How to build from cinder block. How to lay cinder blocks yourself - step by step instructions

Before you start building walls, you need to make a foundation for them. In this case, this is a strip foundation, which was previously leveled with brickwork.

1. The first step is to clear the foundation of debris.

2. To level the unevenness on the foundation, it is necessary to prepare a thin mortar. Make a solution from a mixture of sand and cement grade M 400.

3. Then uneven places should be leveled.

4. Before starting work on the construction of walls, it is necessary to install waterproofing. To do this, take the roofing material and cut it to the desired size.

5. It is convenient to cut roofing felt by one person using a nylon thread and a brick.

6. To do this, lay the roofing material on a flat surface, and on top of the nylon thread tied to the brick.

7. The next step is to bend the roofing material to the desired size, in our case in half.

9. We step on the roofing material with our foot, and we try to pull the thread through the folded edge of the roofing material, thereby cutting it.

10. After the required amount of waterproofing has been cut, we lay it on the foundation.

11. In order for the waterproofing not to be blown away by the wind, it is pressed down with cinder blocks.

12. We start laying the walls from the corners.

13. After the corners are set and the diagonals are checked, we begin laying the wall.

15. To fasten the blocks together, it is necessary to apply the solution to the end of the block.

16. We install the block in its place, while pressing it against the neighboring block.

17. In order for the walls to be even, we lay the masonry under the mooring cord, which is attached to the bracket made from the wire of electrode No. 3 by bending it in half.

18. We stretch the mooring cord for the entire length of the wall, fixing the staples with bricks on the corner blocks.

19. In this case, the thread of the mooring cord must be strongly stretched. We produce tension to such an extent that the bracket is at the limit of pulling out from under the brick.

20. The consistency of the mortar for laying blocks should not be liquid. To save the solution, we lay the bed only along the area of ​​\u200b\u200bcontact of the block with the work surface.

21. When laying the block, the mortar will fill only the necessary parts of contact.

Reliable and beautiful cinder block masonry consists of about 10% theory and 90% practice, but despite this ratio, without 10% theory it is difficult to master practical skills and start applying them at a construction site.

On the image: illustration of the three basic rules for laying blocks (bricks), 1 - the direction of the load force on the wall, 2 - the direction of the destructive forces when laying wedge-shaped stones, 3 - the distribution of the load over the wall surface.

1. Cinder block and any other stone, both natural and artificial, tolerate compression well and do not break or bend well. Hence the first rule of reliable masonry arises - the overlying stone must rest on the underlying masonry with its entire surface. To achieve this, when laying cinder blocks, apply the solution to the entire surface of the underlying block, and not just along the edges.

2. The side faces of the stones should be located only at right angles to the horizon. If you do not follow this rule, then the stones begin to act as wedges, which, under load, push the masonry apart, destroying it.

3. Each next row of blocks should be shifted relative to the bottom one by a quarter or half of the block, that is, the vertical seams of adjacent rows should not be allowed to coincide. If the seams do not match (correct masonry), then the vertical load is distributed throughout the wall, and if the seams match (wrong masonry), then the load is distributed along the post, dramatically increasing the likelihood of failure of part of the wall.

And a few tips: when working in hot or windy weather, it is desirable to moisten the blocks, this increases the adhesion between the mortar and the cinder block; if a break is expected during the laying process, then the solution should not be spread on the top row; every 3 - 4 rows it is necessary to check the horizontality and verticality of the rows.

On the image: cinder block elements: 1 - upper bed, 2 - large side face - spoon, 3 - small side face - poke.

To make it easier to understand which cinder block masonry can be used in the construction of a wall, you need to remember that the block has 6 faces: 2 opposite ones on which the block is laid - the upper and lower beds; large side faces - spoons; small side faces - pokes. Masonry is carried out in horizontal rows and cinder blocks are laid on the bed.

The height of each horizontal row is formed from the height of the stone and the thickness of the horizontal mortar joint, which is usually 10 - 12 mm.

On the image: 1 - laying in half a cinder block, 2 - laying in a cinder block, 3 - one and a half cinder blocks.

The width of the masonry, which is ultimately the thickness of the wall, must be a multiple of 1/2 of the cinder block.

Factors affecting the reliability of a cinder block wall or any other stone

The strength of the masonry is determined by the quality of the cinder block and the properties of the solution. The maximum strength of masonry from blocks is 40 - 50% of the tensile strength of the blocks themselves. This situation is explained as follows: during laying, the mortar lays on the blocks in an uneven layer, microscopic kinks and voids appear, this leads to the formation of different pressure on the cinder block in different parts of the wall, bending stress occurs in the block, and just such a load cinder block does not hold up well.

On the image: stages of destruction of masonry, 1 - the appearance of cracks, 2 - the formation of individual columns, 3 - complete destruction of the wall.

If the wall experiences excessive load, then it is primarily covered with vertical cracks, which are most often located along vertical seams. Over time, the cracks expand and the monolithic wall turns into a set of columns that can move out of the plane of the wall and, as a result, the masonry collapses.

The reliability of the masonry largely depends on the quality of the solution, such an indicator as the plasticity of the solution is especially important. The plastic solution evenly lays down on the stone, as a result, the bending stress decreases and the reliability of the wall increases.

When mixing the solution, strictly observe the proportions, taking into account the quality of sand and cement, do not prepare for future use.

The strength of the masonry also depends on the thickness of the seam, the thicker the mortar layer, the harder it is to evenly place it on the cinder block and the likelihood of fracture stress increases. For this reason, each type of masonry is made with a certain thickness of the seam (for a cinder block, this is about 1 cm), and it will not work to increase this thickness without the risk of reducing the strength of the structure.

Cinder block masonry tools

On the image: tools necessary for laying a stone wall, 1 - trowel (trowel), 2 - mortar shovel, 3 - jointing for convex and concave joints, 4 - pickaxe, 5 - plumb, 6 - square, 7 - building level, 8 - tape measure , 9 - level, 10 - folding rule, 11 - duralumin rule, 12 - ordering.

1. A trowel is a steel shovel with a wooden handle, with which the mortar is leveled, the seams are filled, and the excess mortar is cut.

2. The mortar shovel is designed to mix the mortar, preventing it from delamination, to feed it onto the wall and spread it out.

3. Joints with which the seams can be given a convex, concave, triangular, rectangular recessed shape.

4. A pickaxe is used when cutting and hewing bricks or blocks.

5. A plumb line, with its help, the bricklayer controls the verticality of the wall, walls, corners, and so on. This tool, depending on whether the verticality of the masonry is checked within one or several floors, has a different weight. For the first case, it is 200 - 400 g, for the second 600 - 1000 g.

6. The square is for checking angles.

7. Building level, which is designed to control the horizontal and vertical plane. Can be 300, 500 and 700 mm long. Structurally, it is an aluminum case with two glass ampoules filled with non-freezing liquid, in which an air bubble remains. The principle of operation of the device is simple: put it on the surface of the wall and look at the position of the bubble. If it froze in the middle between the divisions of the ampoule, then the surface is horizontal, if it is shifted in any direction, then there is a deviation.

8. Tape measure and folding rule are designed to measure short distances.

9. Rules-level - this tool is made of planed wooden (section 30 × 80 mm, length 1.5 - 2 meters) or duralumin rail with a special profile. With its help, the front surface of the laid out wall is controlled.

10. Ordering - is a wooden lath (section 50 × 50 or 70 × 50, length 1.8 - 2 meters) with divisions every 77 mm, which is equal to the thickness of one row with a solution (65 mm + 12 mm). Ordering can also be made from a metal corner, on the edges of which divisions are cut with a depth of 3 mm and with a step of 77 mm.

The sequence of work in the construction of walls from cinder blocks

On the image: 1 - laying the outer spoon verst, 2 - the inner spoon verst, 3 - tying row.

One of the first questions that arises before the start of the construction of walls is how thick should they be made? The most correct answer to this question is to get in the project documentation, but many people build houses without projects, in which case you can rely on these numbers. During the construction of a 1-storey building and at an air temperature in winter of - 20 C, the wall thickness is 350 - 400 mm; temperature - 30 C thickness 450 - 500 mm; temperature - 40 C thickness 550 - 650 mm.

Cinder block laying is carried out by a master and an assistant. The latter stands in front and, moving along the course of laying, delivers blocks to the wall, laying them out in increments equal to the length of the block being laid and at a distance from the wall equal to two stone lengths. With this arrangement, it will be convenient for the master to spread the solution and lay the blocks on the wall. The duties of the assistant also include the supply of the solution.

Cinder block is a "fast" building material that speeds up the work of a bricklayer.

The master lays the solution with a shovel on the upper surface of the wall, the width of the strip is several centimeters narrower than the width of the block. The cinder block is laid on a fresh mortar and pressed close to the laid block, after which it is settled with both hands and, if necessary, with a hammer. The protruding solution is cut off with a trowel and vertical seams are filled. If the cinder block does not have a recess on the bonding surface, then a solution must be applied to this face before laying the block on the wall.

Additional articles with useful information

Whether or not to use cinder block as the main building material when building a house can be determined only after taking into account the positive and negative sides of this artificial stone.

Many developers can be helped out by frame walls, especially if their features are taken into account during construction and operation, since they can be built without special equipment and they are much cheaper.

Cinder block is an excellent material that is successfully used in construction, which has many advantages, thanks to which its popularity is becoming more and more every year. The main and most significant advantage is the fact that the laying of the cinder block can be carried out on its own, without the help of specialists.

Cinder blocks are the cheapest and most affordable building material, not inferior in strength to bricks, if the manufacturer followed all technological processes in the manufacture.

Where to begin

Before starting work, you need to have a clear idea of ​​what kind of material it is, what properties it has, how to put it correctly, what scheme is used for this, and much more, which will allow you to do everything at a high level of quality.

The production of cinder blocks takes place by means of vibrocompression and pouring concrete mixture into molds.

Blast furnace slag is a good raw material for the production of various insulating and building materials, including cement.

Another advantage of this building material is the ability to use a wide variety of improvised components for its production: cement, sand, gypsum, lime, blast-furnace slags. For work, the following tools and devices should be prepared:

• hand saw or circular saw;
• respirator for use during sawing cinder block;
• hydraulic level;
• building level;
• mallet or hammer;
• plumb;
• mallet or hammer;
• ordering.

If the foundation of the future house is already ready, then laying the cinder blocks begins with setting the corners, which should form a regular rectangle. To do this, 4 cinder blocks are laid on the tops of the corners, which are leveled with the help of a building level. Next, pull the fishing line or cord, along which the laying will be carried out. After that, a solution is applied to the foundation, and the first row of cinder blocks begins to be laid. While working, it is important to remember that every subsequent second and third rows of cinder block masonry are considered the most important. Therefore, experts recommend that, as often as possible, control the masonry with a plumb line and level, so that the wall being built turns out to be perfectly even. Otherwise, a situation may arise when the work needs to be redone. And this, in turn, additional material and physical costs.

Construction process

For laying cinder blocks, the following methods can be used:

• bonding method - masonry is carried out in one stone;
• in half a stone - for this, the cinder block is cut off either with a circular saw or a hacksaw;
• in two stones;
• one and a half stones.

Due to the characteristics of the cinder block, the solution must be applied 1.5 cm thick.

In the process of laying cinder blocks, the solution must be applied 1.5 cm thick. If the layer is thicker, then the thermal insulation properties of the future wall will be significantly reduced. This is due to the peculiarities of the cinder block, inside which there are voids that form an air cushion that retains heat. Voids in the process of work for the same reason should not be sealed with cement mortar. Laying the cinder block is necessary as follows. They take it by the middle with the left hand, bring it to the wall at an angle of 45 0 and, turning it parallel to it, press it tightly against the adjacent block, tap it with a trowel's pen or a hammer. With the help of a trowel, the excess solution is removed. As soon as the laying of cinder blocks is completed, the resulting wall must be covered with fine slag and compacted.

In order for the laying of cinder blocks to be carried out correctly, the following instructions from specialists must be taken into account:

1. Before starting work on building a house from cinder blocks, it is necessary to build a special platform and scaffolding, so that in the future it would be convenient to lay the upper rows of cinder blocks. It is not necessary to use a ladder for this purpose, since it will not be possible to place tools and materials.
2. In order to put different marks on the blocks, colored chalk is used.
3. To achieve a good viscosity of the solution, red clay or ash is added to it. For 4 buckets of solution, 1/3 of the bucket of components is taken.

Material characteristics

The scope of cinder blocks is quite wide, but the main one is their use for the construction of a cottage, country or country house. This is due to the fact that the speed of erecting a structure from cinder blocks increases several times, and their cost, at the same time, remains low. Quite often, garages are built from cinder blocks, extensions are made, fences and partitions are erected. In any case, it must be remembered that for whatever purpose cinder blocks are used, a prerequisite is high-quality waterproofing in order to exclude direct exposure to moisture. For each variant of work in construction there is a kind of instruction, it is impossible to consider everything.

Cinder blocks are one of the relevant building materials. They are popular because of the affordable price, ease of laying and good technical characteristics. You can build walls from it with your own hands without the help of professional craftsmen. But before that, you definitely need to study the masonry technology, learn about its pitfalls.

Features of the choice of cinder block and the construction of walls

The cinder block is made from cement, sand, water and fillers: blast-furnace slag, perlite, expanded clay chips, etc. The strength, frost resistance, and porosity of the material depend on the composition and quantity of the latter. Before buying, you need to clarify the availability of a quality certificate in order to exclude the presence of a dangerous concentration of toxic substances. It is risky to purchase products created in artisanal conditions, although they cost a little less than factory ones. But without professional equipment and knowledge of the correct production technology, it is impossible to create a product that meets the technical characteristics of GOST.

Algorithm for laying cinder blocks

In addition to the positive properties, the cinder block has some negative features. First of all, you need to remember about its high hygroscopicity (ability to absorb moisture) and protect it from moisture. In addition, the blocks will not be able to withstand a very heavy load with reinforced concrete floors, in which case a monolithic reinforced belt is required. But laying them with your own hands without outside help or hired workers is quite realistic.

After applying a leveling cement layer to the foundation, it must be well protected from water using a waterproofing material, for example, roofing material. Its ends are connected with an overlap of not less than 150 mm.

The construction of walls is done as follows:

1. The first step is laying the corners. The blocks in the first row are placed on a cement mortar with a plasticizing additive 10-15 mm thick. It is applied to the entire surface of the product. If it is vertical, then the upward movement of the trowel should be carried out without leaving the block. The level of the product is controlled using a level, and the position is controlled using a building level. The weight of the cinder block, depending on the size and structure (monolithic, hollow), ranges from 10 to 28 kg.
2. A cord is pulled between the corner blocks, and the construction of walls begins. If the distance between them exceeds 10 m in the center of the row, you need to place an additional block and fix the cord on it so that it does not sag.
3. After laying the first row, you need to wait 1-2 hours and only after that start working further. The next rows of outer corners are laid with obligatory dressing (depth not less than 10 cm). It is also used to connect load-bearing internal walls with external ones. It is not necessary to fill the cavity of the product with a solution during the laying of cinder block, this will only worsen the thermal insulation properties of the material.
4. After each 3-4 rows, reinforcement is necessarily carried out. To do this, use iron rods, mesh. All stages of masonry can be done by hand.
5. In places where there will be a partition, a flexible connection-anchor made of steel is inserted into the seam. One end is mounted in a load-bearing wall, and the other - in the seam of the partition. They need to be fixed on every second row of the load-bearing wall.

Many at the stage of choosing building materials for the house doubt which is better: foam blocks or cinder blocks? Each has its own advantages and disadvantages, they have different prices, different specifications. You need to focus on the type and purpose of the room, the requirements for it, the design of the walls.

The inner surface of the walls must be qualitatively waterproofed with vapor-tight plaster, insulated (with foil, polystyrene foam), and then install drywall, glue wallpaper, paint, etc. Facing bricks, plaster with subsequent painting, siding are suitable for exterior decoration. The air gap must be filled with insulation: polystyrene foam, polystyrene foam, mineral wool.

The strength of masonry with your own hands depends not only on compliance with its technology, but also on the technical characteristics of the cinder block, the quality of the solution. If you follow all the rules, a cinder block house will serve the owner for many years.

Cinder block laying: how to properly lay a cinder block (video)

Laying cinder blocks can be done with your own hands without the help of craftsmen. Compliance with technology, the right finish will create strong walls and keep the heat in the room

How to lay cinder blocks yourself - step by step instructions

Cinder block as a building material is gaining more and more popularity. This is due to several factors. First of all, cheapness, which can be further reduced by making blocks on your own. The second reason for popularity is that cinder block masonry can be done by hand.

Cinder block is an artificial stone based on pressed cemented cinder concrete. As a filler, slag, crushed granite, granite screenings, gravel, broken glass, sand, dried pieces of cement are used. Cinder block dimensions according to standards: 400x200x200 or 390x190x190. In the second case, 10 mm is left on the mortar joint.

The cinder block is of two types:

• corpulent is used for laying the foundation, basement, load-bearing structures;
• hollow acts as a building material with which walls and partitions can be laid out.

The properties of the block depend on the block type. The higher the hollowness, the lower the thermal conductivity, which means that the heat of the premises will be preserved. However, the strength of the material decreases as a result. The masonry scheme practically does not change.

What should be considered before starting work?

If masonry is done by hand, then the cost of construction can be significantly reduced. It is enough to pick up high-quality cinder blocks and learn how to properly carry out masonry.

1. Choice of laying method.

The laying pattern is influenced by the cinder block used, which depends on the type of material and the nature of the future building. You can put blocks in one, one and a half, two and half a stone (spoon method). It is worth considering the fact that the thicker the wall is laid out, the warmer the building will be.

2. Preparation of mortar for masonry.

The manufacturing technology is the same, but the proportions depend on the nature of the future building. Now in stores you can buy ready-made mixtures, in which it is enough to add a certain amount of water. However, this will significantly increase the cost of masonry. Therefore, usually the solution is prepared independently. The standard proportions are as follows:

The amount of water is adjusted for each specific case. The result should be a viscous non-spreading solution. If so, then you did everything right. At the end of cooking, it is necessary to add a plasticizer, which is used to increase frost resistance and increase density. A composition is considered qualitative if it has the following parameters:

• adhesion;
• plastic;
• homogeneity;
• frost resistance;
• self-sealing;
• strength;
• waterproof.

The main rule is that the solution must withstand the upcoming loads of the building. If the technology for manufacturing blocks is strictly observed, then the product will eventually turn out to be of high quality.

3. Prepare the necessary tools.

If you do not know where to start laying the cinder block, start it by choosing the necessary tools. You will need:

• A manual circular saw can be replaced with a hacksaw, since the cinder block is sawn quite easily.
• Respirator. Do not neglect safety measures and still use the indicated device during the sawing process (it cannot be avoided). And the price should not be the reason for not buying.
• Construction level, laser or bubble, your choice. You must be absolutely sure of the quality, so it is recommended to check it.
• Hammer or mallet.
• Trowel, which will be made independently, which will further reduce the cost of construction.
• Plumb. Its role is played by any weight on a fishing line or cord.
• Order. This tool is usually made of wood and is a river with a cross section (50x50 or 70x50 mm), length - about two meters. The goal is to mark the rows of masonry, fix the marks of the top and bottom of the openings.

After carrying out the preparatory work, you can begin to lay the cinder block directly.

Step by step laying instructions

1. The beginning of laying the cinder block is the pouring of the foundation, the width of which should slightly exceed the width of the blocks. The surface should be perfectly flat, without flaws in the form of bulges and pits.

2. Setting corners. For this purpose, rows are used, which are attached to each corner. It is necessary to select a tool taking into account the thickness of the blocks, as well as the thickness of the two seams. Between the row marks of each row, a thread or cord is pulled, which indicates the level of the row.

3. Directly masonry cinder block. The first layer is the most important, so this process is given special attention. First you need to spread the adhesive mixture in an even layer with a trowel, on which you want to put a cinder block. After 3 blocks are laid, the installation must be checked by level and plumb. Then repeat this procedure as often as possible, this is required by the instructions. This will avoid re-laying, which means that the price for the work will be lower. The next layers are laid in a similar way with level control. The thickness of the seam is not recommended to be more than 1.5 cm. The cracks are also filled with a cement composition. If a hollow cinder block is being laid, then in no case should the voids inside the blocks be filled with mortar, as this will lead to a loss of thermal insulation properties.

4. Completion of the work consists in facing the wall or its “joining” (on the cement between the blocks from the outside, cut with a cut hollow pipe with an oblique cut).

If the wall will not be faced, then soot can be added to the cement mortar. This will decorate the building, but you need to show it carefully and not stain the blocks.

Other Builder Tips

There are little tricks that will help make your job a little easier, since laying walls with your own hands can be difficult for an inexperienced builder.

1. Specialists, as a rule, lay the cinder block without using any additional devices. If you are doing this for the first time on your own, then you can use a template, the size of which depends on the dimensions of the blocks (it will be possible to make it yourself).

2. Red clay is used as a plasticizer, the more it is affordable.

3. You also need to take care in advance of making a special platform, which will be needed in order to be able to lay out the top layers. A stepladder is not suitable for this purpose, because you can’t take a bucket with you, and you constantly need to move it, and it’s easy to fall.

4. It is necessary to monitor the thickness of the seam. It should be no more than 1.5 cm, otherwise the heat will leave the building outside.

Do-it-yourself cinder block laying: step-by-step instructions, tools, tips

How to independently prepare a high-quality mortar for laying blocks? Useful tips for inexperienced builders.

Cinder block: do-it-yourself laying

Do-it-yourself cinder block masonry is gaining more and more popularity every year. This artificial stone is one of the cheapest building materials. At the same time, it has excellent technical characteristics and allows you to build not only buildings for household purposes, but also full-fledged residential buildings. The installation of a cinder block is not particularly difficult, so all the work can be done without the involvement of a construction team, which allows you to increase your professionalism and save a considerable amount.

Technical characteristics of the cinder block

Cinder blocks got their name due to the filler, which was previously used in the process of their production: slag, ash and other combustion products of solid fuels. However, such blocks were characterized by high moisture absorption and insufficient strength. Therefore, today fine-grained crushed stone, expanded clay, broken brick, sawdust, etc. are used as fillers.

The entire cinder block available on the domestic market can be conditionally divided into three types:

• full-bodied - high-strength building material, the weight of which is about 26-28 kg;
• hollow - has low thermal conductivity and is perfect for laying walls;
• semi-block - used for the design of interior partitions.

Each type has a certain voidness, the value of which determines the main characteristics of the product (strength and thermal conductivity). It is on voidness that you need to focus first of all when choosing blocks for building walls (Fig. 1).

When carrying out construction work with their own hands, many are interested in the question: what should be the thickness of the cinder block walls? It all depends on the purpose of the building being erected and the climatic zone in which it was built. The standard dimensions of this material are as follows: width - 390 mm, height - 188 mm, thickness - 190 mm.

The laying of cinder blocks, like ordinary bricks, can be carried out according to the following schemes:

Considering how to properly lay the cinder block, you need to know that with an increase in the thickness of the walls, their thermal conductivity decreases, that is, the house becomes warmer and more comfortable. At the same time, excessive thickness leads to additional financial waste and an increase in the load on the foundation. For the construction of a one-story house, the recommended thickness of cinder block walls is 380 mm (masonry in 1 block).

Preparatory work

Before laying the cinder block with your own hands, you need to prepare the following tools and materials:

• circular saw;
• electric drill with a nozzle for mixing the solution;
• building level;
• plumb;
• trowel;
• hammer;
• container for masonry mixture;
• cord;
• cement, sand;
• steel bars or reinforcing mesh.

High-quality masonry of any wall material begins with the creation of a reliable foundation. Its type depends on the condition of the soil in the summer cottage and the depth of groundwater. So, for heaving soils, the best option is a monolithic reinforced concrete foundation.

For stable soils with deep groundwater, a strip base is well suited, which can be made independently, without the use of special construction equipment and expensive equipment. Its width should be equal to or greater than the thickness of the future walls. To fill the foundation, a solution of cement, sand and gravel is prepared in a ratio of 1: 2: 4.

Strip base scheme

After complete hardening of the mounting mixture, a waterproofing material is laid on top of the concrete base to protect the blocks from moisture. As a waterproofing, it is recommended to use roofing material.

Cinder block walls are laid on cement mortar, which can be purchased at any hardware store or do it yourself. Ready-made dry mixes are relatively expensive, so many choose the second option. Masonry mortar is prepared from cement and sand in a ratio of 1:3. To give the mixture plasticity and increase its frost resistance, a plasticizer is added to it. The finished masonry mass should be viscous and spread slightly under the weight of the cinder block.

Do-it-yourself cinder block laying

Masonry of brick, cinder block or any other building material starts from the corners of the future house. In this case, you need to be very careful, since the evenness and reliability of all walls will depend on the correct setting of the corners. First, a little mortar is applied to the corners of the foundation and leveled with a trowel. Then two blocks are placed on top of it at a right angle, after which another block is mounted on them, observing the dressing of the seams.

In the same way, the rest of the corners of the house are kicked out. The masonry must be constantly checked for horizontal and vertical evenness using a building level and a plumb line.

If any element does not fit into the overall picture, it is corrected by slightly tapping with a trowel. Nails are hammered into the resulting seam between the upper and lower block and a cord is pulled, which will be a guideline when laying the first row. After the installation of the first row along the entire perimeter of the foundation, they begin laying the second row and so on.

Mounting joints in the walls are cold bridges through which heat escapes from the house, so their width should be minimal. For cinder blocks, the recommended joint width is about 10-15 mm. At smaller sizes, the masonry will have low strength.

To evenly distribute the load along the entire perimeter of the walls and increase the reliability of the masonry, its reinforcement is performed. For this, metal rods are used, which are mounted in the grooves of the blocks, or a reinforcing mesh. The first row of blocks is necessarily reinforced, after which this procedure is performed every 3-4 rows.

Properly erected cinder block walls will last for many years, reliably protecting residents from bad weather conditions and bringing warmth and comfort to the house.

Do-it-yourself cinder block laying: instructions

Do-it-yourself cinder block masonry is gaining more and more popularity every year. This artificial stone is one of the cheapest building materials.

Master class on the correct laying of cinder block

The question of how to lay a cinder block is asked when building the walls of a garage, an outbuilding or a fence.

For the construction of residential buildings, this material is no longer used, it was replaced by foam and gas blocks.

The main advantages of cinder block:

• the composition includes ordinary sand and cement, as well as gypsum, lime and slag;
• excellent strength, exemplary resistance to moisture and mechanical stress;
• lightweight and easy to use;
• low cost.

The only negative is the low thermal conductivity. In cold weather, a house made of cinder blocks quickly loses heat through the walls. However, the demand for this building material is not falling.

This disadvantage helps to eliminate a huge selection of heaters. So after consulting how to properly lay the cinder block, get down to business without any hesitation.

Hiring a construction team is not worth it; there is nothing super complicated in laying a cinder block with your own hands.

First prepare your tools:

• hacksaw or circular saw;
• building level;
• cord or fishing line;
• hammer;
• water level;
• trowel;
• ordering.

Preliminary work

The foundation on which the laying is carried out should be slightly wider than the width of the cinder block (at least 4 cm).

The platform for construction is made with waterproofing, since the components of the cinder block - lime and sand, cannot stand contact with water.

The foundation, in order to prevent the curvature of the future building, cannot be uneven.

Before starting DIY work, find scaffolding to stand on. They will come in handy if the calculated masonry height is more than the level of your chest.

Reaching for masonry in your hands with a cinder block will be a fair amount of torment, because you need to consider how much this material weighs. It is larger and heavier than a brick.

A simple ladder will not help in this case, there is no place on it to put a bucket of mortar.

Equally important is the consistency of the solution.

The correct solution is plastic, but not spreading, thick, like sour cream.

According to the rules, the mortar for laying the cinder block is prepared from the same amount of sand and cement and one third of red clay. The components are thoroughly mixed with the addition of water.

How much and in what proportions to mix these 4 components is described in detail in the video.

You can prepare cinder blocks with your own hands. Between themselves connect 2 boards two meters long with transverse boards.

The edge boards are fastened with the longitudinal ones. With the help of a chisel, a cut of 14 centimeters is formed in the longitudinal boards.

Then cells are cut out in the prepared material, which then need to be painted with oil paint. After the done actions, a mixture of concrete and ash is poured there.

Then holes are cut out in the prepared material and painted with oil paint. There must certainly be voids in the cinder block to provide additional heat.

When the solution in the mold hardens, you can tap it with a hammer and pull out the finished block. It is recommended to wait a day, and only then do the styling.

Corners and front row

The first blocks are laid in the corners of the building. This must be approached conscientiously and diligently: how straight the masonry will be in the corners, how even it will be on the walls.

Therefore, it is necessary to actively use the ordering (rectangular corner), checking each step.

On the foundation on both sides of the corner with a steel spatula (trowel), a solution is smeared with an even layer, on which two cinder blocks are placed at an angle of 90 degrees. Their upper side is again covered with a solution.

At this stage of laying, the uniformity of the horizontal line is checked with a level, and the vertical line is checked with a plumb line.

If there is distortion, it is easy to fix it with a hammer, gently tapping on the blocks from the desired side. The same method must be used when laying the remaining corners.

Then, a nail is driven into the joints between all the lower and upper blocks in order to pull a thick fishing line on them.

Along this conditional line, they continue to lay the first row of cinder block, not forgetting to use the building level.

If suddenly the last element of the perimeter masonry does not fit into its place due to its larger size, then it can be reduced with an ordinary hacksaw. Cinder blocks are sawn without problems.

You only need to adjust the size of the block with a saw in a respirator and goggles - a lot of dust and grains of slag fly during sawing.

Second and subsequent rows

A solution is poured onto all the seams of the masonry, removing the excess with a spatula. Then lay the laying of other rows. The cinder block is not laid on the principle of brickwork, erecting one wall and then another.

It is laid, passing along the perimeter of the building.

A new row also begins to be laid from the corner. A second cinder block is placed on the block in the bottom row, and a third is placed on it, closing the seams. The entire second row has cinder blocks following the example of the first.

At the same time, the correct laying in a horizontal and vertical position is periodically checked.

The cut parts should be in the masonry as far apart as possible, for example, in opposite corners.

The laying condition of the two starting rows is very important. Therefore, it is not worth starting construction in a hurry. Subsequently, the progress of construction will accelerate.

If you have practical baggage behind you, then you can check the horizontals after 3-6 blocks, the verticals - after 4 completed rows.

The edges between the cinder blocks must be maintained in the amount of one or one and a half cm. If you make the seams very narrow, then the masonry will be less reliable, huge seams will lead to heat leakage from the house.

It is not advised to apply the solution to the voids inside the blocks.

The opinion that this will add strength is erroneous. Rather, this will violate the thermal insulation properties of the wall and increase the consumption of mortar components.

Styling technologies

Cinder block laying is usually done in one of two ways.

Method number 1 - spoon, that is, half a stone. It occurs most often.

Method number 2 - tychkovy, otherwise, in one stone. The technology of laying in 2 or one and a half stones is possible only when building houses for permanent residence, where the walls are 75-80 centimeters thick.

This construction technology coincides with the brick laying method.

It makes no sense to cover cinder block walls with plaster, it will not hold, since the material has poor adhesion.

Finishing each wall of a cinder block structure is strongly advised with a decorative stone.

If you are planning to build a cinder block structure, do not lose sight of the fact that the cinder block may contain harmful volatile compounds.

Therefore, you can leave it for a while in an open place or in a ventilated building.

If the laying of the cinder block is done in accordance with all the rules, then taking into account the special nuances, then you will build an impeccable cinder block room with your own hands.

Excess cinder block is usually left on the porch or on the foundation.

It is appropriate to make a cinder block porch if there is a significant difference between the level of the courtyard and the house.

The cinder block foundation is laid only where the soil is dry, for a house with a small load.

Groundwater must pass below the layer of frozen soil.

You also need to consider how many floors there will be in the building. If more than one, it is better to change the decision and build a concrete base.

Do not ignore the fact that the cinder block has pores, which is why it must be well insulated and lined.

The question of how to lay a cinder block is asked when building the walls of a garage, an outbuilding or a fence. For residential buildings, this material is no longer used.

Cinder block is one of the most affordable building materials. It is famous not only for its cheapness, but also for the fact that this material can be made independently. In this case, you can save even more.

If you build from blocks with your own hands, then the costs will be minimal. Moreover, it is quite easy to do. It does not matter what type of building is planned - a house, an outbuilding, a bathhouse, a garage. If you learn how to properly lay cinder blocks and approach this process responsibly, then the future building can stand for more than a dozen years.

Types of masonry

There are several types of cinder block:

• hollow;
• full-bodied;
• half block;
• decorative.

Decorative cinder block is used to increase the moisture resistance of the outer side of the wall

Usually, a hollow block is used for walls. In this case, the load on the foundation will be less. The weight of one hollow block can reach 23 kg, and a full-bodied block - 28 kg. Therefore, the latter is not used in the construction of walls. A solid block is used in the construction of the foundation (but not in the case of building a building from cinder blocks), in the construction of basement floors, load-bearing structures and columns.

There are also several types of masonry:

• in one stone;
• one and a half stones;
• in the floor of a stone (spoon method);
• into two stones.

The choice of method should be based on the type of future construction. But it must be remembered that the thicker the wall, the warmer the building will be. If you plan to build a small outbuilding, for example, a barn, then in this case you can apply the half-stone method. For this, semi-blocks are just right.

Mortar for laying cinder blocks

The masonry mortar has different proportions. Usually, they proceed from what type of building is planned to be erected. You can buy a ready-made dry solution in the store, in which all that remains is to add water and stir. But in this case, the price of masonry increases.

Therefore, more often the solution is prepared independently. The simplest and most standard mortar for laying cinder block is prepared in the following proportions:

• 3 parts sand;
• 1 part dry cement;
• water.

It should be noted that water must be added so that the solution is viscous and does not spread much when laying the cinder block. Also plasticizer can be added to the solution. It increases frost resistance, reduces porosity and increases the density of the solution.

After adding the plasticizer, the solution will have the following properties:

• stickiness;
• plastic;
• homogeneity;
• frost resistance;
• self-sealing;
• strength;
• moisture resistance.

Instead of a purchased plasticizer, home craftsmen use, for example, cheap shampoo. But such experiments are the personal risk of the developer.

When preparing the solution, it is also necessary to take into account the weight of the future structure. The solution must withstand all loads. It is necessary to knead the mixture in a concrete mixer, which will ensure greater uniformity and quality of the solution.

Foundation for laying cinder blocks

You need to know how to lay the block on the foundation. After all, this is the very beginning of the work.

Usually the foundation for a cinder block building is made monolithic. In the end, it should turn out like this so that the foundation rises above the ground by about 0.7 meters.

The thickness of the foundation should be equal to the thickness of one cinder block or slightly more. Before laying the cinder block the foundation must be waterproofed from the wall, after which you can proceed to the masonry process. But you need to understand that the base must be even for the successful laying of the first row of blocks, otherwise the entire construction process will be spent in vain.

Required Tools

For proper laying you need to have the following tools:

• construction trowel;
• building level;
• row alignment cord. You can use a regular clothesline or fishing line;
• hammer;
• plumb;
• order;
• masonry template;
• circular saw or hacksaw.

Laying cinder blocks with your own hands, step by step instructions

In principle, the process of laying blocks is similar to bricklaying, with the exception that the block is larger than the brick in size, so the laying is several times faster.

The laying of the first row of cinder blocks must be taken especially seriously, since it sets the evenness of the entire wall.

How to place blocksindependently, step by step instructions:

• the mixture is prepared in a concrete mixer;
• the solution is placed on the foundation, while the thickness of the solution should not exceed 1.5 cm, otherwise the thermal insulation of the masonry will be broken;
• the mixture is leveled and, along a pre-tensioned cord, a cinder block is laid;
• align the cinder block according to the level, tapping the back of the trowel into the required place of the cinder block;
• immediately remove excess mortar from the cracks, which squeezed out under the weight of the cinder block;
• when laying the next row, the floor of the block is laid in the corners. To get it, you can cut a whole cinder block in half with a grinder or a hacksaw.

After the row is laid, it must be carefully leveled again using a cord and a building level. Subsequent rows are laid in exactly the same way as the first.

It can be seen that the process of laying blocks is practically the same as masonry foam blocks, which can also be done by hand. The masonry is the same due to the fact that both materials have almost the same dimensions.

Wall reinforcement

In order to increase the strength of the walls, distribute the load and reduce the risk of cracking, reinforcement is used.

The following materials can be used for reinforcement:

• reinforcing mesh (armoset) for masonry. Usually this is a grid, with a cell of 50 × 50 mm. She is placed between the rows;
• reinforcement or reinforcing cage.

Be sure to reinforce the first row of masonry. Every fourth row of the wall is also reinforced. In addition, it is mandatory to reinforce door and window openings.

Template for laying cinder blocks

Professionals usually lay the cinder block without any fixtures. But if the laying is done by a beginner, you must have a template for laying cinder blocks on hand, which you can do with your own hands. Such a template can be made from improvised means, for example, from wooden boards.

The size of the template is calculated based on the size of the cinder block. After all, the dimensions of one cinder block can vary, especially if the material was made at home. The height of the template should be 1-1.5 cm, based on the thickness of the seam.

Price category

The construction site is a place of increased danger. Therefore, it is necessary to observe safety precautions and work with gloves and a helmet.

Before laying walls from cinder blocks, you need to find out the price for the work. Builders usually charge 20 rubles for laying one cinder block. Based on this, you can find out how much the construction of the necessary building will cost, knowing its size. Of course, it is better to lay cinder blocks on your own, and you can save a lot. In this case, the cost will be only for the material itself.

Price for 1 piece of cinder block:

To determine how much material will be spent on construction, you need to know the dimensions of the future building, as well as the dimensions of the cinder block itself, which are 390x190x188 mm. It can be seen that the dimensions are quite large, so the construction speed increases significantly compared to conventional bricks.

The evenness of the masonry along the cord and the building level should be checked as often as possible in order to avoid curvature of the walls and rows in the future.

If the walls are not planned to be finished with anything in the future, then the seams between the rows should have an attractive appearance. To do this, you can use a small rounded stick, which you need press the seams a little after each laid row, while the mortar has not yet hardened.

When marking blocks use colored crayons. They are best seen on cinder blocks, compared to, for example, a regular pencil.

To increase plasticity you can add a little detergent to the solution.

It is necessary to knead exactly as much solution as will be used up at a time. Otherwise, unused mortar may harden and be unsuitable for construction.

It is desirable to plaster the outer walls, because cinder block is afraid of moisture. In this case, the plaster will protect the material. But since the plaster is poorly applied to the cinder block and may fall off over time, it is necessary to use a reinforced mesh. Internal walls can be sheathed with drywall.

Conclusion

If you know how to properly lay cinder blocks with your own hands, you can save a lot in the construction process. After all, the services of professional builders are not cheap, and doing masonry with your own hands is not difficult.

If you approach the masonry process responsibly, you can avoid many problems in the future. And the building can stand for up to a hundred years, if the correct construction technology is observed.

You can see how to earn time on laying walls from cinder blocks with your own hands in the video:

Related books:

Owners of individual housing are always useful to have some building skills. This not only simplifies the arrangement and housekeeping, but also significantly saves the family budget. When it becomes necessary to build utility rooms, the ability to properly lay the cinder block with your own hands will come in handy.

1. Pros and cons of cinder concrete
2. Step-by-step installation technology
3. Masonry features

Characteristic features of cinder blocks

The material is of artificial origin and looks like a large compressed element. The binder is cement. As a filler, blast-furnace slag, granite or stone screenings, coarse sand, ash, perlite, broken glass are used. To improve the technical and operational parameters, plasticizers are introduced into the composition. Standard dimensions are 390×190×188 mm. Such large products are much easier to lay out than bricks. The laying time is reduced, and the mortar is saved.

In appearance and main purpose, cinder blocks are of several types: hollow, full-bodied, semi-blocks and decorative. The latter option serves to finish and enhance the moisture resistance of the exterior walls of the house.

Advantages:

• cheapness;
• wide use;
• big sizes.

Disadvantages:

• high thermal conductivity;
• insufficient sound insulation;
• weak frost resistance;
• strong moisture absorption.

It is not recommended to make basements, wells, drain sewer pits from cinder blocks. It will be correct to use them for the construction of unheated premises. With your own hands you can lay out a barn, garage, summer kitchen, workshop. If a residential building is built from such material, then the walls from the inside and outside must be seriously insulated and lined.

Step-by-step instructions for laying blocks

Considering the scheme for erecting walls, we will assume that the foundation for them is already ready and insulated. The main thing is that the base should be the same (or slightly larger) width as the cinder blocks. There should be no bulges or pits on the surface.

1. Preparation.

The toolbox includes:

• water level;
• plumb line (fishing line or twine);
• trowel;
• rubber mallet (mallet);
• order;
• hand saw or hacksaw;
• respirator (must be worn when cutting blocks).

Lay 4 elements at the tops of the corners, achieving the correct rectangle, fix the rows with marks. It will be easier to lay blocks along them, focusing on their thickness and the width of the seams. Between the rows, pull the cord, along which it is convenient to adjust the styling. Prepare cement mortar in a concrete mixer.

2. First row.

The evenness of the walls and the durability of the entire structure depend on how correctly the initial layer is laid out.

• Apply a layer of cement mortar and evenly distribute it over the surface of the foundation.
• Take one block with your left hand by the middle and bring it to the masonry site at an angle of 45 °. Then unroll it parallel to the wall and lay it down.
• Adjust the stone under the stretched cord, lightly tapping with a hammer.
• Remove excess composition from the cracks, which squeezed out under the weight of the stone.
• In the same way, install the second and third stones.
• Check the evenness of the row using a plumb line and a hydraulic level.
• Continue laying bricks to the end, periodically checking their location.

3. Subsequent rows.

Start the installation of the second and all even layers from the half of the block in order to move the row. Otherwise, they follow the same technology as for the first layer: applying the mortar, placing the stone, leveling along the cord, removing excess.

The nuances of masonry work

Need cement brand M400 or M500. Any sand is suitable, but it is better that it be gray (river). The addition of plasticizers gives elasticity, reduces porosity and facilitates application. To save money, a special substance can be replaced with red clay or wood ash (a third of a bucket for 4 buckets of the mixture), as well as household detergent.

2. How to prepare the masonry composition yourself?

Pour a dry mixture of cement and sand into the drum of a concrete mixer, maintaining a ratio of 1: 3. Turn on the unit and, adding water in small portions, knead the solution of medium viscosity. The plasticizer is introduced at the very end.

3. How to determine the volume of one batch?

When preparing DSP, follow this rule: knead so much that it lasts for an hour and a half of work. The installation of four blocks takes a bucket of mixture. The unused composition quickly hardens and becomes further unusable.

4. What is the optimum joint thickness?

Cement joints must securely hold the masonry, so it is very important to carefully seal all cracks, maintaining a thickness of 10-15 mm. The wet mortar that is released after leveling is removed and placed between the stones. According to the instructions, it is not recommended to smear it on the surface of the cinder block, filling in irregularities - this worsens the insulating qualities of the material.

5. How to start installation?

Determine the method and thickness of the masonry. Depending on the purpose of the building and climatic conditions, it can be laid in one, one and a half or two stones. For internal partitions, the spoon construction method is usually used - in half a cinder block.

6. What is stitching?

If the walls are not supposed to be lined, then the seams need to be “embroidered”. To do this, use a special knife in the form of a curved hollow tube with an oblique cut. Its diameter should be equal to the width of the seam. Run the tool over all inter-unit connections, applying light pressure. The result is a beautiful and even stitching.

7. What is reinforcement used for?

To strengthen the walls, reduce the load and prevent the appearance of cracks, reinforcement should be placed between the cinder blocks. This rule is mandatory for the first and every fourth row of the wall.

For work use the following materials:

• Metal mesh with mesh sizes of 50 × 50 mm - in order to prevent rusting, it is covered with a masonry compound.
• Steel bars - are placed in the grooves between the blocks and protect the DSP from above.
• Reinforcing cage - made of galvanized steel strips, connecting them together with wire. Fix in the wall with mortar or glue.

According to the instructions, window and door openings are also subject to mandatory reinforcement.

• Before starting, you should think about how to carry out work at height yourself. An ordinary ladder or stepladder is not suitable for this purpose. It is best to use scaffolding or a special platform with height adjustment. Accessories and a bucket of mortar fit well on it.
• The laying of a hollow cinder block is always made with holes down.
• In the process of working on the wall, you have to repeatedly put marks. It is convenient to do this with the help of colored crayons, which are clearly visible on the cinder blocks.
• If necessary, you can change the color of the seam joints: add soot, lime or copper sulfate. The seams will turn black, white or bluish.

In this manual, we will describe the entire process of laying bricks, starting from checking the foundation and ending with laying several rows of bricks at the laid out corners.

Taken as an example:

• rectangular foundation (this instruction can also be applied to the basement);
• wall thickness of half a brick with bandaging of seams.

Article plan:

Tools and materials
We check the horizontalness of the foundation with a hydraulic level
Checking the foundation diagonals
Waterproofing before bricklaying
Laying out the first row and marking the foundation
We prepare the brick and the workplace
Solution preparation
Laying out the first brick
Making corners
Installation of a mooring cord
Laying rows along the quay
Reinforcement of masonry SNiP

Tools and materials

To begin with, we will prepare all the necessary tools and materials for the upcoming work.

Instruments:

• Trowel (trowel)
• Pickhammer
• Shovel shovel
• Stitching
• ordering
• Cord-mooring
• Hydraulic level
• plumb line
• Building level
• 2 templates: metal bar 10x10mm and 12x12mm
• Concrete mixer or trough
• Gloves

A detailed description of the tools can be viewed on our website www.gvozdem.ru in the article "Tools for brick laying".

materials

• Brick
• For mortar: cement, sand, plasticizer or lime or Fairy
• Masonry mesh for reinforcement

Preparatory work. Foundation

So, let's begin. We have a rectangular strip foundation, on which we will build a half-brick wall.

We check the horizontalness of the foundation with a hydraulic level

First you need to determine how flat relative to the ground level we got the horizontal surface of the foundation? For this purpose, we will use the hydraulic level and check the corners first, and then the entire perimeter along the foundation. (when filling the water level with water, make sure that there are no bubbles in the tube, otherwise the measurements may not be accurate).

In the figure, we see that both corners are at the same level. As the masters say, "is at zero." But this method of measurement cannot be applied if our foundation has discrepancies regarding the level. So let's move on to a more practical way.

Let's lower the 1st flask of the hydraulic level relative to the foundation so that the “0” mark is 5 cm lower than the upper surface of the foundation (with the condition that the maximum difference along the foundation at the max point is slightly less than 5 cm). Opposite the “0” mark on the flask, we put a mark on the foundation. We will not touch this flask now. First, let's check all the outer corners of the foundation, in our case there are 4 of them. To do this, we will transfer the 2nd flask to all 3 corners, and put a mark on the foundation opposite the “0” mark, which is on the 2nd flask. Then we repeat the steps with the 2nd flask, transferring it to other measured points on the foundation.

When we have placed all the marks, we begin to measure the distances between the mark on the foundation and the upper edge of the foundation. In the figure, we measured the distance on two segments: a and b. Assume distance a=5cm and b=5cm (a=b). Therefore, the foundation at these points is set to "0".

The second option is a=5cm, b=3cm. Therefore, there is a difference relative to zero of 2 cm. Such a foundation needs to be leveled, while we take the highest point on the foundation as zero. There are several ways to align:

• leveling screed on a cement-sand mortar using formwork,
• brickwork, changing the thickness of the horizontal seam.

If the difference is large, then it is better to level it with a mortar, if it is small, then it is possible with the help of masonry. Just do not forget that the thickness of the horizontal seam allowed according to SNiP should be 12 mm with a tolerance of + 3, -2 mm (according to SNiP 3.03.01-87). When reinforcing, the maximum thickness of the seam should not exceed 16mm. And for reference: the allowed permissible deviation from the horizontal for 10m of masonry is up to 15mm, which is then eliminated by the next row.

Checking the foundation diagonals

The second important point when checking the foundation should be given to the diagonals. Ideally, the diagonals in a rectangular foundation should match. According to the figure, we displayed the coincidence of the diagonals in a small equality D1=D2. If they are equal, we can judge that all our parallel sides have the same length and all 4 angles are at 90 degrees. These conditions are important to us so that our walls turn out to be even.

If there is a slight discrepancy in the diagonals, then this inaccuracy can be compensated during laying by reducing the long side and increasing the short one. Of course, if the thickness of the foundation and the thickness of the masonry allow us to do this.

Waterproofing

After we figured out the measurements of the foundation, we proceed to the next stage: waterproofing the upper part of the foundation. It is carried out using 2 layers of roofing material. The second layer is laid with overlapping seams of the first by 10 - 15 cm. Roofing material can be laid in several ways:

• dry, I temporarily press the roofing material to the foundation with bricks (so as not to be blown away by the wind);
• on bituminous mastic or heated bitumen;
• gluing by heating the surface of the roofing material with a burner.

Modern roofing material has several modifications: rubemast, glass roofing material (stekloizol), euroroofing material. According to their characteristics, they are superior to ordinary roofing material, but their price is higher. A wide choice of rolled waterproofing is offered by TechnoNIKOL.

Why you need to waterproof the foundation before brickwork? It's simple - so that moisture from the foundation does not pass into the basement or brick walls. Moisture can be not only due to rain and snowmelt, but also simply from the capillary suction of water from the soil of our foundation. Moreover, if we have a brick base and brick walls, then it will need to be waterproofed twice:

• between the foundation and the plinth;
• between the plinth and the brick wall.

Laying out the first row and marking the foundation

The next step is laying out the first row of bricks dry, that is, without using mortar.

What is it for? Masonry is considered ideal when the walls are laid out with whole bricks (without three-quarters, halves, and even more so quarters). Of course, the laying of corners is not taken into account, since brick shares are needed for dressing, and backfills where brick shares can be used. We are mainly talking about the front masonry, which should, as they say, "pleasing to the eye." Therefore, at this stage we will lay out the entire first row dry along the entire perimeter with vertical seams of 10mm. In order for the seam to turn out to be the same everywhere, we will use a template (metal square rod 10x10mm). If, as a result of the layout, we see that the last whole brick does not reach the edge of the foundation, or vice versa, the brick hangs over the foundation, then we can reduce or increase the width of the vertical seam. According to SNiP (3-03-01-87), the tolerance for vertical seams is + -2mm. If you can’t do without a share of a brick, then prepare it right away and determine where to place it. You also need to take into account that if we put the front brick over the basement, then we can make a small extension of the outer verst beyond the edges of the basement, since the basement will be plastered in the future.

After we have laid the entire row, it is necessary to make marks on the foundation (or basement), where we will have vertical seams. Due to the fact that each brick has small errors from standard sizes, it is recommended to use exactly the same brick during laying that we used during dry laying. Therefore, after marking, simply place each brick on the foundation opposite the marks. At the same time, if your roofing material is laid dry, just press it temporarily against the foundation with a brick.

We prepare the brick and the workplace

Do not forget that it is advisable to use the solution within 1-3 hours until it begins to set. Therefore, it is desirable to perform all preparatory work before preparing the solution, namely:

• Lay small stacks of bricks along the foundation. If the width of the foundation allows, then the brick can be placed directly on the foundation. The main thing is that it does not interfere with you when laying and at the same time you can easily reach it.
• Prepare the necessary tools for the job.

There is another type of work that is recommended to be done mainly when working with solid red brick. Namely, wet the brick with water. Just not until it is completely saturated with water, otherwise the brick will float on the solution. Then the logical question is how long to wet the brick. Experienced masons, according to the results of voting on one popular forum, share this opinion in the following proportions:

• do not wet 10%,
• wet for a couple of seconds 50%
• soak for 15 minutes 40%

Decide which way to choose for yourself, but if you are new to bricklaying, we recommend that you soak it for a while. Soaked brick retains a sufficiently long mobility on the mortar, thereby giving you the opportunity to eliminate possible defects. It is believed that the seam when using soaked brick is stronger, since there is no suction of moisture from the mortar by the brick itself. If you are too lazy to soak the brick in water, then there is a simple way - just pour plenty of water over the brick with a garden hose. © www.gvozdem.ru

Solution preparation

For laying bricks, we need a cement-sand mortar. To prepare it, we will use the following ratio:

• 1 share of cement (shovel, bucket, kg)
• 4 shares of sand (shovel, bucket, kg)
• lime or plasticizer or liquid soap (Fairy)
• water (by eye).

The ratio of cement to sand may differ depending on the characteristics of the cement-sand mortar we need (1 share of cement to 2.5-6 shares of sand). A plasticizer is added to give the solution plasticity. This characteristic is important for comfortable work during laying.

How to cook?

1. We take a container for mixing the solution. Ideally, it is better to use a concrete mixer. If it is not there, then any container convenient for these purposes (trough, etc.) will do.
2. We put 4 shovels of sand into the concrete mixer, and then 1 shovel of cement. We mix.
3. Add water by eye to obtain the desired consistency. At the same time, add 2-3 drops of Fairy (either a plasticizer or lime) previously diluted in a small amount of water. Mix thoroughly.

The solution should resemble thick honey or cottage cheese, depending on which solution we need.

You can also use our calculator for calculating the composition of the mortar and counting the number of batches for a concrete mixer: Calculator for calculating the composition of the mortar

Brick laying process

We start laying from the corners, the rows of which we display opposite each other at the same level. Why from the corners? Because the corners will serve as guidelines for laying out the walls using a mooring cord. The cord is stretched between 2 adjacent rows of bricks that make up the corner. Therefore, it is very important to observe the horizontal and vertical angles running at the same level against each other.

First of all, it is necessary to prepare the so-called "bed" from the solution. If you do not have much experience, then we recommend putting the mortar on one brick that we are going to lay. The thickness of the laid mortar should be somewhere around 20-25mm (by eye), so that during the pressing of the brick, the thickness of the horizontal seam becomes 12mm (horizontal seam standard). We put the solution with a trowel. Our bed should not reach the edge of the foundation (or the underlying brick) by 20-30mm, if the seams are going to be embroidered, or 10-15mm, if undercut. In order for us to get the 12 mm seam we need, you can use a template (metal rod 12x12mm), which we lay along the very edge of the foundation in the place where we will lay the brick. We need a rod template before setting the order. Then, to maintain the thickness of the horizontal seam, it will be possible to use divisions in order. According to the marks on the foundation, we control the location of the vertical seams of the first row.

We proceed to the process of laying bricks on the mortar. We take a brick, put it on the bed and lightly press down. Then, using the level, we check the horizon and vertical in 3 directions, and if we see discrepancies somewhere, lightly knock out the brick with a pickaxe hammer or a trowel handle.

Making corners

Now, using the knowledge gained, we expose the corners brick by brick. The main thing is not to forget that the quality of the masonry of the entire wall will largely depend on how correctly the corners are set. Therefore, we use both an eye and devices that will help us in setting the corners.

Using a plumb line, we check the verticality of the masonry. A plumb bob is considered a very accurate device for checking the verticality of a surface. Probably the simplest and most accurate compared to the building level, which can sometimes fail. It makes no sense to use a plumb line when we have 1-2 rows of masonry, since it is difficult to determine by eye the divergence from the vertical in such a small area.

In the picture, we displayed 3 points equally distant from the masonry. Based on the fact that the distances in these segments are equal, we can conclude that our masonry is laid out exactly vertically. To work with a plumb line, of course, you need to have a good eye, since we determine all the distances between the masonry and the plumb line visually, by eye.

In order to maintain the same horizontal joints and to control the levelness of the masonry, we recommend using orders. They will be especially useful for people with little experience in bricklaying. Orders are set strictly vertically (along a plumb line or level) and are attached to the masonry with the help of U-shaped brackets. The distance between the divisions of the order is 77mm for a single brick (brick thickness 65mm + seam 12mm) and 100mm for a thickened brick (88mm + 12mm).

We pull the mooring cord

After removing the corners, you can proceed directly to the laying of the wall. In order for the whole row to be at the same level, we stretch the mooring cord between two opposite rows, which we have drawn in the same horizontal line. For mooring, you can use either a nylon thread, or a fishing line, or an analogue. The main thing is that it be strong and be visible to you when laying. The mooring can be fixed:

• to order, if holes are provided in it;
• with staples and nails.

We have shown both methods in the figures.

The mooring is fixed with a vertical indent from the masonry by 2-3 mm, so that there is no contact between the mooring and the brick along the entire length.

If there are no holes in the pier, then you can follow the simple and most common way to install the pier. To do this, we need 1 nail and 1 staple per 1 corner. We insert the nail into the finished seam and tie the mooring to it. Then we insert the mooring into the bracket. We put the bracket with the mooring threaded into it on the brick, along which we will make a row and press the bracket with a free-lying brick from above (without mortar). A stiff wire bent in half can serve as a staple. The figure shows in detail how it will look visually.

If the mooring sags, then you need to install the so-called beacons. For this purpose, 2 bricks are taken. The first is placed, taking into account the thickness of the seam, on the mortar or a rod template (12x12mm), and the second is placed with a poke on the first brick. We insert a nail between the bricks, on which the mooring is wound tightly.

We lay out the bottom row of the wall between the corners

On a stretched quay, we expose the first row of bricks between two corners. The thickness of the vertical joints and the location of the bricks are controlled by the risks on the foundation.

Lay out the rest of the rows

Then we lay the rest of the rows with dressing of seams according to the same principle (in our case, dressing in half a brick). At the same time, we no longer set the risks as on the foundation for the first row, but we make sure that the vertical seams through the row are at the same level. In the figure, this is for example the seams in the 1st and 3rd row. You will find more detailed information about the types and methods of dressing seams in our article “All about brickwork. Bandaging seams.

Further, according to this principle, all the walls of our building are exposed. Do not forget to monitor the cleanliness of the front side of the masonry and embroider the seams until the mortar sets. Also, if masonry reinforcement is necessary, we determine after how many rows we will do it (usually every 5-6 rows). © www.gvozdem.ru

Masonry reinforcement

SNiP II-22-81 "Stone and reinforced masonry structures".

That's all. If you missed something or have questions, you can ask them in the comments.