Sheathing houses with metal siding. Proper sheathing of the house with metal siding Sheathe a log house with metal siding

Finishing a house with metal siding is usually used as a method roofing works. Meanwhile, the operational and design advantages of this material allow it to be used as a universal facade cladding- reliable, beautiful and quickly erected.

Finishing a house with metal siding - the pros and cons of a comprehensive repair

The repair benefits of siding are due to its layered structure and modern technologies in the production of such cladding:

Ease. A square meter of siding for the facade weighs about 1-1.5 kilograms, which means not only ease of installation. Many facade walls they will not physically withstand facing with stone or other heavy panels - siding can significantly save on strengthening the wall base;
Strength and durability. based siding steel sheet, coated with zinc and polymers, has the strength of steel, it is very resistant to atmospheric adversity and accidental mechanical shock;
Wide choice of colors and textures. The collections of large companies include log-like metal siding, the installation of which is relevant for walls, roof and plinth panels, elements for precise matching, and high-quality fasteners. Metal siding makes it possible to clad a house from the roof ridge to drainage ditch according to a single design plan. Other materials will have to be combined, separately selected, purchased, installed, etc.;
Efficiency and speed of repair procedures. Compared with natural wood or artificial stone siding is several times cheaper. It is permissible to install it on newly completed, so-called "fresh" walls, at any time of the year. The rest of the panels can be used as decorative inserts at interior decoration premises, so that there is almost no installation waste left;
The possibility of finishing walls with bizarre geometry. With a limited repair budget, there is often simply no other way to veneer complex surfaces;
Installation of metal siding is the installation of a ventilated facade. Internal mounting gaps can be easily insulated without additional investment, or combine this procedure with wall insulation from the inside. Thus, an attractive appearance will be combined with full-fledged thermal comfort of the whole house.

Of course, finishing the house with metal siding has its own characteristic "cons", but they are not numerous. Firstly, it is the need for a careful and time-consuming installation of the frame. Secondly, the need for a large number of auxiliary materials - from initial profiles to fixing fittings, cornices and corners. Thirdly, with a lack of experience common mistake is inaccurate (uneven) cutting of siding panels - as a result, they go to rejection, and new ones have to be used in place of the "tie-in".

With the development of installation skills for working with siding, all the above-mentioned shortcomings are more than offset by the repair and design advantages of durable metallized cladding.

Metal siding under a log - installation of imitation of massive wood

Sheets of metal siding for a long time produced in the usual "flat" form. Relatively recently, three-dimensional structures have appeared that exactly repeat the structure of centuries-old log cabins - geometrically, in texture and in color. Such material is intended specifically for walls; there are no precedents for the use of logs for roofing even in ancient Russian architecture. Even less appropriate log trim roofs today - but as a wall cladding, such a repair solution is distinguished by versatility and practicality.

Durability of facade repair according to the principle "Once and for all!" achievable only with siding based on metal sheets. Plaster has a service life of 5-8 years, facing with natural / artificial stone - up to 15 years, metal siding with proper installation will last up to 25 years without the slightest decrease in aesthetic appeal and operational reliability.

How to sheathe a house with metal siding - installation instructions

Like most repair procedures using a frame, at least 90% of the quality of all installation work depends on the accuracy of its installation.

How to sheathe a house with metal siding - step by step diagram

Step 1: Settlement and preparation

It is necessary to measure all the walls (and the basement with the roof, if included in the facing plans). It is best to take measurements with scaffolding- so it will be possible to assess the strength of the wall base for metal siding. If the plaster from the wall crumbles in whole layers, if the masonry is loosened, and the beams are cracked, decorating a rotten house with siding will not help, just waste your money and effort.

For proper fastening reliability, the strength of the walls is necessary. If necessary, it is possible to shoot a grid on separate sections, followed by plaster cement mortar, replace individual bricks or beams. Run this assembly preparation it is necessary a few days before the installation of siding panels - the cement should "grab" well.

Step 2: Cleaning and Marking

The entire wall surface is swept with a broom, layers of mortar, peeling paint, remnants of the previous generation of putty, etc. are removed from it. All foreign objects (nails, platbands, other decorations, etc.) must be removed from the walls.

The basic fastener for wall siding is a branded bracket.

They are screwed in vertical rows, with a distance between each row of 50-70 cm and the same clearance. Long (at least 50 mm) self-tapping screws are used to fasten the brackets to the walls. Vertical marking lines must be applied strictly according to the level, drawing even grooves on the walls. As a result, the house will be "lined" with vertical stripes for future fasteners.

Step 3: Mount the frame

A huge advantage of branded brackets is reasonably considered to be their height adjustment (that is, the distance from the wall). After mounting the vertical rows of brackets, T-shaped strips are screwed to them. It is important to use metal T-bars, not wood! Saving on this fittings will lead to unreliability and short term services of the entire cladding. Bolted (that is, collapsible) fasteners of metal frame slats are preferred.

The "T" shaped metal strips can be fitted to the brackets using the perforated mounting holes. However, the size of such an adjustment is small, it is only a few centimeters. The measurement of the frame is carried out with a long (up to 2 meters) and accurate level. If any part sticks out or is recessed, the brackets are reinstalled. Auxiliary planks are placed under them or a wall is hemmed. The main task is to achieve complete sheerness and parallelism of the T-shaped metal strips to each other.

Step 4: We complete the installation of the frame and perform wall insulation

After precise mounting T-shaped moldings are fastened to them with fastening strips under the siding itself using short self-tapping screws. It is important to maintain a constant dimension between the fastening strips, with an accuracy of a few millimeters. Otherwise, the configuration of the metal siding will shift, and the entire structure will soon deform.

Before sheathing the house metal siding, it is necessary to determine the insulation and performance of wall insulation. Any type of thermal insulation is installed under the metal crate - from rolled polymer to the usual foam. It is important to leave a gap between the insulation and back side framework to keep internal ventilation facade.

Step 5: Finish Siding

With a high-quality and durable installation of the frame, the siding panels are installed quickly and easily. Work starts from the bottom up and leads to the very roof. It is convenient to cut metal siding with a sharp hacksaw for metal. The joining of individual strips is carried out using special joining strips or overlapping, the first option is more reliable in the long run.

Short self-tapping screws for facade fastening assembled with rubberized washers - they seal the holes and take into account the thermal expansion of the metal. Given the large number of screws used (the mounting pitch is from 12 to 18 cm), it is necessary to stock up on a screwdriver - manual installation siding with an area of \u200b\u200b10 m 2 or more will lead to blisters from a screwdriver on the most strained hands. Corners and joints are closed with decorative strips last, when the entire surface is already lined.

Metal siding is a common cladding for wooden houses seasonal residence or other buildings. It is notable for its low cost, ease and speed of installation, as it has a large size, more than other types it protects private buildings from exposure external factors. However, it has its own nuances, so the finish wooden house metal siding should be carried out strictly according to the instructions.

Disadvantages of profiled sheets and individual slats

The advantages have already been said - low price, home protection. However, they should not mislead the owners regarding the ideality of the material - the disadvantages of such a cladding are significant. More:

Susceptibility to corrosion. metal and moisture best neighbors. Siding from it is sold treated with mastics or other compounds to prevent rust stains. However, during installation, you will need to cut it into the right dimensions and the edge will be bare. Owners should be aware that self processing the cut is extremely important.
Cold lining. Finishing a wooden house with metal siding is necessarily accompanied by insulation, since the material itself is not able to retain heat. In addition, there must be a layer between the wood and iron, otherwise the temperature difference will necessarily lead to the formation of condensate, and then the house runs the risk of starting to rot.
Bad soundproofing. Even if modern mattresses are laid under the lining, then the cannonade at night from the weather is guaranteed.

But imitations of profiled sheets and metal siding with planks still make this type of sheathing popular. It is not difficult to make your own object under a brick, ship timber or another kind. Finishing the house with metal siding under a log of valuable species is in great demand.

Instructions for sheathing a wooden house with metal siding

To do quality work, you should start with the right choice of products and the subsequent preparation of surfaces. So:

The choice of a quality product depends on the conscientiousness of the manufacturer and its period of being on the market. construction market. If you have to buy goods in an unfamiliar network, then you should pay attention to the color of the raw materials - metal siding for finishing a wooden house should be without visible streaks and a fine grid of cracks. Their presence indicates a poor-quality coating, which will peel off from the profiled sheet over time.

Technological openings should be oval. This is compensation for deformation of the siding during the temperature difference in the off-season. If you screw the sheets tightly, then when bent, they can bend or lead, which will affect the level of the entire skin.

To work on the entire surface of the house, not only sheets or planks are purchased, but also a starting profile, corners - external and external, platbands, connections. It is also worth checking each element for the functioning of the lock mates - they should easily snap into place.

Next, prepare the walls. This means cleaning from the surface from protruding parts - trim, thresholds, window sills. Dirt, rubbish is also swept out, caulking is changing.

Immediately you need to soak all the wood with all kinds of caulks - more of this possibility is not expected. By the way, if the percentage of damage is significant, then you will have to not only work with the compositions, but cut out rotten pieces of logs.

In advanced cases, whole whips are changed. Otherwise, finishing a wooden house with metal siding will be a waste of time - damage in the form of wet rot and mold will pass to the sheet, and then corrosion is within easy reach.

The next step is the preparation of the crate. For all types of siding - from wooden lining to fiber cement panels, one rule works - they install profiles for attaching planks strictly perpendicular to the sheathing itself. That is, if it is decided to lay the siding horizontally, then the crate has only vertical guides and vice versa.

What is the point? The wood of the house should be well ventilated, which the cladding does not contribute at all. Therefore, the creation as possible more air channels, by no means a whim, but a necessity - vertical or horizontal gaps will perform this task perfectly.

metal profile or wooden beam for the crate should be wide. The calculation is simple - the thickness of the insulation + 1.5 cm of free space. The fastening step is 50-60 cm, that is, the standard styrene plate will enter the crate sector tightly and without gaps.

The choice of insulation. Finishing houses outside with metal siding is not complete without insulation. Firstly, an old log, not to mention a beam, does not hold heat well.

Secondly, the metal should not be a cold bridge for the house, and, as mentioned above, serve as a platform for condensate due to temperature differences. Today, styrene boards are recognized as the best among heaters - polyurethane, polystyrene foam, penofol. Cotton mats are hygroscopic - the sheathing must have complete tightness so that moisture does not seep in and does not cause the material to cake. Then there can be no question of warming.

After the slabs or mats are laid, proceed to attach the waterproofing. In this capacity, rolled rubber, polymer film or other materials that can even trap vapors are good. Waterproofing is fixed with a furniture stapler.
Now you can start lining. Horizontal or vertical finishing with metal siding of houses begins with the installation of the starting bar. The position of the entire canvas depends on it, which means that you should act strictly according to the level.

Fastening the bar, in fact, like all siding, should not be tightly, keeping in mind that compensation gaps are needed. Without bringing the screws to the end by 1-2 mm, you can complete this task.

The bar is fixed with a groove down, this will save the siding from accidental raindrops and stagnation there. Further, the work will go on knurled: the next sheet is inserted into the bar and fastened in a similar way.

The corners, especially if the house is chopped into a bowl, that is, with the remainder, are lined in the same way as other surfaces, you just have to pay special attention to their insulation. You can’t leave them outside, they already take on the cold of the Russian winter.

There is a special corner siding on sale, it will neatly close the protrusions from the common box. After complete installation, slopes, ebbs and other fittings are attached.

Beautiful decoration of the facade of the house with metal siding is achieved by selecting contrasting elements. If you make slopes, ebbs, window sills of a different color than the general background, then the object will not look gray and dull, but with a claim to presentability. By the way, the general background should be light - this is taken into account when purchasing - the sun's rays will affect the color and over time it will begin to fade.

Objects with imitations of timber, stone, brick and other decorations will also look unusual. Finishing a house with metal siding under a log is the most popular.

Installation of metal siding does not require special skills or the use of sophisticated equipment. The process consists of successive stages, in order to achieve a high-quality result, it is necessary to take into account some rules and recommendations. If the sequence of actions is followed, the cladding of the house will turn out to be reliable and durable, and the facade will acquire an attractive appearance.

There are a number of factors to consider when framing:

Necessary materials and tools

To install metal siding, you will need the following:

The tool needed for wall cladding with siding

For best results, a metal siding subsystem may be used. It is designed specifically for fixing panels and includes a number of elements: a bracket, an L-shaped strip and a Z-profile used for horizontal cladding.

The technology of working with such a subsystem: brackets are fixed to the wall, on which the G-profile is fixed. The design is suitable for vertical installation, for horizontal installation Z-bars are mounted on top.

Preparatory work

Before installing the main coating, it is necessary to perform a number of previous steps:

In parallel, the missing tools and materials are being prepared.

The construction of the crate

When deciding how to properly sheathe a house with metal siding, they take into account that the simplest and most affordable option is to create a frame from standard elements.

Wooden

Due to the fact that a properly fixed crate is a guarantee of the reliability and durability of the coating, the work must be approached very responsibly. step by step algorithm actions:

To install the frame, a beam with a section of 50 * 40 or 50 * 50 is used. The material is pre-treated with antiseptics and fire retardants.
Surface marking is in progress. Main posts must be perpendicular cladding panels. Lines are drawn in increments of 50–60 cm.
After drying, the beam is drilled under the screws. The pitch of the mounting holes is from 20 to 40 cm. These fixation points are transferred to the previously marked lines. Holes for dowels are drilled according to the marks with a perforator.
Racks are exposed and pre-fixed, after which the beam is leveled and substrates are placed under it. Final fixing is in progress.
For greater convenience, with the help of a plumb line and a level, corner posts. A cord is stretched between them, allowing you to quickly align the remaining elements.

For device wooden crate carefully processed and dried timber is used

The resulting gaps between the wall and the beam are carefully filled mounting foam. This will eliminate the appearance of "cold bridges" after laying. thermal insulation material.

metal

Do-it-yourself crate of metal profiles is erected according to the following scheme:

Marking is in progress. Installation lines are drawn in increments of 50–60 cm. When working with a base - 35–50 cm.
Fixing in progress hanging elements frame. To do this, holes are drilled according to the marking at a distance of 35–45 cm, suspensions are fixed to the screws and dowels and bent to the desired shape.
The corner segments are first exposed and carefully aligned along the plane. A cord is stretched between them to align the remaining racks.

Rack alignment metal frame made with a cord that is stretched between the corner profiles

The assembly of the frame requires accuracy, all parts must be placed exactly on the level and form a single plane.

On a note! Regardless of the method of creating the crate, windows and doorways are lined separately. Racks are placed along their perimeter, forming a closed system associated with the main fragments.

VIDEO:

Hydro and thermal insulation of walls

Sheathing a house with metal siding often involves additional insulation. Various materials are suitable for this, but the most affordable and preferred for self-laying are mineral wool or penoplex (an improved version of foam).

Thermal insulation and waterproofing are performed as follows:

On a note! If a facade is arranged with ventilation gap, then a rail of the required thickness is mounted on a wooden frame strictly along the beam, and a Z-profile or a similar element is mounted on a metal frame.

Panel mounting

Step-by-step instruction:

The tide is installed. It is necessary in the presence of protruding sections of the base.
The starting profile is laid down. If the part is located together with the drain, then it is leveled and fixed directly above the ebb.

Installation of the starting bar: with and without a low tide

When fixing from below, the initial fragment must be installed according to a certain scheme:
- Leave a small distance from the ground or blind area. The initial line is marked, from which 40 mm recede upwards (for standard planks).
- Corner pieces are attached. The starting part should be at a distance of 5–10 mm from them. If it is supposed to be mounted flush, then internal sections are cut out in the corner segments.
- Screws are screwed in the center of the existing holes. The profile is carefully checked for level.
- Docking of fragments is performed with a gap of 6–10 mm.

Exposed external and inner corner. Since such parts are not always available, a J-profile can be used as an alternative. You can trim the corners with simple decorative overlays.

If the size of the siding is not enough or decoration is being carried out, connecting strips (H-profile) are used.

The edges of the panel are led around the corner or the corner and the connecting profile and lowered to join the starting element. The part is fixed through the existing holes. Similarly, sheathe the entire area. Each connecting node checked by level.
At the final stage, a finishing bar or J-profile is installed on top, depending on the situation. If the panel is cut, then notches are made along its edge that go into the installed profile and ensure the reliability of fasteners.

The final stage of sheathing the house with metal siding is the installation of the finishing bar, into which the last panel is inserted.

If it is required to sheathe the roof overhangs, then a soffit is used.

Should know! Finishing the house with a metal L-beam, the components are placed the other way around, since the installation is carried out from top to bottom.

VIDEO:

Decoration of windows and doors

It is possible to clad window and door openings from the outside in several ways, identical for all structures.

The first option is the simplest: the siding is trimmed and fixed along the edge of the installed frame parts, solid strips are attached above and below, a low tide is installed, and slopes of a suitable material are set.
You can make such a design with the help of accessories for siding. To do this, first a profile is laid on the inside, and a near-window bar on the outside.

Similarly, work can be done with the help of platbands, which are installed with a shallow opening. They must be fixed on the outside, after cutting off the corners at 45 degrees. Then you should assemble the structure framing the opening.

Today it is very fashionable to finish the facades of buildings with metal siding. There are several reasons for the popularity of such a finish: the strength and durability of the material; ease of installation; the ability to create an imitation of any surface.

Varieties

There are several types of metal siding:

basement;
facade;
ceiling;
vertical (panels are installed vertically);
metal siding with insulation. The panel of such siding has several layers: decorative coating, metal base, one or more layers of thermal insulation material and protective layer. A building finished with such material does not need additional insulation.

Application area

Metal siding is widely used in the decoration of building facades, plinths and roof cornices, as well as ceilings.

Despite the “heavy” name, metal siding is a lightweight finishing material.

facade siding used only for exterior walls.
basement siding differs from the usual moisture resistance and more dark shade and is used to finish the lower part of the building (basement).
Roof eaves finishing, as well as open terraces and balconies is carried out using perforated siding, the panels of which have slots for better air circulation. The second name for perforated siding is soffit.
ceiling siding serves for finishing ceilings both in closed and in open spaces(gazebos, garages, terraces).

Types and coating of panels

According to the material of manufacture, they distinguish:

aluminum siding. This type used for facing offices, residential buildings and industrial buildings. The light weight of aluminum panels (1700 grams per square meter) makes it possible to use aluminum siding for finishing multi-storey buildings;
steel siding. Most often, for its manufacture, galvanized steel is taken with a coating on the surface. protective coating polyester, pural or plastisol. Another coating option is also possible - applying a coloring powder. This method allows you to get panels of various shades.

Metal siding can mimic many surfaces:

under a tree (beam);
under a stone;
under the clinker brick;
under the rounded log;
under the shipboard.

By invoice Distinguish smooth siding, which does not have any protrusions on the surface and roll-up siding imitating the texture of natural wood or stone. In terms of cost, smooth panels do not differ from rolled panels, but the finish with textured siding looks much more aesthetically pleasing.
The following materials can serve as a coating for panels:

polyester- one of the popular coatings, performed in different shades. The only negative is the instability to mechanical damage;
matte polyester– has a greater coating thickness than ordinary polyester, does not shine, due to which its surface looks “velvet”;
plastisol- has matte surface and high resistance to mechanical damage. But if the material is still damaged, it will be very difficult to restore it;
polyurethane coating– its thickness is 50 microns, which is twice the thickness of polyester. The material can withstand heating up to 120 degrees;
Printech- a drawing applied by the method of photo printing. It has many shades and can imitate various surfaces.

Dimensions, shape and color palette

The dimensions of metal siding sheets depend on the type. The thickness (wave height) of the steel profile of the panels ranges from 4 to 20 mm. The length of the panels is 500-6000 mm, the width is 200-260 mm, and the mounting width is slightly larger than the overall one, and weight of one square meter- 2.4-3.5 kg. The edge of the panel has a height of 18 mm.

When purchasing Ruukki products, you will need a color conversion chart, which can be found on the Internet.

Panels vary in shape.. Siding "ship board" consists of two waves and a castle. This type is usually used for cladding large areas, because due to the large width, the number of mounted profiles is reduced.
Also popular are panels of the “M” and “W” type, which have a lock on one side and an overlap on the other. The direction of the ends of these profiles resembles the letter "M" or "W".
When buying, the seller usually offers profiles of those shades that are available. To determine the color, the RAL palette coding is used. Here all shades are numbered, which allows in the future, if necessary, to easily purchase profiles and components of the required shade. The following shades of siding are most popular:

3005 - cherry;
3011 - bright red;
5005 - blue;
6002 - young grass;
6005 - green;
6020 - marsh;
7004 - gray;
8017 - brown;
9003 - white;
9006 - silver.

This encoding is used by most manufacturers of metal siding. The exception is the Finnish company Ruukki, which uses its own color chart.

Performance characteristics

Metal siding is more durable than its vinyl counterpart. This allows metal finish withstand strong mechanical loads (blows of branches, damage during installation, etc.).
Also metal panels can tolerate temperature fluctuations ranging from -30 to +70 degrees. The disadvantage is the high thermal conductivity of metal siding.

Stages of installation of metal siding

Installation of metal siding consists of several stages:

lathing installation. It is made of metal or wooden profiles with a width of at least 5 cm. When facing tall buildings, a variant of a metal crate for siding is used. When installing siding profiles horizontally, it is necessary that the guide battens are installed in a vertical position. And vertical installation provides for the horizontal position of the batten guides. The distance between the guides must be at least 50 cm. The higher the building and stronger construction, the smaller the step of the crate;
insulation and waterproofing. Insulating material (most often it is mineral wool) is cut into pieces and placed in each cell of the crate. The size of the pieces must strictly correspond to the size of the cell or slightly exceed them. This is necessary for a more dense laying of insulation. Next, a waterproofing film is attached, which should neither sag nor be attached with great tension. To wooden frame the film can be pinned with a stapler, the film is attached to the iron profiles with the help of dowel-nails;
fastening of facing profiles. They are attached from the bottom up. The starting bar is attached at a distance of 5 cm from the ground. Drainage strips are preliminarily mounted above the windows, doors and plinth. Further, with the help of self-tapping screws, the profiles themselves are fixed. The last profile is fastened with force and must enter the lock along its entire length.

When working with siding at height, follow safety precautions!

Pros and cons of the material

Metal cladding has the following advantages:

strength. Unlike a vinyl counterpart, metal siding is not afraid of strong mechanical loads;
stamina to temperature fluctuations. Metal profiles have a lower expansion coefficient than vinyl profiles, which means they will not crack from the cold and will not bend from the heat;
wide palette of shades. On the market you can find options that mimic natural materials(beam, log, stone, brick) and siding of bright colors (from red and green to black or pure white);
fire safety material;
environmental friendliness- even with strong heating, metal profiles will not emit harmful compounds;
ease of installation;
easy care– metal profiles have an absolutely smooth surface, which always looks fresh and shiny, and, if necessary, is easily washed with a jet of water from a hose.

But metal siding also has disadvantages, including higher price and weight compared to the vinyl counterpart. And metal profiles do not let air through at all, which is why in hot weather it will become stuffy in the room and a greenhouse effect will occur.
The disadvantages of metal siding include the fact that if you damage the coating, then the place of the chip will gradually become covered with rust. The only way out here is to replace the damaged profile.

Prices

The cost of metal siding depends on the material from which it is made and the type of coating. At the same time, aluminum siding will cost less than steel, where the cost directly depends on the thickness of the steel. The price of 1 square meter of metal siding ranges from 300 rubles and more. The most expensive components will cost - corners (the cost of one piece is almost equal to the cost of a square meter of siding) and starting strips, which are sold individually. You can buy accessories in the same place where they sell metal siding.

About the installation of metal siding in detail in this video:

Facing facades with metal siding is perhaps the most common finishing option. Facing the house with metal siding will perfectly protect the surface from external influences.
You just need to do the job right. In this article, we will figure out how to properly clad a house with metal siding. There will also be instructions for correct execution this work.

To insulate the protection of the premises, a large number of various materials. Facing the facade with metal siding is one of them. To do right choice, you need to take an interest in the properties of the design, determine the advantages and disadvantages of its varieties.
So:

The result of performing insulation and cladding with siding will definitely be warm and cozy in a room treated in this way. For this finish, even large temperature differences and high humidity absolutely not terrible. The main thing is to do all the work correctly.
The thickness of the insulation layer can be set at your discretion, since the cladding of the house with siding is attached to the frame.
Facing the outer walls with metal siding will serve for a long time. After all, it perfectly tolerates temperature extremes and high humidity.
A house with metal siding cladding can be made in several colors, although the color range is not large, but it is enough to match desired color and create an incredible and unique look.
Facing a wooden house with metal siding does not require large maintenance and maintenance costs. appearance. Care finished surface very simple: dirt is removed with a damp cloth. Therefore, this issue will not cause much trouble and does not take much time.
The preparatory stage is quite fast and does not require special expenses.
The cost of the material is relatively low, which makes it affordable for a large number wishing to perform just such a facade decoration.
Facing facades with metal siding is perfectly done with your own hands and therefore you can save a lot of money and the price of the entire structure will be much lower.
The disadvantage of this finish is that the frame has its own thickness (at least 5 cm, if insulation is not used), and this affects the dimensions of the room.

Finishing events for the home

To clad the facade with siding with insulation, you must follow technological requirements to complete the work and go through all the steps in the correct sequence. Then the design will turn out to be of high quality.

We prepare the surface

Facing houses with metal siding begins precisely with the preparation of the base plane. The work should be done diligently, only in this way it will be possible to ensure the desired effect expected from the results of wall cladding.