How a frame house is built: the main stages of construction. Frame houses: the pros and cons of frame construction Wooden house using frame technology

In our country, until recently, houses were built mainly from log cabins, bricks or concrete, but now the time has come for new technologies, and frame houses have appeared in this segment. They are very popular due to the unique combination of high quality and low financial costs. But the main thing is the ability to make a durable frame house with your own hands without the use of special equipment. Therefore, we have made detailed step-by-step instructions for you.

The guide itself consists of 7 steps:

choice of place for the house;
design;
foundation installation;
frame assembly;
walling;
thermal insulation;
roofing.

The construction of a frame house has the main advantage over other technologies - the rapid pace of construction without the involvement of special lifting mechanisms. Inexpensive frame buildings are put into operation in one season, but such a speed in no way worsens the comfort and quality of living - these parameters are no worse than those of wooden and stone houses.

Site selection

In accordance with the urban planning regulations of the Russian Federation, your residential building must be located at least 3 m from the official boundary of the site. Also, in most cases, local regulations regulate a 5-meter indent from the red line of the street to the house.

It should be noted that all skeletons belong to the IV and V degrees of fire resistance, therefore, in accordance with fire safety standards, the distance from your building to the house on the neighboring site should be at least 10 meters.

The remaining requirements for the placement of the house are presented in this image:

We draw up a project

According to the Federal Law, the developer is obliged to be guided by the project created by professional design organizations. The documentation drawn up must also be agreed upon by authorized officials of various services, where changes and / or additions may be made.

In fact, local authorities require only a preliminary design, including a master plan scheme, plans, section, facades and main technical and economic indicators. Such a project costs no more than 10,000 rubles, and you can order it after the fact after construction before commissioning.

However, for your convenience and savings on alterations, we recommend that you choose a suitable standard project or draw up an individual one, taking into account personal preferences and wishes. In both cases, it is necessary to mark up all communications and add engineering systems to the plan.

An example of a typical draft design

We draw your attention to the fact that standard projects traditionally cost less, and individual ones allow you to realize your own ideas. Individual drawings from the project documentation are drawn up taking into account the binding to the relief and other features of the site - only such scrupulousness can guarantee the long-term operation of the dwelling without problems and major repairs.

Engineering systems

To build a frame house, it is necessary to provide for the inclusion of all engineering networks in the project. They are laid in strict sequence, and you need to start from the foundation. In the case of using a concrete base, all technological holes for communication systems must be made at the time of pouring, so that after hardening, complex drilling of holes is not involved.

The electrical system consists of a switchboard, electrical wiring, sockets and grounding. The distance between points for sockets should be no more than 4 m. Sockets with covers are installed near water sources. The ventilation system includes air ducts with holes. Is it worth mentioning that the ease of access and use of taps, switches, as well as the functioning of drains and sewerage depends on the correct layout of pipes and wires?

Foundation installation

Construction technology provides for the use, or. The strength of the base is increased with the help of reinforcement and monolithic strapping. It is possible to make a high-quality foundation only after conducting a geological analysis of the soil.

In most cases, a simpler base is sufficient for a frame house, which can easily withstand light loads. The most appropriate -. Such a foundation does not require a large amount of materials, which reduces the cost of construction estimates by an average of 15-20%.

In the case of a monolithic foundation, it is necessary to dig a trench, compact the soil and pour a sand cushion. Before you start pouring concrete, you need to make formwork and install reinforcement bars. The solution during the pouring process is necessarily rammed. Vertical studs half a meter long are placed in the liquid concrete of the base every 2 m - the lower trim of the frame will be attached to them. The surface of the resulting grillage must be leveled with cement mortar.

Bottom trim

Seven days after the work on pouring concrete, a lower trim of wooden beams with a section of 15x15 cm is laid over the entire surface of the foundation. The wood is pre-treated with antiseptic agents, and two layers of roofing material are laid along the bottom, which plays the role.

The beam can be fixed with anchor bolts or foundation studs. If bolts are used, then technological holes up to 10 cm deep must be drilled under them.

floors

When all the wooden beams are laid and connected to each other and to the foundation, grooves are formed in them and floor logs are placed (board 50x150 mm). The upper part of the log is aligned horizontally, and boards are nailed along the bottom - they will serve as the basis for the subfloor device. Membrane insulation is laid on the resulting plank base (it does not allow weathering and wetting of the insulation, while not preventing water vapor from escaping). In the intervals between the lags, you need to press in the insulation (mineral wool or polystyrene) and cover it with a vapor barrier. A cut board (40x15 mm) is laid on top.

Create a frame

From the very name of the technology, it is clear that the main element of such a structure is the frame, and it is on it that the entire structure is held. The skeleton consists of vertical posts fixed with crossbars and horizontal strapping. As before, here the entire construction process is carried out in stages.

Wood is used as the material. It is recommended to choose coniferous timber with a low degree of moisture, ideally chamber drying. The height of the racks must correspond to the same parameter of the room. The racks are connected with nails 10 cm long. After fitting the elements, there should be no gaps.

Depending on what load will affect the bearing supports, and also based on the size of the insulation and sheathing material, they plan the distance between the uprights. The universal section of the racks is 150x50 mm, a double beam of 150x50 mm is placed in the openings. The most popular step is 600 mm (allows you to install the insulation “in tightness” to tightly fill the wall). Temporary braces are used to connect the racks with the lower trim, which makes the structure acquire the necessary rigidity.

Scheme of the device of the corners of the walls

The installation of the upper trim is carried out after the installation of all racks. Fixation occurs with the help of the same grooves that fastened the lower beam. The upper fastening to the uprights is carried out with two nails, which must enter the material by at least 10 cm. The final fixing of the frame is carried out by permanent cuttings installed instead of the dismantled temporary ones. Read more about this in the article "". We also recommend that you familiarize yourself with the most important device.

We insulate the walls

The outer walls of the house are sheathed with imitation timber, wooden clapboard, plastic, as the owner of the house wishes. Warming is best done with mineral wool. It is environmentally friendly, durable and does not burn, which makes skeletons even more profitable and in demand.

Scheme of proper insulation of frame walls

The material is pressed into all the gaps between the beams to remove voids. A hydro- and windproof membrane will help protect the tree from moisture, which is mounted on top of the insulation on the racks, and only then the lath crate for the ventilation facade is stuffed, which will be hidden under the outer cladding. From the inside, OSB or gypsum fiber boards mounted on top of the vapor barrier are suitable for wall cladding.

Building a ceiling

The ceiling is attached to the floor beams, which, in turn, are fixed with nails or steel brackets on the top trim beam. Where interior partitions are installed, support bars must be installed, in place of which a wooden ceiling shield is nailed.

Roof

Before starting work, determine the degree of slope, the number of slopes, the type of roofing, the design of the truss system.

A roof with a complex shape looks attractive, but it is difficult to implement, therefore not cheap. Most often found, allowing or attic space. Here it is necessary to install only one skate, there are no valleys at all, which eliminates the accumulation of precipitation and leakage. To prevent snow from lingering on the roof, plan a slope of more than 28º, but not more than 50º, otherwise the wind load will increase.

The cross section of the rafters is determined according to the thickness of the insulation material placed between them. It is best to take a board with a caliber of 150x50mm and a length of 6 m. Two boards need to be knocked down in the shape of the letter L, and then they are lifted up and the angle is determined, making sure that the overhangs go beyond the level of the wall by 30-50 cm. Now the boards can be assembled with the help of a crossbar, and we will get a semblance of rafters.

The upper trim acts as a Mauerlat here. According to the made sample, rafters are created for the entire roof, not forgetting a step of 600 mm. The rafters on the ridge are installed on the pediment and the installation of the remaining elements is continued along them. The type of roofing material depends on what the crate will be.

roofing material

The step-by-step instruction ends at the stage of installing the roof cladding. You can choose , or . All of these materials are easy to work with, affordable, and look decent. After facing works, it remains only to install drainpipes and a drainage system, which will be responsible for the removal of precipitation outside the site.

Now you imagine the whole process of building a frame house with your own hands , so that the structure is strong and warm. If you do not ignore the rules of construction and assembly technology, you will become the proud owner of your own home, which you can only dream of.

The construction of frame houses came to us from abroad. These lightweight structures are the basis for the construction of country houses and cottages in Scandinavia and a number of European countries. The basis of the construction technology is assembled frames made of wood or a metal profile; mineral wool and basalt insulation are used for insulation. The wall takes on a finished look after it is covered with various plates, for example, DSP. The final version of the coating is already applied to these plates.

Which frame to choose - metal or wood?

As a material for the frame, a new dried timber of various sections, made of coniferous species, is used.

Undoubtedly, wood has a number of properties that give it advantages over stone and metal - this is the ability to breathe, and much more. But at the same time, wood has drawbacks, without appropriate treatment it is prone to the appearance of fungus or mold, in addition, under a number of conditions, it becomes possible for strains of harmful microorganisms to appear.

All of these factors lead to the fact that some developers prefer frame structures made of metal. The metal profile has a zinc coating, which can guarantee long-term corrosion protection. In addition, the necessary perforation has already been prepared on the metal profile for frame housing construction.

The difference between frame housing construction and environmental friendliness. Only natural wood and the possibility of using natural insulation.

In addition, a frame house is possible without the help of a large team.

Now it is believed that a frame-panel house can only be a country house. However, the experience of many European countries, for example, Swedish or German technology, tells us about the good opportunity to use a frame house in winter and summer for. Reviews also confirm this.

So, let's start building a house with step-by-step, step-by-step instructions. We hope they help you.

Preparatory work

Buying a frame house is not difficult, just contact a specialized company selling such products or, having developed a project yourself, build your own home. The order of construction work can be displayed in the following list:

research;
Design;
Foundation construction;
Construction of a box, roof;
Warming, finishing works and arrangement of engineering systems.

In the first two stages, the possibility of building a house in this place is clarified. If possible, then the type of foundation, its design is determined. As a result of these works, a specification and estimate appear, which contains a list of materials and tools, their estimated cost. Before starting all these preparatory work, the developer must draw up a technical task for the future home.

Laying the columnar base of the foundation

Depending on the condition of the soil and the mass of the future house, the developer determines the type of foundation. Practice shows that any type can be used as a foundation - a foundation on screw piles, or a columnar one. When building a columnar foundation, it is necessary to have on hand at least an approximate drawing of the location of the walls.

The essence of this foundation is that the pillars will be placed in the corners of the building and in places of maximum load on the structure. For the foundation of this type, concrete, brick is used.

Before starting work, it is necessary to mark the location of the pillars.

After its implementation and quality control, you can begin to manufacture the pillars themselves. To do this, you can use a separate formwork, or you can arrange their production directly on the site.

The first step is to make a pillar support, it is called a shoe. Look at the photo, it shows a pile with a shoe schematically. Its dimensions are up to 30 cm in height and 25–30 cm in cross section. The structure of its design includes a reinforcing mesh, which is located parallel to the surface of the earth, several vertical reinforcing bars can be installed - they will be the basis for the pillar. After the shoe hardens, you can make the main part of the foundation pillar. To do this, you can use either a pipe cut or build a wooden formwork. The height of the entire structure is equal to the sum of two terms - the depth of the pit (freezing height) and the value of the column above the ground (from 100 mm).

Some experts use traditional M300 concrete as a material, while others use sand concrete. In fact, the type of concrete used must be determined at the stage of calculation. The main thing to remember is that the material for making the shoe and the base must be the same. For further work, it is necessary to allow the finished parts to dry. This process will take at least 7 days, but if you use bricks or cinder blocks, the drying process is accelerated by several days.

After the poles are ready, you can start installing them. To do this, you need a hole drill, which will allow you to dig a hole under the pole. The size of the pit should exceed the size of the shoe. Installation of pillars is carried out in strict accordance with the layout of the foundation. The poles are installed at a distance of 1-2 m from each other in places of greatest load, for example, under a heating boiler. After installing the pillars, the space between them and the walls of the pit can be covered with rubble and sand.

Construction of the wall frame

Rostverk - a platform for the home

The completion of the construction of the foundation allows you to begin work on the construction of the main supporting structures. The basis of the walls and everything else in the frame house is the grillage. This is a wooden or metal structure that is laid on foundation pillars protruding from the ground. According to its contour, the grillage repeats the outlines of the future house. When laying it, it is imperative to use measuring instruments that allow you to control its horizontalness. The dimensions of a beam or a metal profile are determined by the weight of the building structure being erected.

Building a wall frame

After installing the grillage, you can begin to install the wall frame. To do this, you can use a beam with a section size of 150x50 or more. The beam must be made from coniferous trees and dried to a state of 12-18% moisture. In addition, we must remember that all wooden structures must be treated with protective agents against mold, fungus and fire.

The wall frame can be assembled side by side on a flat piece of land; when assembling the frame, it is necessary to immediately prepare window and door openings. The finished frame of one wall can be installed on the grillage and secured with jibs. As with all assembly operations, builders must use a measuring tool to install wall frames in a strict plane orientation.

House roof installation

Creating a roof is one of the most important moments in building a house using frame technology. Errors that occur during its construction lead to deformation of the roof, violation of the thermal insulation regime. As a result, it may be destroyed. The ceiling ceiling is responsible for solving several problems, namely:

Hanging a ceiling covering on it;
Heat retention.

If the developer provides for a second floor or, then the ceiling must be reinforced. Depending on the load that the ceiling will take on, the size of the section of the ceiling beam is selected. For example, if the useful and non-residential load is 147 kg per square centimeter, then it is necessary to use beams with a section of 150 * 50 m with a step between them of 400 mm.

The process of installing logs and rafters for them does not differ from such a process carried out during the construction of a traditional house.

That is, after marking, the logs are nailed to the top bar of the wall frame in a vertical position.

In order to fix the log, it is enough to use three nails, two are driven in on one side, and one on the other, at both ends.

The rafters can be assembled on a flat area of the construction site and, after assembling them and checking its correctness, lift them up. The assembly of the roof begins with one of the facades, the use of a plumb line is mandatory. Having exposed the first rafter, it is necessary to fix it with jibs, and after installing the second, it is advisable to tie the installed structures. In addition to the fact that the rafters are interconnected, to increase the strength of the structure, it makes sense to connect the rafter and the log using a vertically lowered board. This is how the rafters are installed sequentially.

The installation of the lathing also does not differ from such an operation carried out during the construction of a roof on an ordinary house. Laying of hydro- and thermal insulation is carried out in accordance with the instructions attached to this product. Both artificial and natural materials are used as heat-insulating materials. To reduce the weight of the structure, it is advisable to use foam, which is produced in sheets of different thicknesses.

Another positive property of a frame house can be called the fact that all finishing work can be carried out without waiting for it to shrink. They can be carried out immediately after it is in the openings, and the wall frame itself is sheathed with slabs. Then the developer can start finishing the walls from the inside and outside.

Internal work in the house

The material that is used for wall cladding from the inside, and this can be DSP or its analogues, allows you to apply almost any finishing material on its surface - wallpaper, tiles and others. It all depends on the choice of the developer and the interior design of future premises.

outdoor work

With work on finishing the house outside, the situation is somewhat more complicated. Depending on the climate zone in which the frame house is built, additional insulation may be required. For these works, you will need a heater, a waterproofing film, as well as a wooden beam or a galvanized metal profile to create a crate. To insulate the walls, a crate is installed on them, made of a wooden beam or a metal profile.

The dimensions of the crate must correspond to the dimensions of the insulation that will be laid in it. Some experts recommend laying a layer of waterproofing film on top of the insulation. If the task is to create a ventilated facade, then it is necessary to fix the smaller bars to the vertical bars of the installed lathing, and the siding will be attached to them. The resulting space will serve for natural ventilation and prevent excessive moisture from accumulating.

How much does it cost to build a house

The experience of building a frame house by those who rely only on their own strength shows that the entire cycle of work from the construction of the foundation to the start of finishing, with the correct organization of work, the absence of interruptions in materials and the presence of one or two assistants, can be three to four months.

Building a house with your own hands is also beneficial from an economic point of view. When buying a finished structure, the developer pays for the project, building materials, in addition, the labor of builders and installers is paid, by the way, who will build the house in about the same time frame. The price of the project is from 5-50 000 rubles. If you buy a finished house project, it will cost about 15,000 rubles, and if you order an individual house project from an architect, it will cost 30,000 - 50,000 rubles. Now many architectural workshops work remotely, so even being in Biysk they will be able to design a dream home project for you. In other words, with the cost of a finished house and work on its construction at about 1.5 million rubles, it must be understood that this figure depends on the region and configuration, building on your own will cost half as much. For example, some companies offer their customers country houses at a price of 1,115,000 rubles to 1,824,000, and cottages - within 300,000 rubles.

If you are not ready to build a house or you do not have the opportunity, then order a turnkey house using Canadian, Scandinavian or Finnish technologies.

Video

Watch a video about building a frame house with your own hands.

If you want to build a house as quickly as possible and relatively inexpensively, then you should prefer frame technology. The frame builders have their own advantages, thanks to which these buildings are very popular. However, do not neglect the disadvantages that any structures have. The technology of frame construction is quite simple, so you can easily build a house yourself. To correctly choose the technology by which your frame house will be built, you need to study the features of each of them.

Advantages and disadvantages

First of all, it is worth listing the pros and cons of frame buildings. The technology of building a frame house allows you to get structures that have the following advantages:

Frame buildings are quite warm, and this, despite the small thickness of the walls. The thing is that most of the wall structure is occupied by heat-insulating material, and special methods of connecting components and parts make it possible to avoid the formation of cold bridges.
The cost of running a house is small. Due to the high tightness of the house and the good thermal insulation qualities of the walls, it takes a little money to heat such a building, because the heat in the room is retained for a long time. Moreover, the walls of the frame structure are quite strong and durable, so they do not need special care during the operation of the house.
The technology of frame housing construction is so simple that you can easily build a house yourself. At the same time, you will not need heavy construction equipment.
The technology of building a frame house itself is relatively inexpensive, so by purchasing standard projects, you can significantly save on construction. You will receive additional savings on the construction of the foundation, which can be made lighter due to the small specific gravity of the wall material.
The frame house can have any configuration and architectural style. You can build a one- or two-story house, a building with an attic, a garage, a balcony, a terrace or a veranda. In any case, this house will cost less than building a similar layout of brick or concrete. Applying different facade finishes, you will get buildings that are completely different in style.
You will spend 2-3 months on independent construction of a house using frame technology. If the construction of the building is entrusted to a team of qualified workers, then the construction will take even less time (several weeks). Since the structure does not shrink, you can finish the house and move into it immediately after construction.
Frame construction can be carried out at any time of the year (even in winter), since there are no “wet” processes during the construction of the box. The only thing worth doing before the cold weather is to equip the foundation.
In a frame house, it is much easier to carry out hidden laying of engineering communications.
Frame buildings can be used as seasonal residences. The thing is that the design of the walls can easily withstand the winter period without heating. The walls will not lead, they will not warp, they will not become damp.

Very often you can find the opinions of experts that frame houses, the construction technologies of which we will describe in our article, have many disadvantages. However, is this really so, judge for yourself:

You can often hear the opinion that the main drawback of the frame is the impossibility of redevelopment after construction. However, this statement is true only for frame-panel houses. A frame house built using frame technology can be re-planned, since light partitions are not load-bearing structures.
The opinion that a frame building can be built no higher than one floor is a delusion. Indeed, panel houses are not recommended to be made two-story, but you can afford the attic floor. If you need a two-story house, then choose a frame-frame construction technology.
The myth that a frame house has a short service life (no more than 75 years) can be easily debunked. At the end of this period, the house needs to be renovated. However, the thing is that even a house made of any other material needs repair and replacement of some parts, for example, roofing. Since the frame of such a house is reliably protected from any weather influences, the structure can last up to 100 years.
It used to be believed that the frame house was not very warm, but the frame technology has been improving over the years, new heat-insulating materials, effective wind barriers and vapor barrier membranes appear, so now there is no doubt about the heat-insulating qualities of such a house.
The only thing that is true is that the noise protection of a frame house is slightly lower than that of buildings made of brick or stone.

Varieties of technologies

We list the most common technologies for the construction of frame houses:

PKD technology;
frame buildings according to Canadian technology (houses made of SIP panels and construction according to the "Platform" system);
houses according to German technology (factory kits for a panel building);
fachwerk technology;
frame buildings.

If you decide to build a frame house, the construction technology may differ slightly, so you should consider in detail the features of each frame construction.

PKD technology

DOK technology is the construction of a house with a double volumetric frame (DOK). The design and construction of such houses is justified in the conditions of regions with a harsh climate. The main distinguishing features of structures built using this technology are the following points:

Additional warmth and comfort in the premises of the house are achieved due to the fact that there are no cold bridges in the wall structure. Thanks to this, the life of the house is significantly increased.
The design of the walls provides for additional measures to protect them from the accumulation of condensate and the reduction of thermal insulation qualities during operation. In particular, a special ventilation gap is used for this.
In the construction of this technology, only high-quality materials are used.
Frame houses using DOK technology are built only using chamber-drying lumber.
During construction adhere to European quality standards.

Thanks to this, a special energy efficiency of enclosing structures, as well as their strength, is achieved. The main condition is the displacement of the frame racks relative to each other. After laying the basalt insulation, the wooden racks of the frame are covered with heat-insulating material, which eliminates the formation of cold bridges.

Canadian Technologies - "Platform" system

Such a frame house can be assembled at the construction site or components for it can be manufactured in the factory. Since the walls of the house are assembled from shields, the buildings belong to the category of frame-panel houses.

Important: boards are a construction made of OSB, plywood and other sheet wood materials with heat-insulating core inside.

They are installed on a mounted platform made of logs and oriented strand boards. Shields are installed with a groove on a special ridge of the platform. From above, all panel elements are connected by an upper strapping. Also, the shields are additionally fastened together. The joints are carefully insulated with mounting foam.

As you can see, the peculiarity of the installation of shields provides that each of them is also a load-bearing element, so redevelopment of such a house is impossible. After the installation of the walls of the house, the roof is erected, engineering communications are laid, and the walls are finished.

Canadian technologies - SIP panels

the two outer layers are sheet wood material (OSB or moisture resistant plywood). The most commonly used oriented strand board is 1.2 cm thick;
the layer of heat-insulating material can be of different thickness, which depends on the climatic conditions of the construction region. Usually, expanded polystyrene is used for these purposes.

There is a groove at the ends of the SIP panel to facilitate fixing to the beam, which will act as a frame. The same beam is installed not only in a vertical position, but also as an upper and lower horizontal wall framing.

Important: SIP panels are used not only to form wall structures, but also as the floor of the first floor, as well as ceiling slabs.

German technology

The construction of houses according to German technology differs from the above methods in that panel panels, which are manufactured in the factory, are used to build a house. Moreover, windows and doors have already been installed in them, communications have been laid, insulation has been laid, and primary wall decoration has also been completed. Overlappings are also assembled in the factory.

Due to the significant weight of one panel, lifting equipment will be required for its transportation and installation. All this contributes to the rise in the cost of building a house. However, the principle of connecting panels in the wall structure is the same as that of the technologies described above.

The disadvantages of this technology include the following:

the quality of assembly and insulation of shields in the factory cannot be controlled;
for installation and delivery you will need construction lifting equipment;
the strength and reliability of the house is lower than that of buildings erected using frame-frame technology.

half-timbered houses

Such buildings are built using frame-frame technology. For the manufacture of the frame of this house, glued beams with a cross section of at least 15x15 cm are used. Then the space between the racks of the frame is filled with the selected material. It can be stone, brick, sheet material with insulation inside, glass, concrete, adobe, etc. Thus, the house is assembled at the construction site. In addition to the vertical and horizontal racks of the frame, diagonal ties and transverse bars are necessarily used.

The main distinguishing feature of a half-timbered house is that the frame is not hidden in the wall structure, but is put on display. Moreover, it is usually painted in a contrasting color and stands out against the background of lighter walls. Such houses are characterized by large areas of glazing.

Frame-frame technology

This method of building a house is ideal for self-construction due to the simplicity and availability of technology. To build a house, you do not need construction equipment, all work is carried out on the construction site manually. The layout and design of a frame-frame house can be very different.

The essence of the technology is that at the construction site, the frame of the house is first erected from a bar. Then outside it is sheathed with wood sheet material. After the assembly and installation of the roof, the walls of the house are insulated from the inside and sewn up with OSB or plywood. In the construction of such walls, a wind barrier, a hydro- and vapor barrier membrane are necessarily used.

In order to master the step-by-step construction of a frame house yourself, at least in its simplest version, it is enough to master the basics of the crafts of a carpenter, locksmith, finisher, etc. We are talking about the usual master's skills from the professional arsenal of most of the male population. Of course, the true labor costs and immersion in theoretical issues already depend on the chosen approach to construction (type of project, method of erecting a frame, participation of assistants in the production process, etc.).

If everything is done correctly, then within one season, with a relatively small financial investment, you may well become the owner of your own home. Therefore, and also taking into account the optimal ratio, private developers often choose it.

From what and how to build

Before you build a frame house with your own hands, you should perform a number of preparatory activities, select a project and materials, deal with the nuances of technological stages, etc.

Choosing a construction method

If you have already decided to do without the involvement of installation teams, you still have several possible ways to build a building.

1. Frame and panel technology

It has several implementation options. You can order a "house set" of multi-layer or with design parameters at a specialized company. A constructor made of fitted elements will be delivered to your site, equipped with instructions for assembling a frame house. This is not cheap, but the least laborious way. It allows you to become the owner of your own home in a short time. For example, a box of prefabricated elements is mounted on a prepared base in a day. Of course, for this you will have to invite a couple of assistants and rent a truck crane.

Panels can also be made by hand directly at the construction site. Their assembly is carried out in a horizontal position on a suitable flat area. Next, the finished wall parts are installed and fixed vertically. This method allows you to achieve good accuracy in the independent manufacture of building elements, and the help of helpers is required only to lift and fix the panels in the design position.

2. Frame-frame technology

With its classical implementation method, a step-by-step construction of a frame house is carried out from a set of its entire skeleton, which is then filled with insulation and lined. On the one hand, the advantages of this method are that it is less demanding on the accuracy of the geometric parameters of lumber. Each rack or jumper is installed individually and immediately in its design position. This allows you to level on the spot some defects in the geometry of the frame elements. On the other hand, such a frame-frame assembly is quite difficult to implement independently at any of its stages. It is almost impossible for one person to simultaneously hold a rack or jumper, set and fix it in level.

A certain optimization of the process can be achieved by the method of building a frame house, partially combining panel and frame assembly. For example, you can order the frames of walls and ceilings at the enterprise. You will receive high-quality products at an affordable price, the installation of which does not require the use of lifting equipment. You can also make frames yourself, and start filling and sheathing them after assembling the skeleton of the box and covering it with a roof.

The main materials used for building envelopes

The prototypes of domestic carcasses are objects built using the technologies of Canadian-American and European masters. This continuity is confirmed even by the fact that one of the main industry standards SP 31-105-2002 "Design and construction of energy-efficient single-family residential buildings with a wooden frame" was developed on the basis of the Canadian Housing and Construction Regulations.

frame

Indeed, the skeletons of the predominant number of skeleton builders are built from a board or a bar. For example, in many standard projects of residential buildings designed for the temperate climate zone, softwood lumber is laid:

for bearing and walls of the external thermal circuit - a board 150 * 40 mm (H * W) or 150 * 50 mm;
for floors - a board 200 * 40 mm or 200 * 50 mm, as well as a bar of identical height with a thickness of 100 mm or 150 mm.

When choosing lumber, preference should be given to planed products dried to a standard moisture content of 12-18%. They cost more than edged boards for general construction purposes, but saving on them will subsequently cause a lot of problems, in particular:

wet wood is strongly warped during shrinkage, which leads to deformation of the panels, as well as opening the joints between them;
initially curved boards significantly complicate and slow down the installation process, and its aesthetic results leave much to be desired.

Important! The elements of a frame house can be connected using steel corners, nails or self-tapping screws. In this case, preference should be given to nails with a textured surface, for example, anchor (perfect, corrugated).

Frame filling

Frames of internal floors and partitions are recommended to be filled with fibrous soundproofing materials. Often, mineral wool with special acoustic properties is used for this. In confirmation of its specialization, the appropriate marking must be applied to the packaging of the material.

The external thermal circuit is assembled on the basis of any effective insulation with a thermal conductivity parameter not exceeding 0.1 W / (m * 0 C). At the same time, filling the frame with bulk material is allowed only in ceilings or mansard roofs with a slope of not more than 1:5. For thermal barriers of walls, slab (roll) fibrous, foamed or sprayed insulation is used. Do-it-yourself frame house is most often insulated:

stone wool with a density of 30-50 kg / m³;
glassy density 15-20 kg/m³;
expanded polystyrene with a density of 15-25 kg / m³.

Frame sheathing

The technology for building a frame house provides for a phased covering of the structural skeleton with layers of vapor and waterproofing, as well as protective or protective and decorative cladding.

Of particular importance is the creation of a reliable vapor barrier from the inside of the room. The thermal contour of the building is built according to the thermos system with a relatively thin shell. In the cold season, its inner and outer surfaces are affected by a significant temperature gradient and partial pressure of water vapor. Humid air tends to go outside, including through walls and ceilings, where condensation falls out of it. And this is already unacceptable, as it threatens to damage the thermal insulation, frame elements and cladding.

Therefore, for vapor barrier on the inside of the frame, roll materials with almost zero vapor permeability are used. These are:

special vapor barrier films (anti-condensation, laminated, foil, etc.);
polyethylene sheet from primary raw materials (thickness 150-200 microns);
kraft paper.

In contrast to the assembly from ready-made factory panels, the step-by-step construction of a frame house with your own hands also involves the installation of waterproofing on the outside of the thermal circuit panels. Preference should be given to membranes that do not prevent the free exit of steam from the thermal insulation. In the case of installing an outer skin with a ventilation gap, the waterproofing must also have windproof properties.

Further covering of steam and hydrobarriers is carried out with any sheet or piece material that meets the operating conditions and the wishes of the owner: clapboard, OSB, drywall (only inside), corrugated board, DSP, etc.

How to save material

To simplify all stages of the construction of a frame house, you can take a standard project as a basis, customize it for yourself, spending very little time. Of course, these are minor changes. The dimensions of wall and ceiling panels, door and window openings, as well as the pitch of the posts, logs, beams of the structural skeleton are best adjusted, where possible, taking into account their multiplicity with the overall parameters of the insulating filler and sheathing sheets. Thus, it will be possible to minimize the amount of trimming and save time on cutting mineral wool, OSB, drywall, etc.

For example, the practiced pitch of the racks of 400 mm allows you to mount a 1200 * 2500 mm plasterboard vertically without side trim. But mineral wool with a roll (plate) width of 600 mm fits comfortably only in the clearance of "European" racks.

It is more difficult with the selection of the multiplicity of the outer skin. So, with a horizontal orientation of some popular sheet products, they will be installed without trimming at the next step of the racks:

Material	Sheet length, mm	Number of racks per sheet (excluding the last, common with the adjacent sheet)	Pitch, mm
DSP	2700	4/5/6	675/540/450 640/533,3/457,1/400
OSB	2440	4/5/6	610/488/406,6
Cement Aquapanel	1200	2/3/4	600/400/300

It can be seen from the table that external DSPs with a length of 3200 mm, with a rack pitch of 400 mm, or Aquapanel (a pitch of 400 mm and 600 mm) will correlate well with internal gypsum boards. You can use OSB sheets 2500 mm by installing the GKL horizontally (step 500 mm). But in this case, you will already have to trim the mineral wool.

Take into account the offers of the network

When adapting a frame house project to waste-free technology, first you need to decide on the materials you want and are available in your area. Specify their exact dimensions. The same mineral wool is not always 600 mm wide. It has a significant variation in size, depending on the manufacturer. For example, the width of popular mineral wool slabs or rolls, mm:

Isover - 565, 600, 610, 1180, 1190.1200, 1210.1220;
Knauf - 570, 600, 610, 100, 1100, 1200;
Ursa - 600, 610, 1200.

Important! When measuring the width of the thermal insulation and the step of the racks (lag), do not forget to take into account their thickness. At the same time, slabs or strips of mineral wool rolls must be laid tightly and without gaps. Therefore, their width is taken at least 20-30 mm more than the width of the frame clearance.

Do not violate the design parameters!

Carried away by the achievement of waste-free construction, it is unacceptable to deviate from the design characteristics laid down by the developer of the frame house project. Changes to it should be made very carefully. For example, an excessive increase in the pitch of the racks can lead to a significant loss in the strength of the building. On the contrary, the frequent installation of racks will lead to a decrease in the thermal resistance of the outer panels, since the thermal conductivity of wood is several times higher than that of mineral wool. Therefore, if a total reconstruction is planned, then you will have to resort to the help of a specialized engineer or to thoroughly study the calculation systems yourself.

Stages of building a frame house

Foundation

Skeletons are one of the lightest structures of capital construction. Therefore, for their installation, often, the least material-intensive pre-fabricated foundations are used. For example, from screw piles. Their supporting structures are assembled on the basis of groups of steel pipes linked into single spatial systems.

The form factor and the depth of immersion of the supports depend on the load applied to them, the bearing capacity and the freezing of the soil. Thus, the main characteristics of the pile are:

the diameter of the helical blades, which decreases with increasing density of the rock. Weldable helical surfaces can be completely replaced by threaded threads for particularly dense soils or permafrost;
the diameter of the steel pipes - the larger it is, the greater the load the support bears. At the same time, without the use of equipment, piles up to Ø 108 mm can be screwed. On them, frame houses are usually erected with their own hands;
immersion depth, which averages 2-2.5 m. The blades of the supports should be placed below the freezing depth of the soil in its dense layers;
treatment with anti-corrosion compounds.

Installing a wine foundation

You will need the help of 2-3 people to screw the screw piles. Before their installation, trees, bushes, large-sized objects are removed from the site, as well as next to it. Places for installation of supports are marked on the site. It is convenient to do this in accordance with the scheme for building a frame house, its foundation part. Supports are installed at all nodal points (crossings of walls) and on straight segments with a step of 1-3 m (no more than 3.5 m).

In order not to look for or make special clamps or grips for screwing piles, you can drill a couple of holes in their upper parts. The ends of the gate levers will be inserted into them. In the process of immersing the supports, their verticality should be corrected.

After the installation of the last pile, they are cut in the same horizontal plane, and the pipes are filled with concrete mortar.

The strapping beam (grillage) is made of rolled metal or wood. In the first case, a frame of I-beams or a channel is welded onto the pipe sections, repeating the projection of the walls. In the second, platforms made of sheet steel 8-10 mm thick. A frame made of timber with a section of 150 (200) * 150 mm is attracted to the platforms with bolts.

All metal elements are treated with anti-corrosion compounds, and under the wood parts, gaskets of 2-3 layers of roofing material of any type are installed.

Floor (floor)

Step-by-step instructions for building a frame house with your own hands may include the installation of walls or ceilings as the next step. In the case of a screw foundation, it is more convenient to make a floor slab, and then take on the walls.

If a wooden beam serves as a grillage, which is better with full manual assembly at the construction site, then beams (logs) or a finished skeleton of the floor frame overlap are immediately installed on it. For free spans up to 3 m, a single board per edge (200 * 50 mm) is used, for wider ones - a double board or a bar 200 * 100 mm. At the stage of installation of the screw supports of the foundation of a frame house, installation of additional piles may be envisaged, and at the stage of laying the strapping, additional transverse beams 200 * 150 mm to reinforce the extended spans of the floors.

The choice of the lag step is also important. The recommended thickness of the flooring for rolling the upper subfloor or batten elements will depend on it. In addition, we do not forget about the principle of multiplicity of materials, which contributes to their savings. For example, if the lag step is taken as 600 mm, then for arranging the upper subfloor, you should take a board of at least 35 mm thick.

Floor assembly example

The floor slab structure of a frame house is shown below. For the lower rough roll, an unedged board with a thickness of not more than 25 mm is taken. Set apart. Wind protection can be laid freely, but vapor barrier with mandatory gluing of joints with mounting tape. The overlaps of the paintings of both types are at least 15 cm. The crate on top is made of a board 35 * 100 mm or a bar with a side of 40-50 mm. The thickness of OSB should be commensurate with the frequency of the crate, but be at least 12 mm.

Important! The step-by-step assembly of the floor of a frame house is distinguished by its variability, which depends on the materials chosen, the preferences of the owners, as well as accessibility to the bottom of the slab.

The optimal option is when the floor frame is made separately in the form of a panel skeleton with a stuffed lower part (from rough rolling and wind protection) and end boards. Then it is turned over, installed in the design position and its further equipment is carried out (insulation, vapor barrier, etc.). With this method, it is convenient to mount the lower draft floor and wind barrier.

At the same time, according to the established tradition, lags are often initially installed on the harness. Then they are lined with an unedged board and a wind barrier is laid, as shown in the figure below. This leads to some difficulties at the stage of fastening the padding, as well as not quite correct operation of the wind barrier.

It remains to be added that the interfloor floors are assembled according to a similar scheme. The main difference is that instead of the lower rough roll, a decorative finish (gypsum board, tongue-and-groove board, etc.) is mounted on a rack or bar lathing, and instead of a wind barrier, a sealed vapor barrier is installed.

Wall assembly

Despite the fact that with any assembly technology, the structure of the finished walls will be basically the same, the following points should be considered:

when making panels in a horizontal position, do not forget that in finished form they have a specific gravity of 30-50 kg / m 2. Therefore, in order to then be able to freely put sections of the walls in place manually, they must have a small quadrature. Otherwise, it is better to assemble on the site only the frames of the house panels from the board 150 by 50 (40);
to give rigidity and stability to the vertical frame, use temporary diagonal elements from boards of the same section;
inside the wall panels, permanent braces should be installed in cases where subsequent sheathing on either side cannot provide longitudinal rigidity. For example, if drywall is stuffed from the inside, and lining from the outside. If you install an OSB or DSP board outside, then you do not need to leave the braces inside the frame.

It is better to start the layout of the vertical frame with your own hands from the outer skin. Those. a waterproofing membrane (wind barrier) is attached to the posts and covered (with or without a ventilation gap) with facade cladding. Further, thermal insulation is laid between the racks, vapor barrier and inner lining are mounted. An example of such a layout is shown in the figure below.

Roof

The roof structures of a frame house are no different from those built over buildings of any other type. You also have two main options - to assemble a cold roof with a ventilated attic or an insulated one, under which you can equip another attic floor or mezzanine floor.

The least time-consuming is the assembly of pitched flooring over an unused attic space. Indeed, in its structure there are no layers of insulation and vapor barrier, and often the design of the internal decorative filing. However, in this case, you will have to take care of the thorough heat, steam and waterproofing of the upper floor over the constantly used household and residential premises in advance. If the project for the construction of a frame house involves the construction of a warm attic floor, then it is better to lay acoustic insulation in the interfloor ceilings. At the same time, the presence of a vapor barrier film is mandatory only above wet rooms (kitchens, bathrooms, baths, etc.), but, for example, it can not be laid above the living room.

The structures of warm roofs with various types of coatings fundamentally differ only in the way the lathing is installed:

under soft coatings, such as bituminous tiles, it is typed in a continuous roll from a board, moisture-resistant plywood or OSB;
under coatings made of rigid materials (slate, corrugated board, metal tiles) - more often from slats (bars) with a certain step, but sometimes also a continuous roll of wood materials.

Step 2: Bottom rail and floor

In order for the wood of the frame not to draw moisture from the concrete, cut-off waterproofing of the foundation is necessary. The most reliable way to do this is with bituminous mastic. And better - in two layers. You can also use rolled waterproofing. Cheaper roofing material, but it breaks down over time. More reliable hydroisol or other similar modern material.

You can smear the grillage once with mastic, and roll out the waterproofing on top. Another option for cut-off waterproofing under a frame house is two layers of waterproofing, smeared with mastic: the closer the groundwater is, the more thorough the waterproofing should be.

The first layer is liquid waterproofing. Until it dries, you can glue a layer of roll on it.

Then the beds are laid - boards measuring 150 * 50 mm. They must be dry, impregnated with bioprotective and flame retardant compounds. The edge of the bed is aligned with the outer edge of the foundation. In the necessary places, holes are drilled for the studs (the diameter of the hole is 2-3 mm larger than the diameter of the stud). Then the second board is laid. It is laid so as to block the junction of the first row. It turns out a castle.

The second board is laid so that the joints overlap

In general, one beam 100-150 cm can be laid, but its price is much higher than two boards, which in total give the same thickness, and correctly fastened two boards have a large bearing capacity, though it takes more time to lay them. In order for them to work as a single beam, they are knocked down with nails in 20 cm increments in a checkerboard pattern.

We put the harness and lags

The next stage is the installation and installation of the lag. These are the same boards 150 * 50 mm, placed on edge. They are fastened with two oblique nails (9 cm) at the end to the strapping board, two nails to the right and left to the bed. So each lag on both sides.

The photo shows that the first lag is installed close to the second - this way the load on the foundation is better transferred. It is installed along the second edge of the bed. The installation step is 40-60 cm. It depends on the span length and the section of the sawmill used: the longer the length, the smaller the step.

If the logs are long, and there is a cross beam, as in the photo above, so that the logs do not “leave”, jumpers are stuffed over the cross beam. They are equal in length to the lag installation step minus twice the board thickness: if the lag step is 55 cm, the board thickness is 5 cm, then the jumper will be 45 cm long.

Insulation and flooring

After the base for the flooring is mounted, it's time to insulate the floor. It can be done in different ways, with different materials. We will show an economical option - with foam polystyrene plates with a density of 15 kg / m3 (more is possible, less is not). Of course, it is not environmentally friendly, but the only one is not afraid of moisture and can be mounted without a subfloor. The estimated thickness of the insulation is 150 mm, two layers are laid: one 10 cm, the second 5 cm. The seams of the second layer should not coincide with the seams of the first (shift).

To begin with, a 50 * 50 mm cranial bar is stuffed along the lower edge of the lag. It will hold the foam.

Styrofoam is cut with an ordinary hacksaw. The canvas can be taken on wood - it is cut faster, but a torn edge is obtained, or on metal - it goes more slowly, but the edge is smoother. The cut plates are stacked in two layers, the seams overlap. Then they are glued around the perimeter with a sealant - to ensure waterproofing.

Next, lay a draft floor from boards, level it and lay plywood on top (preferably FSF 5-6 mm). So that the rough flooring from the boards does not warp, lay the boards alternating the direction of the wave. If you look at the cross section of the board, the annual rings go in a semicircle. So, you need the arc to either look up or down (see photo).

You can do without flooring from the boards. Then the thickness of the plywood should be at least 15 mm. Consider what is more profitable in your area and choose.

In any case, the sheets should be stacked in a run - the seams should not match (as in brickwork). Do not forget to leave a gap of 3-5 mm between plywood sheets to compensate for dimensional changes with changes in humidity.

Plywood is attached to self-tapping screws 35 mm long (white is better - less marriage) around the perimeter in 12 cm increments, inside in a checkerboard pattern in 40 cm increments.

Step 3: Frame Walls

There are two ways: the wall frame is assembled (all or part - depending on the size) on the floor, then it is lifted, exposed and fixed. Sometimes, with this method, OSB, GVL, plywood are attached directly to the floor from the outside of the frame: the rigidity is greater. This technology is called frame-shield or "platform". Factories mainly work according to this principle: they build ready-made shields according to the project in the workshop, bring them to the site and only mount them there. But frame-panel housing construction is possible with your own hands.

The second way: everything is going gradually, in place. The beam of the lower trim is nailed, the corner posts are set, then the intermediate ones, the upper trim, etc. This is the technology that is called "frame house building" or "balloon".

Which one is more convenient? It depends on how many people work and whether it is possible, at least periodically, to attract assistants. Working on the floor is faster and more comfortable than jumping up/down the ladder countless times. But if the section is assembled large, then it will be difficult to lift it even with two people. The way out is either to call assistants, or to break the wall frame into small segments.

Installation step and section of racks

Corner posts should be 150 * 150 mm or 100 * 100 mm, depending on the load and the required width of the insulation. For a one-story frame house, 100 mm is enough, for a two-story frame house - at least 150 mm. The intermediate posts are the same in depth as the corner ones, and their thickness is at least 50 mm.

The installation step of the racks is selected taking into account the load, but in reality it is more often selected based on the width of the insulation. If you will insulate with mineral wool in rolls or mats, first find out the actual width of the material. The gap between the posts should be 2-3 cm less than the width of the insulation. Then there will be almost no waste, gaps and crevices through which heat will escape - too. The density of installation of insulation in the frames is the main point, because only it will serve as protection from the cold. The slightest violation will lead to the fact that the house will be cold. Therefore, the selection of insulation and its installation must be treated with full attention.

Racks can be fastened in several ways: with wooden dowels, with a notch or on corners. The cut into the board of the lower trim should be no more than 50% of its depth. Corners are attached on both sides. Fastening with dowels is an old technology, but difficult to perform: long dowels are cut out, a hole is drilled obliquely through the rack and the beam of the lower trim, a wooden spike is driven into it, the excess of which is cut off. It works well if the wood is used dry. If not, drying out and loss of fastening rigidity are possible. Installation on reinforced corners is much easier.

According to Canadian technology, the beams to which windows and doors are attached are made double. There is more load here, therefore, the support should be more powerful.

Reinforced racks near windows and doors are a must. Only in this way will a frame house built with your own hands be reliable.

Bevels or braces

If the outer skin is planned from high-strength board material - OSB, GVL, GVK, plywood - temporary cuts are placed from the inside of the room. They are needed to align and maintain the geometry until the outer skin is attached. The strength of this material is enough to create the required structural rigidity.

If the lining is planned to be type-setting - from lining, etc. installation of permanent jibs is required. Moreover, the best option is not those that are placed on several racks, but four small pieces for each: two on top and two on the bottom (as in the photo below).

Pay attention, in the photo above, the racks are prefabricated: two boards are knocked together with nails all over in a checkerboard pattern. Such racks have an even greater load-bearing capacity than solid ones, and cost less. This is a real way to reduce construction costs without losing quality. But the time for construction increases: a lot of nails have to be hammered.

Frame house corners

Most questions arise when building corners. If you put a beam in a corner, then there seems to be no difficulties, except for the fact that the corner turns out to be cold. In regions with short and mild winters, this is not a problem, but already in central Russia it requires some kind of solution.

There are several ways to make the corner of a frame house warm. All of them are shown in the diagrams, so clearer.

After assembling the frame, most often it is sheathed on the outside with OSB, plywood or other similar material.

Step 4: Overlay

The floor beams are supported by the upper trim beam. There are several mounting methods:

on supporting steel brackets;
to the corners;
with inset;

Notching - the depth of cut should not exceed 50% of the thickness of the upper trim beam. From above it is clogged with two nails, which must enter the harness by at least 10 cm. Corners are the usual method. You can use reinforced, but not necessarily Perforated staples - the shape may be different

The dimensions of the beams, the step of their installation depend on what will be on top. If the second residential floor or, the section is taken more, the step is made smaller: so that the floor does not sag. If only the roof and the attic are supposed to be non-residential from above, these are completely different calculations and sizes.

If the second floor is being completed, the ceiling is sheathed with a draft floor of the second floor. So it will be easier to work on creating the second floor of a frame house. Its assembly is no different from the construction of the first. Is it only because all the lumber has to be dragged to the second floor.

Step 5: Rafter system and roofing material

When developing a house project using frame technology, the most popular are or. Their device is no different. All the same principles and calculations. The only restriction concerns the weight of the roofing: it must be a lightweight material, the load from which the wooden beams and ceilings can withstand.

Temporary braces were used to fix the rafters in a predetermined position before the crate was stuffed.

Another relatively inexpensive technology

Step 6: Warming

You can insulate a frame house with any of the materials available on the market with the appropriate characteristics. All of them are imperfect, but all problems have standard solutions.

The most popular insulation for frame walls is basalt wool. It is produced in the form of rolls or mats of different densities. It is more convenient to install mats in the walls: they are denser and hold themselves well due to the bursting force. To do this, as mentioned above, their dimensions should be 2-3 cm more than the distance between the racks of the frame. Mats, of course, are additionally fixed with special fasteners, but it is more convenient to work than with a soft roll.

Mineral wool has high thermal insulation characteristics, good sound insulation. But there is also a serious drawback: it is afraid of getting wet and it must be protected from all sides not only from moisture (rain), but also from the penetration of steam. Therefore, from the side of the room, it is closed with a layer of vapor barrier membrane, which prevents vapors from penetrating inside.

From the side of the street, the thermal insulation made of mineral wool is covered with another membrane, but of a different type with different characteristics: a hydro-wind-proof vapor-permeable membrane. It is not blown through, from the side of the street it does not allow moisture in the liquid and gaseous state to pass through, and vapors can escape from the insulation: vapor permeability is one-sided. After installing the insulation, only finishing work remains. Actually, everything, construction is over.

Now you know how to build a frame house. The detailing of some processes is far from complete, but you have the general assembly sequence. Perhaps more videos from a professional carpenter who has been building frame houses for decades will help you (see below).

Video instructions for the installation of frame houses

These are three videos of the excellent carpenter Larry Hohn. Each one is over an hour long. The technology for building a frame house on a finished foundation is described in great detail.

According to this instruction, self-construction is possible without question: all the stages of building a frame house and the little things are commented and explained, up to which nails, what length, how many pieces with what step, to hammer in each node. Demonstrates the main problems that may arise and methods for their correction. If you decide to build a frame house with your own hands, take the time to watch the movie. Much will become clear to you.

The first part is the bottom harness and the floor.

The second part of the video is the device and assembly of frame walls.

The third part is the construction of the roof of the frame house.

If you still doubt whether it is worth building a frame house, it is probably because you heard that this is a bad technology, that it does not work for us. There is such an opinion. But it is based on the fact that Canadian and American frame houses are placed from a dry forest, with moisture. no more than 20-22%. In our conditions, wood of almost natural humidity is brought from the sawmill, and this is up to 60%. Because the house leads and twists, they become cold.

But if you are going to build a house with your own hands, what will prevent you from using dry wood? It is expensive for chamber drying, the difference per cube is very decent - almost twice. But by folding the wood on the site in ventilated stacks, it can be dried up to the same 20-22% in a year. Whether or not to impregnate with bioprotection before drying, you decide for yourself. Dry wood does not rot and is not damaged by fungi, but it is desirable to impregnate it with bioprotection from insects.

An example of such an opinion is in the video. With an explanation of why the technology is bad...