the pipes are mounted in such a way that the upper one is inserted into the lower one and the condensate cannot seep through the joints, but flows down the walls into the trap.

An element with a gate is mounted under the ceiling.

The passage of the pipe in the ceiling is covered with a galvanized sheet and filled with insulation. The distance to the structures must be at least 130 mm.

The most difficult stage in the installation is the passage of the roof. Mark the hole in the right place on the roof. Make a hole in the roof. A roof sheet is attached from the inside, a roof cutting is installed on the roof. It is selected depending on the angle of the roof. The cutting edges lead under a sheet of roofing material.

If necessary, install extensions. Install deflector.

Common errors and installation problems

The most serious mistake– lack of a condensate collector and elements with hatches for cleaning.

In places where structures pass through floors, it is strictly forbidden to install joints individual elements– Escaping hot smoke can cause a fire.

A very significant mistake is the absence of a deflector or at least a cap over the chimney.

Snow and rain should not get inside the pipe - they increase the formation of condensate, ice can block the cross section of the pipe.

Maintenance and cleaning

Any chimney requires regular cleaning of soot. This will avoid fires, reduce traction. Cleaning should be done twice a year.

There are two cleaning methods - mechanical and chemical.

In a chemical furnace they burn special means. They burn at a very high temperature and accelerate the wear of the inner walls of the chimney, so it is better to use mechanical cleaning methods for a sandwich.

Icicles and ice from condensate can freeze on the head - they block the section of the box and reduce draft, which increases the risk of carbon monoxide poisoning for residents.

It is necessary to choose pipes in which the thickness of the outer metal layer is 1 mm (and not 0.5 mm). It is very easy to check - for a product with a thin wall, the wall bends if you squeeze it with your hands.

When installing sandwich structures, it is necessary to use a special sealant for high operating temperatures (automotive sealant with an operating temperature of 500 ° is not suitable).

If the pipe rises above the roof by more than one meter, it should be reinforced with stretch marks.

A chimney is a mandatory attribute of any furnace, thanks to which the resulting combustion products are removed from the heating system. The chimney is most often made of a metal pipe. It creates thrust, with the help of which all gases leave with smoke.

Chimney Requirements

You can mount a metal chimney for a stove with your own hands, the main thing is to do it right, otherwise, due to incorrect calculations, the load on the heating system will increase, the room will smoke, etc.

The main characteristics of any chimney:

• form;
• material;
• the size.

The first thing you should pay attention to when buying a chimney is its shape. Masters recommend the use of cylindrical pipes, they are better than others for the removal of exhaust gases and smoke.

Many owners of fireplaces and stoves are wondering how to clean the chimney? And this is not accidental, because a decrease in traction can lead to failure of the chimney and a fire. Let's look into this issue.

Important! The chimney for the stove should have as few corners, sharp transitions and obstacles as possible. Otherwise, a lot of soot and ash will settle on the walls of the pipe.

The material from which the chimney is made is no less important. If we are talking about an acidic environment, it is best to use steel pipes from "stainless steel" with molybdenum. The stove chimney can also be laid out of brick, but the most popular material is alloy steel. Earlier we already wrote about and advised to bookmark the article.

The size of the chimney directly depends on the size of the heating structure (stove). To correctly determine the height of the structure, it is necessary to seek help from the documents on building codes. Errors in the calculations lead to a decrease in traction and the appearance of traces of soot in the room. In order not to be mistaken with the diameter and length of the pipes, you can use a suitable finished project with dimensions from the Internet.

Basic requirements for metal chimneys:

• Pipes must be well insulated.
• Before installing the chimney, you need to make the right calculations and prepare a project.

Compliance with these rules will allow the chimney to function without such consequences as smoke in the room, soot settling, carbon monoxide and etc.

Installation rules

• If the chimney rises above the roof by more than one and a half meters, then it must be additionally fixed with brackets or braces.
• The height of the metal pipe from the furnace to the head must be at least 5 m.
• To remove condensate in the chimney, special plugs are mounted.
• In some heaters, the exhaust gas temperature is very high, so the ceiling surface must be additionally insulated. Also, the masters recommend using special parts during installation, for example, an insulated passage through the ceiling.
• The chimney must extend beyond the roof by at least half a meter.
• When installing a chimney, it is unacceptable to “narrow” its diameter.
• Horizontal sections of a metal pipe should not be more than 100 cm in length.
• If the pipeline is laid near structures made of combustible materials, then it should heat them by no more than 50 degrees Celsius.
• The chimney must pass at a safe distance from the electrical wiring, gas pipeline and flammable building materials.

Read more about on our portal.

Tools and materials

You can mount the metal chimney for the furnace yourself, for this you need to prepare the following materials and tools:

• metal knee;
• docking elbow;
• metal pipe;
• sealant (We recommend reading the material about);
• spark arrester;
• thermal insulation;
• brackets or other fasteners;
• anti-spill visor;
• tee with condensate drain, etc.

Note: There are two types of tee for collecting condensate and cleaning the chimney: at 90 and 45 degrees. Usually it is sold with a special plug. It can be deaf or with a condensate drain.

Details for the installation of a metal chimney - elbow, tee, plugs, etc.

Installation steps

Furnace chimney, and in this case we will talk about installing a pipe for a potbelly stove standard sizes, mounted like this:

• The first piece of metal pipe is fixed with a sealant in the chimney in the furnace.

• The knee is increased, moving up to the ceiling or window.

Important! It is necessary to fix the pipe to the wall with brackets every two meters.

• Having reached the ceiling, a hole is cut required size and the insulation is removed. The size of the passage must be at least 70 mm larger than the pipe diameter.

• A pipe is led out through the throughput glass and fixed in place of attachment with an external chimney.

Advice! The joints of elbows, pipes and tees are additionally fastened with clamps. After completion of work, they are additionally sealed.

• Next, a tee is attached to drain the condensate.

Advice! If the chimney will be discharged through the window, then the through-hole glass is installed in the glass hole.

• The external chimney is covered with bitumen, providing adequate thermal insulation.

• A spark arrester is attached to the surface of the pipe, popularly called "fungus". It protects the chimney not only from flying sparks, but also from precipitation and small debris.
• At the end of the work, an umbrella is installed on the chimney.

• Places of pipes that may be subject to corrosion are treated with heat-resistant paint.
• After all installation work on the installation of a metal chimney, a test furnace firebox is carried out. Check the tightness of the structure, the level of heating.

Important! When testing a furnace with a newly installed metal chimney chimney, a burning smell or light smoke may appear. This is due to the crystallization of the sealant composition and the evaporation of oil from the surface of the pipes.

The efficient operation of a chimney for a wood-burning stove and other types of heating appliances depends not only on the correct installation and calculations. The chimney needs constant care. It is necessary to regularly monitor the condition of the pipes for burnouts, rust, corrosion, and clean them. During the operation of the furnace, traces of soot and soot remain on the inner surface of the pipes, which make the diameter of the pipeline section narrower. In addition to natural products of combustion, traces of plastic waste can be deposited there. Sometimes the chimney becomes clogged due to the appearance inside the pipe hornet's nest and others. Masters recommend cleaning at least two or three times during the heating season.

For cleaning you can use:

• aspen firewood - burning aspen quickly removes soot;
• flexible thick cable for hard-to-reach places;
• combustion together with fuel of special chemical compositions, etc.

Video: do-it-yourself metal chimney installation

You can install a metal chimney for the furnace with your own hands. To avoid unpleasant consequences, you need to strictly follow the instructions and not be inventive.

Certainly modern house with a stove is an anachronism. A zealous owner sets himself a complex economical system heating. However, what could be better than sitting in front of a fireplace on a cold evening or taking a steam bath in a Russian bath? But both a fireplace and a good stove in a Russian bath cannot do without chimneys and chimneys. This equipment will also be relevant in the construction of stationary barbecues and barbecues. The device of chimneys and chimneys is quite simple, but has some nuances.

Chimneys and chimneys can be divided into several large groups depending on the material of their manufacture. So they can be made using brickwork, from metal pipes various types, as well as from multilayer materials.

Moreover furnace chimneys may differ in the way they are installed:

• Wall chimneys are mounted directly in the thickness of the walls of the building, external or internal. At the same time, stoves and fireplaces can also be mounted directly in the walls of buildings.
• Suspended chimneys are mounted on the outer walls of buildings.
• There are also indigenous chimneys. Such structures are mounted separately, next to the furnace.

SNiP requirements for chimneys and chimneys

Certain requirements are imposed on chimneys and chimneys under construction by existing SNiPs:

• They must effectively remove combustion products.
• They must have sufficient height above the roof ridge.
• Their internal section should be sufficient for complete removal of smoke.
• Pipes must be resistant to high temperatures.
• They must be strong, the upper part of the chimney must withstand gusts of wind

Let's start with the height of the chimney. Sufficient height of the chimney ensures good traction and effectively removes combustion products, preventing the room from smoking and maintaining traction. However, excessive pipe height can lead to condensation and reduced draft.

The diameter of the chimney or its internal section is calculated based on the dimensions of the furnace. It increases along with the volume of the furnace space, in proportion to it. An insufficient section of the chimney leads to smoke, but an excessive diameter will, on the contrary, lead to a decrease in traction.

What should the chimney be made of, what materials are prohibited to use?

The main requirement for the material for the manufacture of chimney chimneys is heat resistance. The minimum fire safety threshold for chimney material is set at 30 minutes and 1000 degrees. In continuous operation, the pipe material must withstand temperatures of 500 degrees without damage, since the temperature of the combustion products rarely drops below 300 degrees.

A margin of 200 degrees is due to the fact that soot accumulating in pipes tends to ignite spontaneously.

Strict requirements are also imposed on thermal conductivity. The temperature of the outer layer of chimney pipes should not exceed 90 degrees, and in places of interface with flammable structures - no higher than 65 degrees.

We note in particular that the combustion materials have an aggressive chemical composition and the material from which the pipes of furnace chimneys are made must effectively withstand the adverse chemical environment. In addition, the part of the pipe that extends outside the room is exposed to climatic conditions and must not be destroyed due to temperature changes.

The traditional material for the manufacture of chimneys is refractory bricks. It almost perfectly meets all the requirements for chimney materials. However, the construction of brick chimney chimneys requires certain skills.

In addition, the brick must be individually selected for each heating device. So in furnaces, the temperature of the combustion products is usually kept at 250 degrees, but in fireplaces, under direct fire conditions, it can reach 400 degrees. Thus, the walls of a brick pipe for a fireplace are recommended to be made of fireclay bricks, laying a wall thickness of more than 15 centimeters with seams of 5 mm. This significantly increases the cost of manufacturing chimney pipes for fireplaces, as well as the requirements for the strength characteristics of the foundations under the fireplace.

Asbestos cement chimneys and chimneys

Relatively cheap, but also reliable material for the manufacture of chimney pipes are asbestos-cement pipes. They can be used for the construction of chimneys in stationary barbecues, light buildings, baths. When installing such pipes, pay attention to Special attention to areas of interface with flammable materials, since the asbestos-cement pipe may crack during service.

Stainless steel chimneys

As a rule, furnace chimneys made of stainless steel can be used in the construction of heating systems with gas boilers. Such a pipe heats up very strongly from the passage of combustion products and therefore it must be reliably equipped. In addition, it is necessary to pay special attention to the quality of the pipe from which the chimney is made. Thin stainless metal, especially in low-quality pipes, can crack, which can easily cause a fire.

Also, the disadvantage of this model of pipes is the strong formation of condensate on their surface.

Pipes and chimneys made of multilayer composite materials

New models of pipes, also called "sandwich pipes", appeared on the market relatively recently, but have already managed to prove themselves well. Multilayer pipes are manufactured in industrial conditions, usually in the form of meter lengths; during installation, the chimneys simply need to be connected. Such a pipe is reliable in terms of strength, is highly resistant to high temperatures and to aggressive chemical environments.

Usually sandwich pipe has three layers. The inner surface is made of stainless steel, the upper surface is galvanized. An insulating material is placed between them.

Such a pipe has a small weight and is quite undemanding to installation. It does not give a big load on the furnace. As a disadvantage, one can note the high cost of such structures and a relatively low service life. However, the time of trouble-free operation of a sandwich pipe depends on the specific manufacturer. During operation, such a pipe is subjected to temperature deformations, which can violate its integrity.

Multilayer pipes may have a different composition. So the inner part can be made of refractory clay, and basalt wool can be placed between it and the upper shell of lightweight concrete. Such a complete set of multilayer pipes significantly increases their service life. In addition, various decorative coatings can be glued to the outer part of such a pipe.

Modular chimneys

Modern industry offers ready-made construction kits for self installation chimney chimneys. All components are manufactured in industrial enterprises and then easily assembled on site.

How to arrange a chimney passage through the roof?

1 - chimney chimney, 2 - rafter leg, 3 - fireproof thermal insulation material, 4 - bearing beam

Typically, the installation of chimney chimneys is carried out during the construction of a building or structure, simultaneously with the installation of a stove or heating system.

With this approach, you can easily adjust the relative position of the rafters under the chimney and create the necessary gaps between wooden materials and chimney. They must leave at least 15 centimeters and are laid with fireproof material, such as basalt wool.

When building a stove or fireplace, when calculating their foundation, it is necessary to take into account the weight of the chimney pipe.

The upper part of the pipe can be supplied protective device, preventing, on the one hand, the scattering of sparks, and on the other hand, rain entering the pipe.

Brick chimney laying - instructional video

Installation of a stove or fireplace involves the arrangement of a smoke removal system. In this matter, it is not enough to choose the right pipes for the chimney; it is also necessary to comply with a lot of building and fire regulations. Otherwise operation heating equipment would be ineffective and unsafe.

Mistakes made during the installation of the chimney not only reduce the efficiency of the furnace, but can also lead to tragedy. In our material, we will talk about how to avoid the most common mistakes during installation. In addition, we will tell you how to choose the right pipes for chimneys.

The main and only purpose of the chimney is to remove exhaust gases from the heating boiler into the atmosphere outside the building where the stove, boiler or fireplace is installed. However, from her correct installation directly depends on the efficiency of heat generating equipment.

You can put a boiler in the house with excellent efficiency, but make miscalculations at. The result is excessive fuel consumption and lack of comfortable air temperatures in the rooms. The chimney must have the correct section, location, configuration and height.

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During normal operation of the chimney, the horizontal wind flow, flowing around the section of the pipe above the roof, turns up. As a result, rarefied air is formed above it, which literally “sucks” smoke from the exhaust. However, the ridge of a pitched roof and even a tall tree in the immediate vicinity of the house can interfere with this process.

Norms for the installation of a smoke exhaust system

Building codes prescribe the chimney to be done as follows:

1. Its length from the grate to the top point should be from 5 meters (an exception is possible only for buildings without attics and only under conditions of stable forced draft).
2. The optimal height, taking into account all possible bends, is 5–6 m.
3. distance from metal chimney to structures made of combustible building materials should be from a meter.
4. The horizontal outlet immediately behind the boiler must not exceed 1 m.
5. When passing roofing, walls and ceilings inside the house, a channel of non-combustible materials should be equipped.
6. For connection metal elements pipe sealant should be used exclusively heat-resistant with operating temperature from 1000 °С.
7. The chimney must rise at least 50 cm above the flat roof.
8. If a non-brick chimney is built 1.5 meters or more above the roof level, then it must be strengthened without fail with stretch marks and brackets.

Any slopes and horizontal sections will inevitably reduce the draft in the chimney pipe. If it is impossible to make it straight, then bends and displacements are best done from several inclined segments at a total angle of up to 45 degrees.

In addition to complying strictly building regulations guaranteeing high efficiency the operation of the chimney and furnace, it is also necessary to take care of fire safety, for which special indents and screens are made

When arranging ventilation and chimney shafts in parallel in one structure above the roof, in no case should they be covered with a common cap. The outlet from the stove must necessarily rise above the ventilation pipe, otherwise the draft will decrease, and the smoke will begin to be sucked back into the house. The same applies to individual, but adjacent hoods and chimneys.

Choice of chimney material

Laying a chimney in a private residential building can be done in several ways:

1. With a passage through the attic floor and roof.
2. With conclusion for external walls and only inside the building.
3. With a passage only through the roof, bypassing the interfloor ceilings.
4. With support directly on the boiler or furnace, or with fastening to the walls.
5. With an offset vertical centerline and in a strictly straight design.

The choice of the final configuration depends on the layout living rooms, the location of the heating unit, as well as individual features constructive and architecture of the cottage. In each case, it is recommended to select your own chimney option.

It remains only to figure out which pipe to choose for the chimney, what material for this fit better Total.

You can make a chimney from:

• bricks;
• iron or asbestos pipes;
• ceramics;
• concrete;
• heat resistant glass.

It can be round, square or rectangular in cross section. Moreover, the first of them is the most optimal. From all materials self-assembly only with heat-resistant glass can there be problems. Its installation will require a special device load-bearing structure, competently and with a guarantee that only a specialist can assemble.

Option #1 - traditional brick

Fired brick chimneys have been made for more than a century. These are traditional and well-studied designs for the removal of flue gases by professional stove-makers. But they have to be done simultaneously with the construction of a dwelling; for heavy brickwork, it is necessary to fill in a separate foundation.

Brick for the chimney of gas equipment should be taken exclusively corpulent and well-burnt, the porous analogue is capable of passing gas dangerous to humans

Among the advantages of a brick pipe are high fire safety, attractive appearance, study of the design and additional heat transfer from the masonry. And among the disadvantages are the high cost of work, the high weight and the need for a foundation, as well as the strong roughness of the walls.

In general, brickwork is a reliable and efficient option for organizing a chimney. A existing shortcomings can be easily bypassed by a banal installation of stainless steel pipes inside the shaft. The steel liner will prevent soot clogging and take on part of the heat load, thereby securing the brick and extending its service life.

Brick chimneys are constructed mainly using solid fuels. They are arranged with mounted ones, i.e. installed on the ceiling of the stove, root in the form of a separately constructed vertical outlet, and wall - located inside the bearing wall.

When using a metal liner with a round cross section inserted inside a brick chimney, it can serve as a chimney for gas heating and cooking units.

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The foundation under the brick chimney must be ultra-reliable, otherwise the pipe can be led to the side with its subsequent partial or complete destruction. And if smoke extraction is done for gas boiler, then it is better to exclude the brick. It breaks down quickly when exposed to alkaline environment formed during the combustion of natural gas.

But if you need the most durable and safe system for removing stove fumes, then ceramics is the undisputed leader here. It is expensive, but will last for decades. The main thing during the installation of all options is to comply with building and fire regulations.