Do-it-yourself step-by-step instructions for installing siding with illustrations. Do-it-yourself siding installation

Siding is a modern, promising, cost-effective direction in building decoration various types. The main mission of facing is protect the walls from the outside from the damaging effects natural factors, as well as to give them a special flavor and presentability.

Sheathing the facades of buildings with siding does not require large labor costs from the performers. The event can be performed with the help of the simplest building tools and in relatively short time.

Varieties of material

Siding materials are: vinyl, metal, PVC, wood and cement.

If desired, the masters can successfully create an imitation other popular materials for home decoration. Depending on the main material, experts distinguish several varieties of siding.

Vinyl

In fact, these are PVC panels that can successfully imitate wood, stone or brick sheathing.

Advantages:

affordable price;
light weight structures;
vinyl cladding will last more than 50 years;
a huge variety of textures and colors;
absence of toxic substances;
resistance to deformation and cataclysms;
operating temperature: -50–+50 °C.

In order to avoid possible deformation of the material, the coefficient of expansion must be taken into account when installing the nodes.

Wood

If wood siding is to be used for cladding country houses, then its additional treated with special antiseptics under high pressure conditions.

Advantages:

high level of thermal insulation;
presentability;
environmental friendliness.

Sheathing a building with wood siding is an expensive undertaking. Wherein this material requires special attention and special care.

Metal

Such cladding is made of steel, aluminum or zinc. For finishing country houses with metal siding it is preferable to use aluminum, which can be painted under a tree.

Advantages:

strength;
durability;
lack of microflora;
resistance to sudden temperature changes.

Metal siding is subject to deformation and corrosion processes.

cement

The main production material is high-quality cement, to which cellulose is added. This type of lining able to qualitatively replace the decorative stone.

Advantages:

fire resistance;
reliability and durability;
resistance to moisture and ultraviolet;
ease of restoration;
no rotting and mold formation processes.

The disadvantage of cement siding is considered big weight source material, which makes it difficult to installation work.

Read also about facade panels for exterior finish at home.

Which siding to choose?

If as building material a timber or a solid log was used, then it is best to use vinyl siding.

PVC panels reliably protect the building from adverse weather conditions.

They are quite light, so do not create additional load to the foundation. Plastic panels easy to install and wash. This cladding will significantly extend the service life. wooden house and give it a unique look. If you sheathe the old wooden house this will give it a fresh look.

to sheathe frame house Wood siding is ideal. This type of cladding looks really expensive and spectacular. sheathing installed very quickly. The panels can be installed both vertically and horizontally.

Excellent breathability and no toxic fumes- main advantages wood siding. For cladding frame house experts recommend purchasing beech, spruce, pine or larch wood panels.

As for brick building, then choosing finishing material the purpose of the building must be taken into account. If this is an industrial building, then it is best to finish with metal siding. Residential brick house Better off with vinyl siding. He allows you to successfully simulate other expensive materials.

For finishing houses made of foam blocks and aerated concrete, you can successfully use vinyl, metal, as well as basement siding. Ease of installation as well excellent performance characteristics installed panels will help to ennoble the facade of the house, it will look beautiful and stylish.

A high-quality frame for siding, where insulation is necessarily present, can significantly reduce heat loss and improve the waterproofing of the building.

Features of quality siding:

Same panel thickness. Such facing will not be deformed and will serve the owner of the building as long as possible.
The presence of a uniform layer of paint. If the panel is painted unevenly, then most likely, low-grade raw materials were used in the production process. Such panels do not withstand mechanical loads, quickly lose their color and deform with temperature fluctuations.
Surface structure. There are no chips, stains or cracks on high-quality panels. They shouldn't loosen up.
Plastic. All parts of the skin are required to demonstrate flexibility and strength.
Availability of certificates. When purchasing material for facing a house, feel free to ask for a quality certificate. The document must contain, certified by the seal, the conclusions of experts that confirm the fire resistance and hygiene of the product.

How to calculate the required amount?

A competent calculation of the amount of material required in order to sheathe a house or a summer house will allow you to predict the total cost of the event and the deadline for completing the work.

To organize the calculation process needs to be prepared in advance: tape measure, calculator, sheet of paper and pencil.

at first should draw up a blueprint at home. This will allow you to calculate as accurately as possible. required amount materials and additional elements. So let's get started.

Divide the facade into separate segments, determine the real area of each wall, and then the facade as a whole.
From the resulting amount, subtract the area of door and window openings.
The actual metric characteristics of the ridge and roof will indicate the dimensions of the overhangs. They should be hemmed with spotlights.
For proper installation of siding panels, it is necessary to determine the true number of platbands, window trims and other additional elements.

After completing all the calculations, you can independently determine the quantity of materials and approximate cost.

Since during the process of cutting and installing panels, a certain amount of material will become unusable, when calculating the total area of \u200b\u200bsheathing, to its total value It is recommended to add another 15%. In this way. You will definitely not experience a shortage of material when facing a building.

In order to properly calculate right amount siding for the house, the surface area that needs to be covered with cladding, must be divided into the area of one panel. To the value obtained should be added, the required stock.

Additional elements:

In order to determine the number of starting strips, the length of the gap sections should be added to the length of the perimeter of the building, and the resulting amount should be divided by the size of the profile.
The number of external and internal corners depends on the configuration of the building.
The number of window profiles is determined by the length of the perimeter of recessed window openings.
The number of finishing strips must correspond to the number of starting profiles.
The number of J-slats is determined by the length of the frontal joints.
The number of architraves depends on the parameters of the facade segments that need cladding.

How much does 1 m2 cost?

The total cost of house siding determined by several factors, namely:

surface area to be covered;
the cost of the source material;
the need to install fastening structures;
the complexity of the work;
installation of thermal insulation.

Average 1 square meter siding will cost the owner of an architectural structure about 200 rubles. Wherein the cost of all other works is considered separately.

Do you know how to sheathe a wooden house outside? Read this article about choosing the best material.

Is it possible to clad a building in winter?

Naturally, it is best to sheathe a house with siding during the warm periods of the year. But, if this event has to be held in winter, then must be remembered several important points.

Because when exposed low temperatures vinyl panels may crack, then this type of sheathing is not recommended to be mounted in winter.

Concerning metal siding, then its panels should be installed with some clearance, because when warmed, the material will expand. Since there is a gap between the panels and the insulation, the owners have no reason to worry about the accumulation of condensate.

How to sheathe a house with siding yourself?

Since the technology for installing siding sheathing is quite simple, then this species work can be done independently.

When installing cement panels, it is necessary to pre-strengthen the foundation, this is due to their large weight.

Preparatory work

Walls and surfaces around the perimeter of the house must get rid of mold, dirt, fungus, dust and moss. Places where such phenomena have been identified should be treated with special antiseptics.

The next step should carefully inspect the walls of the building. If cracks or other damage to the surfaces are detected, they must be rubbed with a building emulsion.

The territory of the site must be removed, and then a small canopy should be erected on it to protect power sources and power tools from possible precipitation.

For work you will need:

cross saw;
pliers;
metal ruler;
roulette;
screwdriver;
a hammer;
level;
knife-cutter;
pliers;
awl;
protective glasses;
hacksaw for metal.

Lathing installation

To design siding held securely by the frame its creation must be approached as consciously as possible. If the project involves additional wall insulation, then waterproofing should be placed under the insulation ball, and if not, under the crate.

First you need to determine the material from which the crate will be made. If it is planned to install wooden or vinyl panels, then both a metal profile and a beam can serve as a frame.

Other types of siding require the installation of a metal crate. If timber was chosen as the frame material, then it must be thoroughly dried and treated with an antiseptic. After these procedures, you can begin to collect the crate.

First you need to mark the areas for installing fasteners. The first profiles should be installed in the corners. They are should be perfectly aligned. Use the building level to control.

Next, you can mount horizontal beams below and above the surface that you are sheathing. Once everything is ready, you can safely mount the remaining vertical elements over the entire surface plane.

The distance between the profiles should be about 30–50 cm. The crate is recommended to be fixed directly to the walls of the building with dowels, the holes for which are made with a perforator.

Wall insulation

In order to qualitatively insulate the walls of the building, it is recommended to lay a heater between the profiles of the lathing (foam plastic, basalt or mineral wool). The choice of insulation depends on climatic conditions in the area where the house is located.

If the winter temperature does not fall below -15 °C, then experts recommend using foam. More severe climatic conditions require the use of mineral wool as a heater.

Insulation should cover with waterproofing film. It is attached directly to the crate. For this use construction stapler. A counter-lattice must be installed on top of the waterproofing layer. This will create a ventilation space between the insulation and the panels.

Finishing

Before installing panels, you must to fix additional elements structures (external and internal components, finishing and starting film, J, H-panels, water pipe segments, window film).

First panel fixed on the starting film, after which, moving from the bottom up, the rest of the siding segments are mounted. The last panel must be fixed on the finishing film.

Do not overtighten the screws. Between the surface plane and the head of the fastening element, leave a gap of 1–2 mm. This will allow the material to expand without harming the siding structure.

So, cladding a building with siding is an ideal, publicly available way to ensure the presentability and durability of a building.

What mistakes can be made when installing siding? See in the video:

Sheathing a house with siding is possible even for a beginner. It is enough to know the procedure and some of the nuances of installation. If as facing material you decide to choose vinyl siding, do-it-yourself installation is more than simple.

PVC siding is flexible and pliable, which reduces the likelihood of panel damage and injury. Walkthrough will allow to sheathe the facade of the house with siding even without construction experience.

Based on the material below, you will learn how to fix the siding to the wall correctly.

For greater clarity, each stage is accompanied by photos, diagrams, drawings and videos.

Please note that these instructions are for installing vinyl siding, which is different from metal siding.

Knife. Who does not know how to cut vinyl siding: vinyl is a soft material, it can be easily cut with a sharp knife. To do this, you need to designate a groove on the panel. Bend and unbend the strip several times. As a result, it will break according to the intended cut.

Electric jigsaw. Used instead of a knife. It gives a more beautiful cut, and also allows you to speed up the process of preparing panels to size.

Drill or perforator. With their help, it is convenient to increase the holes for fastening hardware or punch new ones.

Screwdriver. For screwing fasteners.
Building level. The laser is very easy to use.
Roulette.

Good to know. If you are going to use a grinder to cut siding panels, this is acceptable. However, keep in mind that at high speeds, the sheet cut will begin to heat up and melt. This will cause it to deform. Therefore, use the grinder at low power.

When starting to clad a house with vinyl siding, always keep in mind that this material has a high coefficient of linear expansion. This means that a gap of 5-7 mm must be observed between the starting strips, as well as between rows and strips. And if the installation is carried out at a temperature below -10 ° C (which is generally unacceptable from the point of view of common sense, but it is quite customary for domestic practice), then the gaps should be at least 10 mm.

There must be a gap between working surface material and fasteners. Below we will talk about this in more detail.

Vinyl siding should be left to dry for at least a couple of hours. outdoor temperature before the start of installation work.

Under no circumstances should siding be screwed through with a self-tapping screw. This approach to installation can lead to cracking of the sheet of material. But, if such a need arose, to fix the sheet not where the nail holes were punched, you must first drill a hole for the hardware, and only then fix the sheet or additional element.

Despite the fact that fastening siding with self-tapping screws is the most common in domestic practice, you can still use fasteners such as nails and staples.

Installation of vinyl siding - instructions

In general, the installation of vinyl siding can be divided into several stages:

fixing the starting bar;
installation of vertical bars (corners and H-connector);
installation of siding panels;
window framing and doorways siding;
installation of vinyl siding around the arch;
arrangement of protruding elements;
fastening of finishing strips;
soffit installation;
pediment lining.

Good to know: fastening siding to a metal crate or to a wooden one, or even to the base of the wall surface, always starts from the bottom. This allows each subsequent panel to be placed above the previous one. Thus, additional protection of the surface or insulation from moisture is achieved.

1. Installation of the starting bar (starting strip)

Installation of siding panels always takes place using the starting bar. It is attached around the perimeter of the building (or that part of it that is planned to be sheathed).

The initial bar is closed by a number of panels, so there are no special requirements for it. It can be connected from scraps or a bar of a different color can be used.

The starting bar sets the tone for the whole work. Better to spend more time leveling it than trying to fix even minimum slope during the installation work.

Before you begin to fasten it, you need to designate the place of the future fastening.

To do this, drive in a nail (screw in a screw) at the lowest level of the wall.

The distance from the nail to the ground should be equal to the width of the starting bar.

Next, stretch the thread between the nails. Check that the thread tension is correct with building level. Next, using chalk, draw a line along the thread between the nails. It will indicate the line of attachment of the starting strip.

The more often you use the level, the more correctly and evenly the installation of the siding will be performed.

However, at least every third row of ordinary strips of siding should be checked for the possibility of deviation from the level.

After that fix the bar.

How to attach vinyl siding to a wall

When installing vinyl elements, fasteners must be properly carried out. Namely, it is important to adhere to the following conditions:

- the distance between two adjacent self-tapping screws should be about 250-300 mm.

It is necessary to twist the hardware or hammer in a nail strictly perpendicular to the plane.

- fasten the screws only in the middle of the nail hole, which has an oval appearance, it is this trick that allows the panel to slide when expanding. The correct way is shown in the figure.

- the self-tapping screw is not fully tightened. A gap of 1 mm must be observed between the surface of the material and the head of the self-tapping screw.

Achieved desired clearance two ways.

First, you can attach a coin.

Secondly, you can twist it all the way, and then loosen it one turn. There should always be a gap of 5-7 mm between two starting bars located in the neighborhood.

The gap compensates for the linear expansion of the material.

Installation of the strip at the corners is not carried out completely. Since a special corner bar is used to arrange the corner.

Using staples as fasteners, you must also maintain a gap of 1 mm.

Good to know. Some builders recommend immediately setting the starting bar on window and door blocks. However, this should not be done, because the need for it does not always arise. The dimensions of the window are not so ideal that ordinary siding strips during installation turn out to be just at the level of the strip.

2. Fastening of vertical strips - corners and H-connector

2.1 Fastening the planks

The corners are set before the installation of the main strips. It is in them that ordinary panels are wound up.

Mounting a vinyl corner also has its own characteristics:

First, the angle is set to 5-7 mm without touching the ground. When heated, the angle will expand vertically and the gap left will not allow it to deform.

Secondly, it is important to properly fix the screws. As you can see in the figure, the corner is attached starting from the top nail hole. Moreover, the screw is twisted into its upper part. On this self-tapping screw (nail) the whole corner seems to be hanging in the air.

Thus, the material can only expand downwards and to the sides.

The rest and the last self-tapping screw are twisted in the same way as the starting strip - clearly in the middle of the nail hole.

Thirdly, the lower edges of the corner are cut to the width of the starting bar. This avoids deformation of the material when heated.

It will look as shown in the picture.

Separate cases in the technology of installing vinyl siding

The length of the corner bar is up to 4 meters. But you may need to lengthen the corner.

Mount the lower corner bar, then cut off the fasteners on the sides from the top and “put” on the bottom, leaving a gap of 5 mm for compression under the influence of temperature.

The overlap is 20-25 mm.

The figure shows how to lengthen the bar

Good to know:

The joints at the corners and the H-connector must be at the same level. This will make the appearance of the house more harmonious.
The upper bar of the corner is mounted on the lower one, and not vice versa. This will protect the corner from water leakage.

Since the corners of vinyl siding are flexible, they can be used to finish blunt and sharp corners building.

For obtuse angle- the profile must be pressed down, for an acute one - narrowed.

For the inner corner, the procedure will be similar.

Given the cost of the corners, you can save on them if you mount two J-bars in their place. The installation process is shown in the figure.

2.4. H-profile installation

This type of work also does not take much time and effort. It is important to correctly calculate the location of the bar. Fastening is carried out similarly to fastening corners.

the lower bar is mounted first, and then the upper one;
if necessary, lengthening is cut into pieces of 5-7 mm with perforation (to compensate for expansion);
overlap profiles.

Keep in mind, the starter strips must be adjacent to the H-connector, and not vice versa.

Good to know. You can do without installing an H-shaped profile in this case, the siding strips will overlap.

The photo shows how the wall should look before starting the installation of ordinary siding panels.

3. Installation of ordinary siding panels

We’ll make a reservation right away that ordinary panels can be fixed in a circle, or you can trim one wall. From the point of view of siding installation technology, this does not matter.

Installation takes place in several steps:

3.1. The first strip of siding is inserted into the vertical grooves of the angled or H-shaped profile and fixed with a self-tapping screw exactly in the center of the nail holes.

At the same time, hardware is attached from the center of the panel to the edges, towards the vertical slats.

Good to know.
To make it easier to insert the strip, you need to slightly bend it outward.

As already mentioned, the siding panel starts in the outer or inner corners. In case you are using a budget option installation, arrange inner panel can be done in the manner shown in the figure.

Don't forget to leave room for expansion.

3.2. The siding panel must be lowered to the initial bar and snapped into place. To do this, you need the strip lock to catch on the starting bar. Never "pull out" the panel. Since in this case the radius of the panel will stretch and the locks will be deformed. How to install the siding panel correctly - see the picture.

Good to know.
If, after the lock of the next strip snaps onto the lock of the previous one, the panel can be moved horizontally, then its installation was carried out according to the rules.

3.3. After the panel is installed, it can be fixed with hardware.

3.4. All remaining rows, with the exception of the last one, are performed in the same sequence.

If you need to connect the panels together, and you did not provide an H-profile or you do not like how it looks, you can do it as follows.

First, remove the interlock from the panel.
Secondly, lay two sheets on top of each other.
Thirdly, put the cut off part of the sheet under the lock.

The photo shows what it looks like in practice.

Note:

Some manufacturers produce panels without locking on the end of the siding sheet.
Panels at the joints are not sealed.
The mounting line can be flat, or it can be offset.

4. Installation of a window siding strip near window and door openings

There are two possible ways of arranging openings relative to the wall surface.

in one plane. In this case, the openings are simply sheathed around the perimeter with J-profiles and the siding panel is already inserted into them.

with slope arrangement. With this arrangement, the panels are installed in the manner indicated in the figure.

In practice, it looks like it is shown in the photo.

Getting the panel into such a design is also not difficult. Because the vinyl is quite flexible, the panel is simply bent slightly and installed into the J-profile.

The main thing here is to properly cut the strip of siding.

Docking ears are holes in the strip of material designed for fastening hardware. They are made with a punch.

5. Installation of vinyl siding around the arch

If the openings in your house end in an arch, this is not a problem for installing plastic siding.

Finishing an arch with vinyl siding differs from finishing a regular opening only in the way the J-bar is installed.

Flexible J-bar greatly simplifies finishing arched openings. To do this, notches are made on the profile and the smaller the radius, the more often notches should be made.

The process is clearly shown in the photo.

Installation of siding around protruding objects occurs by cutting the strip and fastening it with an overlap.

7. Installation of finishing strips and the last row of siding panels

It is done like this - first the finishing bar is fixed.

Then the distance from the last ordinary strip is measured from it. This is the value that the last siding panel should correspond to.

The strip is bent horizontally in an arc and wound into the lock and the finish bar.

8. Installation of siding soffit

8.1. With wind bar

If a frontal board It has small size it can be closed with a wind bar. To do this, a finishing bar is mounted along the upper edge of the frontal board, and the wind bar is attached so that its upper part is fixed by the finishing profile.

Then a J-profile is attached to the wall and a soffit is installed between it and the wind bar.

In this case, the soffit can be installed in one of the two ways shown in the diagram.

In this way, installation is carried out if the frontal board is wider than the wind bar.

Wherein outer corner mounted on the edge of the frontal board, and the J-profile on both sides of it at the required distance. A soffit of the desired size is cut out and wound up between one of the parts of the corner and the J-bar.

Similarly, the finishing on the second side.

It is not recommended to mount a dark-colored soffit in this way, since it is highly prone to fading on the frontal bar.

9. Mounting the gable with siding

Installing a gable is no different from installing ordinary siding strips. Produced as follows:

9.1. installation of the starting line. Occurs in full accordance with the rules described above.

Good to know:
You can use all the remnants of the J-profile that you have accumulated during your work to finish the pediment. Still under roofing material it is not visible.

This work is done as shown in the photo.

To do this, the J-strips must be laid on top of each other and cut diagonally on the front. Let's not forget the gap.

9.5. Plank preparation.

In order to cut off the siding strip correctly, you need to measure the angle of inclination of the roof slope.

This can be done using a simple trick: put a piece of a strip of material to the surface of the pediment, and the whole panel is level with the J-profile.

Then you need to draw a sharpened pencil over the overlap of the sheets. The result will be an accurate angle of inclination. Next, you should remove a short piece and cut off the siding along the line.

The process is more clearly shown in the drawing above.

Cut the corner of the last siding panel and bring it into the J-profile.

This is an exceptional case in the installation of vinyl siding, in which the hardware or nail hits the panel through and through.

Installation of vinyl siding - video instruction

Conclusion

In this article, we tried to reveal all the features of installing vinyl siding. We hope now you know how to mount facade siding with your own hands, as well as components for it.

Siding - modern material, which is used for sheathing wooden and brick walls. During installation work, you can insulate the walls of the house, which will not only save a lot, but also increase the level of comfort in general. Assembling siding is a simple process that even a beginner can do.

But first you need to familiarize yourself with the basic rules of installation and watch the video from the masters. The apparent simplicity of the process also hides some pitfalls - the installation technology takes into account the effect of expansion-compression of the material with temperature changes.

An important element for installing siding is the crate, which is necessary for the installation of vinyl or metal panels. For its arrangement, you also need to follow some rules, which we will talk about. Therefore, the question, Profile for siding - the basis of installation work - is a key element of this article.

Walkthrough

Siding assembly instructions are a key document that a good manufacturing company must supply with its products. This documentation contains the necessary recommendations and technological methods for the installation of materials.

Note! You must strictly follow the instructions in the instructions, otherwise you may void the warranty for the products.

General rules

You can not hammer nails to the end. Always leave a gap of 1 to 1.5 mm between their caps and facing material.

Note! After fixing, the siding panels should move freely in the horizontal direction.

Drive the nail exactly in the center of the mounting hole.
The siding assembly technology provides for a compensation gap between the siding and accessories (5-6 mm). If installation takes place in cold weather, leave a gap of about 9-10 mm.
Once the siding panel has snapped into place with the bottom piece, do not use force to pull it further.

Tools

Circular electric saw and hacksaw.
Metal ruler, hammer and tape measure.
Pliers.
Screwdriver and awl.
Knife and scissors for metal.
Building level.

Surface preparation

Securely fix old lagging wallboards, replacing them with new ones if necessary.
If necessary, remove plaster residue around window openings and doors.
Remove downpipes, window sills, and various fixtures from your home.
Remove any plants that are in contact with the wall.

Lathing installation

Most often, the crate is made of boards or wooden slats- the price of such materials is low compared to metal profiles. To install horizontal siding, the elements of the crate must be installed vertically with a step between them of 0.3-0.4 m.

Note! For vertical installation panels, the rules for mounting the crate are the same, but install it horizontally.

Before you learn how the siding is assembled, you need to pay attention to the fact that the crate allows you to accurately and evenly install the insulation boards. This will not only increase the efficiency of the house, but will also prevent the manifestation of the so-called "wave" effect.

Advice! When using insulation in slabs or rolls, please note that loose material cannot be used - it can be deformed.

Siding installation

Using a level, twine and chalk around the entire perimeter of the house, draw a horizontal line on the wall. Use as a reference position the first nail to be driven in 4.0 cm above the lowest point of the house.
Fasten the starting strip with nails, applying it with the upper edge to the drawn chalk line. Don't fasten it too tightly.
When adding sections of the starting strip, leave a distance of about 6 mm between adjacent elements, which compensates for the possible expansion.
Install at the junction of walls internal corners, taking into account the distances to the eaves and the starting strip. Attach this accessory with nails in the center of the holes - it should hang freely on them, and not be tightly nailed!

The siding assembly scheme provides for compliance with a similar technology for installation outer corner, which is mounted, leaving a distance of 6 mm to the eaves.
The J-rail is fastened around various openings, nailing it to them not too tightly.
To install the first element, you need to insert the lower edge of the panel into the starting strip and nail its upper edge. Start assembling the siding from the back of the building, gradually moving towards the facade.
Next, consider how to assemble the siding after completing the installation of the first row. To continue the installation, each time you need to install a new row, starting from the back of the house, again moving towards the pediment. The siding panels must be positioned in such a way that the junction of their top row is not over the junction of the bottom row.

To install panels under the window - cut right size elements. Measurements will be required. Attach the siding under the window and, holding the panel, mark the width of the opening on it, in addition to which add 6 mm on each side.

To install the last panel of siding under the eaves, nail one or more finishing battens to the wall of the house, flush with it. Dock the parts exactly as shown in the photo.

Summary

Now you know how to properly assemble siding. Carry out all installation operations in full accordance with the instructions - an excellent result will not keep you waiting.

One of the most popular ways to finish the facade is the installation of siding panels. They allow you to give an individual look due to the wide colors, shape and material from which they are made.

The available siding installation technology allows you to assemble it yourself as a designer. The variety is great, but we will talk about how to install vinyl siding, the principles of working with this material and the installation steps.

But first, let's talk about accessories. Those details with which you can finish the facade of your house.

Important! All components must be made from the same material. with the same coefficient of thermal expansion. To prevent deformation of the structure.

Description of accessories

starting profile - a load-bearing element, the first siding panel is attached to it;
the finishing bar is the last in a row, hides the top edge of the last panel;
corner elements - with their help, corners are formed, the profiles have grooves in which the siding panel is placed;
platbands for doors and windows - perform a decorative function, making out door and window openings;
window and door profiles - if the window or door is not flush with the wall, but in a recess, then these profiles will help close the slopes when finishing;
J-profile is needed for fastening panels, sometimes used instead of corner profiles;
J-chamfer is necessary to decorate the edge of the roof, otherwise it is called - a wind board;
ebbs are designed to drain water from the walls;
ceiling soffits are perforated and solid, close from below, the overhanging part of the roof, perforated provide ventilation between the siding and the wall;
moldings connect panels located in different planes;
H-profile is required for joining panels.

Mounting principles

Vinyl is a material that tends to change its shape and size with changes in temperature factors. This must be taken into account during installation. Therefore, when assembled, the structure of siding panels should not be tightly attached to the frame, parts and elements should be able to move easily relative to other components and parts.

The siding panels have technological holes for fasteners, which have an oblong shape. This is no coincidence, the self-tapping screw must be screwed in the center of this hole (the exception is the upper fastener of the vertical elements), so as not to interfere with the change in the shape of the material.

Do not screw in the self-tapping screw tightly, leave a gap of 1 mm under its head. You can not screw the panel through the vinyl, if necessary, make a hole with a cutter. The diameter of the screw must be smaller than the resulting hole.

Leave gaps of 6 mm between the end of the siding panel and the profiles (J or H), in case of expansion. If the installation takes place at a low temperature (-5 and below), increase the gaps to 9 mm. The gaps at the vertical panels, at the top - 3-4 mm, at the bottom - 6-8 mm.

Overlaps and joints do not need to be treated with sealant.

As guides for the battens, a metal profile or wooden beam. To make the facade last longer, it is preferable to mount metal carcass. But, if you still decide to use wooden ones, make sure they are well dried. Vertical guides are mounted at a distance of 40 cm.

When installing start profiles, the gap between them should be 12 mm. When joining overlapping siding panels, trim its fasteners so that there is 12 mm between them.

When installing the panel, do not overdo it, apply just enough effort so that the siding lock snaps into place with the bottom profile, do not overtighten or deform the structure.

Wall preparation

Dismantle everything that can interfere with the installation of siding: water drains, shutters, lighting fixtures, etc. Align the walls, close the cracks and cracks. Cracks in the walls can be repaired with a plaster solution, and metal parts can be treated with anti-corrosion compounds. If the house is wooden, treat it with a flame retardant and an antiseptic.

Installing guides

Installation of the frame begins with the installation of corner rails. They are attached to the wall using suspensions controlling the verticality with a building level. A cord is stretched between them and all guides are installed in the same plane.

Attention! If it is supposed to insulate the house, then you need to calculate the distance from the wall of the building to the frame, it must be greater than the thickness of the insulation in order to provide a ventilated space. The second option is to first install a layer of insulation, and then mount the siding frame.

Installation of the start profile

Using the building level, find the lowest point on the frame, screw the self-tapping screw 5 cm above it. At the opposite end of the wall, also screw in a self-tapping screw (at the same level) and pull the rope between them. Repeat the same operation around the entire perimeter. The line that the rope forms will be the boundary of the starting profile.

Attach corner profile. On the rails of the crate, mark the border of the angular profile.

Install the first profile, maintaining a distance from the corner profile of 6 mm, the gap between the starting strips is 12 mm.

It is possible not to make a gap of 6 mm, but in this case it is necessary to cut the fastenings of the corner profile.

Important! When mounting the starting profile, constantly monitor its horizontal position. Otherwise, the quality of the final result will be in question.

Installing the outer corner profile

Before installing the corner element, mark on the wall the place where the spotlights adjoin it, or install the spotlights. When installing the corner profile, make sure that the gap between it and the soffit is 3 mm, fix it with upper self-tapping screws on both walls. The bottom edge should be 6mm below the starting bar.

After making sure that the profile is vertical, fasten the profile along the entire length. If the length of one corner element is not enough, you need to overlap by 25 mm to install the second one, cutting it so that the distance between the mounting sites is 9 mm.

You can do without the outer corner profile, and use two J-profiles. In this case, we win in time, but lose in waterproofing.

Installation of the internal corner profile

Similar to the outer profile, make sure that there is a gap (3 mm) between the top edge and the soffit, and the bottom one is 6 mm below the starting profile. If necessary, the inner element is also possible to "build up".

The inner corner element can be replaced with one or two J-profiles.

Installing door and window frames

For this operation, we use window and door frames. Planks are installed along the perimeter of window and door openings.

If the window and doors are "recessed" into the wall, we use platbands with a profile that covers the slopes.

Installing the Launchpad

Insert the first panel into the start profile. Insert the ends into the grooves of the corner elements. Make sure there are end gaps. We begin to fix the panel from the middle, moving to the edges. Don't forget about the gap under the screw head.

If the panel is shorter than the length of the wall, use a connecting strip - H-profile for extension.

You can do without the bar, in this case we mount the siding with an overlap.

Installing the following panels

Having reached the window, make a cutout in the panel according to the size of the window opening plus 6 mm on each side (temperature gap).

Installation of siding panel under the cornice

Before mounting the last (top) panel, a finishing profile is installed, you can use a J-profile or a corner profile. Taking into account the upper gap of 3 mm, the desired part is cut out. Since the lock part is cut off, we make hooks with a punch. We insert and snap the last profile.

Installation of a siding panel on the gable

Sheathe the gables along the perimeter with a J-profile (can be angular). The installation of panels on the gable is similar to the process on the wall. With the difference that trimming will be carried out according to the shape of the roof slope. And here do not forget about the gaps of 6 mm.

Soffit installation

In addition to the decorative function (close lower part roof), perforated soffits provide ventilation for the roof structure.

Using a level, draw a line on the wall parallel to the bottom edge of the pediment. Attach a J-profile along this line and to the edge of the gable. Planks should be located opposite each other. Measure the distance between the grooves, subtract 6mm, cut the part to the desired length. Insert the soffit into the grooves and secure with a self-tapping screw.

Vertical skin

If it is necessary to make a vertical sheathing, place the lathing horizontally, place the starting profiles along the central axis, and all other installation steps are similar to the horizontal sheathing.

Siding is an excellent material for cladding a house. This rather inexpensive and long-lasting material can be installed with your own hands even by a person who does not have special building skills. To do this, just study the installation instructions for siding and watch the video material.

Wall surface preparation

Before starting work on the installation of panels, the walls of the sheathed building must be carefully prepared.

First of all, you should:

Remove all protruding window sills and ebbs.
Remove all kinds of fasteners, downpipes, existing moldings from the walls.
Remove loose plaster from the plastered surface.
On the wooden walls nail all the lagging boards and replace the rotten ones.

After that, you can proceed with the installation of the frame, which can be made of a metal profile or a wooden beam.

Profile mounting

Experts recommend using a durable and strong metal crate, which you can attach with your own hands even to an uneven base. Such a frame is installed with a half-meter step and attached to the surface with the help of suspensions. This will fix the structural elements in level and smooth out surface differences.

When choosing a wooden crate, you should note for the following points:

the material should not have traces of rot and bluish spots;
it is unacceptable for the bars to be deformed;
the material must not flake.

To wooden crate served for a long time, it is impregnated with an antiseptic or flame retardant.

Profiles or bars are installed vertically on the wall of the house. To wooden surface they are attached with screws or nails. If the building is built of bricks or concrete blocks, then holes are drilled in the walls into which dowels are hammered.

Rules for fastening the frame of the crate:

Bars are mounted every 40 cm.
The rails should be fixed around all doors and windows, at all corners of the building, at the bottom and top of the siding.
The crate must be securely fastened.
The plane formed by the frame must be strictly vertical.
The panel is attached to at least two bars.
The front parts of the bars should not have distortions.

When installing the profile with your own hands, you must use a plumb line and a long level. With their help, the surface must be carefully marked, and the verticality of the plane carefully checked. Otherwise, the facade cladding may turn out to be uneven and wavy.

If the building must be additionally insulated, then the space between the lathing bars can be fill with special material. Under siding, it is recommended to use mineral wool in slabs. It is better not to lay loose insulation under the panels, since it is often deformed during operation. To make the surface of the house even, the thickness of the material must be equal to the thickness of the bars.

Sequence of work for home insulation:

Plates are fastened between the bars of the crate.
A diffusion wind-hydroprotective layer is installed on top of the insulation, which is fixed with perforated membranes.
Bars with a section of 4x2 cm are stuffed, with the help of which a gap for ventilation is provided.

Siding installation: video instruction, stages of work

Before starting work, prepare the following tools:

Roulette.
Building level.
Screwdriver.
Perforator or drill.
Electric jigsaw or knife. With their help, the panels will be prepared in size. Experts recommend using a jigsaw, after which a more beautiful cut is obtained.

You should be aware that if a grinder is used to cut panels, then it can only be used at low speeds. Otherwise, the cut of the vinyl sheet will heat up and melt.

Starter bar attachment

To a wooden or metal crate, the first siding panels are attached from below, and then each subsequent one is placed above the previous one. Due to this, the insulation and surfaces have an additional rain protection.

The correct installation of the entire cladding depends on the initial bar attached around the entire perimeter of the building, so this type of work should be approached with all responsibility.

The lower mark is marked (a self-tapping screw is screwed in or a nail is driven in), which should be 50 mm above the lower point of the crate.
Such marks should be made on all walls of the building. At the same time, a thread is pulled between the screws, the correct tension of which is checked by the building level.
On a stretched thread with the help of chalk, a line is marked along which the starting bars will be installed. As a result of the work, the start and finish marks should match.
Attach a bar to the corner crate and mark the boundaries of its location.
Stepping back from the marked border of 6 mm, you can proceed to fixing the starting profile. Do not forget that the distance between the slats should be from 10-12 mm. This is necessary so that during temperature changes they do not touch.
When using brackets as fasteners, the gap between them and the profile should be 1 mm.

Some experts advise you to immediately install the starting strips on the door and window blocks. But the need for them does not always arise, since the sizes of windows and doors are often not ideal, and ordinary profiles may end up not at the level of the initial bar.

Do-it-yourself installation of corner profiles

Ordinary panels will be installed in the corner strips, so they are mounted first.

Mounting Features:

In order for the appearance of the building to look harmonious, the joints at the corners and the connector must be on the same level.

Installation of siding around openings

Openings can be located in the same plane with the facade or be recessed into it. That's why installation of panels around openings can be done in two versions.

If the openings with the walls are in the same plane, then the waterproofing is first mounted, and then 4 platbands are attached to each opening and the panels are connected. To prevent connections from being visible, the following rules must be observed:

make incisions-bridges on both sides of the upper profile with your own hands (they should be equal to its height);
bend the bridges down;
on the side profiles, remove pieces of material that interfere with the connection;
connect the side and top panel of the siding so that the bent bridges are inside;
connect the lower casing and side elements, in which bridges are notched on the sides.

The incised bridges go down so that atmospheric precipitation from the upper bar goes to the lower one.

If the openings are recessed into the facade, then the cuts on the profile must be equal to the depth of the opening. All other work is carried out in the same way as when installing platbands. The bridges should be bent so that the joints of the cladding parts are not visible. In this case, moisture will not get inside.

Installing the first panel

When doing the installation of siding with your own hands for the first time, it is recommended to start installing the first panels on the most inconspicuous side of the house.

Insert the panel into the corner profile and connect to the lock of the starter strip, leaving a 6 mm gap.
Attach the plank to the crate without tension.

Vinyl siding in the cold season can increase its size to 18 mm. Therefore, when installing it, it is necessary to strictly observe technological indents. If the cladding is installed in winter time year, then the gaps should be equal to 9 mm, if in the summer - 6 mm.

Siding extension

Panels are stackable overlap or with H-profile.

Before overlapping, locks and fixing frames are trimmed so that the overlap length is 25 mm.
When installing the H-profile, 6 mm should be retreated from the starting strip at the bottom, and 3 mm at the top from the soffit. If there are protruding obstacles on the facade, 6 mm should be retreated from them, that is, the H-profile should not touch them. The H-profile is overlapped, in the same way as the corner strips.

Features of the installation of the main siding

To securely fasten the panels, a punch (special punch) is needed, with which “hooks” will be made.

From the bottom of the panel falling on the opening, a part is cut off equal to the width of the opening plus a double technological gap of 6 mm.

The strips cut off at the ends will be able to move in the lock of the near-opening profile and provide a margin of 2 mm.

A finishing profile must be installed in the lower part of the opening, with the help of which the cladding is leveled in a plane.

When installing siding with your own hands, it should be remembered that every third row of panels must be checked for horizontality, using a level for this.

under the roof J-profile should be installed, work with which is carried out in the following order:

The distance between the lock of the penultimate and the lock of the last panel is measured, from which 2 mm is subtracted by an indent.
On the whole bar, the result is noted and the upper part with the lock is cut off.
In the upper part of the resulting element, “hooks” are created, the distance between which should be 20 cm. For this, cuts are made that are bent to the front side.
The prepared panel is installed in the penultimate plank and connected upwards to the lock of the finishing profile.

The building is completed with siding along the perimeter of the pediment. To do this, you can use the start profile or panels for internal corners.

Installation is similar to installation of wall panels:

Since the profile will not be visible under the roof, the remains of the panels can be used to finish the gable.

Do-it-yourself siding installation will not cause difficulties if you first study video lesson and during work, strictly follow the instructions, as well as the advice and recommendations of specialists. As a result of such a finish, you will get a house that will delight the owners with its appearance long years.