The better to insulate a wooden house from the inside. All the nuances of warming an old wooden house, what materials to choose and how to do it yourself

In order to keep warm and cozy in the house, it is necessary to add thermal insulation layer on the outer walls. Particular attention is paid to buildings that have been in operation for a long time and have experienced many negative influences. Therefore, the question of warming the old wooden house many owners are interested.

A house made of wood has the ability to let vapors outside, so that it is always comfortable to be in the premises. If you choose the wrong material for insulation, you can completely close the waste of moisture, which will lead to its accumulation in the walls of the building. This will lead to premature destruction of the entire structure.

Mineral wool

Experts claim that the best insulation not to be found for an old wooden house. And indeed it is. has the following properties:

Keeps warm well.
Isolates indoor spaces from extraneous sounds from the environment.
Light weight helps to do everything quickly and efficiently.
The structure of the material allows you to hide all the irregularities.
Fire and environmental safety.
Rodents are not used to create nests.

But there are also a number of negative points:

protection from moisture is necessary, therefore mineral wool break with a vapor barrier membrane, on the one hand, and a windproof film, on the other;
requires mechanical fixation.

But it is easy to cope with such shortcomings, therefore this option is suitable for an old house and or a new building.

Styrofoam

Insulation from the class available. Therefore, it is in demand among all construction companies and private developers. In addition to this positive point, there are a number of others:

Good ones thermal insulation properties.
Soundproofed.
Does not absorb moisture.
Withstands light mechanical stress.

But a small set of disadvantages makes the foam unsuitable for insulation. village house from a log house:

lack of steam permeability;
rapid destruction under the influence of ultraviolet radiation;
rodents and insects love to create their homes in this material;
the foam is highly flammable, and then smolders with the release of corrosive substances.

The tree burns well anyway, and if the finish is such that it will be life-threatening to be in such a house.

Penoplex (polystyrene)

This material is closely related to foam. But the manufacturers slightly improved the properties of the insulation, due to which the cost also increased. What are the characteristics of penoplex?

Improved thermal insulation properties. If you need 10 cm thick foam to insulate a house, you can replace 5 cm with foam.
Withstands heavy mechanical stress.
Does not absorb moisture at all.
There are also soundproofing properties.
Penoplex is produced with the addition of fire retardants, substances that prevent the material from igniting when exposed to fire. Therefore, in comparison with polystyrene, penoplex is safer.

It is sometimes used as thermal insulation for wooden buildings. But it is only suitable for a plinth or foundation. This is due to the lack of steam capacity. As a result, condensation will form on the walls, which means it will contribute to the development of mold and mildew.

What is the best way to insulate?

A house with a long service life requires not only insulation of the facade, but also all structural elements as a whole. Such actions will help to more effectively retain heat inside the house. Therefore, we will consider all the elements separately:

Wall insulation

It is better to insulate the walls from the outside. This shifts the dew point towards the environment, which allows it to be removed much faster from the base. If you insulate the walls from the inside, then you can cause a completely opposite result. In this case, the walls will still freeze through.

For wall insulation we choose hard mineral wool mats. If you have the material capabilities, you can take the foil version. A layer of foil will bounce heat away from the walls. Before installing the insulation, be sure to close all the cracks.

In this case, we use a tourniquet, dry moss or tow. With this material we tightly seal the inter-crown space or cracks that may form on the logs.

Ceiling

There are two ways to insulate the ceiling:

from the side of the room;
from the side of the attic.

Both the first and second methods are effective. More rigid materials are laid on the ceiling. If there is an attic under the roof, then it is better to resort to insulation from the side of the rooms. Then a structure is created from beams, between which are placed sheet insulation... Don't forget about vapor barrier membranes.

When there is an attic under the roof, you can use mineral wool, and even foam. A tougher material is necessarily laid on top of the insulation. It can be chipboard plates, which will protect the insulation from pushing through.

There is an option when they use bulk insulation eg sawdust, gravel. But a lot of such materials are needed, which can be even more expensive than using modern insulation.

Floor

The choice of technology for warming a dilapidated house depends on whether there is basement or not. If there is a basement, then first they insulate it. You may not need to further isolate the floor after that.

But if such a need has already been determined, then the following options are chosen:

Underfloor heating installation (electric heating). Not always suitable for old wooden structures, since it requires reliable electrical wiring.
Usage thermal insulation materials... They choose only hard options, but be sure to make a plank floor or cover chipboard plates or OSB, and then decorate with the selected floor material.

It is in an old wooden house that large heat losses occur due to dilapidated floors. Therefore, do not neglect the possibility of insulating floors. More precisely, start insulating the house from the floors.

How to insulate an old wooden house with your own hands?

The tree must be specially processed before proceeding with any outdoor work. Especially if the structure is closed from the eyes of the owner. Therefore, carefully and carefully adhere to the insulation technology, if you do everything yourself.

And if you have trusted the masters, then do not forget to control the brigade. It often happens that employees want to get the job done earlier and do a little hack. This can lead to premature structural failure.

Surface preparation

First, let's prepare the base:

Remove all dirt and stains, insects or fungus.
Remove old decorative coating.
Take off hinged structures that will interfere with the conduct of all work.
Close all cracks.
Cover by wooden structure protective compounds... it antiseptic impregnation or mastics and moisture-repellent compounds. Which will significantly extend the life of the base.

If the packaging says that it is desirable to make several layers, then it is better to do as the manufacturer recommends. If you save at this stage, then you can regret it later.

Laying a vapor barrier layer

After the impregnation is completely dry, they begin to lay the membranes. This layer will protect the walls from moisture and allow vapors to pass through the insulation and go outside without hindrance.

start laying from the bottom of the wall in vertical stripes;
each subsequent strip finds, on the previous one, by 10-15 cm;
the joints are fixed with tape;
the membrane itself is fixed with a construction stick.

Installation of lathing

For the frame, use wooden blocks or metal profiles. If selected wooden frame, then its details also require special treatment to last as long as decorative layer... In addition, the bars will not be able to hide the unevenness of the walls, which means that you will have to put pegs or chuck them in some places.

With metal, everything is much simpler - we take it and install it. Special retractable brackets will easily hide all the flaws. But such a structure will cost a little more than a wooden one.

The method of installing the frame depends on whether it will use insulation or not, and also because of what decorative material it was decided to install it on the facade.

The rough plan is as follows:

first we do the markup. The step between the elements is equal to the width of the insulation;
screw on the elements;
we check how evenly the parts are installed using the building level.

Installing a heat insulator

A material that acts as a heat insulator is placed between the elements of the sheathing. The mats are laid tightly. At the same time, make sure that no gaps are formed. Mineral wool should not bristle.

If such flaws appear, then they will later become cold bridges, which partially or completely neutralizes the insulation work. Therefore, the material should lie tightly, but evenly.

Laying the windscreen

It is customary to lay a windproof membrane on top of the insulation. This material will protect the mineral wool from the penetration of atmospheric moisture under the finish. The laying principle is the same as vapor barrier film:

We start work from the bottom.
Making vertical stripes.
We put in an overlap of 105-15 cm.
We glue the joints with tape.
The membrane is fixed with a stapler to the crate.

Here it is appropriate to use more dowels-fungi. This mechanical fastener will additionally fix the insulation and the membrane.

Installation of battens for fastening finishing materials from the outside

Additional crate also creates ventilation gap, which allows you to remove the steam leaving indoor spaces... The size of the gap can vary from 3 to 8 mm. It all depends on the thickness of the insulating material and the region in which the house is located.

Exterior wall decoration

As a finishing material for a wooden house, you can choose any known option. It is important to take into account the state of the structure, that is, the strength of the structure. If the houses are too old, do not choose heavy materials, as the structure may not withstand the load and collapse.

fully follow the installation instructions provided by the manufacturer;
fix the details to the elements of the lathing;
choose dry weather;
insulate a wooden house only in the warm season.

Possible problems with insulation

Before insulating the old wooden house be sure to check how strong the structure is. If necessary, walls and foundations need to be strengthened. Those who have never done such a thing are better off taking care of construction crew rather than starting experiments.

And those who nevertheless decided to do everything on their own should strictly adhere to the instructions and not lose sight of anything. It is important to properly prepare the base, choose insulation and finishing.

Discuss the warming of frame wooden houses we will not be here - this is generally a separate conversation, there is a different technology and we will talk about them in other articles.

Why it is not advisable to insulate the walls from the inside, and what consequences may arise, I have already described in one of my previous articles.

Here we will talk exclusively about the features of insulation from the inside, related to wooden houses.

In principle, there are not so many features, basically it is necessary to adhere to the basic rules of wall insulation from the inside, the main of which says that no wall insulation from the inside can replace high-quality insulation of the house from the outside. But if there are no options, then you must adhere to a certain technology.

Preparing the wall of a wooden house for insulation

This stage is very important, since after insulation, access to the timber from the inside will be very limited, and in order to fix something, it will be necessary to completely dismantle the insulation.

And so, first of all, it is necessary to clean the walls from the inside from dust, dirt, various detachments, etc.

After that, seal the cracks and holes that appeared.

Deal with electrical wiring if you have wires running along the walls. If the house is old, it would be better to check all the electrical wiring, repair it if necessary, but if it is new, then carry out the installation, not forgetting about electrical safety in wooden houses.

Vapor barrier for insulation

Before installing the insulation, it is necessary to prepare a vapor barrier. It is necessary to protect the insulation from moisture on the walls, which after insulation wooden walls home from the inside will be inevitable. In turn, the more moisture inside the insulation, the less sense it will be.

The vapor barrier film also has a negative effect - the creation of a thermos in the room. The walls practically cease to "breathe", the humidity, as a rule, rises. From this can only be saved good ventilation... Without ventilation, you should not start wall insulation from the inside, because over time you will get the feeling that you live in a plastic bag, and the walls will start to sweat and get wet, and as a result, fungus and mold will appear, which will have a very detrimental effect on wooden walls and on the health of people living in the house.

Vapor barrier can be made with a special membrane film, which will do its job much better and more correctly, but it also costs much more.

Installation of insulation on a cotton base

As a rule, the installation of mineral wool is carried out using a lathing, since this is the most suitable option due to the peculiarities of this type of insulation.

On the wall, on top of the vapor barrier, installation is being carried out wooden lathing(it is not advisable to use metal, since metal has a very high thermal conductivity).

Then a heater is laid between the slats. The most commonly used material for wall cladding from the inside is drywall. It is usually screwed directly to the crate.

Installation of expanded polystyrene insulation

Polyfoam is the cheapest and most practical insulation to date. Expanded polystyrene is used very often as an external insulation, mainly due to its cheapness and low thermal conductivity.

But despite this, it is least suitable for insulating a house from the inside.

There are several reasons for this:

the release of toxic substances (the higher the temperature, the more)
airtight
over time, rodents may appear in it

Installation of insulation "Ekovata"

The characteristics of ecowool are much more favorable for insulating the walls of a wooden house from the inside:

breathable
there is some kind of protection against fungi and mold
due to the passage of air through itself, it does not allow the walls to store increased moisture in themselves.

Frequent mistakes when insulating wooden walls from the inside with your own hands

Many people believe that the more insulation when insulating from the inside, the better. I assure you that this is a myth. If there is too much insulation on the walls from the inside, the dew point can move into the insulation itself, and if it is on a cotton base, then its thermal insulation will decrease significantly, and the insulation itself will not survive for a long time in dampness.
Some people insulate the wooden wall of the house from both sides, and this will have a very detrimental effect on the wall itself. The reason for this is the vapor barrier of the insulation, which will not allow the wall to dry out, and over time, fungi, mold and rot will appear there, which will destroy your wooden structure much faster than you think.

If you have the opportunity to insulate a wooden house from the outside, then insulate without hesitation, insulating walls from the inside is fundamentally wrong and resorting to this type of insulation is necessary only in extreme cases, when there are no other options.

Insulate the walls, both from the outside and from the inside, preferably in the warm season, when the wall is as dry as possible.
If you have any kind of cladding outside the house, you need to make sure that there are air vents between the cladding and the wooden wall, which will allow your wall to somehow dry out.
Before installing the insulation from the inside, carefully process the wooden walls of the house, because after the insulation there will be a microclimate in the wall with an increased danger for the tree and excess impregnation will not hurt.
If you are going to sheathe the walls from the inside with plasterboard, then when installing the sheathing, take into account the dimensions so that you do not have to build additional mountings for drywall.
Do not use polystyrene for insulation from the inside, do not fall for its cheapness and excellent qualities as insulation. It is not suitable for interior work.

The tree is traditional material for the construction of houses. It is intuitively clear that the more massive and thicker the wall, the more low temperatures she can handle. Today it is not always possible to pick up construction material required sizes... The way out is to perform additional thermal insulation of the walls.

Warming principles

The choice of how to insulate a wooden house is actually not so great. There are only two options: indoor and outdoor. The first option is the best from the heat engineering point of view. External insulation does not allow the wall material to cool. As a result, the dew point is located in the outer insulating layer.

Nevertheless, sometimes it is necessary to carry out wall insulation inside a wooden house. There may be several reasons for performing such work:

the desire to leave the external texture of wooden walls unchanged;
insufficient thickness outdoor insulation;
the ability to carry out work without reference to weather conditions.

Wood, as a structural material, does not like excessive waterlogging. To provide comfortable conditions operation, it is necessary to isolate the insulation from water vapor penetrating from the side of the dwelling.

Moisture trapped for one reason or another inside the structure should have a chance to evaporate in environment... The vapor permeability of the wall "pie" should gradually decrease in the direction from the living quarters towards the outer (street) surface of the log house.

Things to Consider

In fact, when performing insulation from the inside, it is impossible to meet two identical cases. To get the most effective result, it is necessary to make at least an approximate calculation before starting work.

Should be considered:

climatic zone of construction;
material and thickness of various layers of the wall;
the nature of living in the house;
temperature and humidity conditions in the room.

Used thermal insulation materials

The main characteristic of thermal insulation is the coefficient of thermal conductivity. Equally important when deciding on the choice of a particular material will be the flammability class and density.

Mineral wool

Non-combustible, fibrous material produced from melts of silicon and basalt rocks, slag residues of metallurgical production and their mixtures. It is produced in the form of rolls or mats of various densities.

When insulating vertical surfaces, it is more convenient to work with separate plates. The optimum density in this case should be in the range from 40 to 60 m³ / kg.

When using, the use of hydro and vapor barrier is mandatory. The wetting of cotton wool contributes to a sharp decrease in thermal insulation properties.

Polyfoam and EPS

The structure of foamed insulation, which include EPS and foamed plastics, is a large number of closed cells filled with air. Such a structure makes it possible to eliminate the need to use any additional protective layers... The difference between EPS in comparison with foam is in a denser and therefore more moisture-resistant structure.

When organizing work, you should stop your choice on low-combustible brands (G1 or G2). G4 is characterized by the release of pungent black smoke and burning droplets during combustion and is not allowed for use in wooden houses.

Example of work execution

For example, you can consider the sequence of work on the insulation of a wooden log house from the inside. Wall thickness 150 mm. Mineral wool is used as insulation in Rockwool Scandic Light Butts slabs. Dimensions 800 x 600 x 50.

Foam insulation does not allow air to pass through. On the one hand, this is good - water vapor does not penetrate into the wall. On the other hand, it turns out a closed thermos, the atmosphere of a wooden house is lost and organization is required forced ventilation... The vapor permeability coefficients of mineral wool and wood are quite close. The whole structure will be relatively homogeneous from the point of view of heating technology.

The choice in favor of just such a brand of material is primarily associated with its widespread prevalence, ease of use and relatively low cost. Compression packing is an important factor. It allows you to reduce the volume occupied during transportation by up to 70%.

Structural calculation

Before starting work, it is necessary to carry out the calculation correctly. It is necessary to decide on the composition of the insulating structure, material and thicknesses of various layers. For these purposes, online services are very suitable for thermal calculation that exist on the internet.

So, for a wooden wall 150 mm thick internal insulation may have two options.

Option 1:

interior decoration;
air gap;
vapor barrier;
insulation layer 5 cm;
vapor barrier;
air gap;
wall.

Option 2:

interior decoration;
air gap;
vapor barrier;
insulation layer 5 cm;
wall.

Both options work up to temperature street air-15C ° is exactly the same. A comfortable thermal regime (+23 C °) is maintained inside the room.

With a further lowering of the temperature in the first version with two air gaps, condensate does not form up to -20 C °. In the second, starting from -16 C °, the dew point shifts to the border of the timber-insulation.

Increasing the thickness of the insulation, paradoxically, will only worsen the situation. With a 10 cm thick thermal insulation layer, condensation will form even at -12 ° C.

The calculations show that insulation from the inside is ineffective during severe and prolonged frosts. However, the option with two air gaps has the right to exist with seasonal living in cold climatic zones and year-round in temperate zones with mild winters.

Ventilation duct

The ventilation gap allows air to circulate inside the wall. It allows you to remove some moisture (condensation that forms in frost).

Internal vents are formed by packing vertical slats 20 mm thick and about 40 mm wide on the wall surface. Fastening is carried out with nails or self-tapping screws.

Installed on top of the installed rails vapor barrier membrane... It is fixed with construction stapler. An important nuance is the orientation. The smooth side should face the insulation, rough from it. This will allow water vapor to escape from the insulation towards the air gap and will not let them back.

Implementation of the frame and installation of thermal insulation

The main part of the insulating structure is a frame for installing insulation mats. For its manufacture, it is best to use bars with a section of 40 x 50 mm or 50 x 50 mm. This section will provide sufficient spatial rigidity.

Fastening vertical posts carried out to the floor and ceiling using profiled fixing plates and self-tapping screws. If necessary, to give greater strength, you can carry out through fastening with large self-tapping screws directly to the wall of the house. For the convenience of subsequent work, the pitch of the vertical posts must correspond to the dimensions of the insulation mats (800 or 600 mm).

No fasteners are required to fix the mineral wool in the frame. The mats are installed tightly, at the edge. It is very important to completely fill all the space between the racks in order to exclude micro-convection and air bridges of cold through the internal slots in the insulating layer.

Vapor barrier

The principles and techniques of installing the second vapor barrier layer are similar to the first. The diffusion membrane unfolds over the entire surface with the smooth side to the insulation and is attached with a stapler.

A continuous barrier is created that protects the internal space of the insulated frame from the penetration of water vapor from the side of the room.

Air gap

By analogy with the first air gap the rails are packed onto the frame posts through the installed membrane. They serve to organize the ventilation space and are the basis for fastening fine finishing premises.

Finishing plating

The finish can be very diverse:

lining;
block house;
OSB boards or sheets of drywall with subsequent plastering or wallpapering.

The best option for preserving the color and atmosphere of a wooden house is imitation of a bar. If everything is done carefully, then an unknowing person will never guess about the presence of insulation behind the sheathing boards.

Insulate a house in which there is still no interior decoration much easier than doing it in an already fully equipped and ennobled house. Take your time with any internal works until every room in the house is properly insulated. Thanks to modern materials, you can do it yourself. Any room will be cozy and comfortable if you competently approach the matter and carefully read the technology of insulation of the ceiling, walls and floor.

Insulation of the ceiling of a wooden house

As a rule, they are not responsible for ceiling insulation. Many people think that it is not necessary to insulate it, but this is far from the case. The air, which people try so hard to warm in winter, rises up and goes through the ceiling to the street. Allowing serious mistake- leaving the ceiling uninsulated, many themselves without knowing it lose half of the heat, they waste it senselessly cash on warmth leaving unknown.

Ceiling insulation material:

Mineral wool... This material is not expensive, but reliable and easy to install. He is one of the few insulation materials with which you can carry out work on your own, without calling for help from other workers and, most importantly, do not pay them money.
Glassine. It is used as a waterproofing material used.

For structures and frame cladding you will need:

Edged board.
Nails, glue, polyurethane foam.
Drywall.

Ceiling insulation tools:

Hammer.
Hacksaw.
Screwdriver.
Electric jigsaw.
Tile adhesive.

Ceiling insulation stages:

From edged boards making a frame, you need to be prepared for the fact that this will reduce the height of the room. The distance between the planks of the frame should be no more than 1 meter.
Between the boards of the frame it is necessary glue glassine, leaving no empty spaces for the material to hold well, it needs to be slightly coated with tile glue.
On top of glassine we lay the insulation- mineral wool. Do not leave holes between the insulation. If the material does not stick, use a small amount of tile adhesive.
The last stage is plasterboard ceiling sheathing... Using a screwdriver, fasten the drywall sheets to the wooden frame.

It is necessary to insulate the ceiling from the inside in warm time year and not earlier than 1 year after the construction of the house. Only in this case, the insulation will pass competently and will last for many years.

If it is decided to insulate the walls of a wooden house from the inside, you need to know what, in this case, on the walls can condensation... The northern places are especially exposed to this. the globe where it is very cold in winter and warm in the premises. This happens due to the effect of a temperature difference, during which the dew point moves into the layers of insulation. You can fix this situation film, which is used together with insulation, or provide good ventilation.

Required inventory

Jigsaw, hammer drill, screwdriver, mallet, tape measure, level, plumb lines, chisel, screwdriver, hammer.
Wooden beams.
Felt, foam or tow.
Material for wall insulation, for example, glass wool.
Drywall.
Putty.

Modern materials for wall insulation

Ecowool- this material perfectly fills all the cracks and voids in the walls, at the same time preventing blowing through the walls. It prevents moisture from penetrating inside, thus preventing the appearance of fungal infections. One of the few breathable materials.
Glass wool- having chosen this material for insulation, you should take care of the thermal insulation in the room, since glass wool allows a small amount of moisture to pass through, as a result of which the thermal insulation qualities deteriorate.
Expanded polystyrene- one of the most common materials for wall insulation in wooden houses. First of all attracts with its cheapness... Also positive qualities are elasticity and lightness. The material has heat and sound insulating qualities.

Wall insulation technology

All cracks in the wall must be repaired foam, linen felt or tow... You can choose any material with which it is more convenient to work. We make a crate from wooden beam... We place a place for installing the edge elements of the crate. Should be given to this Special attention, it depends on the first bars how smoothly the next ones will be fastened, so use a level and plumb lines for verification.

If the definition of the first bar is completed, you should fix it with screws and dowels. Should be fixed every 25-30 cm. Then we measure 1 meter from the first timber and fasten the second in exactly the same way parallel to the first, etc. until a full perimeter of the lathing is formed on the entire wall. If on the way they meet window openings, they should be chipped in a circle with bars.

Each bar must be treated with antiseptics to prevent rotting and the appearance of fungi. The crate is ready. Insulation should be placed between the bars. It is not necessary to use glue in this case, the material will already firmly adhere between the crate and the wall.

Making isolation... Used for vapor barrier film or polyethylene, it is applied over the insulation with small allowances at the edges.

The last stage is finishing. We sheathe the walls with plasterboard, we fasten it to the lathing made of beams, it is important that the plates fit snugly against each other. If cracks appear, they should be putty.

Insulation of the floor of a wooden house

Tools and materials for work:

Hammer, drill, saw, electric jigsaw.
Nails, tape measure, pencil, knife.
Level, plane.
Mineral wool.

The concrete floor in a private wooden house must be insulated. It is worth noting that the process of floor insulation is not easy, but you can spend it on your own by spending your personal time and effort. Consider the method - Raised floor, it will raise the floor by at least 6 cm, but makes the room much warmer.

Mineral wool for floor insulation

Mineral wool has been inexpensive but effective material.

Advantages mineral wool:

This material soundproof and heat-insulating.
Excellent specifications and reviews.
Duration service life.
Low density.
Does not deform practically under no circumstances.
The price is always available for any citizens.
Available in 2 types: flexible mats or hard slabs.

The only competitor to mineral wool is expanded polystyrene, it boasts of its practicality and ease of installation.

Insulation of a wooden house should be carried out completely, it is necessary to insulate ceiling, walls and floor. If the ceiling is insulated but there is no wall, warm air will still leave the room through microcracks and then all the work will be in vain. On the modern market, you can buy a lot of thermal insulation coatings and tools for home insulation. If you approach the matter competently, even a wooden house old building will be cozy and warm in the coldest winters.

Wooden house insulation video

By buying or building a wooden Vacation home, its owners may soon be faced with the need to insulate it. There can be quite a few reasons for the low temperature inside a wooden house. Often this can be low quality wood and insufficient thickness of the logs. Therefore, in order to somehow remedy the situation, it will be necessary to insulate the wooden walls of the house. Insulating the walls of a wooden house is not particularly difficult, the main thing is to understand the technology of insulating wooden walls.

Features of the insulation of wooden walls

Due to its structure, wood has a number of unique qualities and requires a special approach to operation. Main feature a material such as wood is its ability to "breathe". This means that wooden walls can themselves regulate the microclimate in the house. You should also remember about the natural origin of the logs, which are prone to mold and decay. It is the naturalness of wood that imposes certain restrictions on the materials and methods of insulating a wooden house.

Let's start with materials for insulating a wooden house. They must have the following characteristics:

high vapor permeability. Large or the same as that of wood 0.06 Mg / (m * h * Pa);
have high moisture resistance;
have high fire safety;
be resistant to mold and mildew.

According to these basic requirements, the following materials are most suitable for insulating wooden walls:

mineral wool;
ecowool;
sawdust-granules.

In addition, facing bricks can be used to insulate a wooden house, aerated concrete blocks, siding. Of course, a stone in combination with a heater will create the most effective thermal insulation, but then you will have to sacrifice the external beauty of a wooden house.

Important! But to use extruded polystyrene foam, polyurethane foam for insulation of wooden walls, polyurethane foam, various sealants or Styrofoam is strongly discouraged. These materials have extremely low vapor permeability, which in turn is fraught with the appearance of mold and mildew on the wooden walls, and ultimately rot.

When preparing for the insulation of wooden walls, special attention should be paid to the technology of creating a heat-insulating layer. The main rule that should be observed in this case is as follows: the steam transmission capacity of each subsequent layer should be higher than the previous one, in the direction from the interior to the street. According to this simple truth, the thermal insulation of a wooden house is created, which is a multi-layer cake. The structure of such a cake for insulating walls from the outside consists of lathing and counter lathing, thermal insulation, wind and moisture insulation. Internal insulation of wooden walls also obeys this rule, with the only difference that vapor barrier is used instead of wind insulation.

Important! If you cannot decide in any way how best to insulate wooden walls, from the inside or outside, then the answer is definitely one - you should choose the insulation of wooden walls from the outside. This is due to several reasons:

Firstly, the inner living space of the house will be preserved.
Secondly, due to the properties of wood to accumulate and release moisture, the most effective is external insulation.
Thirdly, external insulation of wooden walls is much easier to create.
Fourthly, when external insulation the number of cold bridges is minimal.

Of course, insulation of a wooden wall from the inside is also possible, but only if it is impossible to create external insulation.

Calculation of the insulation layer

Payment optimal thickness insulation layer is one of the most important milestones when insulating any house, especially a wooden one. This task must be approached with all responsibility, since an error in the calculations will at least entail unnecessary financial costs for insulation, and as a maximum will lead to damage to the wooden walls. Therefore, if you are not on friendly terms with formulas and calculations, it is better to contact specialists on this issue. We will consider an example of a calculation with comments and explanations, by which you can determine what layer of thermal insulation is required for your home.

To perform calculations, you will need to refer to SNiP 23-02-2003 "Thermal protection of buildings", as well as TSN (territorial building codes). In these regulatory documents all the necessary initial data for the calculations and the calculation methodology are given. The calculations themselves are based on the thermal resistance of materials, which is constant and separately taken for each region. For example, in the Moscow region this indicator is 4.15 (m2 * ° C) / W. It is also worth noting that the calculations should take into account the thermal resistance (R) of each material in the thermal insulation cake and sum them up. To perform calculations, the thermal conductivity of the materials used and their thickness are needed.

The formula for calculating the thermal resistance is as follows R = P / K.

Where P is the thickness of the material, K is the coefficient of thermal conductivity of the material. For example, a wooden wall is finished on the outside facing brick, and between them is a layer of mineral wool. Then the total resistance to heat transfer of such a wall will be equal to the sum of the resistances of each of the materials.

Based on the above formula, we will make a calculation for the thickness of the thermal insulation layer. The formula for calculating the following is P = R * K. We take data on thermal conductivity from the table of thermal conductivity of materials or from the packaging of the material used, and thermal resistance from regulatory documents.

For example, for Moscow and the region, the heat transfer resistance is 4.15 (m2 * ° C) / W. If we insulate a wooden wall 20 cm thick with siding with mineral wool, then for wood the thermal resistance is 0.806 (m2 * ° C) / W, and for mineral wool 0.045 (m2 * ° C) / W. Accordingly, the insulation layer must have a thermal resistance R = 4.15-0.806-0.045 = 3.299 m2 * ° C.

Now we take the thermal conductivity coefficient of mineral wool 0.41 W / m * K and multiply it by the thermal resistance P = 3.299 * 0.041 = 0.135 m. Similarly, you can calculate the layer thickness for any other insulation in different regions country.

It remains to calculate the area of insulation and purchase all the materials necessary for this. First of all, it is mineral wool itself, wind and moisture protection, as well as vapor barrier. In addition, you will need wooden slats with a thickness of 130x50 mm, a height equal to the height of the wall to be insulated, and fasteners to them. As a fastener for wooden slats you can use ordinary long self-tapping screws or metal corners with holes for self-tapping screws. The number of laths is taken on the basis that the distance between them should be 2 - 5 cm less than the width of the insulation mats. Fasteners are purchased at the rate of 1 - 2 attachment points per 1 linear meter. We also purchase 50x30 mm or 50x20 mm slats for counter-lattice. The total number of such slats is taken on the basis that the frame of the counter-lattice consists of 3 horizontal rows along the entire perimeter of the house.

As already noted, the insulation of wooden walls from the outside is the simplest and affordable way insulation. Insulation of a wooden house should start in a year or two. This is important, since the tree shrinks during this time, which leads to a change in the height of the building. In addition, during shrinkage, new cracks will be found, which will have to be well caulked.

Do-it-yourself insulation of wooden walls from the outside is carried out different ways... Consider the most common one - mineral wool insulation with siding trim. The work takes place in several stages:

1. We check the walls for cracks and the tightness of the logs or beams to each other.

2. If necessary, bump all the cracks found.

3. First we measure total length walls from edge to edge. Then we divide it into equal intervals 2 - 5 cm long smaller than the mineral wool mat.

4. We apply the markings under the lathing on the wall.

5. We prepare the lathing bars by cutting them to the required length.

6. First, we fix the bars along the perimeter of the wall. One above the foundation, one under the canopy and two at the edges.

7. In the resulting box, first place and fix the frame around the window and doorways, and then the vertical battens according to the markings.

Important! If the length of one bar is not enough to cover the height of the wall, then the missing pieces must be staggered in each subsequent rack. For example, the 1st post consists of a long piece from below, a short part from above, the 2nd post consists of a short bar from the bottom, and a long one from above.

8. Now take the mineral wool mats and insert them between the frame posts. Since the distance between the bars is slightly less than the width of the mat, the rock wool will be held inside by the spacer. To reduce the number of cold bridges, mineral wool can be laid in two layers. To do this, it is enough to buy mats of lesser thickness. For example, if the total thickness of the insulation layer is 13 cm, you can use mats 50 mm or 70 mm thick. In this case, each subsequent layer is stacked with an offset relative to the first.

9. On top of the insulation, we lay a layer of moisture and wind insulation from a superdiffusion membrane. We fix it to the frame with a stapler.

10. We fill the counter crate, thus creating a ventilation gap of 30 mm between the insulation and the finishing material.

11. Finally, the facade is finished with siding.

If finishing with facing bricks is planned, then it is better to use ecowool granules or sawdust-granules as insulation. These materials, when backfilled between the wooden wall and the cladding, will fill all the voids, thereby creating a reliable thermal insulation protection. Insulation of wooden walls outside with mineral wool finished with facing bricks is similar in technology to siding. The difference lies in the used finishing materials and the obligatory presence of a brick foundation.

As already noted, the insulation of wooden walls from the inside is quite a rare phenomenon. Usually, this method of insulation is chosen when it is not possible to make external insulation. The technology for performing work is in many ways similar to outdoor insulation, but there are a number of differences. Let's take a closer look at the stages and features of work when insulating wooden walls from the inside:

1. After shrinking at home, check them for cracks and caulk them thoroughly.

2. We drill small holes in the crowns for ventilation.

3. We mark the places for installing the counter-lattice.

4. Cut the bars for the counter-lattice and fix them to the wall. This will create a ventilated gap between the wall and the insulation, which in turn will keep the walls from getting stale from the inside.

Important! Since the insulation will not be located over the entire area of the wall, the floor will be natural cold bridges, interior walls and the ceiling. To cover them, you will need to insulate the surface of the ceiling and floor. How it looks can be seen in the photo showing the internal insulation of wooden walls.

5. We cover the counter-lattice with a superdiffusion membrane and fix it to the bars using a stapler.

6. We mark the places for the installation of the main lathing. We start from the corners and bring them to the center. At the same time, do not forget about door and window openings... In them, the bars will frame the opening along the perimeter.

7. First, we fix the bars along the perimeter of the wall, and then install the vertical bars and into the openings. We take the distance between the bars 2 - 5 cm less than the insulation mats.

8. We take the insulation and insert it between the battens of the crate. As in the case of external insulation, we lay out the insulation in two layers with an offset to each other. Thus, we will eliminate possible cold bridges.

9. On top of the insulation, we lay a vapor barrier and fix it to the racks using a stapler.

10. After completing the installation of wall insulation, we insulate the ceiling and floor. This will allow the wall insulation to be installed behind the floor and eliminate possible cold bridges.

11. We sheathe the walls with plasterboard and carry out the finishing.

The method described above for insulating a wooden wall from the inside involves the use of mineral wool mats. In addition to it, you can also use ecowool granules or sawdust-granules. But unlike external insulation, the granules will have to be blown into the space between the wall and the vapor barrier film, which is somewhat inconvenient and requires special equipment.

Carrying out work on the insulation of wooden walls requires only skillful handling of the tool. Of course, comparing external and internal insulation, we can note the complexity and exactingness when performing work inside the house. Therefore, if you do not have sufficient experience, it is better to opt for external insulation, and if it is impossible to turn to more experienced craftsmen.