We install doors in a variety of ways. Telescopic extensions for interior doors and entrance doors as the best way out for a home master Installing wide extensions for interior doors

Each interior door after installation needs a finishing touch - extensions. This element allows you to give the design a complete look. Dobors are boards that frame the door leaf. They close the gaps that remain after the installation of the door. Even a novice master can install them. To do this, you need to consider the interior doors. Detailed instructions will be provided below.

Why are supplements needed?

Many novice masters are interested in how to install an extension on the interior door "Tanganyika", "Terra", "Modern Nika" and other popular models. This is an easy procedure. However, you should be aware of some of the nuances of doing this work.

Why are supplements needed at all? These are decorative boards that frame the door leaf. Two of them are vertical and one is horizontal. They are designed to increase the space that the door frame can cover. It becomes larger, so all the flaws made during the installation of the door become invisible.

Dobors are created from different materials. It can be natural wood, MDF, chipboard. Sometimes door manufacturers supply slats along with the door leaf. However, sometimes they are purchased separately. Planks can be of different widths. In a room with thin walls, thin extensions will be appropriate, and in a room with thick partitions, wide ones. This indicator can vary from 8 to 55 cm.

Varieties

There are several types of extensions. They may be without edges. In this case, the ends of the board will not be protected by a layer of decorative film. A simple edging with an edge is protected by a special layer on all sides. There are also telescopic extensions. In their ends there are special grooves with which fixation is made.

The first two types of extensions are straight planks. They have straight cuts. Experts recommend installing extensions with an edge. Such products allow you to close the entire cut. In this case, the door will look nice and neat. If you choose extensions without an edge, there is a chance that they will not completely close the cut.

Many owners are interested in how to install telescopic extensions on interior doors. This is a more modern type of boards. They have a groove with which a tight fastening is made, which does not require the use of additional materials. The dobor is connected to the door frame or platbands without glue.

Installation methods

Do-it-yourself installation of dobors on interior doors can be done in different ways. The design forms the letter "P". It can be attached in a variety of ways. You can fix the boards directly to the door frame or to the wall in the opening area. You can also install the strips on the mounting beam, which is located between the vertical sections of the opening and the extensions.

It should be noted that during operation, a high load will not act on the slats. Nevertheless, in order for the extensions to be firmly fixed in place, glue is often used. However, experts advise using self-tapping screws for these purposes.

Fixation with hardware is made from the front side. Therefore, it is important to deepen their hats. So the fastener will not be visible, will not interfere with the opening and closing of the door leaf. On top of the hats, you need to close them with special plugs to match the extensions or cover them with mastic.

Preparatory work

Having figured out what extensions are, you can choose the best option for your door. It is necessary to determine which option the manufacturer provided for a particular model. It should be noted that the installation of telescopic extensions on interior doors is not always possible. We need grooves in which it will be possible to install the strips.

After choosing the type of extensions, you need to calculate the dimensions for each side. It is especially important to pay attention to their width. Subsequently, it will be impossible to correct this characteristic. Removing the length of the extensions is quite simple.

Next, you need to prepare the surface for installation. Excess foam must be cut off with a knife. Also, all contaminants must be removed from the surface of the base. Otherwise, distortions may appear. Proper surface preparation ensures good adhesion of the extensions to it. After that, you can proceed directly to the installation.

What else to consider before installation?

When studying the technology of how to install interior doors yourself with an extension, you should pay attention to the installation of decorative strips. Often beginners make mistakes in the course of such work. Having installed a box for an interior door, they may notice a significant skew. In this case, the addition will not help. You need to pay attention to correction.

If the deviation of the upper bar in the horizontal plane is more than 5% of the total length, it will not be possible to install the extensions correctly. Of course, the master can fit the canvas to such a box. However, the presence of such a defect indicates serious errors made during installation.

To eliminate them, you will need to dismantle the entire structure. It is necessary to find out what exactly led to such a violation. Only by eliminating the error, it will be possible to install extensions. Otherwise, they will not improve the appearance of the door immediately after installation. During operation, they crack and deform. To prevent this situation, you need to pay attention to the exact installation of the structure.

Tools and materials

To perform all the manipulations quickly and correctly, you need to prepare a manual milling machine designed for woodworking. Be sure to prepare a manual parquet (circular) saw. In the course of work, a clamp is required. She should have a soft lining on the bed.

If there is no such material on the instrument, it is quite possible to fit it yourself. This will require several heat shrink tubing. They are put on the tool and heated over a gas burner. It is necessary to keep the material at a distance from the flame of about 40-50 cm (not closer). Such tubes should be put on the clamp in 3 or more layers.

You will also need stools of the same height. They shouldn't wobble. Several wooden planks should be prepared. Their cross section can be 30x30 or 40x40. Several wedges are cut from the same rail. You will also need a few strips of packing plywood. Drywall strips will also work.

Beginning of work

To install extensions for interior doors with your own hands, you need to follow the advice of experts. The opening prepared for installation must be properly marked. This procedure is called retraction. To do this, you need to use the Pythagorean formula. According to his theorem, in a right triangle, as everyone knows from school, the sides are related as follows: 3x4x5.

It should be noted half the width of the opening. At the bottom, this segment is equal to 3. For example, the width of the opening is 70 cm. Half of it will be 35 cm. The base length is 11.6 cm. You need to make marks with a cord, starting from the corners. Each of them should be 5.83 cm from each corner. From the intersection of these points to the middle of the width there should be a distance equal to 4 shares. This line will be perpendicular to the plane of the box.

From this line, all further horizontal measurements can be taken. The vertical plane of the opening can be checked with a plumb line. If you do not want to carry out such calculations, you should use the laser level. This is an accurate device that will allow you to perform all measurements correctly.

What not to do

Considering how to install extensions on interior doors, you should pay attention to some mistakes that beginners make.

Professional builders argue that it is impossible to use a carpenter's triangle during the measurement. The error will be large. Therefore, the gap between the door frame and the leaf can be large. It is better to use a calculation system or a laser level.

uneven walls

Installing extensions on interior doors requires accurate measurements. In typical apartments, and even in private houses, it is not uncommon for the walls in the room to be sloped, uneven. If the indicator does not deviate by more than 5 mm over the entire height of the door, this situation does not need to be corrected.

However, it often happens that the deviation at different points of the opening is greater. In this case, when cutting additional boards, this feature will need to be taken into account. In this case, they are cut into a wedge.

Self-tapping installation

How to install extensions on interior doors? Most often, the owners of apartments and houses use self-tapping screws during this work. This is a reliable way to fix. If the slats are not telescopic (they do not have grooves), start the installation from the top slat. You need to measure its length and cut off the excess. Having attached the board to the wall, you need to check everything again. Then you can screw it to the wall.

After that, you can install the side boards. They are customized to size. For each side of the opening, the length of the side strips may vary. Next, holes for self-tapping screws are drilled in the slats. Attach a bar to the wall and screw it to the wall.

After that, you need to seal the joints. Hats deepen into the material. To do this, the holes are closed with plastic plugs. You can also just pick up a sealant to match the extensions. They cover all the holes in the boards.

telescopic dobor

How to properly install telescopic extensions on the interior door? This is a fairly simple procedure. Even if there are small errors, they can be masked. Telescopic slats allow you to do this. In this case, the installation procedure will take a minimum amount of time. The installation of telescopic extensions requires a minimum number of tools.

First, the wall surfaces are prepared accordingly. After that, the strips are applied to the surface, once again checking the correctness of the measurements. The installation of the telescopic dobor also begins with the top bar. After that, the length of the sidewalls is measured. The excess is cut off.

The groove is inserted into the lock to such a depth that the bar can completely cover the wall. Using a rubber mallet, lightly tap on the joint surface. So the keys will be better fixed. If the groove and spike do not fit snugly against each other, they stagger, you need to use glue in your work. To do this, get liquid nails. After the extensions are installed, it will be possible to proceed with the installation of platbands.

Application of glue

Installation of extensions on interior doors can be done without self-tapping screws or tongue-and-groove joints. In this case, the strips are fixed with glue. This is a fast procedure. The outer side of the extensions remains intact. This is especially important when installing MDF planks. When drilling holes, the top decorative layer may crack. In this case, the appearance of the add-on will be spoiled.

To avoid such troubles, you need to clean the opening from debris, foam, etc. Next, special glue is applied to the back surface of the plank. The plank is applied to the base. Then you need to wait until the composition dries. This option is pretty simple. However, the base must be level. Otherwise, over time, in some places, the extension will peel off the surface.

Having considered how to install extensions on interior doors, you can perform all the steps yourself. The quality of the finished work will be high if the calculations are carried out very accurately. A large error can lead to serious design defects.

When choosing interior doors, we want them to have a beautiful aesthetic appearance in addition to practicality. Well-chosen elements and correctly executed installation of extensions on the door will make the room more attractive and comfortable. The article considers the types of products, their features and methods of installation.

Door extensions are designed to create beautiful door portals that will look better and richer. The addition of the box when installing the door is required if there is a gap between the wall and.

In addition, structures are necessary for:

• Closing irregularities.
• Slope masking.
• Strengthening the entire structure of the doorway.
• Prevention of distortions of the door frame.

Product types

Dobory on the door - these are additional strips that close the wall in the opening, "getting" its thickness, which lacks the width of the box.

The main types of extensions are presented in the table:

Dobor type	Peculiarities
	This is a strip of laminate or MDF that does not have a facing edge. In this case, the installation of do-it-yourself doors with an extension must be done with great care. A deviation of even two millimeters will reveal the gray raw edge of the part.
	The end of the part is preliminarily closed with an edge tape matched to its tone, which will make small flaws invisible. The price of the edge is very small, it is glued quickly with a conventional iron. This method prevents MDF boards from swelling under the influence of moisture, which is especially important for door blocks installed in bathrooms and kitchens.
	This is the most complex dobor design. Its feature is the presence of special grooves that allow installation without the use of screws and nails. At the same time, the extension fits perfectly with the box and. The width of the element is regulated by the depth of the groove.
	A feature of the combined design is an addition + platband. In appearance, the product is a decorative corner with grooves of great depth. Doors with extensions of this type are installed only when facing a small amount, up to 45 mm.

The advantages of installing extensions are:

• High speed finishing process of the doorway.
• The room can be quickly given an aesthetically complete look.
• The absence of moisture on wood and MDF protects the structure from deformation, peeling of the outer layer of the finishing coating.
• Planks hide the joints of the wall with the box.
• When moving the sash, vibration on the box leads to cracks in the plaster or wallpaper. Dobory mask this area, as in the photo.

Materials for extensions

In the manufacture of elements, most often used:

• Wood. This is an environmentally friendly material, but its disadvantage is that it can deteriorate due to adverse conditions that arise during operation, which requires additional processing.

• Plastic. But for the arrangement of extensions, the usual cheap material will not work, it is necessary to choose high-strength plastic, better reinforced with metal.

• MDF. Due to the low mechanical strength and instability to moisture, such materials are most often used for arranging interior openings. During installation, cracking of the planks is possible, for example, when hammering nails. Therefore, you must first drill a mounting hole to install the fastener.

• Chipboard. It has a lower quality, but can be used to finish the internal front door in the house, has a low cost.

Calculation of the number of elements

Domestic manufacturers, for serial production, produce doors of different widths, 2 meters high, and European sets have a height of 2.1 meters. The platbands, respectively, have the same length.

In this case, the width of the door extensions can vary from 50 to 550 mm, and the thickness is selected according to the thickness of the groove present at the end of the main frame. High-quality extensions made of MDF, solid wood, laminate, usually have a thickness of 10 mm.

If you have no experience in installing door fittings, but you really want to do everything beautifully and neatly, then you need telescopic extensions for interior doors. Next, we will step by step analyze what it is, what such accessories are made of and what are the sizes of telescopic extensions for interior doors and entrance doors, and for practitioners we will clearly show the installation of extensions with our own hands.

Telescopic extensions for interior doors are considered the best way out for a novice master.

To begin with, let's look at what an extension is and how a telescopic extension differs from a regular one.

Dobor called a bar that is installed on the end of the doorway and is located between the door frame (chute) and the outer door trim framing the doorway.

Dobors are not installed on all doors. If the wall thickness does not exceed 140 mm, then in principle you do not need any extensions. Such fittings are installed only if the doorway is located on a thick wall or wall and the thickness of the box is not enough to cover the end of the wall completely.

Professionals distinguish 3 types of extensions:

1. telescopic structures;
2. Straight planks with an edge;
3. Straight planks without edges.

Between themselves, additional strips differ only in installation technology and appearance.

As shown in the diagram above, the options with and without an edge differ only in the presence of this very edge. The edge does not perform any practical function, only decor. The price of planks without an edge is a little lower, but believe me, such savings are not the best way out.

If the platband moves a little, then the owners will either have to glue the end of the plank with something, or pick up the paint to match the platband. In any case, both options will be noticeable and they look, to put it mildly, not very beautiful.

Telescopic extensions for interior doors differ from ordinary straight ones by the presence of a groove at the end, which faces the casing. On the opposite side in such structures there may be a spike, a straight cut or the same groove.

There is a small nuance here, for the normal installation of a telescopic extension, a special groove must be cut on the door frame. In turn, the platbands also need to be taken not simple, but L-shaped. Moreover, the groove on the box is cut in the factory using a special tool. At home with their own hands, and even not a very experienced master, such work is beyond the power.

Under the telescopic extension, you need to take a door frame with a groove and an L-shaped platband.

By the way, if you decide to install ordinary straight additional strips on your opening, then step-by-step installation instructions and practical advice on choosing this product can be found

Subtleties of choice

It is advisable to buy such fittings immediately, along with the door frame, because after installing the door frame it will be difficult to guess the shade of the extension.

Selection of planks by size

A telescopic extension for an interior door and a similar design for an entrance door differ only in thickness and material of manufacture. We will talk about the material a little later, but now we will analyze what sizes of telescopic extensions exist.

The thickness of the telescopic extension for interior doors starts from 10 mm.

Since the design is equipped with an end groove, its thickness cannot be less than 10 mm. Although in fairness it should be noted that there are strips in which the main body of the extension has a thickness of about 7 mm, but in such strips there are overlays along the edges that form a groove.

The thickness of the extensions for interior doors ranges from 10 to 14 mm. They can also be used under entrance doors, but still, if conditions allow, then for entrance doorways it is better to take strips thicker than 15 - 25 mm.

Under the openings for the entrance doors, it is advisable to take additional telescopic slats thicker.

In the windows of building stores, you can now find telescopic additional strips with a width of 90 mm to 400 mm. But the most popular sizes are 90 mm, 130 mm and 170 mm.

The most common telescopic designs are 90, 130 and 170 mm in size.

If you need a non-standard, very wide additional bar, then it can be ordered at any workshop specializing in the manufacture of doors or furniture assembly. But you can go the other way and assemble such an addition from several planks.

If the smooth joining of straight bars is rather problematic, then telescopic structures are easily joined using thin connecting bars, in the diagram below this the structural element is listed as a "fixing element".

It will not be difficult to assemble a wide extension from several telescopic slats.

As for the length, the dimensions of the telescopic slats range from 2150 mm to 2500 mm. For narrow interior doors, for example, in services, it is advisable to take long strips, there is less waste from them.

By the way, in stores there are often substandard additional slats, for example, scratched or chipped, such slats are much cheaper. If there is the right color, then you can save money by taking 2 normal strips for side extensions and 1 substandard, for the upper crossbar, because you still have to cut it and the damaged part will be cut out.

Standard complete set of structures with telescopic extensions.

What doboris are made of

In general, additional slats are made of MDF, natural wood, chipboard, plastic and metal. But telescopic structures are only wooden, made of MDF and chipboard.

• Natural wood - it makes sense to take extensions from natural wood only under a similar door leaf. If you have a hollow door leaf with a laminated finish, then the dissonance between the wood trim and the laminate will be very noticeable;

If you are going to make a telescopic extension with your own hands, then natural wood will be the best material for this.

• MDF - this material is now perhaps the most popular in the manufacture of extensions. MDF is not afraid of moisture, is quite resistant to mechanical damage and has an acceptable cost. Plus, under wooden doors, you can take MDF covered with natural veneer, which will be much cheaper than buying a wooden extension;

Veneered MDF is visually no different from natural wood.

• Chipboard - this option can be safely called a budget one. Additional strips made of laminated chipboard are the cheapest of telescopic structures, but this is where their advantages end. Chipboard is afraid of moisture, plus thin strips in the grooves break easily, so if there is an alternative, it is better to refuse to install chipboard.

MDF is the optimal material for telescopic extensions.

How to install a telescopic extension

As we already mentioned, the installation of a telescopic extension is much easier compared to the installation of its direct counterparts. The main thing here is to choose the right size of the bar, and then everything is elementary simple.

As a rule, all telescopic extensions are initially equipped with grooves on both sides. So you need to cut off or break off the back of the groove from the side of the door frame and insert the remaining whole spike into the groove of the door frame.

In order for the extension to fit into the groove on the door frame, part of the groove on it must be removed.

After that, all you have to do is insert the L-shaped trim into the dobor groove and adjust so that everything fits exactly. If the platband is attached to the wall, then it makes no sense to put the additional plank on the glue, plus the non-glued structure can be disassembled if necessary. The video in this article shows the entire installation clearly.

Conclusion

As you can see, the telescopic dobor is simply mounted. The main thing is not to forget about the recommendations that we gave when choosing the material and you will succeed.

If you are engaged or plan to engage in the installation of doors, then you should think over every step of your work in advance. So, an important element of the doors are extensions. If earlier, in Soviet times, this was not necessary, now technologies have changed. In this article, we will find out why dobors are needed and how do-it-yourself installation of dobors on interior doors is done.

Extras - why are they needed

First, let's briefly recall how it was before. The production of all building materials was carried out according to one state standard. For example, there were standards for bricks, blocks, reinforced concrete slabs, and so on. There were also standards for the thickness of the plaster layer. Thanks to this, carpentry workshops had a specific wall thickness in the opening where the door or window would be installed. As a result, having installed the door frame and the casing, no adjustment was necessary.

As for our time, the situation has completely changed. The production process of a number of building materials is carried out not according to the established standard, but based on the technical capabilities of a particular enterprise. What did it lead to? Now each enterprise bricks, blocks, etc. can have different thicknesses. As a consequence, the thickness of the wall in the door opening can be different in several cases. To hide a section of the wall after installing the door frame, they came up with door extensions.

What is dobor

Mostly door dobory are made of MDF. But there is the possibility of their production from natural wood. But in this case, the price for them will be higher. Dobor means a regular board that fits neatly with the doors. Modern manufacturers of door frames immediately provide a special groove into which it will be possible to install extensions. As a result, this greatly simplifies the finishing work and allows you to beautifully decorate the doorway.

Varieties

Door extensions can be completely different:

1. Ordinary.
2. Telescopic.
3. Combined.

Under the usual means a rail or board, which has a coating of the same tone with the door frame and the door leaf itself. Its width can reach up to 20 cm. If you have carpentry equipment, then you can make such a bar yourself.

By telescopic is meant a design that resembles a lining in appearance. On the one hand, there is a special groove. On the opposite side is a spike. Due to this, it becomes possible to decorate a doorway of any width. The telescopic dobor in width ranges from 9 to 15 cm.

Well, the combined element, in addition to its main purpose, also serves as a casing. The use of both an extension and a platband on the front door is relevant if there is a need to increase the thickness of the opening. However, if the partition is significantly wide, then the combined plank will not help. That is, it is a corner that is directly tied to the door frame.

Installation methods

Do-it-yourself installation of interior door extensions on the video is presented in different ways. So, there are several methods:

• Through the door frame.
• Mounting on a fabricated frame.
• Fastening directly on the wall of the opening.

The easiest way is to install in a groove on the door frame. In this case, liquid nails are used. This fastening material will be quite enough, since the bar on the doors does not carry any mechanical loads. Another option is to use self-tapping screws.

So, regardless of the chosen method of installing extensions on interior doors, the sequence of all actions will be almost the same and it consists of the following steps:

1. The dimensions of the extensions for interior doors are determined.
2. Cut to exact size.
3. Installation of extensions on slopes.
4. Measuring and cutting off the top element.
5. Installing the top bar.

Required Tool

Do-it-yourself installation of the addition of interior doors is carried out using a specific carpentry tool kit. Of course, based on the circumstances, the tool kit may differ slightly, but you can’t do without the following equipment:

• Drill.
• Self-tapping screws.
• Screwdriver.
• Mounting foam.
• Hacksaw.
• Roulette.
• Pencil.
• Jigsaw.
• Square.
• Hammer, etc.

Now we suggest that you consider several technologies for installing an interior door extension with your own hands using different technologies. Step-by-step instructions will help you cope with all the work yourself.

Groove installation

In this case, it is understood that the door frame initially has special mounting grooves for installing the bar. This technology is the simplest of all existing ones. So, the whole process of installation work boils down to the following steps:

1. First you need to measure the distance from the installed door frame to the edge of the slope with a tape measure. With all this, it is necessary to make measurements along the length of the slope at several points. This will help you determine how strong the deviations are. It is very convenient to use a square for measurements.
2. In addition to the width of the slope, you should also consider the depth of the groove into which the plank will be installed. By adding these two sums, you can determine the width of the required element.
3. After this, transfer the measurements to the bar and use a jigsaw to make a cut along the workpiece.
4. Next, the bar is inserted into the groove on the door frame.
5. Perform a similar operation on each side of the slope.
6. In the groove, the extensions must be planted on liquid nails or silicone sealant. It is better to use a colorless silicone sealant.
7. Having laid the vertical extension, the letter “P” is formed in the opening. In this case, the upper one is laid on top of the vertical slats. In relation to the door frame, an angle of 90 degrees must be observed.
8. For temporary fixation, you can use adhesive tape. She grabs the bar to the box.
9. All voids between the slope and the door extension should be filled with mounting foam.

   Important! But here is an important nuance. Use mounting foam on a special gun. This foam doesn't stick out much. Plus, its consumption is much less. If you use ordinary foam with a plastic tube, then there is a high probability that the finish will be torn out of the mounting groove.

10. When the foam is completely dry, all residues are carefully cut off with a knife.

Grooveless installation

And how to fix the extensions on the interior door, if there is no such groove? Consider the features of installing extensions on interior doors in this case. We note right away that the process of installing extensions is somewhat more complicated, since it is difficult to derive the ideal line or contour of the opening. But despite this, it is quite possible to achieve the desired result.

So, the workflow will look like this:

1. It is necessary to make measurements from the box to the edge of the slope with a corner. Remember, measurements are taken in several places at once.
2. Cut planks to the correct size.
3. Next, a frame is made of wooden bars or an aluminum plasterboard profile. The frame is set strictly according to the level.
4. On the assembled frame, the strips are fixed with mounting glue or self-tapping screws.

As a result, you will be able to achieve a flat surface.

Installation on metal doors

As a rule, the iron box is not very wide, therefore, when installing iron doors, one cannot do without extensions. In such boxes there are no grooves. Ideally, drywall can be used as extensions. First you need to make a frame. As a basis, you can use wooden blocks. On top of them, drywall is fixed. The space between the drywall and the slope is filled with mounting foam.

Further, with the help of liquid nails, the elements are glued to the drywall. Previously, its surface is primed for high-quality adhesion. Thus, door extensions will have a reliable foundation. And considering that metal doors are mainly mounted at the entrance to the apartment, this method of mounting the slats will completely eliminate heat losses on the slopes. The final touch will be the installation of the platband.

If there are deviations in the opening

If the interior opening has deviations along vertical or horizontal lines, then a special technique for installing the addition of interior doors with your own hands is necessary. So, what if the slope widens towards the outer edge? It is important to understand here that MDF, fiberboard, solid wood and other material for extensions cannot particularly bend, as they will crack. In this case, you can get out of the situation - by installing a frame made of bars, plywood or drywall. That is, your task will be to achieve the same slope size.

The problem may also lie in the non-compliance with the technology of mounting the door frame, for example, there are vertical or horizontal distortions. In this case, it will not work to install exactly the finish. The easiest way is to dismantle the box and reinstall it again.

Installation of telescopic extensions

The installation of telescopic extensions for interior doors is strikingly different from the installation of conventional ones. The difference comes down to the way the planks are connected to each other. So, from the telescopic extension, you will not be able to immediately assemble the slope of the required width. The assembly process is carried out in several passes. Otherwise, surface deformation may occur at the moment when the mounting foam polymerizes. The process is reduced to the following sequence:

• First, a rail is attached along the perimeter of the slope. It will be the process of building up.
• So, a telescopic extension for an interior door is being installed.
• The gap between it and the slope is foamed.
• Further, with the help of the tongue/groove connection, the extension of the telescopic extension is built up.
• Each subsequent element foams separately.

Thus, by building up, a telescopic extension for interior doors is installed.

Installation at the same time as the door frame

There is another original solution - the installation of extensions simultaneously with the installation of the door frame. In this case, the work looks like this:

1. Place the door frame on a flat horizontal surface.
2. The aspect ratio is checked in terms of angles and length.
3. If necessary, it is worth making a quarter addition using a milling cutter. Remember, the depth of the quarter must match the size of the finish.
4. On the outside of the box, small pieces of plywood or drywall are installed around its entire perimeter. Their width should be identical to the width of the future extension. Fasten these segments temporarily to small carnations.
5. Next, adjust the dobors exactly to size. At the same time, you measure the width of the wall in the opening, the door frame. Also determine the level of the wall. If there are deviations, then this factor must be taken into account.
6. After that, you should apply liquid nails or any other sealant to the edge of the quarter.
7. Next, the extensions are mounted and the glue is expected to dry completely.
8. After that, the installed temporary strips are carefully dismantled.
9. Now you can put the door frame in its place.

At the end, the opening between the box, the extensions and the slope wall is blown with foam.

Conclusion

So, here we have considered with you all the features of installing the addition of interior doors with our own hands. As you can see, there are several technologies at once. If you will do this work with your own hands, then we advise you to choose the technology that is most accessible and understandable to you. Additionally, do-it-yourself installation of interior door extensions in the video at the end of this article. In it you can learn about other nuances in this matter. Advice is provided by experts in the field. We hope that this article was useful for you and you were able to get a general idea about the varieties of door extension technologies. Share your observations and experiences on how you coped with the installation of trim on interior or exterior doors.

Interior doors are installed at one of the last stages of repair. In addition to installation, the correct choice of dimensions and configuration of the door block is of great importance here. We offer an article on how to quickly, correctly and technologically install doors, platbands and slopes with your own hands.

Dimensions and types of door frames

Before we arm ourselves with a chisel and a screwdriver, we will study the basic norms and installation rules. The door unit must be installed freely in the opening while maintaining gaps sufficient to form a foam joint.

The thickness of the door block assembly is determined by the width of the stacks. For standard partitions made of plasterboard and half-brick walls, the door is installed in a block with a thickness of 75 or 73 mm. In the openings of the main walls, standing 100 mm wide are used. Please note that in the first case, the installation of doors is carried out without slopes.

The standard width of door panels with a height of 200 cm or more can be from 600 to 1000 mm, the dimensions vary in 100 mm increments. For doors with a height of 190 cm, the minimum leaf width is 550 mm, the maximum width is 900 mm. We will start from the dimensions of the canvas to calculate the required dimensions of the opening.

The thickness of the racks of the MDF box can vary from 22 to 33 mm. Factory-made laminated veneer lumber can be up to 35 mm thick, and those made in "garage" workshops - up to 50 mm. Ultimately, the actual size of the narrowest part - the feigned one - is important. To calculate the horizontal dimension of the opening, we add to the width of the door leaf two values ​​of the thickness of the rack in the narrow vestibule. The height of the opening depends on whether the door is installed with a threshold or the floor covering will be laid in a continuous contour. In the first case, we add two values ​​of the thickness of the rail in the front part to the height of the web, in the second - one value plus an additional 15 mm.

But that's not all. For free movement and closing of the door, a gap must be maintained between the leaf and the frame. For doors made of MDF or prefabricated canvases, the gap is 3 mm on each side of the porch. For solid wood doors, the gap is 4-7 mm, depending on the quality of the wood and the assembly of the product. As for the technological gaps between the door block and the opening, it is recommended to adhere to a value of 15-20 mm.

Opening preparation

It is not enough just to make sure that the width of the opening corresponds to the required one at any arbitrary point. The profile of the door frame must fit exactly into the opening in a strictly vertical position, so at least one side should be aligned vertically.

Expanding the opening is not a problem; this is done using a cutting wheel and an angle grinder or a perforator. But sometimes the opening has to be reduced. To do this, on one or both sides, you need to fix a bar of the appropriate thickness. Sometimes, to reduce the opening, a wood lining is installed in it from all three sides.

The fastening of the door block to the walls is carried out due to the mounting foam, which means that the surface of the edges of the opening must have high adhesion. In gypsum plasterboard partitions, openings are formed by the central shelves of rack profiles. It is enough to clean their surfaces of traces of building materials and lightly sand them with sandpaper. Openings in stone walls must be cleaned of dust and dirt, then coated once with a primer.

Assembly and installation of the door frame

The door block frame is assembled from two side posts, an upper crossbar and, optionally, a lower jumper that acts as a sill. Fitting and fitting of parts should be carried out on a flat floor, spreading the front parts with the back part towards you.

First, undercuts are made on both side posts: the protruding bar is cut with a hacksaw with an indent from the edge equal to the full thickness of the stand. This is done for the correct adjoining of the profile bars in the inner corners of the loot. When the undercuts are made, a jumper is inserted between them. Its length should be equal to the width of the door leaf, plus the gaps between the door and the frame on both sides.

The height of the door frame is the length of the door leaf with gaps on the top and bottom or only on the top side for mounting with or without a threshold, respectively. This distance should be set aside when the box is assembled on the floor without fastening. According to the marked length, the racks are simply cut off in the miter box at a right angle.

If a threshold is installed in the lower part, it is cut out longer than the upper crossbar by at least two thicknesses of the stock. If the upper jumper is installed at a distance between the uprights, then the threshold is simply applied to the box from below. Naturally, you must not forget to make undercuts of the central protruding bar. If, as a result, the threshold protrudes slightly beyond the dimensions of the door frame, it is not necessary to cut off the excess.

To fasten the parts of the box together, you can use non-hardened anodized self-tapping screws or furniture confirmations. The connection is made in the corners of the box: first, the parts to be fastened must be set at 90 °, and then one pilot hole with a diameter equal to the core of the self-tapping screw or confirmation, excluding threads, is drilled, shifting it from the center by 15-20 mm. When the first fastener is screwed in, the right angle is checked again, after which the second fastener is screwed in, also off-center, but in the opposite direction. If the box is installed without a threshold, its bottom is temporarily fastened with a wooden plank. The bar should be screwed to those places that will subsequently hide under the platbands or extensions.

Installing the box in the opening is a matter of 10-15 minutes. First, the door block is fixed using spacers - wedges cut from foam. You need two wedges for each vertical part of the box and one for the top rail. A polyethylene foam tape is rolled out under the threshold of the box. Due to the soft fixation on the foam wedges, the box can be freely adjusted. On the side into which the door will open, the frame should be positioned flush with the plane of the wall finish. This is done using a long rule attached to the wall with a slight overhang into the opening. Particular attention should be paid to the corners of the box, applying the rule obliquely along two adjacent sections of the wall.

When the door is aligned, it is temporarily attached to the ends of the opening. If the servicemen have an overhead bar with a hidden groove, fastening is done through this groove - with an ordinary self-tapping screw through and through. When installing doors in GKL partitions, this is the only option for invisible fastening. If the door block will have slopes, mounting or U-shaped plates for the plasterboard profile are first screwed to the back side of the stand, through which the box is fixed in the opening.

The value of such an attachment is purely nominal, it is necessary so that the block does not lead from the expansion of the foam. When the door is fixed, all gaps between the block and the opening are filled with polyurethane foam to half or 2/3 of the joint volume. It is important that the foam circuit is continuous. Further work with the door can be continued after 1.5-2 hours.

Hinges and other fittings

Practice shows that it is better to hang the door before the frame is fixed in the opening. Firstly, the door serves as a spacer, preventing the foam from squeezing out the flexible pillars. It is only necessary to lay spacers from 3 mm chipboard between the door and the frame for the period of foam hardening. Secondly, the loot on the floor is simply easier to manipulate when inserting loops.

First, the hinges are cut into the door frame itself, retreating 20-25 cm from the upper and lower corners. The hinge must be positioned so that the cylinder rests almost flush against the corner edge. Parts of loops with pins are attached to the loot, which should be turned towards the upper crossbar. The hinges are first fastened as is, without tie-in, each is screwed with two screws. Next, the plates are outlined along the contour with a sectional knife, this is necessary to cut the veneer, so it is guaranteed not to be undermined in the process of sampling the material.

Next, the loops must be removed and walked along the formed incision with a chisel, turning the blade downward into the sample. Hemming should be done 1-1.5 mm deeper than the thickness of the hinge plate. Thereafter, sampling can be done in two ways. The first and optimal one is to remove the thickness of the plate with a manual milling cutter, 1-2 mm short of the cutter to the hemming line, and then form the edges of the sample with a chisel. The second way is to apply an arbitrary number of notches to the surface with a chisel and remove the material with it, periodically trying on the loop until the plate is flush with the rest of the surface.

To insert the hinges on the door, it is necessary to temporarily insert the canvas into the bow, checking the uniformity of the gaps on all sides. Then, with a sharp knife, two risks are placed on the corner edge of the canvas exactly in those places where the edges of the hinge plates adjoin the door. Now the door can be removed, put on edge, screwed on the hinges, cut around them with a knife, and then - by analogy with the insertion of the hinges on the loot. If one-sided tie-ins are used, the risks must be placed with a pencil along the edges of the cylinder, and then simply screw the back of the loop without selecting a groove.

Locks, latches and sealing brushes are easier to install on the door when hung. First, at the end of the door with a pen drill, a groove is selected for the internal mechanism of the lock or latch. The final shape of the groove must be given with a chisel. Next, the body is installed in the groove, the lock is temporarily fastened with screws, after which the outer bar is circled with a knife along the contour. After selecting the material, the body of the lock or latch is finally installed, you must first drill holes for the square pin.

Installation of slopes and platbands

The final phase of the door installation is coming - the installation of a decorative frame. You should start with the installation of extensions for the formation of slopes. The best way to fix them is with liquid nails, the type of which is chosen according to the material of the walls. The top plank is installed first: it must be cut exactly according to the shape of the upper edge of the opening, taking into account the slope dawn angles. To fix the top extension, you need to apply a flagellum of glue with a thickness of about 5-7 mm on it in a zigzag pattern and press it firmly, propping it up with a long rail.

Next comes the installation of the side extensions. In order to accurately observe the upper dawn of the slope, you need to attach a square to the door frame and mark the height difference that forms the upper extension. The width of the extension is cut so that its edged edge protrudes about 1 mm above the plane of the wall. It is important to remember that approximately 2/3 of the depth of the groove into which the edged edge of the board is inserted must be added to the width of the extension.

Platbands are also fastened with polymer glue. First, all the details must be cut to the size of the opening and the pattern of joining the corners. There are two options here: the planks are either connected by an oblique cut at 45 °, or vertical trims with a straight end are first attached, and then a horizontal element is inserted between them, the edges of which are made with an undercut of oblique slopes. For reliable pressing at the time of fixing the glue, it is recommended to cash out both sides at the same time, pulling them together with clamps.