Walls as material for. Types and descriptions of building materials for the walls of the house

Until now, there is no unambiguous answer to the question of what material is better to make the walls of a residential building. Each has its own advantages and disadvantages. Builders and designers cannot come to the same opinion regarding the choice of the most optimal product for making walls. The thing is that in each specific case, the best material must be selected based on the purpose of the building, its configuration, climatic conditions of the area and the financial capabilities of the owner. In our article, we will consider the most common wall materials, describe their properties, pros and cons, and you yourself can choose the best one based on the construction conditions.

Factors influencing the choice

A quarter of all construction costs go towards building walls. Since an incorrectly selected material for the construction of walls in the future can lead to even greater expenses, when choosing it, the following factors should be taken into account:

If you want to save on the arrangement of the foundation by making a shallow lightweight version, then choose lightweight material for the walls. Additional savings in the case of using lightweight elements for the walls of the house will be during transportation and installation, because it can be done by hand without using expensive lifting equipment.
Choose building materials with good thermal insulation characteristics... Otherwise, cold walls in winter will cost you dearly due to heating costs.

Tip: best to do heat engineering calculation taking into account the climatic conditions of the construction region. This is the only way to be sure that you have chosen the right material and wall structure. So, in northern regions our country, even walls made of materials with high thermal insulation properties need insulation.

If you use piece materials, for example, bricks, to build the walls of a house, then a considerable share of the costs will be the cost of wages for bricklayers. Even if you do all the work yourself, then consider the time and physical costs. It is much more profitable and faster to build from large-sized elements. The highest speed of wall erection is near houses built using frame-panel and frame-panel technology.
When choosing building materials for walls, it is worth considering how easy they are to finish and whether they need it at all. For example walls frame house from OSB you can not trim it at all, but simply paint it, and a log house needs a thorough finishing outside and inside.

To understand what to build your house from, you need to understand the characteristics of building materials, so further we will describe the properties of each of them, list the advantages and disadvantages.

Brick

A house built of bricks can last a century or even a century and a half. There are many types of bricks that differ in important operational and technical characteristics.

So, for the construction of walls, silicate and ceramic types of bricks are used. Let's consider their features:

Ceramic brick made from burnt red clay. It is a durable, moisture resistant, environmentally friendly material. There are solid and hollow bricks on sale. The more voids in the brick, the higher its thermal insulation performance.
Silicate brick made on the basis of lime, sand and some additives. It also comes in corpulent and hollow forms. The last option is lightweight and has improved thermal insulation qualities. Solid silicate products are distinguished by good sound insulation properties, but high thermal conductivity.

Also, this wall material is divided into front and ordinary:

It is better to build the walls of a house from ordinary brick... Products may have small defects in the form of cracks and chips, but due to this, their price is more acceptable. In addition, the appearance of the product is not as important for the internal masonry of walls as for the front masonry.
Facing brick (front)- this is the wall material with which the facade is made out. All products must have the correct geometric shape, smooth or embossed surface, be free from flaws and defects. The price of a facing brick is higher than that of its ordinary counterpart.

The strength of this wall material is directly related to its brand, which can be from M 75 to M 300. The number indicates the load that one square centimeter of the product can withstand. The higher the brand, the more specific gravity products. To build a 2 or 3-storey house, 100-125 grade bricks are enough. To complete the foundation and basement, products with the brand 150-175 are used.

Also, when choosing a brick, it is important to take into account its frost resistance, that is, the number of freezing and thawing cycles that a product can withstand without damage and reducing strength by no more than 20%. This indicator is marked with the letter F and a number from 15 and above. For warm regions, products with a frost resistance grade of 15 can be used; in colder latitudes, bricks of the F25 grade are used. For facing works a brick with a frost resistance of at least 50 is suitable.

Advantages and disadvantages of bricks

Among the advantages of this wall material, it is worth listing the following:

Impressive service life.
Aesthetic appeal.
Unlimited possibilities in terms of design and implementation of the most complex projects.
The material is not susceptible to corrosion, damage by fungi and microorganisms.
The product does not burn.
High sound and heat insulation characteristics.

The disadvantages include the following:

Due to the small size and high specific gravity, laying brick walls takes a long time and costs a lot.
Under the brick walls, it is necessary to equip a solid buried foundation, and this entails increased costs for materials and earthworks.
In most cases brick walls you need to additionally insulate.

Ceramic blocks

Ceramic block is a material made from a mixture of clay and sawdust, after which the element is fired in an oven. This is a fairly durable product that allows you to quickly build walls at home. The strength of the ceramic block is so high that it can be made of multi-storey building... Inside, the material has a porous structure, and the outer surface is corrugated. For a tight connection, the ends of the material have grooves and ridges.

The height of the ceramic block is a multiple of the rows of brickwork, and other dimensions may be different. Thus, it is possible to build from a ceramic block according to projects that are designed for brick. But the construction speed is much higher, since one ceramic block measuring 238x248x500 mm, which weighs 25 kg, is equal to 15 bricks, each of which weighs 3.3 kg. In addition to increasing the speed of construction, the cost of mortar is reduced, because it will be needed less.

Important: the width of the ceramic block can be 230, 240 and 250 mm, and the length can be in the range of 250-510 mm. There is a tongue-and-groove lock on the long side of the product.

Walls with a thickness of 380 mm or more made of this material do not need insulation, since the thermal conductivity of the product is only 0.14-0.29 W / m²x ° C. Marking of wide blocks M 100. If you need to make thin but strong walls, then you can take elements with marking 150. Frost resistance of ceramic blocks is at least 50 cycles.

Pros and cons of ceramic blocks

The advantages include:

Low specific gravity and high strength significantly expand the scope of this material.
Installation of large-sized products is carried out quickly and without unnecessary labor costs.
Saving mortar due to the size of the elements and the absence of the need to make vertical seams.
Frost resistance of a conventional ceramic block is higher than that of an ordinary brick.
Good fire resistance. The product is able to resist burning for 4 hours.
An optimal microclimate is created in a room made of ceramic blocks, since the walls can "breathe" and regulate the air humidity.
A house can last a century and a half without losing its thermal insulation characteristics.

This has material and disadvantages, among which the following are worth mentioning:

The price of ceramic blocks is quite high.
Since these products are relatively new in our market, it is difficult to find a good bricklayer for masonry.
This fragile material must be stored and transported very carefully.

Gas blocks

This material has excellent thermal insulation properties. In terms of thermal conductivity, a wall made of an aerated block with a width of 300-400 mm is not inferior to a multilayer brick structure. Aerated block walls maintain optimal temperature and humidity conditions inside the room. The material is not subject to rot and has an impressive service life. The thermal insulation qualities of the gas block are 3 times higher than that of a brick wall.

Aerated concrete is quite lightweight, so it is easy to transport and lay. It can be easily cut with a regular hacksaw to the desired size. The elements are laid with mortar or special glue, which requires little. The smooth flat surface of the gas blocks is easy to finish. Aerated concrete is considered environmentally friendly and non-combustible. It has a fairly high frost resistance.

Attention: for aerated concrete, the density characteristic is important. This indicator can be in the range of 350-1200 kg / m³. For an ordinary residential building, it is enough to take elements marked 500-900.

Advantages and disadvantages of gas blocks

This wall product has a lot of advantages:

Aerated concrete walls are laid 9 times faster than brick walls.
The low thermal conductivity of the product is a big plus in its favor.
Aerated concrete has a high fire resistance, it does not emit harmful substances even when burning.
The porous structure of the material contributes to high frost resistance.
In terms of vapor transmission capacity, aerated concrete is comparable only to wood.

Cons of aerated concrete:

Low flexural strength.
The material is prone to cracking.
Hygroscopicity. After moisture absorption, the thermal insulation performance of aerated concrete decreases, so the facade needs a protective finish.
Floor slabs and beams cannot be laid directly on the gas blocks, therefore, before laying them, you will have to make a monolithic armopoyas. This entails additional expense and time consuming.

Wood

Many people who decide to build a house opt for a tree. This natural material is environmentally friendly. It creates a favorable microclimate in the house, maintains optimal humidity and saturates the air with medicinal phytoncides. V wooden house warm in winter and not hot in summer, since wood has good thermal insulation characteristics.

A wooden house can be built from the following items:

The log can be natural or rounded. In the latter case, the material has correct shape and a smooth surface, but requires additional protective treatment, since the natural protective resin layer that is under the bark is removed during the rounding process.
You can use glued (profiled) and sawn or planed timber. Better houses are obtained from laminated veneer lumber, which has special grooves and ridges for a snug fit of the elements. Sawn timber is more often used for performing frame houses.
Frame-panel houses are made of OSB, chipboard, moisture-resistant plywood, which are attached to the frame. Insulation is laid inside the wall.

Main pluses wooden houses- their environmental friendliness, comfort and reasonable price. A lightweight foundation can be made for such a house. Disadvantages - fire hazard, shrinkage.

There is no single building material for walls that is versatile. When choosing it, many factors are taken into account: this is reliability, soil characteristics, weather conditions, price range and much more. Currently the choice building materials quite extensive. For a house to be strong and durable, it is necessary to take into account not only the advantages of the raw materials from which the construction is planned, but also its disadvantages.

Building materials for walls

A good home is a solid home. So it will be if the building material for its walls is chosen correctly.

The wall is:

building structure that encloses or separates some part of the territory;
side of the structure.

The walls in the house can be divided into several groups depending on the load. Among them, there are load-bearing, self-supporting, non-bearing, hinged and fencing. All this is shown in the diagram.

Building walls at home requires the selection of a specific building material. Each of them has individual properties, has its own strengths and weaknesses. Depending on this, it finds application in wall construction. The use of various materials for the walls can be seen in the video.

The following main wall materials are distinguished:

brick;
wood;
ceramic blocks;
concrete;
aerated concrete;
foam concrete;
cinder blocks;
sip panel;
metal structures.

All these modern materials are widely used in individual construction.

Brick walls

Brick is a traditional building material that is fake diamond... It has its positive and negative qualities: heat capacity, has a high bearing capacity, but has a relatively high price.

Brick types:

Adobe - made of clay and straw, instead of which wood shavings, chaff or horse dung are sometimes used. It is used in Asian countries. In Russia, it is found in rural areas.
Ceramic - made from fired clay. A quality brick should produce ringing sound and have a uniform reddish color. Through cracks with a length of more than 4 cm are unacceptable; such a brick should be selected for strength and frost resistance. The letter "M" denotes the strength grade. The numbers indicate the permissible compressible load in kg / cm 2. Frost resistance class is indicated English letter F, the numbers indicate freeze cycles.
Silicate - made of sand and lime under the influence of steam at a temperature of 170 - 200 0 C. For the construction of walls, you can choose bricks of various colors and thicknesses.
Hyper-pressed - a building material made under high pressure without the use of firing. Small limestone rocks are added to a small amount of cement with water, battle from production ceramic brick, various waste from mining and sawing facing stone, fine gravel, marble and dolomite. The material is as close as possible to natural stone.

Pros and cons of brick construction

Brick types	Advantages	disadvantages
Adobe	Low cost	Low moisture and frost resistance
	Good sound insulation and thermal inertia	Walls dry for a long time and gain strength
Ceramic	Resistant to all climatic conditions	High price
	Low moisture absorption	The possibility of efflorescence
Silicate	Good sound insulation	High thermal conductivity
	High strength and frost resistance	High moisture absorption
Hyperpressed	Resistant to aggressive environments and climatic influences	High price
	Perfect geometric shape	Requires thorough drying before laying

Walls from foam blocks

The composition of the foam block includes sand, cement, foaming agent. It is used to build load-bearing walls and interior partitions. Advantages of the foam block as a building material:

environmentally friendly;
perfectly retains heat;
has the ability to "breathe" - to release water vapor outside;
excellent fire resistance - resistance to open fire for 8 hours;
good moisture and frost resistance;
excellent sound insulation;
significantly reduces the overall construction time;

With all their significant advantages, foam blocks have their disadvantages. They are a low-strength material: the wall can crack if overloaded. Trapped water at low temperatures will destroy the foam block. This can be avoided if the surface is plastered or treated with a special solution. Not all types of finishes are suitable for wall cladding made of foam blocks.

Ceramic blocks

Ceramic block or porous ceramic is a material made by firing clay blocks special form... There are 3 main standard sizes of this raw material:

№	Dimensions (edit)	Volume
1	219x250x380 mm	10.7 NF *
2	219х250х440 mm	12.4 NF
3	219x250x510 mm	14.3 NF

* NF - normal form, an indicator of the number of bricks of a given block volume.

The material is environmentally friendly and durable, like any ceramics.

Aerated concrete blocks in wall construction

Aerated concrete is a light cellular material obtained from a mixture:

lime;
cement;
fine-grained quartz sand;
water;
gas-forming reagents - aluminum powder is most often used.

The acceleration of the curing process takes place in autoclave installations.

Comparison of gas silicate and foam concrete - building materials for walls, favorably emphasizes the advantage of the former.

Aerated concrete - relatively inexpensive material, is non-flammable, environmentally friendly and durable. Special blocks are made from it.

Modern construction technologies allow to use different materials for the walls at the same time. Gas silicate blocks can be combined with bricks. This will ensure high thermal conductivity of the walls.

If a person does not have enough finances for individual construction, then it will be appropriate self-production wall material.

Brick or gas block

Brick - an artificial stone with dimensions of 250x120x65 mm. It is produced by firing clay. Aerated concrete block is an artificially created stone with dimensions of 600x400x250 mm.

Comparison of brick and aerated block

A wall built from a gas block is 3 times lighter than a brick one. This means that the frame will require less reinforcement. Given the ability of the building material for the walls of the house to transfer heat, the thickness of the brickwork should be greater. In terms of frost resistance - the ability of the material to maintain strength, brick is superior: it is more durable.

Aerated concrete blocks are used in the construction of walls of houses with a height of no more than 14 m. It is not recommended to build bearing structures of them. A feature of aerated concrete blocks is their high geometric accuracy. This allows for less costly glue laying. It is performed faster in comparison with cement.

Walls should be built in dry, clear weather. From aerated concrete it is forbidden to build wet rooms: saunas, baths, laundries. The walls for them are made only of bricks.

Aerated concrete blocks after a while after construction may decrease slightly in size, which will lead to cracks in the wall. This is not observed with bricks.

Gas blocks are easier to machine tools. Cutting and grinding of aerated concrete can be carried out directly on the construction site with standard hand saws. But the reliability of bricks when installing door and window openings is much higher. The fire resistance of a brick and a gas block is approximately the same.

Aerated concrete blocks are the cheapest material. But the construction of walls requires adherence to a special technology. The services of workers for such masonry are higher than those of builders working with bricks. However, brick walls are warmer and stronger.

Wood construction

Several types of wood are used as a building material: pine, spruce, larch, cedar, oak, linden. You should choose according to the properties of the tree and financial resources.

The advantage of wooden walls lies primarily in environmental friendliness. Wood is a natural conditioner. In such a house, it is warm in winter and cool in summer. The air in the room is renewed up to 30% during the day, so it is easy to breathe in it.

When heated, cracks do not form in the walls, which cannot be said about a brick house. Wooden structures- the most resistant to earthquakes, do not require additional insulation.

In terms of thermal conductivity, a log with a diameter of 20 cm replaces brickwork 1 m thick. This significantly reduces financial costs for the house and reduces the weight of the structure, which is economical for the depth and width of the foundation. Its price is sometimes 1/3 of the total value of the house. Wooden walls are built very quickly at any time of the year.

The main significant disadvantage of wood as a material for building walls is its high fire hazard. The disadvantages also include susceptibility to rotting, damage by fungus and woodworm bugs. The tree quickly collapses under the influence of the atmosphere: sunlight and moisture.

All these disadvantages are easily eliminated by specially designed chemical means... They are applied to the walls and prolong the life of the wooden house.

Glued laminated timber

Glued laminated timber is the leading material in wooden construction

Glued laminated timber is one of the leading materials in timber construction. It is collected from individual dried boards of appropriate sizes treated with antiseptic and fire-fighting agents. Then gluing takes place special formulations under high pressure. This is done in order to prevent cracking and twisting of the timber during drying.

The timber contains a special groove-ridge system, which allows you to assemble the walls as quickly as possible. Like many building materials for walls, it is environmentally friendly. Glued laminated timber belongs to the group of combustible materials. In the presence of protective treatment it is relatively durable.

Comparison of building materials

Comparison of materials for walls by main indicators

	Aerated concrete		Wood	Brick
Thermal conductivity	0,12	0,16	0,18	0,56
Strength	25	100	50	150
Fire resistance	1200	1500	300	1500
Shrinkage ratio	2	0,01	10	0,01

Thermal conductivity - the ability of a material to pass heat through itself - a brick has 3 times more than a ceramic and aerated concrete block. Based on the estimated cost, we can conclude that the cheaper material is a ceramic block. To achieve the correct thermal conductivity of the wall, it is enough to insulate the wall with a special material.

The strength of aerated concrete and wood is minimal compared to other types. This suggests that you should not build houses with more than 2 floors from these materials. Strength ceramic block and bricks allows you to erect buildings of almost any height.

The shrinkage factor is expressed as a percentage. The largest is by the tree. This means that one year after the completion of construction, the height of the wall will be reduced by 10%. Relatively low shrinkage coefficient for aerated concrete. Its low strength can cause cracking. The rest of the materials on this indicator can be ignored.

Aerated concrete is the cheapest building material. It is widely used in individual construction.

The choice in favor of one or another wall material is based on individual evaluative conclusions and an analysis of the characteristics of the environment.

According to the perception of loads, they are divided into:

carriers
non-bearing.

Depending on the materials used, the walls are conventionally divided into the following types:

wooden from logs, beams, wooden frame
brick made of solid and hollow clay
ceramic and silicate bricks n blocks
stone from cobblestone, limestone, sandstone, shell rock, tuff, etc.,
lightweight concrete from gas silicate, expanded clay concrete, slag concrete, argolite, sawdust concrete
soil concrete from adobe, compacted soil.

According to the constructive solution, the walls are:

chopped from logs and assembled from wooden beams,
small-block made of bricks and small blocks weighing more than 50 kg.,
panel or panel board made of ready-made wall elements per floor,
frame made of racks and straps with sheathing with sheet or molded materials,
monolithic from concrete and soil,
composite or multilayer using various materials and structures.

WHAT TO BUILD WALLS?

In the construction of summer cottages and cottages, walls are most often used the following materials: brick, lightweight concrete (foam concrete, expanded clay concrete, etc.), wood (timber, log) and wood with insulation (frame walls). For the construction of frame walls, it is undeservedly rarely used relatively new material- cement particle boards (DSP). Consider their advantages, disadvantages and construction costs (prices for April 01, will rise by the summer).

When choosing a wall material, consider the following considerations.
1."Rule of homogeneity" - all main walls (external and those internal, on which the floor rests) must be built of the same material and rest on the same foundation. A combination of brick and lightweight concrete, as well as DSP and wood when cladding frame walls, is permissible.
2.Distances between main walls(supports for wooden beams overlap) should not exceed 4 m. reinforced concrete floor(for brick walls) this distance can be increased up to 7 m.
3. Materials for the construction of walls and their constructive solution are chosen taking into account local climatic conditions, economy, given strength and durability of the building, internal comfort and architectural expressiveness of facades.

BRICK.
Dignity.
Brick walls are very durable, fireproof, not susceptible (unlike wooden ones) to the action of insects - pests and decay, and therefore they are durable. They allow the use of reinforced concrete floor slabs. This is necessary if you want to furnish a living space above a garage or a very large room. The small size of bricks allows you to build walls of complex configurations from them, lay out decorative elements of the facade. Due to the fire resistance of bricks, walls made of it can adjoin stoves and fireplaces, smoke and ventilation ducts can be laid inside brick walls. Brick walls have a high heat capacity and, therefore, thermal inertia - in summer it is cool behind them in any heat, in winter it is warm for a long time even after the heating is turned off.

Disadvantages.
Brick walls have a high thermal capacity and therefore thermal inertia, as well as a relatively high thermal conductivity. Therefore, if in winter the house has not been heated for at least two weeks, warm it up until comfortable conditions it will take several days. Brick readily absorbs moisture. Because of this, when seasonal operation the first weeks in a brick house are damp. The bricks that have collected moisture from the atmosphere in the fall freeze in winter, this leads (during seasonal operation) to rapid destruction - after 25 years the walls will require serious repair. Brick walls are very heavy and do not tolerate deformations, therefore, they require a strip foundation to the full depth of freezing. To ensure proper thermal insulation, brick walls must be very thick (in the Moscow region - 52 cm). The house has a useful area of 50 sq. m they will occupy "17 sq. m. - 1/3 of the area; for a house with an area of 200 sq. m. this ratio will be 1/6. After the completion of the masonry of the walls, a year should pass before finishing them, the walls must" settle "before finishing.

Output.
It is advisable to use bricks only in the construction of large cottages (several floors, floor area more than 200 sq. M), intended for year-round use.

Dignity.
The walls are made of lightweight concrete, fireproof, not susceptible (unlike wooden ones) to the action of insects - pests and decay, and therefore they are durable. The relatively small size of the blocks and the ease of their processing make it possible to build walls of complex configurations from them. Due to the fire resistance of concrete, walls made of it can adjoin stoves, fireplaces and smoke ducts. Concrete walls have a high heat capacity and, therefore, thermal inertia - in summer it is cool behind them in any heat, in winter it is warm for a long time even after the heating is turned off. Foam concrete walls, in comparison with brick ones, have a lower heat capacity and, therefore, thermal inertia, as well as a relatively low thermal conductivity. Therefore, if the house was not heated in winter, it can be warmed up to comfortable conditions in a day. The thickness of foam concrete walls can be half that of brick walls. Lining foam concrete walls outside with decorative bricks does not increase their weight much, but it strengthens the walls and saves you from worries about finishing. Brick walls are much easier and cheaper than brickwork.

Disadvantages.
Foam concrete readily absorbs moisture. Blocks that have collected moisture from the atmosphere in the fall freeze in winter, this leads (during seasonal operation) to rapid destruction - after 25 years the walls will require serious repair (this does not apply to expanded clay concrete, it is hydrophobic). Walls made of lightweight concrete do not tolerate deformations, therefore, they require a strip foundation or a foundation - a slab. After the completion of the masonry of the walls, a year must pass before the start of their finishing; the walls must "settle" before finishing. Cracks can form on walls made of foam concrete during settlement.

Output.
Lightweight concrete occupies an intermediate position between brick and wood, and the higher its specific gravity, the closer its properties are to those of brick. It is advisable to use it in the construction of small cottages (no more than 2 floors) and summer cottages intended for year-round operation.

SIMPLE BAR.
Dignity.
Lumber walls have low thermal conductivity. Therefore, if the house was not heated in winter, it can be warmed up to comfortable conditions in a few hours. For timber walls the thickness of 15cm is sufficient. Wooden walls create a healthy microclimate in the house, they remove excess moisture from the room. The timber walls are relatively light and resistant to deformation. They can be built on columnar foundation or the foundation "floating posts". Wooden walls can withstand an unlimited number of freeze-thaw cycles, and therefore their service life can exceed 100 years.

Disadvantages.
Walls made of wood are highly flammable and susceptible to the action of insects - pests and decay, and therefore require special processing and constructive protection from moisture and fire. After the completion of the felling of wooden walls, a year must pass before the start of their finishing, the walls must "settle" before finishing, and the settlement (up to 10%) is much greater than that of stone or frame walls (3 - 1%). The timber deforms when it dries. Caulking squared walls is a complicated and expensive procedure. To minimize the consequences of these troubles (deformation and poor caulking), the timber walls from the outside and from the inside have to be sheathed with clapboard or DSP.

Output.
It is advisable to use wood in the construction of small cottages (no more than 2 floors) and summer cottages intended for seasonal or year-round use.

PROFILED BAR, SIMPLE AND CYLINDED LOG.
Dignity.
The same as for timber walls. Plain log walls are more durable.

Disadvantages.
The same as for timber walls. In addition, walls made of these materials require careful and beautiful caulking.

Output.
It is advisable to use such a tree in the construction of small cottages (no more than 2 floors) and summer cottages intended for seasonal or year-round use, when purely aesthetic considerations are in the first place.

Dignity.
Frame walls with "double" thermal insulation made of lightweight materials (polystyrene, mineral wool, etc.) have the lowest thermal conductivity. Therefore, if the house was not heated in winter, it can be warmed up to comfortable conditions in a few hours. For frame walls, a thickness of 15 cm is sufficient. Frame walls are the lightest of all considered and are resistant to deformation. They can be built on pillar foundations or floating pillars. Frame walls can withstand an unlimited number of freeze-thaw cycles. CSP sheathing provides protection (albeit not absolute) from fire and moisture. In frame houses, the most free layout of the interior is possible. Costs of funds, effort and time for the construction of frame walls are minimal. There is no need to wait for "precipitation" before finishing. With well-organized work, you can enter a frame house a month after the start of construction.

Disadvantages.
Walls made of wood are highly flammable and susceptible to the action of insects - pests and decay, and therefore require special processing and constructive protection from moisture and fire. Lining - the main material for cladding frame walls quickly (within 1-2 years) dries up, cracks appear on the wall (with correct work, they are not through). It is believed that the service life of frame houses does not exceed 30 years, but the use of modern materials can significantly increase it. An increase in the size of the house (L walls> 9m, height -> 2 floors) leads to a significant complication of the frame and a decrease in reliability. The use of siding for cladding is unacceptable, since it "does not breathe" - it does not let water vapor pass through.

Output.
It is advisable to use frame walls in the construction of summer cottages intended for seasonal or year-round use.

Logging for log and cobbled walls, it is advisable to perform in winter, when the wood is less prone to shrinkage, decay and warping. For the walls they chop coniferous trees having a straight trunk with an escape of not more than 1 cm per 1 m in length. The diameter of the logs is chosen as the same as possible with the difference between the upper and lower cuts of no more than 3 cm. The thickness (diameter) of the logs is determined by the width of the longitudinal groove required for climatic conditions. At a design temperature of the outside air of - 20 ° C, it should be at least 10 cm, at - 300 ° C - at least 12 cm, at - 40 ° C - about 14-16 cm. The groove width is approximately 2/3 of the log diameter. The length of the logs is determined in accordance with the dimensions and layout of the house, taking into account the required allowance for felling a log house with the remainder (in a "cup"). When cutting walls, freshly cut logs with an average moisture content of 80-90% are used. They are easier to process and less deformed during natural drying when assembled. With a decrease in humidity to 15% (operating humidity in the middle zone of the country), the wood dries out and the size of the logs decreases in the longitudinal direction by about 0.1, in the transverse direction - by 3-6%.

Log wall cutting usually performed near the place of installation, laying the logs "dry" without tow. After the end of felling, the walls should "stand" assembled (for 6-9 months, the moisture content of the wood decreases 3-5 times), then the logs are marked, the frame is rolled out and assembled already on tow, on pre-prepared foundations. In the process of drying and operation, the chopped walls shrink significantly, reaching 1: 20-1: 30 of the initial height of the log house, therefore, a gap (depending on the moisture content of the logs) of 6-10 cm is left over the window and door frames. The seams between the logs are caulked 2 times : the first time in rough form after the construction of the house, the second - after 1-1.5 years - after the final settlement of the walls.

The cutting of the walls begins from the laying of the first (flap) crown made of thicker logs, hewn into two edges: one from the bottom side, the second from the inside. Since the logs in the longitudinal and transverse walls are displaced relative to each other by half their height, the first crown on two opposite walls is laid either on backing beams or plates, or on an uneven plinth. For better organization drain (with a protruding base) under the first crown on a layer of waterproofing, antiseptic boards are placed, to which galvanized roofing steel is attached. Bottom edge width flap- not less than 15 cm. Each subsequent crown of the log house is brought together with the previous one through a semicircular groove selected from the lower side of each log. To give stability to the walls, the crowns are interconnected with vertical plug-in thorns of a rectangular (6x2 cm) or round (3-4 cm) section 10-12 cm high, placing them in each row in a checkerboard pattern every 1-1.5 m along the length of the log house; in the walls, it is necessary to have at least two thorns at a distance of 15-20 cm from the edges. The holes for the spikes in height must have a margin for the draft, that is, they must be 1.5-2 cm more than the height of the spikes. Logs in a blockhouse are laid alternately with lumps in different sides to maintain the overall horizontal alignment of the rows. In the corners, the logs are connected in two ways: with the remainder (into the "cup") and without the remainder (into the "paw"). The intersection of the outer walls with the inner ones is also carried out in a "cup" or in a "paw". When cutting into a "cup" due to corner residues, about 0.5 m is lost on each log. In addition, the protruding ends of the logs interfere with subsequent cladding or wall cladding. Paw felling is more economical, but requires more highly skilled and accurate work.

Walls of beams are erected with less labor costs and it does not require highly qualified specialists. An individual builder, having ready-made beams, can do this work on his own .. Unlike logs, cobbled walls are assembled immediately on ready-made foundations. If the basement of the house is sinking, then the drain is not made and the first crown is laid on a waterproofing layer with an external overhang above the base by 3-4 cm. The corners of the first crown are connected in half a tree, the rest are either on root spikes or on dowels.

Corner connection of beams"end-to-end" is fragile and creates blown vertical slits.
The connection on the root thorns is more technologically advanced: the cut of the tree for the thorn and the nest is made across the fibers, and chipping is done along. In addition, with this connection, the spike seat is farther from the edge of the bar. To prevent horizontal shifts, the bars are interconnected by vertical pins (dowels) with a diameter of about 30 mm and a height of 20-25 cm. than the length of the dowel.

In the case of cobbled walls, in contrast to log walls, horizontal seams are flat and therefore rain moisture penetrates into the room through them. To reduce the water permeability of the seams, a 20-30 mm wide bevel is removed (rounded off) from the outer side of each bar on the upper edge, and the outer seams themselves are carefully caulked and covered with linseed oil, oil paint etc. The most effective protection of cobbled walls from atmospheric influences is cladding them with boards or cladding with bricks. This allows not only to protect the walls from the effects of external moisture and reduce the blow-through rate, but also to make them "warmer", and with brick cladding, and more fire-resistant.

To prevent biological destruction of wood, a ventilation gap of 4-6 cm wide is made between the boarding and the wall. If additional insulation of the walls of the house is necessary, this gap is expanded and filled with mineral wool. In this case, the top and bottom of the insulation must be left open. It is better to make the plank sheathing horizontal - this makes it easier to lay the insulation and creates more favorable conditions for vertical ventilation of the inner space. Brick cladding also installed with a 5-7 cm gap from the wall. For ventilation of the interior space (including those filled with insulation), air vents are left at the top and bottom of the brick cladding. Brick cladding is laid out either in half a brick, or with a modular brick having a thickness of 88 mm., "On the edge" and attached to the beams or logs with metal clamps, placed every 30-40 cm in height and after 1-1.5 m along the front the walls are staggered.

The clamps are a double-bent strip of galvanized roofing steel 3-5 cm wide and 15-20 cm long. Plating and facing of cobbled and log walls is carried out after their complete settlement, i.e. not earlier than 1-1.5 years after construction.

FRAME WOODEN WALLS
Frame walls are considered the easiest option for building a country house, since with relatively low wood costs, they can be no less warm and low-sound-conductive than felled log walls.

The frame, as a rule, consists of the lower and upper wall straps, stiffening struts, as well as such auxiliary elements as intermediate posts and crossbars, between which the door and window frames.

After assembling the frame from the outside, it is sheathed with boards about 20 mm thick. Instead, other durable and weather-resistant materials such as asbestos-cement boards can be used.

The following method is used to insulate walls. The boards are laid in two layers, leaving a space between them, which must be filled either with roll materials (tar paper, roofing felt), or with slab or bulk materials. Board and roll materials are attached to the wall with nails. The resulting seams are covered with plaster solution or caulked with tow. When laying slabs in two layers, the joints between the slabs of the first layer must be overlapped by the slabs of the second layer.

In order to prevent humid air from penetrating between the layers of boards, an insulating layer of roofing material is laid on the inside of the wall under the cladding, which is mixed with lime before use. It will reliably protect your house from rodents.

In addition to lime, slag, pumice, sawdust, moss, peat, sunflower husks, straw can be used as backfill. The lighter the material, the lower its thermal conductivity. Before use, it must be thoroughly dried and antiseptic. And only after such processing, mix, lay in layers and tamp.

But despite the fact that dry backfills have a number of advantages (relative cheapness, availability, protection from rodents), they are characterized by one drawback, namely, they precipitate at home with the subsequent formation of unwanted voids, which cannot be attributed to advantages. To prevent this, the walls must be raised 300 mm above the ceiling beams and filled with backfill; gradually settling, it will fill the voids. It is better to use under windows slab materials, and if this is not possible, then in this case we recommend that you arrange retractable window sills and add backfill through them.

Due to the fact that the backfill for the most part is considered a light and free-flowing material and, as we have already noted, gives a sediment, materials are added to it that turn it into a solid aggregate. One, perhaps, of the most commonly used materials is considered to be lime and gypsum (80% of sawdust is taken from 5% gypsum).

Some builders use wet backfills. When preparing them, it is necessary to strictly observe a certain ratio of materials, which are best taken in parts by weight. So, for example, 0.5 parts of gypsum and 2 parts of water are taken for 1 part of organic aggregate. Prepare as follows: poured layers of organic fillers, a binder on the striker, mix thoroughly and moisten with water. All this dries up in 2-3 weeks. Many builders make the mistake of using wet backfill when making thermal insulation materials(roofing felt, roofing material). In no case should this be done, since such materials can subsequently cause a fungus that is dangerous to wood.

The most effective heat-insulating material is slabs made of organic materials, 50x50 in size, 5 to 15 cm thick. For their manufacture, take 4 parts of clay dough, 0.3 parts of quicklime, 2 parts of water. In the absence of lime, you can use cement (0.3 parts per 2 parts of water). All constituent components are mixed; if they are dry, they must be moistened with water. Everything is thoroughly mixed again until smooth, laid in molds, rammed and dried under a canopy or indoors. Drying time depends on the binding agent. If you used gypsum or lime, then the drying time will be limited to two to three weeks, and if clay, you will have to wait three to four weeks.

BRICK WALLS.
For the masonry of the walls of residential buildings, bricks of various types are used. In order to save materials, it is not recommended to use ordinary solid brick... Solid walls are best laid out of light and hollow bricks, using two-row and multi-row dressing systems. With double-row dressing of masonry, the front rows of pokes alternate with rows of spoons and a significant number of halves and three-quarters of a brick is required for dressing. Laying in a multi-row dressing consists of spoon rows, overlapped through every fifth row (in height) with a butt row. The thickness of horizontal and vertical mortar joints should be no more than 10-12 mm. Examples of masonry walls and their details (corners, pillars, walls, as well as wall abutments) are shown in the figure.

When laying, the solution is fed to the wall from a box (with low sides) with a shovel-bucket and spread in the form of a convex bed. The brick must first be laid out on the wall for spoon rows in stacks of 2 bricks flat, with the long side along the wall, and for the butt rows with the long side across the wall. The masonry is carried out, observing strict horizontal and vertical rows, observing the correctness of the front surfaces of the walls. For better adhesion of the mortar to the brick, especially when laying in hot weather, it is recommended to moisten the brick with water before laying. This recommendation applies to all types of masonry. If the walls are going to be plastered in the future, then the masonry should be trowelled, that is, without filling the joints with mortar at the surface of the wall to be plastered. With this method, the plaster adheres more firmly to the wall surface. For masonry massive stone walls cold solutions are used, and for thin walls requiring an increase in thermal qualities - warm plastic solutions. In warm solutions, sand is replaced with ground fuel or blast-furnace slag, ash, ground tuff, pumice stone, etc. With external plaster, the wall on such mortars acquires the best thermal insulation qualities.

To install door and window frames, openings with trimmed quarters are left in the masonry. The openings are covered with prefabricated reinforced concrete, ordinary brick or wedge-shaped lintels. When arranging ordinary jumpers at the level of the top of the opening, formwork is installed from boards with a thickness of 40-50 mm, on which the mortar is spread with a layer of up to 2 cm and reinforcement (packaged steel, round 4-6 mm steel) is laid at the rate of 1 rod per 1/2 brick wall thickness. The ends of the reinforcement should go into the walls by 25 cm. Wedge lintels are also arranged according to the previously laid formwork, laying the brick on the edge from the edges to the middle of the lintel and with a slope at the edges to form a spacer (wedge). It is allowed to arrange jumpers made of tarred boards with a thickness of 5-6 cm, the ends of which should be deepened into the walls by 15-25 cm.

PARTITIONS.
Partitions must be soundproof, nail-proof, strong and stable. Partitions are installed on the floor structure prior to flooring. In places where partitions made of combustible materials are adjacent to stoves and chimneys, brick cuttings should be arranged along the entire height so that the distance from the partition to the inner surface of the stove or chimney is at least 40 cm.

FRAME.
The frame of the partitions consists of racks 5-6 cm thick and 9-10 cm wide with spikes at the ends, upper and lower straps of the same section with sockets for stud spikes. The racks are placed at a distance of 0.75-1.2 m from one another, with a thorn in the harness nest, and fastened with nails. To form a doorway, framing racks are installed with a crossbar (lintel) embedded on top. The door frame is nailed to the framing uprights. The frame is sheathed horizontally on both sides with boards with a thickness of 1.9-2.5 cm. Boards with a width of more than 12 cm are punctured with an ax so that they do not warp when plastering. The voids between the two skins are filled with fine sieved dry slag to increase soundproofing and reduce fire hazard. In some cases, the frame of an interroom partition can be sheathed with fiberboards and plywood sheets without any filling. However, such partitions, being very light and simple in their design, have a high sound conductivity.

GYPSUM PARTITIONS.
Partitions from gypsum boards placed before the device of a clean floor on boards with blocks nailed along the edges to form a gutter that prevents the boards from shifting to the sides. The laying of the slabs begins with the filling of the gutter in the bed with plaster mortar. The first row of plates is immersed in the solution with the groove up. The vertical seams between the slabs are poured with mortar. Before installing the next row of slabs, the groove of the first row is filled with mortar, etc. The partition is not brought up to the ceiling by 1-2 cm in order to be able to thoroughly dig in and seal the gap with mortar. High doorways are fenced with racks abutting against the ceilings. For low openings door frames installed before the device of the partition. The lintel is carried out by simply overlapping slabs (with an opening width of less than 1 m) or by laying two reinforcement rods filled with gypsum mortar. To protect the gypsum boards from moisture, in the case of supporting the partition on the concrete base of the floor of the first floor, 2 rows of brickwork are laid under the partition on a layer of roofing roofing or roofing material. After laying plaster partition plaster or rub.

BRICK PARTITIONS.
Brick partitions are laid with a thickness of 1/2 brick (12 cm). The basis for partitions can be concrete preparation for the floors of the first floor or reinforced concrete ceilings. By wooden floors brick partitions, due to their significant weight, should not be done. Laying is carried out by tying vertical seams. The surfaces are plastered on both sides. The adjoining of brick partitions to walls and ceilings is carried out in the same way as with gypsum partitions. Above doorways arrange jumpers, resting them on 2 reinforcement bars in a cement mortar.

20392 0 1

How to solve a problem: decorating walls in an apartment - 5 ideas for your peace of mind

Modern wall decoration in the apartment is one of the critical milestones any repair. A well-chosen type of decoration will not only help make the interior of your dreams come true, but also save money and time.

And so that in the process of choosing a finish you are not based only on the feeling “oh, it looks nothing”, I suggest you familiarize yourself with the most popular and proven materials with their advantages and disadvantages.

Where to choose

During the repair process, many may face the problem of choosing the right options. It is not surprising, there are a lot of materials now, each of them has its own advantages, it is not clear what to buy. I hope my article will greatly facilitate your task, and you will not regret the money spent.

Idea 1. Wallpaper

For many years, the wallpaper still does not want to give up the palm in the competition for the most popular finishing material... The assortment is more than impressive: here you can find relatively inexpensive paper, more expensive and durable vinyl and even wallpaper with a 3D effect.

When buying wallpaper, you should consider what room it is intended for:

So, what is the best way to decorate the kitchen? Of course, washable vinyl wallpaper, which is not afraid of drops of grease and soot.

For a nursery, you can stay on light paper or vinyl wallpaper. The latter are good because it will be possible to remove all the artistic "masterpieces" of your child from them. The first option captivates with its cheapness and the possibility, after a certain time, as it gets dirty, to simply replace them with others.

If you nevertheless decide to decorate the bathroom with wallpaper (as for me, not the most the best solution), it is better to buy a moisture-resistant material. Otherwise, do not be surprised by the appearance of fungus in the places where water droplets accumulate most.

For the assortment is not much limited. Depending on the interior, you can opt for non-woven, liquid, fabric, photo and 3D wallpaper.

Sticking

When all the options for decorating the walls in the apartment have been revised, and the choice fell on the wallpaper, it's time to figure out how to glue them. This must be done according to the following scheme:

Remove the old wallpaper, also clean the walls from the glue on which they were adhered.
Remove all previous layers of plaster, whitewash or paint with a spatula or special brush.

Smooth the surface with a putty to give it perfect (or so) smoothness, prime.

After the primer has dried completely, you can start the gluing process.
If you purchased wallpaper without a pattern, then they should be cut into strips of the same size, while leaving gaps of 2-2.5 cm on both sides. If a pattern is applied to the coating, then the wallpaper will have to be combined according to the pattern. In this case, the consumption of materials will be higher.

Next, the wallpaper must be coated with glue and applied to the wall.

When the material is attached to the wall, it must be properly smoothed from top to bottom and air bubbles removed.

Here is a small instruction that may be useful to you during the repair process.

Idea 2. Paint

Previously, the paint was most often used for facing the outside of the house, but over time it has moved to apartments. I can refer to its main advantages:

a huge assortment of colors;
variety of textures;
the ability to decorate walls with any pattern using special curly rollers and special tools.

The most popular options include the following types of paint:

alkyd;
glue;
water-based.

I will analyze each of them in more detail.

Oil and enamel paints, which are classified as alkyd. This finishing material is excellent for both external and interior decoration... Additional benefits include UV and moisture resistance.

Of the minuses, I can single out helplessness against acid and a not very attractive indicator of fire safety.

Glue paint, or rather its composition, is much more gentle for the body in the process of decorating walls. In addition, it perfectly allows air to pass through, which is important for children's rooms and bedrooms.

Water-based paints are easily soluble in water, which makes them easy to use with your own hands. They fit perfectly in an even, dense layer and look great on matte surfaces.

Just keep in mind that on the walls, previously opened with varnish or glue paint, the water emulsion will not stick.

Application features

The walls are painted as follows:

First, the joints with the floor and ceiling are glued with masking tape to protect them from contamination.

This is followed by the process of cleaning from the remnants of the previous coating, sealing cracks and covering the wall with a primer.
If necessary, you will need to walk in some places with sandpaper for the surface.

Next, you should dilute the paint to the required consistency and proceed directly to the application.

You can wield the brush in any direction: from top to bottom, from left to right, or crosswise. The main thing is not to combine these methods with each other.

Idea 3. Plaster

For many, plaster can be associated with preliminary leveling of the wall before major repairs. But now, decorative plaster is breaking through to the top of the list under the name "modern materials for decorating walls in an apartment" and is starting to be in great demand.

Depending on the appearance and characteristics, the plaster is divided into:

mineral;
acrylic;
silicate.

Why is decorative plaster so good? At least in that it allows you to create a beautiful imitation of almost any material on the walls. Even a couple of simple strokes with a spatula are able to beneficially update the interior of the room.

Decorative finishes have at least several advantages:

The ability to create an imitation of a more expensive material (granite, textured wallpaper, metal).

A wide range of textures and colors.

The ability to carry out wet cleaning of the coating after its application.
The ability to hide all kinds of irregularities and imperfections on the walls.
No need to level the walls to perfect condition before decorating.

Long service life. With proper handling, plaster can last 35 to 60 years (impressive numbers, right?)

Such finishing methods will ideally fit into almost any interior.

But, as you know, in a barrel of honey you can't do without a fly in the ointment. Despite all the advantages of plaster, it also has its disadvantages. Among them, the following stand out:

The price of plaster often exceeds average cost wallpaper at least one and a half times .
Incorrect application of the material significantly reduces its service life. Therefore, in the absence of certain skills and experience, it is worth paying extra for the work of specialists.
Plaster is not easy to remove if necessary.

Idea 4. Plastic panels

Decorative wall decoration is a real testing ground for all kinds of experiments with colors and textures. So why not think about a rather unusual, but no less striking version of the cladding? To him I can include decorative plastic panels, which every year more and more often appear in modern interiors.

When installing the panels, it becomes possible to insulate the walls, which is definitely important in the cold season.
With the presence plastic panels you will no longer have to think about how to decorate the corners in the bathroom, because the material perfectly transfers moisture and prevents the appearance of fungus.
On sale you can find panels with various parameters, texture and appearance.

This finish is very easy to install and does not require any special skills.
Installation of panels does not require preliminary cleaning and leveling of the walls.
The material creates good sound insulation due to the small distance between the panel and the wall itself.

The cost of the panels will suit even the most modest budget.
Plastic panels look very much like standard plywood sheets. Moreover, if there is a flat wall, they can be fixed simply with ordinary liquid nails.

Among the main disadvantages of such a coating, three important factors can be distinguished:

Panels are not manufactured from natural materials, and accordingly, in small doses, they can release toxic substances.
Such a coating is difficult to classify as durable, since it does not tolerate mechanical stress rather well.

For fans of original solutions, special 3D panels have been created. According to their characteristics, they are similar to ordinary ones, but they outperform them due to their unusual convex shape.

Despite the visual appeal of 3D panels, I would not recommend covering all walls of the room with them. But to make one of them accent is a very sensible decision.

Idea 5. Drywall

Finishing materials for cladding uneven walls really cannot boast of a wide assortment. Not every coating will look perfect with a bumpy base. But this nuance does not apply to drywall.

Among his distinctive features can be distinguished:

In any condition of the walls, in the end you will get a perfect smooth coating... Even if you decide to change the interior, you will have at least 4 smooth surfaces at hand.
Drywall makes it possible to additionally insulate the room, while the thickness of the insulation will depend solely on your capabilities and desires. Using the same scheme, you can install waterproofing, thereby solving problems with sound insulation.

The process of installing sheets is not so difficult, and it is quite possible to complete it yourself.

Agree, the benefits are quite significant. But I can't just praise, it's time to move on to the tangible shortcomings:

Such a design would be inappropriate in a room with high humidity.
If you install drywall sheets relatively far from the wall, you won't be able to mount heavy objects on them.

Alternative solutions

Above, I have described not all options for finishing. The list includes only the most demanded and popular ones. But my article would be incomplete without mentioning, albeit not so common, but from this no less spectacular ways of decorating walls.

Tiled disgrace

Until recently, I (I think, like many of you) considered tiles to be the material for the bathroom and kitchen. The last fashion trends they point to the opposite. Tile, with proper handling, can be successfully applied in the interior of the hallway, or what the hell is not kidding - the living room.

Why should you at least think about using tiles outside the kitchen? There are several reasons:

The material is very durable and easy to clean.
The tiles are characterized by quite good sound insulation, which will come in handy with the thin Khrushchev walls.
This material is refractory, so in terms of fire safety he has practically no equal.
The assortment of colors allows you to decorate any decor.

With the pros, everything is clear, are there any disadvantages to this coating? And, alas, there are drawbacks. Among them:

complete lack of the ability to lay tiles with high quality without the help of professionals;
ceramics can hardly be called one of the most budgetary options, but it is hard to deny that high-quality tiles look luxurious and fully deserve their considerable price.

By the way, here's a little more for you useful information, which may come in handy during the renovation process. Ceramic tiles are divided into 5 types, depending on the scope of its application:

Tiles exclusively for wall decoration.
Material for flooring(excluding walking on it in street shoes).

For office and residential premises, in which there is not a lot of crowds of people.
Tile for use in areas with heavy traffic.
A versatile material suitable for styling anywhere.

Why not a stone?

Decorative stone, despite all its showiness and beauty, is not included in the TOP-3 of the most popular materials. The point is its high cost, which is not available to everyone. But apart from that, decorative rock(or brick) has a lot of advantages, which I have no right not to mention.

This material is very durable, its service life is approximately 50 years..
Not possessing special skills, but having studied a good instruction, even a simple layman can cope with installing the coating.
All kinds of additives that are now part of the decorative stone allow you to create a coating with all kinds of textures.
This material is completely environmentally friendly.
The stone brings originality and unusual notes to the interior.

Of course, artificial brick or stone cannot avoid comparison with a natural analogue. Against this background, it has only three drawbacks:

Its shelf life is still less than natural counterparts.
It is inferior to them in strength.
In large quantities, decorative stone cannot be used, as it makes the interior heavier.

What is Linkrust?

I confess that I learned about such a magical material with a strange name relatively recently. For those who are unenlightened like me, I will explain: linkrust is a material in the manufacturing process of which a thin layer of gel based on linseed oil or an alkyd resin with a filler (cork or wood flour).

One of the main features of the coating is that it mixes equally well with both water-based and oil paints.

If at first linkrust was positioned as a more affordable alternative to expensive stucco molding, now it is used to implement the most unusual and original ideas.

What does the use of the material give us?

Unusual and original appearance of the walls.
Sustainability based on the use of natural resins and additives.
Plasticity that allows the linkrust to adapt successfully even to uneven surfaces.
Resistant to high temperatures.
High strength index.
Durability.

And according to tradition, after describing the advantages, I will point out the obvious disadvantages, which, of course, are:

Installation of linkrust can hardly be called simple, and it requires special dexterity.
Low temperatures are destructive for such a material.
After installing the coating, it becomes necessary to constantly support it. original form... Accordingly, periodically you will have to finish it with paint or varnish.

Finally

I cannot show you the only correct way of wall cladding in your apartment, it is simply impossible. But I can (and tried to do it) objectively tell about the options available, you just need to choose the most suitable for yourself. If you are still in doubt, then perhaps the video in this article will facilitate your choice.

In case you are still undecided or you have any questions, write to me in the comments. I will gladly answer everyone and try my best to facilitate the process of your repair.

October 28, 2016

If you want to express gratitude, add clarification or objection, ask the author something - add a comment or say thank you!

An individual developer is necessarily faced with the question of choice optimal material for the construction of a residential facility. The choice of building materials for the walls takes into account climatic features, embossed nuances, financial capabilities, etc. There is no single formula on this score. All materials for construction have different strengths, require the use of a unique construction technology, and have different levels of thermal conductivity.

What determines the choice of material for the house

Building walls accounts for a quarter of all home building costs. A careless attitude to the choice of material will entail additional subsequent expenses. Therefore, it is worth considering and considering all important criteria and factors when choosing better material for building walls at home:

Labor costs... For example, the cost of time and effort will decrease if you build a house from panel blocks, rather than from bricks and other small elements. Modern panel houses can be made several times faster, especially if it is frame structures.

Thermal insulating properties of the material... When choosing a deliberately cold material for the walls, the developer will pay a high price in winter for such a rash step. The owner will also have to deal with the insulation of the walls of the house from the outside. When calculating this indicator, the current climatic conditions are taken into account.

Price question... If you give preference to a durable and lightweight version of the material for the walls, then you can save on building a powerful foundation, which is expensive to make.

Considering also the subsequent costs of finishing work. Today there are modern smooth wall materials that do not require finishing.

Log house - one of the options for walls that do not require finishing

Types of materials for walls

The building materials market offers a wide selection different options for the construction of the walls of your home. There are several types of bricks alone: silicate, clinker, ceramic, fireclay. And wood has been one of the most popular and demanded building materials for many years. The cost of such raw materials depends on the type of wood (pine, oak, birch, cedar), the type of material (logs, boards, beams). A very popular and more economical option is different kinds blocks: foam blocks, ceramic blocks, thermoblocks, lightweight concrete blocks, etc. In Europe, for example, houses are most often erected using the frame method, which is very fast and inexpensive. About 70% of the private housing stock in Europe is occupied by frame technology construction of buildings. Builders also note the cost-effectiveness and energy efficiency of SIP panels.

Consider the main types of materials:

Log houses and log houses

A log house is an object made of cut trunks of a solid tree. Work such as cutting corners, adjusting joints and grooves is always done manually.

Such houses look presentable, soundly and have a lot of advantages:

Architectural version of a house made of logs

The disadvantages of log buildings include:

Log house

Glued or profiled timber is a cheaper building material for the walls of a house, which is in great demand today.

Pros of timber:

In addition, such material is relatively inexpensive.

However cant:

They say that such a structure can be built alone, with certain knowledge and skills. But the scheme of its construction is more complex and ornate than, for example, a brick one.

Frame house under construction

All the advantages of frame houses:

To the disadvantages frame structures should be attributed:

The echo of walls and ceilings;

The need to have a competent construction project, where all the drawings and diagrams of fasteners and assemblies will be.

The disadvantages of such houses can also be attributed to the conservative mentality of our citizens, who look with apprehension at frame structures, considering them unreliable.

SIP panels

Canada and America have been actively using frame-panel technologies in construction for more than half a century. In our country, this method is not yet so popular. SIP-panel is a three-layer building material, which is made of two layers of OSB and internal insulation of expanded polystyrene.

This is what the SIP panel looks like

Advantages of SIP panels:

In addition, SIP panels are an environmentally friendly building material.

This is how a house built from SIP-Panels looks like without facade decoration

Its disadvantages include the following aspects (of which, by the way, there are many):

Brick walls

Brick is the most common and most affordable material for building outside walls at home. It is usually made from clay and is enhanced with various impurities. All the advantages of bricks:

The disadvantages of building materials include:

Expanded clay blocks

Ceramic blocks are made of red clay, just like bricks. But the blocks differ from them in more overall dimensions. This option for building walls from ceramic blocks is very similar to the technology for building brick houses.

Pros of ceramic blocks: