Do-it-yourself table for a jigsaw. Do-it-yourself folding carpentry workbench and jigsaw machine

An electric jigsaw is an extremely useful tool, without which many operations in the processing of wood and materials based on it are simply impossible to imagine today. Having a relatively small weight and compactness, a hand jigsaw allows you to cut out products of a rather complex configuration from workpieces, but nevertheless, sometimes it would be more convenient to use a stationary tool. It is often more convenient for them to work, moreover, the machine provides a more accurate cut. True, such a machine costs several times more than a manual jigsaw. Anyone who does not want to spend extra money on this equipment can make a jigsaw table with their own hands and get an inexpensive and effective hybrid of a hand tool and a machine tool as a result.

Figure 1. Schematic of a jigsaw table.

The simplest device

Some kind of jigsaw table can be made in a few minutes. The advantage of this design lies in its simplicity. It can be easily attached to a workbench or tabletop and, if necessary, can be simply disassembled. The disadvantage is its small area.

The working surface of the machine will be laminated plywood, in which holes are drilled for a file and for installing fasteners. The thickness of the plywood should not be less than 10 mm. You may also have to prepare holes for the fastening screws in the sole of the power tool. The structure is attached to the workbench with clamps. The heads of the fastening screws must be flush with the plane of the sheet. Such a machine can easily cope with cutting small workpieces up to 30 mm thick. What the device looks like is shown in Figure 1.

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Second option

Another stationary woodworking fixture has more parts, but it is also easy to make. The base of the table consists of 2 sides and a back wall made of chipboard. The machine does not have a front wall for easy access to the button. In the back wall, holes are drilled for the cord and tube of the vacuum cleaner. The cover of the machine is made of 10 mm laminated plywood. The whole structure is pulled together by confirms. The jigsaw is attached in the same way as in the first case.

Figure 2. Scheme of a frame-stop for a jigsaw.

On a homemade machine, you can cut larger workpieces, however, when working with thick wood, the jigsaw file can tilt back and in both directions. This degrades the accuracy of the cut. The disadvantage is eliminated by installing a bracket-stop on a homemade machine (Figure No. 2). The jigsaw blade will move between 2 x 11mm bearings, which are screwed to the L-shaped steel strip. The back of the file will rest on the wall of the bracket. This design will not allow the jigsaw blade to deviate from a given plane.

The bracket is attached to a frame made of 50 x 50 mm birch blocks. It can be raised or lowered depending on the thickness of the material being cut and the length of the file. To do this, the frame with an emphasis is not firmly attached to the sidewall of the machine, but is pressed against it with a steel, hardboard or textolite plate. The vertical post of the birch frame is located between the bed and hardboard, into which 4 clamping bolts are inserted.

The area of the countertop depends on the size of the workpieces you are going to work with.

The machine can be made more perfect by installing a limit bar on it, which will help cut wood into pieces of the same thickness.
The stopper can be attached to the machine with clamps. It is made from a wooden block, steel or aluminum corner. If desired, the plank can be installed on skids fixed at the bottom or on the sides of the tabletop. You can make 2 parallel slots in the tabletop, along which the rail will move. Holes are drilled in it. Studs or screws with wing nuts are passed through them and the slots. Roulette tapes are attached from the ends of the tabletop.

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Table made of bars and chipboard

Figure 3. Scheme of a countertop for a jigsaw.

The manufacture of this table requires certain carpentry skills, since the connection of its drawers with the legs is performed in a thorn-groove. However, dowels, wood glue and self-tapping screws can be used instead. The cover of the machine will be lifting to provide easier access to the tool when removing it. Figure # 3 shows what the countertop looks like. If desired, it can provide a place for installing a manual milling machine, then the machine will become multifunctional.

The table is made from:

bars 80 x 80 mm;

bars 40 x 80 mm;

Chipboard or laminated plywood 900 x 900 mm.

The distance between the legs can be between 600 and 700 mm. Bars for tsars and prongs are obtained after longitudinal sawing of beams 80 x 80. You can choose the height of the legs yourself, based on how convenient it will be to work on the machine. At each end of the tsars and prongs, 2 holes are drilled for dowels. Corresponding holes are made on the sides of the legs. The dowels are coated with glue half the length and inserted into the ends. After that, the frame is assembled roughly. After correcting possible shortcomings, it shrinks completely. All contact surfaces are greased with glue prior to assembly. Self-tapping screws, which are screwed in through holes prepared for them, will give additional strength to the structure.

The cover is attached to one of the side bars on hinges; for this, a slot is made in it to facilitate the installation and removal of the jigsaw. To the back of the tabletop, screw 2 strips with the selected quarter, into which the sole of the power tool will enter. Holes are made in the strips into which the clamping screws or bolts will be installed. A jigsaw fixed under the countertop will be able to process thicker workpieces if a recess is made for its sole in the lid. The easiest way to make it is with a milling machine. The table turned out to be quite spacious, so a large thickness of plywood or chipboard can provide sufficient strength to its lid. Use 20mm or thicker sheets.

Manual power tool very popular both among amateurs and among professionals due to their obvious merits, namely:

comparative cheapness and availability;
compactness;
mobility.

Reverse side of these unconditional merits is the presence of such disadvantages, how:

relatively small time of continuous work;
small achievable accuracy;
insufficient processing quality.

Obviously, these shortcomings are devoid of professional stationary solutions - machines and machines on massive beds. They are, as a consequence, enough not cheap but the main thing is that they need to be placed somewhere. And what if there is no way to equip workshop, but I want to improve quality work? This question is asked by many of those who are passionate about a serious hobby, and even just beginners. master.

Our article will focus on decision, allowing to eliminate the known disadvantages manual jigsaw.

The advantages of a tabletop jigsaw

The above general limitations hand power tools are fully inherent and jigsaw.

Its main plus is mobility - implies exclusively manual movements and fixation tool. That is, in fact, it turns out that:

Very hard to do smooth, clear cut: the slightest unnecessary movement - and a visible flaw appears in the cut line. The ones included in the kit guides do not save because of their lack of rigidity;
Injection tilt the saw blade is virtually uncontrolled in relation to the workpiece. And even in the simplest case of a straight cut, when the blade perpendicular the sole of a jigsaw, the result may disappoint. There are at least two reasons:
- Saw blade - elastic and can bend in the process of cutting, the free edge of the file is not limited by anything;
- On affordable (read - cheap) models, it is often ideal direct the angle between the file and the sole is difficult to attain due to the very design of the cheap stamped grounds.

Interesting Mark, what, say, American masters use manual jigsaw is rare enough. For example, when you need cut opening in the kitchen worktop for installation sinks. In other cases, they prefer to use stationary band saws of various sizes. Such saws are completely devoid of some of the shortcomings (which are mentioned above), and are fully endowed with others: dimensions, weight and… price.

Summarizing the above, it is safe to conclude that, in some way fixing jigsaw on the desktop, you can to a certain extent to conquer some of its flaws. And if you provide guides rollers for free edge canvases files, then you can get a completely even cut. And clean - with the correct selection of the file itself.

Hence the special jigsaw table will significantly improve the quality of work with this tool.

Of course, you shouldn't think that in this way you can get full tape saw. But more on that a little later, now - briefly about what will be needed for manufacturing.

Materials and tools

Materials (edit) can be used from those that are at hand. I would only like to note that the working surface("Table top") must be flat and sufficient tough, therefore, when choosing a material, you need to keep in mind the following points:

Can be used plywood, however, thin (less than 12 mm) plywood is susceptible to warping, and it is not a fact that the existing piece will be quite even.
Waterproof would be preferable laminated("Formwork") plywood thickness from 12 mm.
If we talk about (chipboard), then in general, the thicker they are, the better - the more rigid. Ideally a piece quality laminated kitchen countertops or "postforming".
Cons - less reliability fastenings to her tool, you need to take a more responsible approach to the choice of fasteners.
From pluses, perhaps the main thing is accessibility and simplicity: you can order the whole set parts according to their sizes in any furniture workshop. Thickness it is better to take not a standard 16 mm, but a larger one (for example, 22 mm).
Metal by properties it fits almost perfectly, but in everyday life it is quite difficult to find a piece of suitable size, polished and smooth. In addition, making the necessary holes in it is somewhat more laborious, then it is reasonable to use boring machine.

A set of necessary instrument will depend on the materials, but in general an approximate scroll something like this:

pencil, roulette or a ruler, joiner's square - for marking;
square will also be useful at the stage of final assembly and configuration;
screwdriver and nut the keys according to the selected fasteners;
screwdriver or drill, drills for fasteners, self-tapping screws (screws).

In addition, you will need rectangular metal bracket, two identical bearing and fasteners. Actually myself jigsaw will come in handy too.

Manufacturing steps

Regardless of the material chosen necessary:

to make base and connect to the working surface with holes for fixing the tool sole;
make a system brackets for the upper saw blade;
collect and adjust table.

Base and work surface

Dimensions (edit) foundations are selected based on dimensions existing jigsaw and are approximate.
The dimensions of the working surface are also indicated roughly, from the side of the bracket mounting it mounted flush with the base, on the other three sides small ledge for easy attachment snap(clamps, stops, etc.).

Device bracket with guide bearings is clear from the figure.
Sizes can be chosen individually, but a little something necessarily must be borne in mind.

which limit the sawing of the file to the side, you need pick up based on the size of the files you plan to work with. Width the bearing itself (in reference books it is indicated by the letter V) should not be larger than the width files, so as not to dull its teeth.

So, for example, if width saw blades for metal (T123X, T118A) usually more than 5 mm, then it will be suitable bearings with size B 4–5 mm, for example:

Wherein prefer follows models with letters ZZ, 2RS as the most protected from the effects of dust, which will certainly be in the process of cutting.

Saw blades on wood, on the contrary, they can be narrow (T244D about 3.5 mm) and very narrow (T119BO about 3 mm, which can be used in our case). As an option - bearing 100093 (aka 693, 3 x 8 x 3 mm).

The selected bearing is selected fasteners: screws M3 or M4, nuts (preferably "self-locking" with nylon insert preventing spontaneous unscrewing).

Distance between axles bearings are also calculated based on the size of the files, the thickness canvases may be within from 0.9 to 1.7 mm.

For example, thickness T244D blade is 1.25 mm, and T123X, T118A - 1 mm. It is better to round in great side.

Assembly and adjustment

The bracket can anchor in the following way

This mounting method will make it possible adjust and the height of the guide bearings in accordance with the length of the saw, and (using a square) perpendicularity the saw itself relative to the desktop.

As mentioned above, you should not delude yourself - although this is no longer easy jigsaw, but still not a band saw. Here are some tips:

- In a band saw traffic the saw blade only goes in one direction - top down, due to which the workpiece is pressed against the table by cutting forces.
  It is possible to undermine the workpiece upwards, since the jigsaw pendulum performs and returnable traffic.
  Therefore, the workpiece needs good squeeze to the working surface of the table and the most important thing is to feed (move) the workpiece as much as possible slower.

Note! More revolutions and less feed are much better than the other way around.

When working with a jigsaw (with or without a table), it is useful to remember that move jigsaw files are usually in the order of 15-20 mm, this value for your instrument must be read in the instructions or determined by yourself. Material thicker than this value should only be cut with by divorce teeth. Otherwise shavings will not be completely removed, which is fraught with overheating and jamming of the blade.
Between the work surface of the table and sole jigsaw, you can lay a sheet of dense rubber, after making an incision for the file. Assemble the table and let the canvas work a little idle, so that the canvas "rubbed in" to the slot in the rubber. it will protect moving knots of an inverted jigsaw from a large number sawdust, for which it is not designed, because in the normal mode, the tool designers clearly did not count on such a number of them.
Protective glasses - necessary. And you also need to organize the inclusion of the device through pedal or provide another way instant disconnecting the tool. But this is already a topic for another article.
Do not be afraid creatively think and improve their tools, because any idea - just a starting point for creativity, and universal there are no solutions.

For more information on making a table for a jigsaw, see video:

A jigsaw is an electromechanical tool that is used to cut materials from wood, fiberboard, chipboard, plastic and even thin metal. Work using a jigsaw is carried out, holding it in hand, they are cut according to a drawing previously outlined on the workpiece. Anyone who has ever done this work knows that it is almost impossible to perform a perfectly even cut in this way. It is more convenient and efficient to do this work with a jigsaw on a special table, which is quite capable of making with your own hands.

Self-made jigsaw table

You can buy in hardware stores or order on the Internet a bed for an electric jigsaw, but making it yourself will be much cheaper, and this table will definitely be more practical, since you will make it, taking into account the dimensions you need.

The dimensions of the future table largely depend on the dimensions of the parts that will be manufactured, and on the usable area of the room where it will be installed.

First you need to draw a sketch of the future table. You can do it yourself or download the drawing from the website on the Internet. The finished drawing will indicate the dimensions and materials used in the manufacture of the tooling.

We present one of the options for drawing a table for working on it with an electric jigsaw

Having a drawing, you need to prepare tools and supplies to start work on making a jigsaw table.

Attention! For more accurate manufacturing of parts of the same size, we add two perpendicular cuts to the bed with a length of 25 cm to the bed and strengthen the guide stop.

Tool and material

Let's prepare such a tool:

screwdriver or drill;
electric jigsaw;
wood drills (3.5, 6, 8, 10 mm);
hammer;
chisel;
roulette;
level;
sandpaper.

Material for making the model:

USB plate (18 mm);
wooden beam (120 x 25 x 400 and 60 x 40 x 1400);
wood screws (4 x 45) 35 pcs.;
bolts 8 x 30 (for attaching the jigsaw to the bed), 8 x 60 (for attaching the bracket to the bed), 8 x 80 (for attaching the hacksaw blade guide), 8 x 30 (for attaching the bearings);
nuts - 10 pcs.;
washers - 10 pcs.;
bearings - 2 pcs.;
aluminum corners 25 x 25 x 80 - 2 pcs.

Work on the manufacture of parts of the table and its assembly

Making a table box for those who are a little familiar with carpentry will not be difficult. From the USB sheet with an electric jigsaw, according to the sketch drawn on the sheet, cut out the parts for making the bed. We assemble the box according to the drawing.
Holes are drilled for fastening the jigsaw and the output of the hacksaw blade. An electric jigsaw is being installed.
The center is measured along the canvas, and the bracket guide is attached to the side of the box.
The arm of the bracket, as shown in the figure, has not holes for fastening, but slots for changing its height in accordance with the length of the blade used.

Let us consider in more detail the manufacture of a bracket for a hacksaw cutting guide:

We make a knee (vertical lever), which is attached to a guide with slots for moving the bracket in height and sampling the upper part to connect the second part of the part.
The horizontal arm consists of a bar with a spike at one end for connection to the vertical arm and guide block for centering the hacksaw blade.
We connect all the parts into a block and make a clear fit of the equipment so that the movement of the cutting blade has a free easy move.

Important! We do not neglect the installation of a protective block with plexiglass, since it is a fence in case of unauthorized loss of the web during the operation of the mechanism and eliminates injury.

The assembled jigsaw workbench is tested in work with various materials. If any flaws in the design are identified, they are eliminated.

To perform a cut of material with different density and viscosity, certain canvases are used for each type. In addition, the optimal tool speed is selected to avoid overheating of the blade.

Prior to this, the jigsaw was used only in rough sections of cutting or for cutting sheet material. He worked with large files several times and each time wondered why they were needed at all, if they were always taken away decently. But if you put the jigsaw on the table, then its functionality increases significantly. It turns out that a jigsaw can replace (as far as possible) a circular saw, a band saw, grinding machine for delicate work. I spied on the design in the blog markellov , for which many thanks to him! I placed my version on a folding workbench. The size of the table is 36x36 cm. The table itself is made of plywood 12 mm. The machine is completely disassembled and put into the closet. The guide is fixed with 2 thumbscrews.

Bars under the table to secure the entire fixture to the workbench, and also allow the mounting hardware for the top rail support.

The jigsaw is fixed to the table with only one screw. To do this, I chose a quarter of the thickness of the platform in an oak bar. In another bar, I made a quarter at an angle of more than 90 degrees and the platform enters it with a wedge, therefore, displacement during operation in all 4 directions is excluded.

I saw on the net freaky in quality of performance table, but for this you have to really, really try. There is also ready the solution is from the bourgeoisie, but as I understand it, it is most likely for some very small work. The upper guide bracket is adjustable in height to accommodate different blades. I thought for a long time how to make it with a high degree of rigidity and at the same time avoid its cumbersomeness. Since the device itself does not have side walls that could serve as a support for the bracket, I had to tinker a little. There is a pine block in the center, a T-shaped steel profile is screwed to it and all this is glued with 12 mm plywood, which provides the rigidity of the upper rail. Here's what happened in the end.

Working with long blades without pulling to the side allows the blade edge fixation unit, as in a band saw. The option with bearings initially seemed to me the most efficient, but then I still chose the option with oak guides. On wide blades like band saws, the use of bearings is more justified, but here it is more convenient to adjust the gap between the blade by moving such inserts.

The result is a fairly compact machine for small sawing jobs. Now convertibles can also be cut. The cutting height depends on the length of the blade.

P.S .: MAIN what must be taken into account when working with a jigsaw in this position is the toss of a part during operation, since the saw teeth in this case "look" up. It is imperative to fix the part from above, like a sewing machine. In my case, the bracket is lowered and the lower part of the guide assembly does not allow the workpiece to jump. Perhaps in time I will make a fixing foot.

Since childhood, we are familiar with the technology of cutting with a jigsaw. The principle is simple - the stationary part is placed on a support with a technological cutout, the sawing is done by moving the file. The quality of work depends on the firmness of the hands and the skill of the employee.

In this way, you can literally cut lace from thin wooden or plastic blanks. However, the process is laborious and slow. Therefore, many craftsmen thought about small-scale mechanization.

Simple construction from the last century

Even the magazine "Young Technician" offered drawings of how to make a jigsaw machine with your own hands. Moreover, the design does not imply an electric drive, the drive works from muscle power, like a knife grinder.

The machine consists of the main parts:

frame (A)
work table (B) with a slot for the canvas
lever system (B) to hold the saw blade
flywheel (D), which is the primary drive pulley
crank mechanism (D), combined with the secondary drive pulley, and driving the levers (B)
pedal assembly (E) with a crank mechanism that drives the flywheel (D)
saw blade tensioner (W)

With the feet of the foot, the master sets the flywheel (D) in motion. With the help of a belt drive, the crank mechanism (D), connected to the lower lever (B), rotates. A file is stretched between the levers, the degree of tension is adjusted with a lanyard (G).

With a well-balanced flywheel, the saw blade runs smoothly enough, and such a homemade jigsaw machine allows you to massively saw the same type of workpiece, saving time and effort. In those days, jigsaw blades were produced in the form of a flat, unidirectional band.

Therefore, to obtain patterns of complex shapes, it was necessary to rotate the workpiece around the canvas. The dimensions of the workpiece are limited by the length of the arms (B).

From a jigsaw to electric one step

The foot drive cannot give real freedom of action and uniformity of the file. It is more reasonable to adapt an electric motor for the crank mechanism. However, if you use a tabletop jigsaw from time to time, there is no point in making a stationary structure with its own motor.