A stove with a fireplace is a masonry option. Multifunctional heating device: rules for building an inexpensive do-it-yourself fireplace stove

Everyone wants to make their home as comfortable and cozy as possible. Today there are many different methods for solving the problems of practicality and comfort, but the most effective and unchanged for centuries is the construction of one of the many furnace structures. Today we will talk about how to build a fireplace stove with your own hands.

Design features

Having heard about fireplace stoves for the first time, the owners of country houses often shrug their shoulders: why spend effort on building a heating device of this design, if you can build one of the well-proven stoves such as Dutch, Swede, cap (bell stove), etc. It's all business in that they do not know the peculiarities of the operation of fireplace stoves, and in fact, when developing them, they combined all the best from two completely different heating appliances.

Combining a stove with a fireplace allows not only to heat the room with high quality, but also to make its interior unforgettable.

Fireplace mode

In this case, the smoke from the hearth through a special smoke collector will be sent to the flue located on the rear wall of the heater and then directly into the chimney. The construction of an almost straight channel avoids a decrease in traction, so the intensity of burning wood will be maximum.

Using the heating unit as a fireplace is very convenient for irregular fireboxes, for example, in the country or in country houses, where in winter they visit only on weekends. In this case, the temperature in the room will become comfortable literally within one hour.

Advantages of the stove

The combustion products do not “fly out into the chimney”, as is the case with a fireplace, but are redirected to additional channels located on the sides of the heater, where they give off all the heat to the walls of the structure. The duration of burning of the same amount of fuel during furnace combustion increases significantly, since the operation of the unit most often occurs at the smoldering boundary. This is achieved by adjusting the air flow through the blower. Due to the increase in the mass of the furnace, it has improved heat storage properties and allows, even after the fuel has completely burned out, to give off the accumulated heat for a long time.

If an irregular operating mode is expected, then most often the heat generator is operated according to the following scheme:

When kindling, a vertical channel is opened, which switches the unit into fireplace mode.
After the temperature in the room rises to a comfortable level, close the valve of the vertical channel and cover the blower door to maximize the burning time.

As you can see, the fireplace stove is a successful symbiosis of several heating devices. However, its merits do not end there.

The use of a fireplace cassette increases the hygiene of the structure and facilitates the construction of the heater

Heating appliances can be made with both open and closed fireplace inserts. In the latter case, a heat-resistant glass door or a special cast-iron cassette (liner) is used. Limiting the amount of incoming air allows you to increase the operating time of the fireplace and increase its efficiency.

Varieties of fireplace stoves

The design discussed above is the simplest implementation of the idea of a fireplace stove. In fact, there are much more efficient and functional structures that combine a separate fireplace and stove, install a hob, oven or heat exchange niches, etc.

Fireplace stove with bench

A massive structure with a heated lounger or hob is not suitable for every home. For example, for a summer residence, it will be too big, since it will occupy a significant area of \u200b\u200bthe room. If you install such a unit in a country house, you can achieve amazing comfort: such a design just asks for installation in the living room, combined with the kitchen.

Wall-mounted fireplace stove

Wall-mounted stove-fireplace will save space in a small room

This design can be built in a small house for heating two adjacent rooms. As in the design discussed above, heating units can be fired separately. In this case, the fireplace can be used for quick and comfortable heating of a large room, while the heating of the back wall during the operation of the stove will work to heat the bedroom. The disadvantage of this design can be considered the absence of a cooking stove, which, however, is compensated by the compactness of the structure.

Square fireplace stove with stove and oven

Multifunctional fireplace stove with stove and oven

A multifunctional heater installed in a large room is able to divide it into several zones. From the side of the fireplace, you can create a cozy homely atmosphere for relaxing and gatherings with friends, while the area adjacent to the stove can be used for cooking and other household needs. Fortunately, for this, the fireplace stove has a large hob and a spacious oven. The shelf above the fireplace can also be used to the maximum - it is convenient to dry fruits, mushrooms or medicinal plants on it.

Advantages and disadvantages of combined heaters

The advantages of fireplace stoves include:

the possibility of rapid heating of the room;
good heat storage capacity;
high performance;
heat transfer at the level of the best heating units;
universality;
the possibility of using for heating several rooms;
increased emissivity;
the presence of additional functional elements for cooking, drying clothes or relaxing.

As for the disadvantages, they include low efficiency and uneconomical design operating in fireplace mode, the need to clean additional smoke channels, the need for good ventilation and high-quality air flow. A clear disadvantage can be considered the complexity of the design, as well as the impressive dimensions of the structure.

Device and principle of operation

The fireplace stove is installed on a foundation slab, arranged on a drainage pad of sand and gravel. The building has two combustion chambers. The one that forms the working area of the fireplace has an increased height and can be equipped with a glass door. Often it has a curved shape - in this way it is possible to increase the area of \u200b\u200bthe reflective surface.

Scheme of the movement of gases inside a combined type heater

Under the firebox is made both in the form of a rectangle and a trapezoid. In the latter case, it narrows towards the back wall, which is inclined, with a small threshold - a chimney tooth or a gas threshold. Its purpose is to retain soot, which is deposited on the walls of the chimney. Above the firebox there is a smoke collector, which passes into a direct gas channel.

The fire chamber has the reduced sizes and the bottom blowing of air. Depending on the configuration of the heater, the vault of the firebox is equipped with a hob or covered with brickwork. The products of combustion from the furnace rise into vertical channels, equipped in accordance with the schemes of Dutch or Swedish furnaces.

The internal structure of the fireplace

If you plan to use the fireplace and stove at the same time, then equip a common chimney with two separate chimney channels.

To prevent the ingress of combustion products into the room, the smoke channels of both devices are equipped with valves, which are closed as necessary. In addition, the chimney is equipped with an additional damper, which prevents heat from escaping after the fuel has completely burned out.

Calculation of basic parameters, drawings and orders

First of all, you need to choose the installation site of the unit, and then draw up a preliminary sketch of the shape and design. Having decided on the configuration and dimensions, you can proceed to the calculations of the main elements of the heater. Since only experienced specialists can fully calculate the structure, we recommend taking the design and dimensions of one of the Swedish or Dutch stoves as a basis and integrating a fireplace of our own design into the finished structure. Of course, when choosing a heater, it is necessary to correlate its power with your own heat needs.

As for the calculation of the fireplace part, it is carried out based on the dimensions of the room. To determine the size of the firebox, you can use the finished table. The ideal ratio of width to height is 3:2, but the depth of the firebox is taken equal to 1/2 or 2/3 of its height.

Table for calculating the dimensions of the fireplace insert

It must be understood that the performance of the heater depends on how well the draft is organized, therefore, calculating the cross section of the chimney is no less important than determining the parameters of the furnace. Experienced stove-makers take its size equal to 1/10 of the area of the furnace window. The resulting value is rounded up so that a whole brick can be used when building a chimney. If a round chimney is installed, then its cross section must be at least 150 mm.

The fireplace stove, which we offer for manufacturing, has a cooking stove and can be used both for dividing a room into two zones, and for heating an adjacent room. In the latter case, the back wall of the structure is built into the wall.

Schemes and orders of the heater are given below. With their help, you can not only repeat the existing design, but also develop your own. In addition, a visual picture of the structure of the internal chambers will make it possible to understand the direction of gas flows and determine the surfaces with the most intense heating.

Schemes and orders of a multifunctional fireplace stove with a hob (photo gallery)

The orders of the lower part of the fireplace stove Orders of the upper part Scheme of the movement of gases through the channels of the fireplace Scheme of the firebox indicating the direction of smoke circulation

Preparatory work

Before starting construction, it is recommended to purchase the necessary materials and prepare the tool. After that, you can proceed to the preliminary stage - choosing a place and arranging the foundation. The oven itself is erected only after the base has completely dried.

Tools and materials

In order to build a stove combined with a fireplace with your own hands, you will need a minimum set of tools. Most likely, you already have all of the following.

Building level.
Roulette and metal ruler.
Trowel (trowel).
Pickaxe.
Bulgarian with cutting wheels for stone and metal.
Rubber mallet.
Tanks for water and solution.
Plumb.
Stitching.
Rule.
Building corner.
Bayonet shovel.
Hammer.
Cord mooring.
Rammer.

To build the foundation you will need:

Waterproofing (you can use roofing felt or plastic film).
Sand (it is better to use large river).
Crushed stone of the middle fraction.
Mesh for reinforcement (can be replaced with pieces of reinforcement, metal rods or pieces of corners, pipes, etc.).
Edged boards for the construction of formwork.
Nails and steel wire.
Cement.

Quality cast iron will set the tone for the design of the entire structure, so why not choose the best on the market?

You will also need other materials necessary for the construction of walls and the arrangement of various sections of the fireplace stove:

red solid brick brand M-150;
fireclay refractory bricks of the ShA-8 brand;
clay and sand or a special compound for laying stoves;
metal corners with a shelf size of at least 5 cm;
plywood and boards for making a template (if the fireplace insert is covered in the form of an arch);
metal valves;
blower door;
sheet asbestos or basalt cardboard;
furnace door;
doors for cleaning channels;
grate;
cast iron stove with burners;
steel wire for mounting furnace cast iron;
finishing materials (if it is not planned to joint, but another type of decoration of external surfaces).

In addition, if the design of the heater provides for the installation of a fireplace cassette, then it is necessary to purchase it at the design stage. This will allow you to accurately determine the amount of bricks and know if there is a need for refractory materials.

How to choose a construction site

When determining the installation location of the fireplace stove, one should be guided by the same rules as for the installation of conventional heating appliances. When constructing a structure near wooden walls, a gap of at least 40 cm must be maintained between them and the stove. In addition, it is mandatory to install a heat-resistant screen made of metal sheet, asbestos board, drywall and other non-combustible materials.

When choosing a place to install a fireplace stove, you need to consider all options.

The gap between the walls of the room and the stove is needed not only to ensure the safety of the structure, but also to carry out periodic inspection and repair of the side surfaces of the heater.

If the installation of the heating unit is planned on the periphery of the room, then one of the inner walls is chosen, since the proximity to the outer perimeter will contribute to the rapid cooling of the furnace and reduce its thermal efficiency.

Foundation preparation

For the laying of any stationary heater, the arrangement of a solid foundation is required. Since we are dealing with a structure that, in fact, consists of two separate units, the foundation must ensure the stability and reliability of a wood-fired heat generator with an increased mass.

Increased requirements are imposed on the foundation of the fireplace stove, because it ensures the reliability of the entire structure.

The scheme of work for the construction of a concrete slab, which is used as a support for a fireplace stove, is no different from the algorithm for pouring the foundation of other stationary heaters. First, mark the contour of the base - it must protrude beyond the perimeter of the heater by at least 100 mm. If the building is installed in a room with a wooden floor, then the part that falls under the stove is cut out. Further work is carried out in the following order:

Depending on the characteristics of the soil, they dig a pit with a depth of 0.5 to 0.7 m.
The bottom of the pit is filled with a 10-centimeter layer of sand, which is well compacted and spilled with water.
The sand is covered with the same layer of rubble, which must also be carefully compacted.
At a height of 5–7 cm from the gravel, a reinforcing mesh is installed. To do this, you can use metal pins driven into the ground or lay the armored belt on wooden blocks.
Formwork is mounted along the contour of the foundation.
When installing the formwork, it is important to set the top cut of all boards exactly to the level. In the future, this will facilitate the alignment of the plane of the foundation slab and create a good reserve for ensuring the geometric accuracy of the structure.
A solution is made from sand, crushed stone and cement (ratio 3: 1: 4), which is poured into the prepared form.
Concrete is compacted by bayonet and tamping, and then leveled by running a rule along parallel formwork elements.

After the initial solidification of the solution, the structure is covered with a plastic film and left until completely set. Cement manufacturers recommend curing concrete for 28 days, but in fact, you can start building a heater in a week. The main thing is not to forget to separate the foundation from the masonry with a layer of waterproofing. For this, there is no more suitable material than roofing material, with which concrete is covered in two layers.

Solution preparation

If factory building mixes are used for laying bricks, then they are prepared according to the recommendations indicated on the package. We suggest taking advantage of the experience of experienced stove-makers, who say that there is no better material for laying stoves than clay.

Clay solution in consistency should resemble thick sour cream

Masonry mortar is made from clay and sand, adding water in the amount necessary to obtain the consistency of thick sour cream. In this case, the amount of sand is determined based on the fat content of clay. As a percentage, it can reach up to 30-35%. It is best to mix solutions with different compositions in several containers, make small cakes out of them and let them dry completely. For work, the composition is considered suitable, the sample of which cracks the least.

Clay before preparing the solution must be kneaded and removed from it plant residues and other impurities. After that, the material is soaked in water for a day. Do not mix a large amount of the working solution at once - it is prepared as needed. The fact is that when settling, the sand will still settle to the bottom, so additional mixing will be required. And this is a waste of time and energy that no one needs.

Masonry cooking and heating stove-fireplace

Before proceeding with laying on the mortar, experts recommend folding the unit dry. This will allow you to get acquainted with the features of each row, identify possible difficulties and prepare the necessary structural elements for work.

After "dry" construction, you can start laying bricks in a "wet" way. Dry brick will draw moisture out of the mortar, so it needs to be soaked for several hours. This method is also good in that with the simultaneous drying of the seams and masonry, their mutual adhesion increases, due to which the mechanical strength of the entire structure increases.

When laying out some rows, it is required to use not a whole brick, but its half, or even a third. To do this, you can use an angle grinder, or split the building material with a pickaxe hammer.

Before work, the ordering scheme is better to print on paper. In the process of work, the rows passed are noted - this additionally contributes to a clear organization of work. We also recommend using the instructions below, which are compiled taking into account the recommendations of experienced stove-makers.

Step-by-step instruction

The first row is laid continuous, constantly monitoring the level and geometric parameters. To make it easier for yourself, the edges of the base of the furnace can be drawn with chalk on the roofing material.
Laying the first row is carried out with special care
The second row begins to form gas ducts, a blower chamber and a furnace space.
In order for the thickness of the seam to be equal to the required 5 mm, 7–8 mm of mortar is applied to the brick.
Before proceeding to the third row, a wire is threaded into the special ears of the blower door. After that, the metal part is put in place and supported with bricks. The wire is laid in brickwork - this will allow you to securely fix the furnace cast iron.
The oven door is fixed with a metal wire, which is laid in the masonry joints.

During the operation of the furnace, cast iron parts will heat up, and since metal and brick have different coefficients of thermal expansion, this will lead to cracks in their installation sites. To prevent this from happening, gaskets made of asbestos or basalt sealant are installed between the masonry and the doors.
The fourth row begins to build a combustion chamber. In parallel, they begin to form the bottom (under) the fireplace insert. To make an overlap of a wood-burning niche located under the fireplace, use a pair of metal corners that will act as a support for the top row bricks. The same corner is also used to support the brick, which closes the door opening from above. We remind you that the walls of the furnace and fireplace chambers are laid out with fireclay bricks, which are installed on the edge.
Installation of metal floors as supports for top row bricks
In the fifth row, a grate is laid on the side bricks of the ash pan (blowing chamber). Basalt cardboard spacers are installed between the red brick walls of the furnace and the refractory material of the furnace.
Before laying the sixth row, a furnace door is installed.
In the eighth row, a metal corner is installed above the door and up to the tenth row they are laid without additional elements.
In the eleventh row, a stove with burners is mounted, continuing to build up the oven array with internal channels.
Before laying the slab, the junction is sealed with asbestos or basalt sealant.
Starting the thirteenth row, a steel corner is laid over the fireplace insert. With a brick laid on a metal strip, they begin to overlap and form a mouth with a smoke box.
In the course of work, the masonry is laid out, preventing excessive drying of the solution. Otherwise, this finishing method will look sloppy.
In the nineteenth and twentieth rows, the opening is blocked above the cast-iron stove. The same metal corners or pieces of steel reinforcement are used as floor supports. The internal channels and the body of the heater up to the 24th row are increased according to the ordering scheme.
On the 25th row, a cast-iron valve is mounted. At the same time, it is necessary to ensure its tight fit to nearby bricks, for which an increased amount of mortar is used.
Installation of a furnace valve
Up to the 50th row, work is carried out according to the scheme, increasing the channels and walls of the fireplace stove.
From the 51st to the 53rd row, the heater is covered, leaving only two vertical gas ducts for the combustion products to exit into the chimney.
From the 54th row, they begin to build a chimney.
On the 65th row, chimney channel valves are mounted. They will protect the internal channels of the furnace from dirt and moisture during the downtime.

As can be seen from the order, the furnace was originally designed taking into account the use of silicate brick, with which its walls were formed up to the fortieth row. If you like this design, then you can repeat the intent of the developers. Otherwise, you can work with red brick from the very first row. The same is recommended to do in the case when the surface of the furnace will be subjected to decorative finishing.

The output of the chimney through the ceiling

To remove the chimney, a hole is cut in the ceiling. In this place, the pipe has a thickening - the so-called fluff (cutting). Its purpose is to reduce the temperature of the outer surface of the pipe. Some stove-makers do without cutting, and in order to protect the floor material from excessive heating and prevent its possible ignition, they lay heat-resistant material around the pipe. For these purposes, you can use several layers of asbestos slabs, as well as basalt or any other mineral wool. The main thing is that the thickness of the thermal insulation layer be at least 100 mm - this is exactly the requirement put forward by the current SNiP.

Through the attic, the chimney is laid out according to the scheme of the 65th row, and an otter is set up at the exit point through the roof. This thickening of the chimney prevents rain and condensate from running down its outer walls. In addition, the opening in the roof is additionally protected by reliable waterproofing.

Chimney device

During the construction of the chimney, clay mortar is used only indoors and in the attic. Above the roof level, a sand-cement mixture is used for laying bricks.

To protect the chimney from dirt, dust and precipitation, a metal cap is installed on its head.

Video: how to make a brick fireplace stove with your own hands

Putting the fireplace stove into operation

No matter how much you want to immediately after laying to test what the heater is capable of, this should not be done in any case. First you need to thoroughly dry the walls of the structure. In the hot summer period, this is not a problem. That is why experts recommend building brick wood stoves in the summer, when natural heat can dry the walls in just a week. To do this, open all the doors and valves, and remove the burners from the stove.

For those who build a fireplace stove in the off-season, we can recommend a reliable method that will speed up the process of removing moisture. To do this, fan heaters or powerful electric lamps are placed in the furnaces of the unit. All windows and openings are closed (the fireplace chamber can be curtained with a tarpaulin).

The initial heating of the heater is carried out with a small amount of firewood, avoiding an excessive increase in the temperature of the internal chambers. If the fireplace stove has separate chimney channels, it is recommended to burn firewood simultaneously in two fireboxes. The uniform distribution of heat in the oven array will only benefit it. This process is carried out 2-3 times a day for 7-10 days. The fact that the oven is completely dry can be recognized by the absence of condensation on the internal metal surfaces. Some stove-makers lay crumpled newspapers in the lower cleaning channels, by the moisture content of which they judge the readiness of the heater for intensive use.

During drying and testing of the heater, small cracks and gaps may appear in the seams of the brickwork. To identify them, all external surfaces are subjected to a thorough inspection. Nevertheless, it is not worth rushing to eliminate defects until the furnace has been operating at maximum power for at least two to three months. Of course, this only applies to minor faults. Deep cracks through which smoke or carbon monoxide can enter the room are repaired immediately and with great care. An audit of the external surfaces of the fireplace stove is carried out regularly. As for cleaning the internal chambers and channels from soot, this work is done every year, after the end of the heating season.

The advantages of fireplace stoves are obvious, since they allow you to solve many problems associated with both heating and cooking, and with the design and decoration of the interior space of country houses. Such a heater will not be superfluous even in the presence of gas heating, as it will give confidence in the future and provide an incredibly warm and comfortable atmosphere. When choosing the design of a heat generator, it is necessary to take into account all the features of the room, and during operation, strictly adhere to the dimensions and be extremely assembled. Only the fulfillment of all conditions will allow for many years to enjoy the warmth and comfort of a do-it-yourself fireplace stove.

Dacha for every Russian is a favorite vacation spot. According to the most recent sociological surveys, an increasing number of suburban areas are turning from places of work into places of recreation. Growing and harvesting is no longer a priority for experienced summer residents. For young people, the dacha is associated exclusively with a place to have a good time. Summer cottages today are visited both in winter and in summer. Accordingly, it will be necessary not only to heat the house well, but to constantly keep it warm. For a similar purpose, you should think about building a fireplace stove for a summer residence from.

It is worth knowing that the construction of furnace structures is not an easy task, but if you wish, you can comprehend it. Let's start such a necessary process as with our own hands.

List of necessary tools and materials:

basalt wool;
acrylic paint;
brick M-250 and facing brick;
construction tape;
building level;
sand, gravel, cement;
masonry mesh;
asbestos pipe 1 mm;
oven mixture;
reinforcing bar.

How does a fireplace stove work, and where is it best to place it

Scheme of the movement of air masses and flue gases in the furnace part of the fireplace and the smoke box.

A fireplace stove is a structure that combines the elements inherent in a bread oven. It is able to retain heat well. Fireplace - the presence of an open firebox, which allows you to quickly warm up the room. If you take into account a small stove in the design of such an oven, it is possible to cook food in it quite easily.

A feature of the bread oven is that it has two chimneys and two fireboxes. Therefore, it is possible to heat a fireplace separately and a stove separately. In such a design, the smoke channels will have a large number of smoke turns. With the help of such channels, heat will remain in the oven for a long time. In addition, less fuel will be needed in order to perform heating. In terms of economy, this is a big plus.

It is worth considering such an environmental criterion as healthy heat. This term implies the most favorable thermal air microclimate for a person. It is possible to use a variety of fuels for heating: peat, firewood, coal, and so on.

Speaking about where it is better to place a fireplace for a summer residence, which will be built with your own hands from heat-resistant bricks, you should know that this building is solid. It would be most reasonable to think about its construction before the direct construction of the cottage. This will make it possible to determine the place for its foundation without any alterations.

However, there is the option of embedding the hearth in a fully finished country house. In this case, you will have to disassemble part of the roof and floor.

There are some tips for completing the installation process.

The fireplace is quite heavy. Even the smallest fireplace weighs over 600 kg. Therefore, it is important to ensure that the foundation for the fireplace device is reliable.
A brick oven requires a large amount of space - much more than to build the fireplace itself.
In the finished building, it is best to build the Kuznetsov brick oven separately. This will avoid rework.

Brick fireplace device

If you plan to build a fireplace stove for a summer cottage with your own hands, you should start with the construction of the foundation. The depth of the foundation will be approximately 1 m. At the bottom of the pit to be dug, it is necessary to make a waterproofing gasket. To do this, use roofing material, which is folded in two layers.

In order to fasten the masonry, you need to make a clay solution. Clay is soaked for 3 days, after which it is mixed with sand. In this case, the brick is pre-soaked so that it does not take moisture from the solution.

It is impossible to build a Kuznetsov furnace at random. The necessary ordering is carried out depending on which particular design will be chosen for the manufacture of bricks (corner, built-in, wall-mounted). The ordering contains a description of each row with maximum accuracy.

Metal fireplace devices

The construction of a bread oven for a summer residence does not have to be made of bricks. It is possible to come up with an equivalent replacement. One option might be to install a metal bread oven.

The prototype of this type is a design, which is popularly called a potbelly stove. At the beginning of the 20th century, this type was installed exclusively in city apartments. To date, the installation of a bread oven is also carried out in country houses. This design can easily fit into any interior.

There are the following ways to install a similar chimney design:

In the event that the installation of metal fireplaces in the country, which can be self-mounted, is considered, attention should be paid to the installation of the chimney. This device must be fireproof. It can be installed in two ways:

outside the premises;
indoors.

Chimney indoors

The chimney, which is located inside the house, has the best draft. Due to the fact that it is built strictly vertically, it is less damaged by soot pollution, which can be formed during the combustion process.

In such chimneys, less condensate will form. Such a pipe can create inconvenience in multi-storey buildings. The pipe will have to take the place of the upper floors.

Making a chimney outside the house

In the event that the Kuznetsov stove is attached with your own hands at the outer wall of the house, it will be quite convenient to make an outdoor chimney. In this case, not all people may like the metal pipe that stretches along the entire wall of the house. In such a chimney, more moisture will form - condensate. This leads to regular blockages of thrust. In addition, it will cool somewhat faster, because it passes along the outer wall.

Despite some disadvantages, most people prefer to install a street pipe.

This is due to the fact that they have no desire to disassemble the roof device.

Step-by-step instructions for installing a fireplace in the country

First of all, you need a drawing.

Material preparation. The amount of material needed will depend on how much area you need to heat. You will need a brick of the M-250 brand and a facing brick, as well as acrylic facade paint and basalt wool, which has a thickness of 5 cm.

Next, the foundation is poured. The pouring takes place with the help of concrete, which is made for fundamental work in a ratio of 1: 3: 1 (1 part sand, 3 parts gravel, 1 part cement). It is reinforced with a masonry mesh, after which piles are necessarily dug in, which are made of an asbestos pipe having a length of 1 m.

The total number of piles that will be needed for such a fireplace should be at least 5. You will need to lay a reinforcing bar in each pile, and then pour everything with concrete. The foundation should be at least 3 rows of masonry below the floor level.

As a mixture for masonry, it is necessary to use an oven mixture packaged in 25 kg. This mixture can be purchased in almost any building supermarket.

3 rows must be completed in order to bring the clutch “to zero”. This is how stove-makers express themselves when an ideal surface is displayed along the horizon with the help of starting rows. Several rows of masonry will be needed to make a perfectly flat stove base.

The process of laying the base of the woodshed and fireplace. The base is being prepared, which will be used by the future woodcutter and the fireplace chamber. Before you start laying, you need to take care of the approximate layout (without mortar) in order to be able to navigate in the future laying device. After the order is laid out, you need to start working with the solution. It will be necessary to lay out 3 rows of the base.

The front side will be a chamber for a fireplace, and the back side will be a base for a firewood shed. It is very good if the heat of the oven will dry the logs before they are laid in the firebox.

So that the metal corners used in the masonry to fix the hanging elements are not conspicuous, you should hide them in the inside of the masonry.

Next to the woodcutter there will be an ordinary heating fireplace stove, for which you will need an ordinary drawing. At first, the ash pan was blown, then the chimney, screed and combustion chamber.

Installing a fireplace cassette. Before installing the cassette, you will need to completely align everything according to the indications of the building level. The weight of the cassette is approximately 90 kg, therefore, its installation is a rather complicated and responsible process. Rows are raised to close the chimney.

The edges of the fireplace are glued with construction tape. This will make it possible to get rid of construction flaws and scratches that could have been made. Rows of masonry rise flush with the top edge. The inner wall is made of ceramic red brick, all other walls are made of facing.

Using a cutting wheel on ceramics, a brick of the required shape should be formed so that the decorativeness of the masonry can hide all the iron elements of the cassette that protrude.

Mortar should not be cut immediately after laying the rows. He should twitch a little.

The ceiling is cut. The opening must be at least 75 cm on each side of the rafter.

A pipe is being made. Basalt wool is fixed along the outer walls of the masonry. All bricks on the outer edge should be glued with construction tape. Next, you should start laying.

The pipe is laid out to the roof slope at a distance of 50 cm. A hatch is installed in the upper part. A slot is made in the flooring and crate, after which the pipe is laid out to the roof slope. The pipe itself is lined with basalt wool.

In country houses, expensive heating systems are rarely installed, because they are used, as a rule, only on rest days.

Furnace - fireplace photo

You can quickly heat a country house on cold days with a fireplace, but it heats up only during the fire and cools down quickly, in addition, the fireplace cannot be used for cooking.

A combined stove-fireplace has much more functionality - it can be used to heat a small house of 1-2 rooms, cook food on a hob, and a fireplace insert with heat-resistant glass will allow you to enjoy the view of a live fire. It is quite simple to build such a fireplace stove, you can even do everything yourself if you follow the ordering scheme.

Before you build a fireplace stove with your own hands, you need to understand its design and decide on the installation site. The presented fireplace stove has two fireboxes on opposite sides: the stove firebox with a hob is installed from the side of the kitchen or kitchen compartment and is used for cooking and heating the house, the fireplace insert is located from the side of the room. For safety, it is equipped with cast-iron doors with heat-resistant glass, which allows installation even on wooden cottages from a log house.

Both fireboxes can be fired at the same time thanks to the extended chimney and a system of valves that can be used to block each smoke channel individually. To improve draft and make cleaning easier, ash pans with doors are equipped under both fireboxes; they are separated from the combustion chambers by grates.

The fireplace stove is installed on a foundation made of concrete, brick or rubble concrete. If the foundation is erected simultaneously with the construction of the house, it is necessary to separate it from the common base with a sand or gravel cushion.

When designing a fireplace stove and a chimney, it is also necessary to take into account the location of beams, rafters and other floor elements, and to carry out penetrations through them in compliance with fire safety requirements.

Necessary materials

To build a fireplace stove in your country house, you will need:

A strong desire to abandon paid installation and do everything as much as possible with your own hands;
Furnace brick - about 8 hundred pieces;
Heat-resistant masonry mixture based on clay -200 kg;
Fireplace door with heat-resistant glass 500x500mm in size;
Cast iron furnace door, 200x250 mm;
Blower doors, 120x250 mm and 120x120 mm;
Three cleaning doors for cleaning the chimney, 120x120 mm;
Two grates for fireboxes, 200x250 mm and 250x400 mm;
Cast iron hob with burners, 410x720 mm;
Steel corner with a shelf 40x40 mm and a steel strip 40 mm - 3 meters each;
Steel sheet 3 mm thick and approximately 60x60 cm in size;
Heat-insulating sheets - asbestos or basalt, thickness 4 mm;
Annealed wire for securing doors;
Sandwich pipe and chimney fittings;
Boards and waterproofing roll materials for formwork;
Concrete and rubble stone for the foundation;
Dry construction sand, crushed stone;
Fire-resistant flooring - tiles, porcelain stoneware, metal sheets.

When buying a brick, pay attention to its appearance: the brick should not be burnt, as evidenced by the glossy sheen of its surface, or underbaked - fragile and uneven in color on a chip.

Foundation for a fireplace stove

How to make a foundation for a fireplace from monolithic concrete is described in the article "". The following describes the technology for erecting a rubble foundation - a cheaper option that requires less cement for concrete.

A pit for a fireplace is dug in the place where it will be located, in accordance with the plan. The depth of the pit is equal to the deepening of the foundation of the building itself, the dimensions are 5-10 cm larger than the overall dimensions of the hearth of the furnace. The bottom of the pit is covered with a layer of rubble and rammed, leveling.
The formwork is erected to the floor level in the house from a planed board or plywood sheets, coated with bituminous waterproofing from the inside and outside, and dried.
A large rubble stone is laid at the bottom of the pit, the space between it is covered with crushed stone with an average particle size of 50 mm.
A portion of the cement-sand mortar is prepared: 1 part of cement is mixed with 2-3 parts of sand, after which it is diluted with water to the state of liquid sour cream. Pour on a layer of stone and rubble.
The next portion of the mortar is prepared, the stone is laid out again, the gaps are filled with rubble and the mortar is poured. So continue to a level of 5-7 cm below the floor. The top layer is leveled with cement mortar and the foundation is left for 3-7 days to gain strength.

The first layer of brick, which forms the bottom row of the hearth of the fireplace, is leveling. It is placed according to the scheme of the first row on a layer of waterproofing - roofing material, using a thickened layer of mortar - up to 1 cm.

Technology of laying a fireplace stove

Put the stove-fireplace on a heat-resistant solution based on clay and sand. Ready mixes are sold in oven stores, but if there is a quarry with good oily clay near your dacha, you can use it. The solution in this case is prepared as follows: clay is soaked in a barrel of water for a week, removing foam and floating debris from the surface. Drain off excess water and stir the resulting slurry, gradually adding sand to it until the slurry almost immediately begins to peel off the spatula. If desired, add up to 10% cement or porcelain stoneware adhesive to the solution, mix. After that, the solution is ready to work. It is impossible to rejuvenate the solution with cement with water, therefore it is better to add cement in portions, in the amount of solution that you can use up in an hour and a half.

Furnace masonry technology - fireplace photo

The scheme and ordering of the fireplace stove are shown in the figures.

Step-by-step masonry ordering the stove - fireplace

The masonry technology is as follows:

The first row forms under the furnace. It can be laid from substandard brick - chipped, with cracks. In this case, be sure to use the level and align the row as much as possible.
In the second row, the installation of the blower doors begins. Between the door frame and the masonry, it is necessary to lay a strip of asbestos or basalt sheet. The door frame is fixed to the brick of the first row with metal pins, such as nails, through the holes. If they do not line up with the seams, you can carefully drill the brick of the first row. The rest of the laying is carried out according to the scheme.
In the third row, the doors continue to be fixed with a wire threaded through the holes in the sides of the frame and tucked into the seams of the masonry. In addition, on top of the third row, the grate of the grate of the fireplace insert is laid according to the scheme.
In the fourth row, the blower doors are closed with bricks, fixed in the same way to the wire. Lay the grate of the furnace furnace. On the side, they begin to lay out the smoke channel, put a cleaning door. The solution from the inside of the smoke channel is carefully smoothed by hand to avoid roughness and excessive deposition of soot and soot.
In the fifth row, the installation of the fireplace insert door begins, fixing it to metal pins in the same way. It is much heavier than the blower doors, so it must be temporarily additionally fixed vertically with a wire. An asbestos strip is laid between the door frame and the brick along the perimeter.
In the sixth row, they put the door of the furnace in the same way, and then they put it according to the scheme from 6 to 8 rows. In the 9th row, the door of the furnace firebox is closed on top with a brick, the 9th and 10th rows are laid out according to the scheme.
On the brick of the 11th row, you need to lay the hob. Therefore, the brick is first laid out dry, adjusted, the position of the slab is marked with a marker, after which the brick is removed and, with the help of a grinder, recesses are made for laying the slab so that it lies flush with the brick.
In the 12th row, the door of the fireplace insert is laid on top with a brick, not forgetting to fix it to the holes in the frame with wire. A steel corner is laid on top of the brick according to the scheme. Rows from 13 to 15 are laid according to the scheme.
Laying 12 rows of bricks for the stove - fireplace
In the 16th row, they begin to perform a vault over the hob, for this, in accordance with the scheme, a corner and a steel strip are laid in front of it above it. At 17, a brick is laid on top of them, and a steel strip is next again to support the vault. In the 18th row, it is completely laid with bricks, and a steel sheet 3 mm thick is placed at the place where the valves are installed. On the side of the brick, in accordance with the scheme, a piece of steel corner is fixed - it serves as a support for the valve.
In the 19th row between the bricks, grooves are made slightly larger than the thickness of the metal of the valves - about 5 mm, valves are made according to the scheme and put in place, checking the overlap of the smoke channels. Install two more cleaning doors.
In the 20th row, a steel strip is installed above the smaller valve. Continue laying according to the scheme. In the 21st row, a steel strip is placed on top of the masonry - the chimney will rest on it.
From the 22nd row, the laying of the chimney begins: the smoke channels narrow and gradually overlap. The masonry is carried out according to the scheme from 22 to 26 rows, in which a common valve is installed on a frame made of a steel corner.
The furnace is covered - rows 27 and 28, after which they proceed to the chimney. It is laid according to the scheme of 29 rows with dressing, shifting the rows by half a brick, to the desired height. For the installation of a complex chimney, you can use a heat-insulated sandwich pipe and various adapters, elbows, penetrations and support elements.
After the masonry is completed, the fireplace stove is dried until the masonry mortar dries, after which they slowly begin to heat.
Finished stove - brick fireplace

The presented design of the fireplace stove is universal: it will help you quickly warm up in cold weather when kindling a fireplace, cook food, and heat the house well due to the long smoke channel, when passing through which the smoke heats up the bricks. The heat dissipation from such a stove is much higher than from a conventional fireplace, and this will allow you to use less firewood, while enjoying the view and warmth of the fire.

Video instruction: do-it-yourself stove - fireplace

Choosing the best fireplace stove

The new year 2013 presented new requirements for stove builders, today they are less and less ordering the laying of simple heating stoves and low-efficiency fireplaces with zero efficiency. Every second owner of a country house or a suburban cottage wants to have a universal, multifunctional brick oven. There are many reasons for this, one of which is an increase in the standard of living and a craving for the aesthetics of an open hearth that can dry and freshen the air in the house in a few tens of minutes. At the same time, no one thought to refuse the comfort of the heat of the oven and the possibility of cooking on the stove, drying fruits and baking bread in the oven.

Experienced stove-makers can argue about the advantages of a stove in front of a fireplace indefinitely, the customer does not care if he wants a stove-fireplace, it is unlikely to convince him. If the first is quite clear, then the choice of the best model for a particular room arises constantly. In this regard, I decided to create a section in which there will be combined the best drawings of stoves-fireplaces for all occasions, with different sizes and arrangement of furnace elements. There are options here from small heating bricks in 3x4 to huge multifunctional collos with a large cast-iron stove, oven and hot water boiler. Drawings of stoves-fireplaces are arranged in order of popularity 1-best, 10-less popular. Readers with the help of their comments will have the opportunity to influence the rating of the presented fireplace stove.

Orders of the 10 best fireplace stoves

Once again I want to remind you that all the drawings of stoves in this section are proven by dozens of stove builders, and fully comply with fire safety requirements, reliable traction conditions and long service life.

A novice stove-maker always wants to lay down some kind of outlandish stove. Preferably simple. Also beautiful and efficient. It is a pity that there are not so many orders of such structures.

Among them, a fireplace stove with a bread chamber stands out favorably, working according to a scheme popular in Scandinavian countries. The scheme is not without flaws, but has a great degree of universalism. There is a heating massive universal oven, a decorative fireplace, a chamber for baking bread. Simple design, multifunctionality, relative compactness. A good option for a country house, capable of heating an area of about 25-30 square meters.

We offer an order that allows you to fold the stove yourself, having only minimal skills in the stove craft. From the performer, a simple primary skill in working with clay and brick is enough. The rest is simple.

Materials for installing a fireplace stove with a bread chamber:

1 - Kiln brick - approximately 1100 pcs. If you use fireclay bricks, then it will take about 150 units. (The number of bricks is given without taking into account the cost of the foundation and the chimney).
2 - Knitting wire
3 - Cleaning doors - 3 pieces
4 - Blower firebox with air regulation
5 - Fireplace door for firebox 500x500 mm
6 - Basalt cord - 2 sets
7 - Pipe valve in a brick - 3 pieces
8 - Grate with a working area of one or two bricks

Ordering the laying of the fireplace stove

Do-it-yourself masonry is not as difficult as it might seem at first glance. Just don't be afraid. And keep an eye on the order. Further it will be simple.

First row we lay out the calculation of the body of the furnace with an area of \u200b\u200b4x5 bricks and add an allowance for the plinth. Although you can do without it. But with him somehow more elegant.

Second row already lay out the finishing perimeter of the furnace:

We form internal channels. On the third row we put cleaning channels and a blower door. They are mounted on wire and clay mortar, without a basalt cord:

fourth row get the height of the doors:

Fifth next close the doors, put the grate. If the height of the room allows, it is advisable to make another row of masonry - a more massive one will come out under. When using fireclay bricks, it's time to start laying them. We only make it under. We continue to conduct external walls and partitions of channels:

6 row- we form a tray for firewood. You can do without a bevel of the hearth, as in the figure, but this way the firebox will work better. We share channels. Small channels descending. Large - ascending. We apply oblique dressing. It is possible without it, but it is more reliable with it. If, for reasons of simplification, you rarely begin to use oblique dressing, then you should always orient it to the outside, as in the figure. Not binding to the walls of the firebox. The grate is as close as possible to the furnace door. If it falls deeper, towards the back wall of the furnace, smoke is possible - air turbulence will block the exit from the firebox to the smoke channels.

7 row. The furnace door is installed. It is installed on a sealant - a basalt cord impregnated with a clay solution.

8-13 rows. We raise the firebox to the height of the fireplace door:

14-15 rows. A place is being prepared for the beam jumper. Many people prefer to make bevels under it right in place, choosing a brick with a grinder. You can file it in advance. The first option is more accurate. The second is less dusty and dirty.

The overlapping of the door is placed as thick as a brick. Cannot be placed on anchors. Only a beam or arch (if the furnace door has an arch). It is advisable to put wire into the masonry joints:

16 row. We begin to form under the bread chamber. We overlap without iron, with a simplified wedge overlap:

17 row. We build up under the bread chamber. We follow the dressing of the slit overlap:

18 row. We mount the door of the bread chamber. We put it, like a furnace, on a basalt cord:

19 row. We continue the bread chamber. We open the passage of gases from the bread chamber to the descending channels:

20 row. We bring the entrance to the descending channels to a height of two bricks.

21-22 row. We block the descending channels, form heels under the vaulted ceiling of the bread chamber.

23 row. We mount the vault of the bread chamber. We leave the channel of the fireplace passage and close it with a valve with a long handle.

Carefully! The valve will get very hot during the process! Therefore, we put it on asbestos or basalt!

The arch will have to be cut along the top to level the masonry. Or lay out another row - this is if the size of the room allows.

24 row. We bandage the vault of the bread chamber. If there is a free height of the room, you can lay out another row. The minimum is shown here:

25-27 row. We form a cap over the bread chamber. The columns for the ceiling are placed based on the location of the chimney - its place is not strictly regulated, it can be installed at any point in the stove floor - it is necessary to start from the most convenient passage of the roof. Simply put: look at the beams. Cleaning is immediately put on - the installation point is again chosen again along the pipe - preferably as close to it as possible. Not shown in the figure:

28-30 row. Mandatory three rows of overlap. Next is the pipe. Smoke channel valves should be installed for reasons of ease of use - 2 pcs. one above the other to reduce heat loss:

During the first kindling, always open the valve that blocks the channel from the bread chamber to the pipe. Many stove-makers call it a "straight move". This manipulation will warm up the pipe. In the future, the firebox is carried out in the usual manner. During operation in the furnace mode, this valve is always closed. If we operate as a fireplace, then it is always open.

Kind and cozy warmth to you at any time of the year!