Installation of natural tiles. Installation of Metrotile tiles

Installation of ceramic tiles is a complex process for a person without experience, requiring reinforcement roof structure roofs. A ceramic tile weighs ten times more than a metal tile, since its base is clay. Any installation errors roofing material may entail serious problems, so entrust all the work better for professionals. But if you are confident in yourself and your abilities, then first read the installation instructions for ceramic tiles, given in this article.

Installation rules

Remember the basic rules for installing ceramic tiles, which will make your work easier:

Installation is carried out from right - to the left, from below - up
Before laying the slabs, they are lifted 5-6 pieces per roof and evenly distributed over it
Compared with metal roofing for a roof made of ceramic tiles, it is necessary to strengthen the truss structure by 15-20 percent
The optimal slope of the roof for the installation of ceramic tiles is 50 degrees. Minimum slope- 11 degrees
Lathing and counter-latticing step - 30 centimeters
It is better to deliver tiles to the construction site immediately before the start of work.
Transportation of ceramic tiles is carried out by trucks on pallets. The weight of one element is from 2 to 4 kilograms

Shingles calculation

Use the table to determine the number of tile tiles. Useful width and length - the dimensions of the tile. Measure the area of the roof and make the appropriate calculations.

Should you use ceramic tiles?

Many people have a question: “Is it necessary to cover the roof with ceramic tiles at all?”. After all, it is difficult to install, and this process is laborious, because it is necessary to lay one element at a time. It is much easier and faster to cover the roof with ondulin or metal tiles. Let's try to answer this question.

Here are some of the benefits of ceramic tiles that make some homeowners use them as roofing material:

Ecological purity. Ceramic tiles are made from clay according to all requirements. Thanks to firing at a temperature of 1000 degrees, the material acquires a brown-red tint.
Duration of operation. Ceramic tiles can last up to 100 years! And there will be no corrosion. This material is durable and reliable, non-flammable and noise-absorbing.
Uniqueness. A roof covered with ceramic tiles is fundamentally different from others. But again, this is a matter of taste.
High resistance to ultraviolet radiation, precipitation
Easy to replace damaged roof sections

Flaws:

Big weight
High price
Difficulty of installation
Brittleness under high mechanical stress

To use ceramic tiles or not - the choice is yours. Compare all the advantages and disadvantages, compare them with other roofing materials and make the right choice!

Video about the installation of ceramic tiles

If you have ever considered a solid clay tile roof, you probably wondered: what are all the shards on? Do they take off for a while? How many people do you need to install natural tiles at such a height, and can one or two really do it? And does skill and experience play a big role in such a process?

Such questions always arise among those who decide on this beautiful and age-old roofing. Indeed, with fragile modern counterparts, everything is more or less clear: cut, stick, fix with a screw - and you're done. And what to do with elements as heavy in weight as those of ceramic tiles, what to fasten them for and how to ensure the safety of people below?

Yes, of course, from century to century, roofing masters passed on and improved their experience, but they also baked shards individually and by hand. And modern manufacturers not only set up large-scale production, but also completely changed the approach to installing tiles, for which they showed ingenuity and added special accessories.

Where to start then? We will now try to illustrate the whole process in as much detail as possible.

Let's start with the most important thing - design. In addition to the stingray tiles themselves, you will need waterproofing substrates, an eaves overhang and a ridge with a valley:

Think in advance which of these elements you will need, how many tiles will go to the slopes (calculate by area, and 9-15 shards are usually consumed per 1 square meter).

And also decide right at this stage whether you will use the attic space as a living space in the future, because the very device of the roofing pie depends on this:

Stage II. Assembling the truss system

Competent and high-quality installation is one of the essential conditions durability of a tiled roof. Let's look at its main stages. Let's start with preparatory work.

Before laying the tiles, be sure to check the geometry of the roof structure, measure the diagonals and compare their lengths. All irregularities must be leveled, because tile locks have an extremely small range of motion.

Those. you won’t be able to fix flaws with the help of the roofing itself, unlike soft roof, which is able to go around any radius.

Therefore, arm yourself with a two-meter rail or cord, and check all planes. The deviation should not be more than 5 mm along a length of 2 m. Now, for convenience, lay out the tiles in piles of five or six pieces on opposite slopes to create a uniform load on the rafters.

If you have decided on roofing cake, proceed to the device truss system. The optimal pitch of the rafters is up to 75 cm, because natural tiles have a significant weight.

The crate is the base on which the tiles rest, so it is important to correctly calculate the pitch of the crate so that you get an integer number of tiles on the roof. Therefore, using a level, make sure that the beam is located strictly on horizontal surface. Use coniferous beams, without passing knots and wane. For rafters that are installed in increments:

no more than 75 cm, take bars with a section of 30 by 50 mm;
exceed 90 cm, bars need 40 by 50 mm;
if the pitch of the rafters reaches 110 cm, then the bars should be 40 by 60 mm or 50 by 50 in size.

To do correct markup rows, a marking cord is used. It is pulled according to the marks made.

Especially carefully consider the location of the counter-lattice where the roof window will be located:

Now proceed with the installation of a cornice strip or drip, the task of which is to drain condensate and prevent wooden structures from getting wet.

Installing drips is generally the simplest of all installations:

Stage III. Arrangement of waterproofing and battens

Once the base is ready, proceed to the waterproofing device:

Step 1. On both sides of the valley to rafter legs nail the bars.
Step 2. Lay out the waterproofing membrane on top of the counter-lattice, always with the inscription and the front surface up.
Step 3. Cut it along the edge of the cornice overhang with a margin of at least 15 cm. Lay it, starting from the lower right corner, and fix it with a stapler, aligning it with the dropper. Double-sided tape will help you with this.

Here's what it all looks like in practice:

Now fill the counter-lattice directly to the rafters, over the membrane, with nails in increments of about 30 cm. Cover the ventilation gap under the eaves with light with a perforated ventilation tape.

To find out the optimal position of the lower support battens, you need to try on the tiles from the bottom row and the gutter bracket. The beam of the supporting crate should be fixed at a distance of 32 to 39 cm from the bottom edge:

At this stage, it is very important to properly waterproof the gable overhangs:

By the way, in order to make the gable overhangs beautiful, special side tiles are attached to them.

You can also resort to traditional way, arranging the pediment with carved boards, which are also called prichelins. They just need to be treated with an antiseptic and protected with a metal apron.

Stage IV. Gutter installation

Now install the gutter onto the pre-mounted mount. Fasten the drain pipe clamp to the wall of the building and assemble the elbows with the connecting elements.

Close the ends of the gutter on the gables with a universal end cap so that the gutter does not interfere with the installation of the lower gable tiles.

And connect the straight elements of the gutter with a docking element and close with inner side with the help of clamps that are attached to an additional crate:

Stage V. Working with the valley

Lay the valleys, starting from the cornice overhang, from the bottom up. After laying, it can be trimmed by 3-4 cm to prevent the groove in the upper part from slipping.

If you need to pick Exact size valleys, then follow this simple principle:

if the length of the valley is no more than 4 meters, the width of each half should be 20 cm, and when unfolded, about 55 cm.
if the valley is long enough, more than 4 meters, then in the expanded state the steel sheet must be at least 66 cm wide.

Fix the valley to the crate with two screws. Cut the paws on both sides for a tight fit, secure with self-tapping screws, and glue their joint with sealing tape.

Install a self-adhesive, water-repellent foam strip on each edge of the valley groove.

On both sides of the valley, along the entire cornice overhang, an overhang air element is attached, which should not go into the valley more than 10 cm from the edge of the groove, otherwise it will trap debris, fallen leaves and snow falling there.

Make sure that the visible part of the valley is at least 13 and 15 cm. The fact is that if the groove is completely covered with tiles, then rainwater will accumulate in it.

Stage VI. Laying roof tiles

So, now that everything is ready, try on the gable tile on the gable overhang, which should lie with a gap of 1 cm from the frontal board.

On the crate, mark the left edge of the gable tiles, and to the left of it, mark the position of future columns after 90 cm, at the rate of 30 cm per column.

With the help of laces, apply this markup to the crate. Now freely lay out the lower first row of tiles, while carefully checking the position of each third tile according to the marks made earlier.

Support spike that will rest in frontal board, you need to knock down with a hammer, as in this photo master class:

Now fasten each tile of the lower row with a self-tapping screw through the holes drilled in the ridge, and lay out the first column of the gable tile along the previously marked vertical line. At the same time, fasten each tile in the upper part with two screws.

After that, lay out the tiles on the slope, from bottom to top along the vertical markings applied to the crate:

To move on a tile roof, you only need a safety harness - you can step on everywhere. Start laying and marking tiles on hip and hip roofs from the middle of the slope. To do this, you need to find the middle of the triangle: just lay out a vertical row of tiles from the very top, right in the center, and now lay the bottom row.

After that, mark the vertical rows where you can, and lay the tiles in this way from the bottom up, in rows, starting from the middle of the slope towards the ridges.

Stage VII. Fixing tiles with different methods

Now let's talk about fixing tiles. Up to 60 degrees, most of the tiles do not need to be fastened at all; only the bottom row on the overhang, the upper ridge rows and the side gable ones are necessarily fixed.

They also fix all the trimmed tiles, which are usually located on the valley, ridges and adjoin the walls to the skylights and hatches. In regions with strong winds shards are additionally fixed with wire.

But slot tiles, which are also called castle tiles, are produced separately. She has the most big square and profiled form, and such a tile differs from others by the presence of locks.

The locks are two edges, top and side, which are superimposed on the adjacent ones, snap into place and ensure reliable tightness of the coating. In addition, such tiles have protrusions at the bottom, which, during installation, cling to the beams of the crate.

The most popular models of such tiles are double S-shaped, Dutch and S-shaped Marseilles. Most of them have sliding locks, so that the periods of the tiles can be made as wide or narrow as possible. Thanks to the presence of such sliding locks, tiles are ideally suited to existing step bars, and it does not need to be cut:

In addition, basically all tiles today are produced with two holes made for screws. They are not through, it is worth noting.

Therefore, if you decide to fix the tiles, then these holes must be drilled with a 6 mm drill and fixed in the upper part to the batten with two anti-corrosion screws 4.5 by 50 mm, and at the bottom with anti-wind clamps.

Also, if the slope has a length of more than 4.5 m, it still needs to be additionally installed ventilation tiles. This is placed in the third row, with a step of 1 meter. If the slope is more than 7 m, then the ventilation tiles are laid in two rows:

Also, ventilation tiles are needed where there are chimneys or skylights, because they create obstacles to the circulation of air under cover.

Stage VIII. Window bypass and junction waterproofing

There, natural shingles bypass skylights, you will most likely need half shingles (unless you timed everything perfectly). Lay it next to the rest and try to close the joints as much as possible.

We have prepared for you a detailed master class for waterproofing natural tiles adjoining windows and chimneys so that you can deal with all the intricacies of such work:

Here is another example of how to “fit” a window into a tiled roof:

Stage IX. Trimming tiles for a joint in a valley

To correctly lay the shingles in the valley, use the string on the groove to mark the suspension line so that the overlap of the shingles on the groove is 8-10 cm. Then cut the shingles at an angle along the marked line. Just don't use small triangular pieces of shingles that are difficult to fix.

To move the column and ensure a quality fastening, you will need a half tile. Approximate consumption - 1 piece for 2 rows:

For convenience, first number the cut tiles and remove them from the crate. For cutting tiles, we advise you to take an angle cut-off saw with a power of 2 kW and diamond disc with a diameter of 22.23 cm, which is specially designed for dry cutting heavy concrete. Protect your eyes with goggles or your face with a respirator.

By the way, the accuracy will be achieved on a water-cooled machine. Rinse the cut tiles with water from dust and let it dry. Since you will not close the edges with anything, cover them with a cold engobe to match the color of the roof - this is sold immediately with tiles.

To properly fix the cut tiles on the ridges, take special stainless steel clamps. Such clamps are produced in two types:

anti-wind, which attract the tiles to the crate;
universal, which support the tile in weight.

Wire fasteners are screwed to a nail, which is hammered into the nearest lath. And sometimes the wire is used so thick that it itself is hammered directly into the crate instead of a nail.

Stage X. Installation of ridge tiles

To install a natural tile roof ridge, follow our detailed master classes. Here's how the installation of the ridge on the roof of ceramic tiles:

If under such a roof you will be residential attic, then use the air element, which has the largest cross section for ventilation - this is Figarol. If in the under-roof space there will be only cold attic, then ventilation will be provided by any other air element.

To install ridge shingles, bend the timber holders so that when installing the timber, the distance from the top edge of the timber to the top edge of the rafter leg coincides with what you measured in advance.

Trim the tiles so that the gap remains 2-3 cm. Fix the trimmed tiles to the batten with corrosion-resistant screws 4.5 and 50 mm, or directly to the spine ridge with copper wire. Special stainless steel clamps are also suitable.

You will need to put one holder each at the end and at the beginning. After that, tighten the lace and install the intermediate fastening directly on it.

Stage XI. Fixation of spinal tiles

The device of the ridges hip roof start with the installation of the spinal bars. To calculate their height, you need to lay two ridge tiles on top of the privates. Start measuring from the narrow end. The ridge bar should be below the ridge tiles so that it rests on the waves nearby. Leave at least 1 cm between the spinal bar and the inner surface of the ridge tile.

Now be careful! metal mounts the spine beam must be bent and installed at the beginning and at the end of the ridge. Mark the intermediate brackets along the cord in increments of no more than 60 cm.

Install the spine beam directly into the mount and secure with nails or self-tapping screws. To ensure ventilation of the roof, cut the tiles on the ridges diagonally with a gap of 1-3 cm from the ridge beam and fix them with clamps, which are fixed with screws on the opposite side:

On a triangular slope, mark the middle of the slope on the lowest and highest crates, and from this mark to the right and left towards the ridges, lay out the bottom row. All the following rows are also laid out, starting from the center.

For ventilation of the under-roof space, you can use roll material"Figarol". Roll it out along the axial tape for the spinal beam and secure it with a conventional construction stapler, in 30 cm increments.

Remove the protective tapes from the rubber strips, press the material on the sides with a roller (just do not press the central part). In the upper part of the hip "Figarol" is laid with an overlap on another slope.

Start the installation of the initial core shingles with a small release, and secure with two screws with plastic washers through drilled holes at the top and middle of the tile.

All upper spine tiles must be cut at the top of the hip along the junction line. Just lay the hip tiles on top, and its outline should be marked on the ridge tiles in order to cut them 6 cm above this line. And finally, the final work. Lay the ridge tiles on the ridge in the same way as on the hip, the only thing is that the tiles that go to the valley must be cut from both sides.

To beautifully decorate the ridge of the roof, use the initial ridge tiles. It should be installed with a small allowance, and fixed with galvanized screws 5x70 or 5x100 mm.

Stage XI. Additional roofing elements

pay attention to proper organization cornice overhang, which must fit all technical requirements: to collect water and give air access to the under-roof space for good ventilation roofs. And also not be devoid of aesthetic appeal.

Additionally, a ventilation tape and an eaves air element are laid here:

On the finishing stage the ends of the slopes are covered with a protective strip made of steel sheet. Further along the length of the rafters on the edge of the cornice overhang, an air element is fixed from birds, if the rafters are less than 8 meters, and a rigid profile with perforation, the length of the rafters exceeds 8 meters. At the same time, it supports the bottom row of tiles.

As you have already seen, old and modern technologies perfectly combined with each other, and allow you to build houses without losing the spirit of their history, while taking only the best from centuries of experience.

Among the variety of roofing materials, ceramic tiles are especially popular. And although such a coating is quite expensive, its operational properties fully justify the financial costs of acquiring the material. About what a roofing is, and how to properly install ceramic tiles, we understand in the article below.

Ceramic roofing originates many hundreds of years before our existence. After all, it is based exclusively on clay, which in ancient times was almost the main building material. Today, tiles are also made from clay by pressing it and firing it at high temperatures. And to enhance finished products and giving it an attractive appearance, the glazing technique is used. That is, the surface of the tile is covered with a special glaze, which forms a protective glossy layer of the material and enhances its wear-resistant characteristics. Tiles are produced individually and sold on pallets.

Advantages of roofing material

A ceramic tile roof is not only attractive and rich appearance Houses. In addition to aesthetics, such roofing material has a number of other advantages. These are:

Coating durability. In general, properly laid shingles can last up to 100 years or more;
Coating resistance to weather factors. Tiles are not afraid of rain, snow, wind, frost or sunlight;
Absolute environmental friendliness of the material. Such coatings are made from exclusively natural components;
Possibility of roofing from ceramic tiles on roofs of complex configuration. This is due to the small size of the coating fragments;
Good maintainability. In case of wear of a section of the roof, it can be easily replaced using right amount fragments;
High level of sound absorption. The tiled roof and the inhabitants under it are not afraid of the sound of rain on a stormy night.

Coating Disadvantages

Tiles, like any other roofing material, have their drawbacks. These are:

Large product weight. In the final mass, the entire roof will weigh about several tons. Therefore, a reinforced truss system is required under a tile roof.
Relative brittleness of the coating. So, with very strong point mechanical shocks, the tile can break. But this is extremely rare.
Some painstaking when laying. So, small elements require a careful and balanced approach during installation and tiled roofing, which increases the complexity of the process.

Important: The high cost of roofing material can also be attributed to its disadvantage. However, this is at the discretion of the buyer.

Tip: Tiled roofing is best for houses built on reinforced foundations and built of stone or brick. It is worth remembering that tiles laid on wooden or foam block walls of the house will cause significant deformation and shrinkage.

Settlement work

In order for the installation of a ceramic tile roof to proceed correctly and without interruption, you must first calculate the amount of material required. To do this, measure the length and width of each roof slope.

Then you should find out the useful area of \u200b\u200bthe tile. As a rule, it is specified by the manufacturer. But it should be borne in mind that it can vary depending on the length of the overlap during installation. And that, in turn, changes depending on the angle of the slope of the slope. In particular, the picture looks like this:

For a slope with a slope angle of 25 degrees, the overlap is 100 mm;
For a slope with an angle of 35 degrees - an overlap of 75 mm;
For a slope with a slope angle of 45 degrees or more - 45 mm.

Thus, from the length of one tile, you need to subtract the overlap you need in your case and then multiply the resulting value by the width of the tile. We get the useful area of one element.

It remains to convert the area of \u200b\u200bthe slope and the area of \u200b\u200bthe element in mm and divide the first value by the second. We get the number of tiles needed for one particular roof slope.

Important: the number of tiles required is calculated for each slope separately. Especially if there are turrets, triangular slopes, etc.

Tip: if the roof has a slope angle of less than 22 degrees, then it is advisable to protect it with a diffuse membrane. The required amount of material is calculated by multiplying the total area of \u200b\u200bthe roof slopes by 1.4. The resulting value is rounded up.

Installation of a tiled roof

Training

It should be understood that laying ceramic tiles requires thoroughness and deliberation. The slightest mistake in the work and at least everything will have to be redone again. Worst case, the roof will leak.

Perform first preparatory work in the form of a roof sheathing and waterproofing device. The sequence of actions looks like this:

A dropper is attached to the rafter legs at their very bottom (20 cm from the edge), which will protect the tree from getting wet. It is fixed on self-tapping screws along the entire length with overlaps at the joints. The apron is tucked under the rafter legs.
Now, in the valleys, two longitudinal beams are attached on both sides of it. The ends are cut flush with overhang. The distance between the beams is approximately 10 cm.
A diffusion membrane is laid over the beams of the valley with the inscription up. It will save the corners of the roofs from leaking. The membrane is cut along the eaves with a margin of 15 cm per collar.
Now lay the membrane on each slope before laying the tiles. The roll is rolled out over the rafters and gradually fixed with a stapler. On triangular slopes, the membrane is attached with overlaps of 5 cm to the opposite slope.
The membrane is attached to the dropper with double-sided tape and pressed tightly.

Lathing device

Now, in order for the ceramic tile installation of which we started to be firmly fixed on the roof, you need to correctly arrange the crate. Start with the bottom support bar. Actions are performed in this order:

A support bar for the lower row of tiles is stuffed along the dropper. And the rest ventilation gap under the cornice they cover with a perforated mesh. This will protect the roof space from the settlement of birds in it.
Now is the time to attach the second support bar at this distance from the drip (reference lower beam) so that part of the tile hangs over the drain channel by 1/3 of its width. To do this, you will have to attach the tile and try on its length. We mark the place of attachment of the beam and fix it.

Important: using the level you need to monitor the evenness of the beam.

Then the upper beam of the batten is nailed at a distance of 3 cm from the intersection of the beam of the counter-batten in the area of the ridge.
The crate is a support for the top and bottom of each row of tiles. Therefore, it is important to correctly calculate its step. To do this, you need to measure the distance from the extreme upper and lower support beam of the crate. Divide the value by the useful height of one tile. We get the number of support beams. We place them at a distance equal to the length of one tile. We apply all the marks with a control cord, so that later it would be easier to correctly fix the beams.
Now the stuffed timber must be cut along the edge from top to bottom in one line so that it protrudes no more than 30 cm from the extreme rafter leg.
Under the battens of the battens, a counter batten beam is also mounted along the edge. Then the edge of the left membrane is wrapped on it and fixed with a stapler.
And it remains on the beam, covered with a membrane, to fill the frontal board. The rest of the membrane is cut off.

Gutter fasteners are installed along the eaves in increments of 70 cm. The slope of the gutter must be at least 3 mm for each meter of its length along the slope. Therefore, it is necessary to number the curved fasteners before fixing and then arrange them in the correct order.

Important: the gutter edge closest to the wall should be 1 cm higher than the far one. To do this, all fasteners must be correctly bent at a given angle using the bend bracket.

All fasteners are fixed with self-tapping screws and screws. Then a pre-assembled chute is installed on them. The ends of the gutter are covered with a cap tip. Drainage pipes are brought to the gutter in accordance with their instructions.

Now you need to attach a plastic apron to the bottom edge of the overhang, which will go to the edge of the gutter and prevent water from entering the wall of the house.

Waterproofing device in the valley

In this place, it is necessary to install a rapid crate due to the heavy snow load in these places. The technology of laying tiles involves the installation of a valley gutter from the bottom up. It is fixed at the top with two screws. The next section of the gutter is laid with an overlap on the lower fragment and is also fixed with self-tapping screws. The groove is fixed on both sides special staples in increments of 20-30 cm. the joints are glued with a sealing tape and rolled with an eagle.

Tiling

The first tile must be laid on the lower edge beam of the overhang so that it docks with its edge protrusion with the frontal board. In this case, the supporting spike of the tile is knocked down with a hammer.
Now we lay out a row of tiles and fix each of them with a self-tapping screw through a drilled hole.
Then we lay the column of roofing material, moving from the bottom up. Each tile is fastened at the top with a self-tapping screw. You can also fix the tiles on special clamps, but this takes longer.

Important: all tiles are laid from right to left and from bottom to top according to the markings.

To lay the tile in the valley, it is necessary to apply a basting on it with a cord so that the overlap of future elements on it is at least 8 cm. The tile must be cut with a grinder at an angle.

Important: small triangles of tiles in valleys, which are difficult to fix, should be avoided. To prevent this from happening, in the rows of the roof, you can use half of it with a shift away from the valley. That is, in the valley there should be a large piece of tile, cut at an angle.

The visible part of the valley, not covered with tiles, should be no more than 13-15 cm.

Tip: to lay a ceramic roof on a triangular roof slope, you need to outline the middle from its top to the base. Then the laying of tiles is carried out, moving away from the center of the base of the triangle. Extreme tiles are cut at an angle when laying.

Now we install the ridge beam and cover it with a membrane. The ends of the beam are closed decorative elements. The ridge beam is covered with ridge tiles fixed on special clamps. By the same principle, the corners of the roof slopes are also covered.

Tip: since the tile on a pallet weighs about a ton, you should correctly distribute the load on the truss system when lifting the roofing material up. And for this, the raised coating is laid out in stacks of several pieces around the entire perimeter of the ramp.

Makes your home stylish, sophisticated & charming. In addition, such a roof, without losing its beauty and shade. But this will only happen if the installation is correct.

It is worth remembering that this material is suitable for roofs with a slope of more than eleven degrees (optimally - fifty degrees). And today we will consider the technology of installation of ceramic tiles, offer installation instructions and the price of work and materials per m2.

Clay ceramics is a material characterized by a solid weight. Therefore, in addition to arranging a solid truss system, you need to think about how the tiles will be delivered to the roof. That is, provide suitable lifting equipment.

Tiles are transported using special pallets (each weighs about nine hundred and fifty kilograms).

For fastening individual elements roofing to the crate, galvanized (or stainless steel) screws are used, as well as nails and wire. Shingles usually have small keyhole holes. Fastening takes place through these holes. If you need to make additional holes, then use a special roofing tool - a hole punch designed for ceramic tiles.

And special steel cutters allow you to evenly cut pieces of ceramic roofing. In addition, roofing pliers with lips of various lengths are available for working with this material. They are made from durable induction hardened steel. The rest of the tools are standard: screwdriver, hammer, screwdriver (for crates). In the absence of a cutter, it is possible to use a grinder.

This video will tell about the device of the valley of a ceramic tiled roof:

Material calculation

Whatever material the roof is made of, the entire structure must be able to withstand loading forces of up to two hundred kilograms per square meter. To make the calculations correctly, we add to this value the weight of ceramics (about fifty kilograms per square meter).

We take into account that during installation it is necessary to provide for an overlap, depending on the slope of the roof. Its value is ten centimeters if the slope is less than twenty-five degrees.

If the slope is increased (in the range of twenty-five to thirty degrees), then an overlap of seven and a half centimeters is enough.
And with a slope of over forty-five degrees, this value decreases to four and a half centimeters.

You can calculate the length of the material (useful) if you subtract from overall length of the ceramic part, the length of the piece that is necessary to create an overlap. Well, the useful width is usually indicated in the instructions. Based on the numbers obtained, calculate how many tiles will be needed per square meter.

The number of individual roofing elements required to cover the entire length of the slope can be calculated from their usable length. Dividing these two values one by the other, we get the number of rows. We multiply this number by the number of parts in a row and get the total number of tiles for the ramp. To determine how much waterproofing is needed, multiply by 1.4 the total area of \u200b\u200bthe slopes.

Another tip: you can use for accurate calculations of all materials online calculator. There are quite a few of them on the web.

We will talk about the technology of roofing from ceramic tiles below.

Ceramic tile installation technologies

First steps

Let's start with the crate. For her, you will need bars of five by five centimeters (or six by four centimeters). Along the sections of the cornices we put wooden details two centimeters wider than where ordinary elements are located. The number of horizontal bars in such a crate will be equal to the number of rows of tiles with the addition of one more row - a cornice.

For marking, templates are used, cut to size (height) of tile tiles, as well as coated cord. Horizontal slats are joined on the rafters. The step of the crate (optimal) is usually from thirty-one to thirty-four centimeters.

Under the ridge it is necessary to install an air element for ventilation. A waterproof tape is placed along the entire length of the ridge. Do not forget about waterproofing and vapor barrier. There must be space between the crate and the tile layer.

Before laying the tiles, they are distributed in piles (about five each) over the entire surface of the roof. Then a row is laid on top - along the ridge of the roof. After that, we proceed to fixing the bottom row (along the overhang). We fix the elements only after we check whether they are laid correctly.

Installation instructions for ceramic tiles are presented in the video below:

Direct laying

We carry out installation, starting from the bottom of the roof, moving up. Also from right to left. At the end, ridge and gable elements are attached. Moreover, the ridge elements should touch the edged ridge board only where they are attached. Where the roof ridge and gable intersect, you will have to make adjustments by trimming the tiles.

The tile itself can be of several types, each of which has its own fastening nuances.

So, if this is a slotted tile of a tape type, then it is laid with rows approaching each other, connecting using the existing grooves.
In the same way, the grooved stamped tiles are laid (only for it you will need more wire).
But the flat tile of the tape type is devoid of grooves. It is also overlapped from the bottom up, while in each odd row at the edge there is a half of a tile (the principle of brick laying). The protrusions outside and inside, as well as roofing nails, help to carry out the fastening.

A few mounting tips:

Ventilation holes must be made under the eaves.
When waterproofing is laid, a slight deflection is left between the rafters. The waterproofing layer is laid with an overlap of fifteen centimeters, fixing it with carnations at a distance of twenty-five centimeters.
Under the valleys put waterproofing a little more than a meter wide. The overlap on the valleys of tile tiles is approximately twenty centimeters.
The thickness of the ridge board (equipped with obligatory aerators) must be at least four centimeters.
By sticking a self-adhesive tape (double-sided) on the valley, you can improve the waterproofing.
If the valley is longer than six meters, it is necessary to lay out a ventilation tile row.

The cost of installing ceramic tiles is described below.

Cost of work

Having ordered laying of a tiled natural roof to professionals, you will have to spend money. It costs about seven hundred rubles per square meter.

This is if all the nodes of the roofing system are standard. But if available complex shape roof will need additional costs.

The specialist in the video below will tell you how the ridge and junctions are installed when laying ceramic tiles:

For locks with back side shingles have ledges. There are 4 mm holes in the top part. Through these holes, ceramic tiles are attached to the crate using self-tapping screws. For fixing, you need to use self-tapping screws that do not rust, so that later there are no smudges.

The fastening of the tile sheet is not made too tight. With this step, you can not be afraid of reducing the size of the tiles due to changing weather conditions. In order to trim, you need to use a grinder or a hacksaw for cutting metal.

Installation of tiles near the ridge

In order to fix the tiles to the ridge, you need to use a sixty-five millimeter self-tapping screw. It is necessary that there are gaps between the tip of the screw, the board and the ridge. This is done so that when the tile expands due to weather conditions, the self-tapping screw does not burst. The tile that lies on the ridge should cover the edge of the last row.

2 videos are attached to the article, on which you can more clearly study all the moments of laying tiles. We also advise you to familiarize yourself with the process of laying tiles on the website of the manufacturer of tiles (in this case, Braas).

drainage system

To use all the characteristics of the tile, the installation of a water supply system (unorganized) is provided. Such a water supply is installed on low buildings that have only one slope on the roof. You can also use organized water supply. This plumbing is made of galvanized steel. Such steel is coated with PVC polymer. Organized plumbing can be purchased at the store.

The tile is ceramic made by masters from Germany. Tiling is the oldest construction material known to mankind and used today. There are four stages in the process of making clay tiles:

A blank made of clay is poured into molds;
Passes drying in special places;
Covered with a special coating of minerals and clay;
Such a ceramic product is fired in a kiln at a temperature of about one thousand degrees.

In Russia, tiles made by German companies are most used, as they are of higher quality, but tiles from Austria are also sold. This best material roofing has its advantages:

Reliability (will protect against unforeseen circumstances);
Durability (will last a fairly long time);
Has an aesthetic appearance (looks great);
It is refractory (can withstand fire at high temperatures);
Withstands temperature and climate changes (not afraid of frost and heat);
UV resistant;
Doesn't skip sound.