What you need to know about fittings for a toilet cistern: characteristics, companies, prices. Adjusting the toilet fittings: how to properly adjust the drainage device Toilet fittings are universal composition

Even the most reliable plumbing fixture can break. It is especially unpleasant if this is a product that is used by all family members on a daily basis. If the toilet flush fitting is out of order, then you don't want to wait a couple of days until the plumber comes, do you agree? Moreover, such a problem can be successfully solved on your own.

Before proceeding with the repair, it is necessary to understand the design of the tank, the device of the drainage mechanism and understand the principle of the overflow. The article discusses in detail all of the above points, and also describes possible breakdowns toilet fittings and ways to eliminate them.

The toilet is the centerpiece of any bathroom. If you can do without a shower stall or a bathtub using the ablution tray, then the toilet is an indispensable device not only for every family member, but even for some pets.

Therefore, it is simply necessary to know its features and device so that on Saturday morning you will not be alone with such a breakdown.

You can also repair or replace the tank fittings with your own hands. The main thing is to turn off the water before starting work and familiarize yourself with the manufacturer's recommendations for adjusting the structure

Features of flush cisterns

Toilet tanks differ in the material of manufacture, the method of installation and connection to the water supply, the type of location of the button / lever. And the price range of this type of plumbing fixtures is very wide - from inexpensive domestic models to exclusive design options renowned manufacturers of sanitary ware.

According to the material of manufacture, the following types of toilet cisterns are distinguished:

faience;
plastic;
cast iron.

The drain fittings used for toilet bowls are mainly made of plastic. This even applies to expensive models.

Only in exclusive versions of plumbing are metal fittings used. Moreover, it is made from brass and bronze alloys.

Faience cisterns received recognition and the greatest distribution throughout the world. It is this material that can most often be found in bathrooms where a toilet bowl + a cistern is installed.

Faience products are produced as domestic manufacturers and eminent Western firms. It will not be difficult to choose the best option for your bathroom

Plastic Models drain tanks have a flattened shape. This is due to the specifics of their application - the so-called when the device for flushing is installed in the wall. The design is reliable, easy to maintain and has a long service life.

Plastic tanks for toilet bowls must have an inspection window after installation. It is usually located behind the flush button.

Cast iron cisterns Is a relic of the past. Heavy, bulky and unpresentable structures still remain in use by many zealous inhabitants of our country. But when renovating, they are often old cast iron products are replaced with beautiful modern plumbing.

According to the method of connection to the water supply, there are toilet tanks with upper and lower connections. The latter are more preferable - they look more presentable and create less noise during operation.

The version with the upper eyeliner is produced by many Russian plumbing firms. The fittings have been improved to reduce noise during the collection of the container after draining.

There are three ways to install the cistern:

top mount;
installation in a false wall;
on the toilet shelf.

Top mount- This is a retro version. This arrangement of the drain device is used in bathrooms made in retro style.

Retro style toilet cisterns are very popular with large bathroom owners. In a modest bathroom, such a product will be inappropriate, and its price is very high.

Toilet installation is used for pendant models when the tank is hidden in the wall. This allows you to save space in the bathroom and harmoniously fit the plumbing into the overall style of the bathroom / toilet room.

Built into the installation, hidden by a false wall, the cisterns are distinguished by a higher price compared to inexpensive domestic sanitary ware made of faience

Toilet shelf mounting- the traditional solution. These are the usual models of a plumbing couple when drain system mounts on the toilet bowl shelf.

Advantages: simplicity and affordability. And the choice is very wide - you can choose both the domestic version and the elite plumbing of Italian, French or German manufacturers.

A toilet shelf flush cistern is the most maintainable option. If there is a need for repair, then it is easy to get to the fittings

Internal structure of the tank

Inside each cistern, there is a shut-off valve for controlling the toilet bowl. For many models, the fittings are included in the set along with all necessary fasteners and nuts.

According to the method of water supply and the place of installation in the tank, the following types of fittings are distinguished:

top eyeliner;
bottom eyeliner;
universal.

Top-lined design built into the collection tank. The flexible tube for water supply is connected from the top. This must be taken into account, because such fittings are not suitable for every model of the cistern. Basically, only domestic manufacturers provide for top piping in their sanitary ware.

Fittings with bottom piping Comes with most Western flush cisterns. Moreover, the construction is plastic, but the quality of all components is high.

Most often, you can face the following problems:

filling does not occur;
water constantly flows into the toilet bowl;
lack of reaction when pressing the button / lever;
leaks at the joints;
weak discharge head.

Problem # 1... Filling does not take place if the inlet diaphragm is heavily clogged. Then you cannot do without cleaning or replacing it. If the condition of the membrane is working, and the filling of the reservoir with the working fluid does not occur, then it is necessary to check the correct functioning of the float. Perhaps to come.

In built-in models, inspection, adjustment and repair of fittings takes place through an inspection hole hidden behind decorative panel with button

Problem # 2... Water constantly flows into the toilet, increasing the meter reading cold water... This problem occurs when large debris or other objects fall into the tank. Anything superfluous interferes with the normal operation of the tank filling fittings. It is also necessary to remove foreign objects from it.

May also cause misalignment, loosening, or float breakage. You can repair the float valve without much difficulty with your own hands:

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Before proceeding with the repair of the float valve that controls the water supply to the tank, we shut off the water supply to it.

We flush out all the water from the toilet cistern by pressing the dedicated button, button or handle

Unscrew the screws that attach the valve to the float, located around it

If necessary, move the device holding the float of the toilet bowl

Remove the membrane or washer from the valve locking mechanism. If they are damaged, we change to similar ones.

Using vinegar and a brush, instead of which you can take an old toothbrush, remove the calcium and rusty sediment around the float valve

We install the membrane or washer back, assemble the plumbing fixtures, close the tank with a lid

We check the operation of the repaired float valve. If everything is in order, we proceed to operation.

Step 1: Shutting off the water supply to the tank

Step 2: flush out all the water from the sanitary cistern

Step 3: Unscrew the hardware around the valve

Step 4: displacement of the float holder

Step 5: Removing the valve washer or diaphragm

Step 6: Removing sediment around the float valve

Step 7: Reinstall Washer or Diaphragm

Step 8: Checking Float Valve Operation

In the case when everything is in order with the float, you need to check the condition of the other plastic parts of the fittings - the rod, the diaphragm lever or the float spoke.

Problem number 3... Nothing happens when you press the flush button. Here you have to check for gaps in those places where they should not be - at the joints. Also, plastic parts of the fittings may be broken, which is especially common in cheap models that have served for more than 3 years.

A common reason for a disruption in the supply of water to the tank is an inappropriate length of the drain and filling pipes or their damage. In the fight against the situation, we carry out the following steps:

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If the water enters the tank too weakly or splashes when it enters, we check the condition of the drain-overflow mechanism. The overflow tube should be about 1 cm below the drain button or handle

If, when draining water from the tank, splashing occurs, shorten the filling tube to the required length

If damage is found on the filling tube or its condition does not inspire confidence in long-term service, we cut off a tube of equal length. It should be equal in diameter to the worn tube

Insert a new segment into the seat of the old filling tube, if necessary, adjust it in length

Step 1: Checking the position of the overflow tube

Step 2: Check the condition and length of the filling tube

Step 3: Cutting a new filling tube for replacement

Step 4: Reinstall the new tube

Problem # 4... Another nuisance that arises with the toilet cistern is leaks at the threaded joints. To eliminate this problem, you will need to replace the sealing gasket. If this part has not yet had time to wear out, then you need to check if the nuts are tight and if there are any distortions.

The toilet is an integral part of any apartment, and it is always designed for a long service life. In addition to its outer part, it has a drainage device, also called fittings. It is this equipment that needs periodic maintenance, and sometimes under repair. In addition, during the initial installation of the toilet, it is very important to correctly select all of its elements.

The outer part of the toilet consists of the following elements:

Toilet fittings perform the functions of draining and filling water into the cistern. It consists of the following elements:

Assembled fittings look like this.

Components and principle of operation of the drain system

rack with a tank;
lid;
flush button (now 2 buttons are often used).

a float that regulates the filling of water into the tank when the level is insufficient;
a shutter that closes the opening in the tank when the flush is completed;
rod or chain link.

The cycle of the toilet is shown in the video.

A schematic representation of the fittings for the toilet in the figure below.

Pressing the siphon cover opens access to the pipe where the water is drained. As a result, the level of the ox in the tank falls, and the float, filled with air, falls.

The tank operates in 2 modes - draining and pouring water.

In flush mode, the toilet flushes waste by mechanically opening the drain hole and supplying a large volume of water. In old mechanisms, a special handle rises, in new ones, buttons (one or two) are pressed. If there are two buttons, then pressing them at the same time gives a more complete head, while one - the head of standard force.
In the mode of supplying water to the tank, it enters from the pipe through the side channel. The float is lowered and water flows freely into the reservoir. When it reaches the desired level, the current is stopped due to the raising of the float.

The operation of the device is based on the principle of a water seal - the drain pipe always has a curved appearance, due to which there is always a certain volume in it. pure water... It blocks the access of odors from the sewer to the apartment. Excess water from the tank also flows into the same pipe, so it never overflows and does not heat the room. The water circulation is shown schematically in the figure.

In this case, water can enter the tank in two ways:

The bottom feed mechanism assumes that water enters the tank from the bottom. The float moves vertically and presses on the device (membrane) that closes the drain, as a result of which, when the optimal filling level is reached, the flow of water into the container stops.
The top feed mechanism is more traditional - water comes from a special pipe due to the downward movement of the float, and then, when it reaches the optimal amount, the float rises and blocks access. This mechanism is simpler, but more noisy than the first.

The device of action of fittings for the toilet is discussed in detail in the video.

Thus, toilet fittings work due to ordinary forces of attraction.

Varieties of toilets

There are quite a few types of toilet bowls. This diversity is due to the different appearance, different drainage mechanism. force of pressure, etc.

So, according to the peculiarities of the location of the drain pipe, they distinguish:

toilets with horizontal flush;
with an oblique drain;
with vertical drain.

By the type of drain, the toilet bowls can be:

horizontal (cascading);
circular (shower).

In the first case, water enters the toilet sink directly and flushes the waste with a strong stream. The second option is more effective, since the pressure goes along the inner surface of the rim, due to which water swirls are formed, which well entrain all objects with them. In this case, a circular drain is quieter than a horizontal one, since the water flows more evenly.

By the type of mutual arrangement of the cistern and the base of the toilet, the following types are distinguished:

compact;
monoblock;
angular;
separated.

The first 3 varieties form a single whole with the cistern and vary depending on the size of the toilet room. The second is separate, and the tank can often be hidden in the wall. These types are often installed in large shopping centers.

Also, toilets can be made of different materials:

earthenware (in most cases);
metal (for example, in train carriages).

Vacuum toilet

Separately in the row is a vacuum toilet. It uses a different drain mechanism. In this case, toilet fittings work not only due to the draft of water, but also with the help of an air flow. Its main difference from the usual ones is that it includes:

a valve that opens by pressing a button;
a vacuum pump that creates a low pressure in a sealed chamber.

When the button is pressed, the valve opens, air is sucked into the toilet bowl due to the greatly reduced pressure in the chamber. This air, along with water, provides a strong pressure to remove residues. At the same time, a characteristic sound is emitted, which was heard by everyone who used the toilet on long-distance trains - there they are in all carriages.

IMPORTANT. If usually from 4 to 7-8 liters of water is used for draining, then a vacuum toilet consumes no more than 1.5-2. In fact, it saves 2-3 times more water, how conventional system... This is achieved by using air to form the pressure. Therefore, vacuum toilets are often installed in apartments.

Types of fittings for the toilet

The fittings for the toilet bowl are its most important link, the functioning of the system as a whole, as well as the duration of its trouble-free use, depends on the correct choice and installation of which.

The classification of fittings depends on their design. For example, according to the method of activating the drain mechanism itself, it happens:

exhaust fittings (rod) - for draining, a handle simply rises or a rope with a tip twitches, the locking element opens the drain hole, and water enters the waste bowl;
push (another name is push-button) - the most common option with push-button drain.

Depending on the features of the float device, there are:

piston valves - the float is connected to the piston by a special lever that moves the piston horizontally. A special gasket is glued to the lower end of the piston, which closes the water supply when the optimum level is reached;
membrane - instead of a gasket, a rubber or silicone membrane is installed. It reliably blocks access to excess water. It serves for a very long time, therefore it is considered the most correct choice;
the croydon valve provides vertical movement of the piston, in modern toilets does not apply.

Perhaps the most important classification of toilet fittings is based on the principle of its operation.

Toilet valves

This name describes the main function of this mechanism. It closes the water inlet when there is enough liquid in the tank. Conversely, it opens a hole. when the waste was washed away. The constituent elements of such a system are:

glass where the mechanism is located;
valve with attached membrane;
float;
traction;
guide.

When flushing occurs, the float goes down following fallen level water, the draft presses on the valve and opens it, as a result of which the volumes new water enter the container. Water will be poured until the float comes back up with it, and the membrane reliably closes the valve.

Toilet drain fittings

Toilet flush fittings provide a direct flush process. In addition, it provides emergency water discharge when the tank is overfilled for some reason.

Draining is ensured by opening the drain hole with a piston and closing it immediately after flushing by gravity.

Toilet fittings should be optimally suited for each specific device and its technical specifications... One of the important such indicators is the peculiarities of supplying new water to the toilet bowl.

Toilet fittings with bottom piping

As stated, this is a more efficient and quieter way of supplying water. It is often installed in modern toilets. In these cases, fresh water is pumped from the water supply below, directly into the tank with a toilet.

It also creates a more aesthetic appearance of the device, since all communications are hidden from view.

In cases with bottom water supply Special attention when buying toilet fittings, you should pay attention to airtight gaskets. The fact is that the forced supply of water from the bottom up creates a constant pressure on the pipe, as a result of which a leak is often observed. However, reliable sealing of all joints makes it possible to practically exclude such a phenomenon.

Side liner

This classic version which can be found in any old apartment... Water is poured through a special hole on the side, and it is located above the water level.

In this case, the fittings are supplied directly to the water pipe, from where the water comes from. It has a push-button valve with a metal button.

You can learn more about the views in this video.

How to choose fittings for the toilet

If the question arose about replacing old fittings or buying a toilet bowl and a device for draining into a new apartment, then before making a choice, you need to evaluate for what parameters of the bowl and toilet bowl you select the drain system, how important is water saving, noise and pressure power for you , aesthetics.

IMPORTANT. The price factor should be the last thing to pay attention to. You can choose among a specific product cheaper offers in various stores, however, choosing the cheapest model initially is more expensive for yourself. The fact is that poor-quality articulation of components does not durable material, of which they are composed, will not allow the system to function as long as we would like. Often there will be cases when a leak occurs or the flush becomes weaker, etc. Therefore, it is better to pay extra for quality than to waste time and money on solving problems.

Models and prices

Manufacturers supply quality models to the market famous brands such as Wirquin, Optima Siamp, AlcaPlast and some others. The approximate prices for them are presented in the table below.

Toilet fittings and their components are generally quite affordable, and it will not be difficult to install them yourself. The cost for it increases not only depending on the original quality of the parts. but also on the complexity of the mechanism. So, two-button drain systems are more expensive. Moreover. some are equipped with a manually controlled flush stop system, which saves water consumption.

Replacing toilet fittings with your own hands

You can install fittings by inviting a plumber, but if you figure it out well, you can do it yourself. Moreover, when buying, there is always an instruction in the kit, which describes in detail the installation algorithm.

Video instructions for replacing the toilet seat

When installing the system with your own hands, the main elements that will be worked with will be:

float;
twists - connect the float to the tap;
supply connection;
float valve, which is attached to the fitting.

The system looks like this schematically.

V general view you need to carry out the following sequence of actions:

When it comes to replacing fittings, the old one is carefully removed first. To do this, the water supply to the tank is shut off (usually there is a special control valve for this), and the nuts and self-tapping screws that support the piston struts are carefully unscrewed. All fittings are unscrewed and the system removed.
The elements of the new fittings are assembled according to the instructions: the drain mechanism is installed on a special sealed gasket. Then it is screwed into the tank with a plastic nut.
The bolts are inserted into the holes, and on the other side they are screwed with nuts, and plastic washers are put on on top.
The tank with the assembled toilet fittings is attached to the bowl. This is usually done using the self-adhesive rubber that comes with the kit, as well as bolts that are carefully tightened with nuts.
Next, a hose is connected through which water will be supplied to the tank.
If the armature has additional mechanisms, they need to be adjusted to suit your needs. For example, you can choose the optimal position of the glass. by moving it up or down; it is possible to change the position of the drain pipe somewhat. During operation, in the first days, take a closer look at how much water is wasted. If too much of it is poured out, then you need to adjust the fittings so that less water flows into the tank. More details can be found here

IMPORTANT. When assembling the entire system, pay special attention to tightness - carefully fasten all connections, fit rubber gaskets tightly. In the first week after installation, you need to be especially careful for leaks. If even small droplets are formed, then the system must be disassembled and reassembled, since in the future the gaps will only increase.

Possible problems during operation

Over time, during the operation of any, even the highest quality fittings for the toilet, malfunctions in the system may appear:

Water flow with outside branch pipe. Here the reason is obvious - a leaky gasket. Perhaps it was installed incorrectly, or it has already worn out and moved away from the surface. To begin with, you can try to screw the nut that connects the tank to the branch pipe until it stops. But if the leak continues, then you need to turn off the water and pull the gasket out from under the tank with careful movements. When it appears completely, you need to remove it by making several windings with fluoroplastic sealing material (fum).
If the lever that releases the water does not work, then you need to replace its components, usually they are of universal sizes, and this procedure will not be particularly difficult.
If the water does not drain at all, then you need to adjust the angle of the lever on which the float is attached. This is done with a plastic screw.
If the drain occurs unevenly, then in large, then in small portions, this indicates that the fastening of the lever has become more loosened. It is necessary to tighten the bolt and in this position adjust the lever to the required level
If too much water is poured, then the float is broken. Perhaps it is slightly skewed or its mechanism does not work. Need to either fix the spoke
If, on the contrary, the drain has become weak, and the water flows down in small quantities, then most likely the pipe connecting the tank and the bowl is clogged. It needs to be cleaned.
If the inside of the tank forms limescale, then you need to drain all the water, block fresh access and wipe off the plaque with citric acid, then wash it off with water.
If there is a sewage smell in the apartment, this indicates that due to a strong pressure difference in the drain pipe, the water level in the knee (flush) has dropped sharply - this can be seen with the naked eye. Perhaps the drain-to-sewerage connection was improperly installed, in which case it needs to be redone, otherwise the smell will continue to flow. Another option - the drain is dirty, it needs to be cleaned with a plunger or a plumbing cable.

How to save water for draining

Correctly selected and installed fittings provide not only high-quality drainage, but also help to save water.

You can experiment with economy if you notice that the drain is too heavy and water is wasted. To do this, there is one simple option - to reduce the volume of water supplied to the tank after draining.

Pour into plastic bottle a volume of 1.5-2 liters, fill it with up to half the volume of sand or small stones for gravity, and then add water.
Place this bottle gently aside so that it does not snag on the moving armature mechanisms.
Close the toilet lid.

At first glance, the savings of 2 liters is small. But if you do even 7-8 flushes a day, then in a month you will save at least 300 liters of water, i.e. almost half a cubic meter. Convert it to money and feel the difference.

Another method involves using water from a washbasin to flush the waste away.

In this case, of course, a refurbishment of the entire system is required. However, when it comes to newly created communication, take a closer look at this idea. The fact is that a toilet consumes up to 25% of the total volume of water consumption, and such a measure can significantly save resources.

Another option is to purchase a flush limiter. Read more about it here.

With an average consumption, the savings for the year will be about 2,500 rubles.

Toilet Care

And of course, do not forget that to maintain cleanliness and to extend the life of the bowl and toilet bowl, you need to follow some simple rules for caring for them:

It is important not only to choose the right plumbing, but also to carry out constant care for it. Then it will serve you for a very long time.

Fittings for a cistern with a lower water connection. Installation and operating instructions

Complies with the requirements of TU 4953-001-02903999-2014

Purpose of the product

The flush cistern is designed to fill the flush cistern (commonly known as a cistern) with water and flush it down the toilet.

Security measures

The materials used for the manufacture of fittings do not emit harmful substances into the environment and do not have harmful effects on the human body through direct contact. Working with fittings does not require any special precautions.

Specifications

Working pressure range, MPa 0.05 - 1
Time to fill a tank in a volume of 6.0 l, no more than 2.5 min
Level stability: change in water level when pressure changes by 0.1 MPa, no more, mm 5.0
Hole diameter in the tank lid, 38 ... 44 mm
Installed resource not less than 150.0 thousand cycles
Connection size G1 / 2-B
Product weight, no more than 0.62 kg

Completeness

The set of fittings includes:

Storage and care of the product

The fittings should be stored packed in dry closed rooms at a distance of less than 0.6 m from heating devices.

It is not allowed to use detergents containing abrasive, acid-alkali-containing substances, organic solvents.

Manufacturer's warranty

The guaranteed service life of the valve is five years from the date of commissioning, but not more than six years from the date of manufacture. The service life of the valve is 6 years.

The product warranty does not apply if:

its mechanical damage;
installations in violation of the requirements of this manual;
improper maintenance during operation:
water mismatch technical requirements GOST 2761-84.

To increase the reliability and durability of the fittings, it is recommended to additionally install a filter in the water supply network.

Installation of fittings

The fittings are delivered assembled, complete and configured for a specific type of tank

The procedure for installing fittings in a tank

After installing the fittings, do not allow the moving parts of the valves to touch each other and the walls of the tank.

Keep the valve from turning when connecting the water supply hose to the inlet valve.

To avoid leakage from under the gasket, tighten the wing nuts evenly on both sides.

Installing the reservoir lid and pushbutton assembly

Check that there is a gap of 3 - 19mm between the tank cap and the push-button assembly fully inserted into the thread of the outlet valve (without screwing in).

For reliable centering of the threads, before screwing in, make 1 - 2 turns counterclockwise until a characteristic click will show that the thread has "sat down" in its place.

Valve adjustment

If the distance between the tank lid and the button assembly is beyond

limits 3 ... 19 mm, it is necessary to adjust the release valve in height

(see fig. 2 and the table for adjusting the height of the reinforcement), Disconnect the rod 23 from

overflow body 12. Press the cup clamps 10 and move

racks 6 up and down, achieve a gap of 3 ... 19 mm.

Attach a pull rod to the overflow body.

To adjust the water level in the tank

disconnect the rod 2 (see fig. 1), move

float up or down, and reattach

craving for him. Minimum distance between

the water level and the upper edge of the tank is 45 mm.

After adjusting the water level in the tank, adjust the overflow pipe 7

(see fig. 2). To do this, unscrew the bayonet cover 9 and move the tube

overflow to a position at which the risk on the pipe corresponds to the level

water in the tank. Tighten the bayonet cover.

* For reinforcement with extended post

** when setting to this division, remove the overflow pipe 7

Flush cistern fitting, WC lid assembly

Instructions for installing toilet cistern fittings. Toilet Seat Assembly and Installation Instructions

Flush cistern assembly with bottom water connection

Looking at the ingenious interweaving of sewer, water pipes, hoses, having talked a lot with gentlemen plumbers from the housing department, who arrived on a regular visit about an extraordinary blockage or leak, after a superficial study of the structure of the toilet, after reading a bunch of responses and advice from experienced people, you come to Volens-Nolens I conclude that a toilet with a lower water supply is the best option.

Pros and cons of toilets with bottom liner

The undoubted advantages include:

neat, aesthetic appearance toilet bowl, thanks to which the sewer and water supply lines are not visible;
the bottom piping is practically noiseless and economical - the water does not "run", since the water supply comes from the bottom of the drain barrel;
the bottom line is reliable, rarely needs repair.

this type of liner is difficult to install;
Difficulty replacing parts - it is easier to completely replace the system.

Coefficient useful action sanitary engineering directly depends on the quality of cleaning sludge from the elbow of the outlet pipe, this function is performed by the fittings for the toilet cistern.

Flush cistern device

the reservoir where the water is located;
fittings;
drain systems;
water flush buttons.

How to choose fittings for the cistern

Initially, the diameter of the intake pipe is measured with a tape measure, a ruler. At 1.5 cm, eyeliner is 3/8 ", at 2.0 cm - ½".

It is better to buy the fittings of the same model as the old one. To do this, dismantle the failed mechanism, show the sample to the sales consultant. Nowadays, fittings are often sold already assembled, which does not require additional efforts.

How is the fittings for the toilet cistern with a lower eyeliner

The materials from which the fittings are made are plastic, metal, bronze. Plastic is the most popular, but fragile material, the cost of a product made from it is low, bronze, respectively, is a more durable material and the cost of a product made from it is quite high. There is nothing complicated in the structure of the cistern fittings. Despite the variety of models, the principle of constructing valves is the same.

The fittings intended for the lower connection are divided into:

The drainage mechanism is fixed in the tank with a union nut. To seal the joint, special seals are put on the drain pipe, before installation, and a gasket is placed between the drain tank and the bowl, which prevents water from flowing. The water is drained by pressing the button or with the drain rod, lifting the lever up.

The push-button device, in turn, is subdivided into:

a one-button device that provides a complete drain, that is, the entire tank is emptied;
a two-button device, in which full and partial emptying of the tank is possible, respectively, such a drain device has two valves.

Also, there can be a float of different designs:

With a piston - the float is attached to the piston, when pressure is applied to the lever, the drain opens; when water is collected, it closes the valve;
With a membrane - the mechanism of action, as well as with a piston.

The shut-off valve consists of: a float, a water overflow tube, a push-button mechanism for draining water, a draft, a glass, a diaphragm valve. Drainage occurs as follows: after pressing the button, water flows out of the tank, the float goes down, the diaphragm valve is opened by the thrust, and water flows from the water pipe, which fills the cistern. The float rises to a set level that limits the thrust. At the same time, the diaphragm valve closes, preventing further flow of water.

Materials and tools required to install and replace fittings

Roulette, you can get by with a regular ruler.
Adjustable wrench No. 1.
Spanners.
Armature.

Fitting installation

Even a layman can install the mechanism in the cistern. Initially, you should familiarize yourself with the instructions attached to the kit, neglect its study, right is not worth it.

Toilet fittings with lower piping which device is better

Fittings for a toilet bowl with a two-button bottom eyeliner how to replace. Toilet valve with 3/8 bottom connection.

Toilet fittings with bottom and side connections: differences, selection, installation

No living space can be imagined without an equipped toilet room. For the toilet to function correctly, it is necessary to select and install fittings in the cistern. Modern toilet fittings with bottom or side piping can last a long time if you choose and install it correctly.

The inner structure of the toilet cistern

Types of fittings and their features

Modern toilet valves are of two types:

Fittings with bottom piping

The constituent elements of the bottom reinforcement are:

a float that regulates the water level in the tank;
guide along which the float moves;
inlet valve;
trigger device;
sealing rings, allowing the fittings to be installed as tightly as possible.

Tank fittings with bottom piping

The main advantages of the bottom reinforcement are:

noiselessness of filling the tank with water;
simplicity of design, affecting the durability of plumbing equipment;
the ability to hide the inlet hose.

Armature with side connection

Toilet fittings with side piping includes the following items constructions:

water inlet valve connected by a lever with a float (4) that determines maximum level water (5);
trigger mechanism;
trigger control lever.

Toilet fittings with side connection

TO positive qualities lateral reinforcement include:

simplicity of design, allowing you to inspect and repair individual elements of the system;
no need for a strong seal at the point of connection of the inlet hose;
low cost.

The only negative factor is the occurrence of noise when filling the tank with water.

Rebar selection criteria

Replacing the toilet fittings is required when a malfunction is detected in the system. In order for a new device to serve for a long time, the choice should be guided by the following aspects:

fittings can be made of plastic or brass. Brass products can last longer than plastic ones;

Types of reinforcement depending on the material used for manufacturing

if you are purchasing a plastic bottom or side fittings for the toilet, then you need to check the quality of the components. Plastic components must be smooth, free from burrs and deformation;
it is more expedient to purchase plastic fittings made of polypropylene or low-pressure polyethylene. Such devices are considered the most reliable;
the gaskets used for assembly should be as soft to the touch as possible. If the sealing element is stretched slightly, no cracks should be visible on it. This aspect testifies to the quality of the gaskets and the correctness of their manufacture. All gaskets must be of the correct shape;

Sealing elements for fittings

reinforcement fasteners can be made of plastic or bronze. Metal fasteners are more durable when installed. The fasteners must have at least two spacers;

Set of elements for fastening reinforcement

the float valve must move smoothly. The presence of sharp jumps or jamming is not allowed;
the prefabricated structure must be strong. All elements must be securely fastened to each other. If a separate component has a free play, then the valve will quickly fail.

Self-installation of fittings

Installation of fittings in the drain tank is carried out according to the following scheme:

from trigger the fastening nut located at the bottom is unscrewed. There is a rubber gasket under the nut, which serves to seal the connection;
sealing ring installed on the bottom of the cistern;
a trigger mechanism is fixed on the prepared gasket with a nut;
the next step is to remove the retaining nut from the filling valve. If fittings with a lower connection are used, the nut is located at the bottom of the device. If side fittings are used, the nut is located on the side of the valve;
there is also an O-ring under the nut, which must be installed on the hole from the inside of the tank;
the inlet valve is mounted inside the tank and fixed with a plastic nut;

Installing the inlet and drain valves

the installed inlet and outlet valves must not come into contact with each other and with the walls of the drain tank. If the indicated defect is detected, then the reinforcement elements are deployed in different directions until the defect is completely eliminated. After correct installation the fixing nuts are tightened to the maximum possible level;

Fittings correctly positioned in the tank

the installation of a flexible hose is being carried out, through which water will flow into the tank. When connecting the liner, also do not forget about the sealing gasket;

Water supply for the cistern

checking the functionality of the fittings. If necessary, adjust the float. If a float on the lever is used, then to adjust it, it is enough to bend the lever to the required value. If a float moving along a guide is used, then the travel limitation is fixed with a special retaining ring or clamps;

Setting the required water level in the tank

installation of the cover and connection of the drain handle (button).

Rules for connecting the handle for draining water

An absolutely unqualified person can independently select fittings for the drain tank, knowing the basic rules. When installing fittings, the main thing is to strictly adhere to the scheme described above and check the tightness of the connections obtained.

Toilet fittings with bottom and side connections: rules for selection and installation

The armature located in the toilet cistern performs a specific function - maintaining a predetermined level of water for flushing. Self-selection and installation of the device is not difficult.

Fittings for a cistern with a bottom liner: installation features, types and reviews

Plumbing repair is a delicate matter, which is why most people prefer to contact specialists. But it is not always possible to call a professional, and the breakdown is in most cases completely removable on our own. For example, the eternally "noisy" toilet cistern without a break and the water constantly pouring inside the faience throne will surely lead anyone to the conclusion that repair of the cistern with a bottom liner or other manipulations inside is required. storage tank... Such an operation is quite capable of performing with your own hands.

Other signs of worn out fittings

The water itself constantly flowing in the tank can signal several types of breakdowns:

Locking diaphragm worn out. This often happens during long-term water shutdowns, rubber soaked during operation dries up and cracks. You will need a new fitting for a cistern with a bottom connection.

Incorrect float level in relation to overflow. All you need to do is adjust the position of the float inside the tank, which can be done in a matter of minutes.

Leaks inside the filling fittings or failure of the locking mechanism. Such breakdowns are eliminated by replacing the entire assembly.

Also, the wear of the gaskets can lead to a leak at the junction of the supply hose and the tank. This problem can be solved by replacing a damaged gasket, replacing a worn-out hose as a whole, or a new shut-off valve for the drain tank with a lower connection. There may also be leaks at the places where the tank is attached, which may indicate its improper installation or damage during operation. In any case, for a start, it is worth finally deciding how serious the breakdown is, identifying the faulty unit and calculating your own strength, since after careless intervention in the plumbing system, the costs for a specialist can increase significantly.

Determination of the type of reinforcement

To identify the reasons, you often have to look inside the cistern, this is done quite simply. Majority existing systems, except for the very outdated ones with ropes, it has operating buttons or a stem, which is attached using an internal thread. By unscrewing this element from the main part of the fittings, you can remove the tank lid and look inside. The valve for a cistern with a lower connection is distinguished by the fact that the water hose is connected more discreetly to the toilet cistern, namely from the back and bottom.

Choosing the right replacement

If you have come to the conclusion that it is necessary complete renovation such an assembly as an armature for a cistern with a lower liner, then you need to decide on a replacement. Unfortunately, outdated types of flush fittings will have to be changed along with the cistern, or even with the entire toilet, so their repair is reduced to temporary measures or the use of handicrafts. But most modern models of flush tanks are compatible with universal fittings. When choosing suitable model fittings, it is important to decide on the connection, bottom or side, while the method of switching on, the button or the pull lever can be chosen to your own taste. Push-button fittings can be made with two buttons with the implementation of the incomplete drain mode; when choosing such a model, it is worth considering the capacity of the tank. You should also know that different manufacturers own design and assembly of the drain cistern fittings with a lower connection, so pick up the one that is out of order separate part can be extremely difficult.

Preparation for work

If your fittings for a cistern with a bottom line require replacement, and you decide to do the repair yourself, you will need to prepare workplace and some set of uncomplicated tools. First of all, it is necessary to block the access of water to the tank and drain the water. Working with plumbing involves possible splashes of water and drops on the floor, so it is worth stocking up on a rag or sponge. Threaded connections on tanks are usually tightened only by hand, since the main material of the fittings is plastic. You may need pliers or adjustable wrench for tightly tightened nuts. To rinse the tank and remove plaque, you may need detergents used for bath or tile.

Dismantling the drain tank fittings with bottom connection

The standard fittings consist of two independent units: a water inlet valve with a shut-off system and a flush valve with manual control... Often, only one of the units requires replacement, which can be taken into account when purchasing. To remove the inlet valve, you must first unscrew the flexible hose of the inlet, and then the fixing plastic nut, after which the entire valve structure can be removed through the top of the tank.

The flush mechanism in universal fittings is fastened with an external nut, for access to which you have to remove the entire tank. First, remove the special bolts that hold the water container, then turn the tank for convenience and unscrew the exhaust valve nut. If the supply hose is long enough, the valve outlet valve replacement procedure can be carried out without dismantling the inlet mechanism.

Installing the drain cistern fittings with a lower connection

Installation is carried out in reverse order... Manufacturers clearly indicate in the instructions the place of application of special gaskets. All connections must be tightened without the use of wrenches or other tools. First, install the drain fittings in the tank and secure it with a nut. The two screws securing the cistern to the toilet should be tightened simultaneously and evenly to avoid distortions of the joint. The connection of the inlet valve must also be done by hand, these precautions protect the fragile porcelain of the tank from chips and soft gaskets from chafing.

If you come across on sale an identical fitting for a cistern with a lower connection, as it was before, the adjustment can be made according to the marks of the old mechanism. In another case, you will have to adjust the product in place right in the tank, since it is not particularly difficult. The universal fittings are equipped with special movable joints with latches, which allow the device to be adjusted to a large number of tank models. First, adjust the inlet valve so that the level of the collected water is sufficient, but does not exceed the drain hole of the outlet valve. It is better to check it right away by drawing water into the tank in the usual way through the supply hose. Next, the drain valve is adjusted to the height of the tank, the button without screwing in should be a few mm higher than the level of the lid. Later, during installation, the button will move down and become flush with the surface of the tank.

Regardless of the model and brand of the toilet cistern, the principal purpose of the shut-off valves of the cistern is invariable:

open the water supply if it is empty;
shut off the water when filling it.

A set of fittings for a cistern consists of the following elements:

drain mechanism (it includes a siphon with a lid and a sealed gasket between drain pipe and a tank);
jet adjustment lever (connected to the water pipe by means of a ball valve);
float (regulates the filling level of the tank). Connected to the drain mechanism with a spoke.

The design of the mechanisms for draining and filling the tank depends on the type of installation.

Type 1- a cistern, suspended high above the toilet. This type is familiar to almost every inhabitant of our country. Not too pretentious in appearance, it nevertheless has undeniable advantages:

simplicity of design (which makes it easy to repair it on your own);
the high speed with which the stream of ode rushes from a height into the toilet bowl.

Type 2- a cistern installed on the toilet shelf. Most modern apartments and public institutions use just this type of device.

Type 3- a tank built into the wall. It looks more like a thick-walled polyethylene canister.

All manipulations for replacing the fittings of such a tank are made through the hole of the drain button.

In order to successfully install a toilet or bidet, you need to know what it should be, this is necessary so that the pipes do not get clogged and do not wear out prematurely. The most important and up-to-date information.

If the toilet "does not flow", then the water consumption is minimal. However, in addition to water charges, water meters need to be checked regularly. About the cost, conditions and frequency of this procedure, there are many useful tips on how to save money on checking meters!

Drainage mechanism ^

Hardly should be considered a device in our time drain fittings for suspended structures: they have long lost their relevance.

Therefore, in the future, we will only talk about shut-off valves of the most common types - cisterns installed directly on toilets.

According to the method of activating the drain device, the mechanisms are divided into two groups:

exhaust (rod). In order to activate the device of this group, it is necessary to lift the top of the stem that closes the drain hole with the handle.
V modern models cisterns, such a mechanism is practically not found. It has survived only in fairly old models;
push-button (push-button). The mechanisms of this group are divided, in turn, into two subgroups:

Croydon valve. Consists of a body, an axis of a float lever, a piston and a seat. The float arm drives the piston.
The piston movement in Croydon valves is vertical. Such a design is installed in old-style tanks.
Piston valve... In this design, the axis of the float arm is fixed in a split pin, split in two.
Moving, the lever forces the piston to move in a horizontal direction. The piston, periodically in contact with the seat, regulates the water supply to the tank.

At the end of the piston, a gasket is mounted, which blocks the water flow at the moment the piston presses on the seat. Tanks with piston valves are in many Russian apartments.
Diaphragm valve... In this type of construction, a membrane (rubber or silicone) is installed instead of a piston gasket.
The plastic piston, moving under the action of the lever, moves the membrane as well. It blocks the water inlet. The diaphragm valve is the latest development in the production of cisterns.

In addition to plumbing, water can be used for additional space heating. V Lately warm water floors are gaining popularity, creating an optimal microclimate in the apartment. Read about how this can be organized in the article, it is not such an expensive pleasure, but the benefits of keeping your feet constantly warm is undeniable!

Summer blackouts aren't a big deal if you have a water heater. One of the most popular companies in Russia is the Termex company, read about its water heaters with a capacity of 80 liters or more, let it always be comfortable in your house.

Tank filling method ^

The tank can be filled in two ways:

through the side water supply;
through the bottom water inlet.

The side inlet tank fills with water noisily, while at the bottom inlet, water fills the tank almost silently.

But many manufacturers began to supplement the tank fittings with a side supply with a branch pipe. It is made of soft plastic and brings a stream of water to the lower area of the container.

Thanks to this addition, flush cisterns with a side inlet have ceased to make noise.

In what cases does the question of replacing fittings arise ^

Cisterns supplied to retail chains, as a rule, are equipped with the necessary set of fittings.

And the majority of users are not interested in which mechanisms ensure the normal functioning of the device.

But time passes, and the tank ceases to cope with its task. It is at this moment that the user has to get acquainted with his device, solve the problem of purchasing spare parts.

Moreover, the problem is not that they are difficult to buy, but how to buy a quality product.

The quality of the cistern fittings plays a huge role in its normal functioning.

It is faulty mechanisms that cause various malfunctions. For example, water begins to seep into the toilet bowl, which is why the snow-white surface of the toilet bowl covered with red streaks.

For more information about the types, cost, sizes of toilets and bidets, what is typical, installation methods and tips for choosing, read only on our website.

Sewer pipes require periodic cleaning. About cleaning methods, cost, special devices for this procedure and much more, let your sewage system function as it should.

Or the flush mechanism ceases to control the volume of flushed water. Such troubles can occur for various reasons, but the most common ones are the following:

low quality of plastic elements of mechanisms leads to their curvature. A too sharp drop in water temperature can give the same effect, even if high-quality fittings are installed in the tank;
many imported machinery(they use diaphragm float valves) do not stand up to the quality of our water: hard, with a large amount of impurities (for example, chlorine). For guard imported equipment sometimes have to be installed coarse and fine filters at the entrance of the water pipe to the apartment;
when using low quality materials for the manufacture of cistern fittings, it is exposed to premature aging and abrasion.

So, in what cases does it become necessary to replace the reinforcement:

continuous flow of water into the tank... This "accident" can happen due to the skewed float arm.
But if after adjusting it nothing has changed, then the float is damaged: it lets water through, it becomes heavier and sinks to the bottom. In this case, you will need to purchase a new float.

It costs quite inexpensively - only about 4 rubles... But in practice, in the event of a malfunction of the float change the entire float valve... This knot costs on average 200 - 300 rubles.
Continuous flow of water into the toilet. There is only one reason for this - the siphon membrane of the drain tank is damaged. In this case, there is only one way out: replacing the membrane.

The cost of this item depends on how it is made:

stamped membranes stand 6 rubles;
molded with vulcanization - 30 rubles.

Many users often wonder: is it worth replacing individual elements cistern fittings?

After all, if the mechanism begins to wear out, then one breakdown will be followed by others. It is safer to replace the entire set of fittings.

In addition, it is very difficult to find, say, a membrane or a float for an imported cistern. A replacing a part with a "non-native" one often does not lead to the expected result.

If you decide to replace the set of fittings in the cistern. Issue price ^

The cost of a set of fittings for a Polish-made Cersanit tank with a bottom water supply is 650 rubles. The kit includes:

outlet valve;
filling valve;
ring sealing;
plastic fitting BAS 24;
the button and the sleeve are metallized.

The fittings for the Vidima cistern are worth 1250 rubles... But for products of this brand diaphragm can be ordered separately... It will cost 300 rubles.

Hybner cistern drain with stop function stands 1800 rubles.

The Spanish-made Jika tank drain valve costs 2800 rubles... The product is produced in two versions:

the height of the button is short;
the height of the button is increased.

The Jika flush valve can be used in ROCA and JIKA flush cisterns of the following collections:

dama senso;
victoria;
vega, etc.

Armature domestic production is much cheaper. For example, fittings "Styling"(produced in Pskov) will cost the buyer from 250 to 340 rubles.

Moreover, the manufacturer claims that all plastic elements are made from primary polypropylene, and the stop valves are produced with the addition of natural rubber.

Interesting options are offered by the Ryazan company "Center for Heating Equipment and Plumbing". They produce brand fittings "RBM" with three types of valves:

direct action;
membrane;
backpressure.

They can be used in tanks with both side and bottom water connections. They have models with rod and push-button starting mechanisms.

Versatile design:

with rod mechanism stands from 99 rubles;
with diaphragm backpressure valve (push-button) from 205 rubles.

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11 reviews for article “ What you need to know about fittings for a toilet cistern: characteristics, companies, prices”

Oksana
It's even strange that a tank suspended high above the toilet is not in vogue now, it still looks like it really is the most efficient one, after all, the water flow rate is a rather important factor. I even wanted to make one at home, I would have to find out if it was possible to do this now, otherwise I was recently in a plumbing store, but I hadn’t seen something like that.
Anna
I really like the hidden toilet flush barrels that fit into the hay. Only one button is visible on the face. Unfortunately, such a system is very expensive and not everyone can afford it. Recently, I began to think about the economy of the toilet flush barrel. Today this is a very topical issue for everyone. Are there such systems that allow you to save water?