DIY metal window frames. How to make beautiful window frames with your own hands - step-by-step instructions and drawings

For buildings from log house carved frames just asking for registration window openings. Their self-production- not at all a whim or an attempt to save money, because really good craftsmen There are very few wood carvings now.

Minimum required tools

The manufacture of platbands, in contrast to artistic wood carving, involves repeated execution of the same type of operations, resulting in a rather primitive repeating pattern. Therefore, most of the work is done with an electric tool: this not only increases the processing speed, but also achieves uniform quality in different areas.

1 - jigsaw; 2 - drill; 3 - belt sander; 4 - vibration grinder; 5 - manual router

The main work is done with a jigsaw and drill. The tool must be reliable and of high quality, capable for a long time be in continuous use. To clean and polish products, it is better to use an electric grinder, at least a simple belt grinder. Quick finishing of the relief is possible using vibration-type machines.

If you intend to add additional small parts edges of your product, you cannot do without a router. Slopes, chamfers and figured borders can also be done manually, but only if you have a variety of chisels, cutters and specific skills in working with wood.

How to choose wood

For platbands the best way Hard wood species are suitable: oak, birch, ash, maple, alder. Since the thickness of the finished product is relatively small (30-45 mm), hard rocks will be less susceptible to rotting and drying out, and therefore will retain their properties longer. appearance.

If you plan to decorate carved frames with flat-relief elements with many small details, you should give preference to softer species with a fine texture pattern. Linden, poplar, aspen, walnut and spruce are suitable.

The wood for platbands must be selected and, preferably, chamber drying, humidity not higher than 12%. The presence of traces of warping or other pronounced defects or large branches is not allowed. Ideally, you should immediately order calibrated boards with a width of 100-150 mm and a thickness of 30-40 mm.

The length of the blanks should be sufficient to completely cover the window opening horizontally and vertically with an overlap in each direction of 1.5 times the width of the board. It is important that you initially calculate the number of required blanks and, in addition to them, purchase several more boards of the cheapest species for training and practicing carving skills.

Making templates and stencils

Almost any wood carving begins with applying a design to the workpiece according to a pre-made template or stencil. There are plenty of thread diagrams on the Internet; the main difficulty comes down to transferring the lines onto the part exactly and without distortion. Let us warn you right away: do not chase the high complexity of the drawing. A set of even the most primitive elements in the correct sequence and with well-chosen indents impresses with its modesty and quality of processing.

The first option for applying markings is to make a small pattern from plastic or hard sheet material, on which a single element of a repeating pattern is applied. Such a template is sequentially applied to the workpiece and outlined with a pencil.

It is also possible to produce a one-piece template. You need to take a strip of paper of the appropriate width, fold it like an accordion several times, and then cut out the pattern according to the principle of a Christmas tree garland. The resulting tape must be glued onto cardboard or LMDF, and then cut out the desired shapes. This method is welcome for a significant amount of work.

The resulting stencil is subsequently simply applied to the board and outlined with a soft pencil. Ideally, rich but precise cutting lines and boundaries for further processing should remain. When marking out the details, you need to take into account the layout of the pattern so that the platbands form a solid and complete outline, and the repeating pattern is not interrupted inappropriately.

Sampling through holes

The first step is to trim the edges of the workpiece and make holes in the center. Everything is simple with the edges: we cut out the excess with a jigsaw, retreating 1-1.5 mm outward from the marking line for subsequent processing. To cut out shapes in the center of the plane, drill the part at the very line of each cutout, then select the inner contour with a jigsaw.

For making large holes, it is wise to use core drills. In this case, it is necessary to mark on the template not the contours, but the centers of the circles into which the centering drill bit of the crown will be installed. A similar technique can also be used in the manufacture oval holes or elements with small rounding radii: a complex bend is drilled with an appropriate radius, and everything else is cut out with a jigsaw.

When the excess parts of the workpiece are cut out, the cut edges must be carefully processed with a rasp and then with sandpaper. It is recommended to use bars of square, round and rounded profiles, which are filled with sandpaper. This way you'll be less likely to fray the edges and will be able to get straight corners on each edge.

Rectangular ribs look rather rough, so they are smoothed with chamfers and slopes of different profiles. The easiest way to diversify the product is to go along the external and internal contours of the casing with a figured cutter. But manual processing options are also possible:

  • to remove a chamfer, walk along straight edges with chips, keeping the angle of inclination of the handle to the part constant;
  • a semicircular convex bevel can also be made with chips, changing the inclination of the blade, or use a concave cutter for this;
  • a concave semicircular joint is made with a chisel or cutter with a rounded edge. Such elements must be cut out in stages, removing small chips layer by layer and carefully controlling the depth of the tool and the tilt of the handle;
  • if the descent has a profile complex shape with several convex, concave and straight elements, this profile is divided into several stages and cut in a strict sequence, starting with the widest outer part and ending with the deepest and shallowest tier.

Blind carving: applying relief

Once you're done with the shaping, it's a good idea to vary the remaining flat elements with simple designs or floral patterns. Here are the simplest working methods:

  1. A groove (branch, groove) is made with a narrow chisel or cutter with a square, triangular or concave blade shape. The carving is carried out strictly along the line, the relief is selected with small shavings and then polished.
  2. The leaf has several small grooves imitating veins, trimmed with a disc knife. From the center between the veins to each of them, small notches are made with a semicircular chisel, imitating the body of the leaf, then the outer contour is drawn with a thin cutter.
  3. The flat areas adjacent to the descent can be diversified with blind carvings of small ornaments. For example, cut two furrows from the edge, forming a triangle with it, and punch an asterisk in the center.

Wood processing and installation of platbands

Due to carved elements wooden product has a larger surface shape, due to which it is more susceptible to aging. Therefore, the wood should be specially treated.

First of all, carved items to be placed on the facade should be soaked in an antiseptic composition for 5-8 hours, for which you can dig a small trench in the ground and put a plastic film there for temporary arrangement of the bath. After soaking, the parts are dried for several days, stacked with pads every 30-40 cm.

When the wood has dried, it must be thoroughly sanded, achieving smoothness and finally eliminating all traces of sawing and carving. Protective composition selected according to type facade finishing, it could be like alkyd enamel, and polyurethane varnish, tinted or transparent.

Finally, for proper installation of the platbands, the window opening should be framed with a flat strip 10-15 mm thick and such a width that its outer edge is not visible through the carved pattern along the contour of the platband. The purpose of this strip is to eliminate the remaining unevenness of the wall and provide a reliable base for securing the carved element. Often this strip is painted in a color that contrasts with the coating of the casing itself to make the pattern more expressive.

Platbands can be attached with straight or oblique cutting, which depends on the type and density of the pattern. Oblique trimming is performed with a cut on each side at 45°, while the cutting line should pass through identical sections of the pattern and not intersect the figures cut out inside.

With direct trimming, a horizontal element is located between two vertical ones. Their top edge should be 1-2 cm above the crossbar if the cut end is straight. It is also possible to produce on the edge of the thread according to general scheme, if during the manufacturing process you carry out fitting and precise adjustment of the platbands. The fastening of the platbands itself is elementary - ordinary rough nails without a head are used for it. It is only important that the nail pierces the platband and the strip, protruding at least 5 mm from the inside.

Reading time ≈ 4 minutes

Decoration of the facade of the house - important step. Since ancient times, people have tried to make the face of their home unique by covering the space near the door and windows with intricate carvings. Our ancestors gave every turn they made sacred meaning and hoped that these golden laces would protect the home from penetration dark forces. The fashion for antiquity leads to the fact that today ancient traditions have become again in demand. In this article we will talk about how to make window frames with your own hands.

Project

Any business should start with a project. First, they draw the façade of the building, taking into account all the actual details. Then you need to make a drawing of carved window frames. You can also use the drawings and diagrams presented on the site.

Using a visualization program, if you have one, you can make a 3D project of the house. It will show everything in its entirety and will allow you to evaluate how appropriate the wooden trim you like on the windows is.

When project documentation ready, preparing a set of tools that will be useful for the upcoming work.

  • screwdriver;
  • feather drill for wood (12 mm);
  • a jigsaw, preferably with a soft start, without it it will be difficult to cut out complex elements;
  • Sander.

You should take care of the material for future platbands. Traditionally, high quality pine boards are used, which have a minimum number of knots. If there are knots on the surface of the boards, then the cuts must be made in such a way as to prevent a knot from getting into place.

Sawing out platbands

The manufacture of window frames begins with cuts that need to be made from the inside. First, holes are drilled along the contour of the pattern, where it is planned to make openwork patterns in the future. The video shows that when working, the drill must be held perpendicular to the surface of the board.

When the end-to-end patterns are ready, cut out the outer contour.

The tool must be guided from one end to the other, the direction does not matter. Pre-cuts are made in the middle part.

The result is a finished part for window decoration. Next, a similar one is made in mirror image to be used on the opposite side.

Surface grinding

To give the wood an optimal appearance, it is processed using a sanding machine, the sanding wheel of which should have a grit of 80. The result is a smooth surface, ready for painting.

Primer and painting

Before painting works The wood is treated with an antiseptic that will protect it from rotting and bark beetles. This composition must be applied to the entire surface, without even missing hard to reach places. Scrupulousness in work will allow the platbands to last for many years.

When the composition is applied, you need to thoroughly dry the workpieces, and only then begin painting the parts. The best option- water-based paint intended for woodworking. Platbands for windows wooden house painted in the color stated in the project. For this project we use paints of two colors: white and cherry.

The work is carried out using 2 brushes: wide (50 mm) and narrow (20 mm). The first is for painting external surfaces, the second is for internal ones.

It is necessary to carefully paint over the parts, leaving no uncovered areas. After the first layer has dried, apply the second.

One layer is enough. They are careful in their work. Smudges can completely ruin the overall picture. Products should dry in normal conditions- on open air.

Assembly

It is better to assemble blanks into a single composition using horizontal surface. This is much more convenient than directly on the window.

Look at all these window frames in a wooden house, photos of which are posted on this page. These are not just beautiful attributes wooden facade that have come down to us from the past.

It has not only a decorative, but also a purely practical purpose. We will now look at the simplest platband on both sides.

The practical significance of platbands in a wooden house

So, the window frames in a wooden house, the photos of which you see, are not just beautiful planks on the sides of the window.

Their very first and most important practical role is that they close the gaps between the window frame and log wall Houses. That is, the platband in this situation is a decorative covering that covers the jute or moss with which the gap is blocked.

After all, in principle, every wooden house is similar to the other. You can try to distinguish them by roofing material, For example. But what to do in winter, when all the roofs are covered with a thick layer of snow?

It was the platbands that were the very distinctive sign by which houses in a village or city could be distinguished when there were no signs with street names and house numbers.

And even now you can often hear how, when asked to show the way, they answer: drive until the turn, and there you will see a house “with swans on the windows.”

Decorative trim in a wooden house

And finally, the trim, made in a traditional style, is simple even for the simplest home.

Look and imagine that you removed all these carved decorations. What remains? Just boards and logs. And with platbands, any facade becomes alive and attractive.

Platbands for windows in a wooden house - photo gallery

But here you can choose from a wide variety of platbands for windows in a wooden house, photos of which were provided to us by readers.

Look, choose and use the most interesting options in your façade.

Wooden window frames - element decorative finishing facade of private houses, which is more common in rural areas. They embody the traditions of original Russian architecture and are true works of art.

It is difficult to find beautiful carved platbands on sale, since this type of facade decoration is gradually losing its popularity, and there are fewer and fewer craftsmen who know the intricacies of their creation, and their services are not cheap. But connoisseurs of traditional home decoration can decorate their home themselves by making the trim with their own hands. Of course, this work will require patience, training and preliminary study of the technology. Helpful tips for making and installing wooden platbands you will find in this article.

What are window frames needed for?

Platbands will decorate the facade and keep the house warm

Previously, people believed that certain patterns on platbands were endowed with magical properties and are able to protect the inhabitants of the house from the evil eye. Now they are valued mainly for their decorative qualities: the ability to emphasize the style of the house, give it a complete look and enliven the facade. In the case of log houses, this type of window decoration is the only possible one, since plastic in combination with wood will look out of place, and the building will lose its flavor.

However, platbands also have a functional purpose. This window element protects the room from heat loss, drafts, dust and noise by closing the gaps between the opening and the frame. The only drawback of wooden platbands is the need for them correct processing and careful selection of wood.

Types of wooden platbands

The production of platbands depends on their design features and installation method. By design, they are shaped, flat, figured and openwork. Flat ones do not have threads and are easy to manufacture; shaped and figured ones have a convex surface with a non-through pattern applied to it and are produced on a milling machine. But handmade products are valued higher, since the equipment cannot create an end-to-end openwork pattern.

Wooden frames are installed in two ways:

  • Overhead – the structure is secured with metal or liquid (adhesive) nails and screws.
  • Telescopic - the casing is supported on protrusions that connect to the grooves of the window frame. This method is more complicated than the previous one, but the appearance of the product is not spoiled by traces of fasteners.

Design options

Varieties visual design There are also quite a few. We will look at specific patterns and the technology for creating them below.

Wood for making platbands

The material must be easy to process

To make wooden window frames that will last you a long time, you need to choose the right type of wood for them. Suitable for this purpose: larch, linden, oak, pine, beech, walnut and fruit trees(apple tree, cherry tree). You can decide on the option that is suitable for you by assessing the qualities of these breeds:

  • Hardwoods such as beech and oak will last longer, but are more difficult to process. Cutting patterns from these materials will take a lot of time.
  • Soft varieties (alder, linden) are easier to process, but require mandatory impregnation with moisture-repellent compounds.
  • Larch is resistant to rotting, but very fragile.
  • Coniferous species (pine, spruce) are considered the “golden mean”. They are durable and yet flexible.
  • Fruit varieties are suitable for making small parts - overlays.

Advice! In areas with significant temperature changes, high humidity or, conversely, excessive dry air, it is recommended to use platbands only made of hard wood.

Tools required for work

The production of carved frames will require the use of tools designed for woodworking, namely:

  • chisels (semicircular, flat, curved at an angle);
  • knives with ground and wedge-shaped blades;
  • jigsaw;
  • drills;
  • milling machine.

You can’t do without a ruler, pencil or marker and a pattern with a pattern. You will also need a tool for filing spikes. To make it yourself, you need to take 3 slats, place 2 hacksaw blades between them and fix the structure. This tool allows you to simultaneously saw through the eyes and tenons of the platbands.


Set of chisels

Meaning and creation of patterns

The appearance and meaning of this decorative element depends on which pattern you choose. When the art of creating platbands arose, patterns were created not only for the sake of beauty, but also endowed with meaning. Here are interpretations of some of them:

  • the sun is associated with energy and life, it is placed on the kokoshnik - the upper part of the casing;
  • the snake is the embodiment of wisdom;
  • the cross is designed to create harmony between spiritual and material values;
  • the bird is a symbol that unites different times;
  • wings represent strength;
  • plants represent unity with nature;
  • earrings placed at the bottom of the structure speak of the hospitality of the owners.

Having decided on the desired images, find the corresponding patterns on the Internet and print them out. Make slits in the diagram and transfer it from paper to plywood or thick cardboard, so you will get templates for carved platbands. You can read more about making templates (stencils) in.


Platband templates

The main methods of creating window decorations are slotted and applied carvings. In the first case, using platband templates, the pattern is transferred to wood, and then individual structural parts are cut out of it. In the second case, the platband is first made from solid boards, then overlay patterns are cut out from the patterns and fastened with nails, creating a three-dimensional pattern. The ornaments of all parts must be harmoniously combined.

The upper part of the structure is made in the form of a kokoshnik, the lower part is in the form of a towel, and two sidewalls are placed between them. The parts are connected to each other with spikes. The upper part needs to be made 1 cm larger than the lower part and given a slope to prevent moisture stagnation.


Kokoshnik made with slotted carvings

When cutting out patterns, movements are made along the wood fibers, otherwise the material will quickly crack. It is more convenient to make round elements with an electric drill. The ornament is made up of repeating patterns, it is desirable that among them there are more rounded parts - they are easier to make.

Basic Rules

  • The design should not interfere with opening the window. To achieve this, the dimensions of the internal frame of the platband are made a couple of centimeters larger than the window frame.
  • It is necessary to eliminate uneven walls before installing platbands. To do this, wooden slats are nailed around the perimeter of the window, adjusted to each other.
  • For work, use only well-dried wood.
  • All windows are decorated in the same style.

Preparing for work

To make wooden window frames with your own hands, first of all measure all sides of the window and select durable boards the right size, at least 3-4 cm thick. This thickness ensures the strength of the structure without interfering with the opening of the window sashes. The width is chosen depending on the pattern; standardly it ranges from 15 to 30 cm in different parts clypeus.

It is better to compose a pattern from large elements, since too small details, when viewed from afar, lose out, merging into a single whole. In addition, creating a small pattern takes more time. Before cutting out the “finish” version, it is worth testing window trim templates on unnecessary pieces of wood. This will allow you to “get your teeth into” and check whether the patterns you have chosen look good on the material.


Practice cutting out a pattern on a small sample.

Installation of platbands on windows

The cut out parts of the structure are polished sandpaper and connect. Fastening is carried out using the tongue-and-groove method; both parts are coated with synthetic glue before joining.

The installation of platbands on windows differs depending on whether the structure is attached to a wooden or stone facade. To work with stone walls you will need:

  • mounting syringe;
  • liquid silicone to eliminate cracks;
  • drill and drill bits with pobedite coating;
  • self-tapping screws;
  • wooden choppers for screws;
  • a brush and paint to match the color of the casing for covering the fastener heads.
Finished structure before installation

Window trims wooden house require another set of tools and materials, consisting of:

  • nails 5 cm long;
  • liquid silicone and a syringe for applying it;
  • hammer;
  • suitable paint and brush.

In addition to the above, in both cases you will need a stepladder.

The finished structure is mounted on the wall using self-tapping screws or nails, making sure that it fits tightly to the edges window slopes. All formed cracks and loose joints are coated with silicone, then the fastener heads are hidden, painting them with a thin brush. Do-it-yourself wooden platbands are ready.

Final finishing

Although the carved platbands themselves look original, correctly selected decor will make them more attractive. In addition, wood processing is needed to increase its service life. Ready product It is recommended to impregnate with a moisture-repellent composition, paint or varnish.


Painted platbands

Among the ways to diversify the design are: painting, firing and painting in contrasting colors. Painting can repeat patterns and focus attention on individual details, and contrasting coloring looks good when combining several types of carvings in a product. No less beautiful trims on windows are obtained by firing. Wood processing blowtorch or gas burner forms spectacular tan marks on its surface.


Contrasting coloring of elements

Whatever processing method you choose, remember that the structure needs careful care and periodic minor repairs, then the platbands will decorate the facade of the building and delight you for many years.

Putting platbands on windows with your own hands is the easiest and cheapest way to give the outside appearance of a house individuality and express its character, which has survived from antiquity to the present day, see fig. In the old days, an illiterate stranger, guided by the platbands, could find the home of the desired craftsman, specialist, official, government office or hotspot. Nowadays, the functions of window frames are mainly decorative, but the patterns on them have not lost their meaning, see below.

Story

The platbands on the windows of the dwellings of peoples who practiced mass wooden architecture appeared simultaneously with windows “glazed” with fish bladder and mica. Initially, their purpose was purely functional: to cover the insulation and windproofing - to caulk - in the gap between the window and the frame.

Platbands with sacred patterns were first noted among the ancient Celts, but the true flowering of the art of creating carved platbands is associated with the unification of the reviving Rus' under the leadership of Moscow and the overthrow Mongol yoke; Russian masters in wood carving had no equal. The Bolsheviks wrote down window frames as relics of philistinism and declared a war of extermination on them, but nowadays artistically designed window frames are experiencing a rebirth.

This article is intended, as far as possible, to satisfy reader demand on how to make beautiful window frames with your own hands, how to give them artistic expressiveness and install in place.

Design

Types of design of window casings are shown in the photo. Overhead trims (item 1) are attached to the wall; plug-in or box-shaped (item 2) - to the slopes of the window opening (this is better) or in the window frame (worse). Overhead trims are placed on windows flush with the wall; insert - on windows in niches.

Based on the capabilities of insulation and protection of the window insulation, the platbands are divided into a frame (item 3) and a portal, item. 5. The portal frame is often complemented by a visor. The frame frame practically does not protect the window insulation/seal from getting wet and is placed on windows from the inside or on windows facing under a canopy, for example, onto a veranda.

Installation

Traditionally, the installation of platbands is carried out by fastening them to the wall or window slopes. Now for this it is best to use self-tapping screws (4.2-6)x(80x150), if the wall is not wooden, use propylene dowels. The attachment points are placed as evenly as possible at the rate of 1 point per 5-7 square meters. dm of the surface of the clypeus, outlined by its outer contour. When attaching to slopes, the attachment points are placed in a row with a pitch of 150-300 mm (depending on the mass of the platband, which, in turn, depends on its artistic execution, see below) along the center line of the part of the load-bearing (base) wall protruding outward. The holes with fastener heads are either hidden in the ligature of the upper levels (see below), or they are puttied and painted over with the main tone.

Platbands-"telescopes"

IN modern houses, externally insulated and covered with siding/lining, the windows are often placed flush with the base wall, otherwise the window will completely sink into the wall. In this case, there is nothing left to attach the platband except the window frame. For such a case, the so-called. telescopic trims, but they will stay quite securely only on windows in reinforced frames intended for regions with harsh climates; the frame material - reinforced PVC or modified wood (see below) does not matter much.

The whole “telescopic” nature of the platbands comes down to installing them on locally cut additional elements, rigidly connected to the window frame. The most reliable platbands are on grooved extensions, on the left in Fig. Telescopic platband systems with a groove in the frame (e.g. on the right in the figure) are not intended for outdoor installation: a gust of wind can break the casing, breaking the frame at the same time.

If the window frame is modern, wooden or PVC with a groove for a key, telescopic platbands can be installed on such a window without removing it. If the PVC window is on a wall with inaccessible base surface is not intended for installing a platband, then there is no other option but to remove the window, place a box under the platband in the opening, attaching it to the base wall, and reinstall the window. In this case, the platband box must have grooves that fit into the places where the window anchors are attached.

Wood for platbands

Painted, carved and slotted wooden platbands (see below) are made from high-quality straight-grain pine or larch without knots. The thickness of the boards is from 30 mm. A knotted spruce is not suitable: the outside knots will soon appear under any covering, and then they will begin to fall out.

Carved frames require wood suitable for carving - fine-grained, viscous, fairly dense - and resistant to external conditions. The best species for this are oak and beech, but they are quite expensive. Linden, alder and aspen are suitable after 2-fold impregnation (the first impregnation is until it penetrates through) with a water-polymer emulsion; oil, silicone and mineral (borax solution) impregnation against rotting does not increase the viscosity and surface strength of wood. Birch is absolutely unsuitable: no amount of impregnation on the outside will save it from being damaged by fungi.

Note: a magnificent carved frame is very easily obtained from the cheapest plywood, twice impregnated with a water-polymer emulsion. For more information about plywood trims, see the end.

Shield for platband

Sometimes one board is not enough for the desired width of the platband, but fastening 2-3 boards into a shield with steel fasteners in this case is a gross mistake. A wooden panel on the steel outside will soon split, then the fasteners in the gap between the platband and the wall will rust and crumble. But it is also impossible to assemble boards into a panel for a platband like furniture without additional reinforcement, because a cabinet or table is not designed to withstand strong winds, rain and snow. Shields are made from boards for the casing. Thus, see also Fig. below:

  1. Spread on a table or workbench plastic film with a 3-fold margin for the width of the future shield;
  2. The boards are placed in a bag on film and glued with PVA or waterproof wood glue;
  3. When the glue sets, the package of boards is wrapped in film;
  4. Plywood cheeks are placed under the bag in film and placed on it;
  5. The package with the cheeks is tightly wrapped with linen cord;
  6. Pairs of wooden wedges are placed under the turns of the cord so that the cord is stretched as tightly as possible;
  7. After 2-3 hours of complete drying of the glue, the cord, cheeks and film are removed;
  8. From underneath ( back side) the shield is further reinforced by stuffing 40x20 bars, laid flat across the boards.

Note: boards are assembled into a package, observing the rules of alternating orientation of layers of wood, just like furniture panels, see on the left in Fig.

Not a tree

Wooden unpainted trim does not look good on any wooden wall, even if its material imitates the color of wood well. In such cases, it is better to either install simple PVC trims complete with the window (on the left in the figure), or more expensive polyurethane trims, the rest pos. in Fig. Polyurethane trims can imitate external stucco molding and painted multi-level cut-out trims (on the right in the figure); the latter option can be assembled using glue from elements purchased separately.

Various arts

Artistically designed window frames can be made, firstly, framed (item 1 in the figure below) or in a frame, pos. 2; functionality, i.e. window seal protection, both are the same. Platbands in salaries are the most informative and sacredly significant, which we will discuss below. In addition to functionality, frame trims are mainly decorative.

From the point of view of woodworking, frame trims, in order of increasing complexity, are divided into:

  • Cut-out - boards or panels are cut along a figured contour, pos. 3.
  • Slotted, pos. 4 – a pattern is cut into the boards/board. They are relatively rare, because fragile.
  • Multi-level slotted, pos. 5, up to 5 or more levels - sawn patterned modules are attached to a strong simple or cut-out base. In addition to strength, multi-level platbands are good because powerful fasteners to the wall are hidden in the ligature of the upper levels, and they themselves upper levels Can be secured with small, inconspicuous fasteners.
  • With applied relief details, pos. 6. Nowadays, technologically they may turn out to be simpler than cut-out ones, because looks quite appropriate on a tree, respectively. painted purchased polyurethane relief.
  • With low convex thread, pos. 7 – they look great, but are very labor-intensive, you need to choose a lot of wood.
  • With low pressed thread, pos. 8 – less labor intensity, but the work is more difficult, because It is very difficult to correct visible flaws.

Note: on pos. 8 shows a casing with the so-called. pillow carving - the corners of the protruding fragments are smoothed. Platbands with cushion carvings look almost as luxurious as those with convex carvings, but they are almost as labor-intensive.

As for the colorful decor, the platbands can be painted, pos. 3, unpainted varnished, pos. 4, or natural look, pos. 7, painted in different colors by levels, pos. 5, 6, and painted entirely, pos. 8. Painted frames are almost exclusively made from carved frames, while natural ones are made from particularly resistant wood species (bog oak, etc.)

About the sculpture of platbands

In general, platbands with sculptural carvings, high (round, semicircular) and low, see Fig., could not be mentioned in an article with the tag “do-it-yourself”. Anyone who knows how to carve wood like that doesn’t need an explanation on how to make and install a frame on a window. But there is one point that is little known to experienced craftsmen.

MDF - have you heard? In fact, this is tracing paper with MDF, medium density fiberboard, medium density wood board. The well-known fiberboard is low density fiberboard, low-density wood board. And there is also HDF, high density fibreboard, which is little known in our country due to its relative high cost. All these materials are completely environmentally friendly, because... are obtained by hot pressing of wood pulp without a synthetic binder, the only difference is in the temperature and pressure of the press.

So, HDF, firstly, subject to 2-fold impregnation with a water-polymer emulsion, is resistant in outdoor conditions. And in terms of viscosity and density, it is suitable for fine wood carving, but is much cheaper than wood species for artistic carving and is produced in large, absolutely homogeneous slabs. HDF does not cut as well as walnut, but quite similar to oak and beech.

Salary

The full set of elements of the Russian frame frame is shown on the left in Fig. The names of its parts are also given there. Certain modules may be missing in specific products, because they duplicate each other in significance.

The main sacred significance is the teremets with a kokoshnik and an apron; As a rule, the heads and overhangs carry the informational and functional load. A tympanum with an apron is usually amulets against evil, and a kokoshnik with a frill, chasuble and a window sill are talismans that attract goodness. In old Rus' there were specific figures for both, not only in every village, but in almost every house. What is common to good is a circle with radii, rays or wings (the Sun), a bird (the firebird is the heir of either the phoenix or the simurgh), the horse is a symbol of prosperity and social status, and the fish is the original positive symbol of Christianity. Universal amulets against evil - a stylized floral ornament based on useful plants.

Note: the wing, as the part of the bird that carries it in the sky, has the same sacred meaning as the bird. The Winged Sun is a good messenger. The Christian six-winged seraph is nothing more than a pagan winged Sun with an angelic face.

In the European-Eastern tradition, universal symbols of goodness are the cartouche and the medallion. The medallion, of course, is the Sun, and the cartouche is either a stylized tree of life, or there is a phoenix bird on it. Both of these in no way contradict Christianity or ancient Slavic beliefs. In Rus' they even undertook to combine the cartouche with the medallion, for which the casing chamber was made split, on the right in Fig.

Charms

In the city, the amulet on the tympanum and the kokoshnik were of greatest importance; they protected against damage, evil eye and so on. Templates for the upper amulets of the casing of a city house window are shown in Fig. The top one has a cartouche, stylized birds, fish (the tails are clearly visible) and no less than 12 other positive elements noticeable to a knowledgeable person.

The lower one is more for adherents of primordial beliefs. There, in a stylized solar circle, there is some ancient Slavic deity. Which one is not entirely clear, but it is definitely good. Good tramples evil in the form of a serpent: note that the lower elements of this board are asymmetrical.

In the countryside, and even more so in the forest, it was considered necessary to protect oneself equally from the upper (evil eye, slander, etc.) and lower evil: creeping reptiles and forest evil spirits. Platbands with a weighted or heavy apron, equal in height to or greater than the top amulet, were called upon to help with this. An example of the top and bottom boards of a platband-beregin with a weighted apron village house given in Fig. You can try to decipher it yourself.

Ornament

Window trim patterns are usually built on the basis of the so-called. repeats - elements self-conjugate in one direction, forming a linear seamless pattern, on the left in Fig. By changing the size and number of repeats, you can quickly develop a slotted casing for any window. By combining only 2-3 repeats, it is possible to obtain a wide variety of patterns; stencils of several types of fully conjugated repeats are given on the right in Fig.

The repeats of the pattern do not have to completely match each other; this will make the pattern visually more complex and effective. For example, the pattern of the top row on the next. rice. is constructed by turning each subsequent fragment “upside down” relative to the previous one. Rapports of other ornaments in Fig. are conjugated either along broken or curved lines (marked in red).

Note 5: decorating the corners of frame trims with the usual end elements for rapport lines often turns out to be difficult, there is simply not enough space at the corner. In such a case, next. rice. Templates for isolateral ends of the ornament are given. By rotating them 45 degrees, you can also use them to create linear patterns. These parts are best cut out of plywood, see at the end.

Thread

If you want to make yourself unique carved platbands, then the main difficulty on this path is the selection of tools. In addition to flat chisels of 5, 10, 16/18 and 24 mm (pos. A in the figure), you will need oblique chisels of the same widths, but always in pairs - right and left, pos. B. Angle chisels 6, 12 and 18/24 mm at an angle of 90 degrees will be enough, pos. IN.

Much more semicircular chisels will be required, pos. G: for starters, 4, 8, 13 and 16 mm normal, with a gutter depth equal to its width. 4 and 8 mm chisels will also need deep, so-called. U-shapes, and 13 and 16 mm are also sloping.

For fine artistic carving you will also need curved chisels, normal, sloping and 60 degree angled, pos. D1, D2, D3. For cushion carving, you can’t do without reverse crimpers for smoothing corners, pos. D2a. The minimum required standard sizes are marked in pos. D red.

You need to look for chisels for wood carving in art stores, but buying everything initially needed randomly will be very expensive. It’s better to immediately take a set for wood carving, but not for a fine sculpture of 40-60 items (item E), it won’t cost any less, and at first you simply won’t understand what to do with most of these tools. You need to take a beginner's set of 12-15 items, pos. Well, for it you will only need to buy jamb knives at 90 and 60 degrees (shown by arrows in position E). With the tools from such a set it will be possible to refine cut-out overlay elements and perform rather thin geometric carving, see figure:

Note: If you have the opportunity to use a manual wood milling machine, then the cut-out or slotted platbands can be significantly improved visually by running a shaped chamfer - molding - along its edge with a shaped cutter, see fig. on right.

Plywood

The crappiest packaging plywood, after being impregnated 2 times with a water-polymer emulsion, becomes suitable for medium-level artistic carving, and when painted with water-dispersion paint and varnished with acrylic varnish, it turns out to be resistant on the outside, like oak. But what’s even more important is that the strength of plywood, unlike boards, is almost equal in all directions. The minimum thickness required for the platband is 30 mm, which is 5 layers of plywood and 5 levels decoration clypeus. In this way, you can make plywood trims that are visually almost as good as the masterpieces of the masters of the past; compare left and center in fig.

Antique carved platbands, modern plywood platbands and jigsaw machine for cutting from plywood

However with a hand jigsaw sawing so much plywood will take a long time and be inaccurate, but carpenter's jigsaw Unacceptably coarse for such thin lace. You need a jigsaw machine, also known as a stationary jigsaw, on the right in Fig. Branded jigsaw machines are expensive, but they can be made with your own hands from a manual jigsaw (which does not deteriorate and remains suitable for basic work), an old sewing machine, and other methods, see for example. track. video.

Video: homemade jigsaw for wood carving

Note: machines from sewing machines the safest and may not be electrified if the machine is foot-operated. In this case, the frequency of the saw strokes is regulated simply without any electronics: you just need to jerk your legs more often or less often.