How and with what to insulate a brick house under the outside siding. How to insulate the wall of a house under siding The best insulation for walls under siding

Such a modern and only gaining momentum in our country method of finishing facades like siding seems to have been specially created in order to, in parallel with giving the external appearance of the house an aesthetic appearance, hide a layer of insulation underneath. Moreover, for insulation it will not be necessary to carry out the troublesome “wet” processes of hiding the insulation under a layer of plaster. Two complex operations are combined into one and everyone benefits from this: both customers and contractors, and the technology is so simple that insulation under siding can be done by any good owner with a regular set of tools.

Why do you need insulation?

Very often developers have the question: “Why, in general, insulate a house?” Really, why? After all, in the recent past no one even thought about it, but now suddenly it is necessary to spend a large sum on insulation. And many begin to remember the times of the USSR, when all energy resources really cost a penny, radiators in apartments could be as hot as fire, so the windows were open in all rooms. Gas boilers They no longer heated the water in the heat exchanger, but the air on the street and weighed so much that they could not be carried - they were either turned over or rolled on crowbars.

But this time has already passed and, returning to reality, it is worth noting that energy resources are becoming more expensive and will continue to become more expensive. Heating a home is becoming more and more expensive every year. And, unfortunately, we won’t get away from this. What are the ways out of this situation?

Firstly, it is the most complete use of energy from various types of fuel. Modern models of gas and electric boilers have an efficiency that has long surpassed 90%; energy is even obtained from condensate. Pyrolysis boilers burn everything possible in solid fuel, even generator gases, and electrical energy is converted almost directly into long-wave infrared radiation. And the improvement will continue.
Secondly, humanity has finally begun to more actively use the energy of the sun, wind, and geothermal heat. Serious projects to generate electricity from tidal waves are being considered. All of these are the most promising areas of energy development because they use completely renewable natural sources.
And finally, regardless of what source the heating receives energy, it must be saved in any case: not allow it to leave the building freely, but create a barrier to its leakage. And the first, the most effective measure- This is the insulation of buildings.

The laws of thermodynamics state that media or bodies with different temperatures always tend to thermal equilibrium. That is, the hotter ones will give off heat to the colder ones until their temperatures are equal. If you stop heating any house, no matter how insulated it is, the temperature inside it will gradually become equal to the outside temperature. Physical meaning insulation is to reduce the rate of leakage of thermal energy, which means that to compensate for losses you will need to spend much less fuel and money, and the savings are so significant that competently profitable insulation pays off in just a few years with a service life of several decades.

From the above figure it can be seen that the main heat leaks from the house occur through the walls - up to 43%.

Review of modern insulation materials

IN modern construction Many insulation materials are used: bulk, sprayed, slab, roll. Each of them can be used in different designs buildings, but we are only interested in those that can be used for insulation under siding. First of all, let's look at the main characteristics of insulation and, based on this, make a choice of those that are suitable for our purposes.

Main characteristics of insulation materials

Manufacturers and sellers of heat-insulating materials vying with each other to extol the merits of exactly what they produce and sell. It often happens that, in principle, the same insulation is produced under different trademarks and has different prices. In order not to fall into the trap of marketers, you should independently understand the characteristics that will determine the right choice.

Coefficient of thermal conductivity

Different materials have different ability to transmit thermal energy. The transmission intensity depends on the properties of the material itself, the temperature difference and thickness. To evaluate this ability, an indicator such as the thermal conductivity coefficient was introduced, which is denoted by the Greek letter λ (lambda) and is measured in W/(m 2 *°K). For the same material, this value is constant and can be found in reference books, as well as in accompanying documentation.

The physical meaning of the thermal conductivity coefficient is the amount of thermal energy in Watts that a specific material with an area of 1 m2 and a thickness of 1 meter will transfer if the temperature difference on its opposite sides is one degree. Naturally, the less λ for the selected material, the more likely it is to be called insulation. The figure shows the values of the thermal conductivity coefficient of the main insulation materials (λ≤0.1) in comparison with the main building materials.

For the convenience of thermal engineering calculations V introduced such a concept as thermal resistance (thermal resistance, reduced heat transfer resistance), which is nothing more than the reciprocal of the thermal conductivity coefficient. This indicator is designated by the letter R and is measured in (m 2 *°K)/W. Obviously, for insulation purposes, the higher the thermal resistance, the better.

Water absorption

This indicator reflects the ability of insulation to absorb and retain moisture in direct contact with water. There are two types of water absorption:

Mass water absorption - Bm=(m w/ m d)*100% , Where m w is the mass of water that the material has absorbed, m d- the mass of material in a completely dry state. It is clear from the formula that this indicator reflects, as a percentage, how much insulation can absorb and retain when wet compared to its weight in a dry state.
Volumetric water absorption – Bv=(Vv/ V 1 )*100%, Where Vv is the volume of water absorbed by the material, and V 1 – its volume in a state of saturation with water. In fact, this indicator means how much volume the material can absorb compared to its volume in a water-saturated state.

If the insulation absorbs and retains water, then its density increases and its volume increases slightly, but its strength decreases. Unfortunately, in this case the thermal conductivity coefficient becomes greater, which reduces the thermal insulation properties. Manufacturers of insulation with a porous or fibrous structure (glass wool, mineral wool) treat the material with special materials to reduce water absorption. water-repellent additives.

For walls under siding, the water absorption rate is not so important, since the insulation does not have direct contact with water. It is hidden under the cladding and is additionally protected special membranes. In addition, the insulation under the siding is ventilated - excess moisture is quickly removed from it and compared with the humidity atmospheric air. To avoid direct contact with water during transportation and storage, manufacturers use reliable packaging, which must be checked when purchasing.

Vapor permeability

A very important characteristic of any insulation is vapor permeability, which characterizes the ability of a material to transmit moisture in the form of steam when the atmospheric pressure is equal, but the partial pressure of water vapor is different. This indicator is estimated using the vapor permeability coefficient, which is measured in mg / (m 2 * h * Pa). The physical meaning of this indicator: how much water vapor in milligrams passes through square meter material per hour.

At first glance, a high coefficient of vapor permeability is undesirable, as is water absorption, but in reality this is not at all the case. Inside a residential building, in most cases, the humidity is higher than in the outside air, so the partial pressure of water vapor is also higher. Steam tries to leak through building structures from the inside to the outside, but encounters resistance from walls and insulation. I would like to note that water vapor can seep even through concrete, not to mention brickwork. The only reliable barrier to steam is metal, glass, and foam glass is very close to them.

If the vapor permeability coefficient of the external insulation is lower than that of the walls, then moisture will accumulate on their borders, which will freeze and destroy materials in winter, and in summer contribute to the appearance of mold and fungi, especially on the walls of wooden houses. Construction science says that the vapor permeability of multilayer structures in the direction from the inside to the outside should increase, then the building structures will always maintain optimal humidity. It is for this reason that it is best to use mineral wool for insulation under siding.

Fire hazard

All building materials are classified according to the degree of fire hazard, including insulation materials, which must be taken into account when building houses. Very often these indicators are neglected, but sometimes this attitude leads to emergencies. Fires of insulated facades ordinary foam plastic is no longer such a rarity, and the tragedy in the infamous “Lame Horse” shocked the whole world. A few breaths of toxic foam combustion products were enough to cause dozens of people to die a painful death from suffocation.

All building materials are divided into non-flammable (NG) and combustible (G), which, in turn, are assessed according to several indicators, we have summarized them in one table:

Naturally, the priority in choosing insulation for siding should be non-combustible (NG) materials.

Density and mechanical strength

Most insulation materials have a porous or gas-filled structure, and accordingly their density is low: from 15 (penoizol) to 250 kg/m3 (some types of stone wool). Mechanical strength determines the ability of insulation to withstand mechanical loads (compression, tension, load distribution). Under the siding, the insulation is not loaded with anything other than its own weight, so these parameters are not so important in our case.

However, the insulation must still keep its shape, be securely attached to the wall and fit tightly to it. Therefore, some manufacturers produce slabs mineral wool in which the inner surface has a density of 45 kg/m 3 - this allows for a tight fit to the insulated wall, and the outer layer has a density of 90 - 100 kg/m 3, which allows the slabs to be securely fastened in the sheathing and keep their shape.

Biological resistance

This indicator is useful specifically for ventilated facades, since the insulation is not located inside building structures, and therefore can be exposed to mold and fungi. But manufacturers have foreseen this long ago and almost all thermal insulation materials are not prone to this and can even come into direct contact with vegetation and soil, although this is not necessary.

Some types of foam can be exposed to small ones, but not as food, but for shelter - they like to make their own there nests or gnaw passages. However, if the cladding of the house with siding is carried out competently and efficiently, then the penetration of rodents is excluded.

Environmental friendliness

In the production of any currently produced insulation, they still use chemical compounds, some of which stabilize its properties, others help maintain geometric dimensions, others hydrophobize material, the fourth are fire retardants and so on. Not all of these compounds are beneficial for humans, but that is not the point. The point is how much of these compounds they can release into the surrounding atmosphere to harm humans. In fact, this quantity is so insignificant that it makes no sense to pay close attention to it; under the siding they are located outside the house anyway.

There are insulation materials on the market that are positioned by marketers as absolutely environmentally friendly, since they are based only on natural materials- flax fiber or cellulose, which are glued together with no less natural and pure compounds. Naturally, “absolute environmental friendliness” is more expensive than traditional and decades-tested mineral wool, from which for some reason not a single person has died a painful death from poisoning. Here the consumer must make his choice and we will not give any advice on this matter.

Comparative characteristics of insulation materials

Among the modern variety of insulation materials, it is very difficult for an ignorant person to navigate. There is such an abundance of names, brands, varieties that even a specialist can find it difficult to make a choice. Let's try to understand this issue.

Mineral wool insulation

First, we list under which brands mineral wool can be found: Knauf, Linerock, Beltep, Axi, Termostek, Basalit, Isover, Termobasalt ), Nobasil, Termo, Isobox, Ursa, Rockwool, Paroc, Technonicol. Isorock, Izomin, Izovol, Tehno - and this is not the most complete list.

We have summarized the main characteristics of mineral wool in a table:

Mineral (stone) wool

	0,031-0,12
Water absorption	Up to 70%
	0,3-0,6
	NG (non-flammable), G1, G2. G3, G4
Density (kg/m3)	50-225
Environmental friendliness	From basalt (stone) mineral wool from well-known manufacturers binder(phenol-formaldehyde resins) are in a polymerized (bound) state. Insulation of the outside of the facade under the siding does not cause harm to humans.
Release form	Available in the form of slabs and mats (rolls) of various sizes.

Mineral wool is the most preferred insulation material for siding. When choosing it, you should, firstly, pay attention to the manufacturer (from the list listed above), secondly, the flammability class (it is better to choose non-flammable), and, finally, all its other properties: the required thickness, density, standard size and environmental friendliness.

Glass wool insulation

Most large manufacturers also have glass wool in their product range - this type of insulation has been known for a very long time and has been used, and is still successfully used today. We present the main characteristics of this material in the table:

Glass wool

Thermal conductivity coefficient - λ (W/(m 2 *°K))	0,03-0,052
Water absorption	Up to 70%
Vapor permeability (mg/(m 2 hPa))	0-0,6
Flammability class (Fire hazard)	NG, G1
Density (kg/m3)	11-50
Environmental friendliness	Glass wool, when properly installed, is completely chemically inert. It can mechanically break down into small glass chips that can cause harm to humans.
Release form	Available in the form of rolls and slabs of various sizes.

Due to its properties, glass wool can be used as insulation under siding. Its heat-insulating and sound-proof properties, durability and safety are best demonstrated with proper installation.

Insulation materials made of expanded polystyrene (foam plastic)

Most common and the well-known insulation is polystyrene foam, or as it is called in everyday life - polystyrene foam. The ease of production of this material, with a set of the necessary qualities, determined its widespread use. The characteristics of the foam are presented in the table:

Expanded polystyrene (foam)

Thermal conductivity coefficient - λ (W/(m 2 *°K))	0,039-0,05
Water absorption	No more than 3%
Vapor permeability (mg/(m 2 hPa))	0.05
Flammability class (Fire hazard)	G1, G2, G3, G4 (unmodified polystyrene foam has the flammability of G4). Over time, the effect of fire retardant additives decreases.
Density (kg/m3)	60-220
Environmental friendliness	When burned, toxic products (phosgene, hydrogen cyanide, hydrogen bromide) are formed, causing suffocation. Rodents can live in the foam layer.
Release form	Available in the form of slabs of various thicknesses.

The main obstacle to using polystyrene foam for thermal insulation of walls under siding is its flammability, so it is better not to use it in ventilated facades or to use it with a flammability class of no more than G1. Best use of this heat insulator - inside wall structures or under a layer of plaster.

Insulation made from extruded (extruded) expanded polystyrene

By chemical composition This insulation is absolutely identical to conventional polystyrene foam, only the production technology differs. It is obtained by extrusion (extrusion) through a special molding hole. As a result, this material exhibits new properties; it has a closed cellular structure and much greater mechanical strength, which allows the use of extruded polystyrene (EPS) in such critical building structures as foundations and screeds.

EPS is produced by most manufacturers thermal insulation materials and can be found under various brand names: Europlex, Stirex, Penoplex, UrsaXPS, Greenplex, Extrol, Kinplast, Novoplex, Stirofom, Technoplex, Primaplex, TechnoNIKOL - and this is not a complete list. Extruded polystyrene different manufacturers approximately similar in quality, it may differ in the presence of modifiers and plasticizers that improve its properties. The main characteristics of this insulation are shown in the table:

Extruded (extruded) polystyrene foam (foam)

Thermal conductivity coefficient - λ (W/(m 2 *°K))	0,028-0,033
Water absorption	0,2-0,4%
Vapor permeability (mg/(m 2 hPa))	1.2-2
Flammability class (Fire hazard)	G1, G2, G3, G4
Density (kg/m3)	20-48
Environmental friendliness	Combustion products are very toxic (similar to polystyrene foam). If the insulation is unprotected, rodents may settle in.
Release form	Plates are 20-200 mm thick, 0.6-1 m wide and 0.5-2.4 meters long.

The excellent thermal insulation properties of EPS, very low water absorption and the ability to withstand high mechanical loads certainly make this material one of the leaders among insulation materials. But the ability to ignite and release toxic products limits its use in insulation under siding and manufacturers recommend hiding it in building structures. In addition, the low vapor permeability of EPS will promote water condensation on outside walls, which is very undesirable, especially for wooden houses.

Polyurethane foam insulation

(PUF) is a gas-filled plastic, which everyone knows very well from its roll (elastic PU foam) or polyurethane foam (hard PU foam). This insulation is applied in liquid form by spraying onto the surface, after which it foams and, in contact with atmospheric air and moisture, hardens. The characteristics of polyurethane foam are presented in the table:

Polyurethane foam

Thermal conductivity coefficient - λ (W/(m 2 *°K))	0,019-0,03
Water absorption	No more than 2%
Vapor permeability (mg/(m 2 hPa))	0.05
Flammability class (Fire hazard)	G1, G2, G3 (depending on the flame retardants used)
Density (kg/m3)	30-150
Environmental friendliness	Polyurethane foam is not afraid of water and organic solvents, but is destroyed by UV rays. When burned, it releases toxic gases.
Release form	Supplied as two components (polyol and isocyanate)

Although Polyurethane foam emits toxic gases when heated strongly and does not support combustion. It is successfully used as insulation under siding, but it is better to do this in stone houses. The extremely low vapor permeability of polyurethane foam can promote moisture condensation, but this material has powerful adhesion to most surfaces and “seals” the walls under its cover. A very simple application technology allows you to completely organize the insulation of your home in one working day.

Prices for thermal insulation materials

Thermal insulation materials

Video: Modern insulation materials

Insulation technology for siding

Before you start insulating a house under siding, you need to make thermal calculations to find out what kind of insulation and what layer should be used. The following table shows the recommended thicknesses of insulation made of basalt or fiberglass wool in the form of slabs with a thickness of 50 or 100 mm. The thermal conductivity coefficient is assumed to be 0.036 W/(m 2 *°K), and the heat transfer resistance, as is known from what was stated above, is the inverse value.

The calculated data are given for the Moscow region, with its GSOP (degrees-days of the heating period). This conditional value shows the severity of climatic conditions in each specific region. GSOP can be found in the reference manual for SNiP 01/23/99.

It turns out that to insulate houses under siding, slabs of mineral or glass wool, either 5 or 10 cm thick, or a two-layer structure of slabs of 10 and 5 cm can be used. How this can be done will be discussed in subsequent sections.

Surface preparation

Before starting the insulation process, you need to carefully prepare the surface. Let's present the stages in the table:

Miniature	Description of the preparation stage
	All external lamps, decorative elements, drainage system are dismantled
	If any, window and door frames are removed.
	External walls wooden house are cleaned of rotting areas and then treated with fire-retardant compounds.
	The surface of walls made of brick, aerated concrete, concrete is cleaned of deposits and dirt, and then treated 2 times with a deep penetration primer.

Marking. Calculation of the number of components

In order not to be mistaken in quantity necessary materials, insulation and cladding must be done efficiently. We can give some practical advice on this matter:

It is best to order calculations for insulation and cladding from the organization where the siding is ordered. Specialists will make all the necessary measurements of the house and calculations of all components. Considering that this will be done using a special software with maximum accuracy, this approach will lead to significant savings in the future.
When making your own calculations, it is imperative to take into account that the sheathing should always be installed at the bottom and top of the insulated wall, at the corners, and should also frame all windows and doors.

Most siding models are installed horizontally, which requires vertical sheathing. The sheathing pitch is determined, firstly, by the installation requirements of a particular cladding model, and, secondly, by the width of the insulation. The most common value is 60 cm. If mineral or glass wool slabs are chosen for insulation, then the distance between adjacent sheathing bars “in the clear” should be 59 cm. This will ensure a tight fit of the insulation.
The step of fastening the sheathing bars themselves to the walls should be no more than 50 cm. Fastening to wooden walls can be done with wood screws, and to brick walls - with appropriate dowels.
The thickness of the sheathing bars must correspond to the design layer of insulation if the wooden bars are installed directly on the wall. If used metal carcass or wooden on brackets, then the sheathing bars are most often chosen 50*50 mm, or special U-shaped hangers are used.

When insulating under siding, it is necessary to do ventilation gap the minimum value of which is 2 cm, and preferably 4-5 cm. To do this, another one is mounted on top of the main sheathing, to which the cladding is then attached. This should definitely be taken into account when purchasing components.
If the insulation layer exceeds 10 cm, then in this case it is best to use cross lathing, when the directions of laying the insulation are mutually perpendicular.

A layer of insulation made of mineral or glass wool, as well as polystyrene, must be covered with a special hydro-windproof membrane, which will protect from external influences, but allow water vapor to pass freely from the inside to the outside. The membrane sheets must overlap each other by at least 10 cm, which must be taken into account when purchasing.

After calculating the quantity of all components, you need to add 10% to them, since waste during cutting and fitting is inevitable.

Installation of insulation under siding on wooden sheathing

In most cases, wooden sheathing made of bars is used to install siding, including insulation. The use of just such a lathing has the following advantages:

Lumber has a reasonable price.
Wood is easy to process.
It has much lower thermal conductivity compared to metal and does not form cold bridges.
Wooden blocks can be attached directly to the wall; no special brackets are required.

However, wooden sheathing still has disadvantages:

Wood is susceptible to mold and fungi (removed by treatment).
Wood is a flammable and combustible material (partially eliminated by processing special compounds).
It is not always possible to select even wooden blocks of the required length.

When choosing lumber, you should always choose only those that are dried; the moisture level should not exceed 10-12%.

For self-insulation For siding you will need a simple set of tools:

Marking cord, building level, plumb line, water level.
A hammer drill with a set of necessary drills.
Electric drill with a set of drills.
Screwdriver.
Hammer.
Spatulas - for applying the adhesive mixture to polystyrene foam boards.
Construction knife with a set of spare blades.
Step ladder or platform.

We present the installation process in table form:

Miniature	Description of installation steps
	All wooden blocks are treated with fire-bioprotective compounds 2 times. Processing can begin a second time only after complete drying.
	Corner sheathing bars are mounted on the previously prepared and marked surface of the walls, which should be 10 cm away from the corners with a building level and their verticality is checked. If the walls are uneven, then wooden blocks are placed in the right places.
	If the wooden sheathing is mounted on metal brackets, then first they are mounted on the wall, and then a block is attached to them. The process is controlled by the level.
	Horizontal bars are installed, bordering the cladding at the top and bottom. It is better to check horizontality with a building water level (spirit level). These bars must be in the same plane as the corner ones.
	At a distance of 15-20 cm from the ends of the corner bars, a thick fishing line or cord is stretched from above and below, which should be 3-5 mm from the surface of the block (a self-tapping screw is placed). It will determine the mounting plane of the entire sheathing.
	The entire sheathing is installed. Verticality is checked with a building level, and the plane is set along the cord. If necessary, blocks are placed under the sheathing. The fastening step is 50 cm. The interval for mineral wool is 1 cm less than the width of the insulation. For example, Rockwool slabs are 60 cm wide, which means 59 cm “in the light”, and for polystyrene foam slabs and polyurethane foam - 60 cm. The sheathing framing windows and doors is also placed in the same plane.
	Insulation is being installed. Mineral wool slabs are laid from bottom to top, as closely as possible to each other. The last slab is cut with a special knife and the installation of the next row begins from the remaining part. This will ensure ligation of the stitches. Narrow non-standard pieces near window and doorways, as well as corners are cut and laid last.
	Fastening mineral wool to walls is best done with special dowels with a wide head (fungi, umbrellas) of appropriate length. To do this, a dowel is inserted into a pre-drilled hole until it stops, and then its central part is driven in. One 600*1200 mm slab requires at least 5 dowels (one in the center and the rest 15 cm from the corners). It is allowed to fasten two layers of mineral wool slabs at once with long dowels.
	Fastening polystyrene foam boards to wooden walls is done with dowels, and to brick or concrete walls - with a special adhesive composition and umbrella dowels. Calculation of the number of dowels is done similarly to mineral wool. Adjacent fastening with dowels at the joints of sheets is allowed. Laying is done from bottom to top. If there are gaps at the joints of the plates, they are blown out polyurethane foam.
	Rolled mineral or glass wool insulation is unwound from top to bottom. The insulation is attached to the walls with umbrella dowels at the rate of 5 pieces. per 1 square meter. Excess parts of the roll are cut off and used further.
	Polyurethane foam insulation is sprayed between the sheathing beams in a layer of the required thickness. After complete drying, excess insulation is cut off with a sharp knife. The plane is checked with a rule or a cord.
	A hydro-windproof membrane is installed on top of the insulation. The canvases are attached horizontally from bottom to top to the sheathing beams using a construction stapler in increments of no more than 20 cm with 10 mm staples. The overlap of adjacent canvases on each other is 10 cm. The joints are additionally taped with reinforced tape. Polyurethane foam insulation and extruded polystyrene foam do not need to be covered.
	A sheathing under the siding is mounted on top of the hydro-windproof membrane on the insulation sheathing bars. It will provide a ventilated gap between the insulation and the sheathing. To do this, bars 5040 mm (5030 mm are allowed) are attached to the insulation sheathing using wood screws in increments of no more than 40 cm.
	Siding is installed in accordance with the manufacturer's recommendations. It is best to do this immediately after installing the insulation.

Prices for mineral wool

Mineral wool

Video: Insulating a house with Rockwool mineral wool

Features of installing two-layer insulation on a cross frame

A cross frame under the siding is installed when it is necessary to make multi-layer insulation, for example, a reinforced concrete house with a wall thickness of 230 mm, built in the Moscow region, requires a mineral wool thickness of 150 mm. This can only be achieved by using 100 mm and 50 mm thick slabs, since 150 mm slabs are not produced.

With the insulation method described above, you will have to construct a sheathing 150 mm deep, which will require the use of massive timber 150 * 100 mm. Timber has 30 times greater thermal conductivity than mineral wool; accordingly, the effectiveness of such insulation is sharply reduced, but there is a very good way out from this situation - the use of a cross frame. How this method is implemented in practice is shown in the figure.

It is obvious that the use of a cross frame increases the thermal properties of insulation; such a design is more reliable and durable, but also material-intensive. Let us describe the main features of installing a cross frame:

The walls of the house to be insulated are marked. The first frame should be mounted horizontally rather than vertically. The distance between the bars of the first frame should be 1 cm less than the mineral or glass wool slabs and exactly match the dimensions of the polystyrene foam slabs.
The lower and upper horizontal bars of the frame are mounted. Horizontalness is checked with water or laser level. The beams must lie in the same plane, since they will determine the plane of the entire cladding of the house.
A cord is stretched between the beams at the beginning and at the end, which will set the plane for the entire first sheathing.
All beams are mounted first horizontal sheathing screws to a wooden wall or dowels to stone walls. The fastening step is no more than 50 cm.

The first layer of insulation is laid horizontally between the beams. Expanded polystyrene boards are glued to stone walls with a special compound. The first layer is not fixed with disc dowels; this must be done after laying the second layer.
In the future, the process of installing the frame is absolutely identical to that described above, only the bars of the vertical sheathing are attached not to the walls, but to the first sheathing using self-tapping screws of the appropriate length. Fixing the insulation with umbrella dowels is done immediately through two layers.

Installation of insulation under siding using a frameless method

Received wide use method of insulation under siding using a frameless method. Some people mistakenly believe that the frame is completely absent, but this is not true; without it, siding cannot be installed. The fact is that the insulation is attached to the walls and it is not located between the sheathing beams. Insulation in this way is possible when the walls of the house are smooth and allow the insulation to be mounted directly on them, for example, houses made of timber or plastered brick. Let us list the advantages of this method of insulation:

With the frameless method, a layer of insulation completely covers the walls of the house, which affects the thermal characteristics.
This method of insulation is less material-intensive.
The insulation technology is much simpler, so it can be done independently.

The disadvantages of this insulation method are:

Availability of prepared, smooth walls.
The difficulty or even impossibility of implementing two-layer insulation.
Less mechanical strength of siding facing a house.

Let's consider the procedure for installation work with frameless insulation. As an example, let’s take insulation with mineral wool slabs and a frame made of metal plasterboard profiles. The installation steps are presented in the table:

Miniature	Description of installation steps
	On the walls of the house prepared for finishing, the position of the future sheathing for siding is marked. To do this, use a marking cord to mark vertical lines—the axes of the sheathing. The interval is determined by the siding manufacturer's recommendations (usually 60 cm). The position of the sheathing around window and door openings is also marked.
	The marked lines mark the positions of the brackets - straight U-shaped hangers for drywall. Suspensions should be installed at the beginning and end of the sheathing profile, and the rest at intervals of no more than 60 cm.
	Suspensions are mounted in the designated places: on wooden walls using screws with a press washer, and on stone walls using driven dowels 640 or 860. Each suspension should have two screws (dowels). After installation, the legs of the hangers are immediately bent by 90° so that they are perpendicular to the wall.
	Insulation boards are attached to the walls of the house according to the manufacturer’s recommendations. In the places where the legs of the U-shaped hangers are located, a careful cut is made in the slab with a sharp knife. Some rigid basalt wool slabs can be attached to stone walls using a special adhesive mixture. Each 600*1200 mm slab is additionally secured to the wall with four disc-shaped dowels of the appropriate length.
	A hydro-windproof membrane is attached to the mineral wool slabs protective layer inward (manufacturer's logo outward). To do this, the edge of the membrane is secured with two dowels, the membrane is unwound vertically from top to bottom and secured in the center of each mineral wool slab with a disc-shaped dowel. All joints must have an overlap of 10 cm. In the places of the U-shaped hangers, neat cuts are made with a knife.
	All joints of the hydro-windproof membrane are taped with wide reinforced tape.
	The outermost profiles of the sheathing are mounted on each wall. For this purpose, ceiling profiles for plasterboard PP 6027 (CD 6027) are used. The profile is pressed against the membrane and insulation (not too tightly) and attached to the hangers using sharp metal screws with a press washer (bugs, fleas, tacks). The legs of the suspension are bent to the side. During installation, verticality should be controlled using a building level or plumb line.
	A cord is stretched between the outer profiles at the top and bottom (as when installing wooden sheathing) to control the plane.
	The entire lathing is installed from PP 60*27 profiles, including those framing window and door openings. During installation, verticality and plane are controlled.
	According to the manufacturer's instructions, the siding is installed on the sheathing using self-tapping screws with a press washer.

With the frameless method, there is no need to make a counter-lattice, which ensures ventilation of the insulation. Metal profiles simultaneously serve as the basis for siding, fix the membrane and also create required clearance for ventilation.

Conclusion

Summing up the article, it is quite appropriate to draw several conclusions:

For insulation under siding, it is most preferable to use mineral wool slabs. This material combines excellent thermal insulation properties, non-flammability, ease of installation, good vapor permeability, durability, environmental friendliness, biological stability and a reasonable price.
When choosing a specific brand of insulation, it is better to trust well-known brands and buy only from trusted places.
For insulating wooden houses made of logs in one layer, the best way is to use a frame insulation method with wooden lathing.
It is more suitable for insulating houses made of timber or stone houses with plastered walls. frameless method with sheathing made of plasterboard profiles.
If the insulation is used in two layers, then The best decision- this is cross wooden frame.
For mineral and glass wool, the use of a waterproof membrane is mandatory!
should begin immediately after insulating the house.

The use of siding in modern construction is understandable. The material makes the house attractive appearance, hides any surface defects. The coating installation process is simple and quick.

One of the advantages of the material is the possibility of installing heat-insulating materials. No additional mixtures such as plaster are required. To carry out the work, you need to know the features of each type of insulation and the stages of installation of heat-insulating materials.

Answering the question, how to insulate a house under siding? It is necessary to understand the features of each of them. There are many materials with different characteristics. Each has its own characteristics, which must be taken into account during installation. Depending on the characteristics, a choice is made in favor of one composition or another. Some of them are not suitable for installation under siding.