What can you make an axe. How to make a good ax handle for an ax - step by step instructions and drawings

An ax is a universal tool that you may need in the country, on a hike in the forest or just on vacation near the river, in everyday life for household purposes. Despite its simple design, this device has many purposes of use and differs in methods and quality of manufacture.

Main characteristics

All types of axes are divided into three main groups:

axes-cleavers;
for felling in the forest;
universal tools for construction and household purposes.

Within each selected group, there are varieties that are determined by the purpose and characteristics constituent parts. Accounting the most important parameters will help you decide which ax is better to choose. It is worth noting the fact that in the summer cottage you simply cannot do without an ax!

Weight parameters

The possibility of its use in wood processing depends on how heavy the tool is. The minimum value is considered to be a mass of 0.9 kg. Lighter models are used only for a limited range of household and household purposes when finishing small workpieces, such as sharpening wedges.

For standard work with wood you will need a tool of 0.9-1.7 kg. It will be effective both when chopping medium thickness wood, and when carrying out construction works. Heavier splitters weighing 2.2-2.5 kg are used to split large firewood. They have a longer handle.

Blade shape and sharpening

In practice, axes with three types of butt are used:

wide, designed for felling;
medium, having a universal purpose;
narrow - used when carrying out neat carpentry work.

Features of the blade shape can be estimated from the photo of the ax. Straight sharpening allows you to deliver high-quality chopping blows, but curved sharpening is suitable for both chopping and stabbing movements. For example, a rounded blade small size It is oriented towards greater penetration into the tree and cutting of fibers in the transverse direction.

With a sharpening angle of up to 40 degrees, an increased penetration into the workpiece is provided, although the blunting rate will be higher. In cleavers, the degree of sharpening at different edges of the blade will vary.

blade material

For carpentry axes, the blade is made by stamping low-carbon steel. Greater tool strength for lumberjacks is provided by forging steel U7 and 60G.

It should be remembered that the use of mild steel leads to the fact that the tool begins to dull quickly. Blades made of hard or hardened steel are prone to chipping.

Making an ax handle

The length of the handle depends on the purpose of the tool. The most comfortable indicator is 50-70 cm. But we must remember that the scope and force of impact depend on the length. Therefore, for heavier work, a tool larger than 70 cm is required.

The handle for an ax can be metal, including with a special rubber pad. It's over solid construction, but it has a big drawback - it dampens vibration poorly.

The impact force, together with the resistance of the workpiece, is absorbed by the ax handle. Therefore, it is recommended to use wood for its manufacture, in particular birch. But cheaper and more affordable pine dampens vibration much worse.

For lumberjacks, a tool with an oak handle is suitable. The handle itself should be comfortable, without knots and chips. At the end of the ax handle, a thickening and a hole for fastening are made.

Varieties of axes

Depending on the purpose and purpose of use, you can choose optimal design tool. Various types of axes are on sale.

Tourist

This is a lighter and more compact tool that can have a rounded blade. It is sharp and can be used as a knife. Handle length up to 50 cm. Complete with protective cover.

Such an ax is quite expensive, it cannot be used for cutting, rust often appears. Popular brands include Geter Gator II and Expedition HB-040.

Household and catering

In everyday life or at catering establishments, axes are used for chopping meat or bones. The design is distinguished by a wide blade made of durable steel with sharpening at an angle. This is a heavy and durable model.

The big disadvantage is the need to use physical strength for work. Also, a wooden ax can dry out. Known products "Myasorub" and "Labor" VACHA S901.

for firewood

Catalog of axes of this category with best quality includes TUTAHI, KRAFTOOL Rhine and Universal.

For these purposes, models with a hardened steel blade with a sharpening of 40-60 degrees and a wooden ax handle are used. This ensures ease and efficiency in operation.

Bilateral

This tool has two identical blades made of high carbon steel, providing excellent balance. The sharpening angle can be different, and the ax handle can be interchangeable.

However, this is a traumatic and heavy construction, which excludes the possibility of using it as a percussion instrument. Experts recommend models such as SOG F12 and OCHSENKOPF.

For logging

Large ax with a long handle for a strong blow. Has a rounded blade. The specialization of the tool is narrow, it is used only for its intended purpose. Lumberjacks can use the HULKAFORS, SCANDINAVIAN FOREST AX or WETTERLINGS AMERICAN FOREST AX brands.

Carpenter

This is a well balanced tool with a sharp blade and a comfortable grip. You will not be able to use it for cutting, and after purchasing the product, you need to select the required sharpening characteristic.

You can choose for this purpose Gardena 1000A 08714-48.000.00 or Wetterlings Hjartum Carpenter’s Axe. The Izhevsk ax is also popular.

Forged

The highest quality, strongest and most durable products. A forged ax is most often made according to individual orders. The brands "Taiga" and products from the workshop "Phoenix" are popular.

Cleaver

This ax has an elongated handle, a steel blade with a sharpening of 40-60 degrees. This is a highly specialized tool that has good balance. It is applied to processing of thick and dense breeds of a tree. Experts recommend VIPUKIRVES or Council Tool Hudson Bay Ax for use.

Dachny

Axes "DACHNIK" standart SZAN330, T-03-1 or VOREL 33107 will help solve domestic problems in the suburban area. Such models are suitable for chopping firewood, used when cutting logs.

Differ in multifunctionality, an edge from strong steel and wooden handle, which, however, may dry out after 5 years.

Making an ax with your own hands

If you are interested in the question of how to make an ax, then remember that you will not be able to make a blade from scratch on your own. You can only give an ordinary blade desired shape by processing with a grinder or an emery wheel.

But the ax is quite capable of making. For this you need:

pick up a workpiece with a diameter of more than 120 mm and a length of 200 mm more than the planned handle;
dry for several months at a temperature of 22-24 degrees and a humidity of 15%;
using an ax or a large knife, remove the excess part of the wood in accordance with the outlined contour;
carry out processing with a chisel and a hammer.

Now it is important to learn how to plant an ax correctly. Do this with gauze and epoxy resin. The presence of a wedge provides better strength. After that, grinding is carried out, the ax handle is varnished. Sharpening is done on the machine or manually.

The ax is useful assistant and in the country, and on a hike and when working in the forest. It is only necessary to choose the right model, focusing on the required characteristics and workmanship of a particular instance.

Ax photo

In every country house there are a number of necessary tools for various works. An ax is required to build a house, chop wood or butcher meat. You can buy it at the store or make your own. The purchased tool may be inconvenient or unreliable, and this is not safe. The tool, made by hand, is particularly convenient and reliable. Before you make an ax handle with your own hands at home, you need to know what an ax looks like, what parts it consists of, and decide on its purpose.

The tool is usually classified according to the type of handle.

In addition to the main axes, there are tools designed for special work. This includes: a cleaver, carpentry, large carpentry, sculptural ax, as well as figured tools and an ax for concave surfaces.

Self-made ax

Components of an ax: an ax handle, a metal sheet and wedges. How easy and convenient it will be to work with the tool depends on the length and shape of its handle, called an ax handle. Let's see how to do it right and right size. To do this, you need to select the material and extrude the workpiece according to the template.

homemade product impregnate protective agent, this will help protect the ax from rotting. Impregnation is done in several layers of drying oil or linseed oil. Each subsequent layer must be completely saturated. Coating products with varnishes and paints is not recommended. They will give the handle a sliding effect, and the ax will constantly begin to slip during operation. Sometimes a bright dye is added to the impregnation. The handle of the tool acquires a bright color, which is good when work is carried out in overgrown areas. The ax will always be visible and will not be lost.

Choosing a metal nozzle

It is impossible to forge metal tightly with your own hands, so they buy it at a hardware store. Tips for choosing a stabbing part:

A high-quality blade should be solid, without nicks, chips and dents.
Metal is marked according to GOST.
The ends of the butt should be perpendicular to the blade.
The eyelet must be cone-shaped.

Attachment of an ax on an ax handle

The process is carried out in several stages, such as fitting, planting and wedging.

You can eliminate the cracks that occur when fitting a metal sheet using epoxy resin. It is poured into the cuts before driving the wedges. The resin will dry in a day. And only then you can saw off the protruding part.

Blade sharpening and hardening

Performance tools depend on a sharp blade. Therefore, you need to know how to sharpen an ax correctly. For each type of work, its own blade processing angle is selected.

Sharpening is done on an electric grinding wheel, smoothly moving the blade along the circle at an angle of 45 degrees. To quality cutting edge has not deteriorated, the blade must not be allowed to overheat. To do this, a container with water is installed near the grinder. The blade is periodically lowered into it for cooling. At the end of the work, the blade is polished. To do this, use a whetstone or sandpaper.

Metal sheet made from soft material will need to be sharpened frequently. To avoid this, you can harden the ax. This will require gas-burner, oil and water. The blade is heated on gas until a red color appears. Then it is dipped in oil and cold water. Everyone repeats 3 times.

An ax is a tool necessary for any country farm. It is useful when chopping firewood, and when building a house, and when cutting game. Unfortunately, not all axes on the market are reliable and convenient. Some of them are even dangerous! Therefore, if you have a need for "clumsy" work, you can try to make quality tool with your own hands. We will now tell you how to make an ax.

Components of an ax: metal sheet, ax handle and wedge

An ax handle is a tool handle, the convenience of the work performed depends on its length and shape. A straight stick with a round section is not the best option. The hand, holding such a tool, experiences increased stress and quickly gets tired. Much more practical is a curved ax with a section in the form of an oval with straight sections. The tail section is desirable to expand and bend down. Then, with strong blows, a reliable holding of the ax handle in the hands will be ensured.

Ax scheme: 1 - butt, 2.9 - wedges, 3 - blade, 4 - toe, 5 - chamfer, 6 - heel, 7 - beard, 8 - ax handle, 10 - sharpening

The process of making an ax looks like this:

1. Material preparation

Durable ax handles are obtained from oak, birch, maple, ash.

Wood for ax handles is traditionally harvested in autumn, before frost. Barked logs are laid in the attic, in a dry and dark place to dry. The blanks must lie in storage for less than a year. Some experts recommend even longer drying - 5-7 years.

However, if your ax handle is broken, but you urgently need to chop logs, then fresh wood can also be used. This is a temporary option, since after drying the wood will in any case decrease in volume and the handle will begin to “dangle” in the eye.

2. Cutting the template

A cardboard template is necessary for transferring the contours of the projected ax handle to the wood surface and manufacturing a tool with the desired dimensions. As a sample, you can use a ready-made ax with which it is convenient for you to work. The handle of the "standard" is circled with a pencil on a sheet of cardboard, cut out and a template is obtained.

3. Making a blank bar

From the dried chock, strictly along the fibers, a bar is squeezed out - a blank for the ax handle. The length of the bar should be approximately 100 mm longer than the intended size. finished product. The width of the blank in the front (which is mounted on the ax blade) should exceed the width of the metal eye by 2-3 mm.

A template is applied to the bar on both sides, its contours are transferred to the wood. In this case, the template is positioned so that an allowance of 10 mm remains from the front of the bar, and 90 mm at the end (in the tail section). The allowance in the shank serves to prevent splitting of the handle when fitting the metal sheet. It cuts off after final assembly.

4. Extrusion of an ax handle

In order to finally bring the ax handle to the right sizes, top and bottom of the bar make transverse cuts. Their depth should not reach the intended contours of the ax handle by 2 mm. Excess wood, along the cuts, is chipped off with a chisel. Finally, up to the contour lines, the material is cut with a rasp. A file (bastard or rasp) rounds bends, corners, transitions. final grinding carry out sandpaper.

5. Impregnation with a waterproof compound

The best means for wood impregnation - drying oil and linseed oil. The hatchet is coated with any of these oils. After it dries, apply the next layer. This is done several times until the oil stops being absorbed.

The hatchet should not be slippery, so cover it with varnishes and oil paints Not recommended. You can mix a small amount of dye into the drying oil, for example, orange, red or yellow. An ax with a bright handle will be clearly visible in the grass and will not get lost.

About how to make a high-quality ax handle for an ax in field conditions, but with all the rules, see below:

Choice of metal sheet and ax head

It is almost impossible to make a metal sheet with an eyelet at home, so you will have to buy it ready-made. When buying, pay attention to:

steel quality - ideally, the product is marked with the GOST badge, and not TU or OST;
blade - should be smooth, without dents, cracks, bends;
eye shape - in the form of a cone;
butt ends - should be perpendicular to the blade.

At the end of the ax handle, two axial lines are drawn - longitudinal and perpendicular to it. A groove is cut along the contour of the longitudinal line to the depth of the eyelet - this cut will be necessary for wedging the ax handle. Then a butt is attached to the end and the contours of the eye are outlined, focusing on the center lines. With a knife, an ax or a planer, the landing part of the ax handle is cut off, giving it the shape of an eye. Moreover, this is done in such a way that the ax protrudes beyond the eye by about 1 cm.

With the help of hammer blows, an ax is planted on an ax handle. Do this carefully so that the wood does not crack. After the butt goes beyond the boundaries of the butt, check the strength of the fit of the blade - it should sit tight, not slip off.

Attaching an ax to an ax handle: a - fitting, b - attachment, c - wedging; 1 - ax, 2 - ax handle, 3 - wedge

Wedging the ax - a guarantee of a firm fit

Wedging serves to enhance the reliability of fastening the metal part of the ax to the ax handle. The safety of working with this tool depends on this. Wedging is carried out by driving a wedge made of hardwood (oak, walnut, yew, etc.) into the end part of the ax handle. Accordingly, the volume of the landing part of the ax handle increases and “tightly” sits down in the eye.

For the manufacture of a wedge, a wooden, well-dried plank about 5-10 mm thick is used. The working part of the wedge is equal to the depth of cut. Using a rasp, the wedge is cut so that its sides are parallel to each other. Only the very end is machined with a double-sided chamfer. The thickness of the wedge near the chamfer should exceed the width of the cut by 1 mm, at the end of the working part - by 2 mm.

Scheme of the wedge used for wedging an ax handle

To drive a wedge, the ax is placed vertically on a hard surface (table, anvil, etc.). With a chisel, the groove of the cut is expanded, a wedge is installed and hammered into it. Before driving, you can lubricate the wedge with glue (without a rubber component) - to prevent it from being pushed out of the cut and a more secure fit.

Groove extensions for easier wedge driving

Wedging an ax with one wedge is a popular and reliable option

Wedging with one wedge is not the only possible variant. Some masters prefer to use large quantity wedges, for example, two or five. In the latter case, the first wedge is driven into the longitudinal groove at the end of the ax handle (as when wedging with one wedge), and then the remaining four are driven in perpendicular to the first. How to put an ax on an ax handle, and then wedging is shown in detail in the video plot:

Proper technology for sharpening an ax blade

A do-it-yourself ax blade will perform its function only if the sharpening angle and bevel width are maintained correctly.

The sharpening angle affects the convenience of the ax and the degree of its functionality. If you plan to cut wet, freshly cut wood, then the sharpening angle should be approximately 20 °. If dry trees, then 25-30 °.

The width of the bevel is also very important, but in ready-made blades, change it to the usual home master not under power. However, there is a way out: grind off the ax blade with a double “descent”. The first corner is turned at 15°, the second at 25° (average value).

Ax sharpening: a - sharpening angle, b - chamfer width (should exceed the thickness of the blade by 2.5-3 times)

The ax is sharpened on an electric grinder. At the same time, they make sure that the blade does not overheat much - this leads to a deterioration in hardness near the cutting edge. Therefore, taking up the sharpening process, you should put a container of water next to the grinder to cool the metal. It is advisable to immerse the blade in water after each pass along the circle.

It is necessary to reduce the runout of the grinding wheel to a minimum by regularly dressing with special cutters. When sharpening, hold the ax so that the blade is directed towards the rotation of the electric grinder. The butt is held at 45 °. The blade is sharpened by smoothly moving the ax along the circle. The sharpening angle is carefully sharpened, the chamfer is polished.

Sharpening an ax on an electric grinder allows you to quickly get a sharp blade

Final sharpening ax (grinding) is carried out using a whetstone, regularly wetted with water. Instead of a bar, you can use a piece of plywood glued with sandpaper. Remember that working with a sharp ax is a pleasure, while a blunt tool will force you to put in more effort, leading to quick fatigue.

The result of activity - whether it is economic or industrial - depends not only on the perfection and quality of the tool used, but last but not least, on how convenient it is for a particular person. As for the handle of the purchased ax, it is often it that becomes the source of a number of problems - intense blunting of the cutting edge, regularly flying piercing part, rapid fatigue, and so on.

Choice of wood

The fact that not every breed is suitable for making an ax handle is understandable. It is advisable to focus on ash, oak, maple, hornbeam, acacia, mountain ash (necessarily old), beech and even apple trees. But the best option nevertheless, a birch is considered, namely, the root part of a tree or growths on its trunk. Such wood is characterized by maximum density. Consequently, the durability of the ax handle is guaranteed.

It is better to harvest lumber in late autumn. At this time, the movement of juices practically stops, which means that the wood is relatively “dehydrated”.

Extract of samples

Even experienced master the first time you may not make a quality ax handle. Therefore, it is necessary to stock up on several blanks for the ax handle. Opinions on the timing of their storage before processing differ, but everyone agrees on one thing - drying should be done for at least 3-4 years. Moreover, it cannot be accelerated artificially. The process should proceed naturally, and it is advisable to choose a dark and dry place for storing raw materials.

It is pointless to use “fresh” wood on the ax handle. As a result of the shrinkage of the material, it will begin to deform, which means that the handle will have to be constantly wedged, otherwise the metal will fly off. An undried tree is used only as a last resort, as an exception to the rule, in case of an urgent need to make an ax handle, at least for a while.

Template preparation

A good ax handle should have a strictly defined shape. Trying to stand it "by eye" is a hopeless business. The same applies to linear dimensions - they should be as close as possible to the recommended values.

Axes have different purposes. As a rule, a good owner has at least two of them. Cleaver and carpenter - a must. The dimensions and shape of the ax handle for each are clearly visible in the figure.

What to consider:

The "tail" is made somewhat larger in cross section than the gripping part. This ensures that the ax will not break out of the hands of the master during the work.
Since we all have different heights, arm lengths, then linear parameters ax handles are not standard. They vary within certain limits. First of all, this refers to its length (in cm). For a cleaver - from 750 to 950, for carpentry tools - about 500 (± 50). But it is necessary to leave the so-called allowance, first of all, from the side of the butt attachment (8-10 cm is enough). After it is tightly planted on the ax handle, without splitting the tree, it is easy to cut off the excess.

If the household has an ax that is convenient in all respects, then it is enough to transfer the contours of its handle to a sheet of cardboard and cut out a template using them.

Making an ax handle

With a sample, this is easy to do. The main stages of work are as follows:

workpiece marking;
sampling of excess wood (electronic / jigsaw, carpenter's knife, etc.);
finishing, polishing of the ax handle.

You should not rush to fine-tune the "to size" of the fixing part. In the process of processing the ax handle, you need to constantly monitor how tightly it is fitted to the eye of the butt. Even a small “shat” is undesirable, since such a handle will have to be wedged immediately. Given the specifics of the use of the tool, it will not last long. Therefore, grinding the ax handle should alternate with its regular fitting in place and fitting within the required limits, with a small margin (about 2 mm). The work is painstaking, requiring time and accuracy, but the result is worth it.
When processing a workpiece for an ax handle, it is undesirable to use files. Such a tool loosens the tree, so it is unlikely that it will be possible to accurately maintain the dimensions - you will have to constantly remove burrs, which means choosing wood. For fine finish it is more correct to use a sharp knife, glass fragments, sandpaper with different sizes grains. The recommended direction of stripping and grinding is along the grain.
It is necessary to choose the right angle of the butt nozzle. For universal tool used for economic purposes, 75º is enough, a cleaver - about 85 ± 50. This is also taken into account in the final design of the fixing part of the ax handle.

Ax wood protection

Every tree is prone to rotting to some extent. For the ax handle linen and drying oil. It is impossible to use varnishes and paints to protect the material from moisture. Otherwise, it is not a fact that the pen will not systematically slip out of your hands. The consequences are known.

The application of the compositions on the handle is carried out in several steps, while each layer should dry well.

Experienced craftsmen mix bright color dyes into drying oil or oil. It is very useful if you have to work with an ax in dense bushes, in areas with tall grass. A tool with a handle that is clearly visible will definitely not be lost.

Ready-made ax handles are available for sale. If a decision is made to purchase a pen, and not waste time preparing wood and independent production, it is advisable to have it with you approximate dimensions(shown in the picture above). And choose the workpiece, focusing on them. At home, it remains only to slightly adjust the ax handle “for yourself”.

The ax is actually very important tool. Of course, if you are a real carpenter, then you must definitely know how to make an ax that is perfect for certain jobs. Professional master carpenters usually use several axes at once. However, this species the tool is also necessary for people living outside the city, or just city residents who occasionally travel to their summer cottages. After all, you need to heat the bath with firewood, and you can chop them only with the help of an ax. And so that no misunderstandings arise in the process, and the tool does not let you down, you should know about all the intricacies of how to make an ax with your own hands, as well as how to prepare it for work. The ax itself can be completely different in shape. But you should properly mount the ax, wedged, and it is also necessary to sharpen at a certain angle.

The choice of the piercing part of the ax

When you are faced with a choice, in the process of acquiring a stabbing part, be sure to pay attention to the metal from which it is made. There must be an inscription GOST, confirming the implementation in accordance with the norms and requirements. You should be alert if you see a sign like: OST, MRTU, TU. In this case, the metal production technology could be changed by the manufacturer. If we talk about choosing a good Soviet ax, then it is better to buy it on the regular market.

You can check the quality of the ax the old fashioned way by striking the blade of one against the blade of the other. If one of the products is made of poor quality, then it is on it that the impact marks will remain. Also, if you hang the ax, you can knock on it and listen to the sound. It will be characteristic.

Pay attention to the fact that if the blade is good, there should be no dents or flaws; the eye must be cone-shaped; also, the eye and the blade must be coaxial; and also there must be at least a small thickness of the butt, and its ends must be perpendicular to the blade.

If you could not find a product that would meet all standards. Do good ax you can on your own. Even if some misunderstandings are found in the purchased product over time, they can be eliminated by sharpening the burrs, boring the eyes, and giving the butt a symmetrical shape.

Select a workpiece. Make an ax handle

Based on your height and strength, you should choose the length of the ax handle. The quality of the wood is also very important. For example, for lightweight products, up to one kg in weight, the length of the handles is 40-60 cm. If we talk about a heavy ax - up to one and a half kilograms in weight, the length of the handle will be 55-65 cm.

Approach the question of how to do wooden ax, should be correct. For example, not every tree is suitable for its handle. Most suitable options- the root part of the birch, as well as its outgrowths; maple or oak, ash and other types of wood. It is very important to dry the preparations well, and always in natural conditions and for a considerable time.

You select the tool template in advance, and your template should be outlined on the workpiece. The end part of the handle should be thickened so that the master can slow down with his hand if the ax slips out. Excess wood (outside the outline) should be removed with a knife, an ax with a perfectly sharpened blade, or other similar tools. After that, you need to make sure that the actions are correct. Put the ax on the ax handle for fitting, using a mallet. Make sure these parts fit very snugly together. After that, you can proceed to further cleaning. To scrape, you should use glass, and to grind - fine-grained sandpaper. Knowing how to make an ax out of wood is half the battle. But that's not all.

"Landing" an ax on the handle

This process can be done, for example, in this way:

The top of the ax handle is adjusted in accordance with the eyelet. Unnecessary wood should be removed with a knife.

The hatchet should be placed horizontally on a flat hard surface, and the ax should be placed on top. On the handle, you need to mark with a pencil the place to which it needs to be planted. Dividing the segment in two, you should put a second mark.

Use a vise to clamp the ax so that the wider end is up. A hacksaw for metal should be cut to the 2nd mark directly under the wedge.

The wedge can be from the store, and also made from wood by hand. Its thickness can be 5-10 mm, the length is the same as the depth of cut, the width is equal to the eye of an ax.

You need to put a board on the table, and put an ax on it, upside down. The ax should be put on the handle, tapping it on the board. Next, turn over and knock with the handle, in the process of planting. So turn over and tap should be several times in a row. As a result, the ax should go into the eye.

After that, the ax handle must be placed vertically, and a wedge should be inserted into the cut and hammered with a mallet.

Oil should be applied to the ax handle, the excess will drain, and the tool will remain to dry. After all, with the help of a rag, it is necessary to wipe the ax and the handle.

In addition, you can watch a video on how to make an ax, with which you will be more clear about the essence of making a tool.

Ax blade sharpening

This issue is very important so that the work of the tool does not cause inconvenience and trouble. In accordance with GOST, the sharpening angle should be from twenty to thirty degrees. If you are a professional carpenter, then sharpening should be done at an angle of thirty-five degrees.

Upon completion of the work done with an ax, it is recommended to put a cover on the blade. Be careful!