Do-it-yourself staircase from a profile pipe is created in a welded and prefabricated way. For its manufacture, side, stationary and other options are considered. For good example, the options for installing the structure in the form of a straight, screw and mobile structure are considered below.

Important Details

• For weight loss profile design use inserts made of wood, glass, stone and ceramics.
• Do-it-yourself ladder from a profile pipe is made as an addition to the porch, external access to the attic and indoor installation.
• To create steps, profiled pipes with a cross section of 5-7.4 cm are used. It is possible to eliminate jitter and vibration by reducing the length of the racks in the spans.
• The slope of the steps is 1:2 or 1:2.5, which corresponds to an elevation angle of 30 to 40 degrees.
• A properly designed ladder from a profile pipe with your own hands in the drawings has no more than 18 steps. In the presence of high ceilings, a platform is built between marches.
• For convenience, an odd number of steps are created in the march. This allows you to start and end a step on the same foot.
• The height of the steps is 15 - 21 cm.
• The width of the steps is 30 cm. The smaller the angle of inclination, the wider the treads.

A do-it-yourself metal staircase from a profile pipe can have an alternative in the form of two channels. Initially welded support frame, then a framework for steps. It is placed in two ways:

1. Over the channel;
2. Inside the frame.

In the first version, the corners are welded to the upper shelf of the channel. And in the second case, a preliminary fastening of the corners to the inclined beams inside is created. The remaining parts of the frame of the steps are welded to them. Below is a do-it-yourself ladder from a profile pipe in the photo.

Preparation of materials

• Channel 16 (height 16 cm, shelf width 6.4 cm) with a length commensurate with the march. You will need 2 beams.
• Thick-walled profile 4x4 cm. Its quantity is determined by the number of steps. To create a small march, you need 20 linear meters.

Tools for erecting a march:

• Saw for metal structures (pendulum version).
• Drilling machine.
• Welding.
• Electric drill.

Installation steps:

• Do-it-yourself interfloor staircase from a profile pipe begins with trimming the stringers to the desired parameters so that after installation they form an emphasis on the floor with the flat side of the cut.
• For a stronger fixation on the floors of the first and second floors, metal beams are laid to the concrete base under the floor surface (you can use a channel with parameters of 22 cm). The length of the beams must be greater than the width of the stairs.
• The bearing channels are fastened to the embedded beams. For this, welding is used.

Here you can find out in detail how a ladder is made from a profile pipe with your own hands on the video:

From the profile, blanks for rectangular steps are created.

• The blanks are mounted on guides and welded to them. To create a reinforcement of the structure, vertical support parts from the same pipe are used.
• To facilitate the device, steel corners can be used instead of a pipe.
• The frame is cleaned and painted to prevent damage to the structure.
• Solid treads are laid on a metal base with further fastening with self-tapping screws. For this, gaps are pre-drilled.
• Supports in the form of pillars are welded on the sides of the guide channels, and handrails are placed on top.
• Mounted on stairs vertical racks. Instead of balusters, horizontal rods or sheet plates such as plexiglass, plastic compound, veneer, triplex, etc. can serve.

Metal frame for marching stairs

Work plan:

• Profile marking and cutting, connection of frames under steps.
• Construction concreting.
• Installation of stringers;
• Equipping the back of the steps with corners.
• Welding steps together.

Installation instructions:

• The number of steps, their parameters are calculated.
• To create a frame, a 10x10 cm profile and 4x4 cm corners are used. In this case, the pipe is used instead of a channel, as it is characterized by high rigidity.
• Create a pedestal for a gently sloping structure. On the edge of the platform is placed the lower starting point of the beginning of the steps.

Attention! in the case of installing a direct structure, a pedestal is not required, since it is important to take into account starting points between floor surfaces

• This is how a profile pipe is mounted, welded to the lower platform, and at the top, with the help of anchors, it is fixed to the wall surface. Then the corners, cut in advance, are welded.
• The vertical parameters of the corners must have exact parameters, and the horizontal part of the products may protrude beyond the profile.
• A gap is created between the steps and the wall surface for wallpapering.
• On the side, a railing is welded to the profile. Usually the installation of the railing is carried out with an indent from the edge of 10 cm. However, this will affect the narrowing of the stairs.

Screw structures

The pipe for creating steps is cut into sleeves of 22 cm.

To determine the number of elements, the height of the room is divided by 22 cm, that is, the dimensions of the riser.

A gasket and a console are cut from a steel billet. The gasket is welded to the console, then the formed elements are attached to the parts of the pipe (thickness 10 cm).

Steps are placed on the gasket using self-tapping screws. The tightness of the sleeves placed on the pipe must be increased. The formation of distortions and backlashes is excluded. If holes are formed with an inaccurate diameter, seal rings are created.

Then the marking is made and the steps are assembled. It is important to provide for an overlap of close to 5 cm. The length of the circle is not less than the wider part of the steps. It remains only to assemble a single structure. Gaps are immediately drilled to fix future steps. The structure is primed.

Attention! The railing of the stairs can be created from iron, a 4x4 cm profile pipe is used for the racks, and a 2x2 cm pipe is used for the handrails.

Then wooden handrails can be built on top of the metal. Forging elements are usually used in railings. Hammer paint is used to paint the stairs.

After it dries, temporary steps are placed. This will require shields made of glued pine. They need to be varnished. To fix the steps, you will need 32mm wood screws.

Ladder

Structurally, the product looks quite simple. It forms an emphasis with bowstrings on the wall and floor surfaces. The slope of the structure is 60-75 degrees. The steps are placed from each other at the same interval, equal to 35 cm. To exclude sliding properties, tips made of plastic or rubber are put on its supports.

Materials for manufacturing:

• Rectangular or round profile 2 m long. One rectangular profile 165 cm long (for steps). Usually duralumin pipes 2 mm thick are used.
• Nuts, M8x70 bolts, washers.
• Ideally, welding is used. In this case, screw connections are not needed.
• 4 plastic or rubber protections for the bottom of the supports.

To create an attached structure, it is necessary to make a blank of steps. A profile whose length is 165 cm is cut into 5 identical products 33 cm long. Marking is made on two profiles 2 m long. Marks are made so that there is a gap of 35 cm between them.

Provided that bolts are used to fix the steps to the base, it is important to create clamps from thin strips of metal, provided for bending pipes symmetrically in shape and drilling gaps in them. At the same time, an indent from the edge of 1.5 cm is made. Gaps are made in pipes of 2 m each. This is facilitated by preliminary marking. If welding is used for fixation, this aspect is skipped.

Steps are attached. Plastic or rubber tips are put on the legs.

Stepladders - folding ladders that are indispensable for performing various works in a city apartment, in a private house and in the country. These ladder structures are comfortable, stable, compact and practical. A do-it-yourself stepladder can be made from improvised materials. The manufacturing process is simple and everyone can do it. At the same time, a home-made stepladder will not be inferior in functionality and reliability to industrial designs. This article has everything about how to do it: a description of the process and tips.

How to make a ladder with your own hands? First you need to choose the most suitable model folding design, then choose the material from which the ladder will be made with your own hands. By look and functionality these stairs are conditionally divided into three groups:

• Classic.

• Universal. Universal designs differ in that they can also be used as a regular (additional) ladder structure. Such ladders are divided into folding and telescopic.

• Telescopic models are assembled from several drawers, which are securely fixed with hooks or automatic locks (clamps). These stairs can be very high.

• Stepladder-transformer - a modern, universal, multifunctional stepladder. The transformer consists of sections that are connected with hinges. Hinges allow you to easily and quickly change the position of the sections and securely fix the selected position. The transformer can easily take the form of: classical model, ladders with a console, a convenient building platform, a conventional (attached) ladder.

Multifunctional stepladder-transformer

Structure height

How to correctly determine the height of your folding ladder? To do this, you need to know the maximum height to which you need to get from the top step of the structure. From this height they take away their height and 30-35 cm, which will allow you to perform all necessary actions without touching the ceiling with your head. stepladder for standard apartment has a height of 70 to 150 cm. The number of steps depends on the height and can be from 3 to 5 steps. For production needs and construction works in a private house, a model with a platform is convenient. More complex structure(transforming ladder) allows you to significantly increase the height of the stairs.

Materials for manufacturing

As a rule, folding structures are made of wood or metal (aluminum alloy or steel). The choice of material depends on the purpose of such a ladder, its dimensions and the load that it must withstand.

Very popular ladders made of light and durable aluminum alloys. If you plan to make a transformer, then you should pay attention to aluminum materials. Structures can be assembled from one type of material, or you can combine several different ones. For example, a garden folding ladder or a reliable ladder for construction and repair work can be made from steel pipes(racks) and wood (steps).

The best option for the manufacture of stepladders - aluminum profile or pipes. Of course, you can make a ladder for the house and from wood. This is the most simple and affordable option. But it is worth considering that for such work you need to use high-quality, well-dried wood.

Wood structures

The first thing to do is to develop drawings of the future wood structure. It is necessary to clearly understand what kind of step-ladder will have, to determine its configuration, the main parameters. While working on the drawings, they also determine the choice of fasteners and materials that will be needed to make the stairs. Complete transformer from wood, as a rule, do not.

For the bowstring of a wooden step-ladder, bars (about 5x5 cm) are used, for steps - a board (3-4 cm thick). It is necessary to mark and cut the bowstring beams of the required length. They should match the height of your stairs.

Important! To ensure the stability of the structure, the lower ends wooden beams cut at an angle of approximately 30 degrees.

The next stage is the manufacture of crossbars (steps). The number of steps is calculated taking into account the total height of the ladder and the optimal distance between the rungs. The standard step for ascent / descent is 35 cm, approximately this distance should be between the steps. It is worth considering that almost all models of stepladders have a feature: they taper from the bottom to the top. The length of the first (lower) step should be approximately 65 cm, the upper one - no more than 35 cm. The dimensions of the steps will have to be adjusted during the manufacture of the ladder. After preparing the stairs required size, it is desirable to number them on the reverse side.

If an additional platform is provided in the design of the stairs, then it is made of the same material as the steps. The second half of the stepladder (support) is also assembled, only instead of steps, to increase strength, use crossbars nailed across or diagonally (different options are possible here).

For reliable connection of all parts wooden structure bolts are used, and to ensure the mobility of its parts - hinges, to fix the position - spacer mechanisms or limiters.

Installation begins with the connection of the bowstring and crossbars. To do this, self-tapping screws are screwed into the ends, in the places where the steps are attached. All joints must be treated with wood glue. The steps should be parallel to the floor plane when the ladder is unfolded. If the stairs have a platform, then an additional support is mounted. The movable halves of the ladder are connected by hinges. A stroke limiter must be provided. Fix it on two ends. The limiter provides stability and reliability of a design from a tree.

Making a wooden ladder with your own hands

If the steps are attached to the glue, then to increase the strength of the structure, the bowstrings are pulled together with metal rods. They are placed under the steps: below (under the first step), in the middle, above (under the upper step).

To protect against decay wooden elements ladders must be coated with an antiseptic compound that creates a water-repellent film. You can also varnish the product without affecting the metal parts of the structure.

Metal constructions

A metal ladder can be made from pipes or profiles. When working with metal, great care must be taken and all sharp edges must be carefully processed after cutting.

Advice! To protect hands and feet from injury during the operation of a folding metal structure, special plastic or rubber plugs can be used.

Metal products can be collapsible (detachable connections are used for installation) or monolithic (welded). A welded joint is usually used for steel structures made of pipes and angles.

To make a stepladder out of metal, you will also need a drawing. Working through the design of a metal staircase, it is worth making one part of it longer, which will allow you to form comfortable handles on top and facilitate the fastening of hinges without compromising the strength of the structure. Metallic profile rectangular section – best option for mounting folding ladder. But the product made of steel pipes and corners turns out to be quite heavy, which is not very practical, especially for home use.

To make a ladder, you will need a metal profile (section approximately 20x40 mm). The length of the profile must correspond to the calculated height of the stairs. After cutting all the necessary parts, do not forget to carefully process their edges. Drilling in metal required holes for bolted connections. Hinges are installed in the same way as in wood products. As a limiter, you can use a pipe segment fixed with movable metal bolts.

On the steps metal structure it is desirable to provide special anti-slip pads. Now you know how to make a ladder that best suits your needs.

Making a metal stepladder with your own hands (Option 1)

Making a metal stepladder with your own hands (Option 2)

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Ladder from a profile pipe - 2 most the best options for home and garden

Square or rectangular hollow metal pipes have long become almost the main material for the construction of the lungs frame structures in private construction. A do-it-yourself ladder made of a profile pipe, familiar to everyone, is available in almost every dacha.

To weld it from the pieces of material remaining after the construction of the fence or gazebo, you don’t need a lot of intelligence, welded between the guides of the crossbar and use it. Today I will talk about the calculation and assembly of more complex marching and screw structures from the same profile pipe.

What you need to know when calculating any stairs

The calculation of a ladder from a profile pipe is not much different from the calculation of similar structures made of wood or concrete. You can’t call such calculations too complicated, the instructions are standard, but you shouldn’t neglect the stage of drawing up a drawing, or at least a sketch of a sketch, with the calculation of all sizes and angles.

Calculation of the main structure

Marching called rectilinear structures that do not have smooth curves or turns. There are still stairs with an intermediate turntable, and if all marches joining them are straight, then such structures also belong to marching ones.

• You should start by measuring the height of the future flight of stairs. This is the easiest to do. The height of the march is understood as the distance between the floor of the lower and upper floors. In other words, you need to add the thickness of the interfloor ceiling to the height of the ceilings;
• In order to make it comfortable to walk on your stairs, you need to clearly calculate the dimensions of the tread and riser. The tread is the platform on which we put the foot, and the riser is the vertical distance between the treads. In both cases, there is a comfortable operating range, so for tread it lies in the range of 200 - 400 mm, and for the riser 150 - 200 mm;

• But it is equally important to maintain the correct ratio between the selected values. There are also a couple of formulas to calculate this ratio. I prefer A + B = 470 mm (“A” is the height of the riser, “B” is the size of the tread). In addition to it, there is another formula 2A + B = 640 mm, to be precise, it is not exactly 640 mm, but from 600 mm to 640 mm;
• The minimum width of a stationary home span starts from about 800 mm;
• Once you have calculated the tread and riser dimensions that are right for you, you can already calculate the number of steps (span height divided by riser height) and the horizontal distance from the beginning to the end of the span (number of steps times the size of the tread);

With a ceiling height of more than 2.5 m, the horizontal distance (on the floor) from the beginning to the end of the march starts from about 5 m. For small spaces it makes sense to build a turntable with a turn of 90º or 180º.

• Now we just need to know the most important thing. What will be the size of the future kosour from a profile pipe. This is where the Pythagorean theorem comes in handy. For those who have forgotten a little, I remind you that the square of the hypotenuse should be equal to the sum of the squares of the legs (a² + b² \u003d c²). We have two legs, this is the height of the march and the horizontal size, it remains only to calculate the hypotenuse, which in fact is our kosour from the profile pipe;
• There is another point that must be taken into account when calculating this is the angle of inclination of the march. So, according to SNiP, for stairs in residential premises this angle ranges from 23º to 37º. If less, then this is already a ramp, and if more, then you will get tired of climbing such steps.

So that you fool yourself less with all the calculations, in the table below I have collected the most running parameters of direct marching structures:

When calculating, it is extremely rare to get integer, convenient numbers. So, it is better to round the data up, so it will be easier for you to work in practice.
And the error that remains is compensated by the height of the first step. Believe me, if it is a little smaller, no one will even notice.

Calculation of a spiral staircase

Choice in favor spiral staircase, most often done due to lack of space, although in some cases this decision was caused by the original idea of ​​the designer. The price of such work for professionals is an order of magnitude higher, so it makes sense to calculate and collect load-bearing frame do-it-yourself stairs from a profile pipe. Moreover, it is not much more difficult than working with a direct march.

As in any business, there are 2 ways, for the lazy and for the persistent. If you do not want to mess with the calculations, then you can use the calculator for calculating spiral staircases, of which there are now enough on the network. And for the persistent, I'll tell you how it's done manually.

First, let's deal with the parameters and notation. By the way, the same notation is used in most electronic calculators.

• "H" is the vertical height of the structure. That is, the height of the ceiling, plus the interfloor overlap;
• "H¹" - interturn distance. This should be understood as the distance from the step on which you stand to the step above you. Naturally, given parameter should not be less than average human height, about 185 cm;
• "h" - the height of the tread, this is what we called the riser in the marching stairs;
• "h¹" - the size of the tread or the depth of the step, as you like;
• "R" - outer radius along the edge;
• "R¹" - working radius or the one along which a person will climb the stairs;
• "r" is the radius of the central support.

• Along the line of the working radius, the depth of the tread should be in a range that is comfortable for a person, it is the same as in the case of linear marches of 200 - 400 mm;
• The width of the tread next to the central support must be at least 100 mm;
• The minimum span width is 1m, but if you are not going to make a railing, then this value increases to at least one and a half meters;
• In spiral staircases, the risers are usually left open, which is much more convenient. Compared to mid-flight structures, a slightly larger variation in the riser height of 120 - 220 mm is allowed here.

As in the case of marching structures, you need to start with a preliminary measurement. This includes the outside radius of the structure, the height of the stairs, and where you plan your entry and exit points, this is called the twist angle of the structure. After that, you can start the calculations.

For example, I took fictitious values, you will naturally substitute your own. Let the outer radius "R" = 1000 mm, the height of the structure "H" = 3000 mm, the angle of twist ω = 360º, that is, the inlet and outlet are located one above the other.

With this data, we can find the working length of the march "L", that is, the size of the stairs along the working radius line. It is believed that the working radius is about 2/3 of the maximum. Starting formula L=2πR¹.

Now let's find out the number of steps:

• Let the size of the tread “h¹” be 250 mm, the basic formula is n=L/h¹;
• Therefore, 4190/250=16.79. The number of steps cannot be fractional, so we round up to 17, in addition, the upper step coincides with the floor level, as a result we get 16 clean steps.

If we take the size of the tread at the central post as a minimum (100 mm), then we can fully calculate the dimensions of the entire tread, only for this we still need to know the length of the structure along the outer radius “Lext”.

Lext \u003d 2πR \u003d (2 * 3.14 * 1000) \u003d 6280 mm. Now we substitute everything in the starting formula.

h¹ = (7536/17) =369 mm

The height of the riser here is calculated in the same way as in the march span. The total height "H" is divided by the number of steps "n", so we get:

h \u003d (H / n) \u003d (3000/17) \u003d 176 mm.

Correction of the ratio of steps is also permissible here and is done according to the same formula as for a linear march, only the designations change slightly.

2h + h¹ = 600 … 650 mm. After correction, we get a riser height of 190 mm.

But that is not all. We still need to calculate the dimensions of the top exit area. As you remember, we have a twisting angle of 360º, the height of the riser in our case is 190 mm, the total height is 3000 mm.

In other words, having risen 4 steps, we will lose a height of 760 mm. If we take into account the thickness of the floor, then we have about 2m left in stock. Therefore, the width of the top platform should not exceed the width of 4 treads, otherwise tall people will cling to the head.

Both when designing linear marches and when calculating a spiral staircase, try to ensure that the number of steps is always odd. The fact is that it is subconsciously more convenient for a person to start and end a movement with one foot.

Assembly of structures

If you cope with the calculations and drawing up a sketch, it will not be difficult for you to mark the pipes for the future staircase. Therefore, we will go straight to the question of how to weld a ladder from a profile pipe.

Theoretically, of course, such a structure can be assembled on studs and bolts, but, apart from the complications in the calculations, it will take at least 3 times more time and effort to assemble this ladder.
Plus, this option is not considered absolutely reliable, since the bolts tend to unwind during operation. Therefore, I do not advise you to contact such models.

We collect the march span

Linear mid-flight structures can be of two types: this is a ladder based on a powerful flat profile pipe and various designs with broken braids.

It is much easier to design and cook the first option with a solid, straight pipe and it takes much less time, but the price of such a structure is slightly higher. This is due to the fact that as a base you will have to buy a square profile with a minimum section of 100x100 mm, although I advise you to take from 150x150 mm. Such stairs are much more reliable and look better.

In addition, the platforms on which the treads will be attached should not be more than half of these same treads. Consequently, it will be necessary to weld additional metal sheets with a thickness of 3–4 mm, and such an amount of thick high-quality metal inevitably leads to an increase in the cost of the project.

As you understand, horizontal treads will need to be fixed somehow on a flat inclined pipe. Therefore, it is necessary to weld platforms. You can do them in two ways.

1. After we have calculated the angle of inclination of the pipe and marked the places of attachment of the steps, to the base, pre-cut metal sheets are horizontally welded across the entire width of the profile pipe, wooden treads will subsequently be screwed onto them. But of course, one horizontal seam cannot withstand such a load, so supports will have to be welded between the sheet and the pipe. These can be metal plates, pieces of reinforcement or shaped pipes of a smaller section. As you can see, nothing complicated, but to be honest, this option does not look very nice;
2. I like the second option more, it is simpler and looks more aesthetically pleasing.. The supports for the platforms here are cut from the base profile pipe and the sheets under the treads are already welded onto them. To do this, mark a cut on it at a calculated angle, take a grinder and. From the side, such a cut will look like a triangle, and from the front side it has the shape of the letter "P". Further along our cut, we weld this support to the base pipe. The diagram shows both options.

Since the entire structure will actually be based on one pipe, the weight there is serious and there will be a colossal point pressure at the junction of the profile pipe with the floor.

In order to evenly distribute it over a larger area and insure against lateral tipping of the stairs, it is necessary to the base of the pipe and the fixation point to interfloor overlap weld metal plates with a thickness of 5 mm. The dimensions of such plates should be slightly more area steps.

Now let's consider the assembly of the stairs based on the broken version of the stringer. In addition to cost, such designs are good for their low weight. After all, they use pipes of a much smaller cross section.

It is believed that optimal size is 40x60 mm. More is possible, less is not desirable.

Here, as in the case of a direct kosour, you can cook in two ways:

1. According to the first method, the profile pipe is cut into separate sectors corresponding to the dimensions of the treads and risers, plus a margin for the pipe thickness. After that, all these pieces are welded together into a finished kosour. Sounds simple in theory, but too much in practice welding work and it’s not a fact that you will be able to cook everything exactly everywhere;
2. According to the second option, everything turns out much more elegant and faster.. The point is to cut out sectors in the form of isosceles triangles from a straight pipe with a grinder, while only one wall remains intact. After that, we bend the pipe and scald the connection. How it looks, I depicted in the diagram.

As for the plates for the anchor points, for a profile pipe with a section of 40x60 mm, it is enough to weld squares of approximately 200x200 mm and fix them on 4 anchors. Although if possible, of course, it is better to connect two or more broken stringers on a single monolithic plate.

Assembling the screw structure

Installation here begins with the installation of a central supporting round and preferably thick-walled pipe. The load on it will be serious and here the savings can go sideways. As I said, the pipe section starts from 100 mm, this is the minimum width of the tread at the base.

Naturally, the pipe itself from below should be based on a thick, reliable platform. If you are installing a ladder at the construction stage, then in order not to spend money on an expensive thick iron sheet, you can weld a crosspiece from the same profile pipes from below. Then wall it all up in a screed.

The supports themselves under the treads can be made of two types. What is it in bearing capacity, and in terms of aesthetic characteristics, they are not much exposed. It all depends on what section of the profile pipe was at hand:

1. If your tube is thin 20x20 mm or 30x30 mm, then it is better to weld the frame around the perimeter of the tread, closed loop . In order not to measure each arc separately, you should immediately make a pattern from wooden bars stuffed onto a chipboard sheet. With such a device, you will only have to insert the cut tubes into your pattern and “grab” them by welding;

1. Less hassle with the second option. But it uses profile pipes with a minimum cross section of 40x60 mm. There is no need to build any patterns here. Just cut pipe sections along the working radius of the stairs. In the outer end, in the form of the letter "T", weld a piece of the same tube, a little less than the width of the tread, and at the end weld this entire structure to the carrier pipe.

Both in the first and in the second case, one fixation point on the support is not enough for a step. Therefore, I recommend welding an additional support under the step frame. There is no guarantee that you will be able to weld everything firmly and with high quality, and with a support, the reliability of the step increases significantly.

Finishing work

Most often, the frame of the stairs from the profile pipe is lined with natural wood. According to my observations, it is much cheaper, more beautiful and more reliable.

When choosing a board for tread, the most important thing is strength, so its thickness should be at least 40 mm. The thickness of the cladding for the risers and the side string, if required, does not matter much, since these parts of the stairs carry only an aesthetic load.

Do not forget that you are dealing with metal, and, as you know, it can rust. I don't think you're going to spend a fabulous amount on homemade ladder from stainless steel. Therefore, after assembly, you first need to clean all the welds with a file or better with a grinder. After that, degrease or prime the structure and at the end apply 2 - 3 layers of good paint.

Many advise applying powder coating to the metal. So, such things as powder coating or nickel plating of metal can be done exclusively in the factory on professional equipment. At home, you can only paint or varnish the stairs.

Output

For self-manufacturing the frame of the stairs from the profile pipe fits perfectly. It is much easier than constructing stairs from wood, plus the strength of the metal structure is much higher. In the photo and video in this article, additional material for the manufacture of stairs. If your question remains unanswered or you have something to add, write in the comments, we'll talk.

If you want to express gratitude, add a clarification or objection, ask the author something - add a comment or say thanks!

A staircase made of a profile pipe (not a round one) is durable and has good wear resistance. Unlike wooden stairs, metal is more durable, although it can be heavier. The profile pipes themselves are already heavy, so the weight of the ladder must be monitored in the course of work and try not to make it heavier, but rather reduce its weight. You can do this using the tips that can be found in this article.

Before starting work, it is necessary to make measurements, according to which the staircase will be built in the future.

What you need to know before work:

1. Dimensions of the stairway;
2. Payment required amount material;
3. Stair turn;
4. Number of steps.

A stairway is a free space in the ceiling between the first and second floors. The very first thing to do is to calculate the dimensions of this opening.

The amount of material is determined after all measurements, based on an already drawn up drawing.

Turning the stairs is necessary when the dimensions or other features of the room do not allow you to put the stairs straight, without bending at an angle.

It is also important to determine the number of steps on the future stairs. It is convenient to do this, knowing that the length of one step should be approximately 30 centimeters, the width from 90 to 125, and the distance between the steps that is comfortable for a person in height is 15 centimeters. In special cases, the width of the step can reach 180 centimeters, but for such huge stairs you will need additional fastening.

Also, when calculating, remember that the average step of a person is 60 - 64 centimeters.

Installation of a ladder from a profile pipe: a drawing and the necessary tools

Without a good blueprint, you won't be able to make a quality staircase. If you have never dealt with circuits before, it is better to seek the help of a professional.

What is taken into account when drawing up a drawing:

1. The size of the stairway;
2. Turn, width and height of the stairs;
3. The number of steps.

You can also add future artistic decoration of the stairs here if you plan to embellish it a little.

The calculation of the inclination of the steps of the stairs will allow you to design a convenient and safe design. How to choose the angle of inclination of our steps next material: .

After you have made a drawing and bought all the materials, you need to prepare everything necessary tools, which will be needed in the process of work.

Tools that will come in handy when creating stairs:

1. Welding and electrodes for it;
2. Saw grinder and discs for working with metal;
3. Perforator, drills;
4. Hammer.

In order not to get confused in the process of creating a staircase in a large number of different details, we advise you to number them.

We prepare the frame of the stairs from the profile pipe: tips

The frame is the basis of the future stairs, so you need to think it through to the end, and then weld it with high quality.

Remember that in the manufacture of the frame, in any case, welding will be required. And that means the ability to deal with it. If you do not have such skills, then you will have to resort to the help of a welding master.

The frame base is most often a pipe with a diameter of about 60 millimeters.

Frame manufacturing steps:

1. Calculate the number of steps, their height and width;
2. Proceed with the installation of the profile pipe. It will be mounted on wall anchors, which must first be installed. Additionally, the ladder must be fixed on the other side, with the help of bookmarks.
3. Weld corners to the pipe. Make sure that their measurements exactly match those specified in the drawing, otherwise the end result will turn out to be of poor quality, and the stairs will be crooked and unsafe.
4. If necessary, railings can also be installed by the end of the work.

How to weld a ladder from a profile pipe: further finishing

After you have finished making the frame of the stairs, you need to move on to its further finishing.

What to do after installing the frame:

1. Make steps;
2. Install railings;
3. If necessary, decorate the stairs.

Note that a ladder made of a profile pipe is a heavy structure in itself. Therefore, you can lighten the weight a bit by making steps not from heavy metal, but from light wood.

With the right approach, the combination of a metal frame and wooden steps will create an additional effect of high cost.

Railings can also be made from wood, but do not forget that the wood must be of high quality. As a rule, oak, beech or ash species are used in the manufacture of stairs.

You can decorate the stairs already at the final stage. For example, if you chose the option with wooden railings, then you can resort to artistic carving or burning.

Staircase to the second floor from a profile pipe: advantages and disadvantages

After you have familiarized yourself with the process from a profile pipe, you should think about the advantages and disadvantages of such a design.

Advantages of a ladder from a profile pipe:

1. Good strength and wear resistance;
2. Long service life;
3. Relatively fast production time;
4. You can create a staircase from a profile pipe alone, without resorting to the help of craftsmen;
5. Ability to create stairs of any shape;
6. Price for necessary materials low.

As you can see, there are really a lot of advantages to such a ladder. Its service life is noticeably higher than that of wood, and it is not as heavy as stone. However, there are also disadvantages.

Disadvantages of stairs from a profile pipe:

1. The metal frame weighs quite a lot, especially if the stairs are large. Because of this, when finishing stairs, you have to use materials such as wood and plastic.
2. In order to create such a ladder, skills and experience with a welding machine are needed.

Do not forget that the stairs must be periodically treated with an anti-corrosion coating.

How to install a ladder from a profile pipe with your own hands (video)

A ladder made of a profile pipe is heavy and requires additional periodic processing. But the price for its manufacture is noticeably lower than for other types of stairs, and the service life is higher. Properly made homemade designs will serve for a long time.

Reliable ladder from a profile pipe (photo of structures)

When designing any metal structures, the question arises - what kind of rolled metal and what section should be used to ensure the reliability of the structure under the influence of expected loads. You can find accurate calculation methods or use software resources that allow you to calculate almost any structure. software, knowing the technology of production of metal structures and having an idea about rolled metal.

Very often, when designing small and not complex objects, for example, stairs to the second floor, one has to choose rolled metal from experience, as they say “by eye”. In order to somehow justify your choice, and at the same time instill confidence in yourself and in the customer, we offer a variant of the simplest (“for beginners”) calculation.

Suppose we need to build metal carcass stairs to the second floor.

Let it be: the length of the stairs is 3m. , tilt angle 30 0 , estimated load: 200kg. - the weight of the structure and 500 kg. - additional load. It is necessary to choose a profile pipe for the carrier beam (string)

The calculation is carried out with a certain degree of approximation. Figure 1 shows a diagram of a ladder beam,

Fig. 1 where:

L - beam length,

q - the angle of inclination of the stairs

In our case: F = 500kg.

L = 300cm.

q = 300

P = 200kg.

For ease of calculation and, given that, as a result, the stairs to the second floor will be quite rigid, allowing the distribution of loads, we will reduce the existing scheme (Fig. 1) to a scheme with a uniformly distributed load,

Fig. 2 where: b is the horizontal component of the beam,

For our case: b = L * cos q = 300 * cos 30 0 = 260cm.

Q = F + P = 500kg.+200kg. = 700kg.

G= Q / b = 700kg./260cm. = 2.7kg/cm.

Under the influence of loads, the pipe will begin to sag. In case of slight deflections, after the load is removed, the pipe will return to its original state. If the load exceeds the allowable one, deformation (irreparable deflection) of the pipe may occur. In order to avoid deformation, it is necessary to compensate for the bending moment (arising from the action of the load) with the moment of resistance of the pipe. In our case, the bending moment formula:

M= q * b 2 /8 substituting the data we get: M = 22815kg.cm.

The moment of resistance of the pipe depends on the material of the pipe (ladder beam) and is calculated by the formula:

W= M / R, where: R is the design resistance of the metal

pipes, for steel St.3 - R = 2100.

Substituting the values M And R , we get that W = 10.86cm3

The resistance moments of profile pipes are calculated and summarized in tables that can be found in the relevant Internet topics. According to the tables, we need to take pipes from which W more than that obtained in our calculations (> 10.86). Modulus of resistance more value 10.86 for pipes 70x70, 80x80, etc. If you take a pipe 50x100, then on the side 100W = 24cm3, i.e. almost two and a half times more than in our calculation. Thus, for the beam (string) of our stairs to the second floor, a profile pipe 50x100 is quite suitable. Additionally, it is necessary to check the deflection of the beam (strings, stringers of the stairs). In the case of a uniformly distributed load, the deflection is determined by the formula:

f=5 Gb 4 /384 EI where: f - maximum deflection

G – evenly distributed load

b - horizontal projection of the beam

E - modulus of elasticity (table data)

I - moment of inertia (table data).

For our case G \u003d 2.7 kg / cm, b = 260 cm., E (for steel St.3) = 20.4 * 10 5 kg.cm 2 (reference data), I (for a pipe 50x100) = 137cm. 4 (table data). Eventually:

f = 0.6cm.

The deflection is insignificant, but at the beginning the nomes simplified the task and led it to the variant of a uniformly distributed load. In reality, the load will be concentrated and the deflection can be three times more. On the other hand, we calculated only one beam (string, stringer). If we take classic version with two, for example, stringers, then the deflection will again decrease. In the general case, if the deflection is not acceptable, then you should make supports, connect several pipes, or look for other options.

In conclusion, it must be emphasized that we did not try to make accurate calculations, but tried to prove that the pipes 40x80 or 50x100 used in the construction of stairs are quite the correct option.