How to insert an interior door. Interior door installation technology

Every owner wants to save money on building a house or renovating an apartment. Therefore, more and more homeowners tend to do many repair and construction work on their own. Do-it-yourself installation of interior doors will help to save a lot.

There is nothing difficult in these works even for a novice master. You just need to carefully study the step-by-step instructions and watch the video.

How to install interior doors made of natural wood or MDF? These doors are in high demand due to good quality at an acceptable cost.

There is a certain order of actions:

Unpack the purchased door set and door frames. Everything must be done carefully so as not to damage the structure.
Compose door frame. The kit for this includes 3 components and 1 tie bar, which will be used for short-term fixation.

It is more convenient to assemble on a flat floor, laying a soft substrate. Gable panels have inserts (plastic inserts). They are hammered into special grooves. They must be carefully knocked out so as not to damage the loot. Use wood blocks for this, since it is impossible to knock on fragile plastic inserts with a hammer.

Fasten all parts of the door fixed base according to the “groove to groove” scheme, giving it a U-shape. Must comply strict geometry, inaccuracies during assembly should not be allowed. Fasten the frame with inserts previously knocked out of the grooves, hammering them into the formed holes. Work with a hammer, but carefully.

If the parts of the box have shifted when the inserts are hammered in, then you need to correctly align the case with a hammer, placing a wooden plank.

Think about the direction of opening the doors. It all depends on the layout.

Advice! In the bathroom, pantry, and closet, outward-opening doors are best, as an inward-opening door will reduce an already small space. Doors in large rooms(living room, bedroom, office), on the contrary, should be made to open inward, otherwise the door leaf will interfere in the aisles and hallway.
In the future, you will need some tools for work:

drill;
screwdriver;
end saw and chisel;
milling head;
building level;
dowels, tape measure and mounting foam.

Having collected the top of the box, you need to go to the lower zone. A tightening plate from the purchased set will come in handy, with which to fix the width of the door frame along the bottom. Screw it with screws in those areas that will later be embedded in the wall. Screw the screws at an angle, starting work not from the very edge, otherwise you can easily split the bar.
Fit the hole to size doorway. Usually the length of factory doors is 5–6 cm longer than standard openings. After measuring the opening, cut the bottom of the box with a miter saw.

When determining the size of the doorway, you need to take into account the height of the threshold (if any) or its absence (when an interior door without a threshold is provided).
For fitting, insert the door leaf into the assembled box lying on the floor without removing the cellophane from it. It is enough just to cut it off in the area of the handles and the lock.
Mount the finished box, fitted in all respects, into the opening and using building level set it up perfectly. Screw the frame to the opening with wood screws, screwing them at an angle in those areas that will then be closed with foam and door trim.

If doorway not made of wood or drywall sheets, where there are wooden blocks, then for fastening you will have to use dowels or similar fastening materials.
Cannot be fixed door frame through the front side, so as not to spoil it appearance and not complicate the work (opening / closing) of the door over time.
Foam the crevices between the opening and the box later using dry finishing mixes, perform a slope at this place.
While the foam hardens, you can start installing hinges and handles on the moving part of the door, as well as inserting the lock. Mark a place for the castle on the pediment and outline the outline according to its shape. With a router saw, carefully remove the top wood layer until the face of the lock is even with the door leaf.

For the inside of the lock, use a drill with a suitable drill to make a deeper recess.
Fix the lock with the fasteners provided in the set, harmonious in color and style with locks, hinges, door, plugs and door handles. To do this, insert the core of the lock into the drilled socket, put handles on it on both sides and clamp everything with fasteners.
The time has come to install the loops, the pins of which should look up, after which the canvas is put on. Work like a lock. Make sure that the loops are on the same level with the canvas.
Return to the loot, mark and hang the hinges, determine the place where the lock enters, make a hole with a chisel and fix the plug.
Hang the door leaf.

Wherever drilled, cut and sawn wood mass, it is necessary to cover its bare places with paint in a general tone or varnish. This will not only improve the appearance, but also preserve the wooden surface.
You can easily install if you want. interior door on one's own.
Factory door sets are made to a typical wall thickness of about 7–8 cm for city apartments. Why do homeowners, where the walls are thicker, have to adapt to industrial sizes
With a wall thickness of 25 cm and above, openings not covered door jamb, close up with plaster, plastic or plasterboard slopes. Up to 25 cm, you can install interior doors with extensions, which is much faster and easier.
Dobor (additional boards) is a box expander, which, together with the casing, plays an aesthetic role, hiding uneven surfaces, making the door much stronger and preventing it from warping.
It is made from grooved and edged board for thick walls or from aircraft plywood (subsequently decorated with self-adhesive film) for very thick walls. Compiled from 3 constituent parts, copies the letter P in shape and is attached (you can use PVA glue):
to the door frame;
to the wall in the opening zone;
on a vertical beam between the extension and the opening.

Benefits of add-ons:
speed of assembly and installation door block;
lack of "wet" finishing works, which are undesirable for wood;
extending the life of doors.

Briefly about loops. Factory products are often sold with hinges already attached. Then the issue of installing loops is not the key. But sometimes you have to install them yourself. This is where many people think about whether to use classic loops or butterflies.
Butterfly loop from the category of non-cut elements, i.e. when using it, you do not need to cut grooves. This is a plus.
Attention! But this design does not make it possible to quickly remove the doors if necessary. You will have to unscrew the loops, and this is inconvenient during repair work or when bringing furniture in or out.

Butterflies are easy to install, however, when choosing this type of hinge, you need to know: even a minimal deviation due to a possible defect in the door leaf or the hinge itself will lead to the fact that the doors will not close tightly. That is why you need to be extremely careful when working with butterflies.
Decide which hinges to install, the owner. Butterflies are more suitable for light doors, and for massive heavy doors it is better to choose classic version, because it provides a stronger connection, so that classic hinges are able to hold more weight.
Installation of sliding interior doors
IN Lately not ordinary swing interior doors are in great demand, but sliding ones (slider), which slide along the rails or ride to the side (into the opening, pencil case, wall) on rollers.
They are of two types:
a sliding accordion door, consisting of small plastic or wooden slats, which, when easily moved, save space;
a door built into a pencil case or a wall, working according to the wardrobe technology.

On a note! Inexpensive accordion doors are not practical. TO sliding doors any modification is usually accompanied by step-by-step instructions from the manufacturer for their assembly.

Advantages of sliding doors:
custom design:
more space in the room for furniture;
security;
do not open spontaneously in drafts.

The disadvantages include:
poor noise and sound insulation, as well as the penetration of odors, but this can be easily eliminated by installing a felt gasket on the pediment;
the difficulty in repairing it and in caring for the surface where the door moves;
the high cost of installation, but if the installation of sliding interior doors is done by hand, then the costs are practically no higher than when setting up swing doors.

Two-leaf interior doors
IN large apartments or houses where there is a lot of space, the owners often prefer double doors between rooms (hinged or sliding). Installation double doors any version is also simple, but has its own specifics.
Set the crossbar (espagnolette) before inserting the loops. On each leaf, cut the hinges into the door itself and into the side post. Remove the fragment made earlier.
Hang the first door on the hinges, aligning it in level, as with the installation of a single-leaf hinged door. After that, carefully hang the second one, adjusting it in accordance with the first one, mark the place for the second beam and fix it with self-tapping screws.
After making sure that both sashes are level relative to each other, foam the seams. When solidified, the foam increases many times in volume, so it is better to use foam with a low expansion coefficient.
Before inserting the handles, fix the striker mating plate in the door frame.
The flashing (embossed profile rail) is nailed, smeared initially with hot-melt adhesive for greater strength, and platbands are installed.

Installing interior doors with your own hands is not difficult. It is important to consistently perform all installation steps.

Repairs in the house will have an unfinished look without the installation of such an interior element as doors. They protect the living space from external negative factors, contribute to heat and sound insulation, bring coziness and comfort. Ordinary, at first glance, they differ in material, shape, color, design, have many classifications and types. Despite their differences, all doors require certain knowledge and skills to install them. This is a very painstaking and precise work for a team of two people. Despite the complexity of the work, installing doors with your own hands is quite within the power of anyone who skillfully handles the tool. The main thing is to do everything gradually, measuredly, without haste, observing the rules for installing doors.

Measurements, selection, purchase of doors.
Preparing the opening for installation new door.
Installation of hinges and lock on the door leaf.
Assembly door frame.
Installation of additional elements.
Fastening the door frame in the doorway.
Connecting the door leaf to the frame.
Fixing the structure with polyurethane foam.
Fastening fittings and platbands.

To perform the work you will need a certain tool:

hammer;
chisels 16 and 20 mm;
roulette;
crowbar;
level;
screwdriver and screwdriver;
wood saw with fine teeth;
miter box;
drill and perforator;
if possible, a milling machine, circular.

Materials for door installation:

door leaf and door frame;
door fittings (handles, hinges, locks);
mounting foam;
wedges;
nails, screws and dowels.

Plastered and prepared door slopes

Before you install the door, you should prepare the installation site. If there is an old door, then we will dismantle it. To do this, with the help of a crowbar, avoiding strong and abrupt movements, we first remove the trim. Carefully lift and remove the old door leaf from the hinges. With the help of the same crowbar, we dismantle the door frame, to facilitate the process, we file the frame in several places with a hacksaw. Quite often in houses, the door frame was cemented. And to take it out, you have to break the cement with a hammer.

To facilitate the installation of the door, the slopes can be leveled and plastered. At the end of the preparation, we clean the doorway from construction debris. If the doorway has never been used, then you can immediately start measuring it.

Taking measurements, choosing, buying

To purchase the desired door, you will need dimensions in height and width, as well as the dimensions of the slopes of the doorway. Since in most cases the doorway has uneven edges, you should take measurements in several places and choose smallest size.

Laying flooring for correct installation boxes

Important! When taking measurements, you should take into account the gap between the door frame and the doorway. It should be 10-15 mm. Installation of doors is recommended to be done after laying floor covering, if there is none yet, then the dimensions should include the height of the floor covering and the gap between the floor and the door. For a more visual measurement, you can put parts of the floor covering in the doorway. This is necessary in order to know the exact level of the floor, the free movement of the door depends on it. The gap between the door and the floor is usually 10 mm.

Now that the old doors have been dismantled, dimensions have been taken, and the slopes have been leveled and puttied, you can order doors. Typically, doors are standard sizes, but if necessary, you can do individual order based on the dimensions of the doorway.

To choose the right right doors, you need to know their types and purpose. For installation in the house, you should pay attention to the entrance, interior and, if necessary, kitchen doors.

We also choose according to the opening method. The most popular option is swing doors. Doors are made using approximately the same technology - this is strapping and internal filling. The power structure or skeleton of the door, where the lock is inserted and the hinges are attached, is sheathed with fiberboard, MDF or other material, and the internal space is filled.

There are several designs of doors - solid, paneled and smooth.

smooth doors, they are also panel doors, can be made with an outer layer of MDF and fiberboard, sometimes such doors are sheathed with plastic. They are usually painted, veneered or laminated. The price of such doors varies depending on the materials and method of sheathing. The most practical and affordable are the doors sheathed with laminate. Painted doors can be both cheap and expensive. It all depends on the type of material and the method of painting. The most expensive are the doors lined with natural veneer.

Paneled doors stand out for their open design and the presence of drawings, patterned carvings and stained glass windows. Such doors can be filled with glass, carved panels, and other materials. They are made from a solid array of precious woods or combined materials. Prices for panel doors depend on the type of materials. The cheapest and most affordable are made from soft woods, as well as from combined materials (MDF, HDF).

Solid wood doors made from precious woods. This affects primarily their price and weight, they are very high. The doors are covered with varnishes and various impregnations, thus they are well protected from damage by insects, fungi and mold.

Having selected the desired doors and received them, we proceed to phased installation doors.

After the purchase, we unpack the door leaf, platbands, door frame, extensions, fittings. We carefully check everything for cracks, chips or other damage. As long as the lock, hinges or other door fittings are not embedded, the doors can be returned to the manufacturer.

Preparation of places for fastening the lock and hinges

Installing the door leaf on the floor for easy cutting with a cutter

Lock hole

Before assembling the door frame, mark and select with a cutter or chisel the place where the hinges and the lock are attached to door leaf and vertical stand. To do this, we install the door leaf in a vertical position on the wide side in special stands. In order not to damage the canvas, inner side coasters upholstered in fabric. We attach the lock and mark the place of its installation with a pencil. To make it convenient to use the lock, we install it at a height of 900 mm from the floor. To install the hinges, we measure 200 mm from the lower and upper edges of the door. We attach the loops and outline the place for milling. Via hand cutter or chisels, we choose the excess so that the hinges and the lock lie flush. We put them back and drill holes for self-tapping screws with a drill.

Finally, we apply the vertical post to the door leaf in such a way that there is a gap of 2-3 mm between the horizontal crossbar of the door frame and the door leaf. We mark the place where the hinges are attached and the place for the tongue of the lock and select the excess using a milling machine or chisel. Attach hinges and drill holes for self-tapping screws.

Important! Places for a lock and loops after sampling with a cutter or chisel must be varnished. In this simple way, the tree will be protected from moisture. It should be remembered that entrance and heavy doors are mounted on three hinges, and two hinges will be enough for interior doors.

Hinge and lock installation

When the places for the lock and hinges are selected by the cutter, you can proceed with their installation.

With loops, things are simple. They just need to be screwed to the door leaf.

mortise lock

Installing a lock, on the other hand, will require some effort. In order for the lock to become correct, it is applied to the side of the door and, as a stencil, holes for handles, valves and fasteners are marked. Using a cutter or chisel, we select a place for the lock to the desired depth. Then we put it in place and fasten it.

Important! When choosing a lock, you should take into account the width of the door bar. The depth of the hole for the lock should not exceed 1/3 of its width, otherwise deformation of the door leaf cannot be avoided.

Starting to collect the door frame, we measure the height of the vertical racks and cut them with a miter box. Horizontal bars are made to the size of the door leaf.

Since the collection of the box requires a large free space, the collection process itself is carried out on the floor. In order not to accidentally damage the door frame on the floor, we put two or three wooden slats for the entire length of the door leaf.

We attach the horizontal crossbar to the racks. The joints can be lightly tapped with a hammer to better connection, and with the help of a screwdriver we fix the box, screwing the screws into corner connections.

Important! There are doors with a ready-assembled door frame. The installation of these doors is very simple. In this case, the door frame is simply fitted into the doorway and fixed in it.

Fastening of additional parts

If the width of the door is a few centimeters less door slope, add-ons should be installed. You can do without installing them, but then you will have to completely make slopes, and over time chips and dirt appear on them. Therefore, the installation of extensions in such cases is the most best way out out of the situation.

As extensions, strips of the same color as the door are used, with a thickness of 8 to 12 mm. When fixed, they form a small portal, with edges matching the edges of the wall.

Installation of the add-on is carried out as follows. Using a cutter or chisel, a quarter of 10x10 mm or 8x8 mm is selected in the door frame, depending on the thickness of the trim strips. We do this along the entire outer contour of the door frame. We cut the vertical slats of the extension along the height of the box, as well as the horizontal slat of the extension. We install the door frame in place and fix it, then we install the trim strips in the trimmed quarters. We attach the planks to the slope with dowels and self-tapping screws.

Installation of the door frame in the opening

Having completed the assembly of the door frame, we proceed to install it in the doorway.

Fixing the door frame with wedges from above

We put the box inside the opening and fix it with wedges, 2-3 wedges for each rack and 2 for the crossbar. Align the door frame vertically and horizontally. You can adjust the level of inclination with light strokes on the wedges. Now you can fix the box. To do this, we drill holes in the rack and wall with a drill or puncher. It remains to put the dowels and fasten the box with self-tapping screws.

Important! Wedges are best made from wood of the same density as the door frame.

Hanging door leaf

After installing the box, we proceed to hanging the door. First of all, we fasten the loops to the previously prepared places. To do this, they usually use the so-called card (plate) detachable hinges with a removable rod or a rod embedded in a hinge. There are also one-piece hinges, but they are used less frequently. In the case of a hinged rod, the door leaf can be installed or removed by just gently lifting it to a small height of the rod. If the design of the door frame does not allow lifting the doors, one-piece hinges or hinges with a removable rod are used. To install one-piece hinges, simply fix them on the box, and then screw them to the door leaf. To install or remove a door leaf from hinges with a removable rod, you must remove the rod from the hinge and then insert it back.

Now that the hinges are hung, you can put the door leaf in place. It is best to do this together, when one person holds the doors in the air, and the second fixes the one-piece hinges with self-tapping screws or directs them into place in the case of collapsible hinges.

Important! When choosing hinges, you should pay attention to which direction the doors will open.

We fill the gap between the doorway and the frame with mounting foam, which increases the heat and sound insulation of the doorway. This material allows you to fill all the small cracks and crevices. The foam is easy to work with and easy to apply to any surface, and thanks to its astringent properties, the structure will be stronger.

Before filling the gap between the doorway and the door frame, the door frame should be protected from foam accidentally falling on it. To protect the box, it is pasted over with a film or masking tape. If, nevertheless, the foam has got on the door frame, then fresh foam can be cleaned with any alcohol-containing solution or solvent. But the hardened foam can only be removed mechanically, which is fraught with scratches and scuffs.

Mounting foam has the ability to increase in size from 50% to 250%, which can lead to deformation of the door frame. To prevent this from happening, spacers are installed between uprights or thick cardboard is laid between the already installed and tightly closed door leaf and the door frame. Shake the bottle thoroughly for at least one minute before filling with foam. For better adhesion of the foam to the surface of the opening and outside door frame can be slightly dampened with water. The main thing is not to overdo it, otherwise the effect will be exactly the opposite.

For reinsurance against deformation and distortion of the door frame, it is better to apply mounting foam in two stages. For the first run, the foam is applied pointwise. After allowing the foam to harden, after 1-3 hours, you can fill the remaining voids. We cut off the excess mounting foam after it has completely hardened.

Important! In the case when the gap between the opening and the door frame is too narrow, the foam spray tube can be flattened a little, this will make it more convenient, and most importantly, fill all voids with high quality.

If the gap between the doorway and the frame is large, 8-9 cm or more, then we lay the free space suitable material(wood, drywall, etc.) and only then fill it with foam.

The vertical gap should be filled with foam, starting from the bottom and gradually moving up. Thus, the foam will create a support for itself. If there are extensions, additional spacers should be installed on them to avoid deformation.

Installation of platbands and door fittings

At the final stage of the door installation, the platbands are installed. First, we cut the platband in height, then we cut the upper edge of the vertical platbands at an angle of 45 degrees. We make the same trimming at 45 degrees for the horizontal casing at both ends. For these operations we use a miter box. You can fix the platband with small nails or universal mounting glue.

Applying glue to the trim

Installing a trim on a door frame

The organization of personal space in residential premises has always been and remains an indispensable condition for a comfortable stay. And the installation of interior doors is very important. With the seeming simplicity of the device, a number of questions may arise during its installation, for which we will try to prepare the developer how to install the door himself.

Do-it-yourself installation of interior doors

The work requires certain qualifications and skills in carpentry. In addition, careful attention and careful, thoughtful execution of each operation is necessary. At the same time, installing doors with your own hands will not present any particular difficulties.

This design is not particularly complex. technical system, but there are a number of features that you need to know about and take into account in the process of work:

in accordance with the safety rules regulated by SNiP, the door must open outward. This will ensure that the premises can be quickly evacuated in case of emergency, such as a fire. It is enough to press the door handle, and it will open itself for unhindered passage;
between the lintel of the door frame and the contour of the doorway, it is necessary to provide a gap of 20 - 30 mm in order to avoid jamming of the leaf when the house moves or changes in the linear dimensions of the box associated with changes in humidity in the room. This is especially important for rooms in country house, where this indicator can vary over a wide range;
for the manufacture of a door frame, only coniferous wood should be used in the form of finished carpentry moisture profiles - up to 14 percent;
after the manufacture of the box, before installing the door leaf into it, the product must be treated with antiseptics and fire-fighting impregnation;
technological gaps between the box and the canvas should be 3 - 3.5 mm on each side.

Before installing the frame in the opening, it is necessary to check the location of the support surface of the threshold beam - it must be strictly horizontal in order to avoid warping the frame during the operation of the door.

The cost of work performed by hired personnel

In addition to the desire to cope with the installation of the door on their own, one more circumstance must be taken into account - the availability of special equipment and tools. Acquisition complete set everything you need will cost a lot of money, and the price for the installation of one door is from 1500 rubles. If the developer has to install a dozen of these products, there may be an economic justification for doing the work yourself, because the price for the tool will be covered or comparable to the amount of payment for the work. But when installing 1 - 2 doors, the costs are clearly incomparable in favor of the execution by invited specialists.

Tools and materials

Standard door installation involves the use of such a tool:

an electric drill with a shock-rotary function for drilling holes for fittings, mounting holes for dowels and others;
manual milling cutter - for making connection details;
square to control the positioning of the box in the opening and the relative position of its parts, markings;
construction plumb line - to check the verticality of the installation of the door block;
tape measure - measurement;
chisel - fitting connections;
hammer;
wooden mallet;
saw - hacksaw for wood;
pass saw - box assembly;
construction knife;
paint brush - application of protective coatings;
miter box - sawing parts at the right angles;
axe;
nail puller.

In the course of work, the performer often needs another tool to perform basic and finishing operations.

In addition to the above, for installation you will need materials:

protective and protective decorative coatings for wood;
door fittings - hinges and canopies, locks, clamps - heck;
fasteners for various purposes - for installing a door block in an opening, connecting frame parts; temporary fixation of the box before installation (slats, nails, etc.);
additional elements for finishing slopes;
platbands;
polyurethane foam professional;
beam for the box loopback, feigned and lintel.

When making a box and making tie-ins for fittings, you may need material for mounting gaskets, for which cardboard, thin fiberboard and other sheet products are used.

Dismantling the old door

Without destroying the old, you can’t make a new one, so the work begins with the dismantling of the old door block. Step-by-step instruction when doing this work it might look like this:

remove the trim on both sides of the doorway. To do this, you can use an ax and a chisel in order to lift the parts from the plane of the wall. Next, you can use a nail puller;
dismantle the facing of bevels;
remove the canvas old door;
if you need to save old box, then work must begin from the side of the loop rack. To do this, unscrew the fixing screws that fix the box in the doorway and push the box out of it. The gap between the lintel and the doorway will make this easy;
in case the box is fixed with pins or nails, you need to try to loosen the rack with a nail puller to create a gap between it and the opening and cut the fastener with a hacksaw;
sometimes it is enough to cut out the old mounting foam from the opening and saw the rod;
when there is no need to save the box, it is enough just to cut the ledge at an angle and remove part of it, after which the dismantling will proceed quickly and without incident.

Important! When disassembling the old door, do not damage the wall material in the doorway.

Do-it-yourself interior door installation

Professional installation of doors requires, before starting work, to survey the doorway for its integrity and suitability for further work. It is necessary to pay attention to the subthreshold space, if necessary, deepen it or raise the base, depending on the structure of the threshold beam of the new box.

Making a door frame

It often happens that this product is sold complete with an assembled door. Then the problem comes down to installation in the doorway. However, there are also complete products on the market, when the box is attached disassembled and, moreover, in the form of 4 pieces of the corresponding parts. They need to be properly cut, connected and assembled together.

Material selection

Before you go to a specialized store for a box blank, you need to carefully measure the doorway. It is advisable to do this after dismantling the old door, but you can quite reliably take measurements before disassembly. The main thing is to know Exact size the thickness of the wall or partition where the door is to be replaced. The acquired profile must be smaller in width than the size of the wall.

Measurements in height and width will determine the length of the profiles.

Insofar as we are talking about interior doors, the material may well be coniferous wood.

The door frame consists of 4 types of bars:

loop stand - a vertical part on which hinges are installed;
feigned rack - a vertical part into which the lock crashes, its profile is a mirror image of the hinge rack profile;
lintel - upper horizontal detail;
threshold beam - the lower horizontal part.

The depth of sampling under the door leaf should be 12 - 15 mm to ensure its snug fit around the entire perimeter of the contact. The width of the sample should correspond to the thickness of the porch. This element is standardized, and in the store you can always pick up the appropriate parts when buying.

To connect the parts of the door frame, several methods are used.

Corner connection

To implement this method of joining parts, you need a miter box.

This is a device for cutting molded products at a given angle. The part is fixed on the table with built-in clamps, the sawing angle is pre-set according to the scale. The fine-toothed saw moves along the guides, which ensures its stable position perpendicular to the table and, accordingly, to the specified cutting angle.

Such a device can be made independently from the waste of various building materials.

The cutting of parts should be preceded by careful marking using a tape measure and a joiner's square. After its completion, the parts are alternately installed in the miter box and sawn. After each cut, you need to check the markup and, if necessary, make adjustments to it.

The finished parts must be laid out on a flat surface in the form of a product, fixed with clamps and check the dimensions of the diagonals of the box. They must be equal. If it is necessary to make an adjustment, it should be done with a pass saw.

Parts must be fastened together self-tapping screws, sinking the heads into the body of the part. The diameter of the threaded hole must be equal to its internal size. Before installing the screw, it is recommended to moisten its threaded part with PVA glue for half the length.

Screws are installed on the side of each part. Their number depends on the width of the parts, but not less than 2 on each side.

Tongue and groove connection

This method is somewhat more complicated, but gives a more reliable result in terms of structural stability.

On the mating structural elements, grooves and ridges must be made. The main difficulty is the exact execution of such endings. A tight connection must be ensured with the coincidence of all structural elements. However, small deviations can be adjusted with spacers and adhesive-mounted tabs.

The parts are fastened together with screws in the same way as in the previous case.

This assembly method provides sufficient strength and stability of the structure.

Other methods of connecting the parts of the box are also used, but those proposed here, with their simplicity, are most suitable for independent execution.

Installing a box in a doorway

The main requirements for this operation:

strict verticality of the product in the opening;
the gap between the lower edge of the door and the floor is set depending on the invoice finish coat floor, if carpet is provided, the distance between the door and the floor must be at least 15 mm, for linoleum - 4 - 5;
the coincidence of the plane of the box with the plane of the wall, which will subsequently allow the trim to be correctly installed.

When the box is correctly installed in the doorway, it must be fixed in place with wooden wedges and the gap between the walls and it should be filled with foam. Installing the door frame is the most critical operation, since any inaccuracy will lead to operational difficulties.

Installation of the box with curved walls is carried out strictly according to the plumb line and level. Correction of curvature is made by fitting extensions.

Hardware installation

Before placing the box in the opening, sheds are installed on it. Inserting a niche for their placement is carried out to a depth corresponding to the thickness of the plate. If the depth is greater, you can use a cardboard lining to correct the location of the canopy. The upper canopy is installed at a distance of about 25 cm from the ceiling beam, the lower one at the same distance from the threshold beam. On heavy door panels, a third canopy is installed 50 - 55 cm from the lintel.

The corresponding fittings on the door leaf are installed after placing it in the box before installation in the opening. Before marking, gaps are established between the door and the frame and wedged. Further, the seats are made on the removed door.

The main tool is a hammer, a chisel.

When installing a lock and door handle you need to follow the appropriate instructions, which indicate how to do it correctly. In the same order, the closer is installed on the door.

Dobory

These structural details are mounted after the final stabilization of the mounting foam and the removal of its hardened excess. The main purpose of installing extensions on interior doors is to seal the gap between the frame and the wall plane, so the extensions are adjusted in place.

Before you install the door, you need to make sure that the frame is in a stable, solid position.

The last operation is the installation of platbands that close the gap between the box and the walls.

Installing interior doors is a fairly simple operation with a tool and some skills. If there are none, it is much cheaper to use the services of a master, because the price of work of 1,500 rubles per door does not seem excessive. I wish you success!

Technological progress has replaced the once cumbersome entry gates used by our ancestors with convenient, practical doors. The need to constantly move stones and other heavy objects back and forth many times during the day to block the opening and protect it from the weather disappeared with the invention of canopies.

Modern doors tend to be installed for decades. How to assemble and install them correctly - important question after all the parts are bought and laid out on the floor!

The order of work for the home master

The door is not just a plank blocking the entry hole. It is also not an archaic design. Nevertheless, after assembly and installation, it must meet a number of requirements:

Open - close without significant effort, creak and rattle;
Do not fall apart when slammed after nervous breakdowns;
Do not open on its own;
Not to be so thin, fragile that even a child will pierce it with a pen when he decides to draw on it.

We fasten the canvas to the canopies. Let's see what happened. We check the absence of distortions in the gaps. All installed design glue around the perimeter with construction tape.

We foam the free cavities between the wall and the box in several passes, first in several places (at 4-6 points of the internal gaps of the structure) we place pieces of cardboard so that the door does not jam and it can open freely.

We are waiting for complete drying, we do nothing more yet. We do not open, we do not check.

We upholster platbands along the contour of the door, hiding unaesthetic seams.

Thus, an interior door was installed with their own hands. Gained experience that can now be used to refine other doorways.

Photo of the process of installing interior doors with your own hands

Installation of interior doors - 1653 craftsmen to the site
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Installation of interior doors in Moscow from 2000 rubles / piece.

It is most convenient to order the installation of interior doors in Moscow on the website. Professional craftsmen who carry out installation, dismantling and repair of sliding, metal, as well as any other structures are presented to the attention of users. The qualifications of specialists are confirmed by documents and certificates, which are checked without fail. You can form an opinion about the quality based on feedback from other customers using the service.
Installing interior doors is a complex undertaking. The design can be installed independently, but in the absence of the necessary skills, it is better to turn to professionals. They will perform the work qualitatively and in the shortest possible time. Without fail, an agreement is concluded between the customer and the contractor, where the conditions, guarantees, terms and cost are prescribed.
Price - from 2,000 rubles apiece. On the this moment there are 1632 proposals from individuals and firms that perform these types of work. A foreman visits the place beforehand to assess the complexity and conclude a contract. The assigned tasks are completed quickly and in compliance with all building codes and requirements, which guarantees long-term operation without loss of functionality.