What mineral wool to insulate a wooden house. Thermal insulation of a wooden house with mineral wool for siding outside - a step-by-step description of the workflow

When building wooden house great value is paid to the insulation of the walls from the outside, which allows not only to create the most comfortable living conditions in the house, but also to significantly save on heating.

One of the most best materials used as insulation for wooden buildings is mineral wool.

Benefits of mineral wool

This thermal insulation material has whole line undeniable merits, thanks to which the insulation of wooden walls from the outside continues to gain more and more popularity. Let's note the most significant of them:

Excellent thermal insulation characteristics... In a wooden house insulated with mineral wool, it is warm even during the most severe winter.
High soundproofing ability. Mineral wool perfectly protects premises from external sources of noise, providing a state of peace and comfort in the house.
The material is not exposed to the destructive effects of chemicals.
Fire safety of the material.
Frost resistance is another plus of this material. Thermal insulation of a wooden house with mineral wool outside can be successfully performed in any climatic conditions. In addition, mineral wool does not undergo deformation, withstanding sudden temperature changes.
Profitability. The material is easy to install, and therefore the insulation of wooden walls from the outside can be done independently, without having special skills. This will allow you not to waste money on hired workers.

Installation of mineral wool

Mounting mineral wool can be done in two different ways:

The first way to insulate walls outside a wooden house is a device hinged structure, or the so-called "". With the device of such a structure, a special wooden or metal frame is erected. Then mineral wool is placed in the interprofile gaps, after which they perform outer skin walls with corrugated board, siding or other similar materials.

The second way to insulate a wooden house with mineral wool is "wet".

In this case, mineral wool slabs are glued to the surface of a wooden wall, then a layer of primer is applied to them, into which the reinforcing mesh is pressed, and only after that the finishing plastering is started.

Ventilated facade installation

During construction, also pay attention to indicators such as:

water absorption of the material - below 70;
thermal conductivity coefficient - not higher than 0.044.

Insulation of wooden walls from the outside is carried out in several stages:

Treat the wall with an antiseptic and let it dry completely.
Arrange a vapor barrier layer. For this, a waterproofing film, roofing material or foil is used. The vapor barrier film is attached with the fleecy side to the wall. It is important to remember that when laying an insulating layer between it and the wall of a wooden house, it is necessary to leave a small gap for excess moisture to escape. Otherwise, the wooden walls will start to rot and fungus will form on them.
Formwork is made of boards for fixing mineral wool

You need to nail the boards with an edge to the wall. It is worth noting that if the insulation has elastic edges, then the gaps between the racks are made 2 centimeters less than the width of the mineral wool slabs.

The gaps of the frame are filled with insulation. For more effective insulation of walls outside a wooden house, mineral wool is laid in the gaps of the frame in 2 layers. For the upper layer, a heater with a higher density is used, laying it in such a way that the middle of the slabs falls on the joints of the lower layer.
Carefully inspect the insulation layer for gaps, or so-called "cold bridges". If inter-slab gaps are found, they are sealed with pieces of mineral wool of the required size.
Arrange another layer of vapor barrier - this time, you need to lay the film with the glossy side inward.
To ensure free movement of air inside the structure, slats are attached to the frame on top of the insulation. The slats should be about five centimeters thick.
Perform exterior decoration walls.

Wet installation of mineral wool

When using this method of insulating a wooden house with mineral wool, it is recommended to choose an insulation whose density is higher than 80-120 kg / m².

Produce in the following sequence:

Clean and prime the surface of a wooden wall.
The cornice is mounted on the wall (from the bottom side). The cornice serves as a support for the heat-insulating material - it levels the structure horizontally, protects it from bad weather and insects.
Apply glue to the mineral wool slabs.
Carefully fix to the wall. The principle of gluing the boards is similar to the principle brickwork... When pasting door and window openings the joints of the slabs should not fall on the corners of the openings.
When the glue is completely dry, it is necessary to fix the mineral wool with dowels - "fungi". It is important to make sure that the “caps” of the dowels do not protrude over the mineral wool.
Further on corners and around doorways fix the reinforcing mesh and leave everything for a day to "set" the materials.
A layer of assembly plaster is applied and the reinforcing mesh is “immersed” in it. After that, a second leveling layer of plaster is applied.
Perform finishing walls.

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In this article, Anton Fryashkin talks about insulation frame house mineral wool. Competently executed insulation of a frame house can significantly reduce the cost of heating the premises. Exactly...

Almost 40% of invoices for payment utilities go for heating. Only the use of drastic measures aimed at insulating a wooden house with mineral wool will help to save a huge part of the family budget during the economic crisis. Owners of apartments in multi-storey buildings are very limited in the choice of the necessary building materials, and the situation is completely different for the owners of private houses made of a bar or log house. It is proposed to consider in more detail the ways of carrying out work aimed at warming your own wooden house.

Thermal insulation of a wooden house

Buildings made of such material as timber have been appreciated at all times, because in addition to high environmental friendliness, natural wood is characterized as a durable, beautiful and durable material. Modern owners summer cottages they prefer to use wood for the construction of small buildings that would allow them to take a break from the bustle of the city for at least some time. But many people prefer to live in such houses. all year round, which makes the insulation of a residential wooden house with outside under the mineral wool siding is extremely necessary. Heating in such structures is expensive, so the issue of building insulation is more than relevant.

What is mineral wool and how to make the right choice

Mineral wool

Mineral wool belongs to the category of insulation materials that are obtained by blowing a solid material in the form of fibers. This insulation has three types:

stone wool;
glass wool;
slag wool.

Stone wool

It is customary to use basalt for its manufacture. According to experts, this type of insulation has absorbed the best characteristics:

Basalt as the main raw material in the manufacture of insulation.
The substances contained in it prevent the material from taking a pointed shape.
When compressed, the plate remains rigid.

Simplicity technological process due to the use in the production of only additives and dolomite (basalt). It is a residual product of production, which significantly affects its cost.

Glass wool

For the production of the material, waste glass and some rocks, which are rich in silicates (silicon), are used. The characteristic features of the insulation include an elongated type of particles, which are 0.04-0.3 cm.

Peculiarities:

If you use a microscope, it will show that the shape of the particles is slightly tapered, which leads to the appearance of small scratches and irritation of the respiratory tract when handling the material.
Excellent adhesion of individual fibers to each other.

The parameters of this material are at the optimal level and when using it, no protective equipment is needed.

Slag

It is customary to use blast furnace slag as the main raw material. The particle size of this material is small due to the technology used for its production. The index of rigidity (in compression) is 0.015 MPa, which is the smallest among similar slabs and mats. In terms of thermal conductivity, slag wool is not inferior to other heaters. The laying technology is relatively simple, and in this regard, the popularity of this product among developers is extremely high. Often used in industry for steel smelting plants, mines, factories and pipelines. It can be used to insulate a plane with a slight slope or a horizontal surface.

How a wooden house is insulated

Thermal insulation of a wooden house with mineral wool

The surface of the walls of houses made of timber can be sheathed with siding. This technology is popular both on the territory of our state and the CIS countries. The climatic conditions are such that you simply cannot do without high-quality insulation of a wooden house. For this it is recommended to sheathe external walls at home with mineral wool and cover it with siding. This will properly protect the thermal insulation material from external factors.

To carry out the necessary manipulations, you will need the following tools and materials:

butyl (can be replaced with tape);
screwdriver;
puncher;
several sets of self-tapping screws;
dowels;
metal profile;
universal suspension;
construction brackets;
mineral wool.

First, you need to carry out the necessary preparatory work to be sent to clean up work surface and installing thereon a first layer consisting of a vapor barrier. A screwdriver or dowels are needed to secure the straight universal hanger to the wall. The vertical pitch of the profiles to be installed will be 0.5 m. Mineral wool is strung on ledges in the form of suspensions. There should be no gap between the plates.

For fixing square meter material will need at least 4 dowels. A membrane is laid on top of the insulation material. All its joints are glued with tape (butyl). For better fixing of the film, it is necessary to use dowels. Installation of metal profiles is carried out on suspensions. It should be screwed on on both sides with dowels of a smaller diameter. The cotton wool will be lightly pressed by the profile itself.

Procedure for insulating a wooden house from the outside for siding

Thermal insulation of a wooden house outside

Procedure:

Wall surface log house, it is necessary to treat it several times with antiseptic agents. The end of the house is processed with special care, since it is from there that the fungus begins to multiply. Such manipulations are carried out on a warm and clear day, since at the end of the manipulations, the surface will take several days in order to completely dry. Special attention paid to corners and lower crown the buildings.
The vapor-permeable material is attached to the wall surface with a construction stapler. It is worth paying attention to the fact that the glossy side of the material used should be directed towards the insulation. All joints are overlapped and glued with tape. A crate with a timber diameter equal to the thickness of the insulation used is attached to it. If you lay the material in a rasp, then the auxiliary fasteners are not needed.
Heat insulator mats should be placed between the bars, pressing them. If necessary, they can be slightly trimmed with a clerical knife. Fixing with slats will be needed if insulation material has an insufficient stiffness indicator and does not hold well inside the frame. The final anchoring is carried out with the help of anchor nails.
If you plan to lay several layers of heat-insulating material at the same time, then this should be done with an overlap in such a way that the first seams are not visible. All work aimed at insulating a house from a bar from the outside with mineral wool and without dew should be carried out in protective clothing using a respirator.
The membrane film is fixed over the insulation (during outside). The joints are overlapped and glued with tape.
Then you should proceed with the installation of the system forced ventilation frame. To do this, you will need bars that will help create the necessary gap between the insulation and the facade of the house (about 5 cm). Self-tapping screws are used to fasten the bars. Suspensions for the profile will only be needed if the walls are not even, which will allow you to independently adjust the gap to the frame.
Fastening is made based on the technology given by the manufacturer. As facing material timber, block house, metal profile, vinyl siding are used.

Thermal insulation of a house from a bar with mineral wool

Thermal insulation of a house with mineral wool

As insulation material wooden beams and at home in general will be used. The upcoming installation process should not cause difficulties, but you should prepare for its implementation in advance.

Dimensions of the crate. The cross-section of the used beams will be 50x50. But the thickness will directly depend on the number of layers of the installed thermal insulation material. If only one layer is mounted, then a 50x50 section will be more than enough. In the case of arranging two layers, the cross-section of the timber will be 50x100. You will need an antifungal solution, as well as sets of self-tapping screws, anchor screws and a waterproofing film.
Primary processing of the working surface. Before you start insulating a building with your own hands, you should treat the surface of the walls several times with an antifungal solution. This will help to avoid the early manifestation of the consequences of damage to the material by dampness. It will not be superfluous to treat the surface with fireproof impregnations.
Vapor barrier and waterproofing layer. The rough side of the material should be directed towards the wall, since it is it that is moisture-conductive. The glossy side will keep moisture out of the barrier to be installed. If done correctly, a dew and condensation free surface can be achieved in general. The film is fastened using a construction stapler, and the overlapped material (10-12 cm) is then glued with tape.
Installation of the lathing. To perform subsequent manipulations, you will need to create a crate. To begin with, the beads are attached to the corner of the house end-to-end with self-tapping screws. The distance between the rest of the elements must be exactly the same, and the material must be strictly in the vertical plane.
Laying mineral wool. The material is cut into pieces. To complete the following steps, you will need a set of anchor fasteners that will help fix the material to the wall. First you need to create several through holes, in which the anchors will be placed. After hammering, they should be wedged to hold the cotton more firmly.
Outer waterproofing layer. This stage involves re-fixing waterproofing material glossy side out. Thus, the condensate will be drained away from the insulation, which will help to significantly extend the service life of the materials used. A stapler is used to fix the film.

How to insulate the outside of a house from a log

Insulation of a log house outside

It is worth starting to insulate the walls of a log house only if all other manipulations aimed at insulating a wooden house, including the interfloor overlap, have already been performed. If the previous work did not bring the desired result, then you should immediately start taking action in order to avoid damage to the facade of the building. It is the outer walls that should be insulated, since this is due to natural characteristics the material used (wood), which is able to accumulate moisture and breathe. If you insulate the facade of a building, then dampness will not accumulate inside the premises, but will gradually go out into the street. Such manipulations can be carried out only after the end of the building shrinkage.

We make the facade ventilated

Ventilated facade

After the walls of a wooden house have been insulated from the inside with mineral wool, you can proceed to external work... You can insulate a house from logs by equipping a ventilated facade according to available technologies. Thus, the tree will not only retain its ability to "breathe", but also give off existing moisture. First of all, the surface is treated with solutions from fungal and fires. A crate is arranged on top, inside which insulation material will be placed. The insulation boards used are placed between the crate and tightly filled into the openings. You should go from top to bottom.

Often, the surface is not pre-leveled, but based on the features applicable technology, there should be no gaps between the surface and the material. In this case, all voids can be filled with insulation like "basalt" or jute.

A waterproofing membrane is attached on top. Next, you should install the crate on which you can place siding, block house or any other material. Thus, a small gap (5 cm) will remain between the facade and the membrane, which will serve as ventilation. For free circulation of air flows, it is necessary to take care of the air vents.

Log wall caulking

Insulation of the walls of a wooden house

Before proceeding with the insulation of the entire building, all external walls of the house should be pierced. First, you need to find all the cracks (an ordinary candle and calm weather will help to detect sources of drafts in living quarters). V winter period time should be taken to look for "bunnies" - places where frost forms due to heat leakage. Caulking should be done in the absence of rain. For this you will need:

roll insulation (hemp);
jute;
tow.

The material is pushed into the cracks and pushed as deep as possible inside with caulking.

Thermal insulation of a wooden house for siding

Procedure:

Thermal insulation of a wooden house under plaster

If you plan to lay the insulation under the plaster, then all the upcoming manipulations should be divided into several main stages.

There are only three of them:

Laying of heat-insulating material.
Reinforcement.
Application of decorative finishes.

First of all, the installation of a strip or basement profile is carried out, which will act as a guide for the first roll of mineral wool. With its help, you can adjust the required gap between the wall and the material to be laid. Also, the bar will prevent rodents from reaching the base material. The profiles will also prevent deformation of the plaster in the future and dock it at the seams. Next, a reinforcing mesh with a width of 20-30 cm is attached. Its lower edge is tucked right after the end of gluing the reinforcement to the mineral wool. Such actions will make the structure monolithic. For fixing, you will need a glue-reinforcing composition of the plaster.

For decorating mineral wool, several types of plaster can be used:

silicone-based;
acrylic;
mineral;
silicate.

After the layer of plaster has completely dried, you can paint its surface.

Internal wall insulation and dew point determination

Internal insulation walls

It is undesirable to carry out such manipulations in a wooden house, since thanks to physical properties natural wood, the existing dew point will move inside the living quarters. This will inevitably lead to stagnation of moisture and condensation on cold wood surfaces. However, if there is no other way out, or all other options have already been tried, then you should equip proper ventilation in the form of multiple gaps and vapor barrier.

The pie you create will look like this:

interior decoration;
ventilation gap no more than 3 cm;
vapor barrier layer;
insulation material;
waterproofing;
another ventilation gap;
wall of the house.

It is worth paying attention to the fact that the larger the layer of the used insulation, the smaller the difference will be needed in order for condensate to form again on wooden surface... For education necessary conditions ventilation, you will need to drill several vents (no more than a centimeter) at some distance from each other.

Conclusion

Completion of house insulation work

After completing the work aimed at insulating a wooden house with mineral wool, you can decorate the facade of the building using one of the many finishing materials... Block house, brick or siding is often used. It is also possible to opt for the creation of a hinged-type facade based on one of the finishing materials. The comfort and microclimate inside the living quarters will depend on the correctness of each of the stages of the upcoming work. In winter, the house should be dry and warm, and cool in summer. Only by monitoring the progress of work aimed at insulating a wooden house, you can be sure of the quality and durability of the result. Good luck in your endeavors.

Built several decades ago, they have already grown old and in the winter months they begin to let in the cold.

Errors when insulating a wooden house

That's why it is very important to exclude possible oversights, which regularly occur with unqualified insulation of wooden modern materials... Let's take a look at the most common ones.

Mistake # 1. Thermal insulation of a log house without inspecting the condition of the wood

As a rule, they are already insulated by the "survivors" log cabins... On the one hand, it is technologically convenient: the log house has finally settled down and the dimensions of the structure remain unchanged. However, the past years could not but leave traces on biologically living material -.

Therefore, before the planned insulation, which implies that there will be no access to the logs for many years, it is necessary carefully examine all crowns and discard defective fragments... If a wood-devouring one is wound up in the logs, I will make a cautious assumption that it is no longer advisable to insulate the house. A cardinal medicine for such a case, except for a weekly forty-degree frost, has not yet been invented. Read more about this issue in the articles: Good wood should soak with fire-fighting and antiseptic composition and dry thoroughly... It is a mistake to carry out insulation on raw wood.

Mistake # 2. Lack of attention to caulk

Traditional caulking is performed, strictly speaking, not to insulate the log house, but to exclude blowing it, which ultimately affects the preservation of heat in the house.

Deciding to insulate log facades, pay attention to the condition of caulking on all crowns... This operation should not be dismissed. Perhaps it is thanks to 2-3 defects of this natural insulator that your house is cold in winter.

At the beginning of 2016, a reader contacted the editorial office with a request to help with insulation in a modern way. Word by word, it turned out that the cunning birds had long ago pulled the caulk fibers from its log house onto their nests.

It seems that after the clarification of this fact, the craving for total warming of our dear reader has somewhat weakened.

Without plunging into the basics of building heat engineering and without delving into the meaning of the obscure phrase "" (which is the basis for choosing a location), take the craft postulate on faith: insulation of structures is carried out from the outside. This installation improves the operation of the wall carrier material(tree crowns), and the insulation itself. Otherwise, both the insulation and the wood of the logs will get wet from the humid vapors that are inevitably found in the atmosphere of human habitation. Of course, we do not strive for this at all. You can read more about the peculiarities of insulation of the outer walls of a wooden house in the section of the article of the same name.

Mistake # 4. Rough choice of thermal insulation material

Construction markets are literally and figuratively overwhelmed with a variety of heat insulators.

However, if we introduce a strict systematization into this abundance, it turns out that everything dominates 3 types of materials suitable for log cabins... These are heaters:

from ,
glass wool,
- cellular and extruded.

Let's talk about the latter first. This is an excellent heat insulator, which has better thermal insulation qualities than the first and second. It practically does not absorb moisture and does not allow water vapor to pass through. It would seem that there is nothing more to dream of. However, the biggest "but" is that when in contact with an open fire, that is, when, the expanded polystyrene does not exactly burn, but only melts, but with the release of truly dangerous gaseous chemical compounds... For those readers who take these words lightly, I recommend recalling the tragedy in the Permian "Lame Horse", which claimed a hundred and fifty lives due to the fact that the combustion products of the insulation got into the lungs of the visitors of this "pub".

I do not mind using this material, but I vote with both hands for its thoughtful use. There, for example, where the fire will never reach - in the foundation, in the plinth, in the blind area. Here he is truly worthless.

Choosing between glass wool and mineral wool is more difficult. Both are perfect for insulating a log house. You will learn about which thermal insulation materials are preferable from a safety point of view from the article.

Mistake # 5. Careless handling and storage of material

Thermal insulation materials must be dry... Only in this case they "keep" warm. And if the material gets wet, then its heat-insulating ability drops dramatically.

Remember the common "kitchen" situation: with what potholder do you grab the metal handle of a hot frying pan - a dry cloth or a damp / wet one? I am sure that after a moment's thought, you will choose the dry option. So the insulation must always be dry. In factories, during production, it is packaged in packaging (often in shrink-wrap) film and is sufficiently well protected from climatic moisture. But it is worth removing the film ... Therefore:

Unpack the insulation one day before use. and always under a canopy, or even better - in a house to be insulated.
After fixing the insulation on the wall go straight to its cladding plastering or protective panels (and others).
Do not leave the heaters open for a long time, risking soaking them "to the skin" by the summer slanting rains.

Mistake # 6. Choosing flexible mats instead of rigid slabs

On construction market you can find 2 options thermal insulation materials- flexible mats and rigid slabs. At first glance, these are exactly the same materials. So what to choose for facade insulation?

If you decide to opt for mats, then you will be mistaken, since over the years, the insulation located in an upright position begins to sag here and there, forming cracks into which it rushes cold air, - the same ones that disavow all consumer charm modern heaters.

Rigid slabs keep their dimensions unchanged throughout their entire service life. It is quite possible to walk on the slabs laid on the roof structure without losing the quality of thermal insulation.

Why, then, are flexible mats produced? - They are irreplaceable with insulation horizontal surfaces - underground space and floor slabs... There, in principle, they cannot sag and form gaps for the consumption of heat.

Mistake # 7. Incorrect determination of the thickness of the thermal insulation layer

To the question: “How thick should thermal insulation layer? " you will find a reasoned answer in a recently published article.

Here one can only confirm that with thermal insulation of a log house, two layers of material with a thickness of 50 mm will be enough laid one on top of the other. I'll make a reservation that two layers are enough for the climatic conditions of central Russia. In the North, three layers of insulation will have to be laid on a wooden wall, and in the southern regions it will be possible to restrict oneself to one.

In conclusion, I would like to cite a photograph of a truly unique structure.

What is its originality? The house was built at the end of the 19th century. The house is a log house, but the logs, united by horizontal dowels, are installed vertically. It was insulated in the spring of 2016 with mineral wool insulation (100 mm) and lined with chipboard panels. A entry group made of monolithic reinforced concrete. Truly, on a tiny spot of development, technologies from three different centuries have merged.

In the harsh winters and severe frosts wooden house needs insulation - without it, create inside comfortable conditions in the cold season it is difficult. Also, thermal insulation will reduce heating costs. This article will tell you how to properly insulate a wooden house with mineral wool for siding.

Why has mineral wool become so popular insulation for private construction? The answer to this question is simple - due to the combination of its advantages, this material surpasses other insulation materials in one way or another.

Mineral wool does not burn. It can only melt, and only with very high temperatures... Therefore, this insulation is better suited for buildings made of wooden beams or logs than combustible foam.
Mineral wool is easy to use - it does not require the use of special equipment like ecowool. The process of its installation is simple - I took it out of the package, cut it (if necessary), laid it down, fixed it with dowels or glue.
Mineral wool does not shrink over time and is not attractive to rodents, insects, mildew and mildew. In addition, it is able to retain its properties for several decades.
And like any good insulation, mineral wool has extremely low values of thermal conductivity - 0.03-0.047 W / (m * K), depending on the grade of the material and the outside temperature.

Choice of mineral wool

When you enter a hardware store, you will see many types of mineral wool with different characteristics... The question arises: what characteristics should a material have that is suitable for insulating a house from the outside?

Type - stone or basalt wool. Slag wool or glass wool - not the best choice for the walls of a residential building. The reasons are high alkalinity and the content of substances that are harmful to humans (especially slag wool).
Density - from 80 kg / m3 and more. This is due to the fact that the laid material is under heavy stress. And so that under their influence the insulation does not crumple, does not lose its shape and thermal insulation qualities, it must be dense enough.
Dimensions - most mineral wool for external wall insulation is sold in slabs with a length and width of 1200 x 600 millimeters. The thickness varies and can be from 50 to 150 millimeters.
Since the insulation is carried out outside, the mineral wool must be hydrophobic. By absorbing water, this insulation loses its thermal insulation properties by 50-70%. It should be borne in mind that outside high humidity and its sharp drops are not at all uncommon. Therefore, the ability not to absorb moisture and condensation is very important for mineral wool. However, this is not enough, therefore, when insulating the walls of a wooden house, take care of high-quality hydro and vapor barrier.

Separately, it is worth discussing the issue of the thickness of the heat-insulating layer. The tree itself has some properties of insulation, and therefore it does not require such a large layer of mineral wool as for a building made of concrete or sand-lime brick... For example, in conditions of middle latitudes for a wooden house with a wall thickness of 15 centimeters, an insulation layer of 10 centimeters would be optimal. If the walls are even thicker, 20 centimeters, then the required layer of mineral wool will be half as much.

Of course, if you live in a region with a harsh continental climate and severe frosts, then the thickness of the wall insulation should be higher. And if sheets of mineral wool 50 or 100 millimeters thick are not enough for thermal insulation, they need to be laid in two layers.

The table below shows the materials that meet the requirements and are suitable for wall insulation.

Length and width, mm	Thickness, mm	Density, kg / m3	Thermal conductivity, W / m * K	Price for 1 m3, rub.
1200 to 600	100	80	0,035	3052
1200 to 600		72-88	0,036	3100
1200 to 600	100	120	0,04	3450
1200 to 600	100	100	0,037	6700

Prices for mineral wool

Tools and materials

Below is a list of everything that is needed to insulate a wooden house with mineral wool for siding.

Mineral wool - it is obvious that without it there can be no talk of any warming. Before you go to the hardware store, take measurements of the area of all the walls of the house and subtract the area of all windows and doors from the resulting figure. Dividing the result by the area of one sheet (for a sheet of 1200 x 600 mm, this is 0.72 m2) of mineral wool, you will find out how much you need to buy. If you plan to insulate in two layers, multiply the resulting number by two.
Frame material - it can be either wooden bar section 50 by 50 mm, or a steel profile similar in properties. You may also need U-shaped metal hangers. What they are for and how they are used will be discussed below.
Antiseptic impregnation. When dealing with wood, you must always protect it from the effects of fungus, mold and insects.
Vapor barrier membrane - used to prevent the insulation from absorbing condensation on the walls of the house. In addition, such films are used as wind protection. Membranes are interesting in that while protecting mineral wool from moisture and wind, they nevertheless allow it to "breathe".
Acrylic adhesive tape for bonding vapor barrier sheets. Construction brackets are used to attach vapor barrier to the wall.
Facade dowels with "umbrellas", also known as disc dowels, are fasteners for mineral wool.
Galvanized nails - for fastening the battens to the wall and connecting its elements to each other. If the frame is made of a steel profile, the nails are replaced with self-tapping screws, and the hammer with a screwdriver.
Tape measure, pencil and level - for measuring distances and quality control of work.
Rotary hammer and construction stapler- for the installation of thermal insulation and lathing.
Hacksaw or electric jigsaw- for working with wooden beams.

There are two ways to insulate a residential building using mineral wool - frame and frameless. Both methods are discussed below.

Prices for popular models of rotary hammers

Perforators

Frame house insulation with siding

In the first method of installing thermal insulation, a frame made of a wooden bar or a steel profile is first mounted on the wall, then a heater is placed between its elements. The process ends with the installation of external lathing and siding. Now let's take a closer look at the method.

First step- surface preparation. Slots and gaps in wooden walls sealed and insulated, the walls themselves are cleaned of dust, debris and residues old finish if any. Also, protruding elements are dismantled: pipes, shutters, window sills, and so on.

Second phase... The walls are treated with antiseptics, protecting them from decay and fungus.

Stage three. With the help of construction brackets, they are attached to the walls vapor barrier film... Membrane sheets are overlapped with each other by 10-15 centimeters, the seams are carefully glued with acrylic tape.

Fourth stage- installation of the frame. The timber (pre-treated with an antiseptic) or profile is installed vertically, with an interval (distance between elements) along the width of the mineral wool slab. The timber is fastened to the wall with nails, and the profile - with self-tapping screws.

Fifth stage. Insulation sheets are placed in the space between the frame elements. The insulation is fastened to the wall using 4-6 disc dowels. If gaps or gaps remain, they should be sealed with pieces of mineral wool.

Sixth stage. A vapor barrier film is laid on top of the frame and insulation. As before, the joints are overlapped and taped.

Seventh stage. A new sheathing layer is attached to the frame, which will be used to create a ventilated facade and as a frame for siding. In this case, it is permissible to use a small section bar.

Important! If two layers of insulation are planned, then the second frame is mounted perpendicular to the first and relative to the siding. For example, if the walls are finished with siding horizontally, then the beams of the first frame should also be laid. And the bars of the second layer of insulation should be located perpendicular to them, that is, vertically.

Prices for thermal insulation materials

Thermal insulation materials

Video - Insulation of external walls with siding

Frameless insulation with mineral wool for siding

Unlike the method outlined above, this method does not provide for the installation of a frame for thermal insulation, and mineral wool covers almost the entire surface of the wall. Thus, the problem with the "bridges" of cold is solved, the elements of the sheathing in frame method wall insulation.

Step 1. The walls of the house should be prepared for insulation - cleaned of debris, dirt and dust, dismantle everything that could interfere with the process and seal the cracks and grooves with tow or pieces of mineral wool.

Step 2. The cleaned surface of the walls is carefully treated with an antiseptic. If a wooden beam is used as a crate, it also undergoes processing.

Step 3. As for the first method, a vapor barrier membrane is attached to the wall with brackets.

Step 4. Next, universal U-shaped hangers are attached to the wall. In the horizontal plane, the distance between them should be less than or equal to the width of the mineral wool slab. In the vertical plane, the distance between the suspensions is 50-60 centimeters. They are mounted on dowels.

Step 5. Now you need to cover the walls with mineral wool. For this method, you need to be especially careful to ensure that there are no large gaps and crevices through which heat will leave in winter. They must be sealed with pieces of mineral wool.

Step 6. The next stage is external vapor barrier and wind protection. The rules for laying the membrane are the same as last time - overlapping joints, seams are sealed with acrylic adhesive tape.

Step 7. Outside, a lathing made of a steel profile or a wooden bar is attached to the suspensions. It should press the mineral wool slabs against the wall and ensure ventilation gap between them and the siding. With the help of a level, make sure that the lathing is installed evenly.

Important! When insulating in two layers, the slabs of the second layer are positioned so that they overlap the joints of the slabs of the previous layer. This rule is mandatory for both wireframe and frameless ways installation of thermal insulation.

It can be noted that insulating a wooden house with mineral wool for siding is a relatively simple matter and does not require the use of expensive materials or complex tools, and therefore it is within the power of every homeowner. By carefully following the instructions, you will receive durable and high-quality thermal insulation that will last you 25-30 years.

Video - Insulation of the facade for siding

Video - Installation of mineral wool

In this article, I want to tell you about how to independently insulate a house with mineral wool. Next, we will take a closer look at all the nuances of this work at each of its four main stages.

Installation procedure

Insulation of the house outside for siding can be roughly divided into five steps:

Step 1: preparing materials

First of all, you need to decide on the type of insulation.

The fact is that mineral wool differs in several ways:

the type of raw material from which it is made - I will not talk about all existing types mineral wool. The only thing, I note that it is best to use basalt wool, since it has the highest performance... In addition, it is the most environmentally friendly.
True, its price is the highest - it starts from 1500-2000 rubles per cubic meter;
thickness - the choice depends on the thickness and material of the walls, as well as the region in which you live. You can find out about the calculation of the thickness of the insulation from other articles on our portal dedicated to this topic;
density - since mineral wool in our case will not be subjected to any loads, it is more expedient to use a material with a low density - 40-50 kg / m3. Such mineral wool has a lower thermal conductivity than a similar one with a higher density..

Minvata is commercially available as roll material, and in the form of plates (mats). It is more convenient to insulate under siding with mineral wool in the form of mats.

In addition to mineral wool, it is necessary to prepare other building materials:

parts for assembling the frame - these can be metal profiles or wooden beams. You will also need hangers or metal corners to attach the frame to the wall;
vapor barrier membrane;
antiseptic impregnation for wood, if it is planned to insulate a wooden house from the outside.

In addition, you should prepare the siding itself, as well as additional elements(slopes, corners, ebb, etc.).

Step 2: preparing the facade

Before insulating housing, you must perform the following preparatory work:

examine the facade. If you notice hanging parts on the surface of the wall, be it an antenna or a visor, they must be dismantled. As a result, there should not be any elements that could interfere with the installation of the insulation;
if the facade contains areas with peeling finishes, they must also be disposed of;

before insulating a wooden house for siding, the walls must be treated with an antiseptic impregnation;

if the house is a log or, be sure to insulate the mezhventsovye slots. They can be filled with tow, linen tape or other suitable material.

You can start insulating and finishing a wooden house only after it shrinks, i.e. a year and a half after construction.

Step 3: insulation and assembly of the frame

The next step, the most difficult and responsible one, is the insulation of the house and the installation of the frame. The effectiveness of thermal insulation and the durability of the finish depend on it, as well as how smooth the walls of the facade turn out to be.

Installation technology metal frame looks like that:

mark the walls - vertical lines in 50 cm increments, starting from the corners;
then on the vertical lines you need to mark the location of the suspensions. The vertical distance between them should be 50 cm;

now you need to attach suspensions according to the marking. It is advisable to use special front hangers, as they are more durable. However, in the absence of such, it is possible to establish and conventional fasteners, which are intended for assembly under drywall.
If the walls are wooden, you can attach the hangers to them with self-tapping screws. For concrete or brick walls you need to use dowel-nails;

after installing the suspensions, the walls are insulated with mineral wool. To do this, make cuts in the mats and put them on the hangers, as shown in the photo above;
additionally fix the mats to the hangers using dowel-nails. To do this, pre-drill the holes, then insert a dowel into the hole and drive a special nail into it.

Position the insulation so that the boards fit snugly against each other. If cracks do arise, they need to be filled with scraps of mineral wool;

on top of the mineral wool, a vapor barrier film should be attached. It can also be fixed with dowel-nails;

now you need to install the racks with your own hands, fixing them on the hangers. To make the walls even, they must be placed in the same vertical plane.... To do this, first install the extreme posts, maintaining the same distance from the wall, i.e. insulation.

Then pull the twine between the extreme posts, and align the intermediate posts along them like beacons.

In this way, install racks on all walls of the building;

to increase the strength of the frame, install jumpers between the posts in a checkerboard pattern. Be sure to install them above and below window openings, as well as above doorways.

Mineral wool villi on skin can cause irritation. Therefore, work with the material should be done with gloves.

Insulation of the walls of the house using timber frame is performed in a slightly different way:

as in the previous case, start by marking the walls. Keep in mind that the racks must be positioned at such a distance that the mats fit snugly into the space between them;

then secure the beams to the walls using the metal corners. In order for the frame to be located in the same vertical plane, install the racks as described above, i.e. using taut twines;
after installing the racks, the thermal insulation of the house is being installed - the mats are inserted into the space between the racks. For reliability, fix each plate with at least one or two dowels;

if necessary, you can place a second layer of mineral mats. To do this, you need to attach the bars to the racks, placing them across, as shown in the diagram above;

then attach a vapor barrier membrane to the frame, for example, with a stapler;
now you need to fix the counter-lattice on the uneven bars. To mount it, use strips of about two centimeters.

This completes the installation of the insulation.

Step 4: installing the siding

The final stage is the installation of siding.

This work is carried out in the following sequence:

if the facade has a protruding base, it is necessary to install an ebb over it, securing it with self-tapping screws. In the process of attaching the ebb, be sure to use a level so that it is horizontal;
then secure the starter bar over the ebb. Like the ebb, it should be horizontal;

then you need to attach to the corners with self-tapping screws corner profiles in an upright position;
slopes should be installed along the perimeter of window openings. These additional elements are usually purchased complete with siding;

now you can start installing the siding itself. The panels of the first row are connected in a hook with the starting bar and are fixed from above with self-tapping screws. The ends of the outer panels are inserted into the corner profiles;

the second row will be hooked up with the first, and is also fixed with self-tapping screws;
before fixing the last row of siding on the facade, you need to install the finishing profile;
then join the panels of the last row with the penultimate ones, and tuck them into the finishing strip.

This completes the work.

Output

Now that you have familiarized yourself with all the nuances of house insulation with mineral wool, this work will not cause you any difficulties. The only thing is, watch another video in this article to consolidate the information received. You can also contact me with questions you are interested in regarding this topic in the comments, and I will definitely answer you.