Warming the bath with your own hands. Proper insulation of the walls of the bath from the inside with your own hands Which insulation is better for the walls of the bath from the inside

When building a traditional Russian or Finnish bath, you need to take care of high-quality insulation of the building in order to prevent large heat losses through walls, ceilings and floors in winter. Otherwise, it will be difficult to heat the steam room properly, and fuel consumption will turn out to be unreasonably high. Not to mention the comfortable conditions for people washing there. It is not difficult to insulate a bath, but you need to have an idea of ​​\u200b\u200bhow to do it correctly and what materials you can use. You can learn about all the nuances of the process from this article.

What heater to choose?

If you study the issue more deeply, it turns out that the main difficulty lies in choosing the right insulation for proper thermal insulation of the bath building in general and the steam room in particular. The reason is simple - none of the many modern materials on the market are suitable for insulating a steam room inside. Moreover, it is simply unacceptable to use foam plastic, foam plastic and other polymers for this purpose, as well as mineral wool.

The bath is designed to improve the health of a person - this is an axiom. Inside the steam room, and other adjacent rooms, high temperature and humidity are provided - this is one of the conditions for the healing procedure. Accordingly, the internal insulation for the bath should not emit any harmful substances, which cannot be said about the vast majority of modern materials.

When heated above 60 ° C (and in the steam room it can also be 110 ° C), all foamed polymers begin to release harmful substances and even emit a specific smell. Therefore, with their help, it is possible to insulate the bath building only from the outside, but by no means inside. The same goes for various kinds basalt and mineral wool, which includes a binder based on phenol. O roll insulation based on glass wool and say nothing.

For reference. Polymeric heaters that are not suitable for interior decoration include polystyrene foam, extruded polystyrene foam, foam plastic, foamed polyethylene insulators (Izolon, Penofol) and other similar materials.

What is the best way to sheathe the walls from the inside in order to insulate the bath correctly and without harm to health? The answer lies on the surface - natural environmentally friendly materials that were used by our ancestors.

Advice. There is an old folk way used for a long time by people in villages. When the owners kept several cows, they prepared a lot of hay and straw for the winter. And they kept them, leaning against the walls of a wooden house or a bathhouse, thereby at the same time warming it for the winter.

Good modern heaters for baths and saunas - this is expanded clay and vermiculite, all others are suitable only for external insulation, done by hand or with the help of specialists. Now that we have figured out the best way to finish the interior of the steam room, we can proceed to the very process of thermal insulation of the walls.

The scheme of warming the bath from the inside

The method of carrying out the work depends on what the building is built from. For example, a well-built log house does not need insulation at all, the thickness of the logs is quite enough. In an old chopped bathhouse, it may be necessary to seal and caulk the cracks between the logs. This is done using felt or other interventional heaters listed above. The same warming procedure is done by hand in structures made of profiled or glued timber, if cracks appear.

To save the walls wooden bath from exposure to high humidity, you can protect them with a foil vapor barrier layer. This does not mean foil insulation made of foamed polyethylene, namely pure foil, which is laid between the inner surface of the wall and wood trim steam rooms. A simple technology is used here: the foil is nailed to a wooden surface with the help of battens, as shown in the diagram:

The joints of the material are made with an overlap of at least 10 cm and are glued with aluminum tape for tightness. Later, interior trim elements are attached to the lathing slats. According to the same scheme, it is proposed to insulate baths built of brick, gas silicate and foam blocks, since these building materials are best protected from moisture. That is, from the inside, lay a foil vapor barrier, and perform the main "pie" of insulation from the outside.

by the most right decision will abandon the idea of ​​insulating the bath from the inside, it is enough to lay a vapor barrier layer between the walls and the interior decoration. At the same time, when installing external thermal insulation, it is possible to use any kind of heaters for baths or saunas without risking the health of your loved ones. In this case, it is worth starting with the insulation of the foundation of the building.

Foundation thermal insulation

This procedure is more convenient to perform during construction, otherwise you will have to destroy the blind area and dig a hole around the structure at least 1 m wide and 30 cm deep. First, a layer of waterproofing is applied to the foundation surface, and then insulation boards are glued. This is where foamed polymers will come in handy - polystyrene, or better, polystyrene foam and foam plastic. The thickness of the heat-insulating layer in this case will be 50 mm.

Advice. To insulate the base and base of the bath, you should not use various foil heaters, they are too thin and will not give the desired effect. Mineral wool is also not suitable, since it is hygroscopic and, after absorbing moisture, is not able to retain heat.

Insulation plates are also laid under the blind area, thus protecting the soil near the building from freezing. Then the concrete blind area is poured and the basement is finished, as shown in the example of sauna insulation from foam blocks:

How to properly insulate the floor and ceiling

As mentioned above, it is possible to produce thermal insulation inside the bath, including floors, only with the help of natural heaters. However, there is a technology in accordance with which it is possible to insulate the floor with foam plastic and similar materials. To do this, you just need to isolate them from the inner space of the steam room and this is done through concrete screed. With this option, the “pie” of the design looks like this:

First, an inclined surface with a footing is arranged, on which a waterproofing film is placed, and on top - a layer of foam. The insulation is covered with another layer of vapor barrier film, after which it is poured with a concrete screed. A ladder is provided in the middle of the structure with drainage pipe for drainage and drainage.

It is possible to simplify the process if you simply use concrete mixed with foam balls or vermiculite for screeding. Then it will simultaneously serve as an insulating layer, and there is no need to put whole plates under the screed. Another option is to take expanded clay for floor insulation, and it will not need to be isolated from the interior of the bath. The method will fit when the wooden floors on the logs are supported by brick posts and you do not plan to arrange a ladder and drainage.

Expanded clay is poured between the lags into the cavity between the finishing and subfloor, or around the brick columns. Remember that to ensure the required degree of insulation, a layer of expanded clay is needed 3-4 times thicker than foam. Otherwise, there will be no sense from it. This material is loose and porous, so after getting wet it can dry out quickly enough, the main thing is that ventilation works.

Also, with the help of expanded clay, the ceiling is insulated in a bath with a cold roof. The only condition is that the ceiling lining must be strong enough to withstand the weight of the insulation. From above, from the side of the attic space, the material does not need to be covered with anything. If you want to insulate the attic over the steam room with sawdust, then they should first be mixed with clay and the resulting solution should be laid between the logs.

The fact is that water vapor will gradually penetrate from the steam room through wooden floor and impregnate a layer of sawdust. As a result of this, they thermal insulation properties will decrease, in addition, a fungus can start from moisture. Clay does not allow moisture to pass through and after drying it will turn out good thermal insulation ceiling. Sometimes a mixture of sawdust and cement is also used, but this option is not suitable for baths and saunas, cement can absorb a lot of moisture and the ceiling will lose heat.

For reference. If any basalt insulation is considered for internal insulation of a bath, then it is not suitable not only because of the release of phenol. Mineral wool also absorbs moisture well, no matter how hard you try to wrap it up, except to hermetically seal the plate material in polyethylene.

We should not forget about reed mats. In the bath, they can be used everywhere and insulate any structures, but it is important to ensure good ventilation and airing of the steam room to dry this natural material after washing procedures.

About door insulation

Due to the large temperature difference between the outside and the room inside the sauna, a large amount of heat can escape through front door if it has loose porches or is poorly insulated. The first problem is solved by the old old-fashioned way- stuffing strips of felt on the elements of the door frame. As for insulation, there are several ways.

The simplest is the installation of a thermal curtain just outside the door. A string is attached to the wall above the entrance, on which a piece of dense fabric is suspended to the floor. In order to be able to move it away, the suspension must be provided on clips or make rings of wire with your own hands. Another way is to insulate a wooden door from the inside by upholstering it with foam rubber or the same felt. From above, the material is covered with dermantine on carnations, and a sealing roller is nailed along the perimeter of the box, as shown in the diagram:

Conclusion

As it turned out, the process of warming the enclosing structures of the bath is not as simple as it might seem. There are a lot of recommendations on the Internet on how to carry out thermal insulation with various heaters, but their environmental friendliness and harmlessness to health are not mentioned. Meanwhile, this is the main factor influencing the choice of material, because from this point of view, the bath should be built flawlessly.

Do-it-yourself warming of the bath from the inside, heater for the bath

What materials can be used to insulate the bath. Methods for thermal insulation of walls, floors and ceilings. Tips for insulating your front door

How to insulate a bath with your own hands inside and out

Any heat loss affects not only the increase in energy costs, but also does not allow you to fully enjoy the comfort. After construction, you need to take care of how to insulate the bath inside and out. We will tell you how to do it yourself, without resorting to the help of hired specialists.

1 Materials for insulation

There are many materials for warming the bath, there are plenty to choose from. These are mineral wool, basalt, fiberglass and foil foam, as well as various wood seals. They are equally well suited for any work and are used for both walls and ceilings of steam rooms. When choosing the best way to insulate a bath, take into account a few tips:

1. The packaging must contain information on the coefficient of thermal conductivity and the maximum thickness of the material. If instead of exact numbers the thermal range is indicated, then it is better to refuse it.
2. Correctly you need to choose the density of the material. High performance is not always a positive side. Give preference to those with lower thermal conductivity.
3. The fire safety class should be marked like this - “GO” or “G1”. The insulation should not be toxic, so that when it is used in the steam room, volatile substances harmful to humans are not released.

Photo of a heater for a bath

An excellent option would be foil penoizol. It does not require additional vapor barrier, and installation is carried out by hand in a short time without a specialized tool.

2 Wall insulation from the outside - a "fur coat" for a bath

The wooden bath is insulated with tow. She lays all mezhventsovye connections. The structure of round logs does not require this, because during processing special cuts are made in the logs and they fit snugly together.

Wall insulation from the outside is carried out only in brick baths. This is done according to the principle of a ventilated facade. As a material for vapor and waterproofing, polyethylene film is used, and as a heater - mineral wool.

In the photo - warming the walls of a brick bath from the outside

How brick walls are insulated - work plan:

1. First, a frame made of a metal profile is mounted over the entire surface of the wall, the distance between the guides should be selected based on the size of the insulation so that it does not need to be cut.
2. Mineral wool is laid between the frame elements.
3. From above, the insulation is covered with a vapor barrier film to protect the wool from condensation.
4. The joints of the vapor barrier material are glued with adhesive tape.
5. The insulation through the vapor barrier is attached to the wall with special dowels, the cap of which looks like an umbrella.
6. After that, the walls are sheathed with the selected finishing material.

There is nothing complicated and all the work on warming the walls of the bath from the outside can be easily done with your own hands. Thanks to the appearance on the market of modern materials such as foil pinotherm, you can do without additional hydrovapor barrier. It is laid on the wall and the whole structure is sewn up with a finishing material.

3 Wall insulation from the inside

Having dealt with outdoor work, you can proceed to the next stage. How to insulate a bath from the inside? For this, an old, tried and tested method is used - a frame device with a gasket of heat-insulating material. The principle is similar to the installation of a ventilated facade during the insulation of the outer wall.

Photo of warming the bath from the inside

1. First, a frame made of wooden bars or metal elements is mounted around the entire perimeter of the load-bearing walls. The distance between the guides of the frame should be equal to the width of the insulation.
2. Then, a heater is laid in the finished structure, on top of which foil waterproofing must be overlapped. The joints are glued with construction tape.
3. The final step will be the installation of a wooden lining.

This method is laborious, but proven over the years. It will not be difficult to insulate the walls of the bath with your own hands.

4 Floor insulation

Let us describe the general principle of floor insulation. They are insulated with foam, and the scheme looks like this:

1. We level the base as much as possible and lay it waterproofing material.
2. We carefully place the insulation on a flat film, if necessary, filling the voids with cut-off pieces.
3. On top of this “pie” we place a reinforcing mesh and fill everything with concrete.
4. After hardening, finishing, laying tiles, etc.

In the photo - a pie of the floor of the bath

Many may ask why foam? This is the most durable and rigid material of all roll or plate heaters. It withstands significant mechanical loads without changing its characteristics in a humid environment. Numerous air bubbles are hidden in the thickness of the foam, providing low thermal conductivity. It won't rot or get moldy over time. In fact, this is a universal material, it is also used to insulate the walls of the bath, both outside and inside.

This is a mandatory part because a lot of heat escapes through the roof. Some still use old-fashioned methods, filling the attic with soil, straw or sawdust. Today there are more modern options, but the essence of the work has not changed. It is necessary to properly insulate the ceiling from the outside, that is, from the side of the attic.

Photo of insulation of the attic room of the bath

Expanded clay, polystyrene or mineral wool can be used. From the side of the steam room, if the chimney pipe exits through the top, it is lined with asbestos cloth and coated with fire-retardant mastic. Styrofoam or mineral wool should be laid no closer than 15–20 cm from the pipe. Expanded clay can be poured next to the pipe, since it is absolutely non-combustible material.

Do-it-yourself ceiling insulation sequence:

1. First, we cover the entire surface with waterproofing material.
2. Between the lags we lay the material. If it is polystyrene or mineral wool, we cut it according to size, fill up the expanded clay and level it over the entire area.
3. We lay another layer of vapor barrier film on top of the insulation and sew up the structure with boards on top - if you want to make a floor in the attic or lay flooring for passage during maintenance of the attic space.

In the photo - the floor in the attic of the bath

When considering the use of expanded clay, it must be taken into account that this material does not have very good thermal conductivity and for normal insulation a thick layer will be required. Do you think the cover will hold up? The best options would be rolled or slab heaters.

6 front door

With complex insulation, you will need to think about this problem. Experts recommend making the doors narrow and low. This will greatly reduce heat loss. Well, if you still need their additional protection, then let's look at how to insulate the door to the bathhouse with your own hands. There are several ways, differing in complexity of execution.

The first is the laying of material into the inner cavity of the door. In this embodiment, a two-layer frame structure is required. The method is laborious and not everyone can do it. At the initial stage, you will have to assemble a door from two canvases, with a heat insulator laid inside.

Photo of laying a heat insulator for a bath door

In the second method, you can fix the material on top of the structure. Then close everything with a decorative coating. This option is easier. A foil insulation is stuffed onto the canvas, which is hidden under moisture-resistant plywood or other decorative material.

All measures for warming the bath inside and out are carried out at the construction stage. A complex approach and right choice material will reduce the cost of heating the steam room and maintain a comfortable room temperature.

How to insulate the bath from the inside with your own hands? Video

How to insulate a bath inside and out with your own hands - the article describes the technology of insulation with foam and mineral wool, and the video will tell you how to do everything right

Warming the bath from the inside with your own hands is easier than a lung

When building a bath, it is necessary to consider the issue of building insulation. It does not matter when the room was built, and from what material. Or maybe you have prepared a place or have already built a building for it? Then further the question arises before you, how to insulate the bath from the inside and outside?

Take advantage of our tips, and you will be able to do everything right the first time. In this article we will talk specifically about internal insulation.

The main reasons why it is necessary to insulate the room is the saving of heating agents and a comfortable stay in the bath. To do this, you need to insulate the building from the outside, and the room from the inside. For maximum efficiency, it is necessary to take a comprehensive approach to this process. This may require sufficient funds, so correctly calculate the financial side of the issue.

Your bath is built from a wooden frame

The most common material from which they built for a long time and continue to use today is a wooden beam. If the bath is built from a bar with a diameter of less than 200 mm, then it is better to insulate the building from the outside.

If a tree with a diameter of 200 mm or more was used for construction, it is correctly laid, securely caulked, and also protected from external influences environment, then usually the insulation of the walls from the outside is not required. It is enough to get high-quality waterproofing from the outside.

In order for the warming of the bath from the inside to happen quickly, we recommend that you consider the standard method using mineral wool. For this type of room, the optimal thickness of the insulation will be two times less than for the insulation of brick walls. For standard brickwork of two and a half bricks, the recommended thickness of the insulation layer is at least 10 cm.

For information: thickness wooden beam 20 cm in terms of heat loss is equivalent to a thickness of 64 cm brickwork.

Reliable brick bath

Insulation of a brick bath from the inside must be carried out first. Because the use of the bath is still periodic, and in frost it is quite difficult to warm up the brickwork in a short period of time. Subsequently, it is necessary to carry out thermal insulation work on the insulation of the outer walls.

The solution to this issue is as follows. A crate is mounted on the wall, then a waterproofing layer is tightened, on which a wooden frame is mounted. It is best to make a wooden frame from a bar 100 x 100 mm. Inside the room, mineral wool with an aluminum foil layer is used as a heater. The final waterproofing layer, which is stuffed decorative lining. Use dense woods for finishing rooms, larch, cedar are perfect. Do not forget to treat the wooden surface with antiseptic solutions from the inside.

If the thickness of the brickwork is small, then it is possible to replace the timber with an additional layer of insulation, with the obligatory laying of a waterproofing layer.

Modern buildings made of foam concrete or cinder blocks

Foam concrete - is used relatively recently, but it has proven itself well, and the houses built from it correspond to the declared characteristics. In the thermal conductivity table, the properties of the blocks are not far from the tree. But the properties of cinder block and foam concrete are very good at absorbing moisture than wood. These materials require mandatory thermal insulation. For insulation, heaters based on stone wool and fiberglass are best suited, but it is also possible to use polystyrene boards. Special attention should be given to the issue of vapor barrier.

Warming the bath from the inside will be right to do by applying frame mounting crates with obligatory indentation from the walls. In this case, the gap will be well ventilated. Ventilation windows are installed to vent air from the outside. When taking a bath, the windows must be closed, and after the end of the procedure, open.

Warming technology is standard. A frame is mounted on aerated concrete or cinder block walls, designed for mounting insulation, with a mandatory indent from the walls, then the insulation is placed in the frame and “sewn up” with boards that are covered with a layer of vapor barrier. Premises with high humidity finished with hardwood or cedar clapboard. Thus, for heating cinder block or aerated concrete walls“precious” heat will not be wasted.

This method of insulation is suitable for all structures built using various blocks.

According to the "Canadian" technology

In the harsh climate of Canada, houses built using frame technology have proven to be excellent. If your bath is built according to this principle, then it would be right to use mineral wool as an energy-saving layer. It is better to refuse polystyrene. A mineral heat insulator is inserted into the crate, which is mounted on the walls, with the obligatory 100% filling of the entire area. Then the wall is sewn up with OSB or clapboard. A steam room in such a bath will be most effectively insulated with roll insulators. Ventilation gaps between partitions are not required.

There is another option for insulation. On the mounted wooden frame, a layer of vapor barrier is laid, which is fastened with wood paneling. between internal and outer walls heat-insulating boards are laid, foam plastic can be used, then the entire area is covered with asbestos-cement boards. The room becomes warmer, and the design of the bath is more durable.

Natural materials have good thermal conductivity properties. Wood sawdust, straw, reed mats. The binding element is clay. The three components are mixed dry at the rate of 85% clay, 10% lime and 5% gypsum or alabaster. Water is added to the mixture, until the consistency of thick sour cream. Ready mix is laid, between the inner and outer skins. If sawdust is used, then they must be well dried, and must be treated with iron sulphate. Reed mats are coated on both sides with a thick layer of mortar.

After the mixture dries, shrinkage and cracking are possible. To avoid cold bridges, it is better to refill them with the mixture.

Floor insulation

It is necessary to conditionally divide the floor insulation zones in the bath.

For "secondary" rooms, dressing room, kitchen, shower room is most suitable ceramic tile with heat-insulating layer.

Let us give an example of the most accessible and efficient installation floor covering. A layer of vapor barrier is laid on the subfloor, then a layer of heat-insulating material follows. It can be chosen arbitrarily. Suitable high-density foam, expanded clay, extruded polystyrene foam. Pay attention to the leveling of the surface at this stage, and do not forget to leave room for communications.

Further, a galvanized metal mesh is laid over the entire area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe room, which is poured with a layer of concrete. After drying, a waterproofing layer is applied. After complete drying, the entire area is filled with a finishing screed, up to 5 cm thick. It is important to fill the entire surface at the same time. After that, it is possible to apply the construction of a warm floor or proceed with laying tiles.

For the main premises - steam rooms and rest rooms, only a wooden floor is suitable.

Ceiling insulation

In order for the temperature not to "run away" to the roof, the insulation of the ceiling space should be a priority. The device of the thermal "pie" must be correct, so there is no need to invent anything.

If there are residential premises on the second floor above the steam room, then it is necessary to insulate it a little differently. A clay composition is applied to the ceiling boards, about 2 cm thick. After complete drying, eliminate cracks and shrinkage moments with the same solution.

Dry sawdust can be used as thermal insulation. There should be no bark in the sawdust. You can use another insulation at your discretion. The thickness of the layer should be about 20 cm, it is not necessary to ram it.

That's actually all the tricks in warming the ceiling of the bath.

We hope that in a warm bath, you will have a good rest and gain strength and health.

How to insulate a bath from the inside with your own hands: photos, videos, tips

How to insulate the bath from the inside with your own hands? What are the best materials to use? Expert advice and step by step guide.

How to insulate a bath from the inside? Insulation for a bath - reviews, prices

Banya is a traditional building in Russia. But given the climatic conditions in which it will be operated, it is very important not only to build it correctly, but also to know how to insulate the bath from the inside. Today, there are a huge number of materials that can be safely used as a heater. But how to choose it correctly and by what technology to carry out its installation? We will answer these questions in this article.

Minerals or organics?

Everybody modern materials conditionally can be divided into mineral and organic. The first include basalt fiber, mineral wool and glass wool. Their distinctive features are durability, moisture resistance, fire resistance and resistance to decay processes. Such materials are available in the form of slabs or mats, so they are ideal for those who choose insulation for the bath ceiling.

Organic materials are arbolite, fibrolite, which are based on peat, reeds, wood waste. The peculiarity of these plates is that they are available in various sizes and can be used in any climatic conditions. True, experts still do not recommend using these materials for finishing a bath, primarily because they ignite quickly. However, their advantage, according to customer reviews, is just in availability. For comparison: wood concrete slabs cost from 4,000 rubles per cubic meter of material.

Vapor barrier is important!

When deciding how to insulate the bath from the inside, do not forget about the vapor barrier. Most often, roofing material, glassine are used for this purpose, but for a bath this is not the most good option. The main danger is in the emitted toxic substances that enter the human body through the lungs. Accordingly, it is best to use aluminum foil or foil-coated boards as a vapor barrier. Firstly, this will ensure a favorable microclimate in the bath. Secondly, these materials, thanks to shiny surface reflect heat into the room. By the way, materials with foil are in great demand, which is also evidenced by the reviews of those who have already built and insulated the bathhouse on their own. The foil material is based on polyethylene foam, and its cost starts from 1000 rubles per roll, depending on the manufacturer.

We warm the floor

When insulating a bath, you need to start with finishing the floor. Most often, it is made either solid or flowing. In the first method, mineral wool insulation is laid on a subfloor made of boards, then covered with a layer of waterproofing, the edges of which should extend onto the wall. Then the final floor is installed. If the floor is leaky, it will be necessary to dig a pit 50 cm deep. It is filled with sand by 50 mm, compacted, then a heater for the bath, for example, foam boards, is laid. The cement screed is poured, and only then the waterproofing layer is laid. By the way, roofing material can also be used for the floor, since it will not heat up and emit harmful substances. Cement is poured onto the waterproofing, a reinforcing mesh is spread, the floor is poured with concrete, to which small gravel is added. At this stage, a slope towards the drain is being considered. At the last stage, the finishing floor is laid.

Styrofoam is in great demand among buyers, who note its incombustibility and water-repellent properties, which is very important when arranging a bath. And the prices for this material are very attractive: depending on the brand and density of the plates, they can be purchased from 1000 rubles per cubic meter.

Features of wall insulation

How to insulate a bath from the inside and what materials to use? Experts advise dealing with walls and ceilings at the same time as finishing the floor. All stages of work can be reduced to the following:

1. A crate of timber (50 to 50) is applied to the walls, the ceiling, and a very small gap must be left between them for insulation. It is not necessary to leave wide spaces, since the material should straighten out and occupy the entire niche. For such purposes, it is best to use basalt or mineral fiber.
2. A vapor barrier material, for example, based on foil, is mounted on the laid insulation. Warm air will be reflected from the mirror surface of the foil material and returned to the room.
3. Interior cladding in progress.

Experts advise to be more attentive to the decoration of brick and cinder block baths, in which the level of heat loss is too high. In such cases, it is best to use thicker basalt fiber. Another popular foil insulation for a bath is foam, which has a coating in the form of metallized lavsan or foil. Along with insulation, it solves the problem of vapor barrier. Thermal insulation using foam material, according to many buyers, is of high quality and reliability. At the same time, you can buy it both in a roll (the cost is from 3,000 rubles per roll) and in pieces (you will pay about 115 rubles per square meter of material).

Ceiling insulation

When choosing a material for finishing the ceiling of a bath, you should remember one rule: the ceiling will need twice as much material as the walls. This is due to the fact that when warm air rises up, condensation will accumulate on the ceiling. When choosing a heater for the bath ceiling, keep in mind that you will have to make a crate from wooden slats, which are attached to the top of the bath.

It is worth remembering that thermal insulation and vapor barrier are two completely different processes that perform different functions. Warming is necessary to maintain the desired temperature in the room for a long time, and the task of vapor barrier is to create an optimal balance of humidity and high temperature. That is why, when deciding how to properly insulate the bath from the inside, remember the rule of complex work.

After the installation of the crate, a vapor barrier layer is laid - either with roll paper or foil material. Then the installation of thermal insulation is carried out, for example, using mineral wool, polystyrene foam, as well as some other materials. It is worth remembering that the distance between the laths of the crate should be greater than the thickness of the plates. The plates are laid between the slats, while their outer part must be freed from the foil so that the insulation can pass air. At the last stage of work, the ceiling is sheathed with clapboard, which is easy to use and environmentally friendly.

Features of floor insulation

When deciding how to insulate the bath from the inside, remember that almost all works are identical to each other in different areas. You need to proceed from what material the floor will be created from. For wooden coatings, it is best to use bulk materials in the form of slag or expanded clay, which are carefully leveled over the surface. Boards are laid on them, but ideally, for greater insulation, it is best to lay mineral wool as a layer. In this case, it is important to pay attention to the competent isolation of joints.

If the floor in the bath is concrete, then the coating laying technology will be somewhat different. First you need to lay a rough concrete screed, on which an insulating material is mounted, for example, roofing felt, a thick polyethylene film. Then another concrete layer is poured, after which it is reinforced. The last step is laying the flooring.

Thermal insulation of a bath from a bar and a brick

In ancient times, they did not think about how to insulate the walls of the bath from the inside. It’s just that in those days there was a slightly different construction technology, and moss was laid between the timber - the most affordable insulation. When using a beam, insulation is effective through caulking and additional waterproofing. Traditionally, the design is a "pie", in which the layer is made of mineral wool.

The best insulation for a brick bath is based on foil. The fact is that brick walls quickly freeze through, which affects the condition of the room. In winter, it is difficult to heat them, so ideally, you should arrange a steam room based on a wooden frame made of timber. The essence of the work is as follows:

1. We lay waterproofing on the crate.
2. We mount a wall from a bar.
3. A crate is arranged on it, on which fiberglass or foil insulation for a bath is attached.
4. Then a waterproofing layer is mounted, after which the finishing is performed, for example, with lining.

In some cases, a brick bath can be covered instead of timber with an insulating material of appropriate thickness.

Features of insulation of a bath from foam blocks

Due to the availability of this material, baths are increasingly being built from it. In addition, such a structure will meet a number of requirements:

• in the steam room, excellent thermal insulation performance will be achieved due to the porous structure of the foam blocks;
• warming a bath built from this material will protect the walls from freezing, while it is best to use mineral wool or fiberglass. Do not forget about the vapor barrier;
• when arranging a bath from foam blocks, it is worth considering a ventilation system: for this, there should be holes at the top and bottom of the walls that will be left open and will allow you to ventilate and dry the bath in a timely manner.

Thus, when considering the insulation of a bath from foam blocks, it is worth proceeding from the following plan:

1. A frame is mounted on the wall.
2. The heater is installed.
3. Boards are attached.
4. A vapor barrier layer is placed in the steam room.
5. Finishing is carried out (from aspen or cedar wood).

How to insulate a bath from the inside? Insulation for a bath - reviews, prices

How to insulate the bath from the inside in order to achieve good thermal insulation and ensure optimal air exchange? You must first choose high-quality and reliable materials, and then decide on the technology of work.

As for the walls, there is a dependence on the material, and some walls need mandatory insulation, while for others it is a matter of taste of the owner.

By type

In this article we consider wall insulation in the bath, make an overview of wall insulation and the types of insulation themselves. For convenience, the types of walls are presented in the table:

frame	the frame bath cannot be heated if you do not take care of the insulation. Inside the frame, sheathed with wood shields, there is a pie made of insulation and layers of vapor and waterproofing. You only need to take into account the weight of the insulation, because a large frame bath will not stand. If everything is done correctly, it will not yield to wood in terms of warmth.
from blocks (, cinder blocks and others)	block bath itself warmer than a brick- and due to the air in the pores, and due to artificial voids in the blocks. But in winter, it is also very cold, so it is insulated from the inside with the usual “pie”. True, the blocks should be protected from moisture from the outside, which is achieved (at least) by waterproofing and external cladding. Learn more about and.
brick	brick baths need insulation more than others, because they are built from cold material, similar in properties to stone. Therefore, it is imperative for them internal insulation so as not to heat the entire frozen mass of bricks every winter. External insulation may not be needed, it remains entirely at the discretion of the owner.
wooden (, log)	a wooden bath is the only one that will not need a “layer cake” with proper traditional insulation of the crowns and sealing of the joints between them. Of course, from which it is built, they should not be too thin at the same time (not 10x10, for example, although such a thickness will do for the summer version of the bath in the country). (See article)

Steam room, washing room or dressing room

Inside the bath is internal walls separating rooms with different temperature conditions. Each of these rooms has its own specifics. Let's consider each case separately:

Steam room insulation

The steam room is the room with the highest temperature. In the Russian bath, 60-90 degrees are optimal, in the Finnish - 70-110. In addition, baths often burn down. So, the materials used in the construction should:

• withstand such temperature (and humidity);
• do not emit toxic substances when heated;
• do not support combustion.

The restrictions are very significant. The types of insulation will be discussed below, but it is already clear that it is extremely limited.

If an environmentally friendly insulation is strongly gaining moisture (while losing its properties), you also have to take care of its high-quality insulation between the layers of the hydro- and vapor barrier. And to prevent rotting of wood, which most often ends up in a steam room, it is necessary to leave ventilation gaps between the vapor barrier and the same lining or imitation of timber.

From what has been said, it is already clear that the steam room. Special, because light steam tends up to the ceiling, where the main heat losses occur in the absence or improper insulation. The vapor barrier is placed in two layers.

Often it is used as it in the steam room and returned to the room (as in a thermos). In addition, it is an excellent vapor barrier, because it does not let water through at all.

One more trouble spot- flue outlet. It must be well insulated, and the ceiling must be protected from overheating. A high threshold to the steam room, and a low, but wide one, will help to keep warm.

Washing room insulation

Wall insulation in the washing room in the bath. The washing room differs from the steam room in that the temperatures are lower here, and the humidity is higher. Nevertheless, the task of saving heat is also relevant for soap. Warming methods are no different from a steam room, except that there is no need for a double vapor barrier.

But there is a need for good ventilation. The floor in the washing room is often made of tiles. If desired, it is insulated with a "warm floor" system. Less steam accumulates under the ceiling than in the steam room, but you shouldn’t leave room for heat loss here either, so the ceiling of the washing room is also carefully insulated.

Warming of the dressing room

The dressing room, although not directly exposed to steam and water, is nevertheless applies to rooms with high humidity- the proximity to the steam room and washing affects. Therefore, it includes all recommendations regarding the choice of heaters and the need for insulation.

The dressing room also needs insulation so that it does not become that refrigerator that will take heat from other rooms. The scheme of an ordinary pie may not be needed if polyurethane foam is used as a heater in the dressing room - it does not need to be fixed to the wall and isolated from moisture and steam.

What kind of bath, wall insulation from the inside or outside?

A question that torments many bathhouse owners when they think about warming it. In fact, everything is not as difficult as it seems. If you are already familiar with the concept of “dew point”, then for a bath it is not very relevant - this is a room that is used from time to time, and when used, the temperature and humidity jump sharply and high. Because of this, the dew point slides back and forth when you heat the bath, splash water on the heater when it cools and ventilates.

Therefore, the main task of the owner becomes the creation of proper ventilation in the bath and thorough drying of the premises after the bath procedure. And it’s also worth putting a heater that does not deteriorate from dampness and dries easily.

At least in the first place, the insulation is placed from the inside, because by insulating from this side, you will not waste energy every time on heating the entire thickness of the walls, which have had time to cool down to outdoor temperature in winter time.

IMPORTANT! With external cladding, it is better to use a membrane as waterproofing, which will release vapors from the insulation, but prevent the penetration of street moisture.

In addition, there is a specificity in the material of the walls: block baths, due to the hygroscopicity of the blocks, need external cladding, it is almost always combined with insulation from the outside. But wooden baths are not insulated from the outside, for fear of rotting walls.

vapor barrier

The importance of vapor barrier is to do not allow water vapor to wet the insulation, which because of this loses its thermal insulation properties.

When foil the task becomes more complicated: it not only does not let steam through, but also must reflect most of the infrared radiation. More information about the foil can be obtained at the link given above, where we considered the insulation of the steam room.

The physical properties of the material used as a vapor barrier should not change with strong heating.

It also includes the requirements for environmental cleanliness for insulation.

Wall insulation in the bath and their decoration

The “pie” scheme is similar both inside and out: if a non-sprayed insulation is used, then

1. the first layer to the wall is the crate;
2. followed by a layer of insulation;
3. then a layer of vapor barrier;
4. ventilation gap (for example, using a crate);
5. exterior or interior wall decoration

Interior wall decoration for a bath

Since we are talking about baths, the majority, of course, prefers wood. If not in the whole bath, then at least in the steam room. It could be:

• lining;
• timber imitation;
• block house.

It is optimal to use larch or aspen in a steam room, but conifers are best left for washing.- in the steam room they can cause a burn, and in the washing resin they will protect the tree from rotting with excessive moisture. However, in washing rooms it is often used for interior decoration. tile- ceramic, made of natural or artificial stone, porcelain stoneware. There is also a cheaper option. with plastic panels, but I do not want to recommend it - because of the smell.

Useful video

Watch the video, which explains the specifics of the insulation of bath walls:

External wall decoration

Insulation and wall decoration for a bath from the outside suggests more options. In addition to the fact that outside the baths are sheathed with the same materials as inside (see above), there are more options:

• vinyl siding;
• plastic lining;
• edged and unedged board;
• plaster;
• OSB panels;
• facade tiles.

IMPORTANT! A ventilation gap should be left between the interior trim and the vapor barrier, and between the exterior trim and the waterproofing membrane.

Which heater to choose?

Type of insulation		Where to apply
reed slabs		Warming of the rest room and dressing room. Completely unsuitable for warming the steam room and washing room - they are flammable.
peat slabs
particle boards
Styrofoam		Good insulation for (everywhere, except for the steam room), but inside in hot rooms it is highly not recommended to use it because of the release of phenol.
extruded polystyrene foam		For the floor, usually the second layer after expanded clay, suitable.
foam glass		For a bath, a great option, because the material took the best from foam and mineral wool.
mineral wool		For internal insulation of walls and ceilings, only basalt wool and stone wool for baths and saunas from Rockwool are suitable - they comply with the standards for the content of phenolic substances, which are usually impregnated with mineral wool. More information in .
glass wool		Mineral wool tolerates high temperatures worse, it can insulate everything except the steam room.
expanded clay		For floors and ceilings, the layer should be more than 20 cm, fractions should be mixed to fill voids.
		They have two qualities: vapor barrier and reflection of infrared radiation. They are most often used in a steam room, but can be used wherever there is a need to create a "thermos".
classic interventional insulation	red moss	Traditional materials for warming log cabins and baths from timber. Rodents and birds take them to their nests. During insulation work, the plant material dries up, which complicates the already long and painstaking work. They need a caulk periodically.
	cuckoo flax
	sphagnum
	woolen felt
	hemp hemp
	linen tow
	jute
modern interventional insulation	lnovatin	Modern hybrid materials, which are preferred when caulking wooden baths. Well and quickly fill the voids between the crowns. It is enough to do the work once and repeated caulking may not be needed at all. Learn more:
	linen-jute felt
	jute felt
	fluffy spruce or pine wood

As you can see correct options more than one, so you always have a choice. Finally, one piece of advice: when purchasing a heater, carefully consider its technical characteristics and the availability of certificates confirming its safety for humans at elevated temperatures.

Where to order or buy

Clients with knowledge and skills in the construction industry can do the work themselves. They will be interested in companies offering wall insulation, collected on our site.

AT modern bath like not only to wash, but also to have a good rest. Our tips will help to make the room warm and comfortable.

Warming the bath - what you need for work

Warming the bath from the inside with your own hands will save money on work and heating. It is not a shame to invite friends to a comfortable bathhouse exuding warmth and comfort. A unique microclimate can be maintained by high-quality thermal insulation, competently made of good materials. The work is laborious, but anyone with the necessary knowledge and skillful hands can cope with it.

Warming the bath from the inside is different from thermal insulation works in normal premises, the conditions in which the materials are exposed. First of all, it is humidity, especially in the steam room and washing room, and in other rooms the air is not dry. Therefore, the insulation either should not absorb moisture, or it must be reliably protected from steam and moisture. In the steam room, the temperature can rise even above 100 °. Materials such as polystyrene foam, polystyrene foam are deformed at high temperatures, emit substances harmful to health. For the same reason, plastic or linoleum is never used in the bath. Part of the heat is lost as infrared radiation, so a foil layer is needed to reflect the rays.

In addition to the heat insulator, other materials will be required, in particular, the crate. For stone, brick baths, it is better to use a drywall profile. It usually goes into business ceiling profile CD, UD guide is used for perimeter edging. Hangers are fixed on average after 0.7 m, the distance between the profiles is slightly less than the width of the insulation. In a wooden bath, instead of a drywall profile, it is advisable to use bars, they are cheaper and will last as long as the walls.

You will need foil, for example, foam. It is able to protect walls from dampness, reflect infrared rays, and additionally insulate the room due to the presence of foam material. For wooden baths, it can be used as the main material for insulation. On top of the insulation layer they arrange from the lining. best material linden or aspen is considered, they are durable even in such difficult conditions, and besides, they do not burn.

How to insulate - an overview of artificial and natural materials

When choosing a material for insulation, you should be guided by quality characteristics. A good insulation should provide reliable vapor and waterproofing, be environmentally friendly, not fire hazardous. There are many materials for insulation - artificial and traditional from natural raw materials. If you are a fan of absolute sustainability, then, of course, choose natural material. But you should be aware that without pre-treatment, such material is seriously threatened by mold, rodents, and insects. artificial materials have best qualities are easier to work with.

Natural materials for insulation, such as moss, linen tow, hemp, have been used since ancient times. They are cheap or completely free, highly environmentally friendly, fill the bath with a special natural aroma. But they are short-lived, you need to constantly update them, it is difficult and long to work with them. From natural materials, perhaps, one expanded clay is convenient for work, durable. It is moisture resistant, weighs a little, durable. Thanks to these qualities, expanded clay is used for floor insulation in baths.

From synthetic materials for warming the bath from the inside, extruded polystyrene foam, mineral and glass wool are suitable. Each of the materials has unique properties:

1. 1. Expanded polystyrene is a reliable heat insulator of low cost and light weight. It is fire hazardous, does not withstand high temperatures, therefore it is used only in the dressing room and other similar rooms, except for the washing department and the steam room.
2. 2. Mineral wool is a durable, fireproof, non-hygroscopic material. It is produced in the form of sheets or mats, which are convenient to work with. It is easy to damage, so work with mineral wool should be careful.
3. 3. Glass wool is made from interwoven extremely thin glass fibers. The material contains a lot of air, so it has a heat-saving effect. Available in rolls or slabs.
4. 4. Basalt fiber is expensive, but it can become ideal material. The basis is molten rocks, so the insulation does not burn, is not afraid of mechanical deformation and moisture, and keeps heat well. It is convenient to work with it, cutting into pieces of the required size.

The choice is influenced by the material of the walls. If the bath is brick, stone, made of concrete and similar materials, it is necessary to insulate. This is necessary to keep warm and extend the life of the building, because the walls will begin to collapse from high humidity and very large temperature fluctuations. The wooden bath itself is warm, but it will not be worse from the warming layer. It is recommended to insulate, if the beam is less than 15 cm thick, log baths with a wall thickness of less than 20 cm. With a greater thickness of log walls, thermal insulation for the bath is not needed, or a waterproofing layer is used, which is then covered with clapboard.

To keep your feet warm - underfloor heating without heating

It will be necessary to insulate the floor from the inside if this operation was previously skipped. The base of an uninsulated floor can be concrete or wood. For a concrete floor, expanded polystyrene or expanded clay is suitable for insulation. Expanded polystyrene is better extruded - denser than polystyrene, capable of withstanding a greater load. There is no need to worry about the threat to health - waterproofing and screed will protect against harmful emissions.

We carry out waterproofing with rolled bituminous material, dense polyethylene or mastic. They should capture the base and walls to a thickness equal to the insulating layer with the screed. On top of the waterproofing, we pour expanded clay or lay PPS slabs. We close the gaps between the sheets using polystyrene foam trimmings, mounting foam, and expanded clay is simply leveled. We lay another membrane on top, glue the joints with adhesive tape, creating a bag that does not allow moisture to pass through.

We fill with waterproofing reinforced screed. If we use expanded clay, the thermal insulation of the floor will improve. On the frozen floor, you can put the finish on top.

We warm the wooden floor in a similar way. We treat wood with antiseptics, use mineral wool or glass wool as a heater. We lay the waterproofing, logs on it, between them there is a tight insulator. From above we cover with two layers of material impregnated with bitumen. We glue the waterproofing membrane with adhesive tape, lay a wooden floor on top. Alternatively, we use plywood, on top of which we make a screed.

If the cold floor from the boards can be disassembled, then it is better to insulate it from the base. We select the ground shallowly, take it out, ram the base. We fall asleep with a 10–15 cm layer of sand and gravel, tamp and lay waterproofing material. We fill the membrane with expanded clay or lay other material. We prepare a solution of cement and sand 1: 1, pour a rough screed. After setting it, we make a finishing reinforced screed.

Warm walls and ceiling - complete comfort for vacationers

We start warming the walls of the bath from the inside with surface preparation - we close up, isolate the cracks, wooden surfaces we treat with solutions from mold, fungi, fire. The insulation pie has the following structure:

1. 1. We attach bars or a drywall profile to the wall;
2. 2. Between them we lay a heat insulator;
3. 3. We put a waterproofing layer on it;
4. 4. Wooden crate on top;
5. 5. Completes all finishing.

Before installing the crate, be sure to measure the width of the heat-insulating material. The specified dimensions do not always correspond to the actual ones, moreover, the edges could be somewhat deformed during transportation. We install the crate with a step slightly less than the width of the material so that it enters between the crate with little effort. In places of loose fit of the heat insulator, where gaps remain, cold penetrates and condensation forms. The height of the crate must correspond to the thickness of the thermal insulation.

Between the bars tightly, avoiding gaps, we lay the insulation. If the distance is chosen correctly, the heat insulator is held on the wall without additional fastening, but for safety reasons, you can use stainless or hot-dip galvanized screws with washers. We seal the foil heat insulator at the joints with aluminum tape for tightness. We also seal the contact points of the insulation with the crate, capturing at least 5 cm of insulation and timber. Joint sealing is very important, penetrating into insulation layer moisture greatly increases its thermal conductivity.

Warming the bath from the inside is not limited to a heat-insulating layer. We protect it from moisture - it is better in the steam room and washing compartment, which will also reflect heat. The room will heat up faster, heating costs will decrease, and the stove will last longer. For other rooms, you can use a different material. We lay the strips, overlapping one another by 5 cm, fasten them with staples using a stapler. We cover the joints and places of clogging the staples with foil tape. We do not leave a gap between the insulation and the vapor barrier layer.

We attach a crate of wooden planks of 20 mm thickness to the bars for mounting the lining. The thickness is selected to provide a gap between the crate and the vapor barrier. We fix the crate vertically so that condensate can drain between the vapor barrier layer and the lining, then it will last longer.

To ensure a stack of condensate, we fasten the crate on the walls horizontally, under the lining - vertically, the finishing layer will be horizontal.

Ceiling insulation is no different from wall insulation, except that we start working with the ceiling earlier than with the walls. Some features of ceiling insulation should be borne in mind. Since most of the heat is collected at the top, we make the thermal insulation layer thicker than on the walls. We provide a small overlap of insulating layers on the walls. When thermally insulating the walls, we put it on the wall material, glue the joints with foil tape.

Windows and doors - have you forgotten about them?

A significant proportion of heat also escapes through leaky windows and doors. we make a small one, with the minimum allowable size. We raise the threshold above the floor level by 25 cm to block the path of cold air from the adjacent room. We make the door leaf from wood, we tightly adjust the boards. Additionally, doors can be insulated like walls. We seal the door frame and canvas so that there are no gaps.

We do not make large windows in the bathhouse, with the exception of the rest room. The frames must be double glazed so that the air inside serves as a heat insulator. We install the glass on a sealant, it turns out a double-glazed window impenetrable to cold air. The gaps between the opening and the frame are securely sealed with mineral wool, and a layer of waterproofing is applied on top.

We hope the article dispelled the erroneous opinion that the thermal insulation of the bath is a simple matter. It turns out that it has its own specifics, first of all it concerns the choice of materials and installation. Once again, we pay attention to the reliable sealing of all layers. If you do the work carefully, adhering to the advice, the bath will bring real pleasure from being in it.

The vast majority of owners country houses do not imagine their site without a real Russian bath or sauna. But in order for it to function properly, and really bring only strength and health to the owners, it is very important to insulate it well, methods of insulation are considered at the stage of drawing up a bath project, but this can also be done with a ready construction

To know how to properly insulate a bath from the inside, you need to study the technology of this process and choose the right materials.

Work materials

Before proceeding with the consideration of insulation technology, it is necessary to figure out what materials need to be prepared for work.

1. Thermal insulation material - is the most important component in the process of insulating the walls, ceiling and floor of the bath. To date, there are a large number of heaters, but not all of them are suitable for bath conditions. Which of them are most adapted to high temperatures and humidity? It makes sense to look at the most popular - expanded polystyrene, plain and extruded (XPS boards), mineral wool, polyurethane foam and expanded clay:

Styrofoam		Mineral wool	XPS slabs
Has an open cell structure	Since the installation of the material occurs by spraying, it can have an open and closed cellular structure.	It has a fibrous structure, the fibers are arranged randomly in the vertical and horizontal direction	Closed (sealed) cell structure	Natural bulk material consisting of granules with a porous structure
Poor moisture permeability	Poor moisture permeability	Almost does not absorb moisture	Doesn't let moisture through	Doesn't let moisture through
Light in weight	Light in weight	Medium-light in weight	Medium-light in weight	Easy
Has medium strength	Has low strength	Has medium strength	Has high strength	Granules have high strength
Average compressive strength	Low compressive strength	May vary in low to medium compressive strength	High resistance to compression	Granules are resistant to compression
Over time, it begins to release toxic substances	When heated, it becomes toxic, emits carbon dioxide and carbon monoxide	Non toxic	Non toxic	Non toxic
Not suitable for heavy duty applications	Not suitable for load applications	mineral wool has different types, there are stable and not resistant to high loads		Suitable for use under high load
prone to decay	Durable, not subject to decay	durable	durable	durable
Affected by ultraviolet rays (it should not be left open for a long time)	Almost unaffected by ultraviolet radiation, but it is recommended to close it with a finishing material	UV resistant		Unaffected by ultraviolet light

Acquaintance with characteristics leads to the conclusion that mineral wool for walls and wooden floors is most suitable for warming the bath from the inside, and XPS slabs for concrete. Expanded clay can be called a universal material that is perfect for any of the floors, but for walls it cannot be used for internal insulation.

If you buy it, then it's perfect for a bath material with a foil layer, which contributes to the long-term retention of heat indoors according to the principle of a thermos. For example, some characteristics of foil mineral wool insulation of the Izorok company are shown in the table:

	Isolight-L	Isolight	Isovent	Isocor -C	Isophor	Isoruf
Density, kg/m³	40	50	90	105	110	150
Compressive strength at 10% deformation, kPa, not less than			20		25	50
Ultimate tensile strength of layers, kPa, not less than			4		4	12
Declared coefficient of thermal conductivity, W/m×°K	0,035	0,034	0,034	0,036	0,034	0,036
Thermal conductivity coefficient under operating conditions, W/m×°K	0,043	0,038	0,039	0,041	0.040	0,042
Water absorption by volume, %, no more	1.5	1.5	1.5	1.5	1.5	1
Humidity by weight, %, no more	0.5	0.5	0.5	0.5	0.5	0.5
Content of organic substances by mass, %, no more	2.5	2.5	4	4	4	4

Mineral wool is suitable for heat and sound insulation works for the walls, ceiling and floor of the bath. But on the floors it is still recommended to organize several layers of thermal insulation, the first of which should be expanded clay. The important thing is that rodents bypass it, which means that all other materials will be safe.

2. To fasten mats of mineral wool or other foil insulation, and create an integral hermetic coating of surfaces, it will be necessary to purchase a special foil tape.

3. The insulation is placed between the batten guides, which means that wooden bars will be required with a section that depends on the thickness of the insulation mats. If, as an example, we take the recommended insulation thickness of 100 mm, then the bars should have the same size on one of the sides, or double crate with a perpendicular arrangement of guides and a two-layer arrangement of mats.

4. The bars are attached to the walls with self-tapping screws, dowels or anchor fastenings(depending on the type wall material), therefore, it is necessary to purchase these elements of the required length, corresponding to both the dimensions of the guides and the required penetration into the walls - for wood - 20 ÷ 25 mm, for main walls - at least 40 mm.

5. If a heater without a foil layer is chosen, then a vapor barrier film is required to close it.

6. If the floor in the bath will be poured with a concrete screed, then in addition to the insulation you will need:

- cement and sand or ready mix;

- roofing material;

- reinforcing mesh;

— guides for beacons;

- polyethylene film ;

- damper tape.

The amount of materials will depend on the area of ​​​​the floor, ceiling and walls of the insulated room.

Having prepared everything you need, you can proceed to the insulation of the surfaces of the bath rooms.

Prices for popular types of heaters

insulation

Bath floor insulation

As you know, a bath can be built of wood or brick, which is why not only wood, but also concrete is arranged. The latter is most often poured in a brick bath, but sometimes they do it in a wooden one. In any case, the concrete floor always requires enhanced insulation.

Thermal insulation of floors in any bath should be given special attention, since it is they who must withstand high humidity and temperature changes between the rooms and the ground. Therefore, before proceeding with the installation of a multi-layer "pie" of a wooden floor or a concrete device, it is recommended to cover the entire surface under the structure of a middle fraction bath or slag.

The expanded clay layer will depend on the thickness of the walls of the building. It should be at least twice as thick as they are. It should be noted that if it is possible and allows space to make the expanded clay embankment thicker, then this will only increase the effectiveness of thermal insulation. If the bath is built of brick and installed on a concrete foundation, then it is recommended to fill it with expanded clay almost to the entire height of the foundation tape.

Floor covered with expanded clay "cushion"

Concrete floor

In order for the concrete floor of the bath to be warm, you need to do a series of operations that are carried out after laying the drain pipe (it must be raised in advance to the height of the future screed). The work consists of the following stages:

• The soil inside is well compacted, and the walls are covered with a waterproofing compound.
• Further, a layer of sand 80 ÷ 100 mm thick is poured onto the soil, moistened and compacted.
• A ruberoid is laid on top of the sand with a 150 ÷ ​​200 mm approach to the walls. The canvases are overlapped by 120 ÷ 150 mm, it is advisable to fasten them with waterproof tape or glue them together thermally using tar mastic.
• Further, expanded clay is poured onto the roofing material in such a way that the future floor screed is approximately 50 mm lower than the height of the foundation.

• Further, expanded clay is distributed over the entire surface in an even layer. Additionally, XPS slabs 50 mm thick can be laid on it - they have sufficient rigidity and can easily withstand all loads, do not forget that before laying expanded clay should be covered with dense polyethylene.

• A reinforcing mesh with cells from 50 to 100 mm is laid on the surface prepared in this way.
• Beacons are placed on top of the reinforcing belt, along which it will be aligned.
• If the sewer hole is located in the center of the room to be insulated, then the beacons are laid at a slight angle to it, so that when the concrete is leveled, a slight slope is formed from all sides of the room to the drain.
• Further, along the perimeter of the room on lower part damper tape is glued or otherwise attached to the walls. This measure will keep the screed from deformation during temperature changes, since compensates thermal expansion of the material.

• Prepared concrete is laid out on the reinforcing mesh, mixed from sand and cement in a ratio of 3: 1, and leveled with building rule. It is advisable to introduce special plasticizers that are commercially available into the composition - this will improve the quality of the coating. Often used for filling ready-made building mixtures for screed with an already optimized composition for rooms with high humidity or for external works .
• After hardening and screeding and gaining strength, it is impregnated with a waterproofing compound () of deep penetration.

• When the soil dries, ceramic tiles are laid. Another option is to install logs with wooden flooring on the concrete floor. Well processed boards on it should be fixed at a distance of 20 ÷ 30 mm from each other.

Wooden floor

For wooden baths, wooden floors are traditional. To arrange them correctly, in addition to insulation operations, it is necessary to provide high-quality waterproofing. Do not forget about the ventilation of the floor - for this, special channels must be left in the foundation.

Works on the device and floor insulation are carried out in such a sequence:

• First of all, it is brought to the bath drain pipe. The drain is usually located in the middle of the room, and all the insulation materials and the ceiling are arranged around it.

• A roofing material is laid on the compacted soil, which must rise to the walls by 150 ÷ ​​200 mm.
• Expanded clay is laid on top of the waterproofing. The greater its thickness, the better, but between its surface and the floor beams there must be a ventilation distance of at least 200 ÷ 250 mm.
• Next, on waterproofed with layers of roofing material, the protruding part of the foundation is laid with floor beams. Everybody wooden elements floors must be pre-treated.

• The cranial bars are nailed or screwed onto the lower parts of the floor beams, on which the subfloor boards will be mounted.

• The subfloor is covered with a vapor barrier film, which covers both the floor beams and the boards laid between them.
• Further, a heater is laid on the subfloor between the floor beams - it can be mineral wool or the same expanded clay.

• From above, the insulation material is closed with another layer of vapor barrier film.

Above - another layer of waterproofing

• Logs are fixed perpendicular to the floor beams, on which a wooden flooring is arranged. A hole is made in the middle - a drain pipe will go into it.

• On the style, slats are nailed, cut at an angle of 5 ÷ 7 degrees towards the drain - they will become a crate for mounting a waterproof wooden floor.
• Between the bars of the crate, the insulation is laid with a foil layer up and fastened together with foil tape. The thermal insulator must completely cover the bars of the crate.

• A non-leaking, well-fitted, fine wood flooring is laid on top at an angle.

Another option for insulation for wooden and concrete floors

In addition to those presented above, there are still a very large number different options bath floor insulation. You can briefly talk about another possible way to equip the floor using polystyrene foam. The method is more time consuming, but suitable for both concrete and wood flooring.

1 - soil;

2- layer of sand;

3 - foam plates;

4 - cement mortar with foam chips;

5 - waterproofing layer;

6 - cement mortar with vermiculite;

7 - concrete screed;

9 - boardwalk.

• In this option, the space under the future floor will have to be deepened by 500 ÷ 600 mm, and the soil at its bottom will be well tamped.
• Then, a layer of sand 50 ÷ 70 mm thick is poured to the bottom, which is wetted and compacted with a manual rammer.
• A dense waterproofing film is laid on top of this layer, which should completely cover the bottom and be on the walls by 200-300 mm. On its walls must be securely fixed.
• Instead of expanded clay, which was used in the first versions, a layer of expanded polystyrene boards is laid on the film. Its total thickness should be at least 150 ÷ ​​200 mm.
• Further, a screed made of cement mortar and foam chips in proportions of 2:1. The thickness of this layer should be 50 ÷ 70 mm. This layer will be not only insulating, but also reinforcing for the slab material laid below.
• Then a layer of waterproofing is laid again - for it you can use a dense plastic film or roofing felt. Cloths must be fastened together with waterproof tape.
• The next layer in this "pie" is a layer of concrete with vermiculite, mixed in proportions of 3: 1. Its thickness should be 50 ÷ 100 mm. is a natural material that has high thermal insulation properties. Insects and rodents never settle in it, it is not subject to rotting and decomposition. The vermiculite layer will significantly increase the thermal insulation of the floor.

It looks like a natural material - vermiculite

The table shows the proportions cement-vermiculite solutions and their performance characteristics:

Characteristics of solutions with vermiculite
Cement (kg)	40	30	250	200	150	120	100
Vermiculite (liter)	130	130	130	130	130	130	130
Water (liter)	42.5	41	40	39.5	39	38.5	38
Bulk weight (kg/m³) dry	60	50	43	39	34	31	29
Compressive strength (kg/cm²)	20	13	10	7	5	2	1
Dry Thermal Conductivity (W/m×°K)	0.13	0.11	0.1	0,092	0,083	0,075	0,07
Thermal conductivity at 5% humidity (W/m×°K)	0.17	0,145	0.13	0.12	0.105	0.09	0.08
Sound absorption coefficient at a frequency of 1000 Hz	0.37	0.51	0.54	0,56	0.6	0.64	0.73

• The frozen screed is strengthened reinforcing mesh with cells up to 100 mm, and beacons for the upper concrete screed are set on it. Beacons are fixed on concrete or gypsum mortar, at an angle of 5-7 degrees towards the drain.
• Further, concrete is laid out on this structure, in the same proportions and combinations with modifying additives, as described above. The thickness of the screed near the drain must be at least 50mm.
• After hardening the screed, ceramic tiles are laid on it or removable wooden decking wet floors.

Boards in such semi pinned at a distance of 15 ÷ 20 mm from each other - this will allow not only to quickly leave the water from the flooring, but also to dry the wood. In addition, removable ones can be periodically put outside for airing and drying, so you need to foresee their size in advance so that they can freely pass through the bath door.

Bath wall insulation

It is equally important, in addition to the floor, to reliably insulate the walls and ceiling of the bath rooms. The walls and ceiling of a brick or wooden bath are insulated according to the same principle, the only difference between them will be the thickness of the thermal insulation layer. Since wood has a lower thermal conductivity than brick, the latter will require a thicker layer of insulation to be fixed.

Particular attention to the insulation of the walls of the bath

The process of wall insulation is carried out as follows:

• The walls are treated with an antiseptic composition - it will protect them from the appearance and spread of mold and fungus.
• Next, it is necessary to fix the hydrovapor barrier film on the wall.
• The crate is mounted.
• Insulation is placed between the guides of the crate.
• The vapor barrier is attached.
• The slats of the counter-lattice are nailed - this will create the necessary ventilation gap.
• The facing material is installed.

The sequence of work is general, but for walls made of different materials, has its own characteristics.

brick walls

• Lathing bars are fixed to the brick wall in increments of 600 mm. The size of the beam section should be equal to the thickness of the selected insulation. Usually for brick wall taken for insulation of slag wool in mats, 100 mm thick, which means that the thickness of the batten guides should be 100 mm.

• Insulation is placed between the bars in the spacer. You can help fix it with a stretched zigzag nylon cord.
• The next layer is a hydro-vapor barrier film, which is fixed to the bars of the crate. The overlaps between the canvases (at least 150 mm) are glued with waterproof tape.
• Further, the rails of the counter-lattice are nailed to the bars.
• Then a foil insulation is stretched over the entire surface, 8 ÷ 10 mm thick, which is attached to the rails. Joints are sealed with foil tape.

• From above, the entire "pie" is sheathed with wooden clapboard, which is fixed to the same rails of the counter-lattice.

It should be noted that if foil insulation is used in the insulation process, then an additional layer of vapor barrier can be excluded, since this type of insulation material perfectly holds back steam.

Log wall insulation

1 - log wall;

2 - basalt insulation with a foil surface;

3 - crate bars;

4 - lining;

5 - ventilation gap between the insulation and lining.

The walls of a log bath in themselves have low thermal conductivity and retain heat well inside the room, provided that the joints of the logs at the corners and between themselves are well sealed. Therefore, insulation is carried out as follows:

• Basalt mineral wool with a foil layer is fixed to the wall, which should be facing the room. The thickness of the insulation is selected from 50 to 80 mm. You can fix it with special fasteners with wide caps - "fungi", which are recessed into the insulation.
• On top of the insulation, wooden bars of the crate are nailed vertically or horizontally.
• Further, the wall is sheathed, having a thickness of 10 mm - it is attached to the bars of the crate.

Timber wall insulation

A wall made of timber should be, just like a log wall, well insulated in itself, that is, all cracks and gaps are caulked with tow. It is easier to attach all the components of the insulation “pie” to it, since it has a flat surface into which fasteners are easily screwed or clogged. Warming it occurs in the following sequence:

• A crate made of a bar is attached to the wall, at a distance of 600 mm between the guides.
• Further, insulation material is laid between the bars - it is better if it is mineral wool.
• Then the whole structure is closed with a rolled foil insulation, which is fixed to the bars of the crate, and the joints of the individual sheets are glued together with foil tape.
• Counter rails are nailed on top of the bars, which will create a ventilation gap between the insulation and the lining.
• At the end of the process, the warming "pie" is sheathed with clapboard.

It must be said that there are other options for laying layers of insulation, but the above are considered the most popular and frequently used, as they are quite simple and have long been tested in practice.

Ceiling insulation

The ceiling can be mounted and insulated in three ways - you can choose any of them if it is suitable for the existing structure of the bath.

panel ceiling

This ceiling is mounted from panels, which already consist of all the layers necessary for vapor barrier, insulation and inner cladding, fixed on the supporting bars. As a heater in the panel, mineral wool is most often laid, having a thickness of at least 100 mm.

Shields are mounted at the bottom and rise up already in ready-made. A feature of such insulation is that insulation gaskets must also be laid between the finished panels - this process is carried out after the panels are fixed on the bath floor.

Lifting the panels to the top can be complicated by the fact that they are quite heavy when assembled, so very often they are lifted in parts and assembled at a height.

false ceiling

A false ceiling is fundamentally different in its design from a panel one, since its installation takes place according to a different principle, somewhat similar to wall insulation.

• The frame for such a ceiling is the beams of the attic floor, laid in increments of 600 mm.
• From the side of the attic room, waterproofing is laid on the floor beams, which should cover the entire area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe ceiling.
• On the waterproofing, also from the side of the attic, a wooden flooring is fixed.
• Insulation is laid between the floor beams by surprise.

• Then the insulation is closed with a vapor barrier or foil material, which is fixed to the floor beams.
• The last step is the ceiling lining. wooden clapboard.

There is another option for insulation false ceiling, with the use of other insulating materials, for example, expanded clay. In this case, almost all work is carried out from the side of the attic, except for the finishing lining of the ceiling surface with clapboard.

Decking ceiling

The deck ceiling also differs from the two already mentioned in its design, in particular the fact that it is laid directly on the walls of the room, that is, in principle, it does not rely on floor beams. For such a ceiling, boards with a thickness of at least 30 mm are used.

From the side of the attic, a vapor barrier and insulation are laid on the style of the boards, which are covered from above with a waterproofing film and plywood or plank flooring.

The advantages of this design include the speed and ease of installation, but this version of the ceiling can only be used when insulating a small bath room, with distances between walls no more than 2.5 ÷ 2.7 m.

A detailed publication on the description of all the materials necessary for this and step-by-step instructions can be found on the pages of our portal by clicking on the recommended link.

If the installation of thermal insulation and auxiliary materials is carried out correctly, then the heat in the bath rooms will remain for a very long time, which will help to significantly save on fuel.

In conclusion - a detailed video tutorial on warming a bathhouse built using frame technology.

Video: warming and finishing a frame bath

Insulation of the inside of the steam room allows you to improve the quality of bathing and wellness procedures and save on paying for fuel for the stove. Therefore, each owner of the bath should plan such work. And in this article we will consider step-by-step instructions that allow you to equip internal insulation with your own hands.

What needs to be insulated in the bath

First of all - the seams between the logs or timber. Even a rounded log allows air to pass through the joints, which will cool the room and prevent the steam room from heating up to a high temperature. But this work is done during the construction of the log house.

After assembling the log house, it is necessary to insulate window and door openings by installing reliable and heat-resistant enclosing structures based on double-glazed windows and heat-resistant panels. Well, in the final, the steam room is warmed from the inside. Moreover, this work can be divided into three stages:

• Floor insulation, because the bathhouse stands on freezing ground, and the basement alone will not be enough to protect the room from frost.
• Increasing the heat resistance of the ceiling. All the heat accumulates in this zone, so low heat resistance will destroy the entire microclimate of the bath.
• Wall insulation. During construction, only the seams between the logs are insulated. And this is quite enough for a comfortable stay indoors, but not enough for a bath. In this case, an additional layer of insulation will have to be filled on the walls.

As you can see, it's not very easy job, but there is nothing particularly complicated in this matter. You just need to study the technology of arrangement and choose the right insulation.

Before insulating the steam room, the owner of the bath must choose the right heat-insulating material, focusing on the following recommendations:

First, the insulator must exhibit high stopping power. The heat transfer coefficient must not rise above 0.2 W/(m K). And that's just for flooring. And for it is better to use a material with a coefficient of 0.2 W / (m K).

Secondly, the insulator should not react to moisture. Especially floor material. For walls and ceilings, we can use a membrane or reflector that cuts off moisture, but in the case of the floor, this material will not pass.

Thirdly, an open (floor) insulator must have high mechanical strength. There are no special requirements for walls and attic floors. Here the characteristics of the material can be improved due to the external finish.

Fourthly, the warming of the steam room involves constant contact of the material with the area high temperatures. Some fans manage to heat up the room to 100-120 degrees Celsius, and 75-80 ° C is considered normal temperature. Therefore, the insulation should not melt or catch fire even in the case of a long, many hours of stay in this temperature range.

Fifthly, the material must be absolutely neutral to the human body. The release of harmful substances and the provocation of allergic reactions are excluded in principle. People go to the bath for health, not for new sores.

Eventually, the best option Insulation for the field should be recognized as granular expanded clay. He is not afraid of any mechanical load or moisture. It is better to put ordinary or foil mineral (basalt) wool on the walls and ceiling. It will withstand heat, and a finishing layer will protect it from moisture and possible mechanical impact.

Styrofoam, expanded polystyrene, foil polyethylene are not suitable for warming the steam room - they cannot withstand heating even up to 70 degrees Celsius.

Well, now that we have selected the materials, you can proceed to the direct insulation of the steam room from the inside, having previously studied the step-by-step instructions for the floor, ceiling and walls.

How to insulate the floor - a layered review

To do this, we will have to form a multi-layer structure consisting of waterproofing, thermal insulation and finishing in the direction from the ground. The first layer is waterproofing. Formed in the form polyethylene film, which is laid on the prepared soil. Moreover, the preparation consists in adding a layer of sand, with a thickness of 15 centimeters.

The second layer is thermal insulation. It is formed on the basis of expanded clay bedding. The thickness of this layer is usually equal to twice the thickness of the walls and ranges from 30 to 40 centimeters. Moreover, upon completion of the formation of the bedding layer, we must reach the level of the first crown of the log cabin of the bath.

Next, a reinforcing mesh with 20 cm cells is laid on the expanded clay and the screed is poured using sand-cement mortar with filler. Optimal Thickness screeds - from 5 to 8 centimeters. At the same time, along the perimeter of the floor, at the level of the future plinth, it is necessary to fill a waterproofing foil skirt that protects the logs from contact with concrete.

To finish the heat-resistant floor, tiles or boards laid on the crate are used.

We insulate the ceiling - step by step instructions

To insulate the ceiling in the steam room, a completely different heat insulator is needed - foil mineral wool. It withstands heating up to 700 degrees Celsius and can easily endure the usual temperature in this area of ​​the steam room, which does not rise above 160-180 ° C.

The finishing process itself begins with covering the ceiling with an antiseptic primer that protects the boards from fungus and mold. The second step is the stuffing of the crate boards on the ceiling, the depth of which should be equal to the thickness of the insulation (usually 10 centimeters). The step of laying the boards is equal to the width of a standard strip of mineral wool.

The third step is laying the insulation. After the assembly of the crate is completed, the space between the boards is filled with mineral wool, which is laid with foil outward (toward the floor). And all joints are carefully glued with foil tape. After completion of work on the ceiling, there should be no gaps.

The final step - installation on top of the crate finishing board(lining) or plywood panels. Moreover, in this case, it is necessary to read the description of the specification for the lining - options from pine and spruce and other resinous trees are not suitable in this case. The ideal lining for a bath is made from hardwood deciduous trees.

How to insulate walls in a steam room - an overview of the process

The arrangement of vertical thermal insulation on the walls of the bath does not require the use of expensive foil mineral wool. In this case, it is enough to take ordinary mineral wool and aluminum foil, which will serve as a good vapor barrier and screen from high temperatures.

The installation process itself is as follows:

• We impregnate the walls with an antiseptic - it will protect the log house from rot and fungus.
• We fill boards with a thickness of 3-4 centimeters and a width of 2-3 cm more than the depth of the insulation on the walls. The step of placing the boards should match the width of the mineral wool roll. At the end, all boards must be impregnated with an antiseptic.
• We lay mineral wool on dry logs (the antiseptic must dry), filling the spaces between the boards.
• We stuff aluminum foil over the crate, rolling it in horizontal stripes from the bottom up. In this case, the upper strip should overlap with the lower one (2-3 centimeters will be enough). And as fasteners it is better to use staples (from a stapler). Moreover, it is better to glue the joints with foil tape.
• We stuff planks 2 centimeters thick on the boards, previously impregnated with an antiseptic. So you will form a counter-lattice. And at the end, on top of these planks, we mount a hardwood lining.

Such a scheme allows you to assemble a very effective thermal insulation, protected from mechanical stress by lining. Therefore, almost all steam rooms are finished according to this scheme.