How to make a wooden box for a jewelry box. Master class on working with wood: Casket from "A" to "Z"

Wood is a versatile material. Various items are made from it, which will become original. A good option would be a wooden box with your own hands. It can store small jewelry, valuable coins and other items. Also, such a product will decorate the interior of the room.

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History of boxes

Caskets have been made since ancient times. One of the first countries was Egypt. Egyptian women were very proud of these caskets, as they had an exquisite look.

In Japan and China, these items were made from valuable and rare woods. They were decorated with carvings and hand-painted.

Caskets were used to store valuables and jewelry. Clothes and large items were put into bulky chests. It is believed that it was on the basis of the latest designs that smaller analogues were made.

In addition, chests were widely used in various myths. So, Cleopatra kept in them not only jewelry and jewelry, but also a dagger and poison. But the most famous item is Pandora's Box.

Types of boxes

If we talk about chests for storing jewelry and decorations, then they can be divided into several types.

Among popular options worth highlighting:

Wooden crafts. They have many advantages. They differ in affordable cost, a wide range, aesthetics and originality. Various types of wood are used for making. allows you to create designs of various configurations. Used for decoration carving or painting.
Leather designs. These products are available in different styles and sizes. As for the surface, it is smooth, rough and embossed. This also applies to shade. Precious and semi-precious stones and metals are used to decorate the casket. Such products will be the best replacement for wooden structures.
Metal box. Such caskets are found rarely. Especially if they are made of precious metals. So, the silver casket is attributed to the Victorian era. A less popular material is stainless steel. Often metal boxes have small size. This is due to the complexity of manufacturing.
Unique items. Less often you can find caskets made of glass, bone, stone and other materials. They are especially popular. For caskets use transparent or panoramic glass. More rare specimens are a box made of porcelain, bamboo and other original materials.

Materials for making boxes

Used to make caskets various materials.

Among the common options it is worth highlighting:

Chipboard prices

In fact, the box is made by hand from various materials.

Some models are exclusive, and it is almost impossible to meet them in everyday life.

Here it is worth highlighting structures made of metals, such as gold and silver. Often they are decorated with precious stones. An equally rare option is an ivory chest.

Stainless steel prices

stainless steel sheet

If we talk about how to make a chest with your own hands, then it is better to stop the choice on wood or MDF.

Do-it-yourself wooden box

For manufacturing, you will need certain tools and a design drawing. With certain skills, you can easily make a chest yourself.

Making tool

To make a box with your own hands, you must have the following materials on hand:

manual or electric jigsaw;
a set of various files;
saw for wood for cutting material;
screwdriver in case of connecting parts with self-tapping screws;
hammer;
files for wood;
sandpaper for grinding workpieces;
paint, rollers and other devices for finishing.

You should start by drawing up a drawing or sketch of the structure.

We prepare diagrams and drawings

To make a beautiful and bright thing, you need to draw up a detailed drawing and diagram of the product. In this case, you need to determine the size and appearance of the structure.

Drawing of the box compiled in the following order:

choose a design and transfer it to paper in the form of a sketch;
set approximate dimensions;
paper cut blanks and compare them to see the dimensions of the future casket;
if the dimensions are satisfactory, then draw up a drawing with the appropriate dimensions;

If necessary, the dimensions can be adjusted to your preferences. It is worth starting to cut the material only after all dimensions satisfy the wishes. So, how to make a wooden box in stages?

How to cut parts correctly

Based on the prepared drawing, cutting is carried out. This process can be done independently or in a special workshop. The cutting sheet is formed on the basis of the drawing. To do this, use paper templates or computer programs.

According to the prepared cutting sheet, the walls, bottom and lid of the box are cut. Care must be taken when doing this work.

The cut must be carried out exactly along the marked lines. If there are any deviations, then in the future this will somewhat complicate the connection of parts. To improve the quality of the cut, in the process it is worth using electric jigsaw.

How to make and attach a lid

The lid is made using different technologies. Here everything depends on the wishes. So, it can match the size of the bottom. In this case, there will be no production problems. At the cutting stage, the bottom and top of the chest are made in the same sizes.

Lid may be custom sized. In other words, to say, it is larger than the bottom and goes beyond the boundaries of the walls. In this case, the main thing is to correctly position the curtains so that the lid rises above the entire structure. This can only be done by correctly calculating the dimensions of the part.

Volumetric high covers are made very simply. To begin with, the rim of the required height is knocked off. After that, it is covered with a plank. If desired, you can slightly bend the part. As a result, this will give the lid elegance.

The hinges for the box are used to secure the lid. When attaching a part, its features are taken into account. So, fittings can be attached to the edge of the lid or its middle: all envy depends on the size.

The method of installation of curtains is also important. They can be mounted on top or cut into parts. In the latter case, it is necessary to make recesses in the back wall and on the lid. To fix the fittings, small self-tapping screws are used.

Screwing screws into wooden parts must be done very carefully. Otherwise, splitting of the wood is possible.

Lock

The lock for the box is installed depending on the preferences of the person. Such fittings often do not perform a protective function, but are original addition. The best option would be a mortise model of the locking system. Also, the lock can be fixed on the inside of the front cover. But this option is only possible if the key is long enough.

Avoiding disadvantages

So that during the manufacture of the box to avoid surprises and mistakes, some rules must be followed. First of all, this concerns the rules of wood processing:

cutting and sawing must be done according to the drawn up drawing;
stencils will simplify the task of cutting;
before sawing the material, you must make sure that the dimensions are transferred correctly;
the use of an electric jigsaw will improve the quality of the cut and speed up the manufacture of parts;
the ends must be even;
all workpieces are processed with sandpaper, especially for cutting points;
screwing in self-tapping screws must be done very carefully, especially at the ends.

Also, do not forget about the coating of wooden products with protective paints and varnishes. This will extend their service life. But how to decorate a wooden box to make it look original?

Prices for varnishes on wood

varnish for wood

Jewelry box decoration

After the box is made, you can start decorating it. Today, there are many ways to give the product originality.

Popular options include:

Linden. The core has a soft and uniform structure. The wood does not crack or warp. The material is also easy to cut, resulting in clean edges.
Cedar. The wood of this breed can be easily cut in any direction.
Pine or spruce. The material is rarely used. This is because wood has numerous knots. But the advantage of the material lies in its plasticity, which makes it easy to perform geometric carving.
Juniper. The wood is easy to cut and sand.

Important! As for oak, it is better to refuse it, it is very difficult to process and has a rather high fragility.

To carve, you need to prepare a specific set of tools and patterns. The main working tool is a chisel, the width of which is 2 cm. Also, during work, you must follow the safety rules. You need to make sure that your fingers are not in the work area.

Useful video: how to make a box yourself

With certain skills and knowledge, everyone will be able to make and decorate a chest with their own hands. The main thing is to responsibly approach the choice of style and draw up drawings. A wooden box will not only be the best place to store jewelry, but also decorate the interior.

The use of beautiful wood, elegant design and instructions - the DIY box below makes a great gift.

A design flair with an artistic departure from the usual gussets, the variable-width stud connection adds flair to the box's corners. Below will be presented a variant of the manufacture of the connection - straight box spikes of variable width.

In the manufacture, you can also use pieces of various types of wood with a beautiful texture pattern, stored in advance. And you can make caskets from plywood, you just need to choose the required thickness of the material.

Choose from contrasting woods for the body, lid, and handle.

In this section, we will consider how to make a box with our own hands using corner joints such as a spike-groove straight.

Prepare end walls A - 10x56x46 - 2 pcs. and longitudinal walls B - 10x56x292 - 2 pcs.
To set up the saw to make the tenon joints shown in the drawing below, fit a 19mm thick slot disc and make a trial slot on a piece of wood, then readjust to 6mm and check the slot width.

Cut a 19mm wide slot into the trim, cut a 10x305 spacer to a thickness equal to the slot width and check the fit. Then repeat the operation with a groove 6 mm wide.

Set the slot disc back to 6 mm, adjust to a depth of 11 mm. Fix on the movable stop-carriage a wooden extension pad protruding to the right of the saw blade at a distance of 15 cm. Slide the extension pad over the saw blade, cutting a groove. Cut out a 305 mm long spacer into a pin 50 mm long and 6 mm thick.

Video on how to make a plywood box with your own hands

Stick with double-sided tape to the extension plate side stop and make two cuts in both ends of the end walls A.

Without changing the sawing depth, install a 19 mm thick slotted disc and make cutouts at both ends of the longitudinal walls B.

Then glue the second side stop onto the extension pad with double-sided tape.

Remove the first stop and make a central cut in both ends of the end walls A.

Bottom

To mill blind tongues for bottom C (3x133x279 - 1 pc.) in the end walls A, insert a straight groove cutter d=3 into the collet of the router and adjust it to a milling depth of 5 mm.

Note. The bottom can be made from sanded plywood 3 mm thick. If there is no plywood, then you can plan the board.

Fasten the longitudinal stop at a distance of 8 mm from the cutter. Stick masking tape on it and mark the start of milling at a distance of 6 mm to the left of the cutter and the end mark at a distance of 6 mm to the right of the cutter.

Use double-sided tape to glue the handles from the scraps to the outer sides of the end walls, press the lower edges against the longitudinal stop and mill the blind tongues on the inside of both parts, as shown in the upper and lower pictures. Without changing the setting, mill through tongues on the inside of the longitudinal walls B.

Then finally grind the end A and the longitudinal walls B, while making chamfers 1.5-2.0 mm wide at the ends of the spikes.
Apply glue evenly into the notches between the studs and into the tongues of the end and longitudinal walls. Insert the bottom into the tongues, assemble the structure and fix it with clamps, controlling the squareness of the frame assembly.
How to make a box out of wood and not make compartments in it. Let's make a partition D - 6x43x124 - 1 pc. Sand it and glue it using wood glue in the middle, clamp it with a clamp.

Lid

Prepare a blank for cover E - 10x168x330 - 1 pc.

Use clamps to press part E to the carrier board.

Next, saw out 3x32mm seams along the end edges on the underside.

Then reposition the lid on the carrier board, lower the saw blade and cut 3x22mm seams along the edges. After tilting the saw blade at an angle of 37° and reattaching it to the carrier board, make bevels on the end and longitudinal edges. Finish sanding the cover.

Note. Before sawing the folds of the cover, measure the internal dimensions of the case. The rebate dimensions shown in the bottom view allow the lid to move within the housing in both directions within 3 mm. If your dimensions are different, adjust the fold dimensions accordingly.

Making a wooden box

Handle and handle base

Take a 16x30x100 blank for the F handle bracket. With a 10mm thick slotted blade in the saw, make an 8mm deep tongue along the center of one of the long edges of the blank.

Then make contour templates for the handle parts and cut them along the straight lines of the frames. Glue the staple template at the edge of the workpiece.

Saw the bracket into shape by hand. Smoothly sand the edges of the part.

Bevel the workpiece to a thickness of 10 mm, ensuring that it fits snugly into the tongue of the handle bracket. This will be part G - 10x19x79 - 1 pc. Glue the G handle base template to the workpiece, aligning its bottom edge with the edge of the workpiece opposite the tongue. Then saw out the base of the handle and sand it down to its final shape.

legs

Make legs H - 10x10x12 - 4 pcs.

Sand 1.5-2 mm wide bevels on the bottom ribs of the legs and finish sanding.
Apply glue and press the legs to the bottom corners of the wooden box.

Fantasies of the master in the manufacture of wooden boxes with their own hands

The finish

Inspect all parts and, if necessary, further grind them.

Apply a finish, such as stain, and then varnish.

Now present the made box to your beloved and enjoy her reaction.

List of materials

Casket examples

DIY wooden box

Box with their own hands with an unusual pattern. Application methods.

Wooden boxes today are very popular with the fair sex. After all, they are very practical and roomy. In addition, such a box fits perfectly into the interior and is a real decoration of any room. However, the prices for such products in stores are quite high. But you can make a wooden box yourself. This does not require special knowledge and skills. All you need is your desire and patience. This article presents a master class on making a simple wooden box at home.

It will take

Materials needed to make a wooden box with your own hands:

1. Board (width - 16 cm, length - 36 cm) - 2 pcs.
Wooden plank (width - 7 cm, length - 36 cm) - 2 pcs.
Wooden plank (width - 7 cm, length - 16 cm) - 5 pcs.
Wooden plank (width - 7 cm, length - 18 cm) - 1 pc.
Rail (width - 1 cm, thickness - 1 cm, length - 36 cm) - 1 pc.
Self-tapping screws (length - 1 cm) - 8 pcs.
Loops (width - 1.4 cm, length - 1.7 cm) - 2 pcs.
Small thin nails - 35 pcs.
PVA glue - 1 b.

By the way, these materials are used to make a box 16 cm wide, 36 cm long and 7 cm high. If you need a box of other sizes, the parameters of the materials will be different, respectively.

Tools

Tools needed to make a wooden box at home:

Sander.
Screwdriver.
Hacksaw or jigsaw.
Hammer.
Fine brush for applying PVA glue.

Step-by-step production of a wooden box with your own hands:

1. First prepare the bottom and lid of the box. It is very difficult to choose a board of the required size, so initially select a board of the required thickness and use a hacksaw to cut out 2 planks 16 cm wide and 36 cm long. Remember that the thinner the boards are, the neater the box will look. Ideally, the thickness of the board should not exceed 0.5 cm. To get rid of possible irregularities, walk along the prepared boards with a grinder.

2. Make the long side rails of the box. Their length should be equal to 36 cm, and the width - 7 cm. Cut out the planks using a hacksaw or jigsaw, and then process them with a grinder.

3. Start preparing the short side walls of the box and partitions. In this case, 2 planks 16 cm long and 7 cm wide are the side walls, the remaining 3 planks of similar sizes are vertical partitions, and 1 plank 18 cm long and 7 cm wide is a horizontal partition. All parts must be processed with a grinding machine.

4. You will also need a thin rail 36 cm long. It is best to use a window glazing bead. The lid of your box will be attached to it. It also needs to be processed with a grinder.

5. Engage in assembling the frame of the box. Using thin nails, attach to the bottom first the short sides of the box, and then the long ones.

6. Next, prepare the partitions of the box. Do not touch two planks 7 cm long and 16 cm wide, but on a plank 7 cm long and 18 cm wide and a third plank 7 cm long and 16 cm wide, make small cuts in the center. Files are best done with a jigsaw. The length of each notch should be 3.5 cm, and the width should match the thickness of the partitions. Fasten 2 planks with the help of the made files.

7. Insert the partitions into the bottom of the box assembled earlier and secure them with nails. The cross is best carefully glued to the bottom using PVA glue.

8. Then, using thin nails and a hammer, nail a thin strip to the long side of the box where the lid will be attached. Using a screwdriver, screw the hinges to the bar, and then secure the lid of the box.
decoupage. In this case, it all depends on your imagination and your skills.

Today in the master class I will show you how to make a box for the ages, so that you can pass it by hand. The whole process will be shown from the creation of the wooden box itself, to its decoration.

I make almost all the blanks for my work myself, and people often ask me questions about the blanks. Therefore, I want to divide my MK into two parts.
Part number 1 - blank.
Part number 2 - decor.

So let's start part 1.

We will need:

Plywood 8 mm,
Wooden block 2*4 cm,
Nails,
Glue moment "Crystal",
jigsaw,
Screwdriver with grinding attachment,
Hammer,
Blowtorch (gas bottle)
Water-based stain (Oak color)
Sandpaper (different weights)

In this photo, I have already sawn plywood into pieces of the desired length.

Before starting to make a blank, I sketch a drawing on a piece of paper. Here, I share with you my "drawings".
To understand what we will collect.
The box will be rectangular in shape (front view). Inside (top view) the box will be divided into three parts. The middle part will be covered with a lid, and on the left side there will be a separately made small box. As planned - this is for the first tooth.

This is a "drawing" of the lids, which will be alone inside a large box, on the middle compartment. And the second one is on a small box for a tooth (only it will be square).
Covers will consist of two parts. I signed them as: Lid and Inner Lid.

And these are all the dimensions that we need for a large box.
Naturally, these are inaccurate numbers (because our plywood is 0.8 cm thick), so you have to grind some pieces.

These are the dimensions for the "tooth" box.

I will say right away, because this is the question I have to answer most often. People ask why they can’t cut plywood evenly with a jigsaw?
And I can't! Then, after cutting, I carefully grind each end of the piece. An ideal saw cut is possible only on a machine with a jigsaw, whatever one may say, it will not work to cut evenly.
I was lucky, our friends have their own furniture production. Because of one box, of course, I won’t go to them (so as not to bother), but when I need to saw a lot of plywood, I go to them and they will cut everything for me in 10 minutes. Thank you very much for this!
I lay out all the pieces of plywood (having previously polished well all the walls that will be inside the box, otherwise it will be inconvenient to do it later) and armed with glue, I begin to assemble the box.

When the glue "grabs", I knock everything down with carnations. The length of the nails is 2 cm.

Little by little, the outlines of the future box are already visible.
I always collect boxes in this order. First the bottom, then the ends, and then the front sides.

Here is such a tray turned out.

As we can see, the side walls protrude a little. We carefully grind all such places.

The first cover is ready. Lid - on the middle compartment inside the box.
Just glue and knock down two pieces of a rectangular shape.
Of course, carnations are visible from the inside, but we will cover them with decorative nails later.

The middle cap has taken its rightful place. And a small "tooth" box is ready.

Here it is, but closer.

Next, you need to put together a lid on a large box. To do this, we need a wooden block (a good 2 * 2 cm, but I did not find this, I found only 2 * 4 cm).
In general, I had to cut it lengthwise to get the dimensions I needed. Here's a jigsaw to help me.

Lid, in progress. I glue the bars on the glue and knock down (on top) with carnations.

The workpiece is ready! You can start roasting.

Attention! Dangerously! Working with a blowtorch requires special care. Children should not be taken! Adults take only in the presence of a bucket of water!
I have been working with stain for a long time, but I like how the stain looks after firing. It turns out the flow of colors. Therefore, I always "resort" to roasting.
I saw a lot of works (by other masters) with firing. I don’t want to offend anyone, but sometimes I want to scream straight out: - Why are you burning plywood like that? Plywood is not a tree, it does not require strong firing. Moreover, she is AFRAID of strong fire. Plywood begins to burn layer by layer and ugly burnt chips form.
In general, we burn the workpiece lightly, and we burn it in such a way that the "pattern" of tan marks is initially beautiful.

I cover it with a stain three times (this is optional, depending on how intense you want the final color).

Then we take sandpaper (of different hardness) and begin to overwrite all the ends, giving the plywood an old, age-old look.
The photo shows that the small box has already been processed with sandpaper.

And this is a lid from a large box. View BEFORE and AFTER.
This is where I'll end part one. And I'll move on to the second step.

We will need:

Trafathers,
Putty,
PVA glue,
acrylic paints,
acrylic enamel,
Construction paper tape,
felling,
Microbeads, rhinestones, beads,
Claim. flowers (paper, plastic),
Various metal fittings and other little things for decor (your choice).

We will decorate only the covers, and we have them, if you remember, 3 pcs.

As always, I knead the putty (finishing, building) with water and pva glue. Here's to this consistency.
There is about half a glass of putty, 1 teaspoon of PVA and 1 teaspoon of water.

I arrange stencils more comfortably.

And I transfer the drawing to the blank.

So that the pattern on the covers does not look monotonous, I use two different stencils.

The stencils are applied, we are waiting for complete drying.
After drying with fine sandpaper, I carefully grind all the inscriptions.

All these decors will be painted with black acrylic paint. I paint over some with a brush, some with a sponge, and some with full immersion in a glass in which I diluted black paint in water.

While it looks somehow gloomy, I even felt sad at that moment. It seems that the box should be "Mom's Treasures", but here the flowers are black. I work further.

I also paint the covers black.

Then, while the black color has not yet dried, I smack a little with a sponge, in some places with green paint (also acrylic). We are waiting for it to dry.
While I wait, I decide to varnish all my boxes. I use nitro polish. I varnish for 5-6 times, carefully sanding each layer of varnish so that in the end the surface is smooth.

I return to the lids when the first (black layer) is dry.

I mix greens with whitewash and apply paint to the surface with a wide brush. As if highlighting the relief.

I apply the paint like this: the first layer, for example, along. The second coat of paint, the one that will be lighter, across. And then vice versa again.

Each time I add a little more white.

In the end, I settled on this color.

It seems to be a good color already, but I want to add a little mother-of-pearl. Acrylic enamel is quite suitable for this role. I dip the sponge a little into the enamel and go over the surface of the lids.

It is hard to see in the photo, but the brilliance appeared. Exactly what is needed!

At this stage, I thoroughly cover all the covers (on top, where there is a stencil) with spray varnish.
I'm waiting for it to dry.

When the lacquer is dry, using the "Crystal" moment glue, I glue the previously painted decors onto the large lid: flowers, filigree, twigs, etc.

With the same paints that were used to paint the covers, I paint the glued decors. In the same order - first dark green, then more, more and more white.

I add some gold. And I carefully varnish the entire lid (top) again with aerosol varnish.

When the varnish on our flowers has dried up, I begin to decorate the composition with all sorts of beads, beads, microbeads and rhinestones (mainly green in order to withstand the style of the caskets).

I divided the metal fittings into two parts. I paint the accessories that will not be attached to the lids in the color of the lids, and vice versa, I leave the accessories that will be attached to the lids in their native bronze color.
I didn’t take off how to “plant” the fittings on self-tapping screws, I think everything is clear here anyway. I put on the loops, screwed the legs and corners, glued the cutting.

That's it!

How I like how moderately burnt plywood looks.

I varnished everything so that now, it seems to me, you can sit down on this composition.

Photo closer so that all strazinki considered.

By the way, here (in these corners) you can insert a photo of the first ultrasound. I deliberately curved the corners so that the photo was easily inserted there.
It is better, of course, to laminate the ultrasound photo, so it will be more durable.

Almost all metal fittings are also trimmed with green rhinestones.

I make almost all the blanks for my work myself, and people often ask me questions about the blanks. Therefore, I want to divide my MK into two parts.
Part number 1 - blank.
Part number 2 - decor.

So let's start part 1.

We will need:

Plywood 8 mm,
Wooden block 2*4 cm,
Nails,
Glue moment "Crystal",
jigsaw,
Screwdriver with grinding attachment,
Hammer,
Blowtorch (gas bottle)
Water-based stain (Oak color)
Sandpaper (different weights)

In this photo, I have already sawn plywood into pieces of the desired length.

And these are all the dimensions that we need for a large box.
Naturally, these are inaccurate numbers (because our plywood is 0.8 cm thick), so you have to grind some pieces.

These are the dimensions for the "tooth" box.

When the glue "grabs", I knock everything down with carnations. The length of the nails is 2 cm.

Little by little, the outlines of the future box are already visible.
I always collect boxes in this order. First the bottom, then the ends, and then the front sides.

Here is such a tray turned out.

As we can see, the side walls protrude a little. We carefully grind all such places.

The middle cap has taken its rightful place. And a small "tooth" box is ready.

Here it is, but closer.

Lid, in progress. I glue the bars on the glue and knock down (on top) with carnations.

The workpiece is ready! You can start roasting.

I cover it with a stain three times (this is optional, depending on how intense you want the final color).

And this is a lid from a large box. View BEFORE and AFTER.
This is where I'll end part one. And I'll move on to the second step.

We will need:

Trafathers,
Putty,
PVA glue,
acrylic paints,
acrylic enamel,
Construction paper tape,
felling,
Microbeads, rhinestones, beads,
Claim. flowers (paper, plastic),
Various metal fittings and other little things for decor (your choice).

We will decorate only the covers, and we have them, if you remember, 3 pcs.

As always, I knead the putty (finishing, building) with water and pva glue. Here's to this consistency.
There is about half a glass of putty, 1 teaspoon of PVA and 1 teaspoon of water.

I arrange stencils more comfortably.

And I transfer the drawing to the blank.

So that the pattern on the covers does not look monotonous, I use two different stencils.

The stencils are applied, we are waiting for complete drying.
After drying with fine sandpaper, I carefully grind all the inscriptions.

All these decors will be painted with black acrylic paint. I paint over some with a brush, some with a sponge, and some with full immersion in a glass in which I diluted black paint in water.

While it looks somehow gloomy, I even felt sad at that moment. It seems that the box should be "Mom's Treasures", but here the flowers are black. I work further.

I also paint the covers black.

I return to the lids when the first (black layer) is dry.

I mix greens with whitewash and apply paint to the surface with a wide brush. As if highlighting the relief.

I apply the paint like this: the first layer, for example, along. The second coat of paint, the one that will be lighter, across. And then vice versa again.

Each time I add a little more white.

In the end, I settled on this color.

It is hard to see in the photo, but the brilliance appeared. Exactly what is needed!

At this stage, I thoroughly cover all the covers (on top, where there is a stencil) with spray varnish.
I'm waiting for it to dry.

When the lacquer is dry, using the "Crystal" moment glue, I glue the previously painted decors onto the large lid: flowers, filigree, twigs, etc.

With the same paints that were used to paint the covers, I paint the glued decors. In the same order - first dark green, then more, more and more white.

I add some gold. And I carefully varnish the entire lid (top) again with aerosol varnish.

That's it!

How I like how moderately burnt plywood looks.

I varnished everything so that now, it seems to me, you can sit down on this composition.

Photo closer so that all strazinki considered.

Almost all metal fittings are also trimmed with green rhinestones.