Tiles on the floor on wooden logs. Is it worth the risk when laying tiles on a wooden floor?
Usually found in all old apartments, but also often settled in a new home. At the same time, such a base can be equipped in any room, from the bedroom to the bathroom. Tiles are known to be one of the the best materials, which can withstand prolonged exposure to moisture without harming themselves, therefore it is precisely such a coating that fits in the bathrooms and in the kitchen. But how to lay tiles on a wooden floor, if one is equipped in all rooms? After all, there is an opinion that such a coating and a tree are incompatible.
Experienced craftsmen who have been decorating rooms for many years say that ceramic tiles and wooden base- things are incompatible. Many people think that it is pointless to tile a wooden base, as the floors will be cold and unpleasant, in contrast to the cozy ones made of wood.
Another factor influencing the opinion of experts is that under a layer of tile adhesive and the tile itself, the base simply will not “breathe” properly, which will quickly become unusable. The formation of the opinion that wood and ceramics are incompatible was also influenced by the fact that the service lives of these materials are quite different from each other - wood will become unusable much faster than ceramics, and the mobility of the wooden base will significantly affect what is quite fragile tiles may be damaged.
That is why the use of tiles on a wooden base in order to reduce the impact of moisture on the latter is a rather controversial issue. Although it is this argument that is often given in favor of arranging a tiled flooring based on wood.
On a note! If the tile will be laid in a house under construction or already built, but a new house, it is best to mount this type of coating on - just do not equip wooden floors where it is planned to install this type of coating. Also, tiles cannot be laid on a newly equipped wooden floor, since the tree will “get used” to the operating conditions for 2-3 years, lie down and will “play” for a long time.
It is important to remember that the tile coating, due to the severity of the adhesive / finishing material, significantly increases the pressure on the floors, and if they are made of wood, they may not be designed for such additional weight and will quickly become unusable - they will break.
It is believed that the wooden base for the tile is good because it does not have to be further leveled, and this is somewhat true. Indeed, a number preparatory work will only be carried out if the floors are already very old and need some repairs. Relatively fresh wood usually lays well, does not warp, and is one of the best options for evenness of the base for demanding tiles. Everything else speaks far from being in favor of the close proximity of ceramics and wood. In general, it is only wise to lay tiles if the wood is really constantly exposed to significant water.
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tarkett floor tiles
When the need arises
If there are so many "contraindications" for laying tiled flooring on a wooden base, then why is this an option? repair work does it have a place? It's simple - sometimes ceramic coating you just have to mount it on a wooden base. This may be in the following cases:
- in timber, log, frame houses;
- in case of constant exposure to water in large quantities on a wooden base;
- with fairly frequent wet cleaning in a room with a wooden floor;
- in bathrooms, kitchens, bathrooms, saunas, baths.
How to correctly lay tiles on a wooden floor
The only guarantee that a tile lying on a wooden floor will last for many years is only its correct styling during which certain installation rules will be observed. Subtleties of technology and recommendations:
- for such work, only light tiles with a low density can be used;
- the base of the floor must be strong and reliable;
- the subfloor must be carefully checked and prepared if necessary;
- tiling can be done on a wooden base, equipped at least two years ago;
- to the wood from the bottom of the floor must be supplied Fresh air to avoid the onset of decay processes;
- the load should be distributed evenly;
- the base must be as stable as possible.
First of all, the base of the floor must pass a certain test. It is carefully examined, thanks to which it is possible to assess its condition. The floor should not sag, creak, crunch underfoot. The base should be as even as possible - all sagging floorboards must be replaced with new ones.
Attention! If you lay a tile on a sagging wooden floor, then it will definitely collapse under the pressure of the legs and furniture - it will begin to crumble and break, as the tree under it will bend and “walk”. It is important to make sure of the stability and reliability of the wooden floor even before purchasing the material and starting work.
Also when installing tiles small size on an unprepared and unreliable base, there is a risk that not the tile itself will crack, but the seams that will be between the individual elements of the coating. Because of this, moisture will begin to get under the tile layer, undermine the tree. And dirt will accumulate in open seams.
Also, the preparation of the base includes the replacement of floorboards affected by the fungus. The fact is that if they are not removed, the fungus will eventually spread throughout the base and significantly reduce its service life. The result is the destruction of the base and damage to the tile.
Important! Laying a layer between them will help to reconcile the wooden base and the tile, which will compensate for the movements of the floor and prevent them from adversely affecting the tile floor.
Good condition of the base
So, it was found that it is possible to lay tiles on a good reliable base. So how is the work done in this case?
Step 1. First of all, the base of the floor is prepared. All garbage is swept away from it, the wooden base is treated with special protective preparations for wood, which will help it fight bugs, fungus, and mold. Next, a layer is mounted on the floor surface waterproofing material so that its individual strips overlap and are fastened with adhesive tape. Further, an additional leveling material is mounted on the surface, which will not “walk” like the tree itself, which means it will allow you to keep the tile intact. It can be plywood, moisture-resistant gypsum fiber sheet, etc. The material is attached to the base with self-tapping screws in increments of 15-20 cm. The joints of the material are coated with glue.
Step 2 Calculation in progress required amount tiles. The number of elements will directly depend on the size of individual copies of the material, as well as on the area of \u200b\u200bthe room being repaired. In order to find out right amount material, the area of the room is divided by the area of one tile. It turns out the total number of required material.
Important! Buy ceramic tiles necessary with a small margin in case of damage to part of the material during installation. Tiles - the material is quite fragile until it is laid on the base, and breaks easily.
Calculator for calculating the amount of adhesive for laying tiles
Ceramic tiles are placed on a specially prepared base. It must be distinguished high level strength and reliability, because it must be able to withstand a lot of weight. The best option, perhaps, could be a leveled base of concrete screed.
Can you put tiles on a wooden floor? Masters will unequivocally say: "Yes." However, we must not forget that wood is a living material and is highly dependent on the impacts environment, which imposes special requirements for the preparation of the base. So, start by preparing the foundation. The scope of the upcoming work directly depends on the state in which the wooden floor is located.
Work begins with a quality check of the base. Ideally, the boards should not sag or creak, they should be even, without dents or notches. The type of future coverage also matters.
How to assess the condition of the coating
A correct assessment of a wooden coating can only be made if it is “bare”, that is, without a paint layer. There are three ways to remove paint or varnish. possible options:
- thermal. The surface is heated to about 600°C using building hair dryer, after which the paint layer is easily removed using a conventional spatula;
- chemical. Paintwork dissolve using special formulations or solvents
- mechanical. A layer of varnish or paint is removed using power tools with metal nozzles, say, brushes. The cleaned surface is sanded with sandpaper.
It will be much more convenient to work if the emery is first screwed onto a small bar.
After cleaning, the condition of the floor is assessed.
The first sign of poor condition of floorboards or lags are noises and creaks when walking. Before laying tiles on a wooden floor, they should be removed using the following technology.
- The condition of the beams is checked. If mold or fungus is present on the surface, it is necessary to replace it.
- Subfloor level adjustment. For this, special gaskets are installed under the logs.
- Warming. It is done if the level of heat loss is high. As a material, you can, or mineral wool.
- Possible replacement rough coating. Before laying tiles on a wooden floor, it is necessary to check its ability to withstand mechanical stress. An alternative to standard boards can be sheets of fiberboard or DSP for the floor. It is important that they are waterproof.
How to put a tile on the floor with your own hands, if its wooden surface is not adapted to adhesive composition? To avoid premature destruction of the rough substrate, direct contact of the natural material with the adhesive or concrete mortar. This can be done in several ways.
Often, floor boards change their configuration during operation. To level the floor surface, you can increase their pressure to the beams by hammering a few additional nails.
Formation of a damper layer
The main problem with this type of base is its thermal expansion. Under influence external factors it can change its size or curvature. Therefore, it is impossible to lay tiles on a wooden floor without installing an intermediate layer.
She must have soft base to compensate for possible floor movements. Most often, rubber or a similar material is used for this. The top has a hard surface. On it, you can correctly lay the tile on the floor without fear of possible shifts.
The technology of subsequent installation consists in performing the following actions:
- Fixing the damper base.
- Pouring concrete screed. Her minimum thickness can be 2 cm. Before laying tiles on a wooden floor, you should wait for the screed to dry. This process may take 7 to 20 days.
- Ceramic decorative elements are being installed.
The advantage of this technology is the minimum likelihood of shifts of the wooden surface. The disadvantage is the increase in floor height. If this indicator should be minimal, it is necessary to lay tiles in a different way in the bathroom, kitchen or hallway.
To remove moisture between the insulation and the floor boards, leave air gap. Its size is usually 7 to 10 mm.
Foundation preparation
Good condition
Suppose the assessment showed that everything is in order with the subfloor. Then, chipboard sheets are laid on top of it, providing for deformation gaps between the flooring surface and the wall.
- The chipboard layer is treated with a special impregnation or heated drying oil. Heat the drying oil very carefully, as it is quite flammable.
- The flooring needs to be reinforced. First of all, latex is applied. The latex layer is supposed to be thick enough. It is more convenient to do this with a wide brush. Without allowing the latex to dry completely, a paint grid is laid out on it
- When the structure is completely dry, the mesh is additionally fixed with self-tapping screws so that it fits more tightly to the floor.
- It remains to carry out additional leveling of the surface. There are several options for the mixture: simple, or own production, the main component of which is coarse sand and water in a ratio of 2:2:1. Continue immediately installation work it is impossible, since it is possible on a wooden floor only if the previously prepared surface is completely dry.
Satisfactory condition
This category includes floors in which there are no special claims to logs or draft boards, while top coat when walking, it creaks and flexes slightly. How to carry out work in this case, how to prepare the foundation? The sequence of actions is as follows:
- dismantle the old finish coating and substrate.
- it is assumed that the old base does not creak and can be left after leveling: the subfloor must be carefully lifted and the logs leveled using a level.
- wooden surfaces are impregnated with various compounds, antiseptics, fire retardants to prevent premature damage.
- when the impregnation dries, the interlag space along the entire height is filled with fine-grained expanded clay.
- lay the floor on self-tapping screws, keeping a gap of 3–9 mm between the boards. The wooden one is sealed by spreading impregnated parchment paper over the surface, after which a GVL or DSP substrate is laid. Sheets are placed in a checkerboard pattern and fixed with self-tapping screws in increments of 150–200 mm. Mandatory requirement is the presence of a gap between the flooring and the walls of about 10 mm, which is filled with mounting foam.
- the final stage is the primer. It must be dry when proceeding directly to the installation of a tiled floor on a base of wooden elements.
Bad condition
- The floor is completely dismantled and the joints between the floor and the wall are sealed. For example, you can put cement-sand screed. Before the screed hardens, apply on its surface liquid glass.
- The concrete floor is primed, and then leveled along the beacons. The alignment process is performed in a certain sequence:
- marking for beacons is carried out according to the level, laser or water. They are installed at a distance of 0.9–1.0 m from each other with a minimum indentation from the wall of 100 mm;
- beacons are attached to plaster marks;
- pour in the leveling compound.
Screed options
After the preparatory stage for the adaptation of the wooden floor for installation decorative coating start pouring the screed. It will serve as the basis for the final formation of the plane. One of the conditions is whether the minimum weight, as it can affect the strength of the plank surface.
At first sight the best option there would be a backfill of a dry screed. It is easiest to lay tiles on the floor with your own hands on it. However, one must take into account the height of the base, which is formed due to wooden flooring. Therefore, summarizing the above, we note that in the case of a wooden floor, such indicators are achieved in three ways:
- classical cement strainer. It is laid in a thin layer - only 30 mm, so that it does not overload wood flooring. The screed is poured onto a metal mesh fixed with self-tapping screws to subfloor. To reduce the likelihood of cracks during the drying process, the surface must be moistened with water from a spray bottle;
- universal glue, the main component of which is liquid glass, or polyurethane. In both cases, it has a denser structure than concrete mix. V small spaces on an adhesive base, you can put tiles on a wooden floor without first arranging a screed. In addition, he has a good indicator elasticity, and can compensate for temperature shifts in the base without damaging decorative surface. The solution can be prepared independently - for this you need purified sand, water and liquid glass. The proportions are 1:2:2;
- in rooms where the percentage of moisture is low, another option is used - DSP or GKLV. They are laid "in a row" at an angle of 30 ° to the direction of the location of the draft boards. Laying tiles on the floor in the bathroom using this technology is prohibited.
Installation can begin only after the final drying and hardening of the base. If additionally installed, it must be disabled at all stages of preparation. Including - during the laying of tiles.
Regardless of the chosen type of concrete screed around the perimeter of the room, it is necessary to install a damper tape.
How to lay tiles correctly
Installation of a tiled coating involves the implementation of processes in the following sequence:
- make surface markings
- preparing the adhesive
- lay tiles,
- rub the seams.
There are several installation methods:
- diagonally,
- scatter,
- parallel,
- with a specific pattern.
Usually, desired option are chosen before the start of installation work and, in accordance with it, mark the floor.
- To begin with, they find the center of the room: connect the middle of the opposite sides with a coated cord and draw lines. The center will be at the point where these lines intersect.
- The next step will be the direct laying of the ceramic floor. The layout is performed by taking these lines as a guide. Installation starts with right angle at their intersection. Adhesive solution, prepared according to the manufacturer's instructions, is evenly applied to small areas prepared wooden floor with an area of approximately 1 sq. m. with a spatula or a special spatula. Glue is also applied to each element of the floor separately, then it is pressed against the base with the rough side.
- Laying continues until the entire area with the applied adhesive is finished, adhering to the marking line. Not everyone has the skill to ensure the evenness of the seams, therefore, it is recommended to insert building crosses between the individual elements of the coating: two on each side. Having finished one half of the room, they move on to the second.
- Slots remain near the base of the walls, which are sealed with pieces of tile cut to size.
- The canvas is left for a day to dry and covered with a primer.
When buying ceramic flooring, be sure to read the instructions first, as some models are already primed.
- The last step is grouting. In all tile gaps evenly applied with a thin line. To do this, use a scraper, on which there is a rubber pad or spatula. In the latter case, use acute angle tool. Excess solution is removed with a damp sponge while it is still fresh, then the surface is polished dry.
Watch the video instruction for more.
Expenses
How much does work usually cost? Prices may vary, but in any case it will be more expensive than tiling on concrete. This is due to the costs that usually accompany preparatory stage. As for the final stage itself - directly laying the tiles, its price can also vary. The cost depends both on the material used and on the installation method. The most expensive floor is lined with a pattern, or from an exotic type of material.
About the features of laying in rooms with high humidity can be found in the video.
In construction, one of the issues may be the use of materials with different properties together. Many people have doubts about how to lay the tiles on their own on a wooden floor and whether this can be done. When working with your own hands, it is important to carefully study all the pitfalls of the process so that there are no problems during the construction or operation of the house. If you choose the right materials and stack them in accordance with the technology, you can avoid a lot of trouble.
When the need arises
many buildings old building suggest the presence of wooden floors. In addition, when building houses of the following categories, it will be necessary to lay ceramics on a wooden base:
- frame;
- frame-panel;
- timber;
- log.
In all these cases, the design of the house assumes the presence wooden floors, therefore, when using ceramic tiles as a finishing material, it is required to lay it correctly.
The most important question in this case: is it possible to lay tiles on a wooden floor. Laying is possible, you just need to take into account some features of the base. The main rooms in the house where you want to put ceramics are:
- bathrooms;
- bathroom facilities;
- kitchens;
- halls;
- corridors;
- hallways;
- utility rooms (for example, laundry).
In all these cases the best option, except for laying the tiles with your own hands, you can’t find it. Since it is this material that has high strength, wear resistance, moisture resistance and ease of cleaning.
Preparatory stage
Before you start laying tiles on a wooden floor, you need to conduct a thorough inspection of the base and make sure it is stable. The need is due to the following factors:
Scheme of replacing a wooden floor before laying tiles - Different deformative abilities of ceramics and wood. In the case of wood, some bends and deflections are possible: wood will easily adapt to minor deformations due to its own flexibility. Ceramic is a hard material that needs a hard base. If you lay it on an unstable base, then large-format products floor tiles will crack. The only way out is to replace floor covering in the house and strengthening the base. But it will be right to prevent this and make sure that the wooden floor or ceiling is stable even before work begins.
- If a small-format tile is used, with an unsatisfactory quality of the base, it is not he who gives cracks, but cement joints. This problem is also not pleasant, since dirt accumulates in cracks and crevices, they worsen appearance coatings. In the bathroom, this is added to the ingress of moisture into the cracks. With a large instability of the base, the floors in the house become uneven, which adds to the problems during operation.
It is important to remember that tile has a fairly large mass. Laying tiles on a wooden floor creates an additional load on the floors and the draft structure. A thorough visual inspection should reveal:
- sagging floorboards in the bathroom and other rooms in which it is planned to lay tiles with your own hands;
- floor creak;
- damage by fungus, mold or other organisms;
- instability of all or individual elements systems;
- loose fasteners.
If at least one of these problems is identified, the floor needs to be repaired, strengthened or rebuilt. In some cases effective way will become complete disassembly wooden floor and pouring cement screed. This is true for old houses with wooden floors. If we are talking about a house with timber floors, the question of reinforcement may arise load-bearing structures.
Depending on the condition of the floor, choose the way to perform the work on laying ceramic tiles.
Good condition of the base
If we are talking about a new building or with the preservation of wooden floors and ceilings, you can do the work in the following order:
- Preparation of a wooden floor under a tile. Everything first wooden elements treated with antiseptics. These compounds will prevent wood damage by mold, fungus and harmful microorganisms. Processing is required. Flame retardants can also be used as additional protection for wood. These substances increase the resistance of the material to fire. The event is not mandatory when building a house with your own hands, it is held at the request of the future owner. The next step before laying tiles in the bathroom, bathroom or kitchen (wet rooms) is a layer of waterproofing. The bathroom may experience various leaks that can lead to flooding or damage. wooden structures. Roofing material, linocrom, hydroisol, polyvinyl chloride (PVC) film are used as protective materials.
- After completion of the preparation, gypsum fiber sheets are placed on the floor and fixed with self-tapping screws. It is important to choose a moisture-resistant material, this is especially true for rooms with wet processes (bathrooms, bathrooms, kitchens). Laying is carried out staggered, which means that there are no extended joints in any direction. Before laying tiles in a bathroom or other rooms, gypsum fiber sheets are fixed to the base with self-tapping screws. In this case, the fastener pitch is 15 cm. At the joints, the material is fastened with glue. Further, to ensure ventilation, holes are drilled in arbitrary places, after which the joints are primed. When the primer dries, glue for ceramic tiles is applied to the gypsum fiber. The composition must be suitable for working with drywall.
- Lay tiles. Work should begin with the lightest corner of the bathroom or other room. Crosses are used to create seams. To level the surface and remove excess glue from under the tile, you will need a special rubber hammer.
After the solution has dried, the crosses are taken out and the joints are grouted.
The joists are in good condition, but the flooring is damaged
If the floorboards in the bathroom, bathroom or kitchen are rotten, they will need to be replaced. Do it in the following order:
- Dismantling of old flooring and floor boards.
- Checking the integrity of the lag, the quality of their fastening, evenness of laying.
- If the logs are in good condition, proceed to the preparation of wood. For this, it is processed protective compounds such as antiseptics or flame retardants.
- Install waterproofing. Materials that can be used are indicated in the previous paragraph. The layer is fixed between the lags.
- If necessary, provide for laying thermal insulation between the bars. You can use mineral wool (mats or slabs), polystyrene foam, polystyrene foam, polyurethane foam, expanded clay.
- Attach new floor boards. Fastening is carried out on self-tapping screws. In this case, it is necessary to provide gaps between the boards of 5-10 mm. They are needed so that the boards do not lead when the wood is deformed.
- After the work is performed in the same way as in the previous case, starting from point 2.
Poor condition of the floor
If the structure is badly damaged, there are two scenarios:
- complete replacement of the wooden floor (flooring and log);
- removal of the floor and pouring concrete screed.
The second option is best suited for houses with reinforced concrete floors. The first is considered in the case of wooden buildings. A screed is preferable, because over time such floors do not bring problems.
As the wood ages, defects such as creaking, rotting, and sagging will reappear. But if tiles are laid on the flooring, it is not easy to remove them, serious repairs will be required with time-consuming removal of the flooring.
After replacing the base with a wooden one, work is carried out as if the floor is in good condition, starting from point 2. If a decision is made to pour the screed, the installation is carried out according to the appropriate technology.
Wood cladding may raise some doubts, however, there is a certain laying technology in this way. Expert advice will take into account all important points in the process of installation and carry out repairs in the room with high quality.
1. Can I tile on the wooden floor in the bathroom?
Most often, this issue worries those who make repairs in private houses and cottages. In such buildings, wood serves as the basis for cladding. Facing in this case is acceptable, but it is worth assessing the condition of the surface and performing certain work on the eve of installation.
Further actions depend on the preliminary inspection of the base:
- If the surface is in good condition, in this case, minor processing is carried out and laying can begin;
- In the presence of serious flaws, installation is unacceptable. First you need to repair the base by replacing the necessary parts.
Calculate the amount of material required for flooring the room, while taking into account the specific layout option (herringbone, offset, diagonal, rows, etc.).
When repairing with your own hands, it is advisable to choose the simplest installation method, for example, cladding in rows. With a diagonal layout direction, the tile consumption will increase significantly, since it will be necessary to trim.
2. Preparation of the base for facing
When thinking about how to lay tiles on a wooden floor, you should first treat the surface of the base. Check the surface carefully before tiling. The covering can be made of a board, or a laminate.
The floor structure consists of rough level boards, which are fixed on wooden logs.
Old paint can be removed using different methods:
. mechanical way.
The purpose of this method is to apply grinder, or electric drill with a nozzle in the form sandpaper. Grit No. 40 is suitable for primary processing, No. 100 or No. 80 is recommended to complete grinding. The main advantage of mechanical action is the possibility of cleaning large enough areas.
. Thermal way.
For processing, you will need a high-power hair dryer that can warm the air up to + 300 .. + 600 degrees. It is necessary to keep the device at a distance of 250-500 mm from the floor, after heating, the paint is removed in small parts, using a scraper or a metal spatula during operation.
Experts advise purchasing an industrial hair dryer with a special scraper, so you can combine the process of heating and cleaning wood from paint.
. Method of chemical influence.
Various solvents are suitable for this method. Chemical composition impregnate the paint, applying it with a spatula or brush, depending on the consistency of the substance. The saturation time is 10-30 minutes, after which the paint layer softens and can be easily removed.
Organizing the draft floor, logs are installed on top of the ceilings. Then parchment (waterproofing) is laid, the construction is completed with sheets of chipboard, plasterboard or plywood. Keep track of the evenness of the coating, the logs must be mounted according to the level.
Before laying the material, sheets of chipboard, plywood or GKLV must be treated with drying oil of warm temperature, or with another composition with protective properties. The device can be started immediately after the impregnation has dried.
Preparation of finishing material
Immersion in water will help to force the air out of the tile, 10-20 minutes is enough. If on outside stains appear on the tiles, in which case a slight moistening of the surface from the inside is sufficient.
3. Do I need a screed?
Before laying, you should check the coating and assess how even it is using a level. If there are significant deviations, it is necessary to make a screed before facing.
What alignment methods are there?
- Wet screed . Suitable for those cases when it is necessary to increase the strength characteristics of the floor. At the same time, a gap is organized around the perimeter of the room, taking into account possible deformation. This condition allows the base to move without destroying the mounted coating;
- Dry screed . This method the most popular, because it allows you to create not only a flat, but also a reliable floor with a high bearing capacity;
- Leveling with GKLV sheets is considered the easiest option. . First of all, carefully examine the condition of the wood floor. Those bars that have rotted should be replaced with new elements. Next, drywall is installed, the sheets are fixed with polyurethane glue, the joints are treated with sealant. You should also impregnate the sheets with a primer mixture.
4. Laying tiles
The main steps for laying tiles on a wooden floor:
- On the eve of the floor cladding, you need to determine the location of the parts. Center is measured big wall and a line is fixed on the floor, usually it is perpendicular. Similar actions are also carried out for a short wall.
- The resulting lines at the point of intersection indicate the center of the room if the room is a rectangular shape. Organize the most interesting option layouts, avoiding cutting tiles along the walls to the maximum.
The floor around the bathroom is advised to be tiled symmetrically.
- The composition of the glue is treated with 1 sq.m of the base in one of the corners measured by the center of the room. In order to conveniently distribute the glue, it is better to use a spatula or spatula.
- Under the condition of a flat surface (differences in height no more than 3 mm), glue consumption is minimized. In this case, it is enough that the layer is less than 5 mm, because the adhesive composition only serves to adhere the floor and tiles. To level the surface, there is a special adhesive on sale that can eliminate protrusions (up to 30 mm). Also, the consumption of glue depends on the thickness of the tile.
It is not necessary to knead the entire volume of glue at once, because the laying takes a long time. The composition should be gradually diluted, as needed.
- You need to create pressure on the tile, then press it to the base. After that, you should continue laying, heading along the marked markings. Cover the entire area of the floor treated with glue.
- The layout is directed from the central point to the walls, while certain gaps between the tiles must be observed. After half of the floor surface in the bathroom is filled with tiles, the rest is also tiled. Next, you need to wait for the complete drying of the adhesive composition.
The individual elements must be on the same level. If necessary, you can add a layer of glue.
- We supplement the space between the wall and the laid material with undercuts. In order to accurately cut off some details of the finishing material, it is better to use a construction cutter.
Sometimes, when laying flooring, it is necessary to go around an object in the bathroom. In this case, use the exact contour by cutting it with a power saw.
- After the glue becomes solid, the tiles are impregnated with a primer.
There are collections of floor tiles in which the elements are coated with a primer. This information is specified on the packaging.
- A scraper with a rubber tip is able to fill all the gaps between the elements with a solution. Excess solution can be removed with a dampened sponge, on the eve of drying;
- If the bathtub is located close to a lined wall, the gap between the wall and the bathtub must be sealed to ensure tightness. A gap of less than 5 mm can be filled with a tiled fugue or moisture-resistant grout.
Ceramic or tile as a covering for walls and floors is very popular. This finish is beautiful, durable, easy to wash. Laying tiles is not difficult, with some skills you can do it yourself. Especially common is the tiling of domestic premises, kitchens, bathrooms, that is, those places where maintaining cleanliness is especially important.
Laying tiles with your own hands will cost much less than the work of a master.
Problems, on a cement-concrete base, in the presence of modern adhesives, grouts, laying tools, do not exist.
What do you recommend to owners? wooden houses Deciding to ceramic tile your wood floor or tile your bathroom walls?
Why is it difficult to lay tiles on wood?
The question of whether it is possible to reliably lay tiles on a wooden base causes a lot of controversy among specialists and amateurs. The fact is that wood is a living material, under the influence of atmospheric moisture or gravity, the wooden coating slightly changes its size, deforms, and then, when the action of deforming factors ceases, returns to its original form.
If you lay a tile, for example, directly on the floor boards, then it will surely burst or rebound over time, unable to withstand constant, albeit small, stretching and compression. But there is a way out. Craftsmen have developed several rules for laying tiles on wooden surfaces with minimal risk. These rules take into account different types of tiles and different surfaces.
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How to lay tiles on a wooden floor?
- Do not lay ceramic tiles on a new wooden floor. This process can be carried out only after 2-3 years, when the intensive shrinkage of wooden structures ends.
- To prepare the base for ceramic tiles, you need to create a flat, almost motionless surface. This can be achieved various methods, depending on which floor is available. If the boards are deformed, and the underground space is small, then it is better to remove the old boards, fill the gaps between the lags with insulation and make a high-quality cement-concrete screed.
- If this option is not suitable, you need to revise the wooden structures, replace the destroyed logs and boards and impregnate all the wood special tool from decay. Then, sheets of moisture-resistant plywood, chipboard, OSB are laid on top of the old floor covering. They are attached to the old boards with self-tapping screws. In order for the surface to be the same in height, the laying of sheets is constantly controlled using a level, if necessary, enclose wooden slats. The joints between the sheets are insulated with silicone sealant.
- A so-called technological gap is left between the walls and the new coating. Wood-shaving materials, although to a lesser extent than boards, swell with increasing air humidity, so the base for the tiles is made “floating”, and after laying, the gap is closed with a plinth.
- Some experts advise making the base for tiles not from wood chip products, but from sheets. moisture resistant drywall or its varieties of gypsum fiber boards. This material is more environmentally friendly, absolutely not subject to deformation and decay.
- A novelty in the construction industry are polymer floor leveling compounds. They are also used to create a base for ceramic tiles. As indicated in the instructions, they can also be used on wooden surfaces. Only if you are going to make a leveling layer of more than 10 mm, a plastic reinforcing mesh should be laid on the floor.
- After preparing the base, it is sanded if necessary, treated with a primer compatible with tile adhesive, and let dry. Then the tiles are glued on. Moreover, most experts advise using a special polyurethane two-component adhesive composition, which is characterized by elasticity.
